Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:13 AM - Re: Rear Canopy 650 (Scotsman)
2. 05:14 AM - Re: Rear Canopy 650 (Scotsman)
3. 05:18 AM - Re: Cracked Canopy (Scotsman)
4. 05:43 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Jay Bannister)
5. 06:13 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Paul Mulwitz)
6. 06:39 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Steve Freeman)
7. 07:02 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Larry McFarland)
8. 07:38 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Jerry)
9. 08:24 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Paul Mulwitz)
10. 09:54 AM - Re: Cracked Canopy (Randy L. Thwing)
11. 10:26 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Paul Mulwitz)
12. 10:36 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (wadejones)
13. 10:58 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Steve Freeman)
14. 11:21 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Randy L. Thwing)
15. 01:05 PM - polishing (Carlos Sa)
16. 07:01 PM - Re: polishing (PatrickW)
17. 07:03 PM - Re: polishing (Terry Phillips)
18. 07:47 PM - Re: polishing (Carlos Sa)
19. 07:54 PM - Re: Re: polishing (Carlos Sa)
20. 10:35 PM - Re: Cracked Canopy (Scotsman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Canopy 650 |
Hi Steve, sorry for the late post I only got back onto the forum recently. I have
been having exactly the same problems as you. I have done everything up to
where the home built help video leaves it and to be honest my project has sat
in the garage for a couple of months due to frustration with this element.
The insert pieces that zenith supplied for bridging the gap between the rear canopy
and the rear top fuselage skin appear to be useless/irrelevant. I have been
using cardboard sheet and tape to produce a mock up of the alu pieces that
will have to use to bridge the gap. It all seems a bit slap dash and I have managed
to cut the canopy quite short (plus scratch the canopy) which leaves little
margin between the end of the alu piece and the edge of the rear canopy.
With regards to your other thread on cracking of the canopy....yep...been there
too. Once with too much pressure of my own fault and the second time just because
the material is pathetically fragile. Some of the guys in South Africa actually
said that you should be using a blunt drill bit which I thought sounded
dodgy but then they gave me a link to an EAA video on the US site which also
recommended this. I will find the link and post it.
If you want to share you further pains and work arounds feel free to email me on
James.Roberts at standardbank.co.za
Cheers
James
--------
Cell +27 83 675 0815
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361884#361884
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Canopy 650 |
Here is the link that the guys provided me with http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1200008869001.
Cheers
James
--------
Cell +27 83 675 0815
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361885#361885
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
hi guys, I had received advice to blunt the drill bit so that it grinds as opposed
to bites into the material. Some of the local guys referred me to this US
video on the subject.
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1200008869001
I have not tried it yet but believe that it may be correct as my second crack in
the canopy occurred with almost no pressure and a brand new unused high quality
drill bit.
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on it.
Cheers
James
--------
Cell +27 83 675 0815
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361886#361886
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
James,
I used a very sharp pointed drill bit to drill pilot holes. This bit was
recommended for drilling acrylic plastic and it worked well for me. Others
have recommended a really flat point drill bit. That tells me that either
pointed or flat is OK, but not in between, ie "normal" bits. I was able t
o drill right through the plastic and into the aluminum tube, which you pro
bably couldn't do with the flat pointed bit.
Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: Scotsman <james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za>
Sent: Thu, Dec 29, 2011 7:20 am
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
o.za>
hi guys, I had received advice to blunt the drill bit so that it grinds as
opposed to bites into the material. Some of the local guys referred me to t
his
US video on the subject.
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1200008869001
I have not tried it yet but believe that it may be correct as my second cra
ck in
the canopy occurred with almost no pressure and a brand new unused high qua
lity
drill bit.
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on it.
Cheers
James
--------
Cell +27 83 675 0815
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361886#361886
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
Hi Guys,
The classic trick for drilling acrylic is to reduce the "Rake" on the
drill bits used. This means the bit cannot bite into the plastic but
rather takes either a very shallow chip or just melts through the plastic.
I hand grind my own drill points, so it is easy for me to reduce the
rake to zero on drills for acrylic. I'm not sure that is what I did.
Instead, What I tend to do is to use a very slow speed on my battery
powered drill and also I tend to use step drills for this kind of
drilling. Step drilling can be done either by using a store bought step
drill (looks like a Christmas tree) or buy using steps of drill size so
you are only taking a small bite out of the existing hole to enlarge it
a little bit.
The reduced rake trick can be simulated by running the drill backwards.
