Today's Message Index:
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     1. 06:06 AM - Re: Re: Cowling winterization plate (David Downey)
     2. 07:53 AM - Re: Cowling winterization plate (Sabrina)
     3. 08:36 AM - Re: Re: Cowling winterization plate (Jim Belcher)
     4. 09:01 AM - Duct tape removal (Terry Turnquist)
     5. 09:29 AM - Re: Cowling winterization plate (Sabrina)
     6. 09:41 AM - Re: Re: Dutch XL crash findings ()
     7. 10:28 AM - Re: Re: Cowling winterization plate (Jim Belcher)
     8. 10:37 AM - Re: Cowling winterization plate ()
     9. 08:59 PM - Re: Dutch XL crash findings (Ron Lendon)
    10. 09:45 PM - Re: Dutch XL crash findings (Sabrina)
 
 
 
Message 1
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Cowling winterization plate | 
      
      Only use lacquer thinner or acetone if the finish can take it...don't ask h
      ow I know these things...
      
      David L. Downey  Harleysville-(SE) PA, USA
      
      
      --- On Fri, 1/16/09, Paul Mulwitz <psm@att.net> wrote:
      From: Paul Mulwitz <psm@att.net>
      Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Re: Cowling winterization plate
      
       ...If there is any problem removing the adhesive, just use a little lacque
      r thinner on
      a rag to wipe it off.
      
      
      =0A=0A=0A      
      
Message 2
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| Subject:  | Re: Cowling winterization plate | 
      
      
      To get duct tape adhesive off your paint... take a strip of the same type of duct
      tape, take a knife and scrape off the adhesive, form that adhesive into a little
      ball, use that ball on your painted surface, it picks up the old adhesive
      like magic.  My grandpa, God rest his soul, used to call it the "Hair of the
      Dog that bit me."  And yes, he liked Red Green a lot too, what would you expect
      from someone born and raised in Green Bay.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225293#225293
      
      
Message 3
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| Subject:  | Re: Cowling winterization plate | 
      
      
      On Friday 16 January 2009 21:30, Sabrina wrote:
      >
      > There is at least one oil sump blanket that is STC'd for the O-200A in
      > flight.   Use that and then pre-heat your oil with a plug in dip stick
      > heater that is removed before flight.
      >
      This is one of the issues we face during the relative infancy of the whole LSA
      
      thing. An STC applies to a type certificated configuration. Unless the O200A 
      is being maintained and annualed by an IA, its type certification probably 
      isn't being maintained.
      
      If the O200A were installed on a type certificated aircraft, one could visit 
      the question as to whether the sump blanket were type certificated for the 
      engine installation on that specific aircraft. But it isn't, it's on an LSA, 
      where the STC does not apply (an LSA doesn't have a type certificate).
      
      What I'm saying is that I don't think the FAA's rules have as yet fully 
      addressed this situation. I have a question(s) in to the FAA on this and 
      related certification/maintenance subjects. I'm hoping I get something 
      definitive enough to share.
      
      Yes, that's probably a naive hope. :-)
      
      ============================================
                      Do not archive.
      ============================================
                      Jim B Belcher
          BS, MS Physics, Math, Computer Science
                        A&P/IA
           Retired aerospace technical manager
      ============================================
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Duct tape removal | 
      
      There's a product called "GOO GONE" which works great. Test on paint before using.
      Get it at Hobby shops like Michael's etc.
      
      
      
      To get duct tape adhesive off your paint... take a strip of the same type of duct
      tape, take a knife and scrape off the adhesive, form that adhesive into a little
      ball, use that ball on your painted surface, it picks up the old adhesive
      like magic.  My grandpa, God rest his soul, used to call it the "Hair of the
      Dog that bit me."  And yes, he liked Red Green a lot too, what would you expect
      from someone born and raised in Green Bay.
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225293#225293
      
      
             
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Cowling winterization plate | 
      
      
      Jay has an S-LSA.  
      
      I can't imagine AMD approving any appliance for the engine that has not been STC'd
      as to that engine.  Just their changing out the FAA-PMA spark plugs for Auto
      plugs required a lot of testing and analysis that Jay is not in the position
      to do re: a non-STC'd oil sump blanket. 
      
      You are correct in pointing out that just because it is STC'd does not mean an
      IA or AP can install it on the S-LSA, only AMD can approve such an installation.
      Their exhaust configuration my not allow for such an installation.
      
      It is different story for the airframe--they built it and could approve anything.
      
      
      Question, can Jay put oil additives in an S-LSA that are not on the approved list
      of lubricants from AMD?
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225312#225312
      
      
Message 6
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| Subject:  | Re: Dutch XL crash findings | 
      
      The two part leading edge skins ought not to be a problem. Several 
      manufacturers do that. As long as the two skins meet (and overlap 
      appropriately) on a nose rib, and are properly riveted, the joint will 
      be at least as strong as the single piece. I agree with you on the 
      forward cant to the spar, and I'd certainly like the upper flange to be 
      on the FORWARD face of the spar. If you need to open up to do a repair, 
      or get to the tank, you either have to open up about 5 or 6 rivets 
      behind the spar, or figure out how to remove the rivet stubs rattling 
      around in there.
      
