Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:43 AM - Priming (Perry Delano)
2. 10:12 AM - Re: Priming (Carlos Sa)
3. 11:23 AM - Re: Priming (MacDonald Doug)
4. 03:02 PM - Re: Tail feather open spaces (ronlee)
Message 1
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As per a previous message I am going to use ZC to prime/rust protect
internal/mating sections of the plane only.
It is becoming apparent that;
. removing the part sticker from the part and cleaning the residue
. washing down the part with some kind of solvent
. scotchbriting the part
. washing it down again
. drying it off
. and finally priming the part
In my basement garage/workshop is going to take more time than I would like
and expose myself and family to fumes
from the solvent and primer. Fooling around with solvents, Painting and
Glueing are some of my least favourite tasks and
the reason I went with the all metal riveted, slab sided 701. Can anybody
give me some advice on how to keep the fun in the
building process and still have a finished product that one can feel
comfortable is going to be corrosion resistant. I live on
the west coast of Canada so landing on some remote beaches is part of the
dream.
Another question, why in the world would zenith make those part stickers so
hard to remove?
The thinner for the ZC is a methyl ethyl keytone @#$^ something or
other, but smells like acetone/finger nail polish remover.
Regards,
Perry
Message 2
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Perry, I think the fumes can be minimized if you use thinner only for the
sticker, then scrub the part and wash with some household detergent.
However, the zinc chromate step is what it is - if you are applying it with
aerosol or spray, then it's worse.
I use disposable foam "brushes". But, until the part dries, the fumes /
smell will be around.
Alternatives were discussed here over the years, I am sure you can find the
m
in the archives (also the RV archives).
Epoxy-based primers come to mind, but I have no idea if they release fumes
or not (I would guess not, as they "dry" by polymerization, not
evaporation).
Good luck
Carlos
CH601-HD, plans
Montreal
On 10 May 2011 12:40, Perry Delano <pdelano@telus.net> wrote:
> As per a previous message I am going to use ZC to prime/rust protect
> internal/mating sections of the plane only.
>
>
> It is becoming apparent that;
>
>
> =B7 removing the part sticker from the part and cleaning the resi
due
>
> =B7 washing down the part with some kind of solvent
>
> =B7 scotchbriting the part
>
> =B7 washing it down again
>
> =B7 drying it off
>
> =B7 and finally priming the part
>
>
> In my basement garage/workshop is going to take more time than I would li
ke
> and expose myself and family to fumes
>
> from the solvent and primer. Fooling around with solvents, Painting and
> Glueing are some of my least favourite tasks and
>
> the reason I went with the all metal riveted, slab sided 701. Can anybody
> give me some advice on how to keep the fun in the
>
> building process and still have a finished product that one can feel
> comfortable is going to be corrosion resistant. I live on
>
> the west coast of Canada so landing on some remote beaches is part of the
> dream.
>
>
> Another question, why in the world would zenith make those part stickers
so
> hard to remove?
>
>
> The thinner for the ZC is a methyl ethyl keytone @#$^ something or
>
> other, but smells like acetone/finger nail polish remover.
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Perry* *
>
Message 3
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Perry, you just said the magic word, Canada.
-
One of the check boxes on the MD-RA pre-closure inspection forms is, "Are a
ll interior surfaces protected from environmental deterioration?" or someth
ing to that effect.- If you choose not to prime all of interior surfaces
of your aircraft then you are going to have to convince your MD-RA inspecto
r that it is not necessary.- Yes, you will have to deal with the MD-RA as
Transport Canada no longer inspects homebuilts.
-
Before-everyone gets into a debate about the corrosion resistance propert
ies of 6061-T6, please keep in mind this is more of a political issue-tha
n a scientific one.- While your inspector is the one that looks at your p
lane, he has to send your paperwork to the regional inspector.- The regio
nal inspector is the one that has to make the decision whether to pass your
plane based on the field inspectors information.- If there is any questi
on about the priming, then the regional inspector might take considerably l
onger processing your paperwork than if the priming is done.-
-
Is full sheet priming encessary for Zenith kits? -I don't know.- Is it
easier to get your Special-Airworthiness Certificate here in Canada if it
is primed?- Absolutely.- But ultimately, if in doubt, talk to your ins
pector.
-
Doug MacDonald
CH-701 from scratch
NW Ontario, Canada
-
Do Not Archive
--- On Tue, 5/10/11, Perry Delano <pdelano@telus.net> wrote:
From: Perry Delano <pdelano@telus.net>
Subject: Zenith701801-List: Priming
Received: Tuesday, May 10, 2011, 11:40 AM
As per a previous message I am going to use ZC to prime/rust protect intern
al/mating sections of the plane only.
-
It is becoming apparent that;
-
=B7-------- removing the part sticker from the part and cle
aning the residue
=B7-------- washing down the part with some kind of solvent
=B7-------- scotchbriting the part
=B7-------- washing it down again
=B7-------- drying it off
=B7-------- and finally priming the part
-
In my basement garage/workshop is going to take more time than I would like
and expose myself and family to fumes
from the solvent and primer. Fooling around with solvents, Painting and Glu
eing are some of my least favourite tasks and
the reason I went with the all metal riveted, slab sided 701. Can anybody g
ive me some advice on how to keep the fun in the
building process and still have a finished product that one can feel comfor
table is going to be corrosion resistant. I live on
the west coast of Canada so landing on some remote beaches is part of the d
ream.
-
Another question, why in the world would zenith make those part stickers so
hard to remove?
-
-
The thinner for the ZC is a methyl ethyl keytone @#$^ something or
other, but smells like acetone/finger nail polish remover.
-
Regards,
-
Perry
-
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Tail feather open spaces |
When doing slow flight near a stall be sure NOT to use the ailerons to keep it
level. Use ONLY the rudder or one can end up upside down in a heartbeat, that
goes for any airplane
--------
Ron Lee
Tucson, Arizona
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http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=339482#339482
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