This ensures you don't take any bite at all out of the plastic but melt
your way through. It is an extreme approach, but works just fine.
Paul
Camas, WA
On 12/29/2011 5:40 AM, Jay Bannister wrote:
> James,
>
> I used a very sharp pointed drill bit to drill pilot holes. This bit
> was recommended for drilling acrylic plastic and it worked well for
> me. Others have recommended a really flat point drill bit. That
> tells me that either pointed or flat is OK, but not in between, ie
> "normal" bits. I was able to drill right through the plastic and into
> the aluminum tube, which you probably couldn't do with the flat
> pointed bit.
>
> Jay
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Scotsman <james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za>
> To: zenith-list <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thu, Dec 29, 2011 7:20 am
> Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Scotsman"<james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za <mailto:james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za>>
>
> hi guys, I had received advice to blunt the drill bit so that it grinds as
> opposed to bites into the material. Some of the local guys referred me to this
> US video on the subject.
>
> http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1200008869001
>
> I have not tried it yet but believe that it may be correct as my second crack
in
> the canopy occurred with almost no pressure and a brand new unused high quality
> drill bit.
>
> I would be interested to hear your thoughts on it.
>
> Cheers
>
>
> James
>
> --------
> Cell +27 83 675 0815
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361886#361886
>
>
> _blank">www.aeroelectric.com
> " target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
> ="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
Hi Guys,
I have seen many notes on this topic suggesting "step drills" (are we
talking about a Uni-Bit) but I have never seen a step drill small enough for
the holes required for the canopy. Can anyone provide a link to where I can
find a small hole step drill?
When my canopy cracked I don't think it had anything to do with the bit I
was using. What I "think" happened is a small piece of debris got trapped
between the glass and the rear canopy flashing which caused a pressure
point. As I drilled this caused a small lever point and the canopy cracked
at that point. I suspect this is the case because when I examined the
location a small bead of plastic (but big enough to do the job) fell from
the space between the canopy and the flashing. Until that point and at all
points after the drilling was not an issue but I will admit I am nervous
about enlarging the holes to accept the hardware.
Steve
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Mulwitz
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 7:11 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
Hi Guys,
The classic trick for drilling acrylic is to reduce the "Rake" on the drill
bits used. This means the bit cannot bite into the plastic but rather takes
either a very shallow chip or just melts through the plastic.
I hand grind my own drill points, so it is easy for me to reduce the rake to
zero on drills for acrylic. I'm not sure that is what I did. Instead, What
I tend to do is to use a very slow speed on my battery powered drill and
also I tend to use step drills for this kind of drilling. Step drilling can
be done either by using a store bought step drill (looks like a Christmas
tree) or buy using steps of drill size so you are only taking a small bite
out of the existing hole to enlarge it a little bit.
The reduced rake trick can be simulated by running the drill backwards.
This ensures you don't take any bite at all out of the plastic but melt your
way through. It is an extreme approach, but works just fine.
Paul
Camas, WA
On 12/29/2011 5:40 AM, Jay Bannister wrote:
James,
I used a very sharp pointed drill bit to drill pilot holes. This bit was
recommended for drilling acrylic plastic and it worked well for me. Others
have recommended a really flat point drill bit. That tells me that either
pointed or flat is OK, but not in between, ie "normal" bits. I was able to
drill right through the plastic and into the aluminum tube, which you
probably couldn't do with the flat pointed bit.
Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: Scotsman <mailto:james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za>
<james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za>
<zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, Dec 29, 2011 7:20 am
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
<james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za>
hi guys, I had received advice to blunt the drill bit so that it grinds as
opposed to bites into the material. Some of the local guys referred me to
this
US video on the subject.
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1200008869001
I have not tried it yet but believe that it may be correct as my second
crack in
the canopy occurred with almost no pressure and a brand new unused high
quality
drill bit.
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on it.
Cheers
James
--------
Cell +27 83 675 0815
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361886#361886
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
Paul,
You can find a small Uni-Bit drill at Harbor Freight. See link.
These work very well in canopy plastics.
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?keyword=unibit
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Freeman
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 8:37 AM
Subject: RE: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
Hi Guys,
I have seen many notes on this topic suggesting "step drills" (are we
talking about a Uni-Bit) but I have never seen a step drill small enough for
the holes required for the canopy. Can anyone provide a link to where I can
find a small hole step drill?
