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teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 10:23 am Post subject: Baffles and such |
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I don't know why it is that everyone (almost everyone) who installs baffles puts the #3 baffle on top of the #1 baffle. The short one holds the long one down.
It's too late to fix the left rear corner on this one without new baffles. It will always bleed air here.
Nose gear: so, the guy removing it says, "I know why it's so hard to remove, they forgot to cut it out to clear the thingy on the strut. There. Problem solved."
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BARRY CHECK 6
Joined: 15 Mar 2011 Posts: 738
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Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 12:43 pm Post subject: Baffles and such |
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On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 2:21 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com (teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
Quote: | I don't know why it is that everyone (almost everyone) who installs baffles puts the #3 baffle on top of the #1 baffle. The short one holds the long one down.
| [Barry] - I've seen people get confused about this - - - Does not matter about the cylinder numbers - Simply put... The front baffle goes UNDER the rear baffle. This is for BOTH the aluminum and the silicon. There should always be an overlap.... Whoops... Under-Lap.
Quote: |
It's too late to fix the left rear corner on this one without new baffles. It will always bleed air here.
|
[Barry] - I like the way you smoothed things out.
Quote: |
Nose gear: so, the guy removing it says, "I know why it's so hard to remove, they forgot to cut it out to clear the thingy on the strut. There. Problem solved."
|
[Barry] - That only takes care of the small thingy... What about the bigger thingy - Nose Fork?
I would rather see a SPLIT Nose Pant - Like on the RV-6A. Front and back separate and you have total access to the nose wheel.
Barry
[quote][b]
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teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 1:40 pm Post subject: Baffles and such |
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"[Barry] - I've seen people get confused about this - - - Does not matter about the cylinder numbers - Simply put... The front baffle goes UNDER the rear baffle. This is for BOTH the aluminum and the silicon. There should always be an overlap.... Whoops... Under-Lap."
WRONG!
THE SHORT ONE HOLDS THE LONG ONE DOWN.
On the left side of the engine, the front (#2 cylinder baffle) is long. It goes UNDER the short rear (#4 cylinder) baffle.
On the right side of the engine, the front (#1 cylinder baffle) is short. It goes ON TOP of the long rear (#3 cylinder) baffle.
==============
"[Barry] - That only takes care of the small thingy... What about the bigger thingy - Nose Fork?
I would rather see a SPLIT Nose Pant - Like on the RV-6A. Front and back separate and you have total access to the nose wheel. "
why? Oh, I see, so there is never an excuse to lubricate any of the rest of the moving parts.
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Fri, July 29, 2011 1:41:02 PM
Subject: Re: Baffles and such
On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 2:21 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com (teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
Quote: | I don't know why it is that everyone (almost everyone) who installs baffles puts the #3 baffle on top of the #1 baffle. The short one holds the long one down.
| [Barry] - I've seen people get confused about this - - - Does not matter about the cylinder numbers - Simply put... The front baffle goes UNDER the rear baffle. This is for BOTH the aluminum and the silicon. There should always be an overlap.... Whoops... Under-Lap.
Quote: |
It's too late to fix the left rear corner on this one without new baffles. It will always bleed air here.
|
[Barry] - I like the way you smoothed things out.
Quote: |
Nose gear: so, the guy removing it says, "I know why it's so hard to remove, they forgot to cut it out to clear the thingy on the strut. There. Problem solved."
|
[Barry] - That only takes care of the small thingy... What about the bigger thingy - Nose Fork?
I would rather see a SPLIT Nose Pant - Like on the RV-6A. Front and back separate and you have total access to the nose wheel.
Barry
[quote][b]
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BARRY CHECK 6
Joined: 15 Mar 2011 Posts: 738
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Posted: Fri Jul 29, 2011 3:46 pm Post subject: Baffles and such |
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I don't see how that is wrong?Think about it this way... As the air enters the top part of the engine... Baffled area.
It rushes in and is pushing OUT in all directions.
If the REAR baffle is on the INSIDE <--- As per your explanation. The air will PUSH out on the front baffle OPENING the gap/overlap and allowing air to escape.
Are you trying to say that the short baffle is STIFFER than the long baffle?
By a farts breath maybe - But you are putting the leading edge of the baffle into the air stream allowing that air to get under the leading edge and opening the gap/overlap.
BUT! By putting the front baffle INSIDE the rear baffle... The edge is now trailing in the air stream AND even the farts breath of stiffness becomes a sealed overlap.
This is using the SAME aerodynamics as should be used on the soft flexible baffling.
Barry
=======================
On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 5:37 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com (teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
[quote] "[Barry] - I've seen people get confused about this - - - Does not matter about the cylinder numbers - Simply put... The front baffle goes UNDER the rear baffle. This is for BOTH the aluminum and the silicon. There should always be an overlap.... Whoops... Under-Lap."
