---------------------------------------------------------- Zenith701801-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 04/23/09: 4 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:48 PM - Throttle cables/Rotax 912 (Joe Spencer) 2. 07:08 PM - serial number (Carlos Sa) 3. 07:34 PM - Re: Throttle cables/Rotax 912 (Craig Payne) 4. 08:02 PM - Newbie looking to buy a CH 701, and some questions (motoadve) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:48:44 PM PST US From: "Joe Spencer" Subject: Zenith701801-List: Throttle cables/Rotax 912 I have had a lot of problems keeping the carbs synched on my 912 ULS equipped 701. I first installed the Zenith issued setup with the torque tube and cables and never was able to keep the carbs synched with that for very long. I found a pushrod setup that a fellow Zenith builder came up with( can't remember his name but he was a prof from Texas). That design used pushrods from the torque tube on the firewall forward to the carbs. I doubted that would work for me cause every time the motor torqued in the mounts I was afraid it would change the synch, but I tried it anyway, and found it as I expected. So I abandoned that rig and tried to find a way to mount the torque tube to the motor and actually did, using the 2 threaded bosses on the top rear of the rear cylinders, and down braces from the rear of the carb cable holder. But I abandoned that cause I was afraid the bosses would crack out; there isn't much meat there; and that vibration would be transmitted to the carbs from the downbrace. So I am back to square one and I guess about to go back to a cable setup; after all that is what most of these things are running, and have since forever ago, so that must be the "best" setup out there, right? My original cables were spring loaded wide open as they came from ZAC; that was aggravating as hell, fighting the throttle springs all the time and having to lock it every time you wanted to take your hand off it.I am thinking about going to the spring loaded idle type...have any of you done that? Seems like that might be a lot more convenient particularly in the pattern. I don't worry about it quitting and going to idle. I figure if it does then it was probably just "my time".If any of you have experience with the spring load idle please pass it along. Also is it essential that the cable housing/wires be exactly the same length as the ones going to the other carb? I haven't seen anything on that, and it doesn't seem necessarily that they should be but maybe so. I was using the vacumn gauge set from Lockwood, which I found near useless because of gauge fluctuation, which on my particular pair couldn't be adjusted out with the valves. I am using a plastic tube loop with oil in it now which I think is reliable but am wondering if it isn't way too sensitive. Your experience appreciated, and sorry to be so long winded here. Thanks Joe in Mississippi ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:08:14 PM PST US Subject: Zenith701801-List: serial number From: Carlos Sa A few days ago there was a discussion about serial numbers. Some were of the opinion that the builder assigns his/her own serial number. I found the following text (my underline) in the "601 price order form" http://www.zenithair.com/zodiac/data/601-price-orderform.pdf 2. This contract permits the buyer to build one (1) airplane (or part of it) for recreational and educational purposes only. The type of aircraft and *the Drawings serial number must be visibly marked on the vertical tail or fuselage sides of the aircraft*. Happy building Carlos CH601-HD, plans Montreal, Canada ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:34:56 PM PST US From: "Craig Payne" Subject: RE: Zenith701801-List: Throttle cables/Rotax 912 Have you considered using this: http://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/Details.aspx?ID=11744352 &Article=199 Throttle Control for Dual Carburetor Rotax Engines Innovative design allows a neat, clean installation without a clunky splitter box http://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/%5CImages%5CIncludeImages%5CMCT100D048.jpg * Super-smooth friction lock * All metal construction * Teflon lined for smooth, consistent control * Available in 4, 6, and 8 foot lengths * Measured from panel fitting to end of conduit, wires extend 6 inches beyond conduit * Easily trimmed to length * Longer controls available upon request * Two knob styles available: Standard or Ball * Manufactured to the same quality standards as McFarlane's FAA-PMA parts Specifications: * Panel Fitting: 1/2-20 UNF x 0.67 inch thread * Slip Fit Conduit Terminals: 2 each with 1/4-28 UNF x 1.00 inch thread * Conduit: 0.188 inch OD Teflon lined wound conduit * Inner Wire: Heavy duty 0.062 inch diameter, 1x7 stainless steel twisted wire per MIL-DTL-87161 * Travel (stroke): 3.75 inch maximum * Design Work Loads: * Push: Not Applicable (designed for pull loads only) * Pull: 10 lbs maximum * Typical Locking Force: 1 to 10 lbs (locking force dependent on friction lock engagement) * Operating Temperature: -65 to 450 F -- Craig From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joe Spencer Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2009 7:48 PM Subject: Zenith701801-List: Throttle cables/Rotax 912 I have had a lot of problems keeping the carbs synched on my 912 ULS equipped 701. I first installed the Zenith issued setup with the torque tube and cables and never was able to keep the carbs synched with that for very long. I found a pushrod setup that a fellow Zenith builder came up with( can't remember his name but he was a prof from Texas). That design used pushrods from the torque tube on the firewall forward to the carbs. I doubted that would work for me cause every time the motor torqued in the mounts I was afraid it would change the synch, but I tried it anyway, and found it as I expected. So I abandoned that rig and tried to find a way to mount the torque tube to the motor and actually did, using the 2 threaded bosses on the top rear of the rear cylinders, and down braces from the rear of the carb cable holder. But I abandoned that cause I was afraid the bosses would crack out; there isn't much meat there; and that vibration would be transmitted to the carbs from the downbrace. So I am back to square one and I guess about to go back to a cable setup; after all that is what most of these things are running, and have since forever ago, so that must be the "best" setup out there, right? My original cables were spring loaded wide open as they came from ZAC; that was aggravating as hell, fighting the throttle springs all the time and having to lock it every time you wanted to take your hand off it.I am thinking about going to the spring loaded idle type...have any of you done that? Seems like that might be a lot more convenient particularly in the pattern. I don't worry about it quitting and going to idle. I figure if it does then it was probably just "my time".If any of you have experience with the spring load idle please pass it along. Also is it essential that the cable housing/wires be exactly the same length as the ones going to the other carb? I haven't seen anything on that, and it doesn't seem necessarily that they should be but maybe so. I was using the vacumn gauge set from Lockwood, which I found near useless because of gauge fluctuation, which on my particular pair couldn't be adjusted out with the valves. I am using a plastic tube loop with oil in it now which I think is reliable but am wondering if it isn't way too sensitive. Your experience appreciated, and sorry to be so long winded here. Thanks Joe in Mississippi ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:02:08 PM PST US Subject: Zenith701801-List: Newbie looking to buy a CH 701, and some questions From: "motoadve" Where can I look online to buy a CH 701? I want with a Rotax 912S. How many hours is too much? on the airframe and motor?I want it better with low hrs. So far I have only seen 3 online and with prices ranging from $30,000 to $40,000. Will be my first plane, and Im just starting lessons, is this a good first plane? 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