Fuel Tank Building Tips

IMHO: 1. The only way to do the fuel tanks is with a caulking gun. I have one to lend to those builders in Southern California.

IMHO: 2. After riveting per Van's instructions with the faying surfaces Prosealed, I"fillet" around the rivets and flanges. I think that this is the way to go. This way it is like a belt and suspenders. If a spot is missed one way, the other should get it.

3. I placed 37 degree caps on the outlet, screwed a gauge into the sump drain and used a 37 degree "Parker Push lock" fitting and hose on the vent to pressurize the tank. The tank was inflated through the hose and a Philips screwdriver used as a plug in the hose. The exterior was "snooped" (soapy water) to check for leaks. I would like to suggest checking FAR 23 (I think it is 23.972) for the FAA recommend criteria. I let my tanks set for 36 hours and also watched the gauge. Tighten the nut on the bottom of your fuel cap until it does not leak. If it leaks air, it will leak fuel in flight.

4. 1 qt of proseal is enough. If you would like to use the caulking gun, empty cartridges, plungers and nozzles can be purchased from U.S. Industrial Tools. The disposable cartridge is less than $2. Get at least 10.

5. That will work, but just smearing it on, riveting, and fillet sealing may not be as messy.

The above techniques have be used successfully on 3 flying RV's and 1 what is almost read to fly. Do not forget to scuff the aluminum before cleaning and applying the proseal.

Gary RV-6 20480 N-157GS

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