When my canopy cracked I don't think it had anything to do with the bit I
was using. What I "think" happened is a small piece of debris got trapped
between the glass and the rear canopy flashing which caused a pressure
point. As I drilled this caused a small lever point and the canopy cracked
at that point. I suspect this is the case because when I examined the
location a small bead of plastic (but big enough to do the job) fell from
the space between the canopy and the flashing. Until that point and at all
points after the drilling was not an issue but I will admit I am nervous
about enlarging the holes to accept the hardware.
Steve
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Mulwitz
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 7:11 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
Hi Guys,
The classic trick for drilling acrylic is to reduce the "Rake" on the drill
bits used. This means the bit cannot bite into the plastic but rather takes
either a very shallow chip or just melts through the plastic.
I hand grind my own drill points, so it is easy for me to reduce the rake to
zero on drills for acrylic. I'm not sure that is what I did. Instead, What
I tend to do is to use a very slow speed on my battery powered drill and
also I tend to use step drills for this kind of drilling. Step drilling can
be done either by using a store bought step drill (looks like a Christmas
tree) or buy using steps of drill size so you are only taking a small bite
out of the existing hole to enlarge it a little bit.
The reduced rake trick can be simulated by running the drill backwards.
This ensures you don't take any bite at all out of the plastic but melt your
way through. It is an extreme approach, but works just fine.
Paul
Camas, WA
On 12/29/2011 5:40 AM, Jay Bannister wrote:
James,
I used a very sharp pointed drill bit to drill pilot holes. This bit was
recommended for drilling acrylic plastic and it worked well for me. Others
have recommended a really flat point drill bit. That tells me that either
pointed or flat is OK, but not in between, ie "normal" bits. I was able to
drill right through the plastic and into the aluminum tube, which you
probably couldn't do with the flat pointed bit.
Jay
-----Original Message-----
From: Scotsman <mailto:james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za>
<james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za>
<zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Thu, Dec 29, 2011 7:20 am
Subject: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
<james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za>
hi guys, I had received advice to blunt the drill bit so that it grinds as
opposed to bites into the material. Some of the local guys referred me to
this
US video on the subject.
http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1200008869001
I have not tried it yet but believe that it may be correct as my second
crack in
the canopy occurred with almost no pressure and a brand new unused high
quality
drill bit.
I would be interested to hear your thoughts on it.
Cheers
James
--------
Cell +27 83 675 0815
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361886#361886
_blank">www.aeroelectric.com
" target="_blank">www.buildersbooks.com
="_blank">www.homebuilthelp.com
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arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
Steve,
I used a small regular well used dull bit (#20 I think) to drill the pilot holes
and then a Uni Bit to enlarge the holes for the mounting hardware.
Jerry
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
Steve,
The final size of the holes in the plastic canopy is around 3/8 inch.
This allows the tinnerman washers to rest on the flat flange to hold the
canopy in place. The angled (cone) shape of the tinnerman washer holds
the canopy approximately in place while allowing a little movement as
temperature changes create different expansion in the plastic and metal
parts.
I've never seen a step drill that was so large it couldn't enlarge a
hole from #40 to 3/8 inch. I tend to use ones from Harbor Freight
because I'm too cheap to buy the expensive Unibits.
Paul
Camas, WA
On 12/29/2011 6:37 AM, Steve Freeman wrote:
>
> I have seen many notes on this topic suggesting "step drills" (are we
> talking about a Uni-Bit) but I have never seen a step drill small
> enough for the holes required for the canopy. Can anyone provide a
> link to where I can find a small hole step drill?
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
do not archive
Hello Listers:
Attached is the drill geometry LP Plastics, the people who make the
windows, suggest.
The important part is the "dubbing" of the cutting lip rake angle. An
off the shelf drill has a positive cutting lip angle which will "dig"
into soft materials like brass, AL, or plexi. By dubbing the rake angle
to "0" or a slightly negative angle, the cutting edge "scrapes" the
material in front of it rather than digging in which is what cracks
plexi. Since this scraping action does not result in the drill self
feeding or pulling itsself into the material, it only cuts by you
applying pressure. Dub the cutting edge, apply pressure judiciously,
and always back up the work with a piece of wood so the drill doesn't
burst through upon penetration.
The drill still "drills" the hole by removing meteral, it doesn't burn
through it. To see many other diagrams to clarify, Google search "drill
dubbing", lots comes up.
RE Lexan: Arn't there two very good reasons Lexan isn't used for
aircraft cabin windows?
