Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:10 AM - Re: Cracked Canopy (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
2. 08:13 AM - Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... (Frank Roskind)
3. 10:39 AM - Re: Cracked Canopy (Peter Fox)
4. 12:11 PM - Re: Parts (Brad Rawls)
5. 09:16 PM - Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... (Matt Dralle)
6. 10:32 PM - Dynon Skyview vs. GRT HX EFIS... (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
Guys
I found the reason for all this cracking canopy phenomenon. What I found
was Zenith says to drill do a specific size (which I don't know off the t
op
of my head) but what I found was it wasn't big enough for the counter sunk
washer so when pressure is applied it exerts force around the hole thus a
crack. The fix is simple (and I have never cracked a canopy) is..... Use a
step bit to drill the canopy because it can't grab like a regular bit WILL
.
Then make the holes big enough that the counter sunk washer is loose that
way the washer will rest on the rails and not be exerting outward pressure
on the hole which WILL crack the canopy eventually.
Happy building
Jeff
In a message dated 12/25/2011 11:18:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
davgray@sbcglobal.net writes:
This might be a good thread to pursue as it seems to happen too often.
I would like to hear from others that cracked a canopy. Details of drill
type and size, temperature at time of drilling, and hole-to-edge distance.
Also, from those that did not have this problem..
I used a step drill, warmed the canopy over a warm air register, let the
bit generate a little heat from friction as it cut, kept the drill
perpendicular to the surface,
and did not accept the 7 mm edge distance that would have occurred on a
few of my holes if I stuck entirely with the plans.
My closest edge distance is 27 mm after a small modification. Five years
plus without any cracks.
Gary Ray
Zenith 601XL-B, William Wynne Corvair 0.060 over, Roy's 5th bearing,
Mark's Falcon Heads, Marvel Schebler MA3-SPA Carburetor, 175 Hrs TT
From: _Steve Freeman_ (mailto:steve.freeman@syntaxds.com)
Sent: Sunday, December 25, 2011 4:49 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Cracked Canopy
Hi Guys,
We have all heard this story beforeWhile installing the rear cano
py on my
650 I got about a 3=9D crack. I stop drilled it and I am trying to
decide
if I can live with this or not. Roughly $650 to get a new canopy seems li
ke
a lot of money and I might wind up with the same thing again. Honestly, I
am not sure how this happened. I was being super careful and I was not
drilling in a location where there seemed to be any pressure. Well
it
happenedIt sucks but I have to move on.
Can any of you guys make recommendations for the best practice to repair
the crack? I know it will never be perfect but I have heard some people
have had a lot of luck. There are no spider web cracks. Just the one, it
is
clean and like I said I stop drilled it at the end. I have found a couple
of products on AC Spruce, in particular INSTA-WELD but it says to clamp th
e
parts togetherthis is not possible. Also, if I use some type of
adhesive
that will wick in to the crack, do I then use some type of epoxy to fill
the stop drill hole?
Any help is always appreciated
I hope everyone is having a great Christmas!
Steve
0235 Mounted will start wiring soon.
Moving along with fuselage..
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... |
The issue could also be your static port getting lower pressure somehow.
> Date: Mon=2C 26 Dec 2011 19:39:50 -0800
> To: rv7-list@matronics.com=3B zenith-list@matronics.com
> From: dralle@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith-List: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration...
>
>
> Dear Listers=2C
>
> I've been flying the new 10" Dynon Skyview in the RV-6 for a few weeks no
w and it seems like the airspeed is reading maybe 10mph fast. The GS alway
s reads 10mph or more slower than the True airspeed=2C no matter which way
I fly with respect to the current wind. Looking through the configuration
options on the Skyview=2C I'm not seeing parameters to calibrate the airspe
ed. If the airspeed were *slow* compared to the GS=2C I could envision mak
ing adjustments to the Pitot tube to get it in better alignment with slipst
ream. But *fast* is a head scratcher. If there's no electronic configurat
ion parameters to adjust=2C what do you do? Are there Pitot line "attenuat
ors" like for RF in coax? =3B-)
>
> Matt
>
>
> -
> Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle
>
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
> RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
> http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
> Status: 42+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete=3B Now In Full Flyer
Mode
>
>
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===========
===========
===========
===========
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
hello builders
take a really {40-100x} close look at any hole drilled in any lexan /poly
sheet and if one used a regular or even a ultra sharp bit you should see a
dozen or so very tiny cracks that appear at the boundary area {clear to
opaque} i believe to avoid this propagating in to a crack later
you must
1. drill in steps
2 ream or melt to the proper size
3 inspect to see if the cracks are gone
4 slightly break the edges
5 make sure the fastener does not contact the sheet plastic on the inside
of the hole{ allow for the thermal and vibration stress }
take a really close look at any hole you drill in plastic sheets and what
appears to be perfect
still has the cracks
it has to be viewed with a loupe at least 40 power and they are on the
bottom only
cheers Peter
Fox
On Tue, Dec 27, 2011 at 5:08 AM, <Afterfxllc@aol.com> wrote:
> **
> Guys
>
> I found the reason for all this cracking canopy phenomenon. What I found
> was Zenith says to drill do a specific size (which I don't know off the
> top of my head) but what I found was it wasn't big enough for the counter
> sunk washer so when pressure is applied it exerts force around the hole
> thus a crack. The fix is simple (and I have never cracked a canopy) is...
