---------------------------------------------------------- Zenith601-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 02/24/09: 12 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:33 AM - Re: Question for the Machinists (jaybannist@cs.com) 2. 06:28 AM - Re: Question for the Machinists (Gig Giacona) 3. 06:39 AM - Re: Re: Question for the Machinists (Paul Mulwitz) 4. 06:39 AM - Re: Woodcomp SR3000 2 blade Vs 3 blade? (macleod@eagle.ca) 5. 07:52 AM - Re: Woodcomp SR3000 2 blade Vs 3 blade? (K Dilks) 6. 10:01 AM - Re: Question for the Machinists (Brady) 7. 10:12 AM - Re: Corv-oil Filler Tube (Brady) 8. 12:40 PM - Re: Question for the Machinists (AZFlyer) 9. 02:48 PM - Spinner Fitting (tmakibbin) 10. 03:08 PM - Re: Spinner Fitting (jaybannist@cs.com) 11. 05:53 PM - Re: Question for the Machinists (PatrickW) 12. 06:52 PM - Re: Question for the Machinists (leinad) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:33:15 AM PST US Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Question for the Machinists From: jaybannist@cs.com Patrick, I am not a machinist, but I completed a 601XL.? Drilling that cotter pin hole is an intimidating task, but it is, in reality, not that difficult. Two critical items: 1) Center punch before drilling and 2) make sure your drill bit is sharp.? I have bought brand new dull bits.? Try drilling and if it doesn't go the way it should, ash can that bit and get another one. If your bit is sharp, drilling steel is just not a problem.? I used a right angle attachment for my drill, with a threaded, short bit.? I also used a slightly larger bit to bevel the end of the hole to make it easier to insert that tiny cotter pin.? You can do it.? Get with it ! Jay Bannister ? -----Original Message----- From: PatrickW Sent: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:13 pm Subject: Zenith601-List: Question for the Machinists Does anyone have any advice on the best way to drill a 1/16" hole straight through a solid 5/16" steel rod, 3mm from the edge of that steel rod...? It's for part 65-C-2-2, which is the canopy bottom bracket, where the gas spring attaches. The 1/16" hole is for a cotter key. I have not had much success drilling a 1/16" hole in anything in the past, much less a 4130 steel rod. Thanks, - Patrick ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:28:49 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Question for the Machinists From: "Gig Giacona" I'm the furthest from a machinist on the list but here is how I did it. Center punch the hole. Use a new drill bit. Use an electric drill and take your time. You don't get extra points for doing it quick. I'm pretty sure I added a few drops of oil when I did it as well. -------- W.R. "Gig" Giacona 601XL Under Construction See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231791#231791 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:39:49 AM PST US From: Paul Mulwitz Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Re: Question for the Machinists One further thought on the cotter pin holes. You really don't have to drill them 1/16". 3/32" works just as well and is a lot easier to drill. Paul XL getting close ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:39:49 AM PST US Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Woodcomp SR3000 2 blade Vs 3 blade? From: macleod@eagle.ca Kev: Yes, I have a SR3000 3 blade 1700 mm on a Rotax 912S. Mike ---------------------------------------------------- > > > MIkem thans for that , is your 3 blade variable pitch ? cant see getting > 130 knts unless it is. A XL here would do 100 knts at 5000 butIm not sure > how he had the prop pitched. I would love 130 knts @5000 ! > Kev ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:52:05 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Woodcomp SR3000 2 blade Vs 3 blade? From: "K Dilks" macleod(at)eagle.ca wrote: > Kev: > Mike, > What constant speed controller do you have , woodcomp or the smart Avionics one? > Any information from other users regarding the 2 blade Sr 3000?? > Kev > > Yes, I have a SR3000 3 blade 1700 mm on a Rotax 912S. > > Mike > ---------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > MIkem thans for that , is your 3 blade variable pitch ? cant see getting > > 130 knts unless it is. A XL here would do 100 knts at 5000 butIm not sure > > how he had the prop pitched. I would love 130 knts @5000 ! > > Kev > > > > > -------- Austria ............. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231809#231809 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 10:01:46 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Question for the Machinists From: "Brady" Gentlemen, The standard procedure for drilling any hole would start with a center punch. Any hole drilled in a piece of irregular shape would be done in the drill press and should be held in a vise. The condition of you drill bit will determine your success (or lack there of). The bit must be sharp and each fluke must be of equal length or the drill bit will walk off center. A new bit of decent quality will ensure a fairly straight hole. Cutting fluid will help to keep your bit cool and sharper longer. Any HSS drill bit less than 1/2" should be spun at least 500 rpm for mild steel. (4130 will work at that speed also). Don't push too hard on small bits or they get shorter faster :) One Cool trick is to file a small flat on the start side of the rod and if you connect the corners of the flat you will be very close to the center of the rod. Another way would be to make a drilling fixture: I will often drill out the threads of a nut of the appropriate size with a smaller drill and ream it to size for a snug fit. Then drill the nut in a drill press from flat to flat and now you have a drill guide. Also if you use the end of the nut as a constant depth to insert your rod, the holes will be a uniform distance from the end. this looks professional :) Just a couple of tricks I have used. -------- Brady McCormick Poulsbo, WA www.magnificentmachine.