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Rcaprd(at)aol.com
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 Posted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 9:32 pm Post subject: Engine Mount |
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I've now got the fuselage all welded up, and starting on the engine mount and empenage. I bought the dynafocal portion of the mount from AS&S. I have the C. Leblanc plans for the Lyc O-320 engine mount, as well as all Jim C. pictures, all the Tailwind Times, and every other picture I could find on the Internet, including the 'Construction Photo Guide, and I can't find anything that shows clear detail how to do the bottom lugs of the engine mount.
There is a vertical 7/8 X .049 which intersects the top lug .31" aft of the firewall, but I just can't see how these tubes attach to the bottom lugs. It's hard to tell how the bottom horizontal 7/8 tubes attach to the lugs, as well. Anyone have any pictures of this ?
I disassembled the engine today, but I can't get the case halves apart. I am sure I've got all the bolts out, including the castle nut behind the cam gear. Anyone have tricks to get it apart without damage ?
Chuck G.
NX770CG
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JRoss10612(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 4:46 am Post subject: Engine Mount |
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Chuck:
Not sure about the engine mount lugs, Jim C. can answer this.
As far as the engine case, it is the through studs that are causing the case halves to stay together. This is a press fit on the stud and case, and they can be driven out with a tool. Mattituck uses a special tool that threads on to the stud; it is about 1.5 inches in diameter and about four inches long, made of steel, threaded on one end to accept the stud threads. The idea is to drive the stud out and not damage the case or stud threads.
If you have access to a lathe you can make this tool fairly easily. I have seen people drive the studs out using a nut on the end of the stud and tapping it with a brass hammer. that's a risky way to proceed and I don't recommend it. Keep track of which stud comes out of which location because they may not all be the same diameter. This is a press fit, and one or more studs in your engine may be oversize. When this stud is not a tight fit it will cause oil leaks. There is a mod you can do to the case to include O rings in the case halves during assembly.
Best regards,
Jon Ross
RV-8
Tailwind wannabe
| Quote: | I've now got the fuselage all welded up, and starting on the engine mount and empenage. I bought the dynafocal portion of the mount from AS&S. I have the C. Leblanc plans for the Lyc O-320 engine mount, as well as all Jim C. pictures, all the Tailwind Times, and every other picture I could find on the Internet, including the 'Construction Photo Guide, and I can't find anything that shows clear detail how to do the bottom lugs of the engine mount.
There is a vertical 7/8 X .049 which intersects the top lug .31" aft of the firewall, but I just can't see how these tubes attach to the bottom lugs. It's hard to tell how the bottom horizontal 7/8 tubes attach to the lugs, as well. Anyone have any pictures of this ?
I disassembled the engine today, but I can't get the case halves apart. I am sure I've got all the bolts out, including the castle nut behind the cam gear. Anyone have tricks to get it apart without damage ?
Chuck G.
NX770CG
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Rcaprd(at)AOL.COM
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| Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 2:15 pm Post subject: Engine Mount |
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In a message dated 7/10/2006 7:47:43 AM Central Standard Time, JRoss10612(at)aol.com writes:
| Quote: | Chuck:
Not sure about the engine mount lugs, Jim C. can answer this.
As far as the engine case, it is the through studs that are causing the case halves to stay together. This is a press fit on the stud and case, and they can be driven out with a tool. Mattituck uses a special tool that threads on to the stud; it is about 1.5 inches in diameter and about four inches long, made of steel, threaded on one end to accept the stud threads. The idea is to drive the stud out and not damage the case or stud threads.
If you have access to a lathe you can make this tool fairly easily. I have seen people drive the studs out using a nut on the end of the stud and tapping it with a brass hammer. that's a risky way to proceed and I don't recommend it. Keep track of which stud comes out of which location because they may not all be the same diameter. This is a press fit, and one or more studs in your engine may be oversize. When this stud is not a tight fit it will cause oil leaks. There is a mod you can do to the case to include O rings in the case halves during assembly.
Best regards,
Jon Ross
RV-8
Tailwind wannabe
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Jon,
I was afraid someone would say I need a special tool. It's not clear to me how this tool works. Do you just keep tightening the tool, till the stud pulls through ? There are two studs on the Aft #2 cylinder that go through to the fwd of #3 cylinder. Are these two center studs the ones you are referring to ? If that is the case, then when torqueing the nuts, they would have to be done evenly, at the same time, or you may pull the stud from side to side. There are two studs that have nuts on them, on the Forward Left Hand Case, but are threaded into the other case half. Then there is two studs on the aft of #4 that go through to the other case half. The remaining studs end in the case at the cylinder holes.
Chuck G.
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JRoss10612(at)aol.com
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| Posted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 4:51 pm Post subject: Engine Mount |
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Chuck:
You've got it right, mostly anyway. The tool is used as a threaded weight that is hit with a hammer to drive the stud out. The stud is machined to a close tolerance slightly larger diameter in the middle, when you drive it down about 1/2" or so it will come loose from the machined bore in the case.
You could use lubricated washers on the studs and pull them out by tightening the nut. But you'll have to keep taking the nut off and adding more washers/spacers so that the threads don't bottom out. You can use the same method to install the through studs, just make sure they are even. The Lycoming tool gets it right the first time when you thread it on the stud to a specified depth and drive it till its all the way against the case.
You are very correct in your observation about when the studs are torqued. This must be done evenly from both sides of the engine. Lycoming has a service instruction on this very issue; see attached.
It's very important that the studs and hole in the case have the proper fit, or you'll end up with an oil leak.
Hope this helps,
Jon Ross
| Quote: | Jon,
I was afraid someone would say I need a special tool. It's not clear to me how this tool works. Do you just keep tightening the tool, till the stud pulls through ? There are two studs on the Aft #2 cylinder that go through to the fwd of #3 cylinder. Are these two center studs the ones you are referring to ? If that is the case, then when torqueing the nuts, they would have to be done evenly, at the same time, or you may pull the stud from side to side. There are two studs that have nuts on them, on the Forward Left Hand Case, but are threaded into the other case half. Then there is two studs on the aft of #4 that go through to the other case half. The remaining studs end in the case at the cylinder holes.
Chuck G.
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