---------------------------------------------------------- Zenith601-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 06/27/08: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:00 AM - Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? (TxDave) 2. 04:32 AM - Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? (DaveG601XL) 3. 04:37 AM - Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? (Ianrat) 4. 05:58 AM - Rear top skin (Ianrat) 5. 06:35 AM - Re: Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? (Bryan Martin) 6. 06:42 AM - Re: Rear top skin (Bryan Martin) 7. 07:21 AM - Re: Problem Solving Ideas (kkinney) 8. 08:32 AM - Re: Rear top skin (Paul Mulwitz) 9. 10:38 AM - Re: Rear top skin (Afterfxllc@aol.com) 10. 10:42 AM - Re: Rear top skin (DaveG601XL) 11. 10:51 AM - Forward Canopy Rubber Seal (DaveG601XL) 12. 11:40 AM - Re: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal (Paul Mulwitz) 13. 12:43 PM - Re: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal (Gig Giacona) 14. 01:09 PM - Re: Re: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal (Bryan Martin) 15. 03:30 PM - Question (gpjann1@netzero.com) 16. 06:13 PM - FUEL DELIVERY PROBLEM (GLJSOJ1) 17. 06:48 PM - Re: Question (Jimbo) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:00:54 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? From: "TxDave" Bryan, Thanks for posting the link to B and C. The diagrams on their Web site are very helpful and informative. Dave Clay Temple, TX Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190043#190043 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:32:14 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? From: "DaveG601XL" If you have not already, get on board the Aeroelectric List that is also part of the Martonics forum family. It has been invaluable to me and my electrical education. It is moderated by Bob Nuckhols, a well known industry expert. I know that questions like yours have been covered there before and are probably available in its archives. Good luck, -------- David Gallagher 601 XL, working on final assembly. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190059#190059 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:37:24 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? From: "Ianrat" What is the best flasher unit to use (Head unit at the wing tip or in the cockpit) Thank you Ianrat [Question] Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190060#190060 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:58:21 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Rear top skin From: "Ianrat" Has any one got any suggestions regarding the fitting of the top rear skin. How do you stop it puckering between the rivets at the at the lower front section were it meets the longeron. I started in the middle and worked both ways as it is listed in the plans but have a few little puckers. Thank you Ianrat Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190071#190071 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:35:39 AM PST US From: Bryan Martin Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Re: nav/strobe wiring...shielded or not? I had to replace one of my strobe power supplies once. I can get to mine through the access panel in the seat bottom. In the wing tip, you would either have to remove a bunch of rivets to get at it or attach the wingtip panel with screws in the first place. Other than that, it doesn't make a lot of difference where you mount them. > > What is the best flasher unit to use (Head unit at the wing tip or > in the cockpit) > -- Bryan Martin N61BM, CH 601 XL, RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive. do not archive. ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:42:42 AM PST US From: Bryan Martin Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Rear top skin I used a wooden block to work the metal into that compound curve and then doubled the number of rivets on that section. It turned out pretty nice. > > Has any one got any suggestions regarding the fitting of the top > rear skin. > > How do you stop it puckering between the rivets at the at the lower > front section were it meets the longeron. I started in the middle > and worked both ways as it is listed in the plans but have a few > little puckers. > -- Bryan Martin N61BM, CH 601 XL, RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive. do not archive. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:21:47 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Problem Solving Ideas From: "kkinney" That's a good idea, I like it. Although I don't have a lathe or lathe experience, I wonder if it would work in reverse? For example, drilling out rivets. Most often it's simple except when the mandrel is broken off higher than normal. Now when you try to remove it, the bit bounces off the mandrel and uglifies the hole. How hard would it be to make a bushing that fits over an A4/A5 rivet head? If you got fancy, could put both on one bushing by using the other end. Just a thought, kk Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190088#190088 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:32:59 AM PST US From: Paul Mulwitz Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Rear top skin Hi lanrat, It sounds like you are talking about the forward section of the rear top skin. The only way to get it to lay reasonably flat is to tuck the forward ends under the side skin. I am currently fighting with the rear section of the top skin. I had it fitting nicely, but when I installed the horizontal stabilizer the last bulkhead moved forward about an inch at the top. Today I get to cut and drill the replacement. The tricky part is to get the cutouts for the horizontal stabilizer in the right places before drilling the rivet holes. Have fun, Paul XL getting close At 05:57 AM 6/27/2008, you wrote: >Has any one got any suggestions regarding the fitting of the top rear skin. > >How do you stop it puckering between the rivets at the at the lower >front section were it meets the longeron. I started in the middle >and worked both ways as it is listed in the plans but have a few >little puckers. > >Thank you > >Ianrat > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 10:38:59 AM PST US From: Afterfxllc@aol.com Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Rear top skin The .016 is going to give you nothing but trouble from dents as people get in and out to making it look good. I took my .016 on the first plane and made it out of .032 and it looks great but on the second plane I put .025 for the entire turtle deck and it looks good but not as good as the .032. On the first plane I just took off the .016 and match drilled it to .032 and put it right back on and it fit perfectly. I decided to use .025 because the rear skin gets dented from people pushing down on the bulkhead to move the plane around. Jeff **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007) ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:42:37 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Rear top skin From: "DaveG601XL" Ianrat, When I got done putting mine on with only moderate success, my Tech Counselor said I should have tried to use cargo straps to help pull it down better. Good luck, -------- David Gallagher 601 XL, working on final assembly. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190116#190116 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:51:50 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal From: "DaveG601XL" I have my canopy in place and have an issue with aesthetics. Where the seal contacts the painted forward skin, it is leaving a black residue line. I would like to lay down something similar to black tape or trim to 'hide' the residue line. Any suggestions on what to put here? All the black sticky-back foam seal that I have seen is too thick for the fit of my seal. There is no way I would use black electrical tape, but something along that thickness is what I am thinking about. Thanks for any suggestions, -------- David Gallagher 601 XL, working on final assembly. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190117#190117 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:40:15 AM PST US From: Paul Mulwitz Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal Hi Dave, How about paint? Paul do not archive At 10:51 AM 6/27/2008, you wrote: >I have my canopy in place and have an issue with aesthetics. Where >the seal contacts the painted forward skin, it is leaving a black >residue line. I would like to lay down something similar to black >tape or trim to 'hide' the residue line. Any suggestions on what to >put here? All the black sticky-back foam seal that I have seen is >too thick for the fit of my seal. There is no way I would use black >electrical tape, but something along that thickness is what I am >thinking about. > >Thanks for any suggestions, > >-------- >David Gallagher >601 XL, working on final assembly. > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:43:41 PM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal From: "Gig Giacona" What I'm planning to do is put some sort of matte black finish on the forward skin that covered by the canopy. (What we would call a dash in a car.) This will extend out to the area covered by the rubber seal. The primary reason for this is to reduce glare. DaveG601XL wrote: > I have my canopy in place and have an issue with aesthetics. Where the seal contacts the painted forward skin, it is leaving a black residue line. I would like to lay down something similar to black tape or trim to 'hide' the residue line. Any suggestions on what to put here? All the black sticky-back foam seal that I have seen is too thick for the fit of my seal. There is no way I would use black electrical tape, but something along that thickness is what I am thinking about. > > Thanks for any suggestions, -------- W.R. "Gig" Giacona 601XL Under Construction See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190144#190144 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:09:16 PM PST US From: Bryan Martin Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Re: Forward Canopy Rubber Seal That's also what I did, flat black paint on the dash. > > > > What I'm planning to do is put some sort of matte black finish on > the forward skin that covered by the canopy. (What we would call a > dash in a car.) This will extend out to the area covered by the > rubber seal. The primary reason for this is to reduce glare. > > > DaveG601XL wrote: >> I have my canopy in place and have an issue with aesthetics. Where >> the seal contacts the painted forward skin, it is leaving a black >> residue line. I would like to lay down something similar to black >> tape or trim to 'hide' the residue line. Any suggestions on what >> to put here? All the black sticky-back foam seal that I have seen >> is too thick for the fit of my seal. There is no way I would use >> black electrical tape, but something along that thickness is what I >> am thinking about. >> >> Thanks for any suggestions, > -- Bryan Martin N61BM, CH 601 XL, RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive. do not archive. ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:30:21 PM PST US From: "gpjann1@netzero.com" Subject: Zenith601-List: Question Is anyone using aviation oil in Corvair? If so, would appreciate any info on type oil, weight, and fuel. Thanks, GPJ My email address is gpjann1@netzero.com ____________________________________________________________ Sweepstakes!!! Enter for your chance to WIN a summer spa getaway! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/JKFkuJkEP74QYXpDMnUaaKPJa duW3ZIxHHcxN081XYMuLz2oc3NrVD/ ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 06:13:32 PM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: FUEL DELIVERY PROBLEM From: "GLJSOJ1" Hi all I had my O-200 running early in the spring and have now got the baffles done and I have since fire sleeved the fuel lines firewall forward. Now I'm not getting any fuel to the pumps which are located on the engine side of the firewall. I'm thinking that the fire sleeve clamps are crushing the fuel lines. Also how do I get the clamps off the fire sleeves? Thanks for the help -------- 601XL N676L reserved ALMOST DONE CHESAPEAKE VA Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190179#190179 ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 06:48:40 PM PST US From: Jimbo Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Question Bad idea in an automotive conversion. Clearances are smaller than in a "Lyconinental". 15W-40 "Heavy Duty" oils such as Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella T are the way to go. Fuel type really doen't matter, as long as you avoid full-synthetic oils with 100LL. Jim "gpjann1@netzero.com" wrote: Is anyone using aviation oil in Corvair? If so, would appreciate any info on type oil, weight, and fuel. Thanks, GPJ My email address is gpjann1@netzero.com ____________________________________________________________ Sweepstakes!!! 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