Zenith-List Digest Archive

Thu 11/28/13


Total Messages Posted: 7



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:39 AM - Re: wiring the control stick (FLYaDIVE)
     2. 07:32 AM - Re: wiring the control stick (Bryan Martin)
     3. 07:34 AM - Re: wiring the control stick (pavel569)
     4. 08:20 AM - Re: wiring the control stick (FLYaDIVE)
     5. 08:26 AM - Fw: Stick Wiring (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
     6. 08:31 AM - Re: wiring the control stick (Keith Ashcraft)
     7. 10:14 AM - Re: wiring the control stick ()
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:39:59 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: wiring the control stick
    From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
    Carlos: Here is the way I would do it - Always remember two things: 1 - The K.I.S.S. M.E. principal and 2 - How, you will make future repairs,if you need them. The procedure: a> Solder and Heat Shrink the wires. b> Do not use a Cable - No room for repairs and difficult to run. c> Make TWISTED PAIRS - This will keep like wires together AND eliminate noise pick-up. d> Remember some Twisted Pairs will not be pairs, but three or four wires for a function (exp. TRIM - It has Up and DOWN wires). e> Make the wires LONG. You can always cut them short, that is easy. But cutting them long... I have not figured out how to do that as yet. (I'm still working on my Aluminum and Stainless Steel Magnets) f> Keeping with KEEPING the wires LONG - The second reason in doing so is for REPAIRS. It is know as a Service Loop. Very aggravating if you find you are one inch short and have to do splicing in an area that is difficult or impossible to reach. g> VERY important - Take Pictures of the Grip - As to What Button does what - At least label them A _ B_ C_ D, etc. AND - - - Label the wire pairs to match. h> The use of a DB15 connector is up to you. A DB15 will give you 15 pins to work with, a DB25 will give you 25 pins to work with. ALWAYS ADD an EXTRA GROUND WIRE. And make sure it goes to a solid electrical ground. NOT just the airframe. OK - There ya go - Any questions? Please ask. I was an electrical engineer in my past life... Now I'm retired and work as an A&P. *Barry* *=93Chop=92d Liver=94* NJ has taken the next step. They are identifying cars with bad drivers. You will notice some cars with a large red "R" on them. That is to identify the drivers as "R"estricted. Restricted is just a polite way of saying Bad Drivers. Be cautious around them. On Wed, Nov 27, 2013 at 9:18 PM, Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com> wrote: > Hello, > > > What have you used for wiring the control stick? > > At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other tha n > PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a > Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the > buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one > more button.) > > I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of > single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor > cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.) > > I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: > http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_orig inal.jpg) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and us e the > longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires > are too thin... > > > Interested in not reinventing the wheel... > > > Thanks for your comments > > Carlos > CH601-HD, plans > > * > =========== m> ldersbooks.com> .com> com> om/contribution> =========== tronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List> =========== =========== > * > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:32:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: wiring the control stick
    From: Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>
    I have the Y stick with a pair of infinity grips, each grip has a PTT switch, a 4-way trim switch and a flap switch. I have a relay panel to allow both sticks to control the trim and flap circuits. The relay panel is mounted inside the rudder cable tunnel. The cables from the grips were long enough to attach to the screw terminals on the relay panel with out splices. I used Molex style connectors from there to connect the radio controls from the sticks. All of the wires from the stick grips are signal wires that carry no significant current, so 22-24 gauge wire would work just fine. 16 gauge wire is way bigger than needed for this application as far as current capacity is concerned but 16 gauge might better tolerate the flexing of the wire around the control stick joints. On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:18 PM, Carlos Sa wrote: > > What have you used for wiring the control stick? > > At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.) > > I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.) > > I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin... > > -- Bryan Martin N61BM, CH 601 XL, RAM Subaru, Stratus re-drive.


