Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:26 AM - Re: Top window installation (Tommy Walker)
2. 04:32 AM - Re: Top window (Tommy Walker)
3. 05:11 AM - Re: top window (Zed Smith)
4. 06:06 AM - Re: Re: top window (BokKat)
5. 06:46 AM - Re: Top window (ronlee)
6. 09:41 AM - Re: Re: Top window (BokKat)
7. 04:42 PM - Diagonal tube placement /fuselage cabin frame. (Harvey Richards)
8. 06:00 PM - Re: Diagonal tube placement /fuselage cabin frame. (MacDonald Doug)
9. 07:00 PM - Re: Maintenance log book (Tommy Walker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Top window installation |
Doug,
There's not a lot of info available on the top window installation.
I'm attaching a picture (I hope) of how the top window sits on top of the cabin
frame underneath the windshield lip. We used a seam of acrylic (or some such)
to seal the area. No drilling in the top cabin frame.
Hope this helps
Tommy Walker in Alabama
--------
Tommy Walker
N8701 - Anniston, AL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238458#238458
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dsc00022_138.jpg
Message 2
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Hi Philip,
I'll wager it is hotter and sunnier here in Alabama. We considered adding some
type of sun screen to the top window, but never did. The window is slightly
tinted anyway, so we just went with that.
It never seemed to be a problem.
We always wore hats.
Tommy Walker in Alabama
--------
Tommy Walker
N8701 - Anniston, AL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238459#238459
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do not archive
Several yeas ago somebody suggested that the top window be totally fitted,clecoed,
etc, BEFORE working on the piece which makes the window bow upward. (Don't
have plans at hand, no part number for reference).
Anyway, the idea being that the "curved" piece needs to apply a slight amount of
upward pressure against the underside of the top window, and that attaching
it last allowed the builder to position this piece as needed to achieve the desired
result.
As I recall, whoever suggested this explained that the curved piece, in his case,
had a narrow strip of felt glued to the top, making contact with the bottom
of the window.
Seems that the Lister also mentioned he had seen others without any actual upward
pressure, and they "fluttered" somewhat at various speeds, which dinged the
window.
You results may differ.
Regards to all,
Zed/701/912/90%, etc
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: re: top window |
While flying it would bow outwards with the gigantic suction on the top of
the cabin. I was worried it would be sucked right off!
Then I put a strip of cork on the underside of the plexiglass along the
diagonal brace and then glued it down to the diagonal brace with a strip of
silicone and its fine, now. Doesn't move.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Zed Smith" <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 7:10 AM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: re: top window
> <zsmith3rd@earthlink.net>
>
> do not archive
>
> Several yeas ago somebody suggested that the top window be totally
> fitted,clecoed, etc, BEFORE working on the piece which makes the window
> bow upward. (Don't have plans at hand, no part number for reference).
> Anyway, the idea being that the "curved" piece needs to apply a slight
> amount of upward pressure against the underside of the top window, and
> that attaching it last allowed the builder to position this piece as
> needed to achieve the desired result.
> As I recall, whoever suggested this explained that the curved piece, in
> his case, had a narrow strip of felt glued to the top, making contact with
> the bottom of the window.
> Seems that the Lister also mentioned he had seen others without any actual
> upward pressure, and they "fluttered" somewhat at various speeds, which
> dinged the window.
>
> You results may differ.
>
> Regards to all,
>
> Zed/701/912/90%, etc
>
>
>
Message 5
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I live in southern Arizona and it is very sunny here and hot too. I put limousine
tint (very dark) on the inside of my roof panel to keep from baking. It was
like a solar oven in there. If I had to do it again the top would be all aluminum
with maybe a small window that could be covered easily from the inside when
sunny.
My thought was that the plastic in a solid frame needed some room to move so it
wouldn't crack. I made the holes in the plastic a little bigger then the screws
shank. I did drill, tap and screw my Lexan down instead of rivet it, that
way I could control how much to tighten the screws. I put Locktite on the threads
and silicone under the heads of the #6 screws to keep the not real tight screws
from turning and to keep the water out. One other thing to think about
is the fact that that part of the cabin creates lift when in flight. I can stick
my finger between the cross bow and the plastic when in flight yet it is tight
to the cross bow when on the ground. This makes me think it needs to be attached
quite well.
