. . . (compiled from many amateur sources by David Carter)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Last changed 14 Sep 1998/14:20 CDT

& sent to "Bunny's Guide for RV Building" for posting soon thereafter. Visitors= 

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DISCLAIMER: This document is a heavily expanded version of Van's RV-6 Builder's Manual, 10/24/96 6SCT6PP.doc, "SUBASSEMBLY 5: THE LEFT ELEVATOR & TRIM TAB", starting at top of page 6-13, with text from the Van's manual shown in quotes. Everything else is preceded by "(added:)" followed by the ideas, tips, other steps, and observations added by David Carter from his own experience, from the RV-list, from Frank van der Hulst's "The Bunny's Guide to RV Building", and Sam Buchanan's web site.

This document has no connection to Van's Aircraft Inc. Van's has no responsibility for the way their official manual has been altered. The editor of this collection of "many builder's observations and approaches to building an RV-6" disclaims any responsibility for anyone's use of this manual. The editor is simply another "first time builder", has never built any other aircraft, is not an aircraft mechanic, and knows nothing about building aircraft other than what he has learned informally from other amateur home builders and from his own experience. IF YOU WANT OFFICIAL GUIDANCE FOR YOUR PROJECT, CONTACT VAN'S AIRCRAFT DIRECTLY.

This document was created in WordPerfect 6.0 for DOS and converted to HTML simply by adding the [HTML][HEAD][TITLE] . . .[/TITLE] LINE and the [/HEAD][BODY] LINE at top, then [P] codes at the start of every paragraph, which automatically inserts a blank line and starts a new paragraph; then added a single line at end: [/BODY][/HTML] , then "saving as" file type "ASCII, standard". The [ and ] symbols used above are actually < and > but they don't display in an HTML document. The [P] codes can go at the end of a paragraph or at the beginning of the following paragraph. It was easier for me to simply run the cursor down the left margin of the screen and repetitively paste [P] at the start of every paragraph.

COMMENT: It having been saved as an ASCII file, it has lots of hard returns that may look funny on your word processor. Web browsers ignore those hard returns. If you are serious about editing and re-printing your own, you may want to first print the document from your browser, so you get a decent copy to view, then do a "search and replace" for the ASCII hard return character and replace all but those where you want a blank line separating paragraphs or ideas - then "save as" a different file name for use by your word processor.

- - - - - - - - - and now, "the document" - - - - - - - - - - -

(Van's Builder's Manual, p. 6-13 through 6-15, 10/24/96 6SCT6PP.doc, shown in quotes; annotation of builder tips and changes are preceded by "(added:)" or "(delete . . .)"

"SUBASSEMBLY 5: THE LEFT ELEVATOR & TRIM TAB"

(Added:) If you want to use flush head screws to fasten E-616 cover plate to bottom of elevator, then order them now: 7 each K1100-06 countersunk platenuts and 7 each AN505-6 flush head screws (to replace the AN515-6 round head screws and corresponding K-1000-06 platenuts).

"The left elevator with the trim tab seems to be the most frequent source of builder error in the empennage. It IS slightly more difficult than the right elevator. The technique of bending tabs to finish an open end is new, but with the practice and experience you've gained on the rudder and right elevator, and with careful attention to the plans, you will get good results."

"BEGINNING THE LEFT ELEVATOR"

(p. 6-13) "Repeat the procedures for fitting the skin to the spar and for installing the stiffeners. The only difference on the left elevator is the use of the E-615PP reinforcing bracket, supporting the trim cable or servo, and the E-606 rear spar." (Added:) Another difference is the 3 bottom skin stiffeners and 4 top skin stiffeners forward of the trim tab.

[ The following is copied from "right elevator" document, modified for things unique to left elevator. ]

"FITTING THE STIFFENERS TO THE ELEVATOR SKIN"

(Added:) Put tape on sharp corner of top and bottom skin at inboard/aft corner to prevent these "floppy" sections from making many gouges on the inside surface of skins as you handle and flip the skin for various steps.

(Added:) Peel protective plastic from inside of skin - be careful not to crease/bend skin. On outside of skin use hot soldering iron and remove plastic around prepunched holes for spar and ribs. Peel plastic from both sides of E-602PP spar channel - and all other parts.

(Added:) Use felt tip pen and mark "top" and "bottom" on both outside surfaces and both inside surfaces of skin. Place the E-601PP skin on the table (or particle board cover) with trailing edge away from you, bottom side down. "Cleco the (added: top of ) E-601PP skin to the E-602PP spar." Flip skin over, trace the top and bottom ends and trailing edge side (web) of spar on top skin, cleco bottom side of skin to spar, flip skin over, remove clecos from top side of skin, trace spar ends & web side on bottom of skin. Remove clecos & spar.

(Added:) Draw lines that define ends of stiffeners and location of last trailing edge rivet: Draw a line 1/8" aft of spar web; draw a line 3/16" from trailing edge; and draw a line 3/4" from trailing edge. The trailing edge lines may be drawn this way: With 1/8" dowel taped at each end of trailing edge, hold edge of ruler against dowel and make marks 1/16" and 5/8" from dowel on one end, then do same at other end - this defines the 3/16" and 3/4" lines. Flip skin and make same line and marks on other side of skin. Use a long straight edge, cleco clamp each end close to the 3/16 marks, place bucking bars and other weights about midway between leading and trailing edges of skin, curve top of skin back out of way of felt pen and hold top of skin back with head, then connect the 3/16" marks. (If no long enough straight edge, make more marks inside skin to connect with 18 inch ruler.) Repeat for 3/4" marks, then 1/8" marks from tracing of spar web. Flip skin and repeat.

