Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:57 AM - Re: Work table fix. (kmccune)
2. 05:07 AM - Re: Work table fix. (John Short)
3. 05:12 AM - Re: Need recommendations for work table height (Tommy Walker)
4. 06:43 AM - Re: Work table fix. (Art Gibeaut)
5. 07:06 AM - Re: Need recommendations for work table height (n85ae)
6. 07:14 AM - Zenair Newsletter Calendar request (Jon Croke)
7. 07:27 AM - Re: Zenair Newsletter Calendar request (MacDonald Doug)
8. 07:44 AM - Re: Re: Need recommendations for work table height (Randall J. Hebert)
9. 07:49 AM - Re: Work table fix. (n85ae)
10. 08:29 AM - Re: Need recommendations for work table height (n85ae)
11. 09:24 AM - Re: Need recommendations for work table height (Jim McBurney)
12. 09:24 AM - Re: Re: Work table fix. (raymondj)
13. 10:01 AM - For Sale - RMI uMonitor - NEW - All Probes and Upgrades! (Matt Dralle)
14. 10:14 AM - Re: Zenair Newsletter Calendar request (rbjjr)
15. 10:34 AM - Re: Re: Zenair Newsletter Calendar request (Jon Croke)
16. 10:56 AM - For Sale - Skyforce Skymap IIIC - NEW - Latest Database (Matt Dralle)
17. 02:57 PM - For Sale - RMI uEncoder - NEW - Assembled (Matt Dralle)
18. 06:53 PM - 701 for Sale (Dan)
19. 09:31 PM - Tuck shrinking (dbinokc)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Work table fix. |
Hi Raymond,
This would give you a flat surface if you mixed it a little extra wet and had very
straight sides to screed the mixture. But remember that you need to be able
to drill into the surface. Level is still up to how well you level it. I still
can't see a reason for level though other then generally speaking .
Kettle river is just down the road from me. We are getting a pretty good showing
in our area of 701 builders. I wish there were more flying 701s though.
do not archive
Kevin
--------
Mark Twain: Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182121#182121
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Work table fix. |
I tried this very approach with unusable results. I used self leveling floor
prep for laying tile over the top of the plywood. would have worked fine I
think had I sealed the plywood prior to using the water based leveler. As a
result the water based material warped the plywood and made a huge mess of
things.
I do feel with the proper prep this technique could produce a very fine/flat
table.
John (Scratch building 701)
Kaufman, Tx
----- Original Message -----
From: "raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 11:10 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: Work table fix.
> <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
>
> Greetings all,
>
> THE FOLLOWING IS SPECULATION AND HAS NOT BEEN TRIED.
>
> I am considering building my construction table with solid foundation
> and top, then a layer of self-leveling compound, and then gluing the final
> top on to the dried compound. I think that will give me a level and flat
> surface.
>
> I think this technique could also be used to modify existing tables
> which are out of line.
>
> Raymond Julian
> Kettle River, MN
>
> "Hope for the best,
> but prepare for the worst."
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Hursh" <skyridersbn@yahoo.com>
> To: <zenith701801-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 10:01 PM
> Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: Need recommendations for work table height
>
>
>> Terry Phillips <ttp44@rkymtn.net> wrote: --> Zenith701801-List message
>> posted by: Terry Phillips
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> I built mine at 31.5" (from the high end of the sloping garage floor) and
>> that works fine for me, at least up to wings. But I would second what Ben
>> said about making it flat and level. I was in a hurry and got the
>> straightest 2x6x12's I could find at the local Lowes, because engineered
>> beams were special order out here in western Mont. The 2x6's weren't
>> straight enough--the table is probably 3/8" (9-mm) low at one end. I've
>> been paying for my lack of patience ever since.
>>
>> Older and wiser.
>>
>> Terry
>>
>>
>> Terry and Bob,
>>
>> All is not lost if you should decide to try to get the table more level.