      Paul Rodriguez
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: ashontz<mailto:ashontz@nbme.org> 
        To: zenith601-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith601-list@matronics.com> 
        Sent: Thursday, January 15, 2009 2:23 PM
        Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Dutch XL crash findings
      
      
      <ashontz@nbme.org<mailto:ashontz@nbme.org>>
      
        Regardless of the cause, (most likely overstress from pilot error or 
      shodding building in caparison to how Zenith would specifiy or build it 
      themselves), one thing that is pretty consistent is HOW the wing breaks 
      when it does break. That is:
      
        near the root, top of spar buckling forward, as would be suspected 
      considering the slight forward cant to the spar. Personally, I'd rather 
      see NO forward cant and I'm sure makes the wing slightly weaker than I'd 
      prefer, but not weaker than the properly build design limitation, but 
      whatever.
      
        What that means is, if that's the weak link (not necessarily the 
      problem), but the weak link in the wing itself, maybe double up on 
      rivets in that area or use even better pulled rivets or possibly even 
      bucked rivets. I'd also stay away from the 15 gallon tanks keeping all 
      the ribs (rear and nose ribs) in line instead of offset around the tank 
      extension. I wouldn't mess with multiple piece leading edge skins (ie. 
      providing easier access to the fuel tank) and instead use just one 
      continuous 12' leading edge skin, and I wouldn't mess with the wing 
      locker. But that's just me.
      
        --------
        Andy Shontz
      
        do not archive
      
        CH601XL - Corvair
        www.mykitlog.com/ashontz<http://www.mykitlog.com/ashontz>
      
      
        Read this topic online here:
      
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224969#224969<http://forums
      .matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=224969#224969>
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith601-List<http://www.matronics.co
      m/Navigator?Zenith601-List>
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
      on>
      
      
Message 7
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Cowling winterization plate | 
      
      
      On Saturday 17 January 2009 11:29, Sabrina wrote:
      >
      > Jay has an S-LSA.
      >
      > I can't imagine AMD approving any appliance for the engine that has not
      > been STC'd as to that engine.  Just their changing out the FAA-PMA spark
      > plugs for Auto plugs required a lot of testing and analysis that Jay is not
      > in the position to do re: a non-STC'd oil sump blanket.
      >
      > You are correct in pointing out that just because it is STC'd does not mean
      > an IA or AP can install it on the S-LSA, only AMD can approve such an
      > installation.  Their exhaust configuration my not allow for such an
      > installation.
      >
      > It is different story for the airframe--they built it and could approve
      > anything.
      
      That is my point exactly. Any change to the LSA must come from the 
      manufacturer, not from the FAA. We can't base our usage on approval from some 
      other airworthiness system. The manufacturer can probably use that as a 
      basis, if they so desire, but we can't.
      
      > Question, can Jay put oil additives in an S-LSA that are not on the
      > approved list of lubricants from AMD?
      
      My gut feeling is no, he cannot legally do so. But these are the exact kinds 
      of questions I'm hoping to get the FAA to clarify.
      
      It's very confusing to an IA/A&P. Although we sometimes curse the FAA for 
      giving us too much of the wrong kind of guidance, it's probably worse not to 
      have any guidance. I don't think we can really do much more in some cases 
      than say that there is no approved procedure by the relevant airworthiness 
      authority. In the case of Jay's additives, that would be the manufacturer of 
      the LSA, AMD. If AMD didn't specifically approve it, I'd say it's not 
      approved.
      
      An example for certificated aircraft would be the use of a non-approved 
      lubricant. For example, I've run into some who thought it was a really great 
      idea to use Mouse Milk as an additive in certificated engines. I probably 
      don't need to say that Mouse Milk is not on the approved list for any general 
      aviation engine of which I am aware.
      
      Our authority, such as it is, is derived from whoever controls the 
      airworthiness for a given aircraft. I suspect many of us don't feel 
      comfortable signing log book entries without an approved airworthiness basis 
      for whatever was just done.
      
      Once a year, there are nationwide training sessions for IA's, which are used 
      as a basis for the continuance of our IA. One of the better ones is in the 
      Dallas area. It covers questions IAs are having in the field: areas of 
      conflicting guidance, and areas of no guidance. It also usually covers 
      signifcant general aviation crashes of the year, and what really happened.
      
      I submitted my questions about LSA maintenance and certification issues to the
      
      people who conduct that training session. I was told that they would try to 
      create a session to address these issues, and clarify the FAA position. 
      Assuming that happens, I'm going to request permission to make the LSA part 
      of the presentation available to this list. 
      