WRONG!
THE SHORT ONE HOLDS THE LONG ONE DOWN.
On the left side of the engine, the front (#2 cylinder baffle) is long. It goes UNDER the short rear (#4 cylinder) baffle.
On the right side of the engine, the front (#1 cylinder baffle) is short. It goes ON TOP of the long rear (#3 cylinder) baffle.
==============
"[Barry] - That only takes care of the small thingy... What about the bigger thingy - Nose Fork?
I would rather see a SPLIT Nose Pant - Like on the RV-6A. Front and back separate and you have total access to the nose wheel. "
why? Oh, I see, so there is never an excuse to lubricate any of the rest of the moving parts.
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com (flyadive(at)gmail.com)>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Fri, July 29, 2011 1:41:02 PM
Subject: Re: Baffles and such
On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 2:21 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com (teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
Quote: | I don't know why it is that everyone (almost everyone) who installs baffles puts the #3 baffle on top of the #1 baffle. The short one holds the long one down.
| [Barry] - I've seen people get confused about this - - - Does not matter about the cylinder numbers - Simply put... The front baffle goes UNDER the rear baffle. This is for BOTH the aluminum and the silicon. There should always be an overlap.... Whoops... Under-Lap.
Quote: |
It's too late to fix the left rear corner on this one without new baffles. It will always bleed air here.
|
[Barry] - I like the way you smoothed things out.
Quote: |
Nose gear: so, the guy removing it says, "I know why it's so hard to remove, they forgot to cut it out to clear the thingy on the strut. There. Problem solved."
|
[Barry] - That only takes care of the small thingy... What about the bigger thingy - Nose Fork?
I would rather see a SPLIT Nose Pant - Like on the RV-6A. Front and back separate and you have total access to the nose wheel.
Barry
Quote: |
st" target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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[b]
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teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 8:16 pm Post subject: Baffles and such |
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Barry,
It takes very little pressure to move the #3 baffle out if it's on the outside. Try it yourself. It isn't rocket science. There is no way "The air will PUSH out on the front baffle OPENING the gap/overlap and allowing air to escape. " if the #3 is on top.
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Fri, July 29, 2011 4:42:20 PM
Subject: Re: Baffles and such
I don't see how that is wrong?Think about it this way... As the air enters the top part of the engine... Baffled area.
It rushes in and is pushing OUT in all directions.
If the REAR baffle is on the INSIDE <--- As per your explanation. The air will PUSH out on the front baffle OPENING the gap/overlap and allowing air to escape.
Are you trying to say that the short baffle is STIFFER than the long baffle?
By a farts breath maybe - But you are putting the leading edge of the baffle into the air stream allowing that air to get under the leading edge and opening the gap/overlap.
BUT! By putting the front baffle INSIDE the rear baffle... The edge is now trailing in the air stream AND even the farts breath of stiffness becomes a sealed overlap.
This is using the SAME aerodynamics as should be used on the soft flexible baffling.
Barry
=======================
On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 5:37 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com (teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
Quote: | "[Barry] - I've seen people get confused about this - - - Does not matter about the cylinder numbers - Simply put... The front baffle goes UNDER the rear baffle. This is for BOTH the aluminum and the silicon. There should always be an overlap.... Whoops... Under-Lap."
WRONG!
THE SHORT ONE HOLDS THE LONG ONE DOWN.
On the left side of the engine, the front (#2 cylinder baffle) is long. It goes UNDER the short rear (#4 cylinder) baffle.
On the right side of the engine, the front (#1 cylinder baffle) is short. It goes ON TOP of the long rear (#3 cylinder) baffle.
==============
"[Barry] - That only takes care of the small thingy... What about the bigger thingy - Nose Fork?
I would rather see a SPLIT Nose Pant - Like on the RV-6A. Front and back separate and you have total access to the nose wheel. "
why? Oh, I see, so there is never an excuse to lubricate any of the rest of the moving parts.
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com (flyadive(at)gmail.com)>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Fri, July 29, 2011 1:41:02 PM
Subject: Re: Baffles and such
On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 2:21 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com (teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
Quote: | I don't know why it is that everyone (almost everyone) who installs baffles puts the #3 baffle on top of the #1 baffle. The short one holds the long one down.
| [Barry] - I've seen people get confused about this - - - Does not matter about the cylinder numbers - Simply put... The front baffle goes UNDER the rear baffle. This is for BOTH the aluminum and the silicon. There should always be an overlap.... Whoops... Under-Lap.
Quote: |
It's too late to fix the left rear corner on this one without new baffles. It will always bleed air here.
|
[Barry] - I like the way you smoothed things out.
