Zenith601-List Digest Archive

Thu 06/11/09


Total Messages Posted: 6



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 09:43 AM - Rubber fuel line (Bob McArdle)
     2. 09:53 AM - Re: Rubber fuel line (John Davis)
     3. 12:47 PM - Questions On Reamers (david van lanen)
     4. 03:38 PM - 601XL - Lower Elevator Cable Rear Fairlead Question (david van lanen)
     5. 04:41 PM - Re: 601XL - Lower Elevator Cable Rear Fairlead Question (Paul Mulwitz)
     6. 05:21 PM - Re: Questions On Reamers (Scott E Bevier)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 09:43:07 AM PST US
    From: "Bob McArdle" <rmacpunk@netzero.net>
    Subject: Rubber fuel line
    What to use to attach rubber fuel line to front side of center spar enroute to fuel selector? Thanks for any info.


    Message 2


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    Time: 09:53:03 AM PST US
    From: John Davis <johnd@data-tech.com>
    Subject: Re: Rubber fuel line
    Hi Bob, I used an Adel clamp to secure the fuel line. John Davis N610JD based at 7A8 Burnsville, NC Bob McArdle wrote: > What to use to attach rubber fuel line to front side of center spar > enroute to fuel selector? Thanks for any info. > * > > > *


    Message 3


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    Time: 12:47:23 PM PST US
    From: "david van lanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Questions On Reamers
    I need to use a 6.4mm reamer for installing the bushings in the upper and lower rudder hinge holes on my 601XL project. I am totally unfamiliar with reamers. Can anyone educate me on the following: - Is the goal to get a tight fit of the bushing in the hole? - Is it best to purchase a reamer with a "fixed" size, or do the adjustable reamers work OK? - Most of the reamers I looked at online do not appear to have tapered flutes - how do you start a reamer in the hole if the flutes are not tapered? - Is it best to turn the reamer by hand to get the best accuracy, and if so, what type of reamer do I need to get, (most reamers I found online were defined as "high-speed" or "high-speed chucking")? - I checked the sources mentioned in earlier posts to the list, but I cannot find a 6.4mm reamer - I can find a .252" reamer, but that is a little larger than 6.4mm - does anyone know a source for this particular size? Thanks for your help, Dave Van Lanen Madison, WI 601XL Ser. # 6-6022 - tail done, wings on hold, starting fuselage


    Message 4


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    Time: 03:38:59 PM PST US
    From: "david van lanen" <davevanlanen@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: 601XL - Lower Elevator Cable Rear Fairlead Question
    I need some advice on installation of the lower elevator cable rear fairlead (6B24-1) to the front H.T. frame (6B1-1). Construction Guide 6-B-1 p. 5 instructs to install the fairing, then trace the outline of the lightening hole in the front H.T. frame onto the fairing and cut it out on this line. If I do this, it looks like the fairing will not provide a "stand-off" from the top of the lightening hole, which would result in the cable potentially rubbing against the top of the lightening hole. There are no other details provided in the plans regarding positioning of the fairlead. Do I need to provide some stand-off on this fairing, and if so, how much? Thanks, Dave Van Lanen Madison, WI 601XL - tail done, starting on fuselage


    Message 5


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    Time: 04:41:33 PM PST US
    From: Paul Mulwitz <psm@att.net>
    Subject: Re: 601XL - Lower Elevator Cable Rear Fairlead Question
    Hi Dave, You just have to hold your head the right way to figure this one out. Picture the line in space on the same plane as the "Web" of the part and then extend the cylinder of the inner circle of the lightening hole down to that plane. This is the place where you cut the fairlead. It will extend about 1/4 inch from the aluminum of the web out into space. If I remember correctly the bend in the cable at this point will easily clear the metal part of the lightening hole aluminum. Good luck, Paul XL grounded At 03:32 PM 6/11/2009, you wrote: >I need some advice on installation of the lower elevator cable rear >fairlead (6B24-1) to the front H.T. frame (6B1-1). Construction >Guide 6-B-1 p. 5 instructs to install the fairing, then trace the >outline of the lightening hole in the front H.T. frame onto the >fairing and cut it out on this line. If I do this, it looks like >the fairing will not provide a "stand-off" from the top of the >lightening hole, which would result in the cable potentially rubbing >against the top of the lightening hole. There are no other details >provided in the plans regarding positioning of the fairlead. Do I >need to provide some stand-off on this fairing, and if so, how much? > >Thanks, > >Dave Van Lanen > >Madison


    Message 6


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    Time: 05:21:53 PM PST US
    From: "Scott E Bevier" <ke4hrh@comcast.net>
    Subject: Questions On Reamers
    Dave, The 0.2520" chucking reamer sold by MSC or McMaster-Carr is close enough. The difference is < 0.0001" I ordered this one from McMaster-Carr. Part# 8803A482 High-Speed Steel Decimal Chucking Reamer .2520" Dia, 1-1/2" L Flute, 6" L O'all, 6 Flute. About $23.00. Chuck it in a cordless drill, slow speed, practice on some scrap material. It works fine. Scott Bevier




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