Beech-Archive.digest.vol-ac
May 22, 2000 - November 04, 2000
> I was always partial to the paint scheme on the Bonanza in the Falcon
> Insurance advertisement in the ABS. Done right at my field!
> Al
> Subject: Re: Beech-List: Paint Scheme
>
>
> >
> > Hi
> >
> > I am looking for a paint scheme for my A35, I have been paging through the
> > Bonanza sales on the net but it looks like the realy "nice" looking ones
> are
> > not for sale. It would be appreciated if somebody would share some ideas
> > with me by forwarding some photo's.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Anton Venter
> > adventer(at)netactive.co.za
> > ZS-BYG
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Scheme |
Anton,
Paint schemes are very personal desisions. Here are a few questions that you
need to answer for yourself, and to us if you want us butting in on your
decision:
* Do you want an authentic Beech paint scheme?
* If "yes," do you want it to be authentic to your model, or to the model that
your plane (with all the modifications) looks like?
If yes to either of the above, this limits your selection to still a good number
of schemes. You can look in Larry Ball's "Those Incomparable Bonanzas" and
"They Called Me 'Mr. Bonanza'" for photos of each of the model year planes, and
the paint schemes they used at that time. -- Caution: The second book does NOT
have all of the model year photos. It uses the same photo for several models.
Also, the photos are in black and white. For the actual colors used, you can
try to find the actual sales brochure for your plane's model year, or perhaps
some color advertisements of the day, or use Larry Ball's book for the scheme,
and the Beech Shop Manual to refer to the paint code numbers used for those
years. (I hope the paint colors used today match the codes they used back
then.)
Oh, yeah. Jason Simpkins has photos "very similar to those" on his web page:
http://www.aspenleaf.com/bonanza/
He only has photos of the 35 - G35, but hey, its a start.
If you are going wild with the paint scheme, and want to do a one of those
Glastar paint jobs, you know, the one on floats that is mainly white, but has
blue "water splash" drops all along the side, then you are on your own.
Caution (again): The wilder and more daring the paint scheme, the greater the
odds are that your painter will screw it up to a BIG disappointment. If you
find a paint job that you absolutely love, then contact the owner of that plane,
find out who the painter is, and use him. Budget to the winds. Otherwise,
prepare to be sorry.
If you are still in the "looking" stage, then go over to:
http://madaket.netwizards.net/vtail/
For a gallery of a good number of v-tail bonanzas.
Another word about looking: Paint schemes that look dazzling on a high-wing
plane can look absolutely dreadful on a low-wing plane.
Once you have decided on a scheme, you may want to buy a small plastic model of
the Bonanza and paint it yourself in your proposed paint scheme and colors. It
will look different on the model, and it may not be what you wanted.
St. Norm Colvin had mentioned that the paint scheme does affect the resale value
(if you are interested in that kind of thing). A Beech style paint scheme
doesn't raise the value, but an unusual paint scheme will limit its appeal to
fewer customers.
Paint: Nowadays, the quality of the brands and kinds of paint have sort of
leveled off, so (in my opinion) most any paint is as good as another. Imron,
Alumigrip, Sterling, etc. all seem to have the same qualities, and will last as
long as each other. You may have a wider range to choose from, since you are
not encumbered by our pesky Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA)
regulations about low "volatile organic compounds" in the paint, meaning it
takes a longer time to set up and dry.
I wanted my plane to look "reasonably original," but the factory paint scheme
for the 1954 E35 didn't look that great to me, so I looked around at the classic
Bonanza paint jobs and started experimenting. I finally came up with using the
picture of the Bonanza on the first page of the Beech Parts Manual and made
small modificatons to it. I painted a model -- it looked kinda crummy, so I
went back to the original design, and kept it relatively simple. I went to
several aircraft painters (there are at least half a dozen in Southern
California), and sadly, went with the lowest bidder. The paint job is not
*exactly* what I had specified, but it still turned out okay. Let him use
whatever paint he likes to shoot. Different paints use different techniques,
and if you demand he use a brand he never tried before, there's bound to be
problems, and you don't want that to happen to your plane.
Photos of my plane are at:
http://www.vintagebonanza.com/
under the "Gallery." I'm the guy on the right.
Oh. It took me about 2-1/2 years before I finally had it painted, and about 6
months to get used to the new paint job.
Good luck in your quest,
Ron Davis
Anton Venter wrote:
>
>
> Hi
>
> I am looking for a paint scheme for my A35, I have been paging through the
> Bonanza sales on the net but it looks like the realy "nice" looking ones are
> not for sale. It would be appreciated if somebody would share some ideas
> with me by forwarding some photo's.
>
> Thanks
> Anton Venter
> adventer(at)netactive.co.za
> ZS-BYG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Scheme |
I'm also trying to decide what to do about painting my faded, straight
35. The ship was originally polished, so any paint job is not attempting to
be original. I have been looking for a nice looking, subtle scheme. I have
looked at many BONZ and have found little I liked. On Jason's web sight
(see below) go to photo gallery and find a picture of Terry Frymire's A35,
N756B. I think this paint job is just about right, basic white with well
done accents, nothing gaudy. Accent colors can suit personal taste. I like
looking at this airplane so much, I use this photo as wallpaper on the start
screen of my computor.
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas, NV Straight 35, N4546V
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Paint Scheme
> Oh, yeah. Jason Simpkins has photos "very similar to those" on his web
page:
> http://www.aspenleaf.com/bonanza/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Firewall Shutoff Valve |
This will be a teaser for some. I removed the firewall shutoff cable from
the valve for cable replacement. While I was disassembling the cable end,
the valve became dislodged and is floating around in the housing. Can
anyone tell me how to resecure it through the 1" hole? I've heard some
stories about folks cutting a 1" X 3" square hole and patching, but I'd
rather not do this. Any help out there? How about you microsurgeons!
Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Alston" <jalsto(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Shutoff Valve |
Oh no!!! Don't cut a hole!!!!
