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		Mauledriver(at)nc.rr.com Guest
 
 
 
 
 
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				 Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 12:10 pm    Post subject: Battery charger/minder/tender - redux | 
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				* warning - slightly off topic*
        I left several cars idle for a month and was rather upset when my       wife's new Miata's battery was 'dead'.  Clearly a parasitic load       was involved and that would seem to be a defect.  Then after       considering all the electrical tricks this particular car plays       (e.g. the electric windows are slightly nudged each time a door is       opened or closed in order to get a good seal with the retractable       roof) I thought, "of course there are parasitic loads, and they       may be a bit more than the electric clock in my Dad's old DeSoto".
        
        I'm thinking that just about any modern car has some parasitic       loads.  I have a mid-90s Caravan for occasional junk hauling that       has weathered a few parasitic load problems like a trailer brake.        Even with all those cleared I know  that the transmission can be       reset by disconnecting the battery, so there must be some very       small loads designed in.
        
        So while I know I don't need a minder for my 680s, I think I'm       getting one for the Miata since there is a tendency to not put       many miles on it in the winter.
        
        And I guess it's okay to use my Schumacher SC3 for an occasional       charge of my 680s.  Even though the charger doesn't have settings       for AGM versus Lead Acid, versus Gel, it does specifically state       it is good for AGMs.
        
        
        On 12/14/2017 9:53 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
      
       	  | Quote: | 	 		                Having ruined a number of 680s during         my 10 year odyssey, I've come to the same conclusions as Kelly         has below.  I'm a bit late to this discussion but here one thing         I have empirical evidence for; undercharging these batteries         will slowly kill them, slowly but inevitably.  
          
          Three things I KNOW will do this is 
                     -  Inadequate voltage in aircraft charging circuit (read the             spec sheet and obey it).  This seems straight forward but do             check that the voltage you are displaying is the voltage the             battery sees.  I was measuring the voltage for my two             charging circuits in two different places (EIS and EFIS).              Turned out one was accurate and one was not.
                        -  Old battery tenders/minders not intended for AGM             batteries.  During my build, I had a few left over from my             gel cell days in gliders.  They will not adequately charge a             discharged 680 but it takes about 1.2 years to discover             that.   I'm not sure, but using an old one to just maintain             is worse than throwing the old thing away.  If there are              tenders/minders on the market now that are unsuitable for             AGM batteries, I wouldn't know, but see Kelly's points below             - you just don't need one, you need an AGM capable charger.
                        -  Parasitic loads when not in use.  My load was fully             documented; the clocks in my (3) GRT EFISs (this has since             been eliminated thru an enlightened SW upgrade).  It was a             very small load but it was 3X a small load. I have 2             batteries but the load was connected to only one, which made             diagnosis easier but more expensive.  Why is such a small             load in a frequently flown plane such a problem?  Didn't             grandpa drive cars with electric clocks?  That didn't seem             to be a problem.  Well it was occasionally a problem.  And             with AGMs, a parasitic load seems to be equivalent to             undercharging it; the battery is sits in a slowly declining             state then is undercharged the next time it gets hit with             the starter load.  I don't know whether that is actually the             mechnism but I KNOW a parasitic load will slowly,             inevitably, kill a 680 or 2.  I guess you could keep it on             an AGM certified minder/tender but I'd suggest hunting down             the load and killing it.
                                Things will work just fine with any 3 of these conditions for         1-2 years then they won't.  It's a slow death that may mystify         you for $awhile$.  I have a boat but 680s make lousy anchors.
          
          Speaking of boats, my little jon boat is parked next to my '10.          The Walmart/Schumacher charger with settings for AGM, Lead and         Gel Cell(?) batteries worked fine until I apparently wore it out         charging the lead acid trolling motor battery every other day.          I'm going to separate chargers as a result.
          
          Regarding 'empirical evidence'; label, log and track your         batteries, especially if you have 2 of the same installed like I         do in my Z-14 scheme.  That data is the key to figuring out         whether you have slow death problems or not and what might be         causing them.  Problems are easily mitigated with a dual         batt/alt/bus Z-14 which is good and bad.  It can delay diagnosis         of electrical system problems because they aren't so critical.          Which means that you can kill 2 batteries with one problem         before you decide to act.
          
