Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:40 AM - Re: 801 wing root rib (bcchurch)
2. 09:56 AM - Re: Flightline FL-760 (kahunadude)
3. 10:32 AM - Re: Re: 801 wing root rib (John Swartout)
4. 11:12 AM - Re: Re: 801 wing root rib (BokKat)
5. 11:19 AM - Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 (Mark Sherman)
6. 12:32 PM - Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 (Craig Payne)
7. 01:07 PM - Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 (Mark Sherman)
8. 02:45 PM - Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 (sonar1@cox.net)
9. 03:52 PM - Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 (nyterminat@aol.com)
10. 03:58 PM - Re: Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 (nyterminat@aol.com)
11. 05:28 PM - Re: 801 wing root rib (Tom P)
12. 05:56 PM - Re: 801 wing root rib (Tom P)
13. 07:02 PM - Re: Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 (Gary Gower)
14. 07:55 PM - Re: After 5 hours flight time, questions (mwpicard)
15. 08:02 PM - Re: Re: Leaking 801 flap motor gear box (John Swartout)
16. 08:10 PM - Re: CanZac floats (mwpicard)
17. 08:14 PM - Re: STOL landings in a 701 (mwpicard)
18. 09:06 PM - Re: Re: After 5 hours flight time, questions (Les Goldner)
19. 09:17 PM - Re: Re: STOL landings in a 701 (Les Goldner)
20. 10:24 PM - Re: After 5 hours flight time, questions (mwpicard)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: 801 wing root rib |
John, Thanks for the great reply.
I've re-measured my root ribs and main ribs from both left and right sides and
all are the same length. Since the root rib attaches 1) to the inside of the
rear spar doubler and 2) to the inside of the main spar extrusions, then I would
say that the root rib needs to be shorter than the main ribs by the combined
thickness of the rear doubler and the main spar extrusion. That combined thickness
is about 6-7 mm which exactly corresponds to the deflection I see in the
rear spar when I locate the root rib.
I'm thinking of cutting off the rear flange on the root rib and using a short piece
of std L to join the root rib to the rear spar doubler. I will, naturally,
call and ask Zenith about this. But, I would also appreciate comments / opinions
from other builders. Please tell me if I'm doing something stupid.
On another note, what is the proper term for the thin sheet in the main spar that
connects the top and bottom extrusions? I'm talking about the sheet with all
the lightneing holes. I call it a "web" but I'm sure there's a better term.
Thanks,
Ben
--------
Ben Church
CH801
Racine, WI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5057#205057
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| Subject: | Re: Flightline FL-760 |
Has the sidetone issue on the FL-760 been resolved as yet?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5086#205086
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| Subject: | Re: 801 wing root rib |
I think "web" is the correct term.
Std. L is probably okay but I made a piece with a long enough flange mating
up with the rib to put two rows of rivets into the rib, parallel to the rear
spar.
I wouldn't be surprised if ZAC changed the shape of the root rib because it
is so difficult to get a nice smooth curve in the root skin, and maybe made
some the wrong length. I thought Roger told me once that they had actually
changed the root rib to have a separate flange riveted on the rear end--but
that was about 7 or 8 years ago so who knows? When I was fitting my root
skins, I had to make a dummy out of .016 aluminum, trimming and fitting,
trimming and fitting etc. ad nauseum, then duplicate it with .025. But even
then, I chased a bubble 'round and 'round and 'round trying to get the skin
to lay flat on the rear spar, the root rib, and the flange attached between
#1 rib and the inboard end of the main top skin.
John
On Fri, Sep 19, 2008 at 10:39 AM, bcchurch <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> John, Thanks for the great reply.
>
> I've re-measured my root ribs and main ribs from both left and right sides
> and all are the same length. Since the root rib attaches 1) to the inside
> of the rear spar doubler and 2) to the inside of the main spar extrusions,
> then I would say that the root rib needs to be shorter than the main ribs by
> the combined thickness of the rear doubler and the main spar extrusion.
> That combined thickness is about 6-7 mm which exactly corresponds to the
> deflection I see in the rear spar when I locate the root rib.
>
> I'm thinking of cutting off the rear flange on the root rib and using a
> short piece of std L to join the root rib to the rear spar doubler. I will,
> naturally, call and ask Zenith about this. But, I would also appreciate
> comments / opinions from other builders. Please tell me if I'm doing
> something stupid.