--------
Ron Lee
Tucson, Arizona
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238482#238482
Message 6
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Yes, it was the bowing out in flight that bothered me. I was worried that
sooner or later there'd be a pop and swoosh and it would break and depart.
That's why I fastened it to the cross tube. Maybe not necessary, but I
relax better now.
----- Original Message -----
From: "ronlee" <rlee468@comcast.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 8:45 AM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: Re: Top window
>
> I live in southern Arizona and it is very sunny here and hot too. I put
> limousine tint (very dark) on the inside of my roof panel to keep from
> baking. It was like a solar oven in there. If I had to do it again the top
> would be all aluminum with maybe a small window that could be covered
> easily from the inside when sunny.
> My thought was that the plastic in a solid frame needed some room to move
> so it wouldn't crack. I made the holes in the plastic a little bigger then
> the screws shank. I did drill, tap and screw my Lexan down instead of
> rivet it, that way I could control how much to tighten the screws. I put
> Locktite on the threads and silicone under the heads of the #6 screws to
> keep the not real tight screws from turning and to keep the water out.
> One other thing to think about is the fact that that part of the cabin
> creates lift when in flight. I can stick my finger between the cross bow
> and the plastic when in flight yet it is tight to the cross bow when on
> the ground. This makes me think it needs to be attached quite well.
>
> --------
> Ron Lee
> Tucson, Arizona
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238482#238482
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Diagonal tube placement /fuselage cabin frame. |
When I place my diagonal tube against the rear wing bracket there is a slight bow
where it goes into the steel cabin frame tube at the forward wing attach point.
In order to straighten it out I have to bring it about a half an inch or
so away from the rear wing attach bracket.I set the distance to 710mm as I have
not built the wings yet. Everything is square measuring diagonally at the top
of the cabin frame. I would like to keep the tube against the rear wing attach
bracket to get as much to rivet to and attach my bottom gusset to also. Any
thoughts? Thanks.
--------
CH 701
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238565#238565
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Diagonal tube placement /fuselage cabin frame. |
Harvey, I would wait to rivet the diagnal brace in place until you set the cabin
frame spacing to fit your wings. As a matter, that is exactly what I did.
You might find once you set the spar spacing to your wings, that things will line
up better.
Doug MacDonald
NW Ontario, Canada
Mounting windshield
Do Not Archive
> Richards" <lisa.richards@ns.sympatico.ca>
>
> When I place my diagonal tube against the rear wing bracket
> there is a slight bow where it goes into the steel cabin
> frame tube at the forward wing attach point. In order to
> straighten it out I have to bring it about a half an inch or
> so away from the rear wing attach bracket.I set the distance
> to 710mm as I have not built the wings yet. Everything is
> square measuring diagonally at the top of the cabin frame. I
> would like to keep the tube against the rear wing attach
> bracket to get as much to rivet to and attach my bottom
> gusset to also. Any thoughts? Thanks.
>
> --------
> CH 701
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Maintenance log book |
Les,
Do you have a blank spreadsheet you could share for those of us who are not Excel
Literate??
Thanks,
Tommy Walker in Alabama
Do Not Archive
lgold(at)quantum-associat wrote:
> Its real easy to do your own log book in excel. Just set up the following columns.
> (You need HTML format to read the following. If it does not work, email me directly
for this info.)
>
> Yr:
> 2007
> Date
> Flight
> or Test
> Hours
> Total
> Eng.
> Hrs.
> Totl Air
> -frame
> Hrs
> FOR
> Description of Inspections, Test, Repairs or Alterations
>
> (FOR Key: Both = B Airframe only=A Engine only= E)
> Endorsement: Name, Rating, Certificate No., & Facility.
>
> (The FOR Key codes I use are: Both = B Airframe only=A Engine only= E
> You can get fancy and sum hours according to the For category or just enter the
hours as you would in a paper and pencil log.
> Les
> --
--------
Tommy Walker
N8701 - Anniston, AL
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=238576#238576
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