Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:46 AM - Re: Question to list (Jay Bannister)
2. 08:19 AM - Re: Question to list (Dingfelder)
3. 11:02 AM - Re: Question to list ()
Message 1
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Question to list |
Hey Steve, You have a right to be concerned. This one can be booger.
I messed mine up, big time. I thought I had everything lined up and drille
d for those bolts. But when I got everything hooked up and tried it out, i
t was obviously wrong. I had to re-set everything and drill new holes. I
had the old style actuator with the microswitches. They somehow limited t
he flap travel called for and no adjustment of the switches would work. I
actually had to design (a real geometry problem) and fabricate an offset ex
tension to the control arm to make everything work right.
My only suggestion would be to leave drilling for those bolts to the very l
ast. Wait until you have everything hooked up and can test the action. Th
en drill through only the first part of the tube with a #40 drill and cleco
(A3). Check the action. If it is OK, drill the tubes all the way. If no
t, you can re-adjust and do it again. Access for drilling and installing t
he bolts and nuts is a bitch, so think it through before proceeding.
Good luck -- Jay
Message 2
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Question to list |
Steve,
I have the older style flap motor, and
also had geometry issues to achieve as much travel as possible. I ended
up with 24 degrees, and I'm glad I have all that. It's been very useful
with my short field. To achieve this, I had to cut a clearance slot in
crossmember 65B5-2 in your picture. My initial positioning was done by
drilling 1/8 inch holes in the back side, and using A4 rivits, left side
only. This allows testing without much committment. I felt that Clecos
would allow too much movement to trust. The right side needs only to
match the left, and can be done secondarily. Achieving that little bit
of flap twist pressure against the up stop is critical, and the down
position is just a matter of getting all you can geometrically. Final
drilling for bolts is best done last, by removing the assembly and
re-riviting on the bench. I drilled mine vertically as in your picture
to get best access to the bolts.
Also, if things don't end up just perfect, as mine didn't,
the nylon plate in the end of the flap can be slightly repositioned or
replaced as a way to final adjust without the issues of adjusting at the
torque tube inside.
Lynn Dingfelder
601XLb 160
hours
Corry, PA
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Freeman (SDS)
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 12:52 AM
Subject: Zenith-List: Question to list
Hi List,
I am getting ready to install my flaps. I have been dreading this
because it is one of those things that I fear is really easy to screw up
and I am wondering if any of you can offer any advice for how you
drilled the torque tube after getting everything lined up where it
belongs.
I believe I can figure out how to get the flap in to the right
position and secured. But what I am scared of is actually drilling the
Torque Tubes and the Flap Control Arm that fits over the Torque Tubes.
Any advice for how any of you did this would be really appreciated.
How did you drill for this location???
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Sa
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 6:42 PM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Zenith-List: today's work
Finished installation of the Hendricks (canopy) latch
More pics here: http://www.zenith.aero/profile/CarlosSa
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Message 3
INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Subject: | Re: Question to list |
Hi Steve-- I did the whole thing somewhat differently. but it seems
to work. For openers, I bought a 12V linear motor from Surplus Parts,
for about $70 or so. It had a 4 inch throw, and a 110 pound push, with
internal micro switches. Just for grins, I mounted the flaps with
clecos, and figured out where I wanted the mtor to be. I mounted it
behind the seat top crosspiece, and put the transverse (torque) tube
in, along with the flap actuator arms, pins in the holes, etc,
everything except the drive arm. I then worked out with a protractor,
compass, straight edges and Sharpies, on the table, what it would take
for a 4-inch throw to rotate the flaps 40 degrees. Once I figured that
out, I fabricated the drive arm to the proper length, (allowing for the
pivot point to be at the center of the pipe's interior diameter)and
reassembled everything in its proper place. Then, using MASKING TAPE to
hold everything together, I checked that full extension would drive the
left flap very close to 40 degrees. (Don't make perfect the enemy of
good.. As Chris says, it's a garden tractor, not a Space Shuttle) Once
happy with the drive, I rolled the right flap down to match the left,
and then, after putting match marks on the masking tape, separated the
torque tube from the arms with a razor blade. That gave me the distance
to overlap the torque tube, and lined up how the arms would be
oriented. Then I drilled the arms in place over the tube for an an-3
bolt. Last thing was to repeat the process on the drive arm. Actually,
once you have made the proper index marks, you can take it all apart,
and drill with a drill press on the bench.
Paul R
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Freeman (SDS)<mailto:steve.freeman@syntaxds.com>
To: zenith-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, December 23, 2013 11:52 PM
Subject: Zenith-List: Question to list
Hi List,
I am getting ready to install my flaps. I have been dreading this
because it is one of those things that I fear is really easy to screw up
and I am wondering if any of you can offer any advice for how you
drilled the torque tube after getting everything lined up where it
belongs.
I believe I can figure out how to get the flap in to the right
position and secured. But what I am scared of is actually drilling the
Torque Tubes and the Flap Control Arm that fits over the Torque Tubes.
Any advice for how any of you did this would be really appreciated.
How did you drill for this location???
From: owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Sa
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 6:42 PM
To: zenith-list@matronics.com
Subject: Zenith-List: today's work
Finished installation of the Hendricks (canopy) latch
More pics here:
http://www.zenith.aero/profile/CarlosSa<http://www.zenith.aero/profile/Ca
rlosSa>
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|