Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:24 AM - Re: My Torque Tube mods (Robert Pelland)
2. 05:28 AM - Re: My Torque Tube mods (Mark Sherman)
3. 05:35 AM - Re: My Torque Tube mods (Robert Pelland)
4. 07:26 AM - Fuel tank sender & gauge (stepinwolf)
5. 07:42 AM - Re: My Torque Tube mods (Curt Thompson)
6. 07:52 AM - Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge (David L. Orr)
7. 07:57 AM - Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge (MacDonald Doug)
8. 08:30 AM - Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge (BokKat)
9. 08:43 AM - Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge (Curt Thompson)
10. 04:54 PM - Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge (John Marzulli)
11. 06:40 PM - Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge (Ron Leclerc)
12. 07:31 PM - Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge (Robert Pelland)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: My Torque Tube mods |
Curt,
I am happy to see that the photo's I posted were of help to you.
However I must add that the modification you have just made, is much
better then the original photos I sent you. Great job,, :o)
Robert Pelland
----- Original Message -----
From: Curt Thompson
To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 11:30 PM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: My Torque Tube mods
I think I'm nearly done with my 7C2-2 torque tube mods to create a
stationary horizontal tail bellcrank (7C1-1). Still need to paint.
Here is a link to some pictures of it:
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee150/charlievictor102/CH701%20Modifie
d%20Torque%20Tube/
The password is "airplane"
Here is what I did:
1. I cut the Torque Tube (7C2-2) in half and trimmed off about 20mm
from the rear end.
2. I replaced the Rear Torque Tube Bearing (7F6-2) with an equivalent
piece of 4130N 0.050 sheet.
3. I welded the rear part of the cut Torque Tube to the new steel
7F6-2.
4. I machined a new tube that fits inside of the Torque Tube. Using
the lathe I turned down a 4130N 1.125"x0.083"x0.959" tube so that it
fitted inside the Torque Tube. I had to use some valve lapping compound
to knock off the bumps from the welds in the Torque Tube.
5. At the rear end of this inside tube, I welded a new place similar
to 7C2-3.
6. I machined a nylon spacer to go over the inside tube.
7. When the assembly is put together, the inside tube is bolted to
the front part of the original Torque Tube.
8. I made a new Pitch Control Rod (7C1-3) so I could attach CW-5-12
rod ends to both ends.
So now when the control stick is moved left/right the location of the
Horizontal Tail Bellcrank (7C1-1) does not move. I should be able to
keep the elevator cables pretty tight and not have the tightness change
as I move the aileron. Also, I should not have to worry about the
cables interfering. All academic at this point since I haven't actually
flown it yet.
Thanks to Robert Pelland who posted pictures here about a month ago.
I got some ideas from his pictures.
Curt Thompson
Plans Building CH701
Redmond, WA, USA
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| Subject: | Re: My Torque Tube mods |
Curt.
Airplane doesn't get me in.
Mark S.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Curt Thompson
To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 8:30 PM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: My Torque Tube mods
I think I'm nearly done with my 7C2-2 torque tube mods to create a
stationary horizontal tail bellcrank (7C1-1). Still need to paint.
Here is a link to some pictures of it:
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee150/charlievictor102/CH701%20Modifie
d%20Torque%20Tube/
The password is "airplane"
Here is what I did:
1. I cut the Torque Tube (7C2-2) in half and trimmed off about 20mm
from the rear end.
2. I replaced the Rear Torque Tube Bearing (7F6-2) with an equivalent
piece of 4130N 0.050 sheet.
3. I welded the rear part of the cut Torque Tube to the new steel
7F6-2.
4. I machined a new tube that fits inside of the Torque Tube. Using
the lathe I turned down a 4130N 1.125"x0.083"x0.959" tube so that it
fitted inside the Torque Tube. I had to use some valve lapping compound
to knock off the bumps from the welds in the Torque Tube.
5. At the rear end of this inside tube, I welded a new place similar
to 7C2-3.
6. I machined a nylon spacer to go over the inside tube.
7. When the assembly is put together, the inside tube is bolted to
the front part of the original Torque Tube.
