Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:03 AM - Re Fuel return line on Rotax 912ULS - revisited (Peter Thomson)
2. 03:20 AM - Cowling Burnt by Exhaust (Mike Hoffman)
3. 03:54 AM - Re: Cowling Burnt by Exhaust (mksoucy@yahoo.com)
4. 05:07 AM - Re: adhesive (ejessee)
5. 06:58 AM - Re: Re: adhesive (MacDonald Doug)
6. 06:58 AM - Re: Cowling Burnt by Exhaust (n801bh@netzero.com)
7. 07:16 AM - Re: Re: adhesive (Curt Thompson)
8. 07:57 AM - Re: Fuel return line on Rotax 912ULS - revisited (Craig Payne)
9. 08:07 AM - Re: Cowling Burnt by Exhaust (LarryMcFarland)
10. 08:58 AM - Re: Fuel return line on Rotax 912ULS - revisited (Dan Wilde)
11. 12:05 PM - Re: Fuel return line on Rotax 912ULS - revisited (Clive Richards)
12. 12:09 PM - Re: adhesive (Clive Richards)
13. 12:17 PM - Fuel level sender and tank removal with 7-WTA-1 cover (kmccune)
14. 12:18 PM - Re: adhesive (ejessee)
15. 12:29 PM - Rudder cable tension (ejessee)
16. 01:26 PM - Re: Rudder cable tension. (Gary Gower)
17. 01:42 PM - Re: Re: adhesive (LarryMcFarland)
18. 11:41 PM - Re: adhesive (Craig Payne)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re Fuel return line on Rotax 912ULS - revisited |
Dan
I (and I suspect a lot of others) fly on 10% ethanol with no return
line, no problems.
There are various old wives tales here. Bing even made a float and
bowl kit for "additives". I heard such kit had new problems of its
own. Eventually Rotax came out for 10% with no changes.
Jabiru have a service letter on ethanol and this is the best treatment
I've seen. You can probably find it on their website www.jabiru.net.au
happy flying
Peter
CH701SP
Rotax 912ULS
Trio EZPilot
Thermostasis oil thermostat
Message 2
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| Subject: | Cowling Burnt by Exhaust |
This is a heads up when installing your cowling. Pay attention to the clearance
between the exhaust pipes and cowling at the forward most point.
After 7 hours of engine run time I have noticed the paint on the outside of the
cowling starting to blister about the size of a quarter. When I installed the
cowling I thought I had ample clearance (about 1 1/2 inches) but I found the
exhaust starting to burn the cowling on the inside.
This could have a disastrous effect if the cowling got hot enough to start a fire.
I have now wrapped both pipes (at the front ) with heat wrap exhaust tape
and put heat reflective pads on the inside of the cowling for additional protection
as well. These materials were bought from Summit Racing and were not very
expensive.
I have only run the engine on the ground for about 3/4 of am hour and and seems
to be the solution. I was called out of town for work and will continue to put
more time on it when I return.
Anyone else have this problem?
Mike Hoffman
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269033#269033
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Burnt by Exhaust |
I would also make sure the engine is not running to lean
Mike
Sent from my iPod
On Oct 23, 2009, at 6:20 AM, "Mike Hoffman" <mhoffman9@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
This is a heads up when installing your cowling. Pay attention to the clearance
between the exhaust pipes and cowling at the forward most point.
After 7 hours of engine run time I have noticed the paint on the outside of the
cowling starting to blister about the size of a quarter. When I installed the
cowling I thought I had ample clearance (about 1 1/2 inches) but I found the
exhaust starting to burn the cowling on the inside.
This could have a disastrous effect if the cowling got hot enough to start a fire.
I have now wrapped both pipes (at the front ) with heat wrap exhaust tape
and put heat reflective pads on the inside of the cowling for additional protection
as well. These materials were bought from Summit Racing and were not very
expensive.
I have only run the engine on the ground for about 3/4 of am hour and and seems
to be the solution. I was called out of town for work and will continue to put
more time on it when I return.
Anyone else have this problem?
Mike Hoffman
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269033#269033
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Tommy,
It was "Dennis" in Michigan. I did get your reply as well and as always.. thank
you. I think I'll go with the slightly larger trim if I can find the number.
I don't feel at liberty to post a full picture of his beautiful plane, but the
trim I am looking for is in the attachment.
Are there pictures of your plane on the forum? I don't remember seeing it.