(Added:) Clamp E-606 rear spar with its flange edges flush with trailing edge of skin in trim tab area and trace its web onto skin. Flip skin and do same on other side. Remove E-606 and draw a line 1/8 inch forward of, and parallel to, the web line just drawn - both sides.

(Added:) From DWG 4PP note that the solid line for first, most inboard, stiffener on bottom skin goes 9 3/8" from inboard forward corner of skin, with 6 more spaced 5 1/2 inches apart from there. Place bottom of skin on table, mark all these locations on the "1/8 inch from spar web" line.

Cleco spar back on to bottom of skin at ends and middle, hold machinist's square against spar, and draw the 7 solid lines (solid indicating that the stiffener sides perpendicular to skin go here).

Remove spar and use longer ruler to extend these lines between the "line 1/8 inch aft of spar" to the "line 3/16 inch from trailing edge"; and, for the 3 stiffeners forward of trim tab, the lines are drawn between the two lines 1/8 inch from each spar web line.

After drawing all the solid lines, measure and mark 5/8 inch outboard of each, re-install spar with 3 clecos, use machinist's square, and draw dashed lines. This outlines the stiffener locations on bottom skin.

Flip skin over so top skin is on table. Remember to reverse the orientation of stiffeners on this side and offset them 1/8 inch per DWG 4PP. Also, there is an additional stiffener on this side. Refer to DWG 4PP - note that the solid line for first stiffener on this side is 5 1/8 inch from corner of skin. The solid line for second stiffener goes 9 7/8 from corner (9 3/8 on DWG for bottom side + 5/8 width of angle - 1/8 offset = 9 7/8). Subsequent solid lines go 5 1/2 inches from that solid line at 9 7/8.

Cleco spar to top skin at ends and middle, hold machinist's square against spar, and draw the 8 solid lines (solid indicating that the stiffener sides perpendicular to skin go here).

Remove spar and use longer ruler to extend these lines between the "line 1/8 inch aft of spar" to the "line 3/16 inch from trailing edge"; and, for the 4 stiffeners forward of trim tab, the lines are drawn between the two lines 1/8 inch from each spar web line.

After drawing all the solid lines, measure and mark 5/8 inch INBOARD of each, re-install spar with 3 clecos, use machinist's square, and draw dashed lines. This outlines the stiffener locations on top skin.

(Added:) Flip skin so bottom side is on table. Now measure the length of each stiffener on this side, as they have been laid out, between "the line 1/8 inch from spar web" and "the line 3/16 inch from trailing edge" (or "line 1/8 from aft spar") - write length of each stiffener on skin by its outline. Flip skin and measure stiffener lengths on top side & record as above.

"Fabricate the stiffeners from the AA3 .025x5/8"x5/8" angle provided. See DWG 4PP." (Added) Before cutting any long piece, remove the protective plastic from both sides of angle stock.

"Layout the centerlines" (added: 1/4" from edges of flanges for ease in dimpling and riveting). The centerlines will be useful later in mentally keeping track of orientation as you lay stiffeners on skin. One way to set up for making the stiffeners is to clamp a small block of wood or metal about 2" long to the edge of the work table to right of where you are standing - use a square to make the left side perpendicular to edge of table. Then trace a line onto table on this side of the block and remove the block. Use a protractor and draw a 1" long line from the edge of the table at 15 degrees to the left of the block. Replace the block, again assuring it is perpendicular to edge of table.

Measure 6" left of block and draw line perpendicular to edge of table.

(Added:) NOTE: The stiffeners by trim tab do not require the 6 inch taper on trailing edge.

To make each stiffener, take a piece of angle stock, lay it on skin between lines marking its location, with side having centerline lying on the skin. Label it "Bottom" (or "Top") "#1" (or "#2", 3, 4, 5, 6, or 7") near end closest to spar. This and centerline will help you keep oriented as you trim each end to its unique shape.

(Added:) Now lay the 18" ruler with its edge at edge of table and "zero end" butted up against the block clamped to table. Lay angle stock on top - mark the length. Set machinist's square to 1/2" and hold ruler perpendicular to edge of angle with end of ruler almost touching radius of angle, at the mark for length - draw a line perpendicular to edge of angle all the way to radius of angle. Flip angle over and hold square so its ruler edge allows you to transfer the line from other side across this side. Use sheet metal shears and cut one side into radius, then flip and cut other side into radius and part will separate - ends will be very nearly square. Touch them up with sander or a file to make as perpendicular as you like. Repeat until all stiffeners are cut.

(Added:) Now trim ends: Start with 15 degree cut on end nearest spar - lay angle on corner of table, butted against block, with side having centerline hanging down (vertical) so unmarked side is laying on table to be marked and cut - lay short ruler on top and to draw 15 degree line at end of angle. Cut along line. (Skip this next step for stiffeners in trim tab area). Next, set machinist square so ruler sticks out 1/8" and hold square's ruler vertical with 1/8" sticking out top, and lay angle with "centerline" side on square with "trailing edge" end of angle touching ruler - mark 1/8 up from "centerline" side. Lay that same end of angle on edge of table butted against block - make mark at 6" from trailing edge on side not having the centerline (use 6" line on table, or ruler). Connect the 1/8" mark and 6" mark, then cut on line with shears. Take to belt sander (or file) and round all corners, especially making the 1/8" radius at trailing edge end of stiffener, per plans.