>> If you can, remove the plywood or OSB from the top. Take a taunt string
>> on each 2 X 6 one at a time and find all the high spots. Remove those
>> high spots with a wood plane. Keep checking the straightness with your
>> tight string as you work the high spots down. Run the string opposite
>> corners to see if if you are level across at the "X" or dead center. If
>> the string just touches in the center board as it touches each corner,
>> you should be more level than you are right now. Once you get the 2 x
>> 6's level, reattach the top and then go for the level of the entire
>> table. Most all garage floors have a certain amount of tip to them, to
>> allow water to run off your vehicle and out the garage door. Put shims
>> under the table as needed to get the entire table level all around. At
>> this point, some people literally anchor the entire table and shims to
>> the garage floor using adhesive. I think you will find
>> a vast improvement on how you next kit turns out for you. I wouldn't
>> want to keep fighting it or "paying the high price" with a wing that has
>> twist in it or worse yet, is warped and not straight. You could be
>> setting yourself up for a bigger problem later on. We don't need to read
>> about another pilot going down.
>>
>> If anyone has a better way of helping these gentleman out than what I
>> suggested, PLEASE jump in here and comment! Even I can stand to learn a
>> better way of doing this!
>>
>> Regards and happy building!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Larry Hursh
>> CH601XL (Building from Kits - Just beginning)
>> (N601LL Reserved)
>> SkyriderSBN@Yahoo.com
>>
>> Keep your eyes skyward - always!
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try
>> it now.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> Checked by AVG.
> 5:23 PM
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Need recommendations for work table height |
Bob,
We just finished building our second work table. Height is 39 inches, which
is a good work height for me. It is build with 2x6 #2 Spruce, as straight
as they had in the lumber yard, with 6 ea. 4.x4 posts. We will put a 5x12
MDF top on it and trim it to 4x12. We will use the underneath side for
storage of skins, etc.
I think the important point is to make it rigid and to keep it FLAT. I use
strings stretched from opposite corners to insure that it's flat when I'm
working on the different components.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Tommy Walker in Alabama
N8701 50+ HRS.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Work table fix. |
Here lies the true value of this site. Someone asks a legitimate question, and
he will get several very legitimate options to choose from. It helped me immensely
when I started a little over a year ago.
So, here's my solution--I found a listing from a guy on this site that was equally
concerned about flatness of lumber, so he ripped 3/4" OSB into 3.5" strips,
glued them together to make 2x4's, and then constructed tha table from them.
I did the same thing and I have to say he was right. If you cut carefully, that
stuff is dead straight. It sounds like a lot of work but if you have a good
table saw and a place to layout the glued pcs. waiting for drying, it really
makes a good solid table. My wings are very straight.
I built two 4'x6' tables and then screwed them together so I can separate and use
them individually as workbenches after the wings, and fuselge are done. Mine
is 36" high, and I used the same 34" OSB for the top and left about 3" of overhang
for the clamping surface. Good luck.
Do Not Archive
--- On Fri, 5/9/08, John Short <creativesigns@embarqmail.com> wrote:
> From: John Short <creativesigns@embarqmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: Work table fix.
> To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
> Date: Friday, May 9, 2008, 7:00 AM
> Short" <creativesigns@embarqmail.com>
>
>
> I tried this very approach with unusable results. I used
> self leveling floor
> prep for laying tile over the top of the plywood. would
> have worked fine I
> think had I sealed the plywood prior to using the water
> based leveler. As a
> result the water based material warped the plywood and made
> a huge mess of
> things.
>
> I do feel with the proper prep this technique could produce
> a very fine/flat
> table.
>
>
> John (Scratch building 701)
> Kaufman, Tx
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "raymondj" <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
> To: <zenith701801-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 11:10 PM
> Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: Work table fix.
>
>
> "raymondj"
> > <raymondj@frontiernet.net>
> >
> > Greetings all,
> >
> > THE FOLLOWING IS SPECULATION AND HAS NOT BEEN
> TRIED.
> >
> > I am considering building my construction table
> with solid foundation
> > and top, then a layer of self-leveling compound, and
> then gluing the final
> > top on to the dried compound. I think that will give
> me a level and flat
> > surface.
> >
> > I think this technique could also be used to modify
> existing tables
> > which are out of line.
> >
> > Raymond Julian
> > Kettle River, MN
> >
> > "Hope for the best,
> > but prepare for the worst."