1. It scratches much easier than plexi.
2. And more importantly, it's what is used for bullet proof and shatter
proof glass, so in a crash, rescuers can't break through to get
occupants out, that's especially bad if there's a fire!
Regards,
Randy, Las Vegas
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
Hi Randy,
Mostly the reason for not using Lexan (polycarbonate) on home built
airplanes is the expense.
You are correct that it is soft and scratches easily. For that reason
it is necessary to "Hard Coat" it with polyurethane in any normal
application. This solves the scratch problem but adds cost. You can
get an idea of the cost increment if you go to your local eyeglasses
store. They charge a significant increment price for polycarbonate
lenses over standard (mostly acrylic) lenses. Even in small quantities
this is often a $50 increment.
I don't understand the issue of being "Bullet Proof". In reality it is
just as easy, maybe easier, to hack away at Lexan as Plexiglass.
Best regards,
Paul
Camas, WA
On 12/29/2011 9:48 AM, Randy L. Thwing wrote:
> RE Lexan: Arn't there two very good reasons Lexan isn't used for
> aircraft cabin windows?
> 1. It scratches much easier than plexi.
> 2. And more importantly, it's what is used for bullet proof and
> shatter proof glass, so in a crash, rescuers can't break through to
> get occupants out, that's especially bad if there's a fire!
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
A 1/4" thickness will stop a 38 caliber ,sounds bullet proof to me .
Wade
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Mulwitz
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
Hi Randy,
Mostly the reason for not using Lexan (polycarbonate) on home built
airplanes is the expense.
You are correct that it is soft and scratches easily. For that reason
it is necessary to "Hard Coat" it with polyurethane in any normal
application. This solves the scratch problem but adds cost. You can
get an idea of the cost increment if you go to your local eyeglasses
store. They charge a significant increment price for polycarbonate
lenses over standard (mostly acrylic) lenses. Even in small quantities
this is often a $50 increment.
I don't understand the issue of being "Bullet Proof". In reality it
is just as easy, maybe easier, to hack away at Lexan as Plexiglass.
Best regards,
Paul
Camas, WA
On 12/29/2011 9:48 AM, Randy L. Thwing wrote:
RE Lexan: Arn't there two very good reasons Lexan isn't used for
aircraft cabin windows?
1. It scratches much easier than plexi.
2. And more importantly, it's what is used for bullet proof and
shatter proof glass, so in a crash, rescuers can't break through to get
occupants out, that's especially bad if there's a fire!
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
12/29/11
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
Hi Paul,
Thanks for the input. I was thinking of the original pilot hole not the
finished hole size. Thanks for clarifying.
Steve
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Mulwitz
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2011 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
Steve,
The final size of the holes in the plastic canopy is around 3/8 inch. This
allows the tinnerman washers to rest on the flat flange to hold the canopy
in place. The angled (cone) shape of the tinnerman washer holds the canopy
approximately in place while allowing a little movement as temperature
changes create different expansion in the plastic and metal parts.
I've never seen a step drill that was so large it couldn't enlarge a hole
from #40 to 3/8 inch. I tend to use ones from Harbor Freight because I'm
too cheap to buy the expensive Unibits.
Paul
Camas, WA
On 12/29/2011 6:37 AM, Steve Freeman wrote:
I have seen many notes on this topic suggesting "step drills" (are we
talking about a Uni-Bit) but I have never seen a step drill small enough for
the holes required for the canopy. Can anyone provide a link to where I can
find a small hole step drill?
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
do not archive
In reality it is just as easy, maybe easier, to hack away at Lexan as
Plexiglass.
Best regards,
Paul
Camas, WA
I don't agree with that. Here's some more purely generic info.
Regards,
Randy, Las vegas
Discover the expert in you.
What Is Lexan Made Out Of?
By Neal Litherland, eHow Contributor
Lexan is a commonly used replacement for glass and even Plexiglas in a
variety of areas. Stronger and more resilient, but still providing many
benefits of glass, Lexan is used in industry, in communication, and even
signage. But the process used to make this material, as well as the
definition of what Lexan is and isn't, can sometimes get a little
complicated.
1.. Lexan
a.. Lexan is a name for a sheet of polycarbonate resin that is
generally considered to be a shatterproof material. Though still
technically a plastic, Lexan is stronger and more durable than either
traditional glass or the plastic Plexiglas, and it is used in situations
where extra survivability of the material is considered worth the extra
cost, such as "bulletproof" windows in police stations or armored
vehicles.
