RE: Humidity when painting


Subject:    RE: Humidity when painting
From:    Noel Loveys (noelloveys@yahoo.ca)
Date:    Fri Nov 28 - 10:23 AM
Lynn: 

Put a kettle on the wood burner.  That increases the humidity enough to keep
the static down.  Once the temp drops below -5C I start to get the zaps too.


Sometimes even the slap won't hide the snap of a well built up charge :-)

The idea of grounding the spar to the ground of a receptacle sounds like a
good one to me.  You can keep it dry and still spray the dope.


Noel

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn Matteson
Sent: Friday, November 28, 2008 12:51 PM
To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Humidity when painting


All I know is that before I used the copper braid thing, I could be  
wiping down the wing, for example, and get a good poke when I'd touch  
the spar. After I attached the braid, no more shocks. So after I did  
this I left a length of the braid bolted right to the wing attaching  
hole in the spar, and the other end was always in contact with the  
ground/concrete floor.

Regarding the braid in the shoe thing....I just took my sock off and  
stuck the braid into the sock, re"installed" the sock and let the  
braid lay alongside my ankle, up over the top of the sock, and out  
onto the floor. So in effect, I was standing on the braid with  
somewhat humid bare feet, so I was in pretty good contact with it.

I don't know about Newfoundland, but here in Michigan, it gets to a  
point that if you don't have some humidity going, in the house for  
example, and I've got the wood-burner going, when I get out of my  
chair to feed the fire, I'd better slap the steel door with my hand  
before I touch it, or I'll get a surprise shock. If I slap it first,  
the pain of the slap masks the shock. : )

Lynn Matteson
Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
Jabiru 2200, 593hrs
Sensenich 62x46
flying again after rebuild, and new Electroair direct-fire ignition  
system;
also building a new pair of snow skis


On Nov 28, 2008, at 9:54 AM, Noel Loveys wrote:

>
> Lynn:
>
> Two minor problems...  concrete is an insulator...  that's why they  
> put
> ground rods down through concrete and ski lift towers have separate  
> grounds.
> The other thing is a lot of hangars have epoxy finish on the  
> floor...  Epoxy
> can build and hold a static charge.  Wetting things down works well  
> but not
> for applying dope.
>
> I liked the idea of the braid in your shoe.. do you have a hole in  
> your shoe
> to put the braid out through?
>
>
> Noel Loveys
> AME Intern, RPP
> 912 almost installed
> Aerocet 1100 floats
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-kitfox-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Lynn  
> Matteson
> Sent: Thursday, November 27, 2008 7:08 PM
> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Humidity when painting
>
>
> Dan-
>
> I just looked for at least one of my two manuals, but couldn't find
> either...one is at the hangar...I'm almost absolutely positive that
> the figure is 70%. I seem to recall that it says something to the
> effect that "if it's over 70% humidity, find something else to do".
> I know that when I painted my plane, I measured humidity and avoided
> anything over 70%, and when I absolutely needed to finish a coat or
> whatever, I'd bring in the dehumidifier....my paint "booth" was about
> 8' x 8' x 24', so it didn't take long to bring it down. On the other
> hand, I sometimes needed to wet the floor to bring it up to avoid
> static electricity. I hung a length of copper braid from the metal
> parts down to the floor to ground out any static build-up. You may
> laugh, but I actually stuck a length of copper braid inside my sock,
> and out onto the floor so I didn't get a poke when I walked around
> and touched the metal parts. Such is painting in Michigan in the
> Spring.
>
> You could also use a blush retarder...Poly Fiber BR-8600....which
> says on the can to "slow down the drying time." I seem to recall that
> if the paint dries to fast, the humidity in the air will  cause the
> paint to "blush", which is the humidity showing up on the paint
> surface. I can't recall all this from memory, and always look it up
> just before I actually paint.
>
> Lynn Matteson
> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
> Jabiru 2200, 593hrs
> Sensenich 62x46
> flying again after rebuild, and new Electroair direct-fire ignition
> system;
> also building a new pair of snow skis
>
>
> On Nov 27, 2008, at 4:52 PM, Dan Billingsley wrote:
>
>> <dan@azshowersolutions.com>
>>
>> Thanks Lynn, I couldn't find a percentage...I just found an
>> indication not to spray in high humidity. Anyone else actually
>> spray paint when this humid? The temp is a nice 66 degrees.
>> Dan
>>
>>
>> --- On Thu, 11/27/08, Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net> wrote:
>>
>>> From: Lynn Matteson <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>>> Subject: Re: Humidity when painting
>>> To: kitfox-list@matronics.com
>>> Date: Thursday, November 27, 2008, 2:46 PM
>>> <lynnmatt@jps.net>
>>>
>>> 70%, according to my "Polly" manual.
>>>
>>> Lynn Matteson
>>> Kitfox IV Speedster, taildragger
>>> Jabiru 2200, 593hrs
>>> Sensenich 62x46
>>> flying again after rebuild, and new Electroair direct-fire
>>> ignition
>>> system;
>>> also building a new pair of snow skis
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Nov 27, 2008, at 4:08 PM, Dan Billingsley wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>> <dan@azshowersolutions.com>
>>>>
>>>> Can someone tell me what the highest humidity
>>> percentage would be
>>>> to still paint the Polly products? We are at 68% right
>>> now and I
>>>> have blush retarder on hand...Just didn't want to
>>> spin my wheels.
>>>> Thanks,
>>>> Dan B
>>>> Mesa, AZ
>>>> KF-912s
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>




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