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B&C Alternator
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tjyak50



Joined: 31 May 2007
Posts: 81
Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 8:46 pm    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

Interested to hear from those who have installed the B&C or Jasco alternator in a Yak.

Do any of our regular Yak suppliers have special pricing or is it all direct?

Tj

---------------------------
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2007 9:56 pm    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

On Dec 23, 2007, at 8:38 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:

Quote:
Interested to hear from those who have installed the B&C or Jasco
alternator in a Yak.

B&C works extremely well and is very expensive. Most of the other
conversion I have seen are GM truck alternators. They work really
well and are dirt cheap once you weld the spline coupling onto the
alternator shaft.

--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)

I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
— Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 6:02 am    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

Got any 5x8 glossies of that spline coupling? Where did you get the spline
coupling from? Take it off the generator? Where did you get the base plate
to mount the alternator to? And the last question, you got any wiring
diagrams for the system after you have hooked up the existing (+), (-), and
exciter wire from the old generator to what was the carbon pile regulator
and power panel now to the new solid state regulator?
Granted I am not a avionics or electricity genius. Imbecile is more like it.
But, my last encounter with the YAK electrical system did not leave me with
the "it's simple" feeling 3 weeks later.
Please enlighten me on the process of this conversion. I'm all for saving a
few bucks with the cost of fuel going up along with taxes for everything
including the air we breath!
Doc
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 6:05 am    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

I looked high and low for an auto alt that would easily be set
up to mount on the Huosai engine's alt pad but never found
one and finally muckled onto a nice Jasco unit on ebay. Brian...
which GM truck alt has a cooperative mounting method? Thanks.

David Stroud Ottawa, Canada
C-FDWS Christavia
Fairchild 51 under construction
---


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 6:19 am    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

I have the B&C in my CJ (M14P). It is excellent but expensive. But it
mates to the engine just fine.

DaBear

Tom Johnson wrote:
Quote:
Interested to hear from those who have installed the B&C or Jasco
alternator in a Yak.

Do any of our regular Yak suppliers have special pricing or is it all
direct?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 6:52 am    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

I also have a B&C - i just had a small problem with the wiring and
contacted the company as the unit came on the plane and I had no
paperwork/diagrams/manuals. They just sent out a nice packet of info
- the unit seems to work great. if anyone wants the diagrams or
photos - email mail me.

Herb
On Dec 24, 2007, at 8:18 AM, DaBear wrote:

Quote:


I have the B&C in my CJ (M14P). It is excellent but expensive. But
it mates to the engine just fine.

DaBear

Tom Johnson wrote:
> Interested to hear from those who have installed the B&C or Jasco
> alternator in a Yak.
> Do any of our regular Yak suppliers have special pricing or is it
> all direct?


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tjyak50



Joined: 31 May 2007
Posts: 81
Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 8:02 am    Post subject: Re: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

I have met the owner of B&C a few times and he is a good guy. Clearly a "Sparky" if there ever was one.

I considered going with an auto or marine alternator but I also like the fact that B&C is supporting our aircraft with a specific solution.

The weather is perfect for flying for us now and I don't want to be down for long with my head stuck up in the hell hole of a Yak.

Who sells the JASCO system for the Yak, is it just the Coy's?

Tj


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 9:43 am    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

Tom,
We have the adapter in stock and can have an alternator drop shipped to you.

Cheers,
Cliff

tjyak50 wrote:
Quote:


I have met the owner of B&C a few times and he is a good guy. Clearly a "Sparky" if there ever was one.

I considered going with an auto or marine alternator but I also like the fact that B&C is supporting our aircraft with a specific solution.

The weather is perfect for flying for us now and I don't want to be down for long with my head stuck up in the hell hole of a Yak.

Who sells the JASCO system for the Yak, is it just the Coy's?

Tj


Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=154011#154011




--
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Director of Maintenance
Border Air Ltd
629 Airport Rd.
Swanton, VT 05488
802-868-2822 TEL
802-868-4465 FAX
Skype: callto:Cliff.Coy <callto:cliff.coy>


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 10:23 am    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

On Dec 24, 2007, at 6:00 AM, Roger Kemp wrote:

Quote:

<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>

Got any 5x8 glossies of that spline coupling? Where did you get the
spline
coupling from? Take it off the generator? Where did you get the
base plate
to mount the alternator to?

I have seen several alternators mounted to both the M14 and the
Huosai engines. While I did not do the work myself all seemed
straight forward mechanical jobs. The big difference is that one
needs to fabricate a base plate with the seal for the Huosai engine.

I believe that the spline was removed from the generator and welded
to the alternator input shaft. Most base plates seems to be
relatively simple machined aluminum blocks. No two have been alike to
my eyes (B&C excepted, of course) but they didn't seem to be either
complex or need a CNC mill to make.

