. . . . . (compiled from many amateur sources by David Carter)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Last changed 5 Sep 1998/21:30 CDT & sent to "Bunny's Guide for RV Building" for posting soon thereafter. Visitors= 

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DISCLAIMER: This document is a heavily expanded version of Van's RV-6 Builder's Manual, 10/24/96 6SCT6PP.doc, "SUBASSEMBLY 4: THE RIGHT ELEVATOR", starting at top of page 6-12, with text from the Van's manual shown in quotes. Everything else is preceded by "(added:)" followed by the ideas, tips, other steps, and observations added by David Carter from his own experience, from the RV-list, from Frank van der Hulst's "The Bunny's Guide to RV Building", and Sam Buchanan's web site. Some of Van's text was deleted or moved and will be shown as "(delete . . .)" or "(moved . . . to . . .")

This document has no connection to Van's Aircraft Inc. Van's has no responsibility for the way their official manual has been altered. The editor of this collection of "many builder's observations and approaches to building an RV-6" disclaims any responsibility for anyone's use of this manual. The editor is simply another "first time builder", has never built any other aircraft, is not an aircraft mechanic, and knows nothing about building aircraft other than what he has learned informally from other amateur home builders and from his own experience. IF YOU WANT OFFICIAL GUIDANCE FOR YOUR PROJECT, CONTACT VAN'S AIRCRAFT DIRECTLY.

This document was created in WordPerfect 6.0 for DOS and converted to HTML simply by adding the [HTML][HEAD][TITLE] . . .[/TITLE] LINE and the [/HEAD][BODY] LINE at top, then [P] codes at the end of every paragraph, which automatically ends the paragraph and inserts a blank line after it, then a single line at end: [/BODY][/HTML] , then "saving as" file type "ASCII, standard". The [ and ] symbols are actually < and > but they don't display in an HTML document. The [P] codes can go at the end of a paragraph or at the beginning of the following paragraph. It was easier for me to simply run the cursor down the left margin of the screen and repetitively paste [P] at the start of every paragraph.

COMMENT: It having been saved as an ASCII file, it has lots of hard returns that may look funny on your word processor. Web browsers ignore those hard returns. If you are serious about editing and re-printing your own, you may want to first print the document from your browser, so you get a decent copy to view, then do a "search and replace" for the ASCII hard return character and replace all but those where you want a blank line separating paragraphs or ideas - then "save as" a different file name for use by your word processor.

- - - - - - - - - and now, "the document" - - - - - - - - - - -

"SUBASSEMBLY 4: THE RIGHT ELEVATOR"

"The elevators are built much like the rudder: Stiffener-supported skins riveted to a skeleton and attached to the horizontal stabilizer with rod end bearings. Unlike the rudder, though, the elevators are balanced surfaces having lead weights forward of the hinge lines to counteract the weight of the structure behind it. This improves the control "feel" and helps prevent flutter. The other major difference between rudder and elevators is the installation of a trim tab in the left elevator. This need not be an especially difficult task, but it does require careful attention to detail. Probably the majority of builder mistakes on the empennage are made on the left elevator and trim tab. Fair warning! Because of the complication of the trim tab, we'll leave that to the last and start with the right elevator."

"FITTING THE STIFFENERS TO THE ELEVATOR SKIN"

"Like the rudder, the elevator needs accurate layout of the skeleton and stiffeners on the inside of the E-601PP elevator skin."

(Added:) Peel protective plastic from inside of skin - be careful not to crease/bend skin. Use hot soldering iron on outside of skin to make a tear line about 1" inside of top and bottom ribs and spar - tear off those 3 lines of holes. Peel plastic from both sides of one of E-602PP spars and mark that spar with felt pen as "E-602PP Right".

(Added:) Lay E-601PP R skin on table oriented like upper part of DWG 4PP, use felt pen and mark "top of right elevator" and "bottom of right elevator", on both outside and both inside surfaces. Place the E-601PP R skin on the table (or particle board "drill & cleco into" cover) with trailing edge away from you, bottom side down. "Cleco the (added: top of ) E-601PP skin to the E-602PP Right spar. (Delete: "Mark for replacement and drill the skins to the spars.") (Added:) Flip skin over, trace the top and bottom ends and trailing edge side (web) of spar on top skin, cleco bottom side of skin to spar, flip skin over, remove clecos from top side of skin, trace spar ends & web side on bottom of skin. Remove clecos & spar.

