---------------------------------------------------------- Zenith601-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 06/30/08: 8 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:05 AM - Re: I did it again! (Scott Thatcher) 2. 06:53 AM - Re: I did it again!/NicoPress tips (Bill Naumuk) 3. 09:33 AM - Filler (AZFlyer) 4. 11:01 AM - Re: Filler (Bill Naumuk) 5. 03:51 PM - Corvair question (gpjann1@netzero.com) 6. 05:37 PM - Re: 601XL O-200 Prop (Jay Maynard) 7. 05:54 PM - Re: 601XL O-200 Prop (Floyd) 8. 08:31 PM - Rust removal from Core Engine (LHusky@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:05:20 AM PST US From: "Scott Thatcher" Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: I did it again! That is too funny Bill! First I thought about it for a second and then burst into laughter. Know why? Scott Thatcher, Palm Beach Gardens, FL 601XL with Corvair, Registered as E-LSA N601EL, http://placestofly.com, EAA203 <> < Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: I did it again!/NicoPress tips Scott- It took your mind off the fact that you just bought a left hand prop for your 'Vair. There's actually an upside to my latest faux pas beyond providing a little humor for my fellow sufferers. I've set so many NicoPress using the $15 ACS device that looks like a flaring tool I'm getting pretty good at it. (Along with carpal tunnel). Here's the scoop (Some stuff courtesy of Tony Bingelis)- 1. Wrap the area of cable you want to cut with electrical tape, lay the cable on a chunk of steel or the back of your vise and give it a good smack with a cold chisel. Absolutely, positively the best way of getting a clean cut. 2. Once you have the cable threaded around the thimble and adjuster, put a crimp in each side of the NicoPress using a large (8" or better) set of sidecutters. Keeps the snake under control. 3. When you can see about 1mm of the edge of the NicoPress exposed in the ACS setter, clamp it down. Then do the same for the opposite side. Finally, center the NicoPress in the tool and clamp one in the middle. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Thatcher" Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 7:04 AM Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: I did it again! > > > That is too funny Bill! First I thought about it for a second and then > burst into laughter. Know why? > > Scott Thatcher, Palm Beach Gardens, FL > 601XL with Corvair, Registered as E-LSA > N601EL, http://placestofly.com, EAA203 > > <> > < section of the fuse, so I cut two long ones for the rudders and two > shorter ones for the elevator. I attach the elevator cables. > << Fill in the blanks. > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 09:33:49 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Filler From: "AZFlyer" List, The subject of filler has been beat to death, but I had to add my 2cents. First, I totally agree with those who said "don't fill the rivets"... I've seen some beautiful finished 601's and unfilled rivets don't detract at all. You're not building a Reno racer here. There are 2 places where I felt the need to use some type of filler. 1. After receiving my 2nd set of fiberglass Stab. tips (the first was miserable) warped, twisted, contorted...unusable! After heat gun on 2nd set, I felt they were usable, but too short. (I felt they should extend to at least back end of the elevator). Hence, my first use of filler. I extended them using an old RC airplane mix of Epoxy and Microballoons. Built up the end and sanded to shape. Remember, Epoxy will stick to almost anything, Resin does not. 2. Second use of filler was those D--- wing tip fiberglass pieces of S---. Tried a product from ACS, "SuperFil"... works great! Very light, easy to apply, easy to sand, takes primer great. Sticks like iron to the fiberglass. I'm told it sticks well to Aluminum also, but I wanted to keep it simple, in case access to strobe, or landing lights was required. Again, I first heat gunned them close to shape, then gooped on superfil, several layers, then sanded and primed. I was told by another builder, to use plain old silicon in any gaps, as it will take primer and paint well... but I haven't tried that one yet. Am attempting to attach a couple pics... lets see it that works. Mike do not archive -------- Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com 601 XL, 3300, Dynon Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190571#190571 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_3529_120.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_9570_168.jpg http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_9605_137.jpg ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 11:01:16 AM PST US From: "Bill Naumuk" Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Filler Mike- Hail, fellow sufferer! You just want to kick the builders who actually got fiberglass parts that fit. They're all smug like, "What's the big deal- I had no trouble?" I, too wasted a month getting my second set of outboard POSs to fit. Please do us all a favor if you have any of the SuperFil left. Rivet a couple of pieces of scrap aluminum together and cover the seam. Let the stuff set up for a couple of days and then flex the hell out of it to see if it will crack and come off. In the meantime, I'm going to shoot an e-mail to ACS. By the way, I agree as far as filling rivets is concerned. Like sticking a rag in a barn door to keep the draft out. Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "AZFlyer" Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 12:33 PM Subject: Zenith601-List: Filler > > List, > > The subject of filler has been beat to death, but I had to add my 2cents. > > First, I totally agree with those who said "don't fill the rivets"... > I've seen some beautiful finished 601's and unfilled rivets don't detract > at all. You're not building a Reno racer here. > > There are 2 places where I felt the need to use some type of filler. > > 1. After receiving my 2nd set of fiberglass Stab. tips (the first was > miserable) warped, twisted, contorted...unusable! After heat gun on 2nd > set, I felt they were usable, but too short. (I felt they should extend > to at least back end of the elevator). Hence, my first use of filler. I > extended them using an old RC airplane mix of Epoxy and Microballoons. > Built up the end and sanded to shape. Remember, Epoxy will stick to > almost anything, Resin does not. > > 2. Second use of filler was those D--- wing tip fiberglass pieces of S---. > Tried a product from ACS, "SuperFil"... works great! Very light, easy to > apply, easy to sand, takes primer great. Sticks like iron to the > fiberglass. > I'm told it sticks well to Aluminum also, but I wanted to keep it simple, > in case access to strobe, or landing lights was required. Again, I first > heat gunned them close to shape, then gooped on superfil, several layers, > then sanded and primed. > > I was told by another builder, to use plain old silicon in any gaps, as it > will take primer and paint well... but I haven't tried that one yet. > > Am attempting to attach a couple pics... lets see it that works. > > Mike > do not archive > > -------- > Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com > 601 XL, 3300, Dynon > > Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"! > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=190571#190571 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_3529_120.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_9570_168.jpg > http://forums.matronics.com//files/img_9605_137.jpg > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 03:51:09 PM PST US From: "gpjann1@netzero.com" Subject: Zenith601-List: Corvair question What position should the prop be at when cylinder 6 is at TDC? Been too long and can't find info. Appreciate the help. GPJ My email address is gpjann1@netzero.com ____________________________________________________________ Click here for great computer networking solutions! http://thirdpartyoffers.netzero.net/TGL2241/fc/Ioyw6i4vC4gqxkCqCYFY44ZoL 2wT1oLO90eaQZoB0S8HrfqrQn1dmd/ ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:37:47 PM PST US From: Jay Maynard Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: 601XL O-200 Prop On Sat, Jun 28, 2008 at 10:26:35PM -0500, Floyd wrote: > Yes, static test is full throttle holding the brakes. This morning, I did this after my normal runup for a moment...and got 2350 RPM for a moment before I had to back off (the brakes could not hold the aircraft). -- Jay Maynard, K5ZC http://www.conmicro.com http://jmaynard.livejournal.com http://www.tronguy.net Fairmont, MN (FRM) (Yes, that's me!) AMD Zodiac CH601XLi N55ZC (got it!) ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:54:47 PM PST US From: "Floyd" Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: 601XL O-200 Prop Thanks for checking. I found my problem. The valve timing is off. Time for a little warranty work! My Dynon 180 was acting up a little so now will be a good time to send it in for a checkup. Hopefully I will have everything fixed and ready to go in a couple weeks. Floyd Wilkes ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay Maynard" Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 7:36 PM Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: 601XL O-200 Prop > > On Sat, Jun 28, 2008 at 10:26:35PM -0500, Floyd wrote: >> Yes, static test is full throttle holding the brakes. > > This morning, I did this after my normal runup for a moment...and got 2350 > RPM for a moment before I had to back off (the brakes could not hold the > aircraft). > -- > Jay Maynard, K5ZC http://www.conmicro.com > http://jmaynard.livejournal.com http://www.tronguy.net > Fairmont, MN (FRM) (Yes, that's me!) > AMD Zodiac CH601XLi N55ZC (got it!) > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:31:20 PM PST US From: LHusky@aol.com Subject: Zenith601-List: Rust removal from Core Engine Well, I put the rear case into a tub of water and baking soda, with some electric and it removed the rust really well. I was able to disassemble the piece with ease! It worked so well, that I went down and bought a 45 gallon tub and just finished hooking everything up. I have 6 electrodes in the tub and it is bubbling really good. I will leave it in there overnight and part of the day tomorrow. Then I will see if she will come apart! I have soaked with oil, beat with a hammer and a 2 X 4 for 2 days and nothing has moved! It is solid. So, I am hoping that this will get everything lose enough for me to disassemble the engine. The rear case bolts just had no rust on them, nor did the plate on the bottom. They came out really easy. The one I had started to remove when it was rusted, had a twist in it, so I am glad I stopped and waited. This engine is the worse of the 2, so if works on this one, this should work for anyone! I will let you know in a day or so if it worked. Sure beats trying to fill that tub up in oil! Larry Husky Madras, Oregon **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for fuel-efficient used cars. 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