Check your local auto parts store for a cheap flexible tool that is about 18
inches long and has a set of teeth at one end and a button at the other.
When you press the button the teeth on the other end extend and grasp small
objects. I got mine for about $3 and it has been a life saver more than
once. The also make one that simply has a magnet in place of the teeth.
Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Date: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 7:36 PM
Subject: Beech-List: Firewall Shutoff Valve
>
>This will be a teaser for some. I removed the firewall shutoff cable from
>the valve for cable replacement. While I was disassembling the cable end,
>the valve became dislodged and is floating around in the housing. Can
>anyone tell me how to resecure it through the 1" hole? I've heard some
>stories about folks cutting a 1" X 3" square hole and patching, but I'd
>rather not do this. Any help out there? How about you microsurgeons!
>Al
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Shutoff Valve |
Thanks for the tip. Sounds like you've tackled this already. I've got one
of those thingies! Now how do I go about placing the valve back in the
track without being able to see?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Alston" <jalsto(at)flash.net>
Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 1:31 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Firewall Shutoff Valve
>
> Oh no!!! Don't cut a hole!!!!
> Check your local auto parts store for a cheap flexible tool that is about
18
> inches long and has a set of teeth at one end and a button at the other.
> When you press the button the teeth on the other end extend and grasp
small
> objects. I got mine for about $3 and it has been a life saver more than
> once. The also make one that simply has a magnet in place of the teeth.
> Jon
> -----Original Message-----
> From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)ev1.net>
> To: Beech List
> Date: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 7:36 PM
> Subject: Beech-List: Firewall Shutoff Valve
>
>
> >
> >This will be a teaser for some. I removed the firewall shutoff cable
from
> >the valve for cable replacement. While I was disassembling the cable
end,
> >the valve became dislodged and is floating around in the housing. Can
> >anyone tell me how to resecure it through the 1" hole? I've heard some
> >stories about folks cutting a 1" X 3" square hole and patching, but I'd
> >rather not do this. Any help out there? How about you microsurgeons!
> >Al
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | e-bay auction, December 1947 Flying magazine |
Listers,
Did anyone on the list buy this magazine? I downloaded the photo from
e-bay, and resolution is pretty bad. My question: Is this really a picture
of three vintage Bonanzas, or are they three plastic models sitting on a
patio flagstone? The expansion joint in the concrete ramp looks
suspiciously wide to me. I'm still analysing, I'm just trying to determine
if these are true examples of genuine, vintage airplanes and paint schemes
and or some mockup. Whoever has the magazine cover should have a better
copy to examine,
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35, N4546V
Original message:
Thanks Ron;
You know what a sucker I am for that stuff. I've got a bid in for it and
I'll let you see it one day (maybe San Antonio) if I get it!
AL
>Guys,
>
> I sas surfing eBay, and came upon a December 1947 issue of FLYING Magazine
for
> sale.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=324875748
>
> The accompanying photo shows the cover of the issue, with three Bonanzas
on it.
>
> The image alone is worth keeping just as a record of the color schemes
used --
> didn't know about the white and blue scheme in 1947.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: e-bay auction, December 1947 Flying magazine |
Randy,
I didn't buy it at over $50, but I believe the photo to be genuine. The detail
of the doors and cowling of the planes are just too good to be models. Also, it
December 1947 Flying Magazine. That means the photos were probably done in
September '47 or earlier, what with the 2-3 month lead time in producing
magazines.
The N-numbers are clear enough to make out: NC3135V, NC3188V, and NX80040.
A database search shows that 3135V is now on another plane (homebuilt), 3188V is
gone, but 80040 is on a straight-35 Bonanza currently owned by Jon Muckleroy.
Ron Davis
"Randy L. Thwing" wrote:
>
>
> Listers,
> Did anyone on the list buy this magazine? I downloaded the photo from
> e-bay, and resolution is pretty bad. My question: Is this really a picture
> of three vintage Bonanzas, or are they three plastic models sitting on a
> patio flagstone? The expansion joint in the concrete ramp looks
> suspiciously wide to me. I'm still analysing, I'm just trying to determine
> if these are true examples of genuine, vintage airplanes and paint schemes
> and or some mockup. Whoever has the magazine cover should have a better
> copy to examine,
> Regards,
> Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35, N4546V
>
> Original message:
> Thanks Ron;
> You know what a sucker I am for that stuff. I've got a bid in for it and
> I'll let you see it one day (maybe San Antonio) if I get it!
> AL
>
> >Guys,
> >
> > I sas surfing eBay, and came upon a December 1947 issue of FLYING
> > Magazine for sale.
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=324875748
> >
> > The accompanying photo shows the cover of the issue, with three Bonanzas
> > on it.
> >
> > The image alone is worth keeping just as a record of the color schemes
> > used -- didn't know about the white and blue scheme in 1947.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: e-bay auction, December 1947 Flying magazine |
I already had a issue of this magazine. The airplanes appear to be real.
There is also no pictures or article about these in the magazine either.
Bryan Wells
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy L. Thwing <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 10:24 AM
Subject: Beech-List: e-bay auction, December 1947 Flying magazine
>
> Listers,
> Did anyone on the list buy this magazine? I downloaded the photo from
> e-bay, and resolution is pretty bad. My question: Is this really a
picture
> of three vintage Bonanzas, or are they three plastic models sitting on a
> patio flagstone? The expansion joint in the concrete ramp looks
> suspiciously wide to me. I'm still analysing, I'm just trying to
determine
> if these are true examples of genuine, vintage airplanes and paint schemes
> and or some mockup. Whoever has the magazine cover should have a better
> copy to examine,
> Regards,
> Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35, N4546V
>
> Original message:
> Thanks Ron;
> You know what a sucker I am for that stuff. I've got a bid in for it and
> I'll let you see it one day (maybe San Antonio) if I get it!
> AL
>
>
> >Guys,
> >
> > I sas surfing eBay, and came upon a December 1947 issue of FLYING
Magazine
> for
> > sale.