(Added:) Draw lines that define ends of stiffeners and location of last trailing edge rivet: Line 1/8" aft of spar web, line 3/16" from trailing edge and line 3/4" from trailing edge. The trailing edge lines may be drawn this way: With 1/8" dowel taped at each end of trailing edge, hold edge of ruler against dowel and make marks 1/16" and 5/8" from dowel on one end, then do same at other end - this defines the 3/16" and 3/4" lines. Flip skin and make same line and marks on other side of skin. Use a piece of the 5/8" angle as a straight edge, cleco clamp each end close to the 3/16 marks, place bucking bars and other weights about midway between leading and trailing edges of skin, curve top of skin back out of way of felt pen and hold top of skin back with head, then connect the 3/16" marks. Repeat for 3/4" marks, then 1/8" marks from tracing of spar web. Flip skin and repeat.

(Added:) From DWG 4PP note that the first, most inboard, stiffener goes 6 1/4" from inboard forward corner of skin, with 6 more spaced 6" from there. Place bottom of skin on table, make marks on the "1/8" from spar web line", then use protractor to make marks perpendicular to spar, then connect points and extend lines from "1/8 inch from spar" to "3/16 inch from trailing edge". These lines should be solid, indicating that the vertical side of web of stiffener angles go here.

. . . Now measure 5/8" outboard of each of these lines and draw dashed lines. This outlines the stiffener locations on bottom skin.

. . . Flip skin over and mark location of solid lines for webs of stiffeners, remembering to reverse the orientation of stiffeners and offset them 1/8 inch per DWG 4PP. Thus, the first, most inboard stiffener's solid line is marked 6 3/4 inches from inboard forward corner of skin (6 1/4 + 5/8 width of stiffener - 1/8 offset), with each of remaining 6 stiffeners's solid lines 6" further outboard. Again use protractor to make marks perpendicular to spar, then connect points and extend lines from "1/8 inch from spar" to "3/16 inch from trailing edge". These lines should be solid, indicating that the vertical side of web of stiffener angles go here.

. . . Now measure 5/8" inboard of each of these lines and draw dashed lines. This outlines the stiffener locations on top of skin.

(Added:) Flip skin so bottom side is on table. Now measure the length of each stiffener on this side, as they have been laid out, between "the line 1/8 inch from spar web" and "the line 3/16 inch from trailing edge" - write on skin by each stiffener outline. Flip skin and measure stiffener lengths on top side & record as above.

"Fabricate the stiffeners from the AA3 .025x5/8"x5/8" angle provided. See DWG 4PP." (Added) Before cutting any long piece, remove the protective plastic from both sides of angle stock.

"Layout the centerlines (added: (1/4" from edge of flange for ease in dimpling and riveting) (delete "and rivet positions on the stiffeners. (Added) The centerlines will be useful later in mentally keeping track of orientation as you lay stiffeners on skin.

. . . (Added:) One way to set up for making the stiffeners is to clamp a small block of wood or metal about 2" long to the edge of the work table to right of where you are standing - use a square to make the left side perpendicular to edge of table. Then trace a line onto table on this side of the block and remove the block. Use a protractor and draw a 1" long line from the edge of the table at 15 degrees to the left of the block. Replace the block, again assuring it is perpendicular to edge of table.

. . .(Added:) Measure 6" left of block and draw line perpendicular to edge of table.

(Added:) To make each stiffener, take a piece of angle stock, lay it on skin between lines marking its location, with side having centerline for future rivets on the skin. Label it "Bottom" (or "Top") "#1" (or "#2", 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7") near end closest to spar. This and centerline will help you keep oriented as you trim each end to its unique shape.

(Added:) Now lay the 18" ruler with its edge at edge of table and "zero end" butted up against the block clamped to table. Lay angle stock on top with "trailing edge end" against the block - mark the length. Set machinist's square to 1/2" and hold ruler part perpendicular to edge of angle with end of ruler almost touching radius of angle, at the mark for length - draw a line perpendicular to edge of angle all the way to radius of angle. Flip angle over and hold square so its ruler edge allows you to transfer the line from other side across this side. Use sheet metal shears and cut one side into radius, then flip and cut other side into radius and part will separate - ends will be very nearly square. Touch them up with sander or a file to make as perpendicular as you like.

