Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:57 AM - Re: Re: Cowling attachment, O200 (Floyd Wilkes)
2. 06:56 AM - Re: Re: Cowling attachment, O200 (Bill Pagan)
3. 10:12 AM - A little Help! Muffler -Heat Muff (Rich Simmons)
4. 11:04 AM - Re: A little Help! Muffler -Heat Muff (Paul Mulwitz)
5. 12:02 PM - Re: A little Help! Muffler -Heat Muff (Gig Giacona)
6. 04:08 PM - Re: A little Help! Muffler -Heat Muff (LarryMcFarland)
7. 07:37 PM - Re: XL rear spar (Ron Lendon)
8. 08:15 PM - Re: XL rear spar (BobTezyk)
9. 08:38 PM - Re: XL rear spar (Ron Lendon)
10. 11:09 PM - Re: Re: XL rear spar (Iberplanes IGL)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Cowling attachment, O200 |
Jim,
It is very easy to remove and install.
Floyd Wilkes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith601-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith601-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Belcher
Sent: Sunday, November 01, 2009 10:18 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Re: Cowling attachment, O200
I would agree it should be less expensive, and probably adequate
structurally.
But doesn't the bend in the piano wire in the hinge make it difficult to
remove?
On Sunday 01 November 2009 18:56, Floyd Wilkes wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> I used hinges to connect the bottom cowl to the fuselage. Pictures at
> http://picasaweb.google.com/floyd.wilkes/2008_02_07#
>
> I used nutplates and screws to attach the top cowl.
>
> I take off the top cowl then just pull the pin and the bottom is off.
> This method is used a lot by the RV folks.
>
> This is a fairly cheap way to do it.
============================================
Do not archive.
============================================
Jim B Belcher
BS, MS Physics, Math, Computer Science
A&P/IA
Retired aerospace technical manager
Mathematics and alcohol do not mix.
Do not drink and derive.
============================================
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Cowling attachment, O200 |
I also used the hinge and nutplate method on my RV.- It worked very well,
was inexpensive and only took a couple minutes to remove the whole cowl.
Bill Pagan
EAA Tech Counselor #4395
601XL QBK/Corvair/N565BW (RES)
--- On Sun, 11/1/09, Floyd Wilkes <fwilkes@gvtc.com> wrote:
From: Floyd Wilkes <fwilkes@gvtc.com>
Subject: RE: Zenith601-List: Re: Cowling attachment, O200
Jim,
I used hinges to connect the bottom cowl to the fuselage.- Pictures at
http://picasaweb.google.com/floyd.wilkes/2008_02_07#
I used nutplates and screws to attach the top cowl.
I take off the top cowl then just pull the pin and the bottom is off.
This method is used a lot by the RV folks.
This is a fairly cheap way to do it.
Floyd Wilkes
601XL O-200
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith601-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith601-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Belcher
Sent: Sunday, November 01, 2009 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith601-List: Re: Cowling attachment, O200
>
Thanks. I reviewed the relevant area of the video, and looked up the
fasteners
on the Internet. You're right on both counts: they look like they'd work
better, but it looks like enough to do the XL would cost $300-$400.
However, unless I come up with something like looks like it would work, tha
t
may be the only choice.
On Monday 26 October 2009 19:47, Sabrina wrote:
>
> I used 13 (7 top, 6 bottom) Camloc CM1 adjustable depth receptacles.- I
> made up my own brackets and mounted them to the firewall.- My cowling i
s
> mounted outside the sideskins.
>
> At 4 minutes into this video you can see the brackets:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZQfypsw8k4
>
> I am at school and do not have access to my plans or build photos.
>
> They are not cheap, but they hold much better than my attempts with Dzus
> fasteners.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269579#269579
>
>
--
===================
- - - - - - - - Do not archive.
===================
- - - - - - - - Jim B Belcher
- - BS, MS Physics, Math, Computer Science
- - - - - - - - - A&P/IA
- ---Retired aerospace technical manager
- ---Mathematics and alcohol do not mix.
- - - ---Do not drink and derive.
===================
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 3
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Subject: | A little Help! Muffler -Heat Muff |
Hey folks,
I would like to make my own heat muffs for carb heat and cabin heat.
Dimension are not much of an issue however, can someone tell me what thickness
Stainless steel I should use?
>From some reading I see it is 304 Stainless that is used and in some cases is
Aluminum. Does it matter?
Yes I am trying to save a buck, but want to make it only once.
