Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:04 AM - Master Cylinder (Bob Gibfried)
2. 04:34 AM - Re: Cabin fittings (Greg Wilson)
3. 05:07 AM - Re: Master Cylinder (Paul Mulwitz)
4. 06:11 AM - Re: Master Cylinder ()
5. 06:35 AM - Re: Cabin fittings (Carlos Sa)
6. 06:53 AM - Re: Cabin fittings (Jim Belcher)
7. 06:55 AM - Re: Cabin fittings (Ronald Steele)
8. 08:15 AM - Chat Reminder for "Digesters" (George Race)
9. 10:46 AM - Cabin Fittings - (Ted Taylor)
10. 04:46 PM - 51% List (Bill Pagan)
11. 07:13 PM - Re: 51% List (Deems Herring)
Message 1
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Still working on the master cylinders. Found one possible problem with
bleeding the brakes is that I have Cleveland brakes with the bleed valve on
the very bottom of the caliper. Don't believe filling from the master
cylinder down to the caliper expels all the air in the caliper.
Wanted to add a remote reservoir and looking at the master cylinder, there
is two outlets, one to the caliper and one for the bleed valve. If you
replace the bleed valve with an outlet to the remove reservoir what prevents
the fluid from going to the reservoir instead of the caliper? Don't see a
check valve in the Matco reservoir and there is nothing in the master
cylinder to prevent this..
Guess I don't understand brakes.
Bob, Wichita
Message 2
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I wanted a fabric so I got hold of an old corrugated plastic real estate
sign and cut peices to fit. I then used spray on contact adhesive to
attach the material to the plastic with 1 inch wrapping around to the back
surface on all sides.
The upholstered cards can then be either glued in place with contact
adhesive or attached to velcro strips stuck on to the inside panels of the
fuselage.
It gives a very professional finsih with little cost and minimal weight.
> Here is another idea. I used some extra 6061 to make the side panels.
> Then
> I glued Naugahyde to the aluminum. The panels are held on with Velcro for
> easy removal and tucked up under the upper longeron cap. Picture
> attached.
> Jeff Davidson
>
>
Message 3
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Hi Bob,
I may have an idea of your area of misunderstanding for your brake system.
It is common practice for auto mechanics (especially shade tree mechanics
like I used to be) to bleed brakes by filling from the top of the system and
letting the fluid flow out the wheel cylinders. Airplane practice is just
the opposite.
The normal way to fill airplane brakes is to pump the fluid from the bottom
of the system to the top. This can be done with any of a large choice of
low pressure pumps. I like using a hardware store oil can - the kind with a
pump handle. Others use plastic mustard bottles or similar devices. You
attach a short piece of flexible tubing to the pump and the nipple on the
wheel cylinder and pump fluid until it comes out the master cylinder
reservoir.
I have only seen this used with dual combined master cylinders - one for
each main gear wheel. This kind of system has the brake system for each
wheel isolated from the other wheel system. The devices installed on the
rudder pedals include a small reservoir on the top end along with the master
cylinder. They have only one fluid line connection. Slave cylinders - with
an input and output fluid line can be used for the other rudder pedal on
dual brake systems.
The final part used in some airplanes is a shutoff valve between the wheel
cylinders and master or slave cylinders. This cuts off flow and acts as a
parking brake.
It sounds like you are trying to install an automobile style brake system on
an airplane. I don't know if this will work out for you.
One other basic difference between airplane brakes and auto brakes is the
type of fluid used. Cars use brake fluid. Airplanes use red hydraulic
fluid. I don't know exactly why, but I understand it is a real problem to
try to use automobile brake fluid in an airplane. The brake systems just
aren't designed for that stuff.
Good luck,
Paul
XL - Installing upgrade kit.
Still working on the master cylinders. Found one possible problem with
bleeding the brakes is that I have Cleveland brakes with the bleed valve on
the very bottom of the caliper. Don't believe filling from the master
cylinder down to the caliper expels all the air in the caliper.
Wanted to add a remote reservoir and looking at the master cylinder, there
is two outlets, one to the caliper and one for the bleed valve. If you
replace the bleed valve with an outlet to the remove reservoir what prevents
the fluid from going to the reservoir instead of the caliper? Don't see a
check valve in the Matco reservoir and there is nothing in the master
cylinder to prevent this..
Guess I don't understand brakes.
Bob, Wichita
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Master Cylinder |
Fill from bottom up..takes care of filling and bleeding at same time..no air
!!
Jackie N5JZ
--- rfg842@cox.net wrote:
From: "Bob Gibfried" <rfg842@cox.net>
Subject: Zenith601-List: Master Cylinder
Still working on the master cylinders. Found one possible problem with
bleeding the brakes is that I have Cleveland brakes with the bleed valve on
the very bottom of the caliper. Don't believe filling from the master
cylinder down to the caliper expels all the air in the caliper.
Wanted to add a remote reservoir and looking at the master cylinder, there
is two outlets, one to the caliper and one for the bleed valve. If you
replace the bleed valve with an outlet to the remove reservoir what prevents
the fluid from going to the reservoir instead of the caliper? Don't see a
check valve in the Matco reservoir and there is nothing in the master
cylinder to prevent this..
