Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:10 AM - Re: Gust Lock (vvkidd@mindspring.com)
2. 05:47 AM - Re: Gust Lock (ALAN BEYER)
3. 09:03 AM - Re: Gust Lock (Sabrina)
4. 09:42 AM - Re: Re: Gust Lock (Jay Maynard)
5. 10:28 AM - Re: Gust Lock (Craig Payne)
6. 01:10 PM - Wing Test (Gig Giacona)
7. 01:58 PM - Re: Center Y stick (Bryan Martin)
8. 02:15 PM - Re: Zenith-List: Plexiglass Scratch Repair... (Bryan Martin)
9. 02:31 PM - Re: Gust Lock (Bryan Martin)
Message 1
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Try this for a gust lock. Sorry, no pics.
Go to any hardware store and buy some nylon commode seat bolts, two large rubber
washers (abt 3" dia" and two large steel washers (2" dia). You could make them
from heavy gauge aluminum. Cut the sides off the bolts until they fit between
the flap and aileron, do the same for the elevator. Make a sandwich of the
parts attach a 'Remove' banner and you have it. The nylon won't scratch the
paint nor will the rubber washer. The steel washer gives stability to the sandwich.
Victor Kidd
N922VK
-----Original Message-----
>From: Ron Lendon <rlendon@comcast.net>
>Sent: Nov 20, 2008 10:02 PM
>To: zenith601-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Zenith601-List: Gust Lock
>
>
>For those that are interested I made a set of gust locks for about $4 and a couple
hours of time. They fit between the flap and aileron on my XL wing.
>
>There are some pictures on mykitlog
>
>http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=0&log=65274&row=1
>
>--------
>Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
>WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
>Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
>http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215455#215455
>
>
Message 2
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Simple Gust Locks-----(See Pics).- Flat Alum., Alum rod, and plastic tubi
ng.- Push tubing over rod and drill holes in flat stock (Tight fight) and
pushrod with tubing over it through fat plate, add flag and your done.=0A
-=0AAl from Oshkosh
Message 3
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I built a few of the simple gust locks with flag... the wind would grab the flag
and often pull one off. Once one was off, the other was sure to follow unless...
(the choice of tubing is difficult) the plastic hose gets very hard and
freezes to the paint. If you use softer black synthetic rubber, it falls off
in the heat of the sun even on a freezing day. Nylon did not work much better.
Without the flag, they hang near the aircraft, with the flag, they disappear.
I ended up locking the sticks with the lap belts--just leave the shoulder straps
loose. The closed cell foam in the seat cushion picks up the shape of the sticks
and holds it very well. The elevator is locked in the up position but the
nose is so heavy, the tail does not move. It also gives you a ball park check
of aileron cable tension with the sticks locked in place. It has been outside
for a year now. (Y stick, I don't know.)
My test pilots did not like it at first, so I started locking only the one stick.
Once in, they release the belt on the other seat.
As to aileron cable tension checks, that is a preflight item for now. I built
my seats with various sized loose flat top, curved bottom cushions, 2, 4, 6"
thick. My 6' pilot ends up using the 4" cushion. On top, I have a one piece
1 1/2" tuck and roll leather/kangaroo seating surface. Before getting in, one
lifts out the thin seating surface and puts it on the rear deck, checks two
the cables while kneeling backwards into the bottom cushion. The third cable
is checked by leaning the other seat cushion forward. With the stick locked forward,
it is easier to unkneel, replace your cushion and flip yourself around.
I have 6' 185+ pound guys doing this and it is kinda fun to watch, but very
doable. It can actually be done with the canopy closed (resulting in happy
fingers and heads during gusty conditions.)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215561#215561
Message 4
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On Fri, Nov 21, 2008 at 09:03:07AM -0800, Sabrina wrote:
> I ended up locking the sticks with the lap belts--just leave the shoulder
> straps loose. The closed cell foam in the seat cushion picks up the shape
> of the sticks and holds it very well. The elevator is locked in the up
> position but the nose is so heavy, the tail does not move. It also gives
> you a ball park check of aileron cable tension with the sticks locked in
> place. It has been outside for a year now. (Y stick, I don't know.)
I've avoided doing this because the AMD POH calls for locking the stick in
the forward position.
--
Jay Maynard, K5ZC, PP-ASEL http://www.conmicro.com
http://jmaynard.livejournal.com http://www.tronguy.net
Fairmont, MN (KFRM) (Yes, that's me!)
AMD Zodiac CH601XLi N55ZC http://www.tronguy.net/N55ZC.shtml
Message 5
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Try two tennis balls and a bungee cord. Juan Vega posted a pic a while ago.
-- Craig
Message 6
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Now here's how you test a wing.
http://787milestones.tpninteractive.com/
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=215586#215586
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Center Y stick |
The bolt and nut should tighten down on the 1/4" bushing, holding it
immobile. Then the two bushings act as bearing surfaces.
On Nov 20, 2008, at 10:04 PM, Terry Turnquist wrote:
> Hey builders, question. On 6-B-17 "4" Control stick torque tube
> where the control column bolts onto the torque tube through the 1/4
> in. bushing within a 3/8 in.welded bushing, what are the two bearing
> surfaces. The two bushings or the bolt and small bushing? Hey, you
> think I've just confused you!!
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Zenith-List: Plexiglass Scratch Repair... |
I have used the Novus products with very good results. Novus #3 for
heavy scratches and Novus #2 for light scratching. They are available
from ACS for $6 to $7 in 8 oz. bottles. You rub it in by hand with a
soft cloth. It works very well with little effort. Novus #1 is a
plastic cleaner.
On Nov 21, 2008, at 12:22 AM, Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> During the fitting of the Plexiglass canopy on my RV-8, I managed to
> put some pretty disheartening scratches in the windscreen section.
> You can see from the pictures that they looked pretty bad. A call
> to Van's revealed that a replacement canopy would be $640 + $250
> shipping to California! Ack.
>
> So what to do... A bit of surfing and I found this "Scratch Off"
> windshield repair kit for $35 on the Aircraft Spruce web site:
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/scratchoff.php
>
> Frankly, it just seemed too good to be true. Nothing for $35 could
> be that "magic" I thought, but what did I have to lose at this
> point....
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
Message 9
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I have the Y stick. For my gust lock, I cut out a piece of one inch
thick polyethylene foam to fit around the stick. I push this down into
the opening in the arm rest around the stick and then use a short
piece of rope with "S" hooks on each end to hold the stick forward
against the foam, one hook around the stick and one hook under the
lower edge of the panel. The foam wedged in between the stick and the
side of the opening keeps it from moving much to either side. I was
kind of leery of using a lock between the flap and aileron because I
was worried I would forget to remove it someday before lowering the
flaps and causing damage.
On Nov 20, 2008, at 10:02 PM, Ron Lendon wrote:
> >
>
> For those that are interested I made a set of gust locks for about
> $4 and a couple hours of time. They fit between the flap and
> aileron on my XL wing.
>
> There are some pictures on mykitlog
>
> http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=0&log=65274&row=1
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
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