Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:33 AM - Engine mount bolts (Ianrat)
2. 07:32 AM - Re: Engine mount bolts (Jaybannist@cs.com)
3. 07:46 AM - Re: Trim tab play (ashontz)
4. 08:46 AM - Re: Engine mount bolts (LarryMcFarland)
5. 11:00 AM - Re: Trim tab play (cookwithgas)
6. 11:15 AM - Re: Trim tab play (ashontz)
7. 11:46 AM - Re: Engine mount bolts (T. Graziano)
8. 07:45 PM - Re: Trim tab play (cookwithgas)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Engine mount bolts |
Just about to fit the engine mount to the fire wall. What type of bolts are being
used (AN or Grade 8 ).
And are they using Castle nuts or Nylon lock nuts.
Thank you.
Ianrat
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182666#182666
Message 2
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| Subject: | Engine mount bolts |
Ianrat,
I used AN6 bolts with MS21045-6 (AN363-6) nuts. Those nuts are medium heat self-locking.
Jay in Dallas
"Ianrat" <ianrat@powerup.com.au> wrote:
>
>Just about to fit the engine mount to the fire wall. What type of bolts are being
used (AN or Grade 8 ).
>And are they using Castle nuts or Nylon lock nuts.
>
>
>Thank you.
>
>
>Ianrat
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182666#182666
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Trim tab play |
Scott, just curious, do you ahve the hinged or hingeless ailerons?
cookwithgas wrote:
> Rob:
>
> My tabs have a little wiggle in them and it is not noticeable in flight. I don't
remember having much play in any of the holes, but when you put it all together
and add up all the little play in each moving part (including the hinge)
it all adds up to a little wiggle. There's a good lesson or three in this that
I tell everyone building -
> 1. Drill a test hole in a scrap part and try it first,
> 2. Cut all panels a little large and test fit first (for plans builders) and
> 3. Do a test bend on the brake on a scrap piece before making the final bend
on a large part.
>
> One note about the trim tab since I was flying yesterday and noticed this again.
It is hard to trim out for level flight with a quick touch of the button.
It is just that sensitive and maybe it moves too fast. If there were a way
to slow it down I'd probably try it. I use the standard RAC servo called out
on the plans.
>
> My elevator tab is the large version that I re-made after seeing one at Sun-n
Fun.
> First one: http://www.cooknwithgas.com/3_23_03_Trimtab.jpg
> Secone try: http://www.cooknwithgas.com/5_8_05_Trim.jpg
>
> It works well and I wouldn't recommend flying without the elevator trim. I don't
use the aileron trim but I haven't flown without someone in the right seat
so we will see.
>
> Scott Laughlin
> www.cooknwithgas.com
> 601XL/Corvair
> finished & flying (58 hours)
--------
Andy Shontz
do not archive
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182697#182697
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount bolts |
Ianrat,
AN bolts should always be used and not Grade 8. Castle nuts AN310 or
Nyloc nuts depend on whether engine
heat is going to be a factor. Nylocs are only good to 250-degrees F.
If its an air cooled engine the engine castle nut is recommended.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Ianrat wrote:
>
> Just about to fit the engine mount to the fire wall. What type of bolts are being
used (AN or Grade 8 ).
> And are they using Castle nuts or Nylon lock nuts.
>
>
> Thank you.
>
>
> Ianrat
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Trim tab play |
Andy:
I have the stock, hingless ailerons. Piano hinges were not even thought of when
I completed my wings. I'm not sure why they are so popular - You don't get
all the gawks and head scratching at a fly-in if you you have piano hinges on
your ailerons.
I find the yoke easy to move in flight even though pitch is more sensitive. Now
if I can just figure out how to make my rudder control lighter in flight.
I don't need much rudder input when turning but for cross-wind landing it would
be nice if it weren't so hard to turn the rudder. I'm going to take a serious
look at it the next time I go out to the hangar.
Scott Laughlin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182748#182748
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Trim tab play |
How much travel do you have at the rudder pedals. Is there enough left that you
could just use more of the travel in the pedals with a wider rudder horn for
a little more leverage via the spare travel left in the pedals?
As far as switching to hingeless ailerons using the hinged aileron configuration,
do you think that's doable by just riveting in a 100mm wide piece of .016 to
act as the hinge I already have installed on my ailerons, or do you think it
would just be better to make a new set of hingeless ailerons? The hinge on the
hingeless aileron is just the .016 skin, correct? I'm thinking maybe just using
the hinged aileron with a skin in between the skins in the aileron grabbing
3 rivets on the top of the aileron would be sufficient. How many rivets does
it catch on the wing, just the rivets along the rear spar?
cookwithgas wrote:
> Andy:
>
> I have the stock, hingless ailerons. Piano hinges were not even thought of when
I completed my wings. I'm not sure why they are so popular - You don't get
all the gawks and head scratching at a fly-in if you you have piano hinges on
your ailerons.
>
> I find the yoke easy to move in flight even though pitch is more sensitive.
Now if I can just figure out how to make my rudder control lighter in flight.
>
> I don't need much rudder input when turning but for cross-wind landing it would
be nice if it weren't so hard to turn the rudder. I'm going to take a serious
look at it the next time I go out to the hangar.
>
> Scott Laughlin
--------
Andy Shontz
do not archive
CH601XL - Corvair
www.mykitlog.com/ashontz
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182754#182754
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount bolts |
Just my $ .02
My Jab FWF came with cad plated steel self-locking AN ???(not Nylock) type
nuts. I used these nuts vice the "nylock type" ones supplied by Zenith. I
don't have the number in front of me, but you can probably get it from the
Jab USA website for the Zodiac FWF kit. In my opinion, I would not
recommend castle nuts with cotter keys to lock these nuts as I believe you
should keep them torqued or risk fatigue/fretting, leading to possible bolt
failure.. Part of my annual Inspection, and every time my fwd skin is
removed, is to check the torque. I use 300 in-lbs.
Tony Graziano
601/Jab3300; 374 hrs; N493TG
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryMcFarland" <larry@macsmachine.com>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 10:46 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Engine mount bolts
> <larry@macsmachine.com>
>
> Ianrat,
> AN bolts should always be used and not Grade 8. Castle nuts AN310 or
> Nyloc nuts depend on whether engine
> heat is going to be a factor. Nylocs are only good to 250-degrees F. If
> its an air cooled engine the engine castle nut is recommended.
>
> Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
>
> Ianrat wrote:
>>
>> Just about to fit the engine mount to the fire wall. What type of bolts
>> are being used (AN or Grade 8 ). And are they using Castle nuts or Nylon
>> lock nuts.
>>
>>
>> Thank you.
>>
>>
>> Ianrat
>>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Trim tab play |
Andy:
The hinge is the .016" skin on the aileron, correct. I would just re-make the
ailerons. You are a pro at building parts now anyway right?
Scott.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182842#182842
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