8. I made a new Pitch Control Rod (7C1-3) so I could attach CW-5-12
rod ends to both ends.
So now when the control stick is moved left/right the location of the
Horizontal Tail Bellcrank (7C1-1) does not move. I should be able to
keep the elevator cables pretty tight and not have the tightness change
as I move the aileron. Also, I should not have to worry about the
cables interfering. All academic at this point since I haven't actually
flown it yet.
Thanks to Robert Pelland who posted pictures here about a month ago.
I got some ideas from his pictures.
Curt Thompson
Plans Building CH701
Redmond, WA, USA
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| Subject: | Re: My Torque Tube mods |
Mark,
Check your "caps lock" or spelling, since " airplane " got me in just
fine.
Good luck
Robert
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Sherman
To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: My Torque Tube mods
Curt.
Airplane doesn't get me in.
Mark S.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Curt Thompson
To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 13, 2010 8:30 PM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: My Torque Tube mods
I think I'm nearly done with my 7C2-2 torque tube mods to create a
stationary horizontal tail bellcrank (7C1-1). Still need to paint.
Here is a link to some pictures of it:
http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/ee150/charlievictor102/CH701%20Modifie
d%20Torque%20Tube/
The password is "airplane"
Here is what I did:
1. I cut the Torque Tube (7C2-2) in half and trimmed off about 20mm
from the rear end.
2. I replaced the Rear Torque Tube Bearing (7F6-2) with an
equivalent piece of 4130N 0.050 sheet.
3. I welded the rear part of the cut Torque Tube to the new steel
7F6-2.
4. I machined a new tube that fits inside of the Torque Tube.
Using the lathe I turned down a 4130N 1.125"x0.083"x0.959" tube so that
it fitted inside the Torque Tube. I had to use some valve lapping
compound to knock off the bumps from the welds in the Torque Tube.
5. At the rear end of this inside tube, I welded a new place
similar to 7C2-3.
6. I machined a nylon spacer to go over the inside tube.
7. When the assembly is put together, the inside tube is bolted to
the front part of the original Torque Tube.
8. I made a new Pitch Control Rod (7C1-3) so I could attach CW-5-12
rod ends to both ends.
So now when the control stick is moved left/right the location of
the Horizontal Tail Bellcrank (7C1-1) does not move. I should be able
to keep the elevator cables pretty tight and not have the tightness
change as I move the aileron. Also, I should not have to worry about
the cables interfering. All academic at this point since I haven't
actually flown it yet.
Thanks to Robert Pelland who posted pictures here about a month ago.
I got some ideas from his pictures.
Curt Thompson
Plans Building CH701
Redmond, WA, USA
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith701801-List">http://www.
matronics.com/Navigator?Zenith701801-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fuel tank sender & gauge |
I have a friend who is a professional welder, and has offered to weld up my fuel
tanks for the 701 & 750 I am scratching. I need to source all the associated
parts so that everything can be done right, and more importantly at the same
time.
I have looked at the various suppliers, and can't find any mention of the # 226-002
sender that is referenced in the Zenith plans, so I was wondering what most
builders were using, and if they were satisfied with their choices of senders,
and associated fuel gauges.
Also, most of the generic senders I have seen so far ( Summit Racing, Jeg's, etc.
) all have a 180 degree sweep, and was wondering how this would work, since
the Zenith tank's are relatively low in height and I can't see the float rod
on the sender, make the 180 degree sweep in such a restricted space.
Lastly, top mount or side, why the different installation procedures. ?
A big thank you to those who will take the time to respond to my concerns
Robert
The 701 & 750 scratch
--------
Live each day, as if it was your last
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281446#281446
Message 5
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| Subject: | My Torque Tube mods |
Thanks Robert. I was thinking about how to do this before I saw your
pictures. What I had in mind was a lot more complicated than what you had.
One change that I wish I had made to mine was to tilt the tail bellcrank a
few degrees CW (looking for the rear). This would keep the elevator cables
a little further apart.
