Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:22 AM - Re: Pushrods (Bill Steer)
2. 05:24 AM - Re: Re: upgrade question (Mark Hubelbank)
3. 05:33 AM - Re: Pushrods (Peter W Johnson)
4. 09:25 AM - Re: Re: upgrade question (Lee Steensland)
5. 10:57 AM - Re: upgrade question (Brady)
6. 11:23 AM - Re: Re: upgrade question (Terry Phillips)
7. 11:39 AM - Re: upgrade question (Ron Lendon)
8. 11:41 AM - Re: upgrade question (Brady)
9. 02:32 PM - Re: Re: upgrade question (Terry Phillips)
10. 08:57 PM - Re: upgrade question (chuck960)
Message 1
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Well, the harmonic frequency of a beam like this is inversely
proportional to the length squared, so your harmonic frequencies will be
about 47% of that of the pushrod in the RV-4, assuming you use the same
size tubing. Let me know if you want to know the exact frequencies.
Bill
On 5/19/2010 9:11 PM, BobbyPaulk@comcast.net wrote:
> List
> I am changing over to pushrods on the ailerons of my 601 during the
> upgrade. I am planning on using 1 1/8" O.D. x .039 6061 - T6 tubing in
> one piece. The overall length from center to center of the Heim
> bearings is 96".the same tube is used on several RV's. The RV-4 is ~
> 66" Has anyone out there installed one piece pushrods and what size
> tubing was used. The above tube is plenty strong but I am concerned
> about vibration and harmonics on such a long tube. i would appreciate
> it if someone could e-mail a description or photos of their
> installation and how many hours they have flown.
>
> Thanks for any help
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
John,
On the issue of a chucking reamer, I did use one by hand. I don't
recommend it for everyone. By using the existing hole as an alignment
guide and then having the hole in the new metal only 0.015 under size,
it was very easy to get a clean hole. The clear issue is that one must
not put any side pressure on the existing hole. That is a matter of
practice. Even a hand reamer can take some metal off the existing hole
if one is not careful so there is no perfect solution short of standing
the wing on edge and mounting a "mini" drill press on the spar to ream
out the holes.
Even better would be to have a special reamer that only had cutting
flukes for the first 1/8 inch and then was smooth but the same diameter.
I have never heard of such a tool.
--
Mark Hubelbank
NorthEast Monitoring
2 Clock Tower Place
Suite 555
Maynard, MA, 01754 - USA
mhubel@nemon.com
978-443-3955
Message 3
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Bobby,
I basically copied Bill Phillip=99s documentation using the same
Vans rod ends and 1 1/8=9D tubing.
I have now 8 hours on the plane and all is working well. I have flown a
601 with cables and haven=99t noticed any great difference between
the two.
You can download a copy of Bill=99s documentation from here
http://forums.matronics.com/download.php?id=14337
<http://forums.matronics.com/download.php?id=14337&sid=5070ea75d7ac33
d8a0d772db8f98561b> &sid=5070ea75d7ac33d8a0d772db8f98561b
I left the balance cable in situ to provide some equalising forces on
the aileron bell crank. Might be a bit of an overkill. I have it
tensioned to 30lbs (Zenith spec) but may be a bit much. I think if I
decreased it a little the aileron feel would be a little lighter.
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
http://zodiac.cpc-world.com
From: owner-zenith601-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith601-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BobbyPaulk@comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, 20 May 2010 11:12 AM
Subject: Zenith601-List: Pushrods
List
I am changing over to pushrods on the ailerons of my 601 during the
upgrade. I am planning on using 1 1/8" O.D. x .039 6061 - T6 tubing in
one piece. The overall length from center to center of the Heim bearings
is 96".the same tube is used on several RV's. The RV-4 is ~ 66" Has
anyone out there installed one piece pushrods and what size tubing was
used. The above tube is plenty strong but I am concerned about vibration
and harmonics on such a long tube. i would appreciate it if someone
could e-mail a description or photos of their installation and how many
hours they have flown.
Thanks for any help
Bobby
Florida
601 XL 96 hrs before upgrade.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
Fortunately I'm in a fairly unique situation. I don't have the center
spar installed nor the wings complete. Everything is free and away from
the plane, so setting it up in a drill press is child's play (for the
most part).
On Thu, 2010-05-20 at 08:23 -0400, Mark Hubelbank wrote:
>
> John,
> On the issue of a chucking reamer, I did use one by hand. I don't
> recommend it for everyone. By using the existing hole as an alignment
> guide and then having the hole in the new metal only 0.015 under size,
> it was very easy to get a clean hole. The clear issue is that one must
> not put any side pressure on the existing hole. That is a matter of
> practice. Even a hand reamer can take some metal off the existing hole
> if one is not careful so there is no perfect solution short of standing
> the wing on edge and mounting a "mini" drill press on the spar to ream
> out the holes.
> Even better would be to have a special reamer that only had cutting
> flukes for the first 1/8 inch and then was smooth but the same diameter.
> I have never heard of such a tool.
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
JohnDRead(at)aol.com wrote:
> Brady;
> I would not use a chucking reamer by hand the straight flutes are
designed to be driven by a machine tool such as a milling machine or a lathe.
Reaming by hand is best done with a hand reamer which has spiral flutes and
a taper to the diameter for a short distance.
>
> Regards, John
>
>
>
John,
Actually that is not true, and I don't think the Reamer can tell who or what is
turning it.
