Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:03 AM - Re: upgrade question (Paul Mulwitz)
2. 12:08 AM - Re: upgrade question (Terry Phillips)
3. 10:25 AM - Re: upgrade question (Brady)
4. 12:49 PM - Re: upgrade question (Ron Lendon)
5. 06:14 PM - Pushrods (BobbyPaulk@comcast.net)
6. 10:28 PM - Re: Re: upgrade question (JohnDRead@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | upgrade question |
Hi Lee,
Reamers do indeed come in a lot of different forms. For this kind of work, I prefer
hand reamers. They tend to be several inches longer than other kinds and
mount in tap holders. I selected "Left hand spiral, Right Hand cut" for my
Zodiac XL spar work, but other choices would probably work about the same.
What you probably don't want is "Chucking Reamer" types. These are meant for milling
machines and fancier "Machining Centers" where the machine provides the
stability rather than the shape of the reamer.
I like to drill 10 or 20 thousandths undersize before reaming a hole in aluminum.
There are many "Cutting Tool" vendors that all supply good stuff. Travers tool
is a good one on the East coast, MSC works well in most parts of the USA.
I don't know which holes should be reamed, so I'll let someone else address that
question. I personally think this is a big issue when a wing is attached to
the fuselage with one bolt, but when there are six of them I doubt the perfection
of the hole is a big deal.
Paul
XL installing upgrade (slowly)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith601-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith601-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lee Steensland
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 2010 8:04 PM
Subject: Zenith601-List: upgrade question
Who knew you had to be a machinist to install the upgrade!
I'm learning about all sorts of new things: transfer punches, reamers,
solid rivets.
The plans state that the main spar attach bolt holes in the center spar
should be drilled undersized then reamed to the proper diameter (5/16).
To me that appears to be a pretty open ended statement. If you google
"reamer" you get many and varied hits for all different kinds of
reamers. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what kind of reamer we
should use and where to get one?
Should we also ream the bolt holes for 6-ZU-2-4?
What have other people done?
Thanks!
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
Hi Lee
I am definitely not a machinist, but I can tell you what I am doing, though
I am still in the early stages. Most of what I've learned about reamers was
by buying the wrong thing at $18/ea.
I think the best ones are the "piloted reamers," e.g.,
http://browntool.com/Default.aspx?tabid=255&txtSearch=reamer&List=1&SortField=ProductName%2cProductNumber&catpageindex=2&ProductID=1010
which has a short pilot of 0.2969" dia. to fit in your sub-5/16" pilot
hole, followed by a section of 0.3125", to ream the hole precisely to
5/16". That assumes that you hold your drill perfectly normal to the
spar---or are using a good drill press. There are (slightly) cheaper
reamers that are not piloted.
I don't trust my hand drill skills, so I think I'll bolt my drill press to
my work table for the reaming.
I'm also using reamers for the bolt joints through the 1/8" spar cap, spar
cap doubler, web, and spar root doubler plate. I'm using AN4's rather than
AN3's, because the holes in my spar cap and my spar cap doubler are
substantially larger than 0.1875" . I bought a .247 x .231 HSS Piloted
Chucking Reamer for those holes (my AN4's measure about 0.245").
Good call on the 6-ZU-2-4 bolts. You're way ahead of me. I believe that the
bolts in the main spar are loaded primarily in shear (so a tight bolt hole
is critical to avoid stress concentrations, which can lead to fatigue
failure). I suspect the center spar bolt are in tension between the bolted
spar caps, but in shear between the spar caps and the spar uprights. In any
case, I do not believe that a tight bolt hole hurts (assuming that holes
line up in the different layers), so I'll plan to use my .247 x .231 AN4-
piloted reamer for those holes also. 'Good idea.
Terry
At 08:03 PM 5/18/2010 -0700, Lee Steensland wrote:
>Who knew you had to be a machinist to install the upgrade!
>
>I'm learning about all sorts of new things: transfer punches, reamers,
>solid rivets.