Quote:
And the last question, you got any wiring
diagrams for the system after you have hooked up the existing (+),
(-), and
exciter wire from the old generator to what was the carbon pile
regulator
and power panel now to the new solid state regulator?

That part is easy. The 'B' lead from the alternator goes to the main
bus tie with an appropriate current limiting device; i.e. breaker,
fuse, or fusible link; as near as possible to the bus tie. You get
rid of all that stuff associated with the generator as it is not
needed. You dispose of the filter and the regulator along with the
generators. That gets you almost another 3-4 Kg of mass out of your
airplane (in addition to the generator itself).

Some (most) alternators are internally regulated. They do not need an
external regulator and so need only two wires: the 'B' lead which
carries the power from the alternator to the bus and an excitation
lead that provides a small amount of battery power to "turn on" the
alternator initially. Some alternators use this second wire to allow
you to turn the alternator on or off. (This latter feature is
desirable as it allows you to force the alternator off should the
regulator fail and the alternator "run away".)

If you use an externally-regulated alternator you will need a new
alternator-controller/regulator you can use a standard aircraft or
automotive device. B&C makes one for their alternator. It is very
nice but also very pricey.

Quote:
Granted I am not a avionics or electricity genius. Imbecile is more
like it.
But, my last encounter with the YAK electrical system did not leave
me with
the "it's simple" feeling 3 weeks later.

There is nothing simple about the generator system in the aircraft
(Yak or CJ) and to my way of thinking it is one of the first things I
would replace. It adds a lot of weight an complexity. It also uses
lots of electromechanical switches (relays) which are much more prone
to misadjustment and failure. So keep the generator until it fails
and then put in an alternator so you don't have to mess with it again.

Quote:
Please enlighten me on the process of this conversion. I'm all for
saving a
few bucks with the cost of fuel going up along with taxes for
everything
including the air we breath!

Well, the B&C is NOT the way to save a few bux. OTOH, once you spend
the money you can be satisfied that it will work trouble-free longer
than anything else in the airplane will. It will also get rid of
something like 13Kg of mass. The GM truck alternator is dirt cheap
but you have to fabricate the mounting plate and weld on the spline
coupling. Not hard to do but not an instant bolt-on replacement either.

So, how much is your time worth to you? Would you rather be trouble
shooting the generator or flying? Are you paying someone to fix it
for you? If so, the B&C may be cheap. Are you doing it yourself and
you really like working on your airplane? Fix the generator then. I
like playing with steam engines for fun and doing celestial
navigation. The arcanity appeals to me. I think generators are cool
the way they work. But I wouldn't want one in my airplane.

Hmm, are you telling me that you want a cheap alternator conversion
kit for M14 and Huosai? What price do you think would be reasonable?

--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)

I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
— Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 10:33 am    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

On Dec 24, 2007, at 9:42 AM, Cliff Coy wrote:

Quote:


Tom,
We have the adapter in stock and can have an alternator drop
shipped to you.

This strikes me as the most cost-effective way to go.

My only comment is that you need some way to force the alternator off-
line should its regulator fail and the alternator "run away". In that
case the bus voltage will go way too high and the battery will fail,
sometimes in a very spectacular but frightening fashion. Immediately
thereafter all your avionics will go with it.

Some internally regulated alternators have a diode trio that makes
them "self-exciting". That means that once they come on, you can't
turn them off until the alternator stops turning. Not good if the
internal regulator goes TU and turns the field on all the way. Now
you have a runaway alternator you can't turn off. Better to remove
the diode trio and provide the excitation for the alternator's
internal regulator and field through an external wire and switch. You
can turn that switch off and turn off the alternator even if the
regulator fails. This mod is pretty simple.

OTOH, Cliff may be providing an alternator already configured for
external control which makes the point moot.

BTW, many alternators have a lead that supposedly turns the
alternator on or off. This is actually just a control signal to the
regulator. The regulator is still powered by the diode trio inside
the alternator. In this type of alternator/regulator if the internal
regulator fails with the field turned on, the on/off lead no longer
works and you can't turn off your alternator. You need to make sure
that the field current and regulator excitation is suppled through a
separate, external circuit that is under the pilot's control.

--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)

I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
— Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 12:22 pm    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

Herb (the other Doc),
Yes, please email them to me. What did you do to regulate the output to the
system?
Doc

--


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 12:34 pm    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

Hey Brian,
Thanks. Seems $500 to 800 would be fair if we are talking about a GM
conversion.
Doc
By the way see your Christmas and call your Happy New Year!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year on this fine Xmas eve to all on the list!

