Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:35 AM - Re: Throttles (Mark Colbeck)
2. 04:41 AM - Re: Tuck shrinking (kmccune)
3. 06:42 AM - work table (sam hord)
4. 09:21 AM - 701 Door Installation (Stanley Challgren)
5. 05:33 PM - 701 LESSON (Damien and Kathy)
6. 10:45 PM - Re: 701 for Sale (Craig Payne)
Message 1
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I purchased 2 from ACS and remove the friction ring from the passenger side. This
was so it would not inadvertently tighten up where I could not reach. Worked
good other than i need to make some nice knobs as the ones that came with the
cables are pretty large and ugly. I am running with the center stick. I attached
some pics showing the bracket I made for the Firewall that works great to
hold the cable. Flexible cable will probably give you a little more flexibility
on the position of the throttle handle as well.
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CH701
70% Complete
www.mykitlog.com/mcolbeck
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Tuck shrinking |
I think it would fatigue the metal like you said. I has thrown out a few parts
that I feel were about to fatigue. Mostly in the transition between the 16mm lip
down to the 3mm lip in the nose area. It took me a bit to get the flutes in
the form block correct, to keep the material in this area from "bunching up"
you then try to save it and it cracks. This happens to Matt in the scratch building
video, he resists the urge to keep trying and removes it from the form block
and tweaks it with fluting pliers. This trick saved me some parts while I
was getting the form block flutes correct.
PS I'm sure the kit is more exciting to build, but scratch build is extremely rewarding
and fun.
Kevin
--------
Mark Twain: Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=182344#182344
Message 3
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To get a flat, light table; build up trusses and screw together. Use 1x2
nailed and glued to the top & btm., both sides of 1/2" chip board 6" wide.
The top is 3/4" particle board. Screw it together with sheet metal angles at
corners and long screws in the ends of the cross members. Can be taken apart
for storage. Just as cheep as 2" material and much stronger and lighter.
Message 4
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| Subject: | 701 Door Installation |
701 Builders:
I have been struggling the past few days with the door installation on
my 701. Initial confusion resulted from the list supplied with my kit
in which several items were crossed off. Finally figured out that it
and the pictorial guide (Bubble doors with fiberglass frame Revision
1.0 (10-24-2007)) were for another type door.
I do have the items on the parts list of 10/03/2003 for the Bubble
Door Option. Revision 1.0, Section A of that date says on page 2 of
12 "See Section 2 Door - Final Assembly." I can find no Section 2
although there is a Section B but it seems to me a jumbled series of
instructions which are very difficult to interpret and do not cover
the door final assembly. Is there a Section 2, and if so, where can I
find it?
I do have the Door sill installed and the hinge attached to it. On
page 4 of 12 of Section B it says to "Tape 1/4" spacer along the top
of the cabin sides". It appears on that page that the 1/4" spacers
may be taped all around the door frame and then the Bent Door Frame
(7F19-2) is then cut to length and taped on top of the spacers. Is
this correct?
What should the next step be and how is the bubble door attached to
the hinge? How is the EXT .50" attached to the door frame?
Any guidance for this aged and confused builder would be appreciated.
Stan
701/Jab 3300 (coming this month?)
Message 5
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If anyone is looking for some lessons in a 701, I just got back from 2
lessons at Kitchener Ontario and it went great. Tom Mills gives lessons
at Waterloo Regional Airport and I highly recommend him. It was also a
pleasue to talk to Mark Townsend and visit his Can-Zac shop.
Tom Mills' e-mail address is millfly@sympatico.ca.
Regards,
Damien
Message 6
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I'll be inspecting it on Monday. The engine is a 912ULS from 1998 with only
6 hours on it. It probably doesn't have the slipper clutch installed
(although a retrofit is available from Rotax for about $1300 in parts).
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 7:53 PM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: 701 for Sale
Barnstormers has a 701 for sale for $29,900 that claims to be 90%
finished with engine and instruments. Thats less than I paid just for
the parts!
Dan Wilde
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