>
>The plans state that the main spar attach bolt holes in the center spar
>should be drilled undersized then reamed to the proper diameter (5/16).
>To me that appears to be a pretty open ended statement. If you google
>"reamer" you get many and varied hits for all different kinds of
>reamers. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what kind of reamer we
>should use and where to get one?
>
>Should we also ream the bolt holes for 6-ZU-2-4?
>
>What have other people done?
>
>Thanks!
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
ZU-601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps are done;
Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
Lee,
The reamer you want to use is called a chucking reamer.
It has straight flutes and can be turned by hand or by a drill motor.
I suggest you turn it by hand.
A piloted reamer is handy but not totally necessary.
5/16 is .3125
The upgrade instructions specify the tolerance to be +.004
This means you holes cannot be larger than .3165or you will need to go to an over
sized bolt that is less than 3/8th.
these are very expensive.
The reamer size you want is .3125"
It is not necessary to ream the bolts in the main spar.
These bolts are not in shear really, they are mostly in tension.
as the spar is stressed the caps want to separate or bend away from each other.
this would allow them to collapse.
The bolt (&or rivets) hold them together and force them to flex in the correct
direction which is edge wise.
Clear as mud?
I hope this helps,
Brady
--------
Brady McCormick
Poulsbo, WA
www.magnificentmachine.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=298202#298202
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
Lee,
Brady and I are machinists, here is a picture of how I keep things square when
I can't use a machine. It's a vee block, not show is my hand holding it in place
while I use the reamer and cutting oil everywhere.
http://mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=rlendon&project=113&category=0&log=24457&row=671
I used this method on one upgrade and the fit was good on all the holes.
YMMV
Practice, practice, practice, and oh yeah, practice.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=298213#298213
Message 5
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List
I am changing over to pushrods on the ailerons of my 601 during the upgrade. I
am planning on using 1 1/8" O.D. x .039 6061 - T6 tubing in one piece. The overall
length from center to center of the Heim bearings is 96".the same tube is
used on several RV's. The RV-4 is ~ 66" Has anyone out there installed one piece
pushrods and what size tubing was used. The above tube is plenty strong but
I am concerned about vibration and harmonics on such a long tube. i would appreciate
it if someone could e-mail a description or photos of their installation
and how many hours they have flown.
Thanks for any help
Bobby
Florida
601 XL 96 hrs before upgrade.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
Brady;
I would not use a chucking reamer by hand the straight flutes
are designed to be driven by a machine tool such as a milling machine or
a
lathe. Reaming by hand is best done with a hand reamer which has spiral
flutes and a taper to the diameter for a short distance.
Regards, John
CH701 - Colorado - Jabiru 3300
Cell: 719-494-4567
Home: 303-648-3261
In a message dated 5/19/2010 11:26:28 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time,
brady@magnificentmachine.com writes:
--> Zenith601-List message posted by: "Brady"
<brady@magnificentmachine.com>
Lee,
The reamer you want to use is called a chucking reamer.
It has straight flutes and can be turned by hand or by a drill motor.
I suggest you turn it by hand.
A piloted reamer is handy but not totally necessary.
5/16=C3=A2=82=AC=C2=9D is .3125=C3=A2=82=AC=C2=9D
The upgrade instructions specify the tolerance to be +.004=C3=A2=82=AC
=C2=9D
This means you holes cannot be larger than .3165=C3=A2=82=AC=C2=9Dor
you will need to go
to an over sized bolt that is less than 3/8th.
these are very expensive.
The reamer size you want is .3125"
It is not necessary to ream the bolts in the main spar.
These bolts are not in shear really, they are mostly in tension.
as the spar is stressed the caps want to separate or bend away from each
other. this would allow them to collapse.
The bolt (&or rivets) hold them together and force them to flex in the
correct direction which is edge wise.
Clear as mud?
I hope this helps,
Brady
--------
Brady McCormick
Poulsbo, WA
www.magnificentmachine.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=298202#298202
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