Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:27 AM - Canopy Hardware Question (MHerder)
2. 06:08 AM - Re: Canopy Hardware Question (jaybannist@cs.com)
3. 06:15 AM - Re: Canopy Hardware Question (Gig Giacona)
4. 09:12 AM - Re: Canopy Hardware Question (Bryan Martin)
5. 09:43 AM - Re: Re: Canopy Hardware Question (Terry Turnquist)
6. 11:20 AM - Re: Canopy Hardware Question (Gig Giacona)
7. 06:08 PM - Re: Paint Peeled of after using Prekote as etching agent (Jugle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Canopy Hardware Question |
OK, so I decided not to use pop rivets to fasten the acrylic canopy to its frame.
I've opted to use the alternate method that Zenith has provided, using a 5/16"
hole in the canopy, a dimpled washer and a coarse thread screw. I used the
exact numbers called for in the plans.
I drilled the holes in to the tube and through the acrylic using a #30. I have
since found that a #30 is slightly too large to really grip the screw. I don't
want part of my preflight to involve tightening all of my canopy screws, seems
like I would be constantly be chasing these.
The reason I opted to use the 5/16" and screws was because using a pop rivet in
a piece of plastic that cracks easily gives me the heebie jeebies. My thought
is to use an A4 or A5 in lieu of the screw but through the washer, this would
reduce any risk in cracking due to the expansion of the rivet and I wouldn't
have to be constantly re tightening screws.
The screws I'm using are #6, so maybe going to a #8 would work, but I'm not sure
that the head wouldn't be to big then to be fully recessed.
Your thoughts are appreciated.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244765#244765
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Hardware Question |
Mike,
The problem is not expansion of fasteners.? It is the acrylic that has the expansion
and contraction that is greater than metal.? You want it to be able to "float",
so to speak, ir at least, to "wiggle" in relation to the frame and the
fasteners.? Just get flush head PK screws that fit tightly in the hole in the
frame and loosely through the dished washer and the hole in the acrylic. Then
don't screw them down tight to the acrylic.
Jay Bannister?
-----Original Message-----
From: MHerder <michaelherder@beckgroup.com>
Sent: Wed, 20 May 2009 7:26 am
Subject: Zenith601-List: Canopy Hardware Question
OK, so I decided not to use pop rivets to fasten the acrylic canopy to its
frame. I've opted to use the alternate method that Zenith has provided, using
a
5/16" hole in the canopy, a dimpled washer and a coarse thread screw. I used
the exact numbers called for in the plans.
I drilled the holes in to the tube and through the acrylic using a #30. I have
since found that a #30 is slightly too large to really grip the screw. I don't
want part of my preflight to involve tightening all of my canopy screws, seems
like I would be constantly be chasing these.
The reason I opted to use the 5/16" and screws was because using a pop rivet in
a piece of plastic that cracks easily gives me the heebie jeebies. My thought
is to use an A4 or A5 in lieu of the screw but through the washer, this would
reduce any risk in cracking due to the expansion of the rivet and I wouldn't
have to be constantly re tightening screws.
The screws I'm using are #6, so maybe going to a #8 would work, but I'm not sure
that the head wouldn't be to big then to be fully recessed.
Your thoughts are appreciated.
--------
One Rivet at a Time!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244765#244765
________________________________________________________________________
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Hardware Question |
If they aren't real loose you can try a dab of Lock-Tite on each screw.
Riveting the canopy can go badly real quick.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244769#244769
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Hardware Question |
I have never had a problem with my canopy screws coming loose in
nearly five years and 300 hours of flight time. If you drilled your
holes a bit too large, consider putting a dab of adhesive on the screw
threads when installing them, that should effectively lock them in
place.
On May 20, 2009, at 8:26 AM, MHerder wrote:
>
> OK, so I decided not to use pop rivets to fasten the acrylic canopy
> to its frame. I've opted to use the alternate method that Zenith
> has provided, using a 5/16" hole in the canopy, a dimpled washer and
> a coarse thread screw. I used the exact numbers called for in the
> plans.
>
> I drilled the holes in to the tube and through the acrylic using a
> #30. I have since found that a #30 is slightly too large to really
> grip the screw. I don't want part of my preflight to involve
> tightening all of my canopy screws, seems like I would be constantly
> be chasing these.
>
--
Bryan Martin
N61BM, CH 601 XL,
RAM Subaru, Stratus redrive.
do not archive.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Hardware Question |
how about rivets designed for fiberglass, plastics. Larger surface area, li
ghter tension etc. To big and bulky?
do not archive
--- On Wed, 5/20/09, Gig Giacona <wrgiacona@gmail.com> wrote:
From: Gig Giacona <wrgiacona@gmail.com>
Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: Canopy Hardware Question
If they aren't real loose you can try a dab of Lock-Tite on each screw.
Riveting the canopy can go badly real quick.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244769#244769
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Hardware Question |
ter_turn(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> how about rivets designed for fiberglass, plastics. Larger surface area, lighter
tension etc. To big and bulky?
>
I have no idea. The thing is you may want to remove it at some point and the screws
are the way to go in that case. Unless you just boarded out a way oversized
bunch of holes the lock-tite ought to handle it. I'd suggest the Blue.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244802#244802
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Peeled of after using Prekote as etching agent |
Thanks for the tip.
When I bought some primer the seller was trying to sell me some Prekote. He told
me all the RV builders use it, but then they use a lot of clad 2024.
In the Zenith Construction Standards they simply recommend scouring and wiping
with thinner.
Glenn.
--------
Glenn Andressen
601XL- Rudder, Stabiliser parts completed, Wing ribs, nose ribs done, 70% Fuselage
parts made.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=244849#244849
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