Thanks,
Rich
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: A little Help! Muffler -Heat Muff |
Hi Rich,
I wouldn't use aluminum for this purpose. The exhaust gasses get
around 1400 degrees F, and if I remember correctly aluminum melts
around 1000 degrees F. You might wind up with a puddle of aluminum
in your engine compartment.
I don't have easy access to my airplane right now, but I would guess
the thickness of the muffs from the Jabiru FWF was around .020 or .025 inches.
Paul
XL awaiting engineering changes
At 10:11 AM 11/2/2009, you wrote:
>Hey folks,
>
>I would like to make my own heat muffs for carb heat and cabin heat.
>
>Dimension are not much of an issue however, can someone tell me what
>thickness Stainless steel I should use?
>
> From some reading I see it is 304 Stainless that is used and in
> some cases is Aluminum. Does it matter?
>
>
>Yes I am trying to save a buck, but want to make it only once.
>
>Thanks,
>Rich
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: A little Help! Muffler -Heat Muff |
psm(at)att.net wrote:
> Hi Rich,
>
> I wouldn't use aluminum for this purpose.
Somebody better tell Aircraft Spruce. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?query=heat+muff&search=1
CESSNA TYPE HEAT MUFF
Heli-arc welded aluminum muff with rustproof stainless steel fins for clamping
to stack.
HOMEBUILDER'S HEAT MUFFS
These superior quality heat muffs are made entirely of 6061 and 5052 aircraft grade
aluminum, offset from the center to clear the close cowling of most homebuilts.
--------
W.R. "Gig" Giacona
601XL Under Construction
See my progress at www.peoamerica.net/N601WR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270624#270624
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: A little Help! Muffler -Heat Muff |
Rich,
I assume you're talking heat-muffs averse mufflers here. For conveying
heat from the muffler to the cabin, aluminum is fine for a heat muff.
I used .025 and wrapped it to a hinge joint. If you're doing mufflers,
you need a .025 or better stainless as the temps recorded 3 inches or so
from the exhaust are near 1350 degrees. You'll probably make two sets
to get it exactly right, so don't scrimp on bought material.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Rich Simmons wrote:
>
> Hey folks,
>
> I would like to make my own heat muffs for carb heat and cabin heat.
>
> Dimension are not much of an issue however, can someone tell me what
> thickness Stainless steel I should use?
>
> From some reading I see it is 304 Stainless that is used and in some
> cases is Aluminum. Does it matter?
>
>
> Yes I am trying to save a buck, but want to make it only once.
>
> Thanks,
> Rich
>
>
> *
>
> *
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: XL rear spar |
I have attached a Microsoft Word document which shows a fix for this weak area.
It was created by an aerospace engineer. You might wanna give it a look.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Corvair Engine Prints:
http://home.comcast.net/~rlendon/site/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270665#270665
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/rearspar_843.doc
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: XL rear spar |
Ron,
For some reason, the pictures are not displaying for me in your Word document.
Could you see if you can post a PDF doucment?
--------
do not archive
Regards,
Bob Tezyk
N78QT - 601XL QB/ Jab3300
Working on the Wings
http://neo.datamatrix.com/eaglesnestestates/index.php?option=com_rsgallery2&Itemid=32&catid=23
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270670#270670
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: XL rear spar |
BobTezyk wrote:
> Ron,
>
> For some reason, the pictures are not displaying for me in your Word document.
Could you see if you can post a PDF doucment?
Done, find it on the forum.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Corvair Engine Prints:
http://home.comcast.net/~rlendon/site/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270674#270674
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: XL rear spar |
Hi Ron.
Pictures are missing. Post it as a PDF file. You can download a free PDF
converter from www.cutepdf.com
bye,
2009/11/3 Ron Lendon <rlendon@comcast.net>
>
> I have attached a Microsoft Word document which shows a fix for this weak
> area. It was created by an aerospace engineer. You might wanna give it a
> look.
>
> --------
> Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
> WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
> Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
> http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
> Corvair Engine Prints:
> http://home.comcast.net/~rlendon/site/<http://home.comcast.net/%7Erlendon/site/>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=270665#270665
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rearspar_843.doc
>
>
--
Alberto Martin
www.iberplanes.es
Igualada - Barcelona - Spain
----------------------------------------------
Zodiac 601 XL Builder
Serial: 6-7011
Tail Kit: Finished
Wings: Not Started
Fuselage: Started
Engine: Jabiru 3300
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