Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:33 AM - Re: Question for the Machinists (jaybannist@cs.com)
2. 06:28 AM - Re: Question for the Machinists (Gig Giacona)
3. 06:39 AM - Re: Re: Question for the Machinists (Paul Mulwitz)
4. 06:39 AM - Re: Woodcomp SR3000 2 blade Vs 3 blade? (macleod@eagle.ca)
5. 07:52 AM - Re: Woodcomp SR3000 2 blade Vs 3 blade? (K Dilks)
6. 10:01 AM - Re: Question for the Machinists (Brady)
7. 10:12 AM - Re: Corv-oil Filler Tube (Brady)
8. 12:40 PM - Re: Question for the Machinists (AZFlyer)
9. 02:48 PM - Spinner Fitting (tmakibbin)
10. 03:08 PM - Re: Spinner Fitting (jaybannist@cs.com)
11. 05:53 PM - Re: Question for the Machinists (PatrickW)
12. 06:52 PM - Re: Question for the Machinists (leinad)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Question for the Machinists |
Patrick,
I am not a machinist, but I completed a 601XL.? Drilling that cotter pin hole is
an intimidating task, but it is, in reality, not that difficult. Two critical
items: 1) Center punch before drilling and 2) make sure your drill bit is sharp.?
I have bought brand new dull bits.? Try drilling and if it doesn't go the
way it should, ash can that bit and get another one. If your bit is sharp, drilling
steel is just not a problem.? I used a right angle attachment for my drill,
with a threaded, short bit.? I also used a slightly larger bit to bevel
the end of the hole to make it easier to insert that tiny cotter pin.?
You can do it.? Get with it !
Jay Bannister ?
-----Original Message-----
From: PatrickW <pwhoyt@yahoo.com>
Sent: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:13 pm
Subject: Zenith601-List: Question for the Machinists
Does anyone have any advice on the best way to drill a 1/16" hole straight
through a solid 5/16" steel rod, 3mm from the edge of that steel rod...?
It's for part 65-C-2-2, which is the canopy bottom bracket, where the gas spring
attaches. The 1/16" hole is for a cotter key.
I have not had much success drilling a 1/16" hole in anything in the past, much
less a 4130 steel rod.
Thanks,
- Patrick
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| Subject: | Re: Question for the Machinists |
I'm the furthest from a machinist on the list but here is how I did it.
Center punch the hole.
Use a new drill bit.
Use an electric drill and take your time. You don't get extra points for doing
it quick.
I'm pretty sure I added a few drops of oil when I did it as well.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231791#231791
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| Subject: | Re: Question for the Machinists |
One further thought on the cotter pin holes. You really don't have
to drill them 1/16". 3/32" works just as well and is a lot easier to drill.
Paul
XL getting close
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| Subject: | Re: Woodcomp SR3000 2 blade Vs 3 blade? |
Kev:
Yes, I have a SR3000 3 blade 1700 mm on a Rotax 912S.
Mike
----------------------------------------------------
> <kevin.dilks@liwest.at>
>
> MIkem thans for that , is your 3 blade variable pitch ? cant see getting
> 130 knts unless it is. A XL here would do 100 knts at 5000 butIm not sure
> how he had the prop pitched. I would love 130 knts @5000 !
> Kev
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| Subject: | Re: Woodcomp SR3000 2 blade Vs 3 blade? |
macleod(at)eagle.ca wrote:
> Kev:
> Mike,
> What constant speed controller do you have , woodcomp or the smart Avionics one?
> Any information from other users regarding the 2 blade Sr 3000??
> Kev
>
> Yes, I have a SR3000 3 blade 1700 mm on a Rotax 912S.
>
> Mike
> ----------------------------------------------------
>
>
> >
> >
> >
> > MIkem thans for that , is your 3 blade variable pitch ? cant see getting
> > 130 knts unless it is. A XL here would do 100 knts at 5000 butIm not sure
> > how he had the prop pitched. I would love 130 knts @5000 !
> > Kev
> >
> >
>
--------
Austria .............
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231809#231809
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| Subject: | Re: Question for the Machinists |
Gentlemen,
The standard procedure for drilling any hole would start with a center punch.
Any hole drilled in a piece of irregular shape would be done in the drill press
and should be held in a vise.
The condition of you drill bit will determine your success (or lack there of).
The bit must be sharp and each fluke must be of equal length or the drill bit will
walk off center.
A new bit of decent quality will ensure a fairly straight hole.
Cutting fluid will help to keep your bit cool and sharper longer.
Any HSS drill bit less than 1/2" should be spun at least 500 rpm for mild steel.
(4130 will work at that speed also).
Don't push too hard on small bits or they get shorter faster :)
One Cool trick is to file a small flat on the start side of the rod and if you
connect the corners of the flat you will be very close to the center of the rod.
Another way would be to make a drilling fixture:
I will often drill out the threads of a nut of the appropriate size with a smaller
drill and ream it to size for a snug fit.