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:34:47 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: wiring the control stick
    From: "pavel569" <pm569@HOTMAIL.COM>
    Hi Carlos, I'm not done yet with mine but I have the same Tosten stick grips as you and I'm planning to use a 10 pin microphone connector. It is round and it fits perfectly inside the control tube. I'll have both sticks removable, so they'll be cut in the bottom half and secured by pin. The connectors will be either solid mounted in each half of the tube or bottom solid and upper half will hang on wires and be fit inside the upper half of the tube after connecting with bottom plug. I'm using 22 AWG single wires. [quote="carlossa52(at)gmail.com"] Hello, What have you used for wiring the control stick? At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ (http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/) ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.) I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.) I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg (http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg) ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin... Interested in not reinventing the wheel... Thanks for your comments Carlos CH601-HD, plans > [b] -------- Pavel CA Zodiac 601XL Stratus Subaru EA-81 Tail, flaps, ailerons, wings, fuselage, canopy done ... &quot;do not archive&quot; Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=414390#414390


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:20:34 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: wiring the control stick
    From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive@gmail.com>
    Brian: Since you are using Molex connectors mit I strongly suggest you put a light coating of Dielectric Grease inside the connector before you attach them AND secure them with a thin Ty-Wrap end to end. This will keep the poor coating of the pins from oxidizing and keep moisture out, as well as never having to worry about a loose connection. Been there - Done that - Many a time. *Barry* *=93Chop=92d Liver=94* NJ has taken the next step. They are identifying cars with bad drivers. You will notice some cars with a large red "R" on them. That is to identify the drivers as "R"estricted. Restricted is just a polite way of saying Bad Drivers. Be cautious around them. On Thu, Nov 28, 2013 at 10:31 AM, Bryan Martin <bryanmmartin@comcast.net>wr ote: > > > I have the Y stick with a pair of infinity grips, each grip has a PTT > switch, a 4-way trim switch and a flap switch. I have a relay panel to > allow both sticks to control the trim and flap circuits. The relay panel is > mounted inside the rudder cable tunnel. The cables from the grips were lo ng > enough to attach to the screw terminals on the relay panel with out > splices. I used Molex style connectors from there to connect the radio > controls from the sticks. > All of the wires from the stick grips are signal wires that carry no > significant current, so 22-24 gauge wire would work just fine. 16 gauge > wire is way bigger than needed for this application as far as current > capacity is concerned but 16 gauge might better tolerate the flexing of t he > wire around the control stick joints. > > On Nov 27, 2013, at 9:18 PM, Carlos Sa wrote: > > > > > What have you used for wiring the control stick? > > > > At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other > than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to > use a Tosten grip ( > http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes > wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but > better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.) > > > > I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of > single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor > cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.) > > > > I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: > http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_orig inal.jpg) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and us e the > longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires > are too thin... > > > > > > > -- > Bryan Martin > N61BM, CH 601 XL, > RAM Subaru, Stratus re-drive. > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:26:34 AM PST US
    From: BobbyPaulk@comcast.net
    Subject: Fwd: Stick Wiring
    ----- Original Message ----- Subject: Stick Wiring Carlos I used a military type stick grip with lots of options. Most of my heavy amp users ( trim and flap motors ) go thru relays so 22 gauge wire was plenty heavy. One thing I wired in simply because it was there came to be my most used switches. Summer flying in Florida can be pretty bumpy particularly in the afternoon with thunderbumpers building up. I wired a switch that flips the Icom A-200 radio frequencies of the 10 most used stored frequencies. Another switch flips the radio stand-by frequency to the use freq. Try flying left handed in rough air and tuning the radio while watching for traffic. I also have the PTT, a hat switch for roll and pitch trim, and flaps on the stick. It is very handy ( pun intended ). Bobby