> >
> > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=324875748
> >
> > The accompanying photo shows the cover of the issue, with three Bonanzas
> on it.
> >
> > The image alone is worth keeping just as a record of the color schemes
> used --
> > didn't know about the white and blue scheme in 1947.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: e-bay auction, December 1947 Flying magazine |
On page 4, it contains a caption about the cover
"THE COVER: Bonanzas at Beech Factory, Wichita. Striped plane is
radio-controlled for tests. Photo by A.E. Haug."
----- Original Message -----
From: BG Wells <bgwells(at)uswest.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: e-bay auction, December 1947 Flying magazine
>
> I already had a issue of this magazine. The airplanes appear to be real.
> There is also no pictures or article about these in the magazine either.
>
> Bryan Wells
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Randy L. Thwing <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 10:24 AM
> Subject: Beech-List: e-bay auction, December 1947 Flying magazine
>
>
>
> >
> > Listers,
> > Did anyone on the list buy this magazine? I downloaded the photo
from
> > e-bay, and resolution is pretty bad. My question: Is this really a
> picture
> > of three vintage Bonanzas, or are they three plastic models sitting on a
> > patio flagstone? The expansion joint in the concrete ramp looks
> > suspiciously wide to me. I'm still analysing, I'm just trying to
> determine
> > if these are true examples of genuine, vintage airplanes and paint
schemes
> > and or some mockup. Whoever has the magazine cover should have a better
> > copy to examine,
> > Regards,
> > Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35, N4546V
> >
> > Original message:
> > Thanks Ron;
> > You know what a sucker I am for that stuff. I've got a bid in for it
and
> > I'll let you see it one day (maybe San Antonio) if I get it!
> > AL
> >
> >
> > >Guys,
> > >
> > > I sas surfing eBay, and came upon a December 1947 issue of FLYING
> Magazine
> > for
> > > sale.
> > >
> > > http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=324875748
> > >
> > > The accompanying photo shows the cover of the issue, with three
Bonanzas
> > on it.
> > >
> > > The image alone is worth keeping just as a record of the color schemes
> > used --
> > > didn't know about the white and blue scheme in 1947.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Alston" <jalsto(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Firewall Shutoff Valve |
Sorry, can't help you with your specific problem. I have just rescued tiny
parts from other small places.
The talk of cutting a hole just to retrieve a part sent chill down my spine.
Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Date: Thursday, May 25, 2000 5:57 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Firewall Shutoff Valve
>
>Thanks for the tip. Sounds like you've tackled this already. I've got one
>of those thingies! Now how do I go about placing the valve back in the
>track without being able to see?
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jon Alston" <jalsto(at)flash.net>
>To:
>Sent: Friday, May 26, 2000 1:31 AM
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: Firewall Shutoff Valve
>
>
>>
>> Oh no!!! Don't cut a hole!!!!
>> Check your local auto parts store for a cheap flexible tool that is about
>18
>> inches long and has a set of teeth at one end and a button at the other.
>> When you press the button the teeth on the other end extend and grasp
>small
>> objects. I got mine for about $3 and it has been a life saver more than
>> once. The also make one that simply has a magnet in place of the teeth.
>> Jon
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)ev1.net>
>> To: Beech List
>> Date: Wednesday, May 24, 2000 7:36 PM
>> Subject: Beech-List: Firewall Shutoff Valve
>>
>>
>> >
>> >This will be a teaser for some. I removed the firewall shutoff cable
>from
>> >the valve for cable replacement. While I was disassembling the cable
>end,
>> >the valve became dislodged and is floating around in the housing. Can
>> >anyone tell me how to resecure it through the 1" hole? I've heard some
>> >stories about folks cutting a 1" X 3" square hole and patching, but I'd
>> >rather not do this. Any help out there? How about you microsurgeons!
>> >Al
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | airborne electronics prop |
I have an airborne electronics auto prop control on my f35 electric prop.
last night it started lowering the rpm when auto was engaged but it would not
recover to the 2300 rpm it would just stay down around 1900 rpm. the manual
adjust works fine. anybody got any ideas or does anyone no how to contact
airborne electronics if there still around. thankyou for any help you can
give guys and gals.
gene smirl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: airborne electronics prop |
Gene,
Airborne Electronics is still around, as far as I know.
That's:
Rit Keiter
Airborne Electronics
2655 N. Fitch Mountain Rd.
Healdsburg, CA 95448
707-542-6053 (I think the area code is to change to 627 next year)
When you use the prop up/down toggle switch, it controls the pitch motor
directly.
When you use the propeller governor, the governor's command signal comes out of
the box and energizes either an up relay or a down relay. The relay closes (say
the "up" relay), and 12V goes to the "up" side of the prop pitch motor. The
relay can pop back open (stopping the motor) in one of two ways:
* the governor has stopped signaling for a pitch change, or
* the propeller ring gear "hi-rpm" limit switch has been tripped.
The first thing (and probably the cheapest) I would look for is a bad hi-rpm
limit switch. If it thinks it is tripped, then the system thinks it is at the
maximum, and will prohibit the system from going any higher. However, you can
use the manual switch to override it. And this sounds exactly like your
situation. (That's why Beech designed it this way -- you can manually chew up
the gears if you aren't careful, but if there is a failure in the governor,
limit switches or relays, you can still control the prop.)
The second thing to look for would be a bad relay. The up/down relays are
hidden in the vertical "hump" that contains the landing gear indicator flag.
They are a nuisance to get to, and the 40-year old wiring on mine was corroded
*inside* the insulation. Took me a day with a voltmeter to finally track it
down.
Good luck,
Ron Davis
MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
>
> I have an airborne electronics auto prop control on my f35 electric prop.
> last night it started lowering the rpm when auto was engaged but it would not
> recover to the 2300 rpm it would just stay down around 1900 rpm. the manual
> adjust works fine. anybody got any ideas or does anyone no how to contact
> airborne electronics if there still around. thankyou for any help you can
> give guys and gals.