Process
a.. Lexan is made through a patented chemical process. By reacting
a chemical compound called Bisphenol A with carbonyl chloride (also
known as phosgene), the base resin that makes up Lexan is produced.
While sheets of this resin material can be cut into a variety of
lengths, only those which are between .03 inches (or 0.75 mm.) and .48
inches (or 12 mm.) are ever referred to as actually being Lexan.
Development
a.. Lexan was first developed in the 1950s by General Electric
Plastics. Dr. Daniel Fox was attempting to create a new, more durable
plastic to be used as a wire coating when he made the discovery in the
GE labs. This exact same breakthrough had happened independently in
Germany, where a Dr. Herman Schnell of Bayer was equally impressed by
the extreme toughness of the new resin material. Though a scramble for
patents ensued, GE Plastics became the main manufacturer and distributor
of Lexan.
Properties
a.. Though it is a great deal tougher, Lexan bears a very strong
resemblance to Plexiglas, also known as Lucite or Perspex. Lexan often
has a shiny, acrylic look though it is a great deal tougher than any
acrylic. Lexan will scratch in a manner similar to Plexiglas, however.
Throughout a variety of tests, Lexan has been shown to be nearly
shatterproof, and to even withstand bullets depending on the size of the
weapon and distance the shot was fired from. One of the other properties
of Lexan, and one which can be a major health risk, is that the resin
may leach bisphenol A. This chemical, which is used in Lexan's
manufacturing process, has been linked to cancer by several studies.
Uses
a.. Given its durability, Lexan has been used in a huge variety of
products and industries. Lexan is a favorite of the aerospace industry
for making cockpits and windscreens that are used in a variety of
aircraft. More commonplace items, such as the original Apple Ipod (which
had a white plastic body made of Lexan) also use this shatterproof
plastic. Additionally, Lexan is popular in racing, being used for both
helmets and windshields to reduce the weight that is active in the
vehicle. Also, whether or not fans of the show are aware of it, Lexan is
often used on shows such as "Myth Busters" and "Deadliest Warrior,"
where the clear, protective sheets are used to keep the hosts safe from
explosions and flying debris.
Message 15
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Hello, all
I thought I'd post some information on polishing.
I have been polishing flat sheets before actually drilling holes and, in
some instances, even before cutting the parts.
Up to a couple of months ago, I was using "Mother's", a mag polishing paste.
I was applying it with paper towels driven by an electric drill.
That worked pretty well, but I thought a "real" polishing process should
makes things go a little (hopefully a lot) quicker.
So, I invested on a polisher, similar to these (typical Chinese product):
http://www.drillspot.com/products/349756/Westward_1VUC2_Automotive_Polisher_Buffer
http://www.seaskytools.net/car-polisher/379219.html
I also got Nuvite F9 and C, one pound of each, and four wool bonnets.
All of this cost me close to CA$500.
I have thus far polished two sheets 4'x8', and am finishing the F9 phase on
a 4'x4' piece.
The F9 jar was gone half way through the 4'x4', so it was good for
approximately 72 sqft.
I believe I will be able to finish the 4'x4' and still have some C compound
left (not to mention that I dropped the jar on the floor and wasted one or
two spoonfuls of the stuff).
Clearly, I use less C than I use F9.
In terms of time required, I believe Nuvite and Mother's are on the same
ball park. I did not keep proper records, but I'd say they both take one to
two hours per sqft.
Nuvite, however, makes an incredible mess, particularly the F9 phase: it
creates a very fine dust that covers the whole room you are working in. And
black dust bunnies are all over the place when you are using a fairly new
bonnet. The mess produced by Mother's is much more "believable": the paper
towels only disintegrate if they catch a corner of the sheet or any other
obstacle left in its way, and the dust produced is negligible.
The Nuvite dust requires me to wear a dust mask, or it will irritate my
throat. And even with the mask, after 1.5 h, I stop because they bother me
(the mask AND the dust). Also, Nuvite contains petroleum distillates, so
the fumes can bother some people (my wife, for instance).
Both approaches are awfully boring.
Bottom line, if I knew then what I know now, I would have used only
Mother's: *it is clean*, and a couple of jars will be enough for a 4'x8'
sheet - less than CA$20 taxes included (15%) at the local hardware store,
no shipping charges. Did I mention it is clean?
Attached a picture of some tail parts, polished with Mother's
Happy New Year!