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:31:10 AM PST US
    From: Keith Ashcraft <ch701builder@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: wiring the control stick
    Carlos, I checked, and the web page actually shows 22 AWG. That sounds better than 16 guage. As others had stated, 16 is HUGE for and airplane, (except for your main power and starter cables) A 15A AC breaker circuit in your house is typical 14 AWG, with 20A circuits being 12 AWG. (depending on the length of runs, and how big of an IR drop you expect)(course there is a difference between AC and DC for calculating cable size) Also, connectors, 9-pin D or 15-pin D, or other ???? will be alot easier to wire using the 22AWG size wire. For ideas of what to use the switches for, I can't help, (I'm not that far yet) Use some the existing guys ideas and branch out from there. Besides missiles, radars, and etc, maybe a flip-flop control for your radio, (if it is equipped as such) Happy Thanksgiving to all Keith CH701 - scratch mostly N 38.9940 W 105.1305 Alt. 9,100' ________________________________ From: Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 7:18 PM Subject: Zenith-List: wiring the control stick Hello, What have you used for wiring the control stick? At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/ ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.) I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.) I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_original.jpg ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin... Interested in not reinventing the wheel... Thanks for your comments Carlos CH601-HD, plans


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:14:34 AM PST US
    From: <paulrod36@msn.com>
    Subject: Re: wiring the control stick
    Yeah, man, get it on! MY fighter-style control stick used to be from a video game, came from e-bay, cost less than $20, and has a four-way hat switch for trim, a PTT, a flaps down, a flaps up, and a leftover real neat trigger, for either the guns or the missiles. Once you strip it out of the base, you get a stick handle with all those micro switches, whose cumulative value exceeds cost. It works, and it's cheap, so what's not to like? Paul R ----- Original Message ----- From: Steve Freeman (SDS)<mailto:steve.freeman@syntaxds.com> To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 8:57 PM Subject: RE: Zenith-List: wiring the control stick Trim, Flaps, PPT on my stick. Woohooo! I also have a switch on stick that cuts out the flaps so I can't hit them by accident. Steve Freeman From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@ma tronics.com> [mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jay Bannister Sent: Wednesday, November 27, 2013 7:38 PM To: zenith-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: Zenith-List: wiring the control stick Carlos, Are you planning to control your radar, missiles and machine guns from that stick ? (;>) Seriously, why do you need anything more that a PTT button on the stick ? Jay -----Original Message----- From: Carlos Sa <carlossa52@gmail.com<mailto:carlossa52@gmail.com>> To: zenith-list <zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>> Sent: Wed, Nov 27, 2013 8:23 pm Subject: Zenith-List: wiring the control stick Hello, What have you used for wiring the control stick? At this time I still don't know what buttons I will have on it (other than PTT), but I would like to do the wiring once. Period. I am going to use a Tosten grip ( http://www.tostenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/<http://www.tos tenmanufacturing.com/catalog/aircraft-grips/> ) which comes wired with 10 wires 16 AWG. (I probably won't use all of the buttons, but better have too many than wish I had bought a grip with one more button.) I am interested on the wiring used (multi-conductor cable? a bunch of single conductors? type, source?) and the connector. (The multi-conductor cables I found on the 'net are sold in spools, the smallest 100' long.) I saw today a cable with D-sub 15 connectors ( like this: http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor_606_orig inal.jpg<http://images.pcworld.com/howto/graphics/193829-belkin_pcmonitor _606_original.jpg> ) that I could cut and attach the shorter length to the grip and use the longer piece to connect to the panel. Problem is (is it?) that the wires are too thin... Interested in not reinventing the wheel... Thanks for your comments Carlos CH601-HD, plans ic.com">www.aeroelectric.com<http://www.aeroelectric.com/>.buildersbooks. com">www.buildersbooks.com<http://www.buildersbooks.com/>help.com">www.ho mebuilthelp.com<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/>tore.com">www.mypilotstore. com<http://www.mypilotstore.com/>com">www.mrrace.com<http://www.mrrace.co m/>bution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com /contribution>tor?Zenith-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith- List<http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List>tp://forums.matronics .com www.aeroelectric.comwww.buildersbooks.comwww.homebuilthelp.comwww.mypilot store.comwww.mrrace.comhttp://www.matronics.com/contributionhttp://www.ma tronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-Listhttp://forums.matronics.com www.aeroelectric.com<http://www.aeroelectric.com/> www.buildersbooks.com<http://www.buildersbooks.com/> www.homebuilthelp.com<http://www.homebuilthelp.com/> www.mypilotstore.com<http://www.mypilotstore.com/> http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi on> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith-List<http://www.matronics.com/N avigator?Zenith-List>




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