Zenith701801-List Digest Archive

Thu 10/15/09


Total Messages Posted: 8



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:04 AM - Re: Rigging elevator? (Art Gibeaut)
     2. 05:23 AM - Rigging elevator? (Tommy Walker)
     3. 09:11 AM - Re: Rigging elevator? (JohnDRead@aol.com)
     4. 09:39 AM - Re: Rigging elevator? (Curt Thompson)
     5. 12:15 PM - Re: Annual Inspection Checklist - CH701 (Tommy Walker)
     6. 02:31 PM - Plane and Pilot Magazine? (Ken Arnold)
     7. 02:32 PM - Re: Rigging elevator? (George Race)
     8. 06:13 PM - Re: Re: Need help with Matco wheel disassembly (Les Goldner)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:04:53 AM PST US
    From: Art Gibeaut <aagibeaut@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Rigging elevator?
    I'm at the same stage you are right now, and I think the answer is that there is not enough clearance between the elevator horn and the various obstructions at full deflection for the turnbuckles to be placed there. I used a string and made a rough model of a turnbuckle and it did not clear. My stops at full down appears to be the horn hitting the "L" angle at the top rear fuselage skin, so I added a small piece to reinforce it, and the full up stop for mine, (at least for now) is the nose skin touching the bracket on the rear of the horiz. stab. I have the required angles of deflection in both directions. Hope that helps. --- On Wed, 10/14/09, Curt Thompson <Curt.Thompson@verizon.net> wrote: > From: Curt Thompson <Curt.Thompson@verizon.net> > Subject: Zenith701801-List: Rigging elevator? > To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com > Date: Wednesday, October 14, 2009, 4:33 PM > --> Zenith701801-List message > posted by: "Curt Thompson" <Curt.Thompson@verizon.net> > > > I'm working on rigging the elevator and have a couple of > questions: > > 1) Why do the elevator cables have their turnbuckles in the > middle of the > cable? Why not at the end near the bellcrank? > It seems like there would be > less places for the cable to fail. > > 2) Is there an up and down stop that the up elevator > hits? I can see > anywhere it is going to stop. > > Curt > Plans building CH701. > > > > Zenith701801-List Email Forum - > FAQ, > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > List Contribution Web Site - > -Matt > Dralle, List Admin. > > > >


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:23:37 AM PST US
    From: "Tommy Walker" <twalker@cableone.net>
    Subject: Rigging elevator?
    Hi Curt, I rigged my 701 so that full back on the yoke was the up elevator stop. If you look closely at the plans, you will see that the "L" at the center of the rear spar is to be left untrimmed on the bottom side. The plans say to trim this for the elevator down position after positioning the elevator. Hope this helps, Tommy Walker in Alabama N8701T


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:11:19 AM PST US
    From: JohnDRead@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Rigging elevator?
    I too am at the rigging stage. There is not much space around the rear of the fuselage and making any adjustments there will be difficult. I am going to place the turnbuckles behind the cockpit where all the other mixing bits and pieces are, there is plenty of room and I can easily adjust them in the future through the big hole in the bottom of the fuselage. Plenty of room too to check the cable tension while adjusting the cables. John Read CH701 - Elbert CO - Jabiru 3300 Phone: 303-648-3261 Fax: 303-648-3262 Cell: 719-494-4567 In a message dated 10/15/2009 6:05:04 A.M. Mountain Daylight Time, aagibeaut@yahoo.com writes: --> Zenith701801-List message posted by: Art Gibeaut <aagibeaut@yahoo.com> I'm at the same stage you are right now, and I think the answer is that there is not enough clearance between the elevator horn and the various obstructions at full deflection for the turnbuckles to be placed there. I used a string and made a rough model of a turnbuckle and it did not clear. My stops at full down appears to be the horn hitting the "L" angle at the top rear fuselage skin, so I added a small piece to reinforce it, and the full up stop for mine, (at least for now) is the nose skin touching the bracket on the rear of the horiz. stab. I have the required angles of deflection in both directions. Hope that helps. --- On Wed, 10/14/09, Curt Thompson <Curt.Thompson@verizon.net> wrote: > From: Curt Thompson <Curt.Thompson@verizon.net> > Subject: Zenith701801-List: Rigging elevator? > To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com > Date: Wednesday, October 14, 2009, 4:33 PM > --> Zenith701801-List message > posted by: "Curt Thompson" <Curt.Thompson@verizon.net> > > > I'm working on rigging the elevator and have a couple of > questions: > > 1) Why do the elevator cables have their turnbuckles in the > middle of the > cable? Why not at the end near the bellcrank? > It seems like there would be > less places for the cable to fail. > > 2) Is there an up and down stop that the up elevator > hits? I can see > anywhere it is going to stop. > > Curt > Plans building CH701. > > > > Zenith701801-List Email Forum - > FAQ, > - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > List Contribution Web Site - > -Matt > Dralle, List Admin. > > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 09:39:44 AM PST US
    From: "Curt Thompson" <Curt.Thompson@verizon.net>
    Subject: Rigging elevator?
    Art, I think you are right about the turnbuckle interference if I put them directly on the elevator horn. I see that now that I have started to install the cables. Curt -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Art Gibeaut Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 5:00 AM Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: Rigging elevator? I'm at the same stage you are right now, and I think the answer is that there is not enough clearance between the elevator horn and the various obstructions at full deflection for the turnbuckles to be placed there. I used a string and made a rough model of a turnbuckle and it did not clear. My stops at full down appears to be the horn hitting the "L" angle at the top rear fuselage skin, so I added a small piece to reinforce it, and the full up stop for mine, (at least for now) is the nose skin touching the bracket on the rear of the horiz. stab. I have the required angles of deflection in both directions. Hope that helps.