      And, if you are in the Dallas area, the seminar is open to all (but with a 
      $100+ fee). I believe it's on Feb 28, this year. You can get details on it at 
      ASOD.com. I've found that often the information is of broader interest to 
      those maintaining their own aircraft than just IAs. 
      
      But a word of caution: it starts at 0730 and ends around 1700. It's pretty 
      cram-packed. The donuts are good, though!
      -- 
      ============================================
                      Do not archive.
      ============================================
                      Jim B Belcher
          BS, MS Physics, Math, Computer Science
                        A&P/IA
           Retired aerospace technical manager
      ============================================
      
      
Message 8
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Cowling winterization plate | 
      
      Right on, Paul---I used rivnuts for the forward upper skin, and, 78 
      rivnuts leter, found that almost 1/4th of them spun. There;s a little 
      protrusion on each one that allegedly digs into the side of the hole and 
      is supposed to hold it. It don't. 78 nut plates later, a guy suggested 
      dipping each rivnut in epoxy or Proseal to keep them from spinning. Ah, 
      yes, the sequence of life:
      
      1. You have a problem.
      2. You come up with a solution.
      3. It's the wrong solution.
      4. You correct the solution.
      5. Some guy comes along with an easier solution.
      
      Paul Rodriguez
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Paul Mulwitz<mailto:psm@att.net> 
        To: zenith601-list@matronics.com<mailto:zenith601-list@matronics.com> 
        Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 8:23 PM
        Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Cowling winterization plate
      
      
      <psm@att.net<mailto:psm@att.net>>
      
        Hi Jay,
      
        First, I would stay away from rivnuts.  They have a horrible 
        reputation for spinning in their holes so you can't unfasten the 
        screws later on.  If you feel you must use threaded fasteners, then 
        you should learn about nut-plates or just use bolts and nuts.
      
        You might do a lot better to use ordinary pulled rivets.  I suggest 
        you practice a little at installing them and drilling them out when 
        you want them to be gone.  To be consistent with the construction of 
        the plane you should use Avex rivets (get a fellow Zenith builder to 
        donate a handful of them - we all have lots of extras).  For 
        something like these air baffles you would probably be ok with 
        hardware store rivets.  Perhaps 1/8" aluminum short or medium length.
      
        You might start with .025 or .016 6061-T6 sheet metal and drill first 
        with #40 pilot drill and then line-drill with #30 for the 1/8" 
        rivets.  (Line drilling is when you drill through both  connecting 
        sheets at the same time.  This gets the holes perfectly lined up.)
      
        I'd suggest leaving the firewall alone and using the skin behind the 
        firewall for your new baffle attachment.
      
        Good luck,
      
        Paul
        XL getting close
      
      
        Good luck,
      
        Paul
      
        At 05:39 PM 1/16/2009, you wrote:
      <jmaynard@conmicro.com<mailto:jmaynard@conmicro.com>>
        >
        >I need to do something to make my O-200 happier in the winter. I 
      haven't
        >seen oil temperatures above 140 F since it got cold around here. 
      that's
        >making me nervous about not boiling the condensation out of the oil.
        >
        >The O-200, at least in the AMD Zodiac, does not have an oil cooler to 
      cover
        >up. That means I need to restrict airflow through the cowling. I've 
      spoken
        >to an owner in Crookston, Minnesota, and he recommended that I first 
      make a
        >plate to cover the air exit from the bottom of the cowling, and then 
      add
        >plates at the inlet only if that doesn't do enough. I've got no 
      problems
        >with that plan in general. The question I have, however, is simple: 
      How do I
        >attach the plate?
        >
        >The forward end would need to attach somewhere inside the lower cowl,
        >forward of the opening. That's easily enough done: holes in the cowl 
      itself,
        >and rivnuts in the plate. The fun comes in attaching the rear of the 
      plate
        >to the firewall. Suggestions? More rivnuts at the bottom of the 
      firewall
        >itself, or are there better ideas?
        >--
        >Jay Maynard, K5ZC, PP-ASEL, AGI      
      http://www.conmicro.com<http://www.conmicro.com/>
        >http://jmaynard.livejournal.com       
      http://www.tronguy.net<http://www.tronguy.net/>
        >Fairmont, MN (KFRM)                        (Yes, that's me!)
        >AMD Zodiac CH601XLi N55ZC 
      http://www.tronguy.net/N55ZC.shtml<http://www.tronguy.net/N55ZC.shtml>
        >
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith601-List<http://www.matronics.co
      m/Navigator?Zenith601-List>
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
      on>
      
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Dutch XL crash findings | 
      
      
      Sabrina,
      
      Are those your gussets on the outside of the skin?  I read the print that the gussets
      were inside the skin.  They are represented by a hidden line and that usually
      indicates behind the outer material.
      
      --------
      Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
      WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
      Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
      http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225426#225426
      
      
Message 10
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| Subject:  | Re: Dutch XL crash findings | 
      
      
      Good point Ron... 
      
      see attached...
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=225430#225430
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/gussetsv2_466.jpg
      
      
 
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