Next to last, if it is a stiffener for bottom side of skin, use round file to make small indentation at the end nearest the spar, on the side of angle that is perpendicular to skin (side without centerline). By marking only the bottom side stiffeners with a file mark (which paint won't obscure) you will keep the "bottom side" stiffeners separate from "top side".

Last of all, lay stiffener in place on skin, accurately position end against "1/8" from spar" line, and then look straight down on "trailing edge end" and mark trailing edge rivet hole location on centerline by visual reference to the "line 3/4 inch from trailing edge" as it goes under the stiffener. Stack stiffener with rest of bottom or top stiffeners. Make rest of stiffeners. NOTE: Short stiffeners in trim tab area can have their aft-most hole 1/4 inch from end, like at leading edge.

(Added:) Smooth edges of all stiffeners on Scotchbrite wheel.

(Added:) [I didn't like my steel "drill guide" so stopped using it - simply laid stiffeners in "drill box", then laid 18" ruler's edge on top of stiffener near flange centerline and marked location of all holes: 1/4 from end, 1.5" thereafter, and adjusted last 2 or 3 holes to be equal.]

(Added:) A low cost rivet fan can be made from a piece of elastic used in sewing clothing. Lay out marks every 3/4 inch. To use, hold one end on a forward rivet hole location and stretch it until a mark lines up on trailing edge hole location, with a ruler laid next to elastic so you can be sure not to exceed 1 1/2 inches between stiffener rivets.

"Position and drill them to the E-601PP skins as you did the rudder." (Added:) Tape top half of skin back out of way, "Carefully clamp the E- 601PP elevator skin to the table (added:) (bottom side on table), position a stiffener (from correct set for that side) on the skin and drill [added: (#41)] through the stiffener and the skin, into the table top" (added: or particle board cover). "Insert a cleco, directly into the table. Repeat until all the stiffeners are drilled" (added:) on one side.)

(Existing:) Remove the clecos, turn the skin over and drill the stiffeners to the opposite inside face of the E-601PP elevator skin. Be sure to properly orient the stiffeners. See DWG 4PP.

DRILL THE E-615 REINFORCING PLATE TO BOTTOM SKIN

"The pre-punched pattern for E-615PP matches the holes on the E-601PP skin, so, other than final drilling the holes, no further fitting is required." Cleco the 7 platenuts to E-615 then cleco E-615 to skin (with .032 shim strips if you chose to make them). Drill (#41) every hole including for attaching 7 platenuts - but not the 7 large bolt holes (centers of platenuts).

Change to #30 drill and drill leading edge pop rivet holes.

"Disassemble" (Added:) Use soldering iron on outer side of skin and remove strips of protective plastic from new rivet lines

"and debur the holes" in skin (for stiffeners and leading edge pop rivets), E-615 (and its shim strips), and stiffeners.

DIMPLING:

(Added:) Before dimpling, put masking tape over lines of rib rivet holes at both ends of skin and along both spars - not to be dimpled until final drilled to ribs & spar - in V-block jig, to try to minimize oil canning.

Support skin on particle board that has been shimmed up so skin is level when bottom dimple die is up through hole in skin.

Make & install a flat rectangular piece of wood or metal with hole in center over male die to support skin in the area immediately around the dimple - to prevent "over dimpling" or "dimpling the dime-sized area around the dimple". Piece can be 1" wide, 2.5" long, about 1/4" thick (so male die is fully extended), with hole 1/2" diameter for male die to fit in.

Dimple holes for stiffeners and E-615 reinforcing plate (and it's .032 shim strips). One smack is USUALLY enough, but if working near trailing edge and holding skin back, which tends to raise skin up slightly off of the male die and the support block you built, hold the skin down (with a flat bucking bar near hole) and use TWO smacks. If you get the nice shiney circle all the way around, not just a semi-circle, you've done good.

If using flush head bolts for E-616 cover plate, machine countersink 7 bolt holes on bottom/outer surface of cover plate before painting cover plate.

(Added:) Finish most of skin edges with Scotchbrite wheel.

(Added/revised:)

Clean & prime - inside of skin; inside (upper) surface of E-616 cover plate (put tape strips over bottom/exterior side of cover plate to prevent priming it) and prime the machine countersink holes on its outside (bottom) surface; E-615 reinforcing plate (and its shim strips, if any) and its 7 nutplates, and stiffeners - and INSIDE of E-613 counterbalance weight skins.

"Back rivet the stiffeners to the E-601PP L skin." (Added:) Squeeze flush rivets for 7 platenuts on top side of E-615 reinforcing plate - BEFORE it is riveted to skin, so can use squeezer. Then back rivet the E- 615 reinforcing plate (and its shim strips if any) to inside of skin.

FINAL BEND OF TRAILING EDGE[S] [of Elevator, and of Trim Tab]

(Added:) Before bending, tape 1/8 inch dowels inside trailing edge radius, same ones used in rudder & right elevator. Dowels may be held in contact with trailing edge by duct taping pieces of 1/8 inch scrap (or 2 tongue depressors) butted perpendicular to the dowel. NOTE: Check that 1/8 inch dowels will slide loosely past ends of stiffeners - if any stiffeners are long enough to grab the dowel when skin is folded closed to fit spar, then carefully trim the ends of the offending stiffeners. These 1/8 inch dowels will later be installed before applying RTV to ends of stiffeners and riveting the skin to the skeleton, so there will be a drain hole through each blob of RTV when the dowel is pulled out. If the stiffeners are too long, you won't get the dowel out without gouging it. NOTE: No RTV goes in this area at this time - wait until just before riveting skin to skeleton.

