Zenith-List Digest Archive

Fri 05/25/12


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:20 AM - Re: Rivet Removal (Carlos Sa)
     2. 03:13 PM - Re: Rivet Removal ()
     3. 04:42 PM - Re: Rivet Removal (Carlos Sa)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:20:06 AM PST US
    From: Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Rivet Removal
    Hello, Paul I think I understand your description, but a picture would be great if you could post one. I presume you need to have access to both sides of the part, right? Thanks for sharing Carlos CH601-HD, plans On 24 May 2012 23:10, <paulrod36@msn.com> wrote: > ** > Those of you who drill out rivet heads, have them pop off, and easily push > out the stems with no problem, just hit the delete button and don't waste > time reading this. > > If, on the other hand, you drill the head slightly off center, have > to chisel it off, and then expend your entire vocabulary of swear words on > those *&^%$ rivets that you can't push out, here's something I discovered. > > Particularly on an unsupported flange, using a mandrel or punch and a > hammer doesn't help since the flange moves. Some others are in tight > spaces, where you can't get a pair of pliers in , or the pliers slip off. > Or sometimes, the &^%$#@ rivet just won't cooperate. > > Maybe somebody already thought of this but it's new to me, and it works: > In a fit if desperation I drilled a 1/8" hole in the top cup of an old pair > of Cleco pliers. Then I took a 1-1/2 inch long piece of aluminum (1/4" rod > will do, but I used an old aluminum rain gutter nail), put it in the drill > press, and filed about 7/16th of it down to 1/8" thick. I then reversed > it, and filed down the other end to 1/8", leaving a little less than 1/8 > in the middle unfiled, to use as a collar. With the collar end inserted > into the Cleco pliers cup. I put the tool over the rivet stem, lined up the > bottom jaw around the offending rivet, and squeezed. The rivet came out > with one squeeze. I'm next going to make one out of steel, for next time. > Maybe make another in A-5 size if necessary. Using the poor man's lathe, it > took about 30 minutes. > > Paul R > > > * > > * > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:13:31 PM PST US
    From: <paulrod36@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: Rivet Removal
    It pains me to admit, I can build a plane but can't figure how to attach a photo. Yes, you slip the pliers over the edge of of the sheet metal. The rivet remover is basically a 1/8" cylinder, with a stop to keep it from sliding through the hole you drill in the Cleco pliers. Paul R ----- Original Message ----- From: Carlos Sa<mailto:carlossa52@gmail.com> To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com> Sent: Friday, May 25, 2012 8:18 AM Subject: Re: Zenith-List: Rivet Removal Hello, Paul I think I understand your description, but a picture would be great if you could post one. I presume you need to have access to both sides of the part, right? Thanks for sharing Carlos CH601-HD, plans On 24 May 2012 23:10, <paulrod36@msn.com<mailto:paulrod36@msn.com>> wrote: Those of you who drill out rivet heads, have them pop off, and easily push out the stems with no problem, just hit the delete button and don't waste time reading this. If, on the other hand, you drill the head slightly off center, have to chisel it off, and then expend your entire vocabulary of swear words on those *&^%$ rivets that you can't push out, here's something I discovered. Particularly on an unsupported flange, using a mandrel or punch and a hammer doesn't help since the flange moves. Some others are in tight spaces, where you can't get a pair of pliers in , or the pliers slip off. Or sometimes, the &^%$#@ rivet just won't cooperate. Maybe somebody already thought of this but it's new to me, and it works: In a fit if desperation I drilled a 1/8" hole in the top cup of an old pair of Cleco pliers. Then I took a 1-1/2 inch long piece of aluminum (1/4" rod will do, but I used an old aluminum rain gutter nail), put it in the drill press, and filed about 7/16th of it down to 1/8" thick. I then reversed it, and filed down the other end to 1/8", leaving a little less than 1/8 in the middle unfiled, to use as a collar. With the collar end inserted into the Cleco pliers cup. I put the tool over the rivet stem, lined up the bottom jaw around the offending rivet, and squeezed. The rivet came out with one squeeze. I'm next going to make one out of steel, for next time. Maybe make another in A-5 size if necessary. Using the poor man's lathe, it took about 30 minutes. Paul R arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List tp://forums.matronics.com _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?Zenith-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi on>


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:42:45 PM PST US
    From: Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Rivet Removal
    It's ok, Paul - I know a bunch of people that can attach a photo, but only one or two of them can build an airplane... Carlos On 25 May 2012 18:12, <paulrod36@msn.com> wrote: > ** > It pains me to admit, I can build a plane but can't figure how to attach > a photo. Yes, you slip the pliers over the edge of of the sheet metal. The > rivet remover is basically a 1/8" cylinder, with a stop to keep it from > sliding through the hole you drill in the Cleco pliers. > > Paul R >




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