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Larry Hursh"
> <skyridersbn@yahoo.com>
> > To: <zenith701801-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 10:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: Need recommendations
> for work table height
> >
> >
> >> Terry Phillips <ttp44@rkymtn.net> wrote:
> --> Zenith701801-List message
> >> posted by: Terry Phillips
> >>
> >> Bob
> >>
> >> I built mine at 31.5" (from the high end of
> the sloping garage floor) and
> >> that works fine for me, at least up to wings. But
> I would second what Ben
> >> said about making it flat and level. I was in a
> hurry and got the
> >> straightest 2x6x12's I could find at the local
> Lowes, because engineered
> >> beams were special order out here in western Mont.
> The 2x6's weren't
> >> straight enough--the table is probably 3/8"
> (9-mm) low at one end. I've
> >> been paying for my lack of patience ever since.
> >>
> >> Older and wiser.
> >>
> >> Terry
> >>
> >>
> >> Terry and Bob,
> >>
> >> All is not lost if you should decide to try to
> get the table more level.
> >> If you can, remove the plywood or OSB from the
> top. Take a taunt string
> >> on each 2 X 6 one at a time and find all the high
> spots. Remove those
> >> high spots with a wood plane. Keep checking the
> straightness with your
> >> tight string as you work the high spots down. Run
> the string opposite
> >> corners to see if if you are level across at the
> "X" or dead center. If
> >> the string just touches in the center board as it
> touches each corner,
> >> you should be more level than you are right now.
> Once you get the 2 x
> >> 6's level, reattach the top and then go for
> the level of the entire
> >> table. Most all garage floors have a certain
> amount of tip to them, to
> >> allow water to run off your vehicle and out the
> garage door. Put shims
> >> under the table as needed to get the entire table
> level all around. At
> >> this point, some people literally anchor the
> entire table and shims to
> >> the garage floor using adhesive. I think you will
> find
> >> a vast improvement on how you next kit turns out
> for you. I wouldn't
> >> want to keep fighting it or "paying the high
> price" with a wing that has
> >> twist in it or worse yet, is warped and not
> straight. You could be
> >> setting yourself up for a bigger problem later on.
> We don't need to read
> >> about another pilot going down.
> >>
> >> If anyone has a better way of helping these
> gentleman out than what I
> >> suggested, PLEASE jump in here and comment! Even
> I can stand to learn a
> >> better way of doing this!
> >>
> >> Regards and happy building!
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Larry Hursh
> >> CH601XL (Building from Kits - Just beginning)
> >> (N601LL Reserved)
> >> SkyriderSBN@Yahoo.com
> >>
> >> Keep your eyes skyward - always!
> >> Do Not Archive
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ---------------------------------
> >> Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all
> with Yahoo! Mobile. Try
> >> it now.
> >
> >
> >
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> > Checked by AVG.
> > 5:23 PM
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith701801-List
Be a better friend, newshound, and
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Need recommendations for work table height |
Don't spend too much time on the table is my opinion.
I work in a 12x26' garage, and have built two planes in it. Build tables
are only in existence as long as I need them, so I frequently tear them
apart and make new ones to fit the particular job. I hate having a gigantic
table eating space, and don't find that they need to be that good to
make straight parts.
I built a work table for the tail feathers on my 801, then tore it apart
and made a different table for wings, lowered it to build my fuselage.
In the next couple days I'm going to tear it apart to put the fuselage
supports (less table). I made several tables when I built my Kitfox a few years
ago.
I build mine using straight 2x6's, and leftover plywood. My main assembly
tool is a 9.6v cordless drill, a chop saw, and a level. I built the last table
which was 4x12' in about three hours after dinner. SO it does not need to
be complicated.
I do two things religiously that make life better.
I level the table in place by adjusting the leg heights. (I use 6 legs). I put
a big blob of auto body bondo on the garage floor and stick the legs to the
floor with the bondo. Removal takes no more than a solid whack with a big
hammer. This keep the table solidly in place.
I only eyeball the table for straightness during building, I do NOT worry
about it being very flat. The key to making straight parts is to screw attach
makeshift holding fixtures to the table top, and adjust components to
straight using a laser level.
In my opinion the table flatness is something you can spend a lot of time
working on, and never get perfect. Then you can still make crooked
parts. Using a laser level and some imagination for methods to check
straightness, makes accurate parts more consistently than even the
best table.