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231837#231837 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:12:35 AM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Corv-oil Filler Tube From: "Brady" Paul, the placement of you fill tube will be determined by the rest of the installation. Rather than Blaze a new trail why not follow a proven path of success? You basically have three options: Stock location with a shorter tube. Top or side of a Valve cover either side. Or the top cover any where it won't be in the way. But rather than start with you oil fill tube and work around that, I would suggest building the rest of the engine and work the oil tube in where ever it works best with the rest of the installation. for more information see: www.flycorvair.com http://home.hiwaay.net/~langford/ Nearly every question you have has been asked and or answered before. these two websites have a wealth of information and maybe some cool ideas you could use on your engine. When you are ready for parts, check my website for the good stuff. :) -------- Brady McCormick Poulsbo, WA www.magnificentmachine.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231838#231838 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 12:40:43 PM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Question for the Machinists From: "AZFlyer" Patrick, Slow drill in drillpress, light pressure...cutting oil... drills like going thur butter... center punch or center drill helps start... Mike -------- Mike Miller @ millrml@aol.com 601 XL, 3300, Dynon Remember, "the second mouse gets the cheese"! Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231875#231875 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 02:48:17 PM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Spinner Fitting From: "tmakibbin" I have the fiberglass spinner from USAJabiru. It is basically a cone with no cutout for the propeller (Understandable). But my question for anyone is, "how did you go about marking and making the cutouts for the propeller blades on the spinner?" Thanks, Tom Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231892#231892 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 03:08:46 PM PST US Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Spinner Fitting From: jaybannist@cs.com Tom, I have a Van's spinner, but the process would be the same.? I made a band out of Bristol board to simulate the lower portion of the spinner.? I made rough cutouts for the prop blades then fine tuned the cutouts by applying pieces of masking tape to the edges of the rough cutout, until I got a close fit to the prop blades.? That will then serve as a template for cutting the fiberglass cone. I used a fine toothed coping saw to make the actual cuts.? I used part of the cutout fiberglass to make a filler for the opening behind the prop blades. Jay Bannister -----Original Message----- From: tmakibbin Sent: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 4:47 pm Subject: Zenith601-List: Spinner Fitting I have the fiberglass spinner from USAJabiru. It is basically a cone with no cutout for the propeller (Understandable). But my question for anyone is, "how did you go about marking and making the cutouts for the propeller blades on the spinner?" Thanks, Tom Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231892#231892 ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 05:53:22 PM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Question for the Machinists From: "PatrickW" Hey All - thanks to your advice and tips, I was able to successfully drill those holes. I went to the hardware store and bought new 5/64" drill bits. There were "high speed steel" ones for something like 79 cents apiece, and "cobalt steel" ones for around $2.50 apiece. I bought two of each. I filed a flat spot on the top curvature of the rod, then measured and marked the spot where I wanted to drill. I used a spring loaded center punch to mark the spot. I chucked the "cobalt" drill bits into my drill press so that only about 1/3 of an inch stuck out, and I tightened the drive belt of the drill press. This decreased the "wobble" which I think would otherwise lead to flexing of the bits and then breaking them off (I gotta find a good non-Chinese made drill press). Then I clamped the pieces tightly onto my drill press and set it up so the bit was just a hair above the workpiece. I had some "light cutting oil" that I put onto the drill bit by poking an old rivet stem into the oil and then dabbing it onto the drill bit every so often. I then drilled down into the workpiece just a little bit, then I backed off and stopped and wiped the shavings off. I added more cutting oil and drilled a little bit deeper. I repeated this 5 or 6 times until the drill bit came out the other side. Both workpieces came out just perfect. :-) Thanks! - Patrick -------- Patrick 601XL/Corvair N63PZ (reserved) Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231937#231937 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 06:52:18 PM PST US Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Question for the Machinists From: "leinad" On small round hard surfaces I like to put a little flat or dip on the center with a grinder before drilling. I usually find a center punch inadequate. I really love these little holes, because it's the only time when my crumby sears drill press is ever really turning slow enough. A drill press made for home hobbyists is meant for cutting wood, not steel. A drop of oil or cutting fluid is a good idea on steel. Dan PatrickW wrote: > Does anyone have any advice on the best way to drill a 1/16" hole straight through a solid 5/16" steel rod, 3mm from the edge of that steel rod...? > > It's for part 65-C-2-2, which is the canopy bottom bracket, where the gas spring attaches. The 1/16" hole is for a cotter key. > > I have not had much success drilling a 1/16" hole in anything in the past, much less a 4130 steel rod. > > Thanks, > > - Patrick -------- Scratch building XL with Corvair Engine Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=231948#231948 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message zenith601-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Zenith601-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/zenith601-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/zenith601-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.