Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:52 AM - Re: Upgrade kit (DaveG601XL)
2. 07:05 AM - Upgrade Kit Rivet Removal (Bill Pagan)
3. 07:40 AM - Re: Upgrade Kit Rivet Removal (clmelenyzeriv@cs.com)
4. 08:18 AM - Re: Upgrade Kit Rivet Removal (DaveG601XL)
5. 01:24 PM - Re: Upgrade Kit Rivet Removal (mhubel)
6. 01:32 PM - Re: 601XL gear removal for seat modifications (mhubel)
7. 02:38 PM - Re: Upgrade kit (Sabrina)
8. 07:47 PM - Re: Upgrade kit (chris Sinfield)
9. 08:44 PM - Re: Upgrade Kit Rivet Removal (Ron Lendon)
Message 1
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The externally braced idea with an open cockpit gives me visions of a 2-place Bowers
Fly Baby.
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL/Jabiru 3300
First flight 7/24/08
116.5 hours and holding (incorporating upgrade)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282693#282693
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| Subject: | Upgrade Kit Rivet Removal |
Hey all,=0A-=0ANeed some advice on rivet removal.- On the spar solid ri
vets, I've drilled the heads of the rivets and used a chisel to pop the hea
ds off (just like in the videos).- I center drilled a relief hole 3/4 or
so through the rivet and-the 9 rivets outboard of rib #6 came out pretty
easily when I used my 3x rivet gun to drive them out.- However, the rivet
s inboard of rib #6 where the spar cap-doubles up I can't get the rivets
to budge.- I'm using a-3x rivet-gun at about 100psi. I actually bent
the punch I'm using in the rivet gun.- Any advice is greatly appreciated.
- I'm really good at busting stuff and want to be especially careful here
.=0A=0A-Bill Pagan-=0A=0A=0A
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| Subject: | Re: Upgrade Kit Rivet Removal |
Bill,
I have not started taking my wings apart yet, but I did my center spar.
An EAA friend suggested using a roller chain breaker. I bought one at Ha
rbor Freight for $10 tax included. I started just as you did by drilling
off the factory head and flushing the rivet stem to the flat bar stock.
I then removed the bottom receiver from the chain breaker, put the chain
breaker over the bar with the drive pin centered on the factory head side
, and turned the pin driver with a ratchet wrench easily pushing the rivet
through the chain breaker's receiving end.
In anticipating working on the wing spars I ground out about 2 millimeters
of the chain breaker throat because it needs to be deeper to span the 2
flat bars and web. I anticipate that I will have to trim the flange off
of the angle and work from the fuselage end to the tip.
It worked well without hammering. Just be careful to center the drive pin
on the rivet. I have ground the pin diameter down a little so that cente
ring does not have to be exact.
I can be reached at 423-667-3635 if I have not explained this clearly.
C. L. Melenyzer IV
601XL wings completed and working on 650XL fuselage while waiting on upgr
ade kit.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Pagan <bill.pagan@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thu, Jan 21, 2010 10:03 am
Subject: Zenith601-List: Upgrade Kit Rivet Removal
Hey all,
Need some advice on rivet removal. On the spar solid rivets, I've drilled
the heads of the rivets and used a chisel to pop the heads off (just like
in the videos). I center drilled a relief hole 3/4 or so through the riv
et and the 9 rivets outboard of rib #6 came out pretty easily when I used
my 3x rivet gun to drive them out. However, the rivets inboard of rib #6
where the spar cap doubles up I can't get the rivets to budge. I'm using
a 3x rivet gun at about 100psi. I actually bent the punch I'm using in th
e rivet gun. Any advice is greatly appreciated. I'm really good at busti
ng stuff and want to be especially careful here.
Bill Pagan
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Upgrade Kit Rivet Removal |
Bill,
Make sure you clamp tightly on each side of the rivet you are trying to remove.
The multiple layers of aluminum, if allowed to separate, will grip the rivet
firmly.
--------
David Gallagher
601 XL/Jabiru 3300
First flight 7/24/08
116.5 hours and holding (incorporating upgrade)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282726#282726
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Upgrade Kit Rivet Removal |
The chain breaker may work but one needs to relief the pressure of the rivet.
I drilled the -6 rivets out with a #20 (1/8 inch) drill almost all the way through.
I found that one has to at least have the drill tip go up to the "shop head".
I then used a 1/8 punch with a 2X air hammer set at a low pressure.
The few times the shop head came off, I was able to drive the whole remaining rivet
body out with a 3/16 punch.
Keeping all the pieces tight while doing this also helps and reduces the strain
on any one piece of metal.
--------
Mark Hubelbank
N708HU
CH601XL
Jabiru 3300
Rotec TBI 40 carb
Sensenich ground adj prop.
41 hr TAF
Pictures at photo.hubbles.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282782#282782
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL gear removal for seat modifications |
For what it is worth, we decided to remove the gear. I still had all the supports
that were used while the fuselage was being supported without the gear during
construction so it was less than an hour to take the gear off. Then perhaps
another hour to get all the additional rivets out that were in the way. While
this may be a break even in time, I think it will lead to a nicer job.
I also intend to put the center console back in in a manner that partial removal
is possible. I have never worked on a plane before where there was no nice way
to properly fasten wires that went through to the aft area. I think this will
be much more professional.
--------
Mark Hubelbank
N708HU
CH601XL
Jabiru 3300
Rotec TBI 40 carb
Sensenich ground adj prop.
41 hr TAF
Pictures at photo.hubbles.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282783#282783
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maybe I could test my flying motorcycle wing design by turning my fly baby into
a Bowers Bi-baby...
just kidding, but you are on point...
with strain gauges being so small and accurate, it would not be too hard to have
the Dynon display and record the forces on the external bracing...
the open cockpit would only be for the first few hours of new phase 1 testing...
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282789#282789
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Sabrina
back on the main Zenith site there are pictures of 601's without canopies and just
a small windshield. they also have the back luggage area blocked off so the
wind does not get in and peal it open.
So it has been done and it does fly..
Chris
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282837#282837
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Upgrade Kit Rivet Removal |
bill.pagan(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> [img]cid:1264086095309@dclient.mail.yahoo.com[/img]
> Hey all,
>
> Need some advice on rivet removal. On the spar solid rivets, I've drilled the
heads of the rivets and used a chisel to pop the heads off (just like in the
videos). I center drilled a relief hole 3/4 or so through the rivet and the
9 rivets outboard of rib #6 came out pretty easily when I used my 3x rivet gun
to drive them out. However, the rivets inboard of rib #6 where the spar cap
doubles up I can't get the rivets to budge. I'm using a 3x rivet gun at about
100psi. I actually bent the punch I'm using in the rivet gun. Any advice is
greatly appreciated. I'm really good at busting stuff and want to be especially
careful here.
>
>
>
> Bill Pagan
Bill,
What worked best for me was the Navy method. Center punch factory head, Pilot
drill 3/32 and keep it centered, #30 drill using tool to hold drill perpendicular
and control depth, Chisel off the head, use 1/8 pin punch and have helper
hold bucking bar flat next to the shop head and using hammer tap it out.
The top picture at this link shows the tool and depth used.
http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=780&category=0&log=94961&row=14
Here is a link that gave me some ideas:
http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Removing_Solid_Rivets
Hope that helps,
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Corvair Engine Prints:
http://home.comcast.net/~rlendon/site/
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=282841#282841
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