Doc

--


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 1:31 pm    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

On Dec 24, 2007, at 12:33 PM, Roger Kemp wrote:

Quote:

<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>

Hey Brian,
Thanks. Seems $500 to 800 would be fair if we are talking about a GM
conversion.

Thanks for the info. Let me think about it.
--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)

I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
— Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 1:32 pm    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

On Dec 24, 2007, at 12:19 PM, Roger Kemp wrote:

Quote:

<viperdoc(at)mindspring.com>

Herb (the other Doc),
Yes, please email them to me. What did you do to regulate the
output to the
system?

If you are interested in the B&C alternator system, see this page. It
is the wiring diagram for the B&C alternator. Very simple.

http://www.bandc.biz/Lr3C_dgm.pdf
--
Brian Lloyd 3191 Western Drive
brian HYPHEN 1927 AT lloyd DOT com Cameron Park, CA 95682
+1.916.367.2131 (voice) +1.270.912.0788 (fax)

I fly because it releases my mind from the tyranny of petty things . . .
— Antoine de Saint-Exupéry

PGP key ID: 12095C52A32A1B6C
PGP key fingerprint: 3B1D BA11 4913 3254 B6E0 CC09 1209 5C52 A32A 1B6C


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 2:23 pm    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 2:35 pm    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

I have the Jasco in my Yak 52 it works great It was easer to install than try to find out witch part was bad and take a guess and pay 400.00 just for one part that might be the problem or pay 8 or 9 hundred and have a great system. a no brainier.
Thanks Don
[quote] ---


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 2:50 pm    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

There is more than one B&C Alternator. The one that comes with the westernized YAKS's is a true alternator with an excitation field winding. It comes with an external regulator that includes over-voltage protection. It is a terrific unit but has a rather high price tag at around $700 or so. Then there is the very small PMG device that B&C sells that outputs about 10 amps at 28 volts DC maximum. This unit has no field winding, but instead is a perm. magnet generator. This unit has an external voltage regulator. It also has an OPTIONAL over-voltage crowbar circuit that I would highly suggest using as well. The latter unit is very light weight which is why you find it on most aerobatic platforms using the M-14.

The stock Russian electrical system is better than a lot of people thing. It just is a real SOB to learn and understand. You can buy a new Russian generator for about $100 brand new if you know where to look. The only parts that are hard to find are the relays, especially the "Combined Device" master control relay. However, this unit can be repaired, or even made a-new if you have a little talent and some time. You smpke a Russian part and it is a few hundred maximum. You smoke a B&C Alternator and it's a quick $700 ..... pay me now, see you later.

There are simply pro and con's no matter which way you go. I've worked on both systems... and have kept the Russian one by choice.

Mark Bitterlich



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 2:54 pm    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

The larger style B&C with outboard regulator includes built in over-voltage protection. The wiring in the aircraft now can be also used to provide the on-off capability needed. Switching to a B&C is easy. Finding exactly the right wires to hook everything in to may not be. Depends on your talent level.

Mark Bitterlich


 
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 5:18 pm    Post subject: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

Thanks Doc Herb.
Doc Kemp

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tjyak50



Joined: 31 May 2007
Posts: 81
Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 6:23 pm    Post subject: Re: B&C Alternator Reply with quote

Stealing partially from Brian Lloyd and Mark Bitterlich... with respect to hooking a B&C model LR3C-28 Voltage Regulator to a Yak.

1) The "B" fat wire from the alternator connects to the bus bar in the DC power box. It connects in the same place where you remove the connection from the bus to the terminal marked "CETb" on the Combined Relay (Aka: 200-Gizmo).

2) Terminal "F" on the alternator is wired to terminal #4 on the new Voltage Regulator.

3) Generator On / Off switch now becomes the Alternator On / Off switch and acts as the Alternator Field. The wire that was connected to terminal marked "B" on the Combined relay can serve this fucntion? and would be connected to terminal #6 on the new regulator.

4) A wire to the Bus from the new Voltage Regulator terminal #3 acts as the Bus Voltage Sense.

5) A beefy ground wire from the New Voltage regulator pin #7

And now a question...
6) The "Low Voltage" pin from the new Voltage Regulator is pin #5.
Appears this lamp is triggered by pin #5 going to GROUND as it shows the lamp connected to the bus with a fuse. This is how the system works in my Yak, so this wire could go directly to the existing lamp (barrel) to accomplish this function and still keep the existing "Test" function intact? In my airplane the GEN OUT light center pin is always hot with the battery on and the barrel gets ground from the TEST relay or the GEN OUT relay.

Some of this assumes any switches or wires you re-use are known good, so lets at least pretend that for now.

Comments please - NO FLAMES... I am just a rookie.
If these connections sound reasonable I will try it and take pictures to document forever.


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