Laser level are difficult to get level (if you have a cheap one like me).
However they cast a beautiful straight line. I adjust the line to what
the laser indicates is level, then verify the line with a big bubble level.
I have two of these, and checked an I can consistent get within 1-2 mm. of perfect
over 16 feet.
I also hit the table top with some white latex house paint with a roller.
The white surface brightens the work area a lot, and is easy to draw
reference lines on with a pencil.
Regards,
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182154#182154
Message 6
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| Subject: | Zenair Newsletter Calendar request |
Zenith-listers,
I will be assuming the responsibility of editor for the Zenair
newsletter a little later this year (coinciding with the newsletter's
renewal period). This is the official publication of Zenith Aircraft to
communicate with the builders and flyers of their products.
One of the projects on the slate is creation of a Zenith builder's photo
calendar which will possess some unique characteristics: it will
released for mid year (July 08 to June 09, for example) and will feature
photos of the creations of Zenith builders and flyers (aircraft!) This
calendar will also list the important dates of national fly-ins and
shows (don't we always need to plan before those dates creep up on us!)
So... I need PHOTOS of your current project (finished or not) emailed
to me... anything that might look FUN and wonderful displayed on a
hanging calendar.... I will choose at least 12 of them (maybe more /
multiple pics per month, possibly) Of course, anyone that gets their
picture chosen will receive a free calendar, and if you are already a
newsletter subscriber (you get one anyway) then we'll have to come up
with another prize.
Also, we are in need of stories, news and tidbits from around the world
related to all things Zenith (building, flying, shows, etc) so please do
not hesitate to submit them to me. If you dont like writing, I can
arrange to do an interview with you (so I do the writing!)
Please submit your photos and writings to my email: jon@joncroke.com and
we'll assume that if you send me a picture you are giving me permission
to use it in the calendar/newsletter.
Dont be afraid to submit wild and crazy photos, too... like your child,
pet, etc seated in/on your partially/completed aircraft.... no need to
have a show stopping paint job.... be creative!
I understand that not everyone is a newsletter subscriber (nor wants to
be)... part of my job is to bridge that gap by adding value (like the
calendar and other features).
Thanks for your support! (Send ideas, too)
Jon
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Zenair Newsletter Calendar request |
Do Not Archive
Jon, Great to hear that a Zenith builder is going to
be taking the reigns of the Zenith Newsletter. I have
to congratulate the Skrogs for looking after this
resource for us for several years but I always
wondered if we were perhaps missing something by not
having a Zenith builder in charge
Great to hear
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
--- Jon Croke <Jon@joncroke.com> wrote:
> Zenith-listers,
>
> I will be assuming the responsibility of editor for
> the Zenair newsletter a little later this year
> (coinciding with the newsletter's renewal period).
> This is the official publication of Zenith Aircraft
> to communicate with the builders and flyers of their
> products.
>
Be a better friend, newshound, and
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Need recommendations for work table height |
Like you Jeff, I have a small work space 10x20 part of a 10x32 shed
I built mine with three sawhorses 3 2x4 and particle board.
Flatness is accomplished with shims at the middle and one corner.
It is not level but is flat using the string cross method
It has worked fine for me and can be disassembled quickly if need be.
Did rudder, horiz stab, and elev
Now working on rt wing and all is going well
Randall J Hebert
N7701P reserved
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of n85ae
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 9:06 AM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: Re: Need recommendations for work table
height
Don't spend too much time on the table is my opinion.
I work in a 12x26' garage, and have built two planes in it. Build tables
are only in existence as long as I need them, so I frequently tear them
apart and make new
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Work table fix. |
I just posted in another thread my thoughts on tables. I'm a bit
opinionated about tables I must admit, but I think they are a big time
waster. I find after two planes built, it is simply not worth the effort
to try to make a perfect table.
Don't waste time on the table. Make a basically flat, basically level table
buy a laser level, get a bunch of 2x4 and plywood scrap, a box of deck,
or drywall screws a cordless driver. Make simple holding fixtures and jigs
as you build, and very straight and level with the laser level and bubble
levels. You will build faster and more accurately. The worlds flattest
high quality table can make crooked parts. a couple sawhorse and a sheet
of plywood can make perfect parts. It all comes down to leveling and
straightening the parts as you build.
