Rob
Based on what I did, and others may differ, but I wouldn't do any levelling,
sanding etc until:
* The hinges are on
* The door hardware is installed
* The door seals are on (if you are using the McMaster Carr seals - I
can't speak to the Van's seals - no experience with them)
After the doors open / close as you want them to, I would then start looking
at high/low spots. Until then there are just too many variables that can
impact the door geometry. For example, the door pins can "suck" the door in
slightly and that may correct part of your problem. Small high / low spots
can be easily handled with flox / cabosil or Superfil.
Get the door operating first and then deal with the cosmetics (otherwise you
get to do it twice).
Cheers
Les
#40643 - The mains went on today (Yippee)
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rob Kochman
Sent: November-16-09 10:35 AM
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Subject: Door fit (another thread!)
I'm doing the initial fitting of my first door. It actually fits reasonably
well; however, the forward edge at the top of the door sits 2-3 32nds proud
of the cabin cover surface between the door edge and the forward latch. The
door isn't touching the canopy there; rather, the curve of the door isn't
sharp enough. Attaching the hinges should pull it down somewhat, but
definitely won't be flush.
For you grizzled door veterans, is this something I should be able to fix by
a combination of sanding the door surface and building up the canopy, or
would that end up looking bad? I could slide the door down a little, but
that makes the lower sides look bad.
BTW, thanks to Les for the heads up on avoiding gaps when bonding the halves
together. I used a ton of epoxy/flox around where the final cut would be
and don't have any gaps.
-Rob
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 "Finishing" Kit
Woodinville, WA (near Seattle)
http://kochman.net/N819K
