Today's Message Index:
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1. 05:13 AM - Dual Sticks & Rudder Cables (George Race)
2. 09:16 AM - Re: Re: Dual sticks (Dan Wilde)
3. 11:48 AM - rudder materials (gotosteven)
4. 12:18 PM - Re: rudder materials (John Bolding)
5. 12:50 PM - Re: rudder materials (Ryan Vechinski)
6. 01:56 PM - Re: rudder materials (kmccune)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Dual Sticks & Rudder Cables |
When I built the 701 I also installed dual sticks. Hands off level flight
was very easy, and I eliminated the crossed cables going to the Elevator.
Ended up with a very smooth control system. Cable pulleys were also
installed as part of the design. Using much of the design of the 601 dual
stick diagram, they were built to fit the 701 from basic materials. Once
you get the hang of getting in by putting your right foot in on the right
side of the stick first, entering the airplane is very easy. As you can see
from my pictures, that allowed for a single central mounted throttle
control, and the airplane can be flown easily from either seat.
On the Rudder Cables I installed a pair of "guide" pulleys just behind the
point where the cables come thru the front seat bulkhead. This resulted in
the cables not changing direction slightly thru the front mounted fairleads
as well as reducing the friction point at the front fairlead. At the rear
where the cables exit the Fuselage, I used a nylon fairlead on the inside of
the fuselage as well as the outside of the fuselage under the cable fairing
plate. I had a lot of clearance between the cable and the "L" angles of the
Fuselage along the Rudder cable run.
You can see the details of all the above in my pictures located at
www.mykitiarplane.com/MyCH701.
You can also purchase the 2000 picture DVD that I have there as well if you
wish to see all the details very close up on your computer.
George - Builder and Test Pilot of N73EX
Message 2
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Coloradodan wrote:
>
> No doubt the stock stick is easy to use. But it really limits right seat flying.
> I like the controls in the middle. The CH601 has dual sticks and I'm considering
a similar setup to convert the 801. I'm flying and having fun but there's
always a new upgrade around the corner. Next up Cargo Pod!
>
>
> I took my first flight in Cloverdale,CA in a 701 with the "Y" stick. It was
as easy to fly from the right seat as it is now in my own 701 from the left seat.
With dual throttles (as per plans) it should not be a problem except for
the lack of brakes on the right side.
>
Dan Wilde
N948DW
42 hours
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | rudder materials |
well i cant afford to go out and buy all materials needed but would like to get
started on my ch701
can someone give me a approx on materials need to build just rudder from scratch
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=217945#217945
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: rudder materials |
The EASY way to get this is to lay out the pieces on cardboard and cut them
out, move/ nest them to get min. dimension and measure.
LO&SLO John
----- Original Message -----
From: "gotosteven" <gotosteven@hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 06, 2008 1:47 PM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: rudder materials
> <gotosteven@hotmail.com>
>
> well i cant afford to go out and buy all materials needed but would like
> to get started on my ch701
> can someone give me a approx on materials need to build just rudder from
> scratch
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=217945#217945
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | rudder materials |
I hear you when you say you can't afford all of the material.
What I would suggest is to just buy a couple of sheets of metal=2C either 4
' x 8' or 4' x 12'. They are cheap enough=2C and you will use the metal!
I get my metal through aircraft spruce. I have never had a problem they di
dn't solve=2C and I get my metal at a decent price and also get fast shippi
ng. The thinner pieces they will roll=2C if you order on the phone! If yo
u order on the internet=2C I believe they will send a truck for a couple hu
ndred $$!
You should need:
(1) 4' x 12' .016 (again=2C you won't use all of it on the rudder=2C but it
is cheap enough)
(1) 4' x 12' .025 (verify that this is correct for the ribs - I'm at the of
fice at the moment)
I don't think there are any .040 pieces on the rudder=2C but there is a thi
cker piece for the horn (.125? - please verify) You can get a 2' x 2' piec
e.
I wouldn't get too picky on getting just enough metal for the rudder. Besi
des=2C if you are like most scratch builders=2C you'll be redoing some part
s anyway.
Oh=2C and don't forget the A4 & A5 rivets. I get them through Zenith=2C so
I don't have any other suggestions.
Good luck!> From: jnbolding1@teleshare.net> To: zenith701801-list@matronics
.com> Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: rudder materials> Date: Sat=2C 6 Dec
ng" <jnbolding1@teleshare.net>> > The EASY way to get this is to lay out th
e pieces on cardboard and cut them > out=2C move/ nest them to get min. dim
ension and measure.> > LO&SLO John> > > > ----- Original Message ----- > Fr
om: "gotosteven" <gotosteven@hotmail.com>> To: <zenith701801-list@matronics
.com>> Sent: Saturday=2C December 06=2C 2008 1:47 PM> Subject: Zenith701801
tosteven" > > <gotosteven@hotmail.com>> >> > well i cant afford to go out a
nd buy all materials needed but would like > > to get started on my ch701>
> can someone give me a approx on materials need to build just rudder from
> > scratch> >> >> >> >> > Read this topic online here:> >> > http://forums
.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=217945#217945> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >>
=======================> > >
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: rudder materials |
John is correct, if you are tight on material for any reason you can lay it out
first. 1ea 4x8 foot sheet of .016 and 1ea 1X4foot piece of of .032 and 1 ea
4x4foot sheet of .025 and ea 1x1foot of .090 should do it. you will have some
left over too, as long as your careful and don't waste or ruin any. As long
as you have other aluminum available use it to practice rib forming.
Be sure to use the correct rivets and drill size. The offer of the scratch building
DVD is still out there. Let me know.
For a sheet metal brake its hard to beat the Daves Cheap Metal Bending Brake, more
so if you have access to scrap angle iron! I had to buy mine and $70 US got
me a 10 ft break that works well.
Kevin
--------
Mark Twain: Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=217952#217952
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