>
> gene smirl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy |
Hi guys, Philip Cohen here - N3716N, (1947 35 w/ 1956 E-225/8) So. New
Jersey. Any advice would be helpful. It seems after a few
touch & go's and turning off my engine,it failed to start until eventually I
leaned it full with full throttle.(flooded?) Thereafter, it seems to stall
out below 1100 RPM. (still seemingly smooth running, though) Restart with
same result. I put it in the hanger for the night, it started immediately
the next day, and I repeated the same hot-start procedure the naxt day with
the same results except I was not able to restart it eventually.(ran
slightly rough on left ( lower?) mag this time. I bet if I tried to cold
start it now it would fire right up.
So what to do? The mechanics at my field love the plane, are very
trusted and reasonable but have limited experience, (and time right now), on
early 35s'. I dont feel confident it wouldn't fail me onroute if I attempted
to get it to someone more familiar. Could it be a new hot-start procedure
with clean lower plugs is my answer?(I've not owned this plane in warm
weather yet) Any suggestions?
thanks, Philip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy |
Philip,
This is the classic "hot start" problem for the E-engined Bonanzas (and maybe
the IO-470 series, too).
Shut down, tie it down, gas it back up and/or have a bit of lunch, return and
the darned thing will crank forever without starting. What gives?
This is, depending on who you talk to, either vapor lock or a flooded
carburetor. Those skinny, little unprotected aluminum fuel lines run right
alongside that toasty engine that is pumping out all that heat as it taxis
around on the ramp. As long as the engine is running, the fuel flows along to
the carb and everything is fine.
The usual process to get it going again is easy to explain, but tricky the first
few times you try to do it:
Circuit Breakers: ON
Ignition: BOTH mags
Throttle: Full-in (!)
Mixture: Full-out (!)
fuel selector: left tank (as usual)
wobble pump: don't touch it (!)
"Clear!"
Press the starter, and the engine should start in about 5-6 blades, but only for
about 3 seconds. Then, due to fuel mixture starvation, it will die. So you
have to be quick here:
Push in the mixture to give it more gas, and the engine should keep running.
Quickly adjust the throttle so you don't rev up to 2000 in the parking spot. Do
this a couple of times, and you'll have the procedure down.
- - -
The rough running problem could be a couple of things.
The first thing that comes to mind is the usual fouled plugs. Easy enough to
confirm. If the lower plugs look sootier than usual, then this may be the
culprit. I usually lean mine on the ground until I see the rpms go up a bit.
Seems to cure a lot of 100LL problems. Alcor TCP seems to help, too. 80 octane
is better still. Car gas STC is the best. Just don't forget to enrich after
you are done with your runup.
The second thing *may* be a low pressure condition from your fuel pump. I
imagine you have the fuel pressure gage in the instrument cluster, and it should
read 9-15 lbs during normal operation. Watch it the next time you are out
flying. Does the needle stay dead steady on a single reading (whatever it might
be), or does it seem to vibrate? The "vibrating" condition is usually
indicative of the Thompson TF1900 fuel pump's drive pin getting real thin. Time
for a new one. It is supposed to be inspected every 250 hours, and probably
replaced at that time (the pump's drive pin, not the whole fuel pump).
I can't rule out the possibility of needed carburetor maintenance, but since an
overhaul of the Bendix PS-5C can be around $1,200.00, let's leave that one for
last. Or it may just be an idle adjustment. At this point, I'd probably guess
that it isn't. Seems to have served you well so far, so I wouldn't be so quick
to tear into it.
Ron Davis
1954 E35 Bonanza (w/ E225-8) N3218C
Newport Beach, Calif.
PS: If you don't have an autogas STC right now, you may want to wait and see
what happens with the new 82UL fuel designation. It may not be needed.
PPS: That darned Thompson fuel pump is getting harder and harder to find parts
for. However, it has been said that you can use the shank of a drill bit for a
drive pin. You'll have to cut your own gasket, though.
The Five Spot wrote:
>
>
> Hi guys, Philip Cohen here - N3716N, (1947 35 w/ 1956 E-225/8) So. New
> Jersey. Any advice would be helpful. It seems after a few
> touch & go's and turning off my engine,it failed to start until eventually I
> leaned it full with full throttle.(flooded?) Thereafter, it seems to stall
> out below 1100 RPM. (still seemingly smooth running, though) Restart with
> same result. I put it in the hanger for the night, it started immediately
> the next day, and I repeated the same hot-start procedure the naxt day with
> the same results except I was not able to restart it eventually.(ran
> slightly rough on left ( lower?) mag this time. I bet if I tried to cold
> start it now it would fire right up.
> So what to do? The mechanics at my field love the plane, are very
> trusted and reasonable but have limited experience, (and time right now), on
> early 35s'. I dont feel confident it wouldn't fail me onroute if I attempted
> to get it to someone more familiar. Could it be a new hot-start procedure
> with clean lower plugs is my answer?(I've not owned this plane in warm
> weather yet) Any suggestions?
>
> thanks, Philip
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy |
ron the aviation guys around here seem to look down on the auto gas stc and
say don't do it but you say it is the best would you expand on that please
for all of us new bonanza owners.
Gene Smirl n4211b D4222
mrsmirl47(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Kelly" <Heavy707(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy |
My experience has been the same after parking with mixture full lean. The
carb on my straight model 35 needs to be parked with the mixture in full
rich to prevent the diaphragm from taking a set causing a rich condition. If
you look on the pass side of carb at the bottom there is a plunger that is
depressed when in the full lean position. If your engine dies due to being
too rich. look at the plunger with the engine off and the mixture set to
full rich. If the plunger is stuck it will not be touching the linkage. Try
parking after engine shut down go to full rich and leave it until you fly
next time. Hope it helps for you. It worked for me. I thought I had a stuck
float. Joke was on me this model carb doesn't have a float bowl.
Chuck
Bendix PS-5C
p.s. I have found a way to hot start that works for me after fueling. I
leave the mixture in the rich position and shut down by turning off mags.