..
> Use a step bit to drill the canopy because it can't grab like a regular b
it
> WILL. Then make the holes big enough that the counter sunk washer is loos
e
> that way the washer will rest on the rails and not be exerting outward
> pressure on the hole which WILL crack the canopy eventually.
>
> Happy building
> Jeff
>
> In a message dated 12/25/2011 11:18:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> davgray@sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> This might be a good thread to pursue as it seems to happen too often.
> I would like to hear from others that cracked a canopy. Details of drill
> type and size, temperature at time of drilling, and hole-to-edge distance
.
> Also, from those that did not have this problem..
> I used a step drill, warmed the canopy over a warm air register, let the
> bit generate a little heat from friction as it cut, kept the drill
> perpendicular to the surface,
> and did not accept the 7 mm edge distance that would have occurred on a
> few of my holes if I stuck entirely with the plans.
> My closest edge distance is 27 mm after a small modification. Five years
> plus without any cracks.
>
> Gary Ray
> Zenith 601XL-B, William Wynne Corvair 0.060 over, Roy's 5th bearing,
> Mark's Falcon Heads, Marvel Schebler MA3-SPA Carburetor, 175 Hrs TT
>
>
> *From:* Steve Freeman <steve.freeman@syntaxds.com>
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 25, 2011 4:49 PM
> *To:* zenith-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Zenith-List: Cracked Canopy
>
>
> Hi Guys,****
>
> ****
>
> We have all heard this story before=85While installing the rear canopy on
my
> 650 I got about a 3=94 crack. I stop drilled it and I am trying to decid
e if
> I can live with this or not. Roughly $650 to get a new canopy seems like
a
> lot of money and I might wind up with the same thing again. Honestly, I
am
> not sure how this happened. I was being super careful and I was not
> drilling in a location where there seemed to be any pressure. Well=85it
> happened=85It sucks but I have to move on.****
>
> ****
>
> Can any of you guys make recommendations for the best practice to repair
> the crack? I know it will never be perfect but I have heard some people
> have had a lot of luck. There are no spider web cracks. Just the one, i
t
> is clean and like I said I stop drilled it at the end. I have found a
> couple of products on AC Spruce, in particular INSTA-WELD but it says to
> clamp the parts together=85this is not possible. Also, if I use some typ
e of
> adhesive that will wick in to the crack, do I then use some type of epoxy
> to fill the stop drill hole?****
>
> ****
>
> Any help is always appreciated=85****
>
> ****
>
> I hope everyone is having a great Christmas!****
>
> ****
>
> Steve****
>
> 0235 Mounted will start wiring soon.****
>
> Moving along with fuselage..****
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com
>
> href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com
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href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List">http://www.matronhr
ef="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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> *
>
> *
>
> tp://www.aeroelectric.com/">www.aeroelectric.com
> / href="http://www.buildersbooks.com/">www.buildersbooks.comhttp://www.
homebuilthelp.com/">www.homebuilthelp.com
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s.com/Navigator?Zenith-Lists.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
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Message 4
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Hi. Who did the welding work on the Corvair heads and the crank work? How
long ago? Where are you located? You can reply by my direct email if you
like - Brad@ocbis.com.
Thanks - Brad
Brad Rawls
Orange County Brokerage
714-550-0159 voice
714-550-0869 fax
Brad@ocbis.com
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Afterfxllc@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 25, 2011 11:43 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Parts
I have some parts I want to get rid of for the corvair
1 set of ready to bolt on heads that have already been reworked with the
intake logs welded on I want 700.00 for them
I have 3 prop hubs for rear starter setups 100.00 each
2 10/10 crank shafts nitrided and ready to install 250.00 each
3 safety shafts 30.00 each
2 old style oil pans WW 100.00 each
1 MA3-SPA carb core 400.00 part # 10-4115
1 MA3-A carb rebuilt by Russ 650.00
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Skyview Airspeed Calibration... |
At 07:39 PM 12/26/2011 Monday, Matt Dralle wrote:
>Dear Listers,
>
>I've been flying the new 10" Dynon Skyview in the RV-6 for a few weeks now and
it seems like the airspeed is reading maybe 10mph fast. The GS always reads
10mph or more slower than the True airspeed, no matter which way I fly with respect
to the current wind. Looking through the configuration options on the Skyview,
I'm not seeing parameters to calibrate the airspeed. If the airspeed
were *slow* compared to the GS, I could envision making adjustments to the Pitot
tube to get it in better alignment with slipstream. But *fast* is a head scratcher.