(Added:) Now trim ends: Start with 15 degree cut on end nearest spar - lay angle on corner of table, butted against block, with side having centerline hanging down (vertical) so unmarked side is laying on table to be marked and cut - lay short ruler on top and to draw 15 degree line at end of angle. Cut along line. Next, set machinist square so ruler sticks out 1/8" and hold square's ruler vertical with 1/8" sticking out top, and lay angle with "centerline" side on square with "trailing edge" end of angle touching ruler - mark 1/8 up from "centerline" side. Lay that same end of angle on edge of table butted against block - make mark at 6" from trailing edge on side not having the centerline (use 6" line on table, or ruler). Connect the 1/8" mark and 6" mark, then cut on line with shears. Take to belt sander (or file) and round all corners, especially making the 1/8" radius at trailing edge end of stiffener, per plans.

. . . Next to last, if it is a stiffener for bottom side of skin, use round file to make small indentation at the end nearest the spar, on the side of angle that is perpendicular to skin (side without centerline). By marking only the bottom side stiffeners with a file mark (which paint won't obscure) you will keep the "bottom side" stiffeners separate from "top side".

. . . Last of all, lay stiffener in place on skin, accurately position end against "1/8" from spar" line, and then look straight down on "trailing edge end" and mark trailing edge rivet hole location on centerline by visual reference to the "line 3/4 inch from trailing edge" as it goes under the stiffener. Stack stiffener with rest of bottom or top stiffeners. Make rest of stiffeners.

(Added:) Smooth edges of all stiffeners on Scotchbrite wheel.

(Added:) [I didn'lt like my steel "drill guide" so stopped using it - simply laid stiffeners in "drill box", then laid 18" ruler's edge on top of stiffener near flange centerline and marked location of all holes: 1/4 from end, 1.5" thereafter, and adjusted last 2 or 3 holes to be equal.]

"Position and drill them to the E-601PP skins as you did the rudder." (Added: From rudder section:) Tape top half of skin back out of way, "Carefully clamp the E-601PP elevator skin to the table (added:) (bottom side on table), position a stiffener (from correct set for that side) on the skin and drill [added: (#41)] through the stiffener and the skin, into the table top" (added: or particle board cover). "Insert a cleco, directly into the table. Repeat until all the stiffeners are drilled" (added:) on one side.)

"Remove the clecos, turn the skin over and drill the stiffeners to the opposite inside face of the E-601PP elevator skin. Be sure to properly orient the stiffeners. See DWG 4PP.

"Disassemble" (Added:) Use soldering iron on outer side of skin and remove strips of protective plastic from all rivet lines "and debur the holes.

"When drilling is complete," (added:) drill leading edge pop rivet holes (#30), "debur, dimple . . ." (from above)

(Added:) Before dimpling, put masking tape over line of rib rivet holes at tops and bottoms of skin and at spar location - not to be dimpled until drilled to ribs & spar - in V-block jig. Support skin on particle board that has been shimmed up so skin is level when bottom dimple die is up through hole in skin - only dimple holes for stiffeners - not two ribs and spar, since they have not yet been final drilled.) . . . Dimple stiffeners.

(Added:) Finish most of skin edges with Scotchbrite wheel (Added/revised:) Clean & prime.

"Back rivet the stiffeners to the E-601PP R skin."

"Complete the trailing edge bend of the E-601PP skin. Follow the directions for the rudder." (Added:) Mount brake on table and complete this task, then remove brake - makes room to mount V-block jig.

"THE JIG"

"The rudder V-groove jig will not work well for the elevators because the elevator cross section is different. A new jig must be made from the V-blocks supplied for the elevators. The elevator jig includes a third V- block near the center to support the left elevator and trim tab."

(From Rudder:) "The V cuts in the blocks have intentionally been left unfinished. Draw a centerline the length of the wedge, through the tip of the angle and continue it to the foot of the block. Complete the cuts with a handsaw, carefully keeping the saw to the outside of the existing saw kerf, then replace the wedge in the groove.