    Message 5


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    Time: 12:15:46 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Annual Inspection Checklist - CH701
    From: "Tommy Walker" <twalker@cableone.net>
    Jeff, Here's one I used for my last annual. Another builder shared it with me. I had another for the Rotax 912ULS. Tommy Walker m188220 wrote: > ... > I'm finally using some of my spare time to start my annual condition inspection. It's only been a year, so I can still remember building each part. But in a couple of years, I'm sure I'll start missing some items--I probably already am. > > Does anyone have a Excel or Word annual inspection document they are willing to share? It would certainly speed up this effort--and I can get back to flying. > > Thanks, > Jeff -------- Tommy Walker N8701 - Anniston, AL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=268106#268106 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/annual_inspection_701_207.doc


    Message 6


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    Time: 02:31:59 PM PST US
    From: "Ken Arnold" <arno7452@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Plane and Pilot Magazine?
    Has anyone questioned the freshness of the subject magazine? The November 2009 issue has an article on Electronic Approach Plates. The author covers the Sony PRS-505 in good detail. I contacted the magazine and was informed that the new Kindle DX was not available when the article went to press. I did not get an answer when I asked what the lead time from submission to printing was. I have known about the Kindle for quite some time and understand that approach plates can be downloaded for free from a kindly pilot/programmer. It seems one might want to confirm from other sources information contained in this magazine. Ken


    Message 7


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    Time: 02:32:42 PM PST US
    From: "George Race" <mykitairplane@mrrace.com>
    Subject: Rigging elevator?
    I choose to put the elevator turnbuckles right above the opening in the bottom of the fuselage. The foot or so of cable on the forward end allowed the turnbuckles to easily clear the lower part of the baggage area and made it very easy to sit on my little wood box and work on the cables. George -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Curt Thompson Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 12:30 PM Subject: RE: Zenith701801-List: Rigging elevator? --> <Curt.Thompson@verizon.net> Art, I think you are right about the turnbuckle interference if I put them directly on the elevator horn. I see that now that I have started to install the cables. Curt


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:13:36 PM PST US
    From: "Les Goldner" <lgold@quantum-associates.com>
    Subject: Re: Need help with Matco wheel disassembly
    Rather than use the "ol'" roll-over-the-tire-with-your-car-trick, I prefer to use an inexpensive go cart tire changer to break the bead. I got it after destroying one aircraft rim with my car. You can get a cheap tire changer at http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=34552. Since I got the thing I have become very popular. All the guys in my club come to my hanger to pull their tires. Les -----Original Message----- From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Hoffman Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 3:18 AM Subject: Zenith701801-List: Re: Need help with Matco wheel disassembly <mhoffman9@tampabay.rr.com> I have broken down a dozen or so small aircraft tires and do this way. 1.Take the core out of the valve stem. 2.Set a piece of plywood on the driveway and set the wheel on it (plywood protects the rim). 3. Drive your car tire over the aircraft tire making sure you do not hit the rim but you are as close as you can get. 4. If it does not break loose, rotate the wheel and do it again. 5. Turn the wheel over and break the bead on the other side. 6. When both sides are broken free, remove the bolts and disassemble the wheel. 7. It may help if you spray soap and water or WD40 around the bead. 8. Be sure to use lots of soap and water on the bead when you reassemble it. I have also found after you reassemble it I over inflate it (I think to about 50 Lbs) to seat the tire on the wheel. Then let the air out to 20 or 25 lbs or what ever number you use. 9. Be sure you balance the wheel before to put it on the plane. If you don't do it now you will after you start your high speed taxi test and find the vibration. All my wheels were way off. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=267709#267709




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