Quote: |
Nose gear: so, the guy removing it says, "I know why it's so hard to remove, they forgot to cut it out to clear the thingy on the strut. There. Problem solved."
|
[Barry] - That only takes care of the small thingy... What about the bigger thingy - Nose Fork?
I would rather see a SPLIT Nose Pant - Like on the RV-6A. Front and back separate and you have total access to the nose wheel.
Barry
|
[quote][b]
| - The Matronics TeamGrumman-List Email Forum - | | Use the List Feature Navigator to browse the many List utilities available such as the Email Subscriptions page, Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, Photoshare, and much more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?TeamGrumman-List |
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teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com Guest
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Posted: Mon Aug 01, 2011 12:12 pm Post subject: Baffles and such |
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Barry,
take a look at the pics I sent. THe #3 is hanging out. Why? because there bolt is on the bottom a long way from the baffle seal. Put it behind the #1 and the #1 holds it in place.
Gary
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Mon, August 1, 2011 6:18:19 AM
Subject: Re: Baffles and such
Gary:
I'm lost. You will have to explain your thought process / findings on this one.
Why does it take 'very little pressure' to move the #3 but the #1 is not affected?
Why doesn't the direction of flow effect how air will escape?
Since I am not currently working as a Rocket Scientist, how would you devise a method of proving your statement?
Barry
On Sun, Jul 31, 2011 at 12:13 AM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com (teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
Quote: | Barry,
It takes very little pressure to move the #3 baffle out if it's on the outside. Try it yourself. It isn't rocket science. There is no way "The air will PUSH out on the front baffle OPENING the gap/overlap and allowing air to escape. " if the #3 is on top.
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com (flyadive(at)gmail.com)>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Fri, July 29, 2011 4:42:20 PM
Subject: Re: Baffles and such
I don't see how that is wrong?Think about it this way... As the air enters the top part of the engine... Baffled area.
It rushes in and is pushing OUT in all directions.
If the REAR baffle is on the INSIDE <--- As per your explanation. The air will PUSH out on the front baffle OPENING the gap/overlap and allowing air to escape.
Are you trying to say that the short baffle is STIFFER than the long baffle?
By a farts breath maybe - But you are putting the leading edge of the baffle into the air stream allowing that air to get under the leading edge and opening the gap/overlap.
BUT! By putting the front baffle INSIDE the rear baffle... The edge is now trailing in the air stream AND even the farts breath of stiffness becomes a sealed overlap.
This is using the SAME aerodynamics as should be used on the soft flexible baffling.
Barry
=======================
On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 5:37 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com (teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
Quote: |
"[Barry] - I've seen people get confused about this - - - Does not matter about the cylinder numbers - Simply put... The front baffle goes UNDER the rear baffle. This is for BOTH the aluminum and the silicon. There should always be an overlap.... Whoops... Under-Lap."
WRONG!
THE SHORT ONE HOLDS THE LONG ONE DOWN.
On the left side of the engine, the front (#2 cylinder baffle) is long. It goes UNDER the short rear (#4 cylinder) baffle.
On the right side of the engine, the front (#1 cylinder baffle) is short. It goes ON TOP of the long rear (#3 cylinder) baffle.
==============
"[Barry] - That only takes care of the small thingy... What about the bigger thingy - Nose Fork?
I would rather see a SPLIT Nose Pant - Like on the RV-6A. Front and back separate and you have total access to the nose wheel. "
why? Oh, I see, so there is never an excuse to lubricate any of the rest of the moving parts.
From: FLYaDIVE <flyadive(at)gmail.com (flyadive(at)gmail.com)>
To: teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com (teamgrumman-list(at)matronics.com)
Sent: Fri, July 29, 2011 1:41:02 PM
Subject: Re: Baffles and such
On Fri, Jul 29, 2011 at 2:21 PM, Gary Vogt <teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com (teamgrumman(at)yahoo.com)> wrote:
Quote: | I don't know why it is that everyone (almost everyone) who installs baffles puts the #3 baffle on top of the #1 baffle. The short one holds the long one down.
| [Barry] - I've seen people get confused about this - - - Does not matter about the cylinder numbers - Simply put... The front baffle goes UNDER the rear baffle. This is for BOTH the aluminum and the silicon. There should always be an overlap.... Whoops... Under-Lap.
Quote: |
It's too late to fix the left rear corner on this one without new baffles. It will always bleed air here.
|
[Barry] - I like the way you smoothed things out.
Quote: |
Nose gear: so, the guy removing it says, "I know why it's so hard to remove, they forgot to cut it out to clear the thingy on the strut. There. Problem solved."
|
[Barry] - That only takes care of the small thingy... What about the bigger thingy - Nose Fork?
I would rather see a SPLIT Nose Pant - Like on the RV-6A. Front and back separate and you have total access to the nose wheel.
Barry
|
|
[quote][b]
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