Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:05 AM - Re: I did it again! (Scott Thatcher)
2. 06:53 AM - Re: I did it again!/NicoPress tips (Bill Naumuk)
3. 09:33 AM - Filler (AZFlyer)
4. 11:01 AM - Re: Filler (Bill Naumuk)
5. 03:51 PM - Corvair question (gpjann1@netzero.com)
6. 05:37 PM - Re: 601XL O-200 Prop (Jay Maynard)
7. 05:54 PM - Re: 601XL O-200 Prop (Floyd)
8. 08:31 PM - Rust removal from Core Engine (LHusky@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: I did it again! |
That is too funny Bill! First I thought about it for a second and then
burst into laughter. Know why?
Scott Thatcher, Palm Beach Gardens, FL
601XL with Corvair, Registered as E-LSA
N601EL, http://placestofly.com, EAA203
<<snip>>
<<I'm finish rigging the control cables prior to riveting the aft
section of the fuse, so I cut two long ones for the rudders and two
shorter ones for the elevator. I attach the elevator cables.
<< Fill in the blanks.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: I did it again!/NicoPress tips |
Scott-
It took your mind off the fact that you just bought a left hand prop for
your 'Vair.
There's actually an upside to my latest faux pas beyond providing a
little humor for my fellow sufferers. I've set so many NicoPress using the
$15 ACS device that looks like a flaring tool I'm getting pretty good at it.
(Along with carpal tunnel).
Here's the scoop (Some stuff courtesy of Tony Bingelis)-
1. Wrap the area of cable you want to cut with electrical tape, lay the
cable on a chunk of steel or the back of your vise and give it a good smack
with a cold chisel. Absolutely, positively the best way of getting a clean
cut.
2. Once you have the cable threaded around the thimble and adjuster, put
a crimp in each side of the NicoPress using a large (8" or better) set of
sidecutters. Keeps the snake under control.
3. When you can see about 1mm of the edge of the NicoPress exposed in
the ACS setter, clamp it down. Then do the same for the opposite side.
Finally, center the NicoPress in the tool and clamp one in the middle.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Thatcher" <s_thatcher@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 7:04 AM
Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: I did it again!
> <s_thatcher@bellsouth.net>
>
> That is too funny Bill! First I thought about it for a second and then
> burst into laughter. Know why?
>
> Scott Thatcher, Palm Beach Gardens, FL
> 601XL with Corvair, Registered as E-LSA
> N601EL, http://placestofly.com, EAA203
>
> <<snip>>
> <<I'm finish rigging the control cables prior to riveting the aft
> section of the fuse, so I cut two long ones for the rudders and two
> shorter ones for the elevator. I attach the elevator cables.
> << Fill in the blanks.
>
>
>
Message 3
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List,
The subject of filler has been beat to death, but I had to add my 2cents.
First, I totally agree with those who said "don't fill the rivets"... I've seen
some beautiful finished 601's and unfilled rivets don't detract at all. You're
not building a Reno racer here.
There are 2 places where I felt the need to use some type of filler.
1. After receiving my 2nd set of fiberglass Stab. tips (the first was miserable)
warped, twisted, contorted...unusable! After heat gun on 2nd set, I felt
they were usable, but too short. (I felt they should extend to at least back
end of the elevator). Hence, my first use of filler. I extended them using an
old RC airplane mix of Epoxy and Microballoons. Built up the end and sanded
to shape. Remember, Epoxy will stick to almost anything, Resin does not.
2. Second use of filler was those D--- wing tip fiberglass pieces of S---. Tried
a product from ACS, "SuperFil"... works great! Very light, easy to apply, easy
to sand, takes primer great. Sticks like iron to the fiberglass.
I'm told it sticks well to Aluminum also, but I wanted to keep it simple, in case
access to strobe, or landing lights was required. Again, I first heat gunned
them close to shape, then gooped on superfil, several layers, then sanded and
primed.
I was told by another builder, to use plain old silicon in any gaps, as it will
take primer and paint well... but I haven't tried that one yet.
Am attempting to attach a couple pics... lets see it that works.
Mike
do not archive
--------
Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
601 XL, 3300, Dynon
Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190571#190571
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_3529_120.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_9570_168.jpg
http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_9605_137.jpg
Message 4
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Mike-
Hail, fellow sufferer!
You just want to kick the builders who actually got fiberglass parts
that fit. They're all smug like, "What's the big deal- I had no trouble?" I,
too wasted a month getting my second set of outboard POSs to fit.
Please do us all a favor if you have any of the SuperFil left. Rivet a
couple of pieces of scrap aluminum together and cover the seam. Let the
stuff set up for a couple of days and then flex the hell out of it to see if
it will crack and come off. In the meantime, I'm going to shoot an e-mail to
ACS.
