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1. 02:43 PM - Re: Re: 601XL fiberglass wingroot fairings (Bill Naumuk)
2. 05:55 PM - Re: Re: 601XL fiberglass wingroot fairings (Mark Hubelbank)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL fiberglass wingroot fairings |
Louis-
Kudos for a very good description of the process.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Louie928" <louieo@gorge.net>
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 8:21 PM
Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: 601XL fiberglass wingroot fairings
>
> I'm fabricating top and bottom fairings for my 601 XL. The airplane isn't
> finished yet, but from an aerodynamic point, it is evident that the
> fairings should help quite a bit. It doesn't take a huge amount of
> specialized skill, but does take more time than I expected. I fastened 1"
> thick foam sheets (the foam that the QB kit was packed in) to the airframe
> with double sided tape. That type foam isn't the best for forms because it
> isn't very dense, but it was available and I had no other use for it.
> Additional sheets were stuck to existing sheets with double sided tape or
> small dabs of epoxy adhesive. The foam was shaped with Stanley Sureform
> files, sandpaper, hot wire foam cutter, electric chainsaw, etc.
> Irregularities, and gaps, were filled with modeling clay. Then, I coated
> the foam with epoxy for stiffness. After that was cured, I covered it with
> duct tape and made sure the duct tape was extended a few inches outside of
> the fairing area so no epoxy would get on the skin. E!
> poxy doesn't stick to duct tape, but some mold release on the tape helps
> with de-molding. Mold release can be paste wax, or even spray on cooking
> oil, or Pledge furniture wax.
>
> Cut the glass or carbon fiber cloth to shape leaving plenty of excess on
> the edges. I put a coat of resin on the form using a small roller or
> brush. Lay the cloth over the form and work the cloth into the epoxy on
> the surface. Use more epoxy if you have to for wet through, but not too
> much. If you use a brush, cut off about 1/3rd of the length of the
> bristles so they are stiffer. Push the cloth into the epoxy with short
> vertical jabs called "stippling". There shouldn't be so much resin that it
> puddles, and the weave should show. I used three three layers of 6 oz/sq
> yd carbon fiber twill cloth. Glass cloth is less expensive, but heavier
> and not as stiff. It's likely you can't make the layup in one piece as it
> gets quite unwieldy. Overlap the separate pieces by about 1 1/2". Leave
> the layup on the mold until the epoxy has fully cured. This might be a
> couple of days. De-mold by starting on an edge by working a putty knife
> under and edge and getting it lifted. At first it will a!
> ppear to come off with difficulty, but after some has broken loose, it's
> likely the part will fall off. Making a part from a male mold as I've
> described will leave a somewhat uneven and rough surface. Depending how
> you want to finish the fairing will determine how it's made smooth. If
> painting, use a lightweight filler made from epoxy and microballoons
> (glass beads). You could use lightweight polyester body filler too. Then
> sand and paint. I made mine from carbon fiber cloth and intend to leave it
> natural. I painted on another coat of epoxy to fill the weave and sanded
> most of that off. Another coat of epoxy and more sanding using finer grit.
> I'll finish with urethane automotive paint clear coats for UV protection
> with sanding between coats.
>
> Polyester resin could be used instead of epoxy. Epoxy doesn't shrink like
> polyester does, and epoxy is a much better adhesive than polyester. I used
> epoxy that is good to over well over 200 deg F since the top fairings will
> be out in the sun. I used epoxy system 2000 from Fiberglast.
> http://www.fibreglast.com/ They have hardeners in 20 min, 60 min, and 120
> min setting time. Epoxy resins are available from other sources that will
> work too.
>
> --------
> Louis W. Ott
>
> 601XL beginner Quick Build
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312343#312343
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wing_fairing_layup2_166.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wing_fairing_layup1_149.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wing_fillet_21_176.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rightwingtopfairing3_187.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rightwingtopfairing2_275.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rightwingfairingform2_185.jpg
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 601XL fiberglass wingroot fairings |
Louis,
Did you ever think of making a blow molded plastic part instead?
Given that this is not structural, that might be a way someone could
make these in some small quantity if the group is interested.
On 09/14/2010 5:39 PM, Bill Naumuk wrote:
> <naumuk@windstream.net>
>
> Louis-
> Kudos for a very good description of the process.