Curt
_____
From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Pelland
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 5:23 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: My Torque Tube mods
Curt,
I am happy to see that the photo's I posted were of help to you. However I
must add that the modification you have just made, is much better then the
original photos I sent you. Great job,, :o)
Robert Pelland
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge |
The Sending unit that came with my 701 kit is made by VDO, part number# 221-012D,
V1551001209D (Fuel Sender for VW Beetle).
David L. Orr
EAA Chapter 430
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge |
Robert, my understanding is that the Zenith kit supplied senders and gauges are
from VDO. They were originally for a Volkswagon Golf or Rabbit. Make sure that
you buy your gauges and senders at the same time. I had used fuel gauges
from an older kit and had to buy new ones becasue they worked backwards to the
current version of senders. I think the sweep of the sender unit is something
like 90 degrees.
As for top or side mounting. I mounted mine on the side but have not fueled my
plane yet so I cannot speak as to how well they will work. Top mounting usually
requires a cuttout in the skin and a dome cover. But since you are having
your tanks custom made, you could make a recess for the sender so that it fits
under the skin.
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 Scratch builder
NW Ontario, Canada
Do Not Archive
--- On Thu, 1/14/10, stepinwolf <robert.pelland@cgocable.ca> wrote:
> From: stepinwolf <robert.pelland@cgocable.ca>
> Subject: Zenith701801-List: Fuel tank sender & gauge
> To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
> Received: Thursday, January 14, 2010, 9:25 AM
> --> Zenith701801-List message
> posted by: "stepinwolf" <robert.pelland@cgocable.ca>
>
> I have a friend who is a professional welder, and has
> offered to weld up my fuel tanks for the 701 & 750 I am
> scratching. I need to source all the associated parts
> so that everything can be done right, and more importantly
> at the same time.
>
> I have looked at the various suppliers, and can't find any
> mention of the # 226-002 sender that is referenced in the
> Zenith plans, so I was wondering what most builders were
> using, and if they were satisfied with their choices of
> senders, and associated fuel gauges.
>
> Also, most of the generic senders I have seen so far (
> Summit Racing, Jeg's, etc. ) all have a 180 degree
> sweep, and was wondering how this would work, since the
> Zenith tank's are relatively low in height and I can't see
> the float rod on the sender, make the 180 degree sweep in
> such a restricted space.
>
> Lastly, top mount or side, why the different installation
> procedures. ?
>
> A big thank you to those who will take the time to respond
> to my concerns
>
> Robert
> The 701 & 750 scratch
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
http://www.flickr.com/gift/
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge |
The original senders (resistance type) supplied by Zenith works fine on my
Dynon unit. I mounted them through the top as recommended by Zenith.
With the Dynon, when you first fuel up, you calibrate them by telling the
Dynon that the tank is empty, then add a gallon of gas and tell it you've
added a gallon, then add another gallon, etc. till they are full. (10
gallons) I think there are two types of sending units, resistance types
and capacitor type, and you tell the unit what you are using. The moving
float type I think are always resistance units.
The VDO fuel gauges likely work with the sending resistance based units from
Zenith. As I have four fuel tanks and I used the Dynon 180 I have four VDO
fuel gauges if anyone wants them. Anyone want them I'll send them to you
for just the price of shipping, which wouldn't be very high. You are
welcome to them.
No commercial, but I sure love that Dynon 180!
Do not archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MacDonald Doug" <dougsnash@yahoo.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 9:56 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: Fuel tank sender & gauge
> <dougsnash@yahoo.com>
>
> Robert, my understanding is that the Zenith kit supplied senders and
> gauges are from VDO. They were originally for a Volkswagon Golf or
> Rabbit. Make sure that you buy your gauges and senders at the same time.
> I had used fuel gauges from an older kit and had to buy new ones becasue
> they worked backwards to the current version of senders. I think the
> sweep of the sender unit is something like 90 degrees.
>
> As for top or side mounting. I mounted mine on the side but have not
> fueled my plane yet so I cannot speak as to how well they will work. Top
> mounting usually requires a cuttout in the skin and a dome cover. But
> since you are having your tanks custom made, you could make a recess for
> the sender so that it fits under the skin.