(good check for grounds working on mags) then when I go to start up I don't
pump the hand pump until the engine is actually running and only if the
pressure does not pick up on its own. I use the same position for the
throttle as on a normal start. It works great.
Chuck Kelly
Heavy707(at)Home.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy |
Gene,
I think Lew Gage (of ABS Magazine's "Currents" fame) could tell you a lot better
than I can, but he's not computer-savvy or online, so here goes:
First of all, the E165/185/225 engine was originally designed in the middle
1940's at the request of Beechcraft for a horizontally-opposed 150 hp engine.
They designed it using gasoline specifications of the 40's, which was for 80
octane rated leaded gasoline.
Technology marched on, and the primary consumer of gasoline (cars) started
getting higher and higher performance engines. This was usually done by
increasing the compression ratio from 8.5 to 1 to 12 or even 14 to 1. With that
kind of high pressure, there is a definite possibility of detonation, so
gasoline antiknock additives were introduced. "Sinclair puts that nickel in,
puts that little nickel in..." Everybody else uses tetraethyl lead, or "Ethyl"
for short. Hi-octane stuff. Way up into the 90's. Fuel economy was 7 miles to
the gallon, but who cared?
Later, in the late 60's and 70's, the EPA decided that automobiles were BIG
polluters, and that something had to be done to get rid of the carbon monoxides
and stuff. Carmakers got in cahoots with the gasoline makers and developed an
engine that used a catalytic converter to "burn" the pollutants in the exhaust
system before it hits the tailpipe. They used platinum as a catalytic agent,
and because it so expensive, developed a new technology to spread it real thin
on other metal-based granules for a big surface area. One bad thing, though.
The pesky tetraethyl lead would totally contaminate the catalytic converter in
about 2 tankfuls of gas. The lead had to go. Sooo, the gasoline companies
formulated an unleaded gasoline (formerly called "white gas" to use in these new
low-pollution cars.
It was at this point that the actual process of making gasoline for cars and
gasoline for aircraft took a big divergence. It used to be easy for Shell or
Exxon to toss in a few extra ingredients into the mix and *poof!* car gas is now
avaiation gas. No longer. It is now more expensive to make avgas in the tiny
lots that they do -- something like 3-4% of car gas production -- due to the
economies of scale, and to those pesky regulations.
Over the years, car gas sorta shifted up from around 75 octane up to 87-88
octane for regular, and up to as high as 92 octane for premium. (Kinda hard to
tell exactly, because the octane claims didn't use a standardized rating system
until the 60's I think.) Avgas had 80 octane, 100 octane, and even 130-140
octane.
Later, the EPA decided that getting rid of all lead out is a good thing, and
forced *everybody* to get rid of the lead. Thus, they tried making a 100 octane
no-lead, but that could kill an engine in as little as 200 hours. The EPA
backed off (*very* unusual) and let us get away with 100LL. A true compromise
where everyone is disappointed.
Since the 70's engine manufacturers have been putting up with the new fuel
formulations, but those thousands of engines still in service since the 30's are
kinda stuck with the short end of the stick. Sure, during overhaul time you
will get hardened valves, but the rest of the engine is not gonna change much.
Over the past couple of decades, military 130 octane pretty much disappeared,
and 80 octane has been offered less and less. With 82UL coming down the pike,
it will disappear, too.
100LL is okay for the relatively higher compression engines like the IO-550, but
our E-series engine have a much lower compression, and is much happier with a
much lower octane gasoline. You can use 100LL, but it still has something like
4
times the antiknock lead additives in it than 80 octane does. That's why I
recommend TCP, the lead scavenging agent. Add a couple of ounces to each
tankful of 100LL to prevent lead buildup. If you can get 80 octane, then more
power to you. If you can buy 88 octane car gas, then you are saving about 75
cents a gallon over avgas. At 10-12 gallons per hour, this is paying for my
overhaul reserve.
When I travel, I try to buy 80 octane if they have it, and 100LL if they don't.
If I have to use 100LL, I'll put in a couple of ounces of TCP into each
20-gallon fill-up. When I'm at my home base, I'll use my four 5-gallon
jerrycans and refill it with gas from the local Chevron station. My (massive
electrode) plugs have about 250 hrs on 'em, and I have had to scrape lead off of
one of them *once*. One plug, the lower #3, always seems oilier than the
others, but the rest are usually only sooty at most. Performance readings from
my JPI engine analyzer shows that the cylinders run just as well with 80, 100LL
or car gas. (I was fooled last year into thinking that I got about 10 degrees
hotter EGTs out of car gas than 80 octane, but I beleve this to be operator
error now.)
Back to Lew Gage -- he buys gasoline in 5,000 gallon lots, and uses it for his
plane and other stuff. He never had a problem, either.
A note: Car gas with alcohol in it should be avoided at all costs. The engine
will burn it just fine, but it will kill the delivery system -- your fuel cells,
rubber lines, magnesium parts, etc. That may be why local folks don't like car
gas. Their local area uses gasohol for automotive fuel.
Ron Davis
1954 E35 Bonanza "N3218C"
airplane driver ordinaire, cheapskate extraordinaire
MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
>
> ron the aviation guys around here seem to look down on the auto gas stc and
> say don't do it but you say it is the best would you expand on that please
> for all of us new bonanza owners.
>
> Gene Smirl n4211b D4222
> mrsmirl47(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy |
Listers:
I had to replace a fuel bladder in my left wing, not sure it really
needed replacing, only 17 pinhole leaks with a mfg. date of 1947, I would
have stuck with it but I don't like piloting a flying bomb! I purchased a
new bladder (about 1M) from the fuel cell outfit in WI, and while speaking
to them, I asked them about auto fuel. I was cautioned about alchohol, but
the main point was that now that lead is absent as the anti-knock component,
the octane raising additive is toluene, with this chemical also detrimental
to the entire, original fuel system. Just what I was told. I'm glad 80
octane is available at VGT.