"Complete the trailing edge bend of the E-601PP skin. Follow the directions for the rudder." (Added:) Mount brake on table and complete this task.

(From Van's p. 6-14)

". . . complete the trailing edge bend of the E-619PP trim tab skin . . ." [so won't have to mount brake again]; then remove brake - makes room to mount V-block jig. [ Plan to mount the brake on one side of table and the V-block jigs on the other, so V-blocks don't have to be disturbed after build right elevator. ]

THE JIG

Re-install V-3 & V-5. "The elevator jig includes a third V-block (V-4) near the center to support the left elevator and trim tab." Orndorff didn't mount V-4 as shown on DWG 8PP - he laid it on its side on table when it was time to bend the ends of elevator and trim tab skins.

"When you are finished, the V-blocks should be square to the centerline on the table and perpendicular to the tabletop, parallel to each other" (added: (measure distance between tops and bottoms - should be equal) ", and firmly attached. Additional stiffeners of 1x4 or light metal angle may be nailed along the sides to connect the end pieces and stiffen the cradle. Remember, the rudder can only be as straight as the cradle." (end of text from pp. 6-8 & 9)

BUILDING THE SKELETON OF THE ELEVATOR

(p. 6-13's last paragraph) "Repeat the procedures for building the skeleton of the right elevator for the left elevator. . . . The E-606 rear spar is riveted to the E-605 end rib and floats until it is joined to the skin." (as outlined later below).

(Added:) Take E-603, E-604, E-605 ribs and E-606 aft spar, remove plastic, draw 5/16 flange centerlines on all ribs and aft spar, radius corners, and polish edges.

Flute E-603 and E-604 ribs so webs are flat (DWG 8PP), then check/set angle of E-603 rib flanges so they slope together at same angle that spar tapers towards outboard/tip end; check/set angle of E-605 rib flanges so they spread apart at same angle that spar tapers towards inboard/root end; check/set angle of E-606 aft spar flanges so they slope together at same angle that elevator airfoil shape tapers towards the trailing edge.

TIP RIBS - PREP E-604 FOR COUNTERWEIGHTS; JOINING E-603 & E-604

"Drill and cleco the E-603 end rib to the E-604 rib. Keep the rivets as close as possible to the flanges of the ribs to leave room for the lead counterweights" (added:) as follows:

Lay out accurate centerline from front to back end of E-604; measure lead weight width and length and lay out centered on web of E-604, then measure the "slot" on each edge of lead (approximately 3/8" wide) and lay out on web of E-604. Plan on 2 rivets on each side behind lead, centers 5/32 from inner edge of weight's slot (i.e., 1/8" radius of factory head + 1/32 (for clearance); other 3 rivet centers go 1/4" from estimated inside of rib flange; start rivet locations 3/4" from aft end, spaced 2 inches forward, leaving fwd rivet about 1/4 (min) to 3/8 from fwd end.

(Added:) Drill E-604 (#30) by itself, debur, then use 2 vise-grip clamps to hold E-604 and E-603 together, fwd ends and side flanges visually aligned perfectly (and/or use simulated skins cleco side clamped to E-604 to help align E-603); when clamped securely, drill and cleco through E-604 into E-603. Remove simulated skins, debur.

SPAR REINFORCEMENT PLATES

Cleco "and drill the E-610PP and E-611PP reinforcement plates to aft side of the spar" (added:) (but not nutplates - rivet holes are full size). Remove, debur, use round file and make small mark at narrow end of each plate for reinstallation after priming.

E-605 ROOT RIB - FINISH & DRILL TO SPAR

Take E-605 rib and a 1/8 inch thick bar of steel rounded on one edge to 1/8 inch radius: Clamp radiused edge of bar in bend radius of E-605 rib's forward tab and tap with mallet "to bend the forward flange [ tab ] on the E-605 rib until" it matches angle on drawing and "the rib can be clamped to the spar and aligns with the edge of the skin.

Put skin in jig. "Cleco the . . . spar to the . . . skin."

Carefully slide E-605 rib into skin and check to see if 1 of rib's flanges sticks out beyond the skin like it did on right elevator: If it does, align the one "good" flange's centerline with skin holes and trace skin onto "bad" flange, remove the rib, trim and polish that edge.

"Clamp the rib in place": Replace E-605 in skin and check flange centerlines aligned in skin holes with no stress/twist of rib in skin - clamp it.

Transfer outline of rib tab to forward face of spar web. Lay out 2 hole centers on spar web in that tab outline - 5/16 from long (outboard) edge of tab outline (about 9/16 inch from end of spar before it is trimmed) and 1/2 to not more than 5/8 inch either side of centerline of spar. Recheck rib securely clamped to spar and rib flange centerlines showing in prepunched skin holes,

"and drill" (#41 and cleco) two holes through the spar and E-605 rib flange [tab]."

(Added:) Trace end of E-605 rib web across spar web to mark where to trim spar length to eliminate interference with Wd-605.

E-603 & E-604 TIP RIBS - FINISH & DRILL E-604 TO SPAR

(Added:) Hold E-604 rib in approximate position at end of spar with its tab even with forward web of spar - mark rib flanges where spar flanges will interfere, trim rib flanges to clear the spar flanges, and polish trimmed edges.