Thanks again.
--------
Ernest Jessee
N4931M
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269042#269042
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/windowtrim_159.jpg
Message 5
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I got similar stuff to that from Aircraft Spruce. Don't recall the part number
though.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch Builder
NW Ontario, Canada
Do Not Archive
--- On Fri, 10/23/09, ejessee <eejessee@us.ibm.com> wrote:
> From: ejessee <eejessee@us.ibm.com>
> Subject: Zenith701801-List: Re: adhesive
> To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
> Received: Friday, October 23, 2009, 7:06 AM
> --> Zenith701801-List message
> posted by: "ejessee" <eejessee@us.ibm.com>
>
> Tommy,
> It was "Dennis" in Michigan. I did get your reply as
> well and as always.. thank you. I think I'll go with
> the slightly larger trim if I can find the number.
>
> I don't feel at liberty to post a full picture of his
> beautiful plane, but the trim I am looking for is in the
> attachment.
>
> Are there pictures of your plane on the forum? I
> don't remember seeing it.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> --------
> Ernest Jessee
> N4931M
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269042#269042
>
>
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/windowtrim_159.jpg
>
>
>
>
> Zenith701801-List Email Forum -
> FAQ,
> - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
> List Contribution Web Site -
> -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin.
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________________
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Burnt by Exhaust |
I have commented on this a few times.. Remember guys, when the EGT gauge
says the temp is 1400+f that is HOT... I have taken a IR temp gun and r
ead the numbers off a stove top burner on my electric stove. When glowin
g red hot it registers 1450f. We all know you can't hold your hand close
to this for even a second so when designing your firewall forward set u
p keep this in mind... Moral of the story is radiant heat needs to be de
alt with properly.
do not archive
Ben Haas
N801BH
www.haaspowerair.com
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Mike Hoffman" <mhoffman9@tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Zenith701801-List: Cowling Burnt by Exhaust
bay.rr.com>
This is a heads up when installing your cowling. Pay attention to the cl
earance between the exhaust pipes and cowling at the forward most point.
After 7 hours of engine run time I have noticed the paint on the outside
of the cowling starting to blister about the size of a quarter. When I
installed the cowling I thought I had ample clearance (about 1 1/2 inche
s) but I found the exhaust starting to burn the cowling on the inside.
This could have a disastrous effect if the cowling got hot enough to sta
rt a fire. I have now wrapped both pipes (at the front ) with heat wrap
exhaust tape and put heat reflective pads on the inside of the cowling f
or additional protection as well. These materials were bought from Summi
t Racing and were not very expensive.
I have only run the engine on the ground for about 3/4 of am hour and an
d seems to be the solution. I was called out of town for work and will c
ontinue to put more time on it when I return.
Anyone else have this problem?
Mike Hoffman
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269033#269033
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Message 7
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The part I used was ACS 05-01500 ($.97/ft). Pictures is attached.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/opencenter.php
I used Permatex #80328 Weatherstrip Cement to glue it in place. It did not
work. I'm looking for something better to glue it. Anyone know of
something that works?
Curt
Message 8
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| Subject: | Fuel return line on Rotax 912ULS - revisited |
You can build the equivalent of the official Rotax fuel manifold with parts
from Aircraft Spruce and McMaster-Carr. Look at their multi-port manifolds.
One tricky part is the restrictor on the return line. I think the Rotax
manuals call this out as a 0.030 inch pinhole. I intend to make mine by
filling a brass NPT nipple with solder and drilling a pinhole in it. The
manifold will be mounted vertically and the return line will come off of the
top of the manifold (like the Rotax one) since (as I understand it) in a
vapor lock situation what is being returned is vapor, not liquid fuel.
Another subtle point is that the lines to and from the mechanical fuels pump
have different IDs (1/4 inch in and 5/16ths out?).
On the 701 I won't be trying to return the fuel all the way to the wing
tanks. I'm running the return line to a multi-port manifold (also from
Spruce or McMaster) on the firewall where it will mix with cool fuel coming
from the tanks. I believe this is the way Quality Sport Planes plumbs their
701s.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of txpilot
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 8:29 PM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: Fuel return line on Rotax 912ULS - revisited
I just found out that Rotax has now approved autogas with 10% ethanol for
the 912 series engines. Since it seems 100LL will eventually be going away,
I have to revisit the question about the fuel return line from the fuel
manifold.