OK - Example build a wing. Place spar on table. Level it end to end. Attach
ribs. Screw blocks of 2x4 to the table at each rib tip. Cleco in place the trailing
spar. Using plywood scrap attached to the 2x4 blocks adjust rib
tips, and TE spar into plane with the main spar (i.e. level). Use existing
holes, or clamps fasten the rib tips to the plywood holders
Your table can be crooked like a snake, and 4 inches out of level. However by shimming
and, jigging and leveling you just made a perfectly flat wing.
Do the same thing on a table straight to within .001 over 12 feet ... You still
have all the same issues with having to jig the parts into alignment
anyway. SO the table being flat becomes a mute point.
Regards,
Jeff.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182166#182166
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| Subject: | Re: Need recommendations for work table height |
Shop space is overrated. You just make a bigger mess. If you work in a
small shop you become more efficient. I find I do a major component,
then stop reorganize the shop. Then start another major component. I
also use this as a good time to hit the shop with the leaf blower to clear
the dust and debris out. Windy days work best :)
Actually I have a hangar I rent with lots of space, but 25 minutes drive
to go to work is not worth it. I'd rather build at home, then haul the
parts out there for storage.
Jeff
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182173#182173
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Need recommendations for work table height |
Hi, Bob, and List,
I had the same problem with straightness of lumber, so I made my own
"engineered beams". I bought 3/4" OSB and ripped out 6" boards from it,
which I then laminated with screws and eneric "gorilla" glue. Worked great!
Do not archive
Blue skies and tailwinds
Jim
CH-801
DeltaHawk diesel
Augusta GA
90% done, 90% left
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Work table fix. |
I was thinking of polymer or epoxy products rather than cementitious
underlayment. A temporary edging to retain the material before it sets
would be necessary. May not be cost effective, I haven't priced it out.
Raymond Julian
Kettle River, MN.
----- Original Message -----
From: "kmccune" <kmccune@somtel.net>
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 6:57 AM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: Re: Work table fix.
>
> Hi Raymond,
> This would give you a flat surface if you mixed it a little extra wet and
> had very straight sides to screed the mixture. But remember that you need
> to be able to drill into the surface. Level is still up to how well you
> level it. I still can't see a reason for level though other then generally
> speaking .
>
> Kettle river is just down the road from me. We are getting a pretty good
> showing in our area of 701 builders. I wish there were more flying 701s
> though.
>
> do not archive
>
>
> Kevin
>
> --------
> Mark Twain: Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the
> things that you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the
> bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your
> sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182121#182121
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG.
> 5:24 PM
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | For Sale - RMI uMonitor - NEW - All Probes and Upgrades! |
Dear Listers,
I am selling a new, never used, fully assembled RMI uMonitor with all the probes
for a 4-cylinder engine including Fuel Flow, 4ea EGT, 4ea CGT, Carb Temp, and
Manifold pressure. The uMonitor just had all of the latest hardware and software
updates factory installed including the new high contrast LCD display supporting
Fahrenheit temp readings AND the new LED fiberoptic backlight. Also
included is the Aircraft Extras RM-1B plugin harness extender for the uMonitor
which greatly simplifies the wiring installation.
The uMonitor is in new condition with no scratches and all installation material
and manuals. The pictures below are of the actual unit for sale. The table
below lists all of the items included.
I have nearly $2800 invested in this complete system. I will sell it for $2200
plus shipping to anywhere in the world. I can accept Visa/MC. First come, first
served.
Please email me off list at dralle@matronics.com if you are interested.
