Today's Message Index:
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1. 12:00 AM - Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? (TxDave)
2. 04:32 AM - Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? (DaveG601XL)
3. 04:37 AM - Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? (Ianrat)
4. 05:58 AM - Rear top skin (Ianrat)
5. 06:35 AM - Re: Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? (Bryan Martin)
6. 06:42 AM - Re: Rear top skin (Bryan Martin)
7. 07:21 AM - Re: Problem Solving Ideas (kkinney)
8. 08:32 AM - Re: Rear top skin (Paul Mulwitz)
9. 10:38 AM - Re: Rear top skin (Afterfxllc@aol.com)
10. 10:42 AM - Re: Rear top skin (DaveG601XL)
11. 10:51 AM - Forward Canopy Rubber Seal (DaveG601XL)
12. 11:40 AM - Re: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal (Paul Mulwitz)
13. 12:43 PM - Re: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal (Gig Giacona)
14. 01:09 PM - Re: Re: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal (Bryan Martin)
15. 03:30 PM - Question (gpjann1@netzero.com)
16. 06:13 PM - FUEL DELIVERY PROBLEM (GLJSOJ1)
17. 06:48 PM - Re: Question (Jimbo)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? |
Bryan,
Thanks for posting the link to B and C. The diagrams on their Web site are very
helpful and informative.
Dave Clay
Temple, TX
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190043#190043
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| Subject: | Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? |
If you have not already, get on board the Aeroelectric List that is also part of
the Martonics forum family. It has been invaluable to me and my electrical
education. It is moderated by Bob Nuckhols, a well known industry expert. I
know that questions like yours have been covered there before and are probably
available in its archives.
Good luck,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, working on final assembly.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190059#190059
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| Subject: | Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? |
What is the best flasher unit to use (Head unit at the wing tip or in the cockpit)
Thank you
Ianrat [Question]
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190060#190060
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Has any one got any suggestions regarding the fitting of the top rear skin.
How do you stop it puckering between the rivets at the at the lower front section
were it meets the longeron. I started in the middle and worked both ways as
it is listed in the plans but have a few little puckers.
Thank you
Ianrat
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190071#190071
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| Subject: | Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? |
I had to replace one of my strobe power supplies once. I can get to
mine through the access panel in the seat bottom. In the wing tip, you
would either have to remove a bunch of rivets to get at it or attach
the wingtip panel with screws in the first place. Other than that, it
doesn't make a lot of difference where you mount them.
>
> What is the best flasher unit to use (Head unit at the wing tip or
> in the cockpit)
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rear top skin |
I used a wooden block to work the metal into that compound curve and
then doubled the number of rivets on that section. It turned out
pretty nice.
>
> Has any one got any suggestions regarding the fitting of the top
> rear skin.
>
> How do you stop it puckering between the rivets at the at the lower
> front section were it meets the longeron. I started in the middle
> and worked both ways as it is listed in the plans but have a few
> little puckers.
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Problem Solving Ideas |
That's a good idea, I like it. Although I don't have a lathe or lathe experience,
I wonder if it would work in reverse?
For example, drilling out rivets. Most often it's simple except when the mandrel
is broken off higher than normal. Now when you try to remove it, the bit bounces
off the mandrel and uglifies the hole.
How hard would it be to make a bushing that fits over an A4/A5 rivet head? If
you got fancy, could put both on one bushing by using the other end.
Just a thought,
kk
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190088#190088
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| Subject: | Re: Rear top skin |
Hi lanrat,
It sounds like you are talking about the forward section of the rear
top skin. The only way to get it to lay reasonably flat is to tuck
the forward ends under the side skin.
I am currently fighting with the rear section of the top skin. I had
it fitting nicely, but when I installed the horizontal stabilizer the
last bulkhead moved forward about an inch at the top. Today I get to
cut and drill the replacement. The tricky part is to get the cutouts
for the horizontal stabilizer in the right places before drilling the
rivet holes.
Have fun,
Paul
XL getting close
At 05:57 AM 6/27/2008, you wrote:
>Has any one got any suggestions regarding the fitting of the top rear skin.
>
>How do you stop it puckering between the rivets at the at the lower
>front section were it meets the longeron. I started in the middle
>and worked both ways as it is listed in the plans but have a few
>little puckers.
>
>Thank you
>
>Ianrat
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Rear top skin |
The .016 is going to give you nothing but trouble from dents as people get
in and out to making it look good. I took my .016 on the first plane and made
it out of .032 and it looks great but on the second plane I put .025 for the
entire turtle deck and it looks good but not as good as the .032.