Regrards,
Randy L. Thwing, 1948 Straight 35, N4546V, D-1373
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Davis <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Simpson <siaero(at)siaero.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: airborne electronics prop |
If you have a fax number ,i can fax you details out of very early beech manual
that has listings of internals of this governor, details are scetchy, but does
tell you how it works.. I recently fixed one for a friend of mine that has an
A35, and it was not too hard to repair, very mechanical and has 3 valves(
therionic ,,not mechanical) inside.. If you know someone into vintage radio ,it
could be a help,,, Let me know if you need data.
Regards
Rob Simpson
Managing Director
Simpson Aeroelectrics P/L Melbourne Australia
Owns and rebuilding from Scratch 1947 35 S/N D614
MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
> I have an airborne electronics auto prop control on my f35 electric prop.
> last night it started lowering the rpm when auto was engaged but it would not
> recover to the 2300 rpm it would just stay down around 1900 rpm. the manual
> adjust works fine. anybody got any ideas or does anyone no how to contact
> airborne electronics if there still around. thankyou for any help you can
> give guys and gals.
>
> gene smirl
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy |
The list of complaints are somewhat typical of a pressure carb that is
starting to go... Has this bird been run on autogas?.. When you shut down,
do you move the throttle to approx midpoint to take pressure off the
carburetor diaphrams?
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: The Five Spot <fivespot(at)erols.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 11:56 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy
>
> Hi guys, Philip Cohen here - N3716N, (1947 35 w/ 1956 E-225/8) So. New
> Jersey. Any advice would be helpful. It seems after a few
> touch & go's and turning off my engine,it failed to start until eventually
I
> leaned it full with full throttle.(flooded?) Thereafter, it seems to stall
> out below 1100 RPM. (still seemingly smooth running, though) Restart with
> same result. I put it in the hanger for the night, it started immediately
> the next day, and I repeated the same hot-start procedure the naxt day
with
> the same results except I was not able to restart it eventually.(ran
> slightly rough on left ( lower?) mag this time. I bet if I tried to
cold
> start it now it would fire right up.
> So what to do? The mechanics at my field love the plane, are very
> trusted and reasonable but have limited experience, (and time right now),
on
> early 35s'. I dont feel confident it wouldn't fail me onroute if I
attempted
> to get it to someone more familiar. Could it be a new hot-start procedure
> with clean lower plugs is my answer?(I've not owned this plane in warm
> weather yet) Any suggestions?
>
>
> thanks, Philip
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy |
Just want to thank y'all for the quick response to my query. I'm going to
clean plugs this weekend and try some of remedies.(the quick/easy ones 1st).
I'll let everyone know the outcome. Thanks again, Philip.
----- Original Message -----
From: Milton J. <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2000 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy
>
> The list of complaints are somewhat typical of a pressure carb that is
> starting to go... Has this bird been run on autogas?.. When you shut
down,
> do you move the throttle to approx midpoint to take pressure off the
> carburetor diaphrams?
> Milt
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: The Five Spot <fivespot(at)erols.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 11:56 AM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy
>
>
> >
> > Hi guys, Philip Cohen here - N3716N, (1947 35 w/ 1956 E-225/8) So. New
> > Jersey. Any advice would be helpful. It seems after a few
> > touch & go's and turning off my engine,it failed to start until
eventually
> I
> > leaned it full with full throttle.(flooded?) Thereafter, it seems to
stall
> > out below 1100 RPM. (still seemingly smooth running, though) Restart
with
> > same result. I put it in the hanger for the night, it started
immediately
> > the next day, and I repeated the same hot-start procedure the naxt day
> with
> > the same results except I was not able to restart it eventually.(ran
> > slightly rough on left ( lower?) mag this time. I bet if I tried to
> cold
> > start it now it would fire right up.
> > So what to do? The mechanics at my field love the plane, are very
> > trusted and reasonable but have limited experience, (and time right
now),
> on
> > early 35s'. I dont feel confident it wouldn't fail me onroute if I
> attempted
> > to get it to someone more familiar. Could it be a new hot-start
procedure
> > with clean lower plugs is my answer?(I've not owned this plane in warm
> > weather yet) Any suggestions?
> >
> >
> > thanks, Philip
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
Okay gang, I'm looking for a classic, H and up, even the early ones with the
funny straight tails will be considered (and probably preferred). If there
are any deals out there, email me privately.
Thanks
Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | PS5C Carb on e-bay |
Listers:
If anyone is looking for a Bendix PS5C Carb. core, there is one listed
on e-bay, item number 347787365. The only bidder has an e-mail address of
"mrgage", hmm does that sound familier in Bonanza circles?
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PS5C Carb on e-bay |
Thanks Randy!
AL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 9:55 PM
Subject: Beech-List: PS5C Carb on e-bay
>
> Listers:
> If anyone is looking for a Bendix PS5C Carb. core, there is one
listed
> on e-bay, item number 347787365. The only bidder has an e-mail address of
> "mrgage", hmm does that sound familier in Bonanza circles?
> Regards,
> Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: PS5C Carb on e-bay |
I also have a PS-5C core for sale if you're interested (391330-8)
Also I have located a complete (removed airworthy but stored in a dry hangar
several years) electric prop with original wooden blades and a power off
prop strike E185-11 engine core with Hartzell setup.
Also still have the inboard gear doors and Main wing Spars
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 6:39 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: PS5C Carb on e-bay
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aberle Custom Aircraft <airacer(at)redrock.net> |
Does anyone have used Beech wing bolts and nuts? I need to make a Beech
wing nut wrench for a straight 35 and a "B" model. The nuts are different
for the 35 and the "B".