Matt Dralle
List Admin / RV-4 Builder
1ea - RMI microMONITOR Assembled . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$1299.00 $1299.00
1ea - Factory Upgrade of LCD (Fahrenheit Temp Display),
. . . . Fiberoptic LED Backlight, Latest Firmware. . . . . .$ 399.00 $ 399.00
1ea - Manifold Pressure Sensor 10.0 to 59.0 InHg. . . . . . $ 68.00 $ 68.00
2ea - EGT/CHT Multiplex Switch 2 to 6 cylinders . . . . . . $ 60.00 $ 120.00
1ea - Fuel Flow sensor, FloScan 201B-6 - .6 to 60.0 GPH. . .$ 230.00 $ 230.00
1ea - Carb Temp Sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$ 55.00 $ 55.00
4ea - EGT Thermocouple - tubing clamp type . . . . . . . . .$ 65.00 $ 260.00
4ea - CHT Thermocouple - bayonet type. . . . . . . . . . . .$ 50.00 $ 200.00
1ea - RM-1B Harness Expander, Aircraft Extras. . . . . . . .$ 155.00 $ 155.00
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $2786.00
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Zenair Newsletter Calendar request |
Since I originally signed up I have always thought it would be great if the newsletter
was online. Any thoughts? It could be an e-mailed PDF or and e-mailed
plain newsletter.
Burke Johnson
CH
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182210#182210
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Zenair Newsletter Calendar request |
Yes! This is would be a natural enhancement for this day and age! We will
need to wait until the transition. Thanks for the suggestion.
do not archive
> <burkeandsusan@verizon.net>
>
> Since I originally signed up I have always thought it would be great if
> the newsletter was online. Any thoughts? It could be an e-mailed PDF or
> and e-mailed plain newsletter.
>
> Burke Johnson
> CH
Message 16
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| Subject: | For Sale - Skyforce Skymap IIIC - NEW - Latest Database |
Dear Listers,
I am selling a new-in-box Skyforce Skymap IIIC full color GPS moving map with Topo.
The database and firmware were just upgraded 05/2008. Includes a Panel
Mounting bracket, GPS Antenna, cigarette lighter adapter, carrying case, and all
manuals. Brand new, never used. No scratches. The pictures below are of
the actual unit. The LCD color display on the IIIC is extremely nice and very
bright. Gives altitude readout. RS232 output.
I have over $2500 invested in this complete system. I will sell it for $2200 plus
shipping to anywhere in the world. I can accept Visa/MC. First come, first
served.
Please email me off list at dralle@matronics.com if you are interested.
Matt Dralle
List Admin / RV-4 Builder
1ea - Skyforce Skymap IIIC w/ GPS and Americas Database. . .$2367.00 . .$2367.00
1ea - Panel Mount. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$98.00 . . .$98.00
1ea - Firmware and Database Update 5/8/2008. . . . . . . . . .$50.00 . . .$50.00
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $2515.00
Message 17
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| Subject: | For Sale - RMI uEncoder - NEW - Assembled |
Dear Listers,
I am selling a new, never used, fully assembled RMI uEncoder. The uEncoder just
had all of the latest hardware and software updates factory installed including
the new high contrast LCD display supporting Fahrenheit temp readings AND
the new LED fiberoptic backlight. The uEncoder displays airspeed, altitude, fpm,
OAT, and outputs Mode C data for most transponders.
The uEncoder is in new condition with no scratches and all installation material
and manuals. The pictures below are of the actual unit for sale. The table
below lists all of the items included.
I have nearly $1500 invested in this complete system. I will sell it for $1100
plus shipping to anywhere in the world. I can accept Visa/MC. First come, first
served.
Please email me off list at dralle@matronics.com if you are interested.
Matt Dralle
List Admin / RV-4 Builder
1ea - RMI microENCODER ASSEMBLED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$1179.00 . $1179.00
1ea - RMI Factory Upgrade of LCD (Fahrenheit Temp, US Miles),
. . . . . . Fiberoptic LED Backlight, Latest Firmware . . . . . $ 315.00 . $ 315.00
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .$1494.00
Message 18
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Barnstormers has a 701 for sale for $29,900 that claims to be 90%
finished with engine and instruments. Thats less than I paid just for
the parts!
Dan Wilde
Message 19
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I just got the Scratch Building Basics video in today and finished watching it.
Great video. Even if I do not decide to scratch build, I learned a lot of good
sheet metal working techniques.
One question I had is when the leading edge of the rudder spar was being formed,
it looked like the metal was being beaten back towards the top to get the smooth
shape.
I recall seeing a technique called tuck shrinking where a flute was created and
then beaten back down to force the metal back into itself and thus shorting the
length. Could that technique be used to get the leading edge into shape or
would there be a problem with the metal getting fatigued.
I also have the the Metalworking 101 video and will watch it tomorrow.
Damon
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182326#182326
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