I was originally planning on running 100LL on my aircraft so I wasn't
concerned about vapor lock issues. Therefore, I never installed the return
line suggested by Rotax. However, since it seems the powers-that-be will
eventually force us to alternative fuels, I'm wondering if installing this
return line for running premium autogas would be a good idea. I just priced
the parts needed from Lockwood to install the fuel manifold and it comes to
a whopping $514.01.
Am I the only one concerned about this? Is anyone currently running autogas
without the return line?
Thanks,
Dan Ginty
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269003#269003
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cowling Burnt by Exhaust |
Yes Mike,
I tried to burn up my cowling in the first run ups and had to change
materials and also wrap the pipes.
Your exhaust needs to be 3/4-inch or more clear of the cowling, and when
its even that close it's a good idea to put in an aluminum
piece to get more clearance, like a bump-out or half tube like the one
seen on my cowling. The front end is open and allows air to
make the exhaust pipe area even cooler. A flange riveted behind each
side can be blended in with the fiberglass without problems.
Hard to even see them after you've painted.
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/radforwardfront.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/cowling/full/cowlfairingsinside.gif
http://www.macsmachine.com/images/completion/full/601ezclosefrtrt.gif
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com at 147 hours
Mike Hoffman wrote:
>
> This is a heads up when installing your cowling. Pay attention to the clearance
between the exhaust pipes and cowling at the forward most point.
>
> After 7 hours of engine run time I have noticed the paint on the outside of the
cowling starting to blister about the size of a quarter. When I installed the
cowling I thought I had ample clearance (about 1 1/2 inches) but I found the
exhaust starting to burn the cowling on the inside.
>
> This could have a disastrous effect if the cowling got hot enough to start a
fire. I have now wrapped both pipes (at the front ) with heat wrap exhaust tape
and put heat reflective pads on the inside of the cowling for additional protection
as well. These materials were bought from Summit Racing and were not very
expensive.
>
> I have only run the engine on the ground for about 3/4 of am hour and and seems
to be the solution. I was called out of town for work and will continue to
put more time on it when I return.
>
> Anyone else have this problem?
>
> Mike Hoffman
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel return line on Rotax 912ULS - revisited |
t
> Am I the only one concerned about this? Is anyone currently running autogas
without the return line?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan Ginty
>
I have been running premium autogas on my 912S (100HP) for over 90 hours
with no problems and I do not have a return line. I connected the fuel
lines per Zenith firewall forward instructions. All of my fuel lines
are enclosed in firesleeve which should help shield it from high temps.
Dan Wilde
701
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel return line on Rotax 912ULS - revisited |
Dan
Here in UK it is mandatory to install the return line to a fuel tank to use
auto gas as per Rotax instructions, but our CAA say we cannot use auto gas
if it contains alcohol unless we are a microlight.
Clive
----- Original Message -----
From: "txpilot" <djg7@comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 3:28 AM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: Fuel return line on Rotax 912ULS - revisited
>
> I just found out that Rotax has now approved autogas with 10% ethanol for
> the 912 series engines. Since it seems 100LL will eventually be going
> away, I have to revisit the question about the fuel return line from the
> fuel manifold.
>
> I was originally planning on running 100LL on my aircraft so I wasn't
> concerned about vapor lock issues. Therefore, I never installed the
> return line suggested by Rotax. However, since it seems the
> powers-that-be will eventually force us to alternative fuels, I'm
> wondering if installing this return line for running premium autogas would
> be a good idea. I just priced the parts needed from Lockwood to install
> the fuel manifold and it comes to a whopping $514.01.
>
> Am I the only one concerned about this? Is anyone currently running
> autogas without the return line?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dan Ginty
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269003#269003
>
>
>
Message 12
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Hi Ernest
Ray used Poly Zap on his 601as recomended on zenith list
some years ago
Clive
----- Original Message -----
From: "ejessee" <eejessee@us.ibm.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 9:43 PM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: adhesive
>
> I'm painting my 701 and putting all new rubber round wing roots,
> windshield, dash, etc.
>
> What sort of adhesive have you guys used to hold that rubber in place?
> Especially around the wing roots, it seems that something will be
> required.
