Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:28 AM - Re: Cracked Canopy (Jay Bannister)
2. 07:55 AM - Re: Cracked Canopy (Bryan Martin)
3. 12:50 PM - Re: Cracked CanopyCracked Canopy (Mack Kreizenbeck)
4. 05:16 PM - Re: Cracked Canopy (Jerry Latimer)
5. 07:42 PM - Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... (Matt Dralle)
6. 08:35 PM - Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... (Paul Mulwitz)
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
I did my canopy fabrication in the Summer (on purpose). Cold plastic is an
xious to crack. I drilled the pilot holes for clecoes with a new drill bit
that had about a 45 deg angle on the tip. I used that bit to drill right
through the plastic into the bow. When I drilled the pilot holes out with
a step drill bit for the washers, I got no cracking. I drilled one pilot
hole way too close to the cut-out for the latch handle. I made a note to m
yself oi not use this hole. A year later when I went to fasten the bubble
to the frame, I completely forgot that note and put a cleco in that hole.
CRACK !! I quickly stop drilled the crack, but it kept running. I stop dr
illed again and it kept running. I finally stop drilled about a half inch
beyond the end of the crack and that stopped it. In the end, I was able to
cut the crack out to install a plastic air vent; so I never attempted to r
epair the crack. I did use one or two washers between the plastic and the
bow at a couple of holes near the ends of the rear bow to insure that the s
crews didn't stress the plastic.
Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Ray <davgray@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sun, Dec 25, 2011 10:19 pm
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Cracked Canopy
This might be a good thread to pursue as it seems to happen too often.
I would like to hear from others that cracked a canopy. Details of drill t
ype and size, temperature at time of drilling, and hole-to-edge distance.
Also, from those that did not have this problem..
I used a step drill, warmed the canopy over a warm air register, let the bi
t generate a little heat from friction as it cut, kept the drill perpendicu
lar to the surface,
and did not accept the 7 mm edge distance that would have occurred on a few
of my holes if I stuck entirely with the plans.
My closest edge distance is 27 mm after a small modification. Five years p
lus without any cracks.
Gary Ray
Zenith 601XL-B, William Wynne Corvair 0.060 over, Roy's 5th bearing,
Mark's Falcon Heads, Marvel Schebler MA3-SPA Carburetor, 175 Hrs TT
From: Steve Freeman
Sent: Sunday, December 25, 2011 4:49 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Cracked Canopy
Hi Guys,
We have all heard this story beforeWhile installing the rear canop
y on my 650 I got about a 3=9D crack. I stop drilled it and I am try
ing to decide if I can live with this or not. Roughly $650 to get a new ca
nopy seems like a lot of money and I might wind up with the same thing agai
n. Honestly, I am not sure how this happened. I was being super careful a
nd I was not drilling in a location where there seemed to be any pressure.
Wellit happenedIt sucks but I have to move on.
Can any of you guys make recommendations for the best practice to repair th
e crack? I know it will never be perfect but I have heard some people have
had a lot of luck. There are no spider web cracks. Just the one, it is c
lean and like I said I stop drilled it at the end. I have found a couple o
f products on AC Spruce, in particular INSTA-WELD but it says to clamp the
parts togetherthis is not possible. Also, if I use some type of a
dhesive that will wick in to the crack, do I then use some type of epoxy to
fill the stop drill hole?
Any help is always appreciated
I hope everyone is having a great Christmas!
Steve
0235 Mounted will start wiring soon.
Moving along with fuselage..
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chr
ef="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhref
="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
I had some small cracks from my drilling. I applied some methylene chloride with
an insulin syringe. It wicked into the cracks and sealed them. I made sure to
wipe off the excess immediately. The stuff works by dissolving the edges of
the crack and fusing them together as it evaporates.
The water thin adhesive from ACS should work as well, it's probably the same ingredient.
I didn't worry about the stop holes because they are hidden by the lower
flashing. A little dab of Shoe-Goo or something similar might plug the hole.
