Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:15 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Steve Freeman)
2. 08:21 AM - Corvair engine (Bill Clapp)
3. 08:25 AM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Paul Mulwitz)
4. 12:22 PM - Re: Re: Cracked Canopy (Bryan Martin)
5. 01:04 PM - Re: Cracked Canopy (Thruster87)
6. 08:58 PM - Re: Cracked Canopy (Thruster87)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
HI Paul,
I appreciate what you are saying but unless some type of rivnut is epoxied
to the inside of the canopy it would be virtually impossible to install a
screw (even loosely) in the rear canopy. While it would not be impossible
it would be incredibly difficult (and I can't think of a way right now) to
get a tool to hold a nut while the screw were tightened.
I am thinking of lining the inside 20mm edge of the rear canopy with the
Slap Stix product Jerry Latimer recommended after pre-drilling for a rivet.
Then I will carefully pull the rivets by hand.
Anyone else have any ideas?
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Mulwitz
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
Hi Steve,
I used the same screws and tinnerman washers at all locations where a
fastener goes through the plastic canopy. I'm afraid riveting through the
plastic will surely cause cracks.
Again I must claim lack of clear memory of exactly what the screws
attached to. The way the screws work they have a tinnerman washer on
the outside and a solid piece of metal (either aluminum or steel) on the
inside with the plastic canopy captured in the middle. I think the self
tapping screws easily go into either steel or aluminum when you have a
proper sized pilot hole in the metal.
I'm not sure, but I think some of the screws go into the thin wall square
tubing that makes up the basic structure of the canopy base.
Paul
On 12/30/2011 7:27 AM, Steve Freeman wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve
> --> Freeman"<steve.freeman@syntaxds.com>
>
> << made similar sized holes in the aluminum and plastic and seated
> the tinnerman washer on the outside of the aluminum.>>
>
> And what did you use for a fastener in locations like this?
>
> For instance - on the 650 B - there is a side flashing then the canopy
> bubble. If tinnerman washer is used in this location, what is used to
> fasten the screw? I was planning on riveting in these locations with
> my hand riveter so I could control the force of the pull a little better.
>
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
> Mulwitz
> Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 5:04 AM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz<psm@att.net>
>
> I hate to admit I just don't remember the answer to that question. I
> looked at a photo I have on my computer and it seems like I made
> similar sized holes in the aluminum and plastic and seated the
> tinnerman washer on the outside of the aluminum. On the other hand, I
just can't remember.
>
> I'll take a look next time I am at the airport.
>
> Paul
>
> On 12/30/2011 3:01 AM, Scotsman wrote:
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by:
>> --> "Scotsman"<james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za>
>>
>> Thanks Paul, and in the places where you have to go first through an
> aluminum piece and then into the canopy did you just make a large size
> hole in both the canopy material and the aluminum skin with the washer
> seated over the top of the two?
>> J
>>
>> --------
>> Cell +27 83 675 0815
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361980#361980
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Have a running Corvair engine for sale. Front bearing and 601/750 Fwf parts. 229-834-8996
Bill Clapp
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
Hi Steve,
Yes, the rear end of the canopy is a different issue from the portion
that meets the metal mechanism and flashing.
In the rear, I just installed some rubber seal material. I also trimmed
the plastic so it fits the metal curve of the rear fuselage top. I
don't think this makes a completely perfect seal, but I don't think that
matters either.
At first I planned to stick some rubber sealing material between the
canopy and the fuselage side edges. After seeing another XL at the Sun
n Fun auction last year I decided to try just leaving the 1/4 inch or so
open to the air. All of this seems to work just fine. There might be a
little air noise in flight at 120 kts, but I use noise cancelling (Bose)
headphones anyway. I would guess the actual airflow through the canopy
seal gaps is very small - perhaps similar to the flow into the cabin
from the cabin heater and two air vents.
Paul
On 12/31/2011 7:10 AM, Steve Freeman wrote:
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve Freeman"<steve.freeman@syntaxds.com>
>
> HI Paul,
>
> I appreciate what you are saying but unless some type of rivnut is epoxied
> to the inside of the canopy it would be virtually impossible to install a
> screw (even loosely) in the rear canopy. While it would not be impossible
> it would be incredibly difficult (and I can't think of a way right now) to
> get a tool to hold a nut while the screw were tightened.
>
> I am thinking of lining the inside 20mm edge of the rear canopy with the
> Slap Stix product Jerry Latimer recommended after pre-drilling for a rivet.
> Then I will carefully pull the rivets by hand.
>
> Anyone else have any ideas?
>
> Steve
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Mulwitz
> Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 9:28 AM
> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
>
> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz<psm@att.net>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I used the same screws and tinnerman washers at all locations where a
> fastener goes through the plastic canopy. I'm afraid riveting through the
> plastic will surely cause cracks.