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Message 16
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Here's pictures of mine, just using Nuvite F9 for now. Will use the finer grades
after phase 1 is done.
http://www.zenith.aero/photo/albums/polish-and-paint
- Pat
--------
Patrick Hoyt
601XLb/Corvair
N63PZ - 99.999% done....
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361953#361953
Message 17
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Hi Carlos
'Just wondering if you tried the Chinese polishers with the Mothers. If
so, how did it work out? I notice Harbor Freight offers a similar
polisher for $50 right now.
Also, Googling "Mother's mag polishing paste" I find "Mothers 5101 Mag &
Aluminum Polish Paste" in 5 and 10 oz containers. Is that the product
you used? And, if so, are you referring to the 5 or the 10 oz container?
Your parts look great to me.
Terry
Carlos Sa wrote:
>
>
> I thought I'd post some information on polishing.
>
> Bottom line, if I knew then what I know now, I would have used only
> Mother's: _it is clean_, and a couple of jars will be enough for a
> 4'x8' sheet - less than CA$20 taxes included (15%) at the local
> hardware store, no shipping charges. Did I mention it is clean?
>
> Attached a picture of some tail parts, polished with Mother's
>
>
> Happy New Year!
>
>
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, plans
--
Terry Phillips
ttp444~at~gmail.com
Corvallis MT
ZU-601XLB/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps
are done;
Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
Message 18
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Hello, Terry
I never used a wool bonnet with Mother's - it might work, I just never
tried. I am afraid it will create black dust bunnies - not something I am
not very fond of.
I use a 5 " circular pad with velcro hooks on it, then a piece of foam,
about 1" thick, and then the best quality paper towel I can find, cut in
5"x5" squares.
I put the paste on the paper, and work on areas of about 1 to 1.5 square
feet at a time.
When the aluminum is clean from the paste and black residue, I stop, throw
the paper away and get a new one.
And, contrary to the bonnet technique, I lay the paper/foam/disk attachment
flat on against the metal, not at an angle.
It is as fast (or slow) as Nuvite.
Attached a picture of work in progress (tail parts).
The product you found seems to be "it", although the jar I have says the
product # is 35100.
It could be because (1) it is packaged with French and English labels (for
Canada) and / or (2) they changed the product code - I haven't bought one
in many months - the last time was probably summer 2010.
And I was referring to the 5 oz jar; it sells for CA$8 (it used to be CA$7)
at Canadian Tire's Aeronautics dept.
*http://tinyurl.com/6p25g2w*
Regards
Carlos
On 29 December 2011 22:00, Terry Phillips <ttp444@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi Carlos
>
> 'Just wondering if you tried the Chinese polishers with the Mothers. If
> so, how did it work out? I notice Harbor Freight offers a similar polisher
> for $50 right now.
>
> Also, Googling "Mother's mag polishing paste" I find "Mothers 5101 Mag &
> Aluminum Polish Paste" in 5 and 10 oz containers. Is that the product you
> used? And, if so, are you referring to the 5 or the 10 oz container?
>
> Your parts look great to me.
>
> Terry
>
Message 19
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Pat, I have looked closely at your pictures - the Zodie looks awesome!
I liked the results you achieved, so much so that it was part of my
motivation for trying Nuvite.
But I think can achieve the same level of "shinyness" with Mother's - with
less mess. Or die trying... ;-)
Seriously, *if* I am not happy with Mother's results, I can apply the step
after C (is it "S"?), and still avoid F9 and C.
BTW, grade C is much less messy than F9, and I assume S (?) is pretty clean.
Cheers
Carlos
On 29 December 2011 21:58, PatrickW <pwhoyt@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Here's pictures of mine, just using Nuvite F9 for now. Will use the finer
> grades after phase 1 is done.
>
> http://www.zenith.aero/photo/albums/polish-and-paint
>
> - Pat
>
> --------
> Patrick Hoyt
> 601XLb/Corvair
> N63PZ - 99.999% done....
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
How have you guys dealt with riveting on the canopy? The sides of the front and
rear canopy would need to be riveted but after my past experiences cracking
the canopy I am really reluctant to do anything.
Now having learnt from the thread I will use the recommended drill bit and techniques
but I am still worried that the pressure generated by the rivet on the
canopy will cause the canopy to crack.
Any recommendations and practical experience would be gratefully received.
Cheers
James
--------
Cell +27 83 675 0815
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361971#361971
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