>
> Doug MacDonald
> CH-701 Scratch builder
> NW Ontario, Canada
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> --- On Thu, 1/14/10, stepinwolf <robert.pelland@cgocable.ca> wrote:
>
>> From: stepinwolf <robert.pelland@cgocable.ca>
>> Subject: Zenith701801-List: Fuel tank sender & gauge
>> To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
>> Received: Thursday, January 14, 2010, 9:25 AM
>> --> Zenith701801-List message
>> posted by: "stepinwolf" <robert.pelland@cgocable.ca>
>>
>> I have a friend who is a professional welder, and has
>> offered to weld up my fuel tanks for the 701 & 750 I am
>> scratching. I need to source all the associated parts
>> so that everything can be done right, and more importantly
>> at the same time.
>>
>> I have looked at the various suppliers, and can't find any
>> mention of the # 226-002 sender that is referenced in the
>> Zenith plans, so I was wondering what most builders were
>> using, and if they were satisfied with their choices of
>> senders, and associated fuel gauges.
>>
>> Also, most of the generic senders I have seen so far (
>> Summit Racing, Jeg's, etc. ) all have a 180 degree
>> sweep, and was wondering how this would work, since the
>> Zenith tank's are relatively low in height and I can't see
>> the float rod on the sender, make the 180 degree sweep in
>> such a restricted space.
>>
>> Lastly, top mount or side, why the different installation
>> procedures. ?
>>
>> A big thank you to those who will take the time to respond
>> to my concerns
>>
>> Robert
>> The 701 & 750 scratch
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________
> Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr!
>
> http://www.flickr.com/gift/
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Fuel tank sender & gauge |
Robert,
I used the VDO senders others have mentions on this thread. Bought them
from some off-road vehicle supply place (can't remember who).
One thing I would recommend. I made the hole for the sender a little
smaller than normal. Normally, you need to make them big enough to fish a
ring through. Then machine screws bolt through the sender and thread into
the ring on the inside. With the hole the normal size, there is not much
area for the gasket to seal. Before I made my tank, I machines a smaller
ring (just using a couple of hole saws) and ProSealed it to the inside.
This was before the tank was assembled. Now I have a larger gasket area to
seal the sender from leaks. No need to fish that ring through the hole
(kind of a pain to do). You could probably weld that ring in place too.
BTW, I glued my tanks like the Van's RV guys do (Proseal == Black Death).
It passed a three day "balloon" pressure test. We'll see in actual real
operation.
I won a couple of fuel gauges from John Marzulli at our EAA chapter "White
Elephant" gift exchange. I'll also send them to anyone for the price of
shipping.
Curt
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
stepinwolf
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 7:26 AM
Subject: Zenith701801-List: Fuel tank sender & gauge
<robert.pelland@cgocable.ca>
I have a friend who is a professional welder, and has offered to weld up my
fuel tanks for the 701 & 750 I am scratching. I need to source all the
associated parts so that everything can be done right, and more importantly
at the same time.
I have looked at the various suppliers, and can't find any mention of the #
226-002 sender that is referenced in the Zenith plans, so I was wondering
what most builders were using, and if they were satisfied with their choices
of senders, and associated fuel gauges.
Also, most of the generic senders I have seen so far ( Summit Racing, Jeg's,
etc. ) all have a 180 degree sweep, and was wondering how this would work,
since the Zenith tank's are relatively low in height and I can't see the
float rod on the sender, make the 180 degree sweep in such a restricted
space.
Lastly, top mount or side, why the different installation procedures. ?
A big thank you to those who will take the time to respond to my concerns
Robert
The 701 & 750 scratch
--------
Live each day, as if it was your last
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281446#281446
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge |
EAA: The spirit of sharing parts you don't need. ;-)
John Marzulli
http://www.GenevieveMarzulli.org/
http://MarzulliPhoto.net/
http://701Builder.blogspot.com/
On Thu, Jan 14, 2010 at 8:43 AM, Curt Thompson <Curt.Thompson@verizon.net>wrote:
> Curt.Thompson@verizon.net>
>
> Robert,
>
> I used the VDO senders others have mentions on this thread. Bought them
> from some off-road vehicle supply place (can't remember who).