>
> Bill
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Louie928" <louieo@gorge.net>
> To: <zenith601-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 8:21 PM
> Subject: Zenith601-List: Re: 601XL fiberglass wingroot fairings
>
>
>>
>> I'm fabricating top and bottom fairings for my 601 XL. The airplane
>> isn't finished yet, but from an aerodynamic point, it is evident that
>> the fairings should help quite a bit. It doesn't take a huge amount
>> of specialized skill, but does take more time than I expected. I
>> fastened 1" thick foam sheets (the foam that the QB kit was packed
>> in) to the airframe with double sided tape. That type foam isn't the
>> best for forms because it isn't very dense, but it was available and
>> I had no other use for it. Additional sheets were stuck to existing
>> sheets with double sided tape or small dabs of epoxy adhesive. The
>> foam was shaped with Stanley Sureform files, sandpaper, hot wire foam
>> cutter, electric chainsaw, etc. Irregularities, and gaps, were filled
>> with modeling clay. Then, I coated the foam with epoxy for stiffness.
>> After that was cured, I covered it with duct tape and made sure the
>> duct tape was extended a few inches outside of the fairing area so no
>> epoxy would get on the skin. E!
>> poxy doesn't stick to duct tape, but some mold release on the tape
>> helps with de-molding. Mold release can be paste wax, or even spray
>> on cooking oil, or Pledge furniture wax.
>>
>> Cut the glass or carbon fiber cloth to shape leaving plenty of excess
>> on the edges. I put a coat of resin on the form using a small roller
>> or brush. Lay the cloth over the form and work the cloth into the
>> epoxy on the surface. Use more epoxy if you have to for wet through,
>> but not too much. If you use a brush, cut off about 1/3rd of the
>> length of the bristles so they are stiffer. Push the cloth into the
>> epoxy with short vertical jabs called "stippling". There shouldn't be
>> so much resin that it puddles, and the weave should show. I used
>> three three layers of 6 oz/sq yd carbon fiber twill cloth. Glass
>> cloth is less expensive, but heavier and not as stiff. It's likely
>> you can't make the layup in one piece as it gets quite unwieldy.
>> Overlap the separate pieces by about 1 1/2". Leave the layup on the
>> mold until the epoxy has fully cured. This might be a couple of days.
>> De-mold by starting on an edge by working a putty knife under and
>> edge and getting it lifted. At first it will a!
>> ppear to come off with difficulty, but after some has broken loose,
>> it's likely the part will fall off. Making a part from a male mold as
>> I've described will leave a somewhat uneven and rough surface.
>> Depending how you want to finish the fairing will determine how it's
>> made smooth. If painting, use a lightweight filler made from epoxy
>> and microballoons (glass beads). You could use lightweight polyester
>> body filler too. Then sand and paint. I made mine from carbon fiber
>> cloth and intend to leave it natural. I painted on another coat of
>> epoxy to fill the weave and sanded most of that off. Another coat of
>> epoxy and more sanding using finer grit. I'll finish with urethane
>> automotive paint clear coats for UV protection with sanding between
>> coats.
>>
>> Polyester resin could be used instead of epoxy. Epoxy doesn't shrink
>> like polyester does, and epoxy is a much better adhesive than
>> polyester. I used epoxy that is good to over well over 200 deg F
>> since the top fairings will be out in the sun. I used epoxy system
>> 2000 from Fiberglast. http://www.fibreglast.com/ They have hardeners
>> in 20 min, 60 min, and 120 min setting time. Epoxy resins are
>> available from other sources that will work too.
>>
>> --------
>> Louis W. Ott
>>
>> 601XL beginner Quick Build
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=312343#312343
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Attachments:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wing_fairing_layup2_166.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wing_fairing_layup1_149.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/right_wing_fillet_21_176.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rightwingtopfairing3_187.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rightwingtopfairing2_275.jpg
>> http://forums.matronics.com//files/rightwingfairingform2_185.jpg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
Mark Hubelbank
NorthEast Monitoring
2 Clock Tower Place
Suite 555
Maynard, MA, 01754 - USA
mhubel@nemon.com
978-443-3955
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