Lay out 2 rivet hole centers on fwd face of E-604 rib's end tab: 5/16 from long edge, 5/16 from each side.

(Added:) Cleco E-604 to E-603 and carefully slip E-603 tip rib into skin, sliding it aft until E-604 tab is seated on spar and E-603 flange centerlines are aligned in skin holes - check to see if E-603 rib flanges are causing skin to bulge out, especially at far aft end - hand squeeze the rib flanges to fit inside skin without bulging skin out of alignment with V-block - clamp in position.

For drilling the E-604 to rib you can either 1) clamp E-603 VERY securely to skin and use long #30 drill bit while ribs are in skin; or, 2) you can CAREFULLY trace outline of E-604 tab on spar web, then remove skeleton from skin and clamp E-604 tab to spar, aligned in the accurate outline, then drill and cleco. Drill E-604 to spar using one method or the other. Debur.

E-606 AFT SPAR

Align E-606 rear spar with its flanges flush with trailing edge of skin, flush with corner of skin, and in full contact with E-605's tab, which was bent to correct angle earlier - and clamp it.

Take skin and skeleton assembly out of V-block jig and lay on table. Transfer outline of E-605 tab to aft face of E-606 aft rib, lay out 2 rivet hole centers 5/16 from ends and edge. Clamp securely and drill (#30)

TRIM TAB - START IT SO CAN PAINT PARTS IN THIS COMING "SKELETON'S SESSION"

(from Van's page 6-14)

"and bend the tabs on the ends. See Fig. 6-11PP."

"Drill the bottom surface of the [E-619 trim tab] skin [pre-punched holes] to the E-607 trim tab spar."

"Drill . . . the appropriate horn for your installation: electric or manual trim. Holes in the skin locate the inboard half of the horn. The outboard half must be drilled to match." (Added:) Debur, smooth edges, dimple bottom of skin and spar.

Clean, treat, and paint inside of trim tab skin, trim tab spar, E-617 & -618 trim tab horns, and trim tab hinge - with skeleton parts just below here. Remainder of trim tab assembly will be done after riveting elevator skin to skeleton, except for trim tab attachment point on aft spar.

PREP & PRIME [ both skeleton and trim tab parts ]

(Added: Disassemble skeleton,) debur," (added: dimple 2 holes E-605 tab and in spar (3/32 dimple dies): Because of angle at which tab is bent, use 3/32 vise grip dimpler.

Trim end of spar to allow Wd-605 to fit flush against both the spar and rib),

Clean, surface prep, and "prime" both spars, E-610 & -611 reinforcing plates and 2 platenuts), both ribs, and Wd-605 - and trim tab parts listed a few lines above. Priming Wd-605 now saves a separate small painting batch and gives a good surface for drawing rivet centerlines. After holes are drilled through painted Wd-605, rivets will be (should be) installed wet with primer.

Draw new rib and rear spar flange centerlines: 5/16 for E-603 and E- 605; 7/32 for E-606 rear spar because that is how far the prepunched holes are from edges of skin - spar flanges will be aligned with edges of skin).

RIVETING SKELETON TOGETHER

"rivet" E-610 & -611 reinforcing plates and platenuts to spar, E-604 to E-603, E-605 to the spar, E-606 to E-605, and E-604/603 to spar. NOTE: The E-605 "root rib is attached with two flush (added: 3/32, not 1/8; per DWG- 4PP, use AN-426-AD3-3.5) rivets near the center of the spar web. The flush heads are forward, so the rivet heads will not interfere with the Wd-605 control horn that will be installed later. . ." (Added: Used tall squeezer yoke 2 thick 2 thin washers

DRILL WD-605 TO SKELETON

Put skin and skeleton back in jig and clamp E-605 rib and E-606 rear spar to skin.

"Clamp the Wd-605 control horn in place, around the corner formed by the E-602PP spar and the E-605 rib." . . . "The tube of Wd-605 should align with the spanwise centerline of the E-602PP spar. If the arm of Wd-605 extending down the root rib does not fit exactly (added: i.e., is not flush on rib), and tries to twist the rib or spar, it may be filed or ground to fit"

[The following conflicts with Van's stress on keeping the tube aligned with spar centerline and focuses, instead, on getting the two "ears" of the Wd-605 to lie flush on spar web and rib web:] [(Added:) Keep Wd-605 ear on spar flush and rotate Wd-605 about that ear until ear on rib is flush or until it hits interference with spar or rib flanges near that intersection. Mark point of interference on the edge of Wd-605 and file away until ear on rib is flush."]

"Once Wd-605 is fitted and clamped in place," (added: remove it, ) "mark it for the rivets that will attach it to the spar and the E-605 rib. The nominal spacings are shown on DWG 5PP, but may be adjusted slightly to fit. Remember, you need access on both sides to buck or squeeze the rivets." (added: Use 5/16 edge distance from narrow end of ears and 5/16 edge distance from long edges. That locates the two end holes on each ear furthest from weld. Locate other two holes 1 1/4 inch apart. This allows clearance from E-605 tab on spar and room for access to squeeze rivets. "Remove Wd-605, drill [added: (#30)] and debur the holes."

Clamp the drilled Wd-605 on the spar/rib assembly, use it as a guide, and drill to the E-602PP spar and E-605 rib.

Dip rivets in primer and rivet Wd-605 to spar and E-605 rib.

