To add to the confusion ACS lists it in two places, one as "Lexan" and the
other as "Lexan Polycarbonate"
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/lexan.php
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/2024_leadedge.php
The keen eye however will note the same specs *and* the same part numbers on
both pages, so matters not what you call it I guess...
Bob Brennan - N717GB
1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
Wrightsville Pa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of fox5flyer
Sent: 25 August 2008 7:41 pm
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Windsceen Lexan
Uh, I think someone has mixed up the posts. I believe it began with a post
about Lexan, but I might be wrong. Lexan is soft and can be drilled with
normal drill bits, but the holes should be about 30 percent larger than the
fastener to accommodate expansion/contraction or cracking will occur.
Acrylic is different and needs to be drilled as Lynn posted below.
Deke
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lynn Matteson" <lynnmatt@jps.net>
To: <kitfox-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 6:57 PM
Subject: Re: Re: Windsceen Lexan
NO to the metal-drilling bit. I got my bits from LP Aeroplastics
(along with one of their windshields), but you could try grinding a
pretty sharp point on a metal bit....here's what it should look like:
The included angle should be 60....unlike a regular metal-cutting
drill of 118 included angle, and the rake angle should be 0...in
other words, the drill should have no rake angle. That's why the
front of the cutting edge looks flat in this picture. A plastic drill
should "scrape" the material away instead of "cutting" it like a
metal drill does.
The material that came with my plane was 0.093".
As always, try on some scrap first.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
>
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster
> Jabiru 2200, 562 hrs and holding for repairs
> Status: "Condition grounded, but determined to try." (Pink
> Floyd..."Learning to Fly")
> do not archive
>
>
> On Aug 25, 2008, at 6:25 PM, Bob Brennan wrote:
>
>> <matronics@bob.brennan.name>
>>
>> Thanks Dave,
>>
>> So that sounds like a recommendation for .080 or .093? I don't have a
>> micrometer but the current windscreen starts to pulsate at a little
>> over 75,
>> so it must be .060(?)
>>
>> There are some fairly sharp curves on my KF2, which is where the
>> cracks
>> occurred. I am planning to use the old pieces as templates and cut
>> the new
>> with a Dremel with a cut-off wheel. With that I should be able to also
>> smooth the edges. I imagine that using the right kind of drill bit
>> to drill
>> the rivet holes is important too, don't want any cracks there. A
>> metal-drilling bit?
>>
>> Bob Brennan - N717GB
>> 1991 UK Model 2 ELSA Kitfox
>> Rotax 582 with 3 blade prop
>> Wrightsville Pa
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dave
>> Sent: 25 August 2008 5:08 pm
>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Windsceen Lexan
>>
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> 060 will work and easy to work with
>> it will flex over 75 mph .
>> I have .125 and it is harder to work with.
>>
>> Make sure you smooth the edges well as cracks can propagate from
>> Lexan if
>> not smoothed .
>>
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> --------
>> Rotax Dealer, Ontario Canada
>> Flying Videos and Kitfox Info
>> http://www.cfisher.com/
>> Realtime Kitfox movies to separate the internet chatter from the
>> truth
>> http://www.youtube.com/profile_videos?user=kitfoxflyer
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p 0519#200519
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