Beech has a limited life on wing bolts, 15 years I think.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanx,
Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Jones <larry_jones(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Nosegear door hinge |
OK, ya'll:
There I was...climbing out over the end of the runway...and I flipped the
landing gear switch to the up position...heard the familiar gear motor start
to whine but stopped before the indicator light came on! Also heard the
sickening sound of a circuit breaker popping! Reset...gear switch down, got a
light,gear switch up, no light, breaker popped again, gear down, land, "what
the heck"! Broken nosegear door hinge on the left aft side. Now, where would
I get one of those???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosegear door hinge |
Shop around for someone that has a nose gear that's a bit crumbled and get a
hinge from them. I know a guy (he's still rebuilding my doors) that'll
probably have some. If you have no luck, his number is 580-234-6583, Dale
LaGrand (and I think he's also a goldsmith).
Al
Broken nosegear door hinge on the left aft side. Now, where would
> I get one of those???
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | parts flying off |
Guys it seems that the glue on my bonanza emblem on the engine cowl about 2
1/2 inches in diameter only held for 45 years any one no where I might
purchase another emblem for a 1955 F35.
gene smirl N4211B D4222 thanks for any help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosegear door hinge |
I have a left aft nose gear door hinge
Dave Walen
910 763-1925
-----Original Message-----
From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Date: Thursday, June 08, 2000 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Nosegear door hinge
>
>Shop around for someone that has a nose gear that's a bit crumbled and get
a
>hinge from them. I know a guy (he's still rebuilding my doors) that'll
>probably have some. If you have no luck, his number is 580-234-6583, Dale
>LaGrand (and I think he's also a goldsmith).
>Al
>
>
>Broken nosegear door hinge on the left aft side. Now, where would
>> I get one of those???
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
----- Original Message -----
From: The Five Spot <fivespot(at)erols.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy
>
> Hi guys, Philip Cohen here - N3716N, (1947 35 w/ 1956 E-225/8) So. New
> Jersey. Thank you all again for your input. It seems that your
suggestions for hot starting are working. I still haven't flown though
because she stalls every few minutes at idle. Another clue though: I can
keep it from stalling with a couple pumps of the wobble pump. (x-tra
throttle not helpful).
The fule pressure at idle(1000RPM), is 10-12 lbs, with no occilation of
the needle (according to the press. gauge on the panel.
Who would like to recommend the next step?
Again, if you can recommend a mechanic near New Jersey/Pennsylvania,
please do. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks. -Philip>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
Philip,
A car that stalls out when you give it the gas (when cold) usually indicates a
too-lean mixture -- especially if the problem goes away once the engine has
warmed up.
An airplane that stalls out unless you give it a couple of extra shots from the
wobble pump sounds like either:
A) inadequate fuel delivery, ie low fuel pump pressure.
B) the same kind of problem as the old cars -- too lean a mixture.
Since the fuel pressure gage is reading 10-12 lbs, I will venture to say that
your fuel pump is working okay. Mine reads around 11 all the time and is
usually rock-stady there during the whole flight. However, these gages aren't
the last word in accuracy, so if all else fails, you may want to tap in an
automotive fuel pressure gage to confirm the pressure reading of this one.
- - -
Old cars had a manual choke you could pull out to get around the cold-stall
problem. (Modern cars have an automatic choke, and most of us have completely
forgotten about this little automotive problem.) Pulling on the choke
enrichened the gas for us by limiting the air. We do in in the Bonanza by
limiting the gas with the mixture knob.
The fuel mixture knob on the early Bonanzas leaves a bit to be desired. I had
mine replaced with a vernier knob some years back and it made a *big* difference
in my leaning accuracy. Others may want to consider this very worthwhile change.
The Bendix PS-5C pressure carburetor has an easily-readable indicator for the
mixture position on the right side of the carb. Pull the right cheek panel off
to see it. The mixture cable connects to a lever. The lever moves a sliding bar
with the legends: OFF--L(ean)--R(ich), and just underneath it is a fixed metal
piece with an arrow on it to indicate the mixture setting. As you push the
mixture knob in, the carb indicator slides forward, and the "R" legend slides
over the arrow. Easy.
As you pull the mixture out, the sliding bar slides forward to "L". If you keep
pulling the mixture out, the sliding bar keeps moving back. Eventually, there
is a built-in ramp that pushes the arrow indicator down. (The arrow indicator
isn't actually a fixed metal piece after all -- its a second lever.) This lever
goes down What isn't quite so easily visible is that there is a vertical piston
plunger that drops down from the carb housing and the piston rests on a lever
that works off the same mixture control. Pulling the mixture knob all the way
out pulls the sliding par all the way back, and the arrow part (which is
actually another lever) rides down a ramp, and the lever goes up, shoving the
piston up into the housing, and cuts off the gas. Pushing forward allows the
arrow/lever to slide back off the ramp and the (spring-loaded) plunger to drop
back down, opening up the fuel to the carb. If the plane hasn't flown much,
this plunger can get sticky with inactivity -- especially if you do NOT push the
mixture knob back to full rich after you shut down the engine.
In your case, this plunger may not be totally gummed up, but why take chances?
You can zap the plunger wirh a good penetrating oil like Mouse Milk, or heck,
in a pinch, I'd even try WD-40.
- - -
Since you now know where the mixture setting is on the carb, you may also want
to look at it to ensure that your mixture setting hasn't slipped, and that
full-in is indeed the rich setting and full-out is the idle-cutoff setting. If
this is mis-adjusted, then it could also be the source of your worries.
- - -
Um, if your engine has the Marvel-Schebler carb, all bets are off.
Good luck,
Ron Davis
The Five Spot wrote:
>
> Hi guys, Philip Cohen here - N3716N, (1947 35 w/ 1956 E-225/8) So. New
> Jersey. Thank you all again for your input. It seems that your
> suggestions for hot starting are working. I still haven't flown though
> because she stalls every few minutes at idle. Another clue though: I can
> keep it from stalling with a couple pumps of the wobble pump. (x-tra
> throttle not helpful).
> The fule pressure at idle(1000RPM), is 10-12 lbs, with no occilation of
> the needle (according to the press. gauge on the panel.)
> Who would like to recommend the next step?
> Again, if you can recommend a mechanic near New Jersey/Pennsylvania,
> please do. Any advice would be helpful.