>
> On another note, what is the proper term for the thin sheet in the main
> spar that connects the top and bottom extrusions? I'm talking about the
> sheet with all the lightneing holes. I call it a "web" but I'm sure there's
> a better term.
>
> Thanks,
> Ben
>
> --------
> Ben Church
> CH801
> Racine, WI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5057#205057
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: 801 wing root rib |
I agree John. I made mine twice on one side and three times on the
other, neot including the carboard ones I also made. They are far from
perfect, but I decided I'd live with them. I wish ZAC would have them
moulded out of plastic to simplify making the darned things. The wing
tips could be made from plastic, too. Would save a week or more of
work, and after banging my head against the wall making them I'd gladly
pay the difference!
----- Original Message -----
From: John Swartout
To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: Re: 801 wing root rib
I think "web" is the correct term.
Std. L is probably okay but I made a piece with a long enough flange
mating up with the rib to put two rows of rivets into the rib, parallel
to the rear spar.
I wouldn't be surprised if ZAC changed the shape of the root rib
because it is so difficult to get a nice smooth curve in the root skin,
and maybe made some the wrong length. I thought Roger told me once that
they had actually changed the root rib to have a separate flange riveted
on the rear end--but that was about 7 or 8 years ago so who knows? When
I was fitting my root skins, I had to make a dummy out of .016 aluminum,
trimming and fitting, trimming and fitting etc. ad nauseum, then
duplicate it with .025. But even then, I chased a bubble 'round and
'round and 'round trying to get the skin to lay flat on the rear spar,
the root rib, and the flange attached between #1 rib and the inboard end
of the main top skin.
John
On Fri, Sep 19, 2008 at 10:39 AM, bcchurch <bcchurch@yahoo.com> wrote:
<bcchurch@yahoo.com>
John, Thanks for the great reply.
I've re-measured my root ribs and main ribs from both left and right
sides and all are the same length. Since the root rib attaches 1) to
the inside of the rear spar doubler and 2) to the inside of the main
spar extrusions, then I would say that the root rib needs to be shorter
than the main ribs by the combined thickness of the rear doubler and the
main spar extrusion. That combined thickness is about 6-7 mm which
exactly corresponds to the deflection I see in the rear spar when I
locate the root rib.
I'm thinking of cutting off the rear flange on the root rib and
using a short piece of std L to join the root rib to the rear spar
doubler. I will, naturally, call and ask Zenith about this. But, I
would also appreciate comments / opinions from other builders. Please
tell me if I'm doing something stupid.
On another note, what is the proper term for the thin sheet in the
main spar that connects the top and bottom extrusions? I'm talking
about the sheet with all the lightneing holes. I call it a "web" but
I'm sure there's a better term.
Thanks,
Ben
--------
Ben Church
CH801
Racine, WI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5057#205057
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| Subject: | Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 |
Bob.
Sorry it took so long for a reply, had to find my copy of a catalog.
It is called a Ram Air Pressure Cap, # E-481-000. In my catalog ( May 2008)
it has a price of $37.95.
The tube sticks straight up, but you can bend it the way you need it, once
you see what direction you need with it mounted to your tank.
Mark S.
701/912ULS
Message 6
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| Subject: | Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 |
Does it actually fit (and seal) on the neck of the factory tanks?
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Sherman
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:17 PM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701
Bob.
Sorry it took so long for a reply, had to find my copy of a catalog.
It is called a Ram Air Pressure Cap, # E-481-000. In my catalog ( May 2008)
it has a price of $37.95.
The tube sticks straight up, but you can bend it the way you need it, once
you see what direction you need with it mounted to your tank.
Mark S.
701/912ULS
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 |
Craig.
Yes, in fact I had to adjust the tabs on the cap because it fit to tight.
Mark S.
701/912ULS
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Payne" <craig@craigandjean.com>
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:31 PM
Subject: RE: Zenith701801-List: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701
> <craig@craigandjean.com>
>
> Does it actually fit (and seal) on the neck of the factory tanks?
>
> -- Craig
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark
> Sherman
> Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:17 PM
> To: Zenith701801-list
> Subject: Zenith701801-List: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701
>
> <n752ms@softcom.net>
>
> Bob.
>
> Sorry it took so long for a reply, had to find my copy of a catalog.
>
> It is called a Ram Air Pressure Cap, # E-481-000. In my catalog ( May
> 2008)
> it has a price of $37.95.
>
> The tube sticks straight up, but you can bend it the way you need it, once
> you see what direction you need with it mounted to your tank.
