Workbench
From Matronics
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Workbenches
Plans for some very solid workbenches can be found at the EAA Chapter 1000 website.
The plans as drawn will produce two benches that are each two feet wide, five feet long, and 33-3/4" high. This size means that you don't end up with a bench that is 10 or 15 feet long and very hard to move or repurpose after your project is complete. Using smaller tables allows you to move and reconfigure the tables single-handedly, and adjust to the needs of your project as they arise.
All of that being said, there are some modifications to these plans that you may find useful.
Different Sizes - C-Frame Dimpler
The plans can be easily modified to accomodate other table sizes if needed. I chose to build a three foot by four foot table, specifically for holding my C-Frame dimpler/squeezer. First, I modified the height dimensions to leave the table 1" shorter than the other two tables. Second, I shifted the cross supports underneath the top so the two middle ones were spaced about 5" apart, to match the base of my C-Frame dimpler, to provide maximum rigidity. Third, when it was all complete, I cut a second sheet of 5/8" plywood into two pieces that fit the top of the table, but left a space down the middle exactly the width of the base of my C-Frame dimpler. I then screwed these pieces to the top of the table from the underside, so no screw heads were left visible.
This leaves an extra 3/8" of height between the top of the C-Frame table and the tops of the other two benches. I placed two rectangles of spare carpet on either side of the C-Frame dimpler. This allows me to slide skins around on the table without the risk of scratching or damaging the metal. The carpet I used is tall enough that when the skins overhang the C-Frame table, they clear the other benches by about 1/8".
Making the Tables Easier to Move
The plans call for gluing and screwing every joint in the tables. This is an excellent idea for maintaining rigidity, but really does make the tables into a rigid, unchangeable box. Some people may find themselves working in a small workshop early on in their project, or in places where moving a two- by three- by five-foot table will be awkward.
The simple fix is to not glue the lower shelf cross-pieces into place. This way, if you do need to move the tables, you can lift the lower shelf, unscrew the two supports, and remove the two long cross-braces. This will allow you to tip the table on its side, and use the clearance now under the table to "wrap" the table through doorways or around corners.
This modification won't make it trivial to move the tables around, because you will need to do some disassembly. But if you don't put glue *everywhere*, it will at least open up a greater number of possiblities if the need arises.
Wheels
Finally, adding wheels to a set of tables would be an excellent idea to increase the utility of these tables. I have been trying to come up with a simple system that would let you push a lever down to release a set of castering wheels, but haven't come up with anything i'm happy with yet. If you are happy with always having castering wheels, you could make the legs a few inches shorter and install heavy-duty casters on one end (I don't reccomend putting them on both ends, as two-foot tables are rather narrow -- If both casters on one long side swing in towards the center of the table, your tipping margin is reduced significantly). Install fixed wheels on the other end, and you can drive the tables like a shopping cart.
Pictures
I need to add some pictures to this page.