By the way, I agree as far as filling rivets is concerned. Like sticking
a rag in a barn door to keep the draft out.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "AZFlyer" <millrML@AOL.com>
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 12:33 PM
Subject: Zenith601-List: Filler
>
> List,
>
> The subject of filler has been beat to death, but I had to add my 2cents.
>
> First, I totally agree with those who said "don't fill the rivets"...
> I've seen some beautiful finished 601's and unfilled rivets don't detract
> at all. You're not building a Reno racer here.
>
> There are 2 places where I felt the need to use some type of filler.
>
> 1. After receiving my 2nd set of fiberglass Stab. tips (the first was
> miserable) warped, twisted, contorted...unusable! After heat gun on 2nd
> set, I felt they were usable, but too short. (I felt they should extend
> to at least back end of the elevator). Hence, my first use of filler. I
> extended them using an old RC airplane mix of Epoxy and Microballoons.
> Built up the end and sanded to shape. Remember, Epoxy will stick to
> almost anything, Resin does not.
>
> 2. Second use of filler was those D--- wing tip fiberglass pieces of S---.
> Tried a product from ACS, "SuperFil"... works great! Very light, easy to
> apply, easy to sand, takes primer great. Sticks like iron to the
> fiberglass.
> I'm told it sticks well to Aluminum also, but I wanted to keep it simple,
> in case access to strobe, or landing lights was required. Again, I first
> heat gunned them close to shape, then gooped on superfil, several layers,
> then sanded and primed.
>
> I was told by another builder, to use plain old silicon in any gaps, as it
> will take primer and paint well... but I haven't tried that one yet.
>
> Am attempting to attach a couple pics... lets see it that works.
>
> Mike
> do not archive
>
> --------
> Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
> 601 XL, 3300, Dynon
>
> Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190571#190571
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_3529_120.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_9570_168.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_9605_137.jpg
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Corvair question |
What position should the prop be at when cylinder 6 is at TDC?
Been too long and can't find info.
Appreciate the help.
GPJ
My email address is gpjann1@netzero.com
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL O-200 Prop |
On Sat, Jun 28, 2008 at 10:26:35PM -0500, Floyd wrote:
> Yes, static test is full throttle holding the brakes.
This morning, I did this after my normal runup for a moment...and got 2350
RPM for a moment before I had to back off (the brakes could not hold the
aircraft).
--
Jay Maynard, K5ZC http://www.conmicro.com
http://jmaynard.livejournal.com http://www.tronguy.net
Fairmont, MN (FRM) (Yes, that's me!)
AMD Zodiac CH601XLi N55ZC (got it!)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL O-200 Prop |
Thanks for checking.
I found my problem. The valve timing is off. Time for a little warranty
work!
My Dynon 180 was acting up a little so now will be a good time to send it in
for a checkup.
Hopefully I will have everything fixed and ready to go in a couple weeks.
Floyd Wilkes
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jay Maynard" <jmaynard@conmicro.com>
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: 601XL O-200 Prop
>
> On Sat, Jun 28, 2008 at 10:26:35PM -0500, Floyd wrote:
>> Yes, static test is full throttle holding the brakes.
>
> This morning, I did this after my normal runup for a moment...and got 2350
> RPM for a moment before I had to back off (the brakes could not hold the
> aircraft).
> --
> Jay Maynard, K5ZC http://www.conmicro.com
> http://jmaynard.livejournal.com http://www.tronguy.net
> Fairmont, MN (FRM) (Yes, that's me!)
> AMD Zodiac CH601XLi N55ZC (got it!)
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Rust removal from Core Engine |
Well, I put the rear case into a tub of water and baking soda, with some
electric and it removed the rust really well. I was able to disassemble the
piece with ease! It worked so well, that I went down and bought a 45 gallon tub
and just finished hooking everything up. I have 6 electrodes in the tub and
it is bubbling really good. I will leave it in there overnight and part of
the day tomorrow. Then I will see if she will come apart! I have soaked
with oil, beat with a hammer and a 2 X 4 for 2 days and nothing has moved! It
is solid. So, I am hoping that this will get everything lose enough for me to
disassemble the engine. The rear case bolts just had no rust on them, nor
did the plate on the bottom. They came out really easy. The one I had
started to remove when it was rusted, had a twist in it, so I am glad I stopped
and
waited. This engine is the worse of the 2, so if works on this one, this
should work for anyone! I will let you know in a day or so if it worked. Sure
beats trying to fill that tub up in oil!
Larry Husky
Madras, Oregon
**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
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