If there's no electronic configuration parameters to adjust, what do
you do? Are there Pitot line "attenuators" like for RF in coax? ;-)
>
>Matt
Listers,
Thank you for all the great suggestions on resolving this airspeed issue! I took
a look at the static ports on the RV-6 today and found that they are done using
a flush head screw with a hole drilled in the center on either side of the
fuselage. They do *not* protrude from the side of the plane at all. They are
totally flush (see attached picture). Just for fun, I whipped up a couple
of quick test deals using a 3/16" washer and some electrical tape. I poked a
1/16" hole in the center of the tape and then put the washer centered over the
static ports on both sides of the fuselage (see attached pictures). Then, I
went flying on this beautiful December 27 day in California!
I didn't have time to do any real scientific multi-leg testing, but I was amazed
that the True Airspeed is now falling in a much more believable range compared
to the GPS-derived ground speed. On one cross-country leg, I had an exactly
90 degree crosswind component and the True Airspeed and GPS Ground Speed were
tracking exactly the same. Yahoo!
Obviously I need to do some additional, more scientific measurements and probably
come up with a slightly more "permanent" washer arrangement, but the early
returns are very promising! :-)
Thanks again for all the great feedback!
Matt
-
Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 42+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Message 6
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| Subject: | Dynon Skyview vs. GRT HX EFIS... |
>At 09:47 PM 12/27/2011 Tuesday, you wrote:
>I have looked at the Dynon stuff up at Arlington Air Show the past two years
>and really like the looks of them. They added autopilot and said last year
>that they were about to announce communications added to their system. A
>single 10" screen to do everything would be pretty easy to install learn to
>operate. Mostly Dynon looks best in the magazines. I guess you get used to
>any of them or they would not all still be in business.
>Pete
I have a Dynon 10" Skyview in the RV-6:
http://www.mattsrv6.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV6&project 43&category=0&log=138164&row=45
http://www.mattsrv6.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV6&project 43&category=0&log=138163&row=46
and a triple GRT HX setup in the RV-8:
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log'376&row=134
http://www.mattsrv8.com/users/display_log.php?user=MattsRV8&project=638&category=2973&log'375&row=135
I've flown the GRT HX setup about 170 hours and the Dynon Skyview system about
45 hours now.
Which do I prefer? That's a tough call. There are parts about each system that
I like a lot...
The installation and configuration of the Dynon is easier. Instructions are also
better. The network cable interconnect system that Dynon uses (I think it
is just RS485, but it works well) is also a no-brainer to install. Their display
(PFD/Engine/Map) are definitely very pretty and demo well.
The GRT is a little harder to get installed, the manual is a little sketchy in
places and there are a LOT of configuration options that can seem daunting at
first. BUT, there is power and utility in those options. If you use them to
your advantage, you can probably do more, better on the GRT compared to the Dynon.
The displays on the GRT don't have the "3D-y", "Windows-y" look to them.
BUT, I think I'm preferring that at this point. Doing a scan on the GRT looking
for something out of the ordinary is quicker and more accurate. I also like
the PFD layout and operation on the GRT better. It feels more "accurate"
and "believable" to me for some reason. I never quite "trust" what I'm seeing
on the Dynon for some reason and I don't know why. Maybe I just need more time
on the Dynon.
So, the Dynon has it for Installation and Configuation, but the GRT has it for
Operation and Presentation as far as I'm concerned. If I was building a new plane,
I think that I would probably go with the GRT. But its a close race. I
really like the Dynon system too.
I guess I'm saying if you're in the market for a full-featured EFIS system, give
GRT and Dynon both very close look before you make your selection. In my opinion,
it comes down to personal preferences in a few select areas on which way
to go. Both systems are top notch.
BTW, Dynon's autopilot add-on for the Skyview which I have in the RV-6 works well.
Its a good autopilot that does the job. The servos are the same as with
the TruTrak system. In the RV-8, I have the TruTrak Digiflight II VSGV system.
The TruTrak is a smoother, more accurate autopilot in my opinion, and I would
go that route again. But, it also costs quite a bit more than just adding
servos to the Dynon or GRT.
$.02
-
Matt "Red Dawg" Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 170+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 42+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
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