(Added:) Remove V-1 from its 2X4, attach 2X4 in same place using same holes in table, position V-3 at 2X4 with centerline mark at baseon centerline on table, place V-1 against V-3 with its centerline on table's centerline, and match drill 1/8" through V-1's holes thru V-3's. Attach V- 3 to 2X4.

(Added:) Extend centerline on table used for rudder to 40 1/4" (per DWG 8PP).

(Added:) Remove V-2 from its 2X4, attach 2X4 in same place using same holes in table, position V-5 at 2X4 with centerline mark at base on centerline on table, place V-2 against V-5 with its centerline on table's centerline, and match drill 1/8" through V-2's holes thru V-5's. Attach V- 5 to 2X4.

"When you are finished, the V-blocks should be square to the centerline on the table and perpendicular to the tabletop, parallel to each other" (added: (measure distance between tops and bottoms - should be equal) ", and firmly attached. Additional stiffeners of 1x4 or light metal angle may be nailed along the sides to connect the endpieces and stiffen the cradle. Remember, the rudder can only be as straight as the cradle." (end of text from pp. 6-8 & 9)

"BUILDING THE SKELETON OF THE ELEVATOR"

(Added:) Take E-605 & E-604 ribs, polish edges, and flute so webs are flat (DWG 8PP).

"Drill and cleco the E-603 end rib to the E-604 rib. Keep the rivets as close as possible to the flanges of the ribs to leave room for the lead counterweights." (Added:) Lay out accurate centerline from front to back end of E-604; measure lead wt width and length and lay out centered on web of E-604, then measure and lay out approximately 3/8" wide "slot" on each edge of lead and lay out on web of E-604. Plan on 2 rivets on each side behind lead - 3/16 (rivet's shop head width) from inner edge of slot; other 3 rivets 1/4" from estimated inside of rib flange; start rivet locations 3/4" from aft end, spaced 2 inches forward, leaving fwd rivet about 1/4 (min) to 3/8 from fwd end.

. . . (Added:) Drill E-604 (#30) by itself, debur, then use 2 vise- grip clamps to hold E-604 and E-603 together, fwd ends and side flanges visually aligned perfectly, then clamp securely and drill and cleco through E-604 into E-603. Debur. Leave cleco'd together.

"Fit [cleco] and drill the E-601PP and E-611PP reinforcement plates to aft side of the spar." (Added:) Use round file and make small mark at narrow end for reinstallation after priming.

(Added:) Put skin and spar in V-block jig. Remove plastic from E-609 and draw centerlines 5/16" from edges.

"Cleco the E-602PP spar to the E-601PP skin. Use a" [replace "hand seamer" with "1/8 inch bar rounded on edge & held in rib tab's bend radius and tap with mallet) "to bend the forward flange [ tab ] on the E-609 rib until" (added: it matches angle on drawing and ) "the rib can be clamped to the spar and aligns with the edge of the skin. Clamp the rib in place"

(added: ,trace skin onto 1 of rib's flanges that sticks out beyond the skin, remove the rib, trim and polish that edge, radius corners and polish other edges, trace outline of rib tab on spar, re-install rib on spar in skin, layout 2 holes centers on spar web 5/16 from edge of tab outline (about 9/16 inch from end of spar before it is trimmed) and 1/2 to not more than 5/8 inch either side of centerline of spar, re-clamp rib to spar and skin with rib flange centerlines showing in prepunched skin holes, ) "and drill (#41) two holes through the spar and E-609 rib flange [tab]." (Added:) Trace E-609 rib's tab on a aft side of spar web for later trimming of spar to eliminate interference with Wd-605. [ Delete the following, which is repeated later in the correct sequence: "The spar and rib will be riveted together with flush head rivets, so that the Wd-605 control horn can be mounted over the intersection without interfering." ]

(Added:) Carefully slip E-603 tip rib into skin, checking to see if flanges are causing skin to bulge out - hand squeeze the rib flanges to fit inside skin without bulging skin out of alignment with V-block. Trim the flanges of E-604 to clear the flanges of the spar. Trace E-604 tab on spar, remove E-604 rib, take skeleton out of skin, clamp E-604 on spar in outlined position, and drill (#30) 2 holes. Debur.