>
> One thing I would recommend. I made the hole for the sender a little
> smaller than normal. Normally, you need to make them big enough to fish a
> ring through. Then machine screws bolt through the sender and thread into
> the ring on the inside. With the hole the normal size, there is not much
> area for the gasket to seal. Before I made my tank, I machines a smaller
> ring (just using a couple of hole saws) and ProSealed it to the inside.
> This was before the tank was assembled. Now I have a larger gasket area to
> seal the sender from leaks. No need to fish that ring through the hole
> (kind of a pain to do). You could probably weld that ring in place too.
>
> BTW, I glued my tanks like the Van's RV guys do (Proseal == Black Death).
> It passed a three day "balloon" pressure test. We'll see in actual real
> operation.
>
> I won a couple of fuel gauges from John Marzulli at our EAA chapter "White
> Elephant" gift exchange. I'll also send them to anyone for the price of
> shipping.
>
> Curt
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-zenith701801-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> stepinwolf
> Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 7:26 AM
> To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Zenith701801-List: Fuel tank sender & gauge
>
> <robert.pelland@cgocable.ca>
>
> I have a friend who is a professional welder, and has offered to weld up my
> fuel tanks for the 701 & 750 I am scratching. I need to source all the
> associated parts so that everything can be done right, and more importantly
> at the same time.
>
> I have looked at the various suppliers, and can't find any mention of the #
> 226-002 sender that is referenced in the Zenith plans, so I was wondering
> what most builders were using, and if they were satisfied with their
> choices
> of senders, and associated fuel gauges.
>
> Also, most of the generic senders I have seen so far ( Summit Racing,
> Jeg's,
> etc. ) all have a 180 degree sweep, and was wondering how this would work,
> since the Zenith tank's are relatively low in height and I can't see the
> float rod on the sender, make the 180 degree sweep in such a restricted
> space.
>
> Lastly, top mount or side, why the different installation procedures. ?
>
> A big thank you to those who will take the time to respond to my concerns
>
> Robert
> The 701 & 750 scratch
>
> --------
> Live each day, as if it was your last
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281446#281446
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge |
Hey Robert...
For VDO fuel gauges and senders go to http://www.egauges.com/ and select
part numbers: These are VW parts... and spec. by Zenith.
Sender: 221-012
Install Kit: 226-452
Gauge: 301-020
The gauge and sender must match...
Ron Leclerc
:-(
:-(
:-( I have a friend who is a professional welder, and has offered to
:-( weld up my fuel tanks for the 701 & 750 I am scratching. I need
:-( to source all the associated parts so that everything can be done
:-( right, and more importantly at the same time.
:-(
:-( I have looked at the various suppliers, and can't find any
:-( mention of the # 226-002 sender that is referenced in the Zenith
:-( plans, so I was wondering what most builders were using, and if
:-( they were satisfied with their choices of senders, and associated
:-( fuel gauges.
:-(
:-( Also, most of the generic senders I have seen so far ( Summit
:-( Racing, Jeg's, etc. ) all have a 180 degree sweep, and was
:-( wondering how this would work, since the Zenith tank's are
:-( relatively low in height and I can't see the float rod on the
:-( sender, make the 180 degree sweep in such a restricted space.
:-(
:-( Lastly, top mount or side, why the different installation
:-( procedures. ?
:-(
:-( A big thank you to those who will take the time to respond to my
:-( concerns
:-(
:-( Robert
:-( The 701 & 750 scratch
:-(
:-( --------
:-( Live each day, as if it was your last
:-(
:-(
:-( Read this topic online here:
:-(
:-( http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=281446#281446
:-(
:-(
:-( = - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
:-( your generous support!
:-( -> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank sender & gauge |
BobKat, PM sent to you at thr following bobkat@btinet.net
----- Original Message -----
From: BokKat
To: zenith701801-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 11:27 AM
Subject: Re: Zenith701801-List: Fuel tank sender & gauge
As I have four fuel tanks and I used the Dynon 180 I have four VDO
fuel gauges if anyone wants them. Anyone want them I'll send them to
you
for just the price of shipping, which wouldn't be very high. You are
welcome to them.
No commercial, but I sure love that Dynon 180!
Do not archive.
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