On Dec 25, 2011, at 4:49 PM, Steve Freeman wrote:
>
> Can any of you guys make recommendations for the best practice to repair the
crack? I know it will never be perfect but I have heard some people have had
a lot of luck. There are no spider web cracks. Just the one, it is clean and
like I said I stop drilled it at the end. I have found a couple of products
on AC Spruce, in particular INSTA-WELD but it says to clamp the parts togetherthis
is not possible. Also, if I use some type of adhesive that will wick in
to the crack, do I then use some type of epoxy to fill the stop drill hole?
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus re-drive.
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Cracked CanopyCracked Canopy |
Greetings from Idaho,
Everything I did to try to patch my 605XL canopy, after breaking a chunk
out, failed. Super glue held everything together, but
the left over residue was a mess. I finally covered the affected area with a
metal strip, cut to form. Much cheaper than purchasing
a new bubble that may or may not crack. Some builders are making fiberglass
covering strips.
If the cracks are small, I'd leave the areas alone where you stop drilled -
you'll be the only one to know that they are there!
How many times have you scrutinized someone else's work?
Mack
Message 4
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Steve,
Sounds like you are making steady progress. Still plan on a trip to DVT to
see your project.
I have a crack in my HDS canopy. It is more than 3inches long. I stopped
drilled then applied a strip of "Slap Stix". Glide pilots have used it for
years. It works fine. The plane has 130 hours on it and no problem.
Here is a link to where I ordered it.
http://www.skysailing.com/pages/slapstix.htm
Jerry
Flying and having a great time.
_____
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Freeman
Sent: Sunday, December 25, 2011 2:49 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Cracked Canopy
Hi Guys,
We have all heard this story before.While installing the rear canopy on my
650 I got about a 3" crack. I stop drilled it and I am trying to decide if
I can live with this or not. Roughly $650 to get a new canopy seems like a
lot of money and I might wind up with the same thing again. Honestly, I am
not sure how this happened. I was being super careful and I was not
drilling in a location where there seemed to be any pressure. Well.it
happened.It sucks but I have to move on.
Can any of you guys make recommendations for the best practice to repair the
crack? I know it will never be perfect but I have heard some people have
had a lot of luck. There are no spider web cracks. Just the one, it is
clean and like I said I stop drilled it at the end. I have found a couple
of products on AC Spruce, in particular INSTA-WELD but it says to clamp the
parts together.this is not possible. Also, if I use some type of adhesive
that will wick in to the crack, do I then use some type of epoxy to fill the
stop drill hole?
Any help is always appreciated.
I hope everyone is having a great Christmas!
Steve
0235 Mounted will start wiring soon.
Moving along with fuselage..
Message 5
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... |
Dear Listers,
I've been flying the new 10" Dynon Skyview in the RV-6 for a few weeks now and
it seems like the airspeed is reading maybe 10mph fast. The GS always reads 10mph
or more slower than the True airspeed, no matter which way I fly with respect
to the current wind. Looking through the configuration options on the Skyview,
I'm not seeing parameters to calibrate the airspeed. If the airspeed were
*slow* compared to the GS, I could envision making adjustments to the Pitot
tube to get it in better alignment with slipstream. But *fast* is a head scratcher.
If there's no electronic configuration parameters to adjust, what do
you do? Are there Pitot line "attenuators" like for RF in coax? ;-)
Matt
-
Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 42+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Message 6
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... |
Hi Matt,
You might try fooling around with your static port. Dual static ports
would be even better.
Airspeed indicators measure the pressure difference between pitot and
static lines. If your static line is not correct then the airspeed will
be wrong.
Paul
Camas, WA
On 12/26/2011 7:39 PM, Matt Dralle wrote:
> Dear Listers,
>
> I've been flying the new 10" Dynon Skyview in the RV-6 for a few weeks now and
it seems like the airspeed is reading maybe 10mph fast. The GS always reads
10mph or more slower than the True airspeed, no matter which way I fly with respect
to the current wind. Looking through the configuration options on the
Skyview, I'm not seeing parameters to calibrate the airspeed. If the airspeed
were*slow* compared to the GS, I could envision making adjustments to the Pitot
tube to get it in better alignment with slipstream. But*fast* is a head
scratcher. If there's no electronic configuration parameters to adjust, what
do you do? Are there Pitot line "attenuators" like for RF in coax?;-)
>
> Matt
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|