FITTING THE SKELETON AND SKIN OF THE LEFT ELEVATOR", i.e., DRILLING THE SKIN TO THE SKELETON

(top of page 6-14 of Van's Builder's Manual) "Fit the skeleton to the skin in the same jig you used for the right elevator. The center V-block will hold the elevator skin just outboard of the trim tab cutout and provide additional rigidity. This helps avoid the tendency for the trailing edge to bend at the juncture of the trim tab and outboard elevator skin."

"Mount the E-601PP elevator skin in the V-groove jig. Draw centerlines on all the ribs and E-606 rear spar, then slide the skeleton in place. Cleco the main spar to the skin, and clamp the rest of the skeleton so that all the lines on the ribs and rear spar are showing through the holes in the skin."

"Drill the skin to the skeleton."

CAUTION - before drilling: You need to use some method to minimize oil canning in finished elevator. This usually involves a certain sequence of cleco'ing and drilling the main spar to the skin, and/or sequence for riveting. Check with on-line tips and rv-list archives to take your pick of methods. In lieu of any other method the following two methods may give reasonable results.

Method #1: Start with top skin and cleco it to the main spar starting in middle of main spar and working away in both directions - since skin holes have the appearance of being slightly further apart than spar holes, as evidenced by skin not laying flat on spar unless held by clecos along entire length.

Method #2: Drill and cleco all obvious "low" spots that touch the spar, then go to middle of high spots and "divide the high spot in half" by putting a CLAMP either side of the hole there - drill and cleco that hole. Continue subdividing in that manner until finished.

Drill bottom skin next.

Drill aft spar (both sides, and without trim tab hinge - it will be drilled to these holes later), then do ribs last so skin will have been free to "flow" out towards tips without being held by clamps on ribs.

(Added: Remove 5 clecos from each side of tip rib and ) "Slip the E-613 counterbalance skin in place, between the elevator skin and the tip ribs, wrapping it around the leading edge of the E-603 and E-604 tip ribs. Align and drill the E-613PP to the ribs and skin."

PREP FOR RIVETING SKIN TO SKELETON

"Disassemble the elevator, debur, dimple skin":

(added: NOTE about over-dimpling SKIN for spar & ribs: I think the squeezer wouldn't reach the spar so used Avery tool & mallet. Carter tapped each hole in right elevator twice. Dimples for stiffeners were all perfect after back riveting - the back riveting seems to "refine" the dimples. However, on the spar and ribs the dimples were obviously too deep, i.e., an area for 1/2 inch around the actual dimple was also slightly depressed - so 1) use squeezer if you can; if not, 2) really concentrate on having the skin shimmed up level with the bottom/male die, 3) only tap it once - then check fit/appearance of a flush rivet . . . practice and refine before you settle into a routine - it's not the same as the rudder and two stabilizers! 4) Might want to devise a solid rectangular block with hole in approximate center for male dimple die to fit though, which would support skin in area 1 inch immediately outside the hole being dimpled.

dimple ", main spar, ribs, E-613 counterbalance skin, and BOTTOM flange of rear spar and 4 OUTBOARD holes on TOP flange of rear spar.

Machine countersink remaining holes in TOP flange of E-606 rear spar to accept skin dimples. Spray some primer on countersunk surfaces.

You will NOT rivet top skin to aft spar until fitting trim tab and hinge to that area - so, put tape tangent to holes in top skin for aft spar (all except 4 at outboard end which get pop rivets (or may be driven with solid rivets before riveting bottom skin to spar, if you have the special bucking bar). Later, when cleco aft spar to skin, try to remember to wrap tape around those clecos so you don't remove and drive rivets in them.

RTV IN TRAILING EDGE - JUST BEFORE RIVETING

(Added:) Coat 1/8 inch dowels with Vaseline and insert into trailing edge of elevator. Apply RTV to each pair of stiffeners at trailing edge, like Rudder, minimizing buildup on outboard side (toward tip) to avoid an RTV dam in natural drainage path to inboard corner.

Like for rudder, can use 12 inches of surgical tubing with a 12.5 inch length of 3/16 metal rod (slightly smaller than inside diameter of tubing) as a piston. Insert RTV dispenser into exit end of tubing, squeeze out enough RTV to fill 3 inches of tubing, then slowly insert piston until resting on RTV. Lower loaded end of tubing down between flanges of a pair of stiffeners to trailing edge, then slowly dispense RTV with piston, filling the middle, then inboard side, only, with RTV.

"Cleco the skeleton and skin together" [ DON'T cleco at this time if you are going to use an "anti-oil canning" sequence for drilling and cleco'ing ] "and reinstall the assembly in the jig. Rivet it together EXCEPT for the rivets" [on top skin] "that will attach the trim tab hinge, along the E-606 spar." [ Put tape around those clecos to warn not to pull them and rivet. ]

RIVETING SKIN TO SKELETON

"Rivet the elevator together." (Added: Again, pay attention to "oil canning" reduction. Rivet spar in the same sequence you used for "final drilling", unless there has been a shift in the way the skin lays down on spar: TOP skin to spar (using anti-oil canning sequence), then solid rivets in lieu of 6 pop rivets in TOP skin (if desired - see below)).

Before riveting any of bottom skin to skeleton, remember the Van's Manual: "Before the elevator is riveted together," [meaning before the 2nd side of skin is riveted to the skeleton] "the tabs that close the elevator at the trim tab cutout must be bent. The tabs can be bent by careful use of the wedges that came in the V-block jigs. See Figure 6.18. Note that the upper tab laps over the lower one so the joint sheds water.": Lay V-4 V-block on its side and put trailing edge of elevator into it where tabs are to be bent, then jam the wedge inside skin where tabs are to be bent, then tap bottom tab up with a hammer, then take a piece of board and bend the upper tab down, tapping with a hammer to get final bend.