Then drill the nut in a drill press from flat to flat and now you have a drill
guide. Also if you use the end of the nut as a constant depth to insert your
rod, the holes will be a uniform distance from the end.
this looks professional :)
Just a couple of tricks I have used.
--------
Brady McCormick
Poulsbo, WA
www.magnificentmachine.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231837#231837
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| Subject: | Re: Corv-oil Filler Tube |
Paul,
the placement of you fill tube will be determined by the rest of the installation.
Rather than Blaze a new trail why not follow a proven path of success?
You basically have three options:
Stock location with a shorter tube.
Top or side of a Valve cover either side.
Or the top cover any where it won't be in the way.
But rather than start with you oil fill tube and work around that, I would suggest
building the rest of the engine and work the oil tube in where ever it works
best with the rest of the installation.
for more information see:
www.flycorvair.com
http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/
Nearly every question you have has been asked and or answered before.
these two websites have a wealth of information and maybe some cool ideas you could
use on your engine.
When you are ready for parts, check my website for the good stuff. :)
--------
Brady McCormick
Poulsbo, WA
www.magnificentmachine.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231838#231838
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| Subject: | Re: Question for the Machinists |
Patrick,
Slow drill in drillpress, light pressure...cutting oil... drills like going thur
butter... center punch or center drill helps start...
Mike
--------
Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com
601 XL, 3300, Dynon
Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231875#231875
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I have the fiberglass spinner from USAJabiru. It is basically a cone with no cutout
for the propeller (Understandable). But my question for anyone is, "how
did you go about marking and making the cutouts for the propeller blades on the
spinner?"
Thanks,
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231892#231892
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| Subject: | Re: Spinner Fitting |
Tom,
I have a Van's spinner, but the process would be the same.? I made a band out of
Bristol board to simulate the lower portion of the spinner.? I made rough cutouts
for the prop blades then fine tuned the cutouts by applying pieces of masking
tape to the edges of the rough cutout, until I got a close fit to the prop
blades.? That will then serve as a template for cutting the fiberglass cone.
I used a fine toothed coping saw to make the actual cuts.? I used part of the
cutout fiberglass to make a filler for the opening behind the prop blades.
Jay Bannister
-----Original Message-----
From: tmakibbin <tmak@comcast.net>
Sent: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 4:47 pm
Subject: Zenith601-List: Spinner Fitting
I have the fiberglass spinner from USAJabiru. It is basically a cone with no
cutout for the propeller (Understandable). But my question for anyone is, "how
did you go about marking and making the cutouts for the propeller blades on the
spinner?"
Thanks,
Tom
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231892#231892
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Question for the Machinists |
Hey All - thanks to your advice and tips, I was able to successfully drill those
holes.
I went to the hardware store and bought new 5/64" drill bits. There were "high
speed steel" ones for something like 79 cents apiece, and "cobalt steel" ones
for around $2.50 apiece. I bought two of each.
I filed a flat spot on the top curvature of the rod, then measured and marked the
spot where I wanted to drill. I used a spring loaded center punch to mark
the spot.
I chucked the "cobalt" drill bits into my drill press so that only about 1/3 of
an inch stuck out, and I tightened the drive belt of the drill press. This decreased
the "wobble" which I think would otherwise lead to flexing of the bits
and then breaking them off (I gotta find a good non-Chinese made drill press).
Then I clamped the pieces tightly onto my drill press and set it up so the bit
was just a hair above the workpiece. I had some "light cutting oil" that I put
onto the drill bit by poking an old rivet stem into the oil and then dabbing
it onto the drill bit every so often.
I then drilled down into the workpiece just a little bit, then I backed off and
stopped and wiped the shavings off. I added more cutting oil and drilled a little
bit deeper. I repeated this 5 or 6 times until the drill bit came out the
other side.
Both workpieces came out just perfect. :-)
Thanks!
- Patrick
--------
Patrick
601XL/Corvair
N63PZ (reserved)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231937#231937
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| Subject: | Re: Question for the Machinists |
On small round hard surfaces I like to put a little flat or dip on the center with
a grinder before drilling. I usually find a center punch inadequate. I
really love these little holes, because it's the only time when my crumby sears
drill press is ever really turning slow enough. A drill press made for home
hobbyists is meant for cutting wood, not steel. A drop of oil or cutting fluid
is a good idea on steel.
Dan
PatrickW wrote:
> Does anyone have any advice on the best way to drill a 1/16" hole straight through
a solid 5/16" steel rod, 3mm from the edge of that steel rod...?
>
> It's for part 65-C-2-2, which is the canopy bottom bracket, where the gas spring
attaches. The 1/16" hole is for a cotter key.
>
> I have not had much success drilling a 1/16" hole in anything in the past, much
less a 4130 steel rod.
>
> Thanks,
>
> - Patrick
--------
Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231948#231948
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