"Position and clamp the" (delete "E-609 root rib and" - already done above) E-604 tip rib to the spar [moved "(after trim the flanges of E-604 to clear the flanges of the spar.)" to preceding step ] Drill E-604 & spar (#30), (added: disassemble skeleton,) debur," (added: dimple 2 holes in spar and E-609 tab (3/32 dimple dies): Because of angle at which tab is bent, use 3/32 vise grip dimpler. Trim end of spar to allow Wd-605 to fit flush against both the spar and rib), "prime (added: including 2 platenuts), "and rivet them (added: E-604 to E-603, then E-604/603 and E- 609) "to the spar. The" (added: E-609) "root rib is attached with two flush (added: 3/32, not 1/8; per DWG-4PP, use AN-426-AD3-3.5) rivets near the center of the spar web. The flush heads are forward, so the rivet heads will not interfere with the Wd-605 control horn that will be installed later. Having these ribs riveted on at this point greatly simplifies the fitting of the elevator spar to" [ ??? ] "the horizontal stabilizer." [ WD-605? ] (Added: Used tall squeezer yoke 2 thick 2 thin washers

"Clamp the Wd-605 control horn in place, around the corner formed by the E-602PP spar and the E-609 rib. File " (added: or trim) "away the end of the spar just enough to let the horn fit tightly against both the spar and the rib. (already done above). The tube of Wd-605 should align with the spanwise centerline of the E-602PP spar. If the arm of Wd-605 extending down the root rib does not fit exactly (added: i.e., is not flush on rib), and tries to twist the rib or spar, it may be filed or ground to fit" (added:) as follows: Keep Wd-605 ear on spar flush and rotate Wd-605 about that ear until ear on rib is flush or until it hits interference with spar or rib flanges near that intersection. Mark point of interference on the edge of Wd-605 and file away until ear on rib is flush." Once Wd-605 is fitted and clamped in place, (added: remove it, )mark it for the rivets that will attach it to the spar and the E-609 rib. The nominal spacings are shown on DWG 5PP, but may be adjusted slightly to fit. Remember, you need access on both sides to buck or squeeze the rivets." (added: Use 5/16 edge distance from narrow end of ears and 5/16 edge distance from long edges. That locates the two end holes on each ear furthest from weld. Locate other two holes 1 1/4 inch apart. This allows clearance from E-609 tab on spar ear and room for access to squeeze rivets. "Remove Wd-605, drill [added: (#30)] and debur the holes."

"Clamp the drilled Wd-605 on the spar/rib assembly and use it as a guide to drill the E-602PP spar and E-609 rib. Leave the horn clecoed for now." [ end of p. 6-12, 10/24/96 6SCT6PP.doc, start of p. 6-13 ]

"FITTING THE SKELETON TO THE ELEVATOR SKIN"

(Added:) Mark 5/16 centerlines on E-603 and E-609 ribs.

"Put the E-601PP skin in the jig. Slide the rib/spar skeleton into the "mouth" of the skin, just as you did with the rudder. Cleco the spar to the skin, then align the tip and root ribs with the holes in the skin and clamp them. Drill [Added: (#41 - change the bit!)] the skin to the spar and ribs" (added:) starting in middle of spar and working away in both directions, since skin holes seem to be slightly further apart than spar holes, evidenced by skin not laying flat on spar unless held by clecos along entire length. Do ribs last so skin can "flow" out (while riveting spar & skin) without being held by clecos in ribs."

(Added: Remove 5 clecoes from each side of tip rib and ) "Slip the E- 613 counterbalance skin in place, between the elevator skin and the tip ribs, wrapping it around the leading edge of the E-603 and E-604 tip ribs. Align and drill the E-613PP to the ribs and skin."

"Disassemble the elevator, debur, dimple and prime."

(Added:) Cleco Wd-605, reinforcing plates E-610 & -611 with platenuts to spar, then rivet them to spar.