Draw a fore-aft centerline on tab, then draw a parallel line 1/8 inch above this (to offset rivet heads in this tab and the tab on trim tab, which will go 1/8 inch below centerline), mark 2 rivet centers, drill 2 #30 holes, and install two MD-42-BS monel pop rivets (no coating required).

Continue the overall riveting sequence for "skin to skeleton", i.e., BOTTOM skin to main spar (using anti-oil canning sequence), then bottom skin to aft spar, then ribs.

On bottom skin, install 4 CS4-4 pop rivets in 4 outboard holes of aft spar, then 2 CS4-4 pop rivets in aft 2 holes for counterbalance weight skin. If did not buck solid rivets in lieu of these 6 in TOP skin, then do so now.

- - - - - - - - - - - optional - - - - - - - - -

(Added: You may be able to drive solid rivets in lieu of pop rivets in the TOP skin (which spectators can easily see, unlike lower skin).

- - - -

There are 2 CS4-4 rivets used on each side of skin at aft end of E-613 counterbalance weight skins. There are 4 more at outboard ends of rear spar.

To drive the 2 solid rivets in top skin at E-603, you would first rivet TOP skin to spar, using "anti-oil canning sequence". Then remove elevator from jig, lay it with top side up, put enough clecos through top skin into E-603 rib to hold E-603 in position - check it is square to spar with long surface of machinist's square on spar and short edge on E-604. Put a cleco in one of the 2 holes being riveted.

Hold claw hammer handle and long Avery bucking bar (for extra mass) in left hand, hammer handle horizontal, head pointed up; put solid flush rivet in TOP skin, raise up top skin/spar/E-603 enough to insert claw hammer's head under and behind E-603 rib. With rivet gun and SWIVEL flush set, and air pressure set at 35 psi, do "Ready" with gun, and go with bucking bar substitute. Then do other rivet.

- - - -

Next, to drive the 4 solid rivets in TOP skin at outboard end of aft spar (if you have the special bucking bar that reaches in from leading edge and hooks up behind aft spar); first put elevator back in V-block jig and clamp E-605 rib and E-606 rear spar so their centerlines are centered - CLAMP SECURELY - TO TOP SKIN ONLY.

Remove elevator from jig, lay on table with top skin up and trailing edge to right, hold special bucking bar in left hand, insert through leading edge opening and raise top skin enough to slide bucking bar under aft spar, raise it slightly, and then pull it back toward leading edge until end of hooked bucking end is inside the rear spar channel and under all 4 holes. Put in a rivet and do "Ready" with SWIVEL flush set held firmly down on rivet's flush head and "Go" when bucking bar is seated under rivet. [ Get design for bucking bar, or borrow, from David Carter, (409) 722-7259 or dcarter@datarecall.net . ]

Replace elevator in jig if removed to drive solid rivets and rivet bottom skin to spar, using anti-oil canning sequence (start in middle of spar and work outward; or work on low and high spots, cutting the high spots in half), then rivet BOTTOM skin to aft spar, then ribs.

- - - -

(Added:) The last step is the pop rivets (both sides if you stuck to plans or only on bottom side if you drove soilid rivets in TOP skin). There are 2 CS4-4 rivets used on each side of skin at aft end of E-613 counterbalance weight skins and 4 on each side of skin at outboard end of rear spar. These are 1/8" diameter rivets but their heads are 3/32, so their skin holes were drilled #41 and dimpled 3/32 like all the other holes. Now, drill the holes to #30, then install pop rivets.

NOTE: If not done before, check your pop rivet tool - you should use the tip with smallest diameter hole that the pop rivet nail will go into. Put a rivet nail into the tip, insert body of rivet into hole, press in hard with nose of pop rivet tool until flush, then squeeze handle.

"BUILDING THE TRIM TAB"

"Before fitting it to the E-607 trim tab spar, complete the trailing edge bend of the E-619 trim tab skin and bend the tabs on the ends. See Fig. 6-11PP." [ Was done earlier when bending brake was installed for final bending of elevator trailing edge. ]

"Drill the bottom surface of the skin [pre-punched holes] to the E-607 trim tab spar." [ Was done earlier to avoid another painting session. ]

"Drill [, debur, smooth edges, clean, treat, and paint all parts including hinge ] [ Was done earlier to avoid another painting session. ]

[[ START HERE ]]

"and rivet on the appropriate horn for your installation: electric or manual trim. Holes in the skin locate the inboard half of the horn. The outboard half must be drilled to match. After dimpling, etc." [ etc = dimple trim tab skin for horns? ] "rivet the bottom of the trim tab skin to the bottom of the E-607 spar."

"See DWG 5PP. Drill the top of the trim tab [skin] to the top of the spar and hinge - be careful to align the hinge so it fits with the hinge already fitted to the elevator. [ ??? ] Prepare the componentS for riveting, again, machine countersinking the [ top of ] E-607 trim tab spar to accept the dimples in the skin to avoid countersinking the softer material of the hinge."

"Cleco the tab together, and fit it temproarily to the elevator." [???]