Page 807 of the Machinery's Hand Book 26th edition says:
"Hand reamers are made with both straight and helical flutes. Helical flutes provide
a shearing cut and are especially useful in reaming holes having keyways
or grooves, as these are bridged over by the helical flutes, thus preventing
binding or chattering."
Because the hole we are reaming do not have a keyway or grooves (intentionally)
a spiral reamer is not necessary.
But every situation is different and everyone's skill level may vary.
I would expect builders to use their noggin.
My advice was free and general.
take it or leave it as you may.
--------
Brady McCormick
Poulsbo, WA
www.magnificentmachine.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=298343#298343
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
Brady or John
Assuming that one wanted to turn a chucking reamer by hand, what would you
use as an handle? My reamers have round shafts whose diameter is a bit
smaller than the reamer size.
Terry
At 10:56 AM 5/20/2010 -0700, you wrote:
>JohnDRead(at)aol.com wrote:
> > Brady;
> > I would not use a chucking reamer by hand the straight
> flutes are designed to be driven by a machine tool such as a milling
> machine or a lathe. Reaming by hand is best done with a hand reamer
> which has spiral flutes and a taper to the diameter for a short distance.
> >
> > Regards, John
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>John,
>Actually that is not true, and I don't think the Reamer can tell who or
>what is turning it.
>
>Page 807 of the Machinery's Hand Book 26th edition says:
>"Hand reamers are made with both straight and helical flutes. Helical
>flutes provide a shearing cut and are especially useful in reaming holes
>having keyways or grooves, as these are bridged over by the helical
>flutes, thus preventing binding or chattering."
>
>Because the hole we are reaming do not have a keyway or grooves
>(intentionally) a spiral reamer is not necessary.
>
>But every situation is different and everyone's skill level may vary.
>I would expect builders to use their noggin.
>
>My advice was free and general.
>take it or leave it as you may.
>
>--------
>Brady McCormick
>Poulsbo, WA
>www.magnificentmachine.com
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
ZU-601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps are done;
Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
Terry Phillips wrote:
> Brady or John
>
> Assuming that one wanted to turn a chucking reamer by hand, what would you
> use as an handle? My reamers have round shafts whose diameter is a bit
> smaller than the reamer size.
>
> Terry
>
>
>
Terry,
I used a tap handle like the one in the bottom of the picture.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_wrench
Turned the reamer counterclockwise through existing hole till it met the new hole.
Then I turned it clockwise to finish the new hole. The new hole was .015
small before reaming.
--------
Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=298348#298348
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
Terry Phillips wrote:
> Brady or John
>
> Assuming that one wanted to turn a chucking reamer by hand, what would you
> use as an handle? My reamers have round shafts whose diameter is a bit
> smaller than the reamer size.
>
> Terry
>
>
Terry,
You can grind 4 flats on it and turn it with a tap handle.
After you modify it will still be usable as in a chuck.
most of mine are modified this way.
--------
Brady McCormick
Poulsbo, WA
www.magnificentmachine.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=298350#298350
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
Thank you Brady & Ron.
Between your two posts I think I get the idea. The link to wikipedia which
had links to reamer articles was especially helpful.
Terry
At 11:40 AM 5/20/2010 -0700, Brady wrote:
>
>
>Terry Phillips wrote:
> > Brady or John
> >
> > Assuming that one wanted to turn a chucking reamer by hand, what would you
> > use as an handle? My reamers have round shafts whose diameter is a bit
> > smaller than the reamer size.
> >
> > Terry
> >
> >
>
>
>Terry,
>
>You can grind 4 flats on it and turn it with a tap handle.
>After you modify it will still be usable as in a chuck.
>
>most of mine are modified this way.
>
>--------
>Brady McCormick
>Poulsbo, WA
>www.magnificentmachine.com
At 11:39 AM 5/20/2010 -0700, Ron wrote:
>
>
>Terry Phillips wrote:
> > Brady or John
> >
> > Assuming that one wanted to turn a chucking reamer by hand, what would you
> > use as an handle? My reamers have round shafts whose diameter is a bit
> > smaller than the reamer size.
> >
> > Terry
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>Terry,
>
>I used a tap handle like the one in the bottom of the picture.
>
>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_wrench
>
>Turned the reamer counterclockwise through existing hole till it met the
>new hole. Then I turned it clockwise to finish the new hole. The new
>hole was .015 small before reaming.
>
>--------
>Ron Lendon, Clinton Township, MI
>WW Corvair with Roy's Garage 5th bearing
>Zodiac XL, ScrapBuilder ;-)
>http://www.mykitlog.com/rlendon
do not archive
Terry Phillips
ttp44~at~rkymtn.net
Corvallis MT
ZU-601XL/Jab 3300 s .. l .. o .. o .. w build kit - Tail & flaps are done;
Upgrading wings & ailerons per the AMD Safety Directive
http://www.mykitlog.com/N47TP/
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: upgrade question |
Why do the bolts have to be smaller than 3/8"? Is it edge distance that is the
problem? With all the drilling and back drilling it's hard to get a perfect hole.
The bolt may seem tight but the hole might not be uniform through many layers
of material. I thought of drilling a larger hole after all the 5/16 bolts
are in place by removing one bolt at a time. A 3/8 bolt is much stronger than
5/16.
Chuck
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=298400#298400
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