>
> Again I must claim lack of clear memory of exactly what the screws
> attached to. The way the screws work they have a tinnerman washer on
> the outside and a solid piece of metal (either aluminum or steel) on the
> inside with the plastic canopy captured in the middle. I think the self
> tapping screws easily go into either steel or aluminum when you have a
> proper sized pilot hole in the metal.
>
> I'm not sure, but I think some of the screws go into the thin wall square
> tubing that makes up the basic structure of the canopy base.
>
> Paul
>
> On 12/30/2011 7:27 AM, Steve Freeman wrote:
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: "Steve
>> --> Freeman"<steve.freeman@syntaxds.com>
>>
>> << made similar sized holes in the aluminum and plastic and seated
>> the tinnerman washer on the outside of the aluminum.>>
>>
>> And what did you use for a fastener in locations like this?
>>
>> For instance - on the 650 B - there is a side flashing then the canopy
>> bubble. If tinnerman washer is used in this location, what is used to
>> fasten the screw? I was planning on riveting in these locations with
>> my hand riveter so I could control the force of the pull a little better.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
>> Mulwitz
>> Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 5:04 AM
>> To: zenith-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Re: Cracked Canopy
>>
>> --> Zenith-List message posted by: Paul Mulwitz<psm@att.net>
>>
>> I hate to admit I just don't remember the answer to that question. I
>> looked at a photo I have on my computer and it seems like I made
>> similar sized holes in the aluminum and plastic and seated the
>> tinnerman washer on the outside of the aluminum. On the other hand, I
> just can't remember.
>> I'll take a look next time I am at the airport.
>>
>> Paul
>>
>> On 12/30/2011 3:01 AM, Scotsman wrote:
>>> --> Zenith-List message posted by:
>>> --> "Scotsman"<james.Roberts@standardbank.co.za>
>>>
>>> Thanks Paul, and in the places where you have to go first through an
>> aluminum piece and then into the canopy did you just make a large size
>> hole in both the canopy material and the aluminum skin with the washer
>> seated over the top of the two?
>>> J
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Cell +27 83 675 0815
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=361980#361980
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
I'm not familiar with the two-piece canopy but I would not recommend installing
rivets into acrylic. I would think you would want to use a flashing strip to
attach the rear canopy. Then glue the acrylic to the flashing. The flashing would
be riveted to the fuselage.
3M double sided molding tape also works very well for attaching flashing to acrylic.
The vinyl foam tape seals the gap and holds the pieces together. I used
this tape on the front flashing on my 601XL, I've had no problem with it. I used
it to attach the fog lights to the bumper of my old ford pickup and they never
came loose in the 4 years I owned it.
On Dec 31, 2011, at 10:10 AM, Steve Freeman wrote:
>
> HI Paul,
>
> I appreciate what you are saying but unless some type of rivnut is epoxied
> to the inside of the canopy it would be virtually impossible to install a
> screw (even loosely) in the rear canopy. While it would not be impossible
> it would be incredibly difficult (and I can't think of a way right now) to
> get a tool to hold a nut while the screw were tightened.
>
> I am thinking of lining the inside 20mm edge of the rear canopy with the
> Slap Stix product Jerry Latimer recommended after pre-drilling for a rivet.
> Then I will carefully pull the rivets by hand.
>
> Anyone else have any ideas?
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus re-drive.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
I ended up using large headed [1/2 long x 1/8Dia] self taping screws on the
top and bottom steel RHS tubes.On the hinge cover panel I put in anchor nuts .I
also cut the sides of the canopy less, so that they extend past the fuselage
[by 1/8"] for weather proofing,and a very soft rubber seal under the steel
RHS tubes so that the canopy locks down with only a little downward pressure.I
also drilled a 3/8" hole on each side [on the inside] so you can see the locking
mechanism [spring tang] engage properly and positively [put a bit of red paint
on the tangs]. All holes drilled either 1/4" or bigger thru the plastic canopy
using a step drill with NO cracking so far. Cheers Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362141#362141
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Cracked Canopy |
Thruster87 wrote:
> I ended up using large headed [1/2 long x 1/8Dia] self taping screws on the
top and bottom steel RHS tubes.On the hinge cover panel I put in anchor nuts
.I also cut the sides of the canopy less, so that they extend past the fuselage
[by 1/8"] for weather proofing,and a very soft rubber seal under the steel
RHS tubes so that the canopy locks down with only a little downward pressure.I
also drilled a 3/8" hole on each side [on the inside] so you can see the locking
mechanism [spring tang] engage properly and positively [put a bit of red
paint on the tangs]. All holes drilled either 1/4" or bigger thru the plastic
canopy [Todds canopy]using a step drill with NO cracking so far. Cheers Alan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=362169#362169
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/image002_458.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/canopy_465.jpg
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|