"Remove the clecoes along the E-606 rear spar and clamp the trim tab hinge, with trim tab attached, to the elevator. Adjust the position of the hinge on the elevator slightly so that the gap between the elevator and the tab is even [ and = 1/8 inch ], then use the holes i the skin and spar as a guide to drill the hinge."

"Sight down the trailing edge of the elevator, with the trim tab in trail." [ Clamp a long straight piece to the work table and hold the trailing edge of elevator and trim tab against it to jig them into perfect alignment. ]

"If the tab has any twist and does not continue the straight line of the elevator trailing edge, now is the time to correct it. Even with the clecoes installed, there is enough play in the holes to gently twist the tab as necessary to align it perfectly. When the tab fits, use tape or a second pair of hands to hold it, and drill the folded ends of the tab. With a pair of clecoes in the outboard tab, and a couple of reference marks for alignment, thr trim tab may be removed from the elevator."

"Carefully maintaining the alignment, set the rivets on the top of the trim tab" [skin].

"Set the blind rivets in the ends of the trim tab, making sure they don't interfere with the rivets in the inboard end of the elevtor. [ Draw a fore-aft centerline on outboard tab of trim tab, then a parallel line 1/8" below, then lay out 2 rivet hole centers on that line, drill #30, and install MD-42-BS monel pop rivets. ]

"The Wd-415 stopnut assembly shown the Trim Tab Detail of DWG 5PP comes in a later kit, along with the trim cable."

"FINISHING THE ELEVATORS"

"Bolt the E-614 elevator counterweights to the elevators as shown in DWG 4PP. The weights are probably a little too heavy at this point. Final adjustments are made after the elevators are complete and painted. When trimming the weights to the initial size, unbolt them from the elevator and trim the aft edge with a Vixen file. It is impossible to make the elevator balance exactly until is finished, and then unbolting the weights is impractical." [ because fiberglass tips are riveted on, covering one end of the bolts holding the weights on.] "The best approach is probably to leave the weights a little heavy, then drill the inboard weight with a series of small holes unti lthe elevator balances. A correctly balanced elevator will remain "in trail"." [ Details from Right Elevator section follow. ]

(From "right elevator" section:) Install counterbalance weights per DWG 4PP. Note that the holes in weights are drilled like the drawing shows: One is 3/4" from end, other is 1" from other end. The one 3/4" from end goes forward, and the tooling hole in rib is NOT used - you have to use a lead weight as a guide and drill through both holes through the rib.

One way to drill through the lead without the drill bit enlarging the holes is to buy a 1" length of 3/16 copper tubing, make it straight, mark 5/8" from end, hold a pocket knife over the mark and roll the tubing back and forth until tubing is cut, chamfer each end, tapering one end more than other so it will slide into lead weight easier. Press it into hole that is 3/4" from end, hold weight with that end forward and butted against shop heads of 3/32 rivets in fwd end of skin, pilot drill 7/64, remove weight, change to 3/16 drill bit, drill the hole in rib to full size, temporarily install weight with a bolt through forward hole, then repeat pilot and final drilling the aft hole.

(From "right elevator" section:) "Complete the leading edge bend of the E-601PP skin exactly as was done with the rudder." (Added:) It is definitely easier to do one section at a time. Do "inside half" (side that has the 90 degree lip) first, one section at a time, then the other side. When doing the second side, the two sides can be carefully bent away from each other enough to curl the second side enough. The curling of about half of the final shape and final bending by hand is a crude work of art - concentrate on being slow, careful, and artful with the hand bending, until you can bend together, cleco, and have a decent shape result.

(From "right elevator" section:)

FITTING THE ELEVATOR TO THE STABILIZER

"Install the rod end bearings as shown in DWG 5PP" (added:) : Install lock nut on both rod end bearings, then screw in rod end bearings for HS- 412 & -413 until centerlines of bearing holes are 13/16 inch from web of elevator spar - this will give the 2 1/4 inch dimension between spar webs shown in DWG 5PP. (There are 24 threads per inch, so takes 3 turns for 1/8" change, 1.5 turns for 1/16" change.) "and install the completed elevator on the horizontal stabilizer with" (delete "bolts" and replace with "home made hinge pins "through the HS-412PP and HS-413PP hinge brackets. Align the trailing edge on the extended chord line of the stabilizer: "in trail." The counterbalance arm should align evenly with the stabilizer."

(Added: David Carter had to trim about 1/16 inch of skin that interfered with leading edge of counterbalance weight skin.)

"Secure the elevator in this position. Insert a drill bushing (Any small metal tube may be used as a bushing. It should have a 1/4" outside diameter so that it fits snugly into HS-411PP. A 3/32" interior diameter would be just right to hold a #40 drill. The idea is protect the bearing from the drill bit) and use it as a template to locate and drill the hole in the Wd-605 elevator horn for the bolt that attaches the horn to the center bracket. Pilot drill the horn to #40." (added:) For drill bushing, could use [[ NOT "1/4 inch OD copper tubing - too big OD & too big ID for pilot drilling ]]

"Remove" [elevator from horizontal stabilizer] "and drill it carefully to final size" (added: 1/4".

(From Left Elevator section - somewhat duplicates the preceding:) "Install the elevators on the horizontal stabilizer and make a preliminary check for alignment and travel. There shold be no binding in the hinge line -- the elevator should swing easily through its entire travel. Final checks for correct elevator travel and installing travel stops will be made when the empennage is installed on the fuselage."

"FITTING THE FIBERGLASS TIPS"

(Use Van's manual and other builders' tips - I haven't worked in this area yet and have nothing to add.)

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