          Bill "I KNOW is shorthand for 'ask me how I know and how much it         cost me to figure it out' " Watson
          On 12/6/2017 10:45 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
        
         	  | Quote: | 	 		  -->         RV10-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym(at)aviating.com> (kellym(at)aviating.com)         
          
          The Odyssey is a variant of the AGM technology. I suggest that         you do not need a "tender". You need something that can recharge         the battery whenever it has been run down. Most any automatic         charger with an AGM switch will do...as long as you only charge         things when you are present. 
          AGM batteries have a very low self discharge rate, and if there         was no leakage of current, would be very fresh after 3 months of         sitting. 
          If you want a genuine Odyssey charger, you can go with 
          https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-12a-odyssey-portable-charger.html         
          or 
          https://www.batterymart.com/p-obc-6a-odyssey-portable-charger.html         
          Both a lot less than the overpriced Battery minder models. 
          Again, I would NOT leave a charger of any kind on a battery         unattended. 
          There are several unnecessary risks. 
          
          
          
          On 12/6/2017 8:24 PM, Ed Godfrey wrote: 
           	  | Quote: | 	 		  --> RV10-List message posted by: Ed           Godfrey <egodfrey(at)ameritech.net> (egodfrey(at)ameritech.net)           
            
            I am looking to get a battery charger/tender and was looking           for the Walmart one that Tim had suggested a number of years           ago, to charge my Odyssey PC-925 battery. It seems that they           no longer carry the WM-2500A model any longer. Does anyone           have any suggestions as to what would be a suitable           replacement? Thanks. 
            
            Ed Godfrey 
            
            
            
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		Tim Olson
 
 
  Joined: 25 Jan 2007 Posts: 2882
 
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				 Posted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 12:53 pm    Post subject: Battery charger/minder/tender - redux | 
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				If you're ok with having parasitic loads, I did find a device that I 
 bought for my truck, that can at least let you monitor your battery.
 
 https://www.batterymart.com/p-081-0172-wireless-battery-monitor.html?gclid=CjwKCAiAsejRBRB3EiwAZft7sAXMPY8TZL8cCg4x-nF9y54EYPvNo9rtg2E94_p_apCDfMq6SUP9JBoCnzgQAvD_BwE
 
 It's the Battery Tender wireless battery monitor.
 
 I put a lighter pigtail on it, and plug it into my trucks always-on
 accessory socket.
 
 Warning: It was THE BIGGEST PAIN I've ever experienced, ever, in
 configuring a wireless device, but, it does work.  For my truck
 that I don't drive much in the winter, I left the Ctek charger on it,
 with this plugged into the truck, so any time I want I can check
 the voltage of my battery.  If the charger turns off, in theory
 I will get an alert if the battery drains too low.
 Better than not knowing, I guess.  But questionable if you need it
 if you're going to leave a charger on it anyway.
 
 It turns itself off and every 10 minutes turns on, uploads the
 battery voltage, and then sleeps again.
 
 Tim
 On 12/20/2017 02:09 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
  	  | Quote: | 	 		   * warning - slightly off topic*
  I left several cars idle for a month and was rather upset when my wife's 
  new Miata's battery was 'dead'.  Clearly a parasitic load was involved 
  and that would seem to be a defect.  Then after considering all the 
  electrical tricks this particular car plays (e.g. the electric windows 
  are slightly nudged each time a door is opened or closed in order to get 
  a good seal with the retractable roof) I thought, "of course there are 
  parasitic loads, and they may be a bit more than the electric clock in 
  my Dad's old DeSoto".
  
  I'm thinking that just about any modern car has some parasitic loads.  I 
  have a mid-90s Caravan for occasional junk hauling that has weathered a 
  few parasitic load problems like a trailer brake. Even with all those 
  cleared I know  that the transmission can be reset by disconnecting the 
  battery, so there must be some very small loads designed in.
  
  So while I know I don't need a minder for my 680s, I think I'm getting 
  one for the Miata since there is a tendency to not put many miles on it 
  in the winter.
  
  And I guess it's okay to use my Schumacher SC3 for an occasional charge 
  of my 680s.  Even though the charger doesn't have settings for AGM 
  versus Lead Acid, versus Gel, it does specifically state it is good for 
  AGMs.
  
  
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