>
> Mark S.
> 701/912ULS
>
>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
8:25 AM
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 |
If the object of this exhaustive exercise is to get the tanks to flow evenly,
what happens if one vent gives a tiny bit more pressure than the other?
I had the factory caps, had uneven flow because of bubbles, put a valve in each
line, problem solved (since 2006).............Fred Sanford..N9701
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5144#205144
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 |
Thanks Mark. I will give it a look.
Bob Spudis
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 |
Best part about pressurizing the tanks is that you won't stain the top
of the wing from loosing fuel due to the negative pressure.
Bob Spudis
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: 801 wing root rib |
Hi guys I just went out and looked at my completed wings and found that one was
very straight at the root area but the other wing dips in at the rear spar at
rib #1 only about a millimeter. I'm not worried about it but will be looking
at the rest when I get things closed up. 6-7 millimeters would suck!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5178#205178
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: 801 wing root rib |
Hi guys I just went out and looked at my completed wings and found that one was
very straight at the root area but the other wing dips in at the rear spar at
rib #1 only about a millimeter. I'm not worried about it but will be looking
at the rest when I get things closed up. 6-7 millimeters would suck!
--------
Tom CH801
Dynon D180
Lycoming IO-360 From Teledyne Mattituck
www.computerclubcanada.com/plane.htm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5190#205190
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701 |
The only way we could clean the brown stains of the gasoline in the wings..
.- before we installed the valves (the wings are-painted yellow using D
upont Imron),- was with- a rag using- gasoline.-- Believe it or n
ot,--we tried diferent brands of degreaser- and soap (both liquid or
in spray) and did not work.- only polish will do, but that way the paint
will not last several years,- later we will- had-yellow and green (ci
nc cronmate) wings :-)
-
we used during that time, plain gasoline- from the gascolator test to the
rag, here we use Premium auto gas from Pemex, only brand here for the Rota
x 912, and Magna (regular) for the 2 cycles...
No more stains- since we installed the valve in each tank.
Try it over there might work...
-
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Flying from Chapala, Mexico.
--- On Fri, 9/19/08, nyterminat@aol.com <nyterminat@aol.com> wrote:
From: nyterminat@aol.com <nyterminat@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: Re: Ram Air Pressure Cap for 701
Best part about pressurizing the tanks is that you won't stain the top
of the wing from loosing fuel due to the negative pressure.
Bob Spudis
=0A=0A=0A
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: After 5 hours flight time, questions |
At about 20 hours on the hobbs, my 701 with Rotax 912 ULS also exhibited partial
fuel flow and I had a number of forced landings before we finally found the
problem. It turned out to be a piece of rubber hose debris in the fuel supply
line installed by ROTAX at the factory. So two cylinders were not getting fuel
when the throttle was fully open and the rubber debris happened to oclude the
small opening on the inlet side of the motor.
I recommend you disassemble all the factory installed fuel lines and blow them
out to make sure they are 100% clean. I am surprised this could get through the
Rotax quality control. It definitely could be a killer. If you need more info
contact Doug at Quality Sport Planes as he found the problem.
Regarding the oil canning luggage compartment bulkhead. I would really like to
cut a large retangular window in it and install a pane of latex with bolts all
around. I would like to see all the way back into the plane. Everyone so far
has strongly disadvised it saying that it could weaken the plane. I cant see
how that flimsy oil canning bulkhead could be so structural....anyone?
thanks,
Martin Picard
701 en route to Australia (on a ship)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5212#205212
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Leaking 801 flap motor gear box |
Thanks, Jeff. I showed it to an auto parts store person, and they said they
could probably match it, even if it weren't a direct replacement. I will
need to place an order to McMaster-Carr anyway, for some O-rings. Thanks
for the tip.
John
On Thu, Sep 18, 2008 at 9:38 AM, n85ae <n85ae@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Once you get the seal out, you should be able to find a replacement
> at McMaster Carr. Just measure it, and look through their catalog for
> a dimensionally equivelant part. http://www.mcmaster.com
>
> Jeff
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 4910#204910
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: CanZac floats |
One more update regarding floats for the 701.
After having to cancel my order because Can Zac disappeared on me and other clients
on this list, I STILL havent got a response or even a cancellation acknowledgment
from him or Zenith and it is fairly sure that one should be looking
at alternatives when it comes to floats! There should be a kit for them.