Guess I don't understand brakes.
Bob, Wichita
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin fittings |
I thought about using corrugated plastic too, but I would prefer something
not flammable.
I believe I have seen pink rigid board of something that looks like
fiberglass, about 1 - 1.5 cm thick somewhere. (Inside a car or in the
aviation department of Home Depot?)
Did anyone use or consider this?
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
On 21 March 2010 07:33, Greg Wilson <gregw@aeromarket.com.au> wrote:
> gregw@aeromarket.com.au>
>
> I wanted a fabric so I got hold of an old corrugated plastic real estate
> sign and cut peices to fit. I then used spray on contact adhesive to
> attach the material to the plastic with 1 inch wrapping around to the back
> surface on all sides.
>
> The upholstered cards can then be either glued in place with contact
> adhesive or attached to velcro strips stuck on to the inside panels of the
> fuselage.
>
> It gives a very professional finsih with little cost and minimal weight.
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin fittings |
On Sunday 21 March 2010 08:34:37 you wrote:
> I thought about using corrugated plastic too, but I would prefer something
> not flammable.
> I believe I have seen pink rigid board of something that looks like
> fiberglass, about 1 - 1.5 cm thick somewhere. (Inside a car or in the
> aviation department of Home Depot?)
I suspect a lot of the corrugated plastic burns entirely too well. The stuff
one can get from Airtex meets the flame retardant requirements of the FARs,
although as an experimental, we obviously don't need to meet those unless we
care about burning up or something.
Another consideration is that the adhesive needs to be something that is non-
corrosive, and doesn't trap moisture. I'm sure there are many adhesives that
meet this requirement, but the one I know of for sure is the stuff Airtex
peddles.
No, I don't own stock in Airtex. Their stuff just has a good track record, and
its a known entity.
=======================================
Jim B. Belcher
BS,MS Physics
A&P/IA
General Radio Telephone Certificate
Instrument Rated Pilot
Retired Aerospace Technical Manager
Semi-proficient Househusband
=======================================
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin fittings |
I'm a long way from worrying about it, but anything going into my
plane, fabric, soundproofing, etc. will have a sample exposed to a
propane torch to test for flammability and, probably more important,
smoke production. It's my understanding that's roughly how fabrics and
foams are tested to be certified aircraft grade.
Ron
On Mar 21, 2010, at 9:34 AM, Carlos Sa wrote:
> I thought about using corrugated plastic too, but I would prefer
> something not flammable.
> I believe I have seen pink rigid board of something that looks like
> fiberglass, about 1 - 1.5 cm thick somewhere. (Inside a car or in
> the aviation department of Home Depot?)
>
> Did anyone use or consider this?
>
> Carlos
> CH601-HD, plans
>
> On 21 March 2010 07:33, Greg Wilson <gregw@aeromarket.com.au> wrote:
> >
>
> I wanted a fabric so I got hold of an old corrugated plastic real
> estate
> sign and cut peices to fit. I then used spray on contact adhesive to
> attach the material to the plastic with 1 inch wrapping around to
> the back
> surface on all sides.
>
> The upholstered cards can then be either glued in place with contact
> adhesive or attached to velcro strips stuck on to the inside panels
> of the
> fuselage.
>
> It gives a very professional finsih with little cost and minimal
> weight.
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Chat Reminder for "Digesters" |
Live Chat Room every Monday evening around 8:00 EDT
www.mykitairplane.com <blocked::http://www.mykitairplane.com/>
Click on the Chat Room link at the top of the page.
George
My Products: www.mykitairplane.com/Products/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Cabin Fittings - |
I've had less than a year of wear on what I did to my cabin, but I've been
very happy with the results and wouldn't change a thing. I used a closed
cell vinyl insulating material which does not absorb water or oil and meets
fire retardant qualities of FAR 25.853a Appendix F, Pt1. Comes in 1/8",
1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" thicknesses and glues on easily to any surface using 3M
adhesive. It's called super soundproofing and is available at Spruce. I
cut an installed the 3/4" on all interior surfaces, including the firewall,
and it fills in perfectly between the L-angles. I covered all of that with
a backless marine carpeting from West Marine, also using the 3M spray to
hold it. Anywhere it's come loose, I've just given it another little
squirt. It weighs almost nothing and easily conforms to bends. I have to
say my interior is quite plush, quiet, comfortable, and I'm very satisfied.
My weight penalty for all of this: 7 lbs.
[image: DSC02514.JPG]
Message 10
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Can-someone point me to a link-for-the-approved AB kits?=0A-Bill
Pagan =0A=0A=0A
Message 11
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http://www.faa.gov/aircraft/gen_av/ultralights/amateur_built/kit_listing/me
dia/amateur_built_kit_listing.pdf
Deems Herring
From: bill.pagan@yahoo.com
Subject: Zenith601-List: 51% List
Can someone point me to a link for the approved AB kits?
Bill Pagan
_________________________________________________________________
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