>
>
> One more thing that is embarressing... Someone with a beautiful polished
> 701 gave me a McMaster Carr part number for their windshield trim. I have
> lost the email [Embarassed] If someone could tell me the part number
> for that windshield trim I am seeing from McMaster Carr, I would be
> greatful. I beg pardon for loosing it.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --------
> Ernest Jessee
> N4931M
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=268969#268969
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fuel level sender and tank removal with 7-WTA-1 cover |
What is the reason for moving the fuel sender to the side? It seams at the very
least more leak proof on top.
And for those with the optional 7-WTA-1 wing tank cover two questions:
Can you remove the tank easily through the opening?
Can you use two per wing for dual tanks?
I ask because I am thinking of a second set of covers just in case I want to add
a second set of tanks later.
Thanks
Kevin
--------
History is a great teacher if you take time to study it.
Steve Bennett
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269137#269137
Message 14
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Thanks.
Do you know if Poly Zap will work for gluing rubber to aluminum on wing roots?
again... thanks for responding.
--------
Ernest Jessee
N4931M
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269138#269138
Message 15
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| Subject: | Rudder cable tension |
I'm full of questions as I begin re-assembly after paint. Thanks for your patience.
Even before painting, I felt that my rudder cables might need to be tightened.
I have searched the forum. I found plans for a tension guage:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=55022&highlight=rudder+cable
However, I would have expected that even 10 lbs might be too much for the pullies
that the cables go through as they turn up toward the tail from level with
the floor.
Any pointers on setting this tension. Do I need to build this tension gage and
if so, what is correct tension? I have all the drawings, but have not located
any guidance on setting that tension.
--------
Ernest Jessee
N4931M
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269139#269139
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder cable tension. |
Hello Ernest,
-
Had the same thoughts as you about the pulleys, so I just used the "good en
ough" tension gauge built in my hands...-- :-)-- Just at the moment
the rudder looked firm when I tried the play...- Also check (while adjus
ting the tension) that the front wheel is straight when the-rudder is cen
tered.
-
Hope this helps.
Saludos
Gary Gower.
-
--- On Fri, 10/23/09, ejessee <eejessee@us.ibm.com> wrote:
From: ejessee <eejessee@us.ibm.com>
Subject: Zenith701801-List: Rudder cable tension
I'm full of questions as I begin re-assembly after paint.- Thanks for you
r patience.
Even before painting, I felt that my rudder cables might need to be tighten
ed.- I have searched the forum.- I found plans for a tension guage:-
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=55022&highlight=rudder+cabl
e
However, I would have expected that even 10 lbs might be too much for the p
ullies that the cables go through as they turn up toward the tail from leve
l with the floor.
Any pointers on setting this tension.- Do I need to build this tension ga
ge and if so, what is correct tension?- I have all the drawings, but have
not located any guidance on setting that tension.
--------
Ernest Jessee
N4931M
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=269139#269139
le, List Admin.
=0A=0A=0A
Message 17
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Curt,
You might look up a product called Poly Zap. That's what I used for my
acrylic to trim rubber and it works well
for 4 years now. Only takes a drop each inch or so to the bottom of the
groove.
Larry McFarland 601HDS at www.macsmachine.com
Curt Thompson wrote:
> The part I used was ACS 05-01500 ($.97/ft). Pictures is attached.
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/opencenter.php
>
> I used Permatex #80328 Weatherstrip Cement to glue it in place. It did not
> work. I'm looking for something better to glue it. Anyone know of
> something that works?
>
> Curt
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
Message 18
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Also as I recall you don't use a continuous bead. Instead use a drop every
inch or so.
-- Craig
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clive
Richards
Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: adhesive
<s.clive.richards@homecall.co.uk>
Hi Ernest
Ray used Poly Zap on his 601as recomended on zenith list
some years ago
Clive
----- Original Message -----
From: "ejessee" <eejessee@us.ibm.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2009 9:43 PM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: adhesive
>
> I'm painting my 701 and putting all new rubber round wing roots,
> windshield, dash, etc.
>
> What sort of adhesive have you guys used to hold that rubber in place?
> Especially around the wing roots, it seems that something will be
> required.
>
>
> One more thing that is embarressing... Someone with a beautiful polished
> 701 gave me a McMaster Carr part number for their windshield trim. I have
> lost the email [Embarassed] If someone could tell me the part number
> for that windshield trim I am seeing from McMaster Carr, I would be
> greatful. I beg pardon for loosing it.
>
> Thanks.
>
> --------
> Ernest Jessee
> N4931M
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=268969#268969
>
>
>
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