The folks I have been in contact with have had really good service and responses
from a number of alternative suppliers - all of which are not aluminium and
therefore, perhaps, less leaky, lighter and all around more suitable to the 701
(my uninformed opinion).
The list of suppliers that I have found a pleasure to deal with and all of whom
could supply you with excellent floats is:
Full-Lotus - inflatable floats, straight and amphib
Puddle -Jumper floats - composite straight and amphib
Downwind technology - Composite straight and ampib
Scuola Italiana Volo - Composite straight and amphib
plus there are others I am sure....
I have a very rough document with some more details, feel free to email me if you
want it.
I have decided that there is much to learn about flying a 701 to its full potential
and so a season or two on wheels - maybe later on some big tundra tires as
my ability progresses enough to be able to put them to good use -- is probably
a smart way to go.
If you plan to fly floats and dont have your rating yet, I had an amazing and very
intensive learning experience at Alaska Float Ratings in Moose Pass.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5216#205216
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: STOL landings in a 701 |
I had a fantastic experience taking a lesson from Paul Reindeer who flies floats
and skis on his 701 in alaska and is an absolute expert.
If you are at all rusty when completing your 701 I would not fly it without getting
a few lessons first. I found it took me 3 hours to get the hang of the
differences between it and a supercub on landing. Without some help I think I
would have dented it...
martin
N69999 (i have 9s to spare if you need one)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5217#205217
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: After 5 hours flight time, questions |
Martin,
Glad you found the fuel starvation problem. My take on the bulkhead hole is
that you could probably do it, possibly hinging a door, but why not put some
reinforcement in the bulkhead first? I put a BRS chute on this bulkhead. I
needed to strengthen it first and could show you how I did it. Write
directly to me if you want a picture of what I did.
Les
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of mwpicard
> Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 7:56 PM
> To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith701801-List: Re: After 5 hours flight time, questions
>
> <mwpicard@gmail.com>
>
> At about 20 hours on the hobbs, my 701 with Rotax 912 ULS
> also exhibited partial fuel flow and I had a number of forced
> landings before we finally found the problem. It turned out
> to be a piece of rubber hose debris in the fuel supply line
> installed by ROTAX at the factory. So two cylinders were not
> getting fuel when the throttle was fully open and the rubber
> debris happened to oclude the small opening on the inlet side
> of the motor.
>
> I recommend you disassemble all the factory installed fuel
> lines and blow them out to make sure they are 100% clean. I
> am surprised this could get through the Rotax quality
> control. It definitely could be a killer. If you need more
> info contact Doug at Quality Sport Planes as he found the problem.
>
> Regarding the oil canning luggage compartment bulkhead. I
> would really like to cut a large retangular window in it and
> install a pane of latex with bolts all around. I would like
> to see all the way back into the plane. Everyone so far has
> strongly disadvised it saying that it could weaken the plane.
> I cant see how that flimsy oil canning bulkhead could be
> so structural....anyone?
> thanks,
> Martin Picard
> 701 en route to Australia (on a ship)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5212#205212
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: STOL landings in a 701 |
Martin,
Nice to know that Paul Reinders has helped more than one of us get our 701's
into the sky.
Paul is a real treasure of 701 knowledge and an excellent teacher. For those
who don't know him, Paul keeps his 701 in Alaska but spends some of his time
in Santa Rosa Ca. I think he has about 35000 flight hours; a retired 747
airlines pilot, active ferry pilot, and flight examiner.
When I finished my 701 at the beginning of the year Paul was kind enough to
go up with me for its first flight and showed me how to fly it. 108 hours
later I haven't dinged it yet, thanks to Paul!
Les
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of mwpicard
> Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 8:14 PM
> To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith701801-List: Re: STOL landings in a 701
>
> <mwpicard@gmail.com>
>
> I had a fantastic experience taking a lesson from Paul
> Reindeer who flies floats and skis on his 701 in alaska and
> is an absolute expert.
>
> If you are at all rusty when completing your 701 I would not
> fly it without getting a few lessons first. I found it took
> me 3 hours to get the hang of the differences between it and
> a supercub on landing. Without some help I think I would
> have dented it...
>
> martin
> N69999 (i have 9s to spare if you need one)
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5217#205217
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: After 5 hours flight time, questions |
Les,
thanks for your reply and encouragement. I cant seem to figure out how to email
you directly. Maybe you can message me directly or give me a tip on how to contact
you to get the info on the bulkhead mods.
thanks
martin
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 5229#205229
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