On the first plane I just took off the .016 and match drilled it to .032 and
put it right back on and it fit perfectly. I decided to use .025 because the
rear skin gets dented from people pushing down on the bulkhead to move the
plane around.
Jeff
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Rear top skin |
Ianrat,
When I got done putting mine on with only moderate success, my Tech Counselor said
I should have tried to use cargo straps to help pull it down better.
Good luck,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, working on final assembly.
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190116#190116
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| Subject: | Forward Canopy Rubber Seal |
I have my canopy in place and have an issue with aesthetics. Where the seal contacts
the painted forward skin, it is leaving a black residue line. I would
like to lay down something similar to black tape or trim to 'hide' the residue
line. Any suggestions on what to put here? All the black sticky-back foam seal
that I have seen is too thick for the fit of my seal. There is no way I would
use black electrical tape, but something along that thickness is what I am
thinking about.
Thanks for any suggestions,
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL, working on final assembly.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190117#190117
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| Subject: | Re: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal |
Hi Dave,
How about paint?
Paul
do not archive
At 10:51 AM 6/27/2008, you wrote:
>I have my canopy in place and have an issue with aesthetics. Where
>the seal contacts the painted forward skin, it is leaving a black
>residue line. I would like to lay down something similar to black
>tape or trim to 'hide' the residue line. Any suggestions on what to
>put here? All the black sticky-back foam seal that I have seen is
>too thick for the fit of my seal. There is no way I would use black
>electrical tape, but something along that thickness is what I am
>thinking about.
>
>Thanks for any suggestions,
>
>--------
>David Gallagher
>601 XL, working on final assembly.
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal |
What I'm planning to do is put some sort of matte black finish on the forward skin
that covered by the canopy. (What we would call a dash in a car.) This will
extend out to the area covered by the rubber seal. The primary reason for this
is to reduce glare.
DaveG601XL wrote:
> I have my canopy in place and have an issue with aesthetics. Where the seal
contacts the painted forward skin, it is leaving a black residue line. I would
like to lay down something similar to black tape or trim to 'hide' the residue
line. Any suggestions on what to put here? All the black sticky-back foam
seal that I have seen is too thick for the fit of my seal. There is no way I
would use black electrical tape, but something along that thickness is what I
am thinking about.
>
> Thanks for any suggestions,
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190144#190144
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal |
That's also what I did, flat black paint on the dash.
> >
>
> What I'm planning to do is put some sort of matte black finish on
> the forward skin that covered by the canopy. (What we would call a
> dash in a car.) This will extend out to the area covered by the
> rubber seal. The primary reason for this is to reduce glare.
>
>
> DaveG601XL wrote:
>> I have my canopy in place and have an issue with aesthetics. Where
>> the seal contacts the painted forward skin, it is leaving a black
>> residue line. I would like to lay down something similar to black
>> tape or trim to 'hide' the residue line. Any suggestions on what
>> to put here? All the black sticky-back foam seal that I have seen
>> is too thick for the fit of my seal. There is no way I would use
>> black electrical tape, but something along that thickness is what I
>> am thinking about.
>>
>> Thanks for any suggestions,
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 15
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Is anyone using aviation oil in Corvair?
If so, would appreciate any info on type oil, weight, and fuel.
Thanks, GPJ
My email address is gpjann1@netzero.com
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| Subject: | FUEL DELIVERY PROBLEM |
Hi all
I had my O-200 running early in the spring and have now got the baffles done and
I have since fire sleeved the fuel lines firewall forward. Now I'm not getting
any fuel to the pumps which are located on the engine side of the firewall.
I'm thinking that the fire sleeve clamps are crushing the fuel lines. Also
how do I get the clamps off the fire sleeves?
Thanks for the help
--------
601XL N676L reserved
ALMOST DONE
CHESAPEAKE VA
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Bad idea in an automotive conversion. Clearances are smaller than in a "Lyconinental".
15W-40 "Heavy Duty" oils such as Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella T are the way
to go. Fuel type really doen't matter, as long as you avoid full-synthetic oils
with 100LL.
Jim
"gpjann1@netzero.com" <gpjann1@netzero.net> wrote: Is anyone using aviation oil
in Corvair?
If so, would appreciate any info on type oil, weight, and fuel.
Thanks, GPJ
My email address is gpjann1@netzero.com
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