(Added:) Insert 1/8 inch dowel (waxed & coated with silicone spray) and slightly file any stiffener ends that grip the dowel - or reduce diameter of dowel, until it slides in without interference. Then coat the dowel with liquid dish soap so RTV won't stick to it. Apply RTV to end of each stiffener, like Rudder: Can use 12 inches of surgical tubing with a 12.5 inche metal rod slightly smaller than inside diameter of tubing as a piston. Insert RTV dispenser into exit end of tubing, squeeze out enough RTV to fill 3 inches of tubing, then slowly insert piston until resting on RTV. Lower end of tubing with RTV down between flanges of a pair of stiffeners to trailing edge, then slowly dispense RTV with piston, filling the middle, then each side with RTV. . . . .Cleco skeleton and skin together.

"Rivet the elevator together." (Added: Start in middle of spar and work outward. Do ribs last.

(Added:) If missed drilling (#30) and dimpling (1/8) holes for CS4-4 rivets, and instead drilled 3/32 (#41) and dimipled 3/32, then simply drill out holes to #40. If not done before, check your pop rivet tool - you should use the tip with smallest diameter hole that the pop rivet nail will go into. Put a rivet nail into the tip, insert body of rivet into hole, press in hard with nose of pop rivet tool until flush, then squeeze handle. (A less satisfactory solution is to drill the holes to 7/64 - 1/64 over - and use MK 319-BS, a high strength pop rivet with 3/32 flush head BUT it is slightly shorter than ideal and may be weak in that respect, whereas the CS4-4 rivets are the correct length and will form a full strength shop head.

(Added:) Install counterbalance weights per DWG 4PP. Note that the holes in weights are drilled like the drawing shows: One is 3/4" from end, other is 1" from other end. The one 3/4" from end goes forward, and the tooling hole in rib is NOT used - you have to use a lead weight as a guide and drill through both holes through the rib.

. . . One way to drill through the lead without the drill bit enlarging the holes is to buy a 1" length of 3/16 copper tubing, make it straight, mark 5/8" from end, hold a pocket knife over the mark and roll the tubing back and forth until tubing is cut, chamfer each end, tapering one end more than other so it will slide into lead weight easier. Press it into hole that is 3/4" from end, hold weight with that end forward and butted against shop heads of 3/32 rivets in fwd end of skin, pilot drill 7/64, remove weight, change to 3/16 drill bit, drill the hole in rib to full size, temporarily install weight with a bolt through forward hole, then repeat pilot and final drilling the aft hole.

"Complete the leading edge bend of the E-601PP skin exactly as was done with the rudder." (Added:) It is definitely easier to do one section at a time. Do "inside half" (side that has the 90 degree lip) first, one section at a time, then the other side. When doing the second side, the two sides can be carefully bent away from each other enough to curl the second side enough. The curling of about half of the final shape and final bending by hand is a crude work of art - concentrate on being slow, careful, and artful with the hand bending, until you can bend together, cleco, and have a decent shape result.

"FITTING THE ELEVATOR TO THE STABILIZER"

"Install the rod end bearings as shown in DWG 5PP" (added:) : install lock nut on both rod end bearings, then screw in rod end bearings for HS- 412 & -413 until centerlines of bearing holes are 13/16 inch from web of elevator spar - this will give the 2 1/4 inch dimension between spar webs shown in DWG 5PP. (There are 24 threads per inch, so takes 3 turns for 1/8" change, 1.5 turns for 1/16" change.) "and install the completed elevator on the horizontal stabilizer with" (delete "bolts" and replace with "home made hinge pins "through the HS-412PP and HS-413PP hinge brackets. Align the trailing edge on the extended chordline of the stabilizer: "in trail." The counterbalance arm should align evenly with the stabilizer."

. . . . (Added: David Carter had to trim about 1/16 inch of skin that interfered with leading edge of counterbalance weight skin.)

"Secure the elevator in this position. Insert a drill bushing (Any small metal tube may be used as a bushing. It should have a 1/4" outside diameter so that it fits snugly into HS-411PP. A 3/32" interior diameter would be just right to hold a #40 drill. The idea is protect the bearing from the drill bit) and use it as a template to locate and drill the hole in the Wd-605 elevator horn for the bolt that attaches the horn to the center bracket. Pilot drill the horn to #40." (added:) For drill bushing, could use [[ NOT NOT "1/4 inch OD copper tubing - too big OD & too big ID for pilot drilling ]]

"Remove Wd-605 horn" (added: from HS-411PP, i.e., remove elevator from horizontal stabilizer) "and drill it carefully to final size" (added: 1/4".

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