> Thanks. -Philip
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosegear door hinge |
Call Douglas Aviation, Joe Brewer-- 530-662-2277 - - he has airframe D-4810
with 3500 hrs being dissassembled for parts..
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: Larry Jones <larry_jones(at)usa.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 5:40 PM
Subject: Beech-List: Nosegear door hinge
>
> OK, ya'll:
>
> There I was...climbing out over the end of the runway...and I flipped the
> landing gear switch to the up position...heard the familiar gear motor
start
> to whine but stopped before the indicator light came on! Also heard the
> sickening sound of a circuit breaker popping! Reset...gear switch down,
got a
> light,gear switch up, no light, breaker popped again, gear down, land,
"what
> the heck"! Broken nosegear door hinge on the left aft side. Now, where
would
> I get one of those???
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Avi Elbachri <avi1(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nosegear door hinge |
douglas aviation is no longer in bossiness but I have 1960 bonanza for parts
"Milton J." wrote:
>
> Call Douglas Aviation, Joe Brewer-- 530-662-2277 - - he has airframe D-4810
> with 3500 hrs being dissassembled for parts..
> Milt
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Larry Jones <larry_jones(at)usa.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 5:40 PM
> Subject: Beech-List: Nosegear door hinge
>
> >
> > OK, ya'll:
> >
> > There I was...climbing out over the end of the runway...and I flipped the
> > landing gear switch to the up position...heard the familiar gear motor
> start
> > to whine but stopped before the indicator light came on! Also heard the
> > sickening sound of a circuit breaker popping! Reset...gear switch down,
> got a
> > light,gear switch up, no light, breaker popped again, gear down, land,
> "what
> > the heck"! Broken nosegear door hinge on the left aft side. Now, where
> would
> > I get one of those???
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
try resetting the carburetor needles and idle stops per the mm..
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: The Five Spot <fivespot(at)erols.com>
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: The Five Spot <fivespot(at)erols.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 2:56 PM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy
>
>
> >
> > Hi guys, Philip Cohen here - N3716N, (1947 35 w/ 1956 E-225/8) So. New
> > Jersey. Thank you all again for your input. It seems that your
> suggestions for hot starting are working. I still haven't flown though
> because she stalls every few minutes at idle. Another clue though: I can
> keep it from stalling with a couple pumps of the wobble pump. (x-tra
> throttle not helpful).
> The fule pressure at idle(1000RPM), is 10-12 lbs, with no occilation
of
> the needle (according to the press. gauge on the panel.
> Who would like to recommend the next step?
> Again, if you can recommend a mechanic near New Jersey/Pennsylvania,
> please do. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks. -Philip>
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Kelly" <Heavy707(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
Is it possible your engine driven fuel pump has failed and the fuel pressure
gauge is stuck?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Kelly" <Heavy707(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
What ever you do. Do not adjust carb without the expertise to do it by the
book and then only after all other options have failed. You do not want to
find out in your takeoff roll that you have it adjusted too lean for
sustained takeoff power. I have a manual in the PDF format for this carb if
you need it I will try to e-mail it to you as a zip file.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
Does it smooth out if you manually lean it??
If so might just need some adjustments
Let me know.
I have a field service manual with the adjustments.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Cabin heat knob locking mechanism |
Dear Listers:
I seem to be missing an interior part of the cabin heat knob & cable
assembly in my 1948 straight 35. I have the white plastic knob and the
cable is attached to the heat control mechanism forward of the firewall and
works fine, but I am missing the portion that locks the knob in position. I
have the metal ring which sits in the center of the white plastic knob as
well as the screw and spring which acts as the push button, I just seem to
need some piece which the push button activates that provides the friction
lock. I have the MM and PM but only complete cables are shown without a
breakdown. The piece may be a piece of rod with a long taper. I appreciate
any help on which parts I am missing and where to find them.
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing
Side note to Ron Davis: What Las Vegas area airport will you fly into on
the 16th?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat knob locking mechanism |
Randy,
I'm not sure about the push-pull knob's locking mechanism, but it *may* be a
teensy ball bearing inside the knob. I believe that if you disassemble the
mechanism, you will find that the metal button part of the mechanism -- the part
that you actually push in to unlock the knob -- has a long, skinny flat plate
welded to it (not a rod, but a flat plate). At the end of this plate is a small
hole, where a ball bearing is supposed to rest. They usually fall out unnoticed
as you pull the thing apart in the plane, to become forever part of the belly
debris underneath the floorboards.
Can't remember the size of the bearing. I'm thinking its around 3/32" or 1/8" in
diameter. I guess you could get a new bearing at Grainger's if you knew the
right size. Maybe others here can help you further.
Side note to Randy Thwing: I'll *probably* be arriving in Las Vegas around
5-ish into McCarran, park at Signature, and avail ourselves of their shuttle
service to Mandalay Bay. Fuel prices are pretty high, but their service is
top-notch, and its worth it to keep my wife in the frame of mind that traveling
by tiny death-trap airplanes can be desirable. Leave for home around 3-4 on the
18th. Our family reunion is now kind spread out through M-B, Excalibur, and the
Luxor. My brother is actually showing up with the same girl friend for the
second time in a row (gasp!) Could be serious. Dangerous, even, in Las Vegas,
home of the drive-thru wedding chapel.
Ron Davis
"Randy L. Thwing" wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers:
> I seem to be missing an interior part of the cabin heat knob & cable
> assembly in my 1948 straight 35. I have the white plastic knob and the
> cable is attached to the heat control mechanism forward of the firewall and
> works fine, but I am missing the portion that locks the knob in position. I
> have the metal ring which sits in the center of the white plastic knob as
> well as the screw and spring which acts as the push button, I just seem to
> need some piece which the push button activates that provides the friction
> lock. I have the MM and PM but only complete cables are shown without a
> breakdown. The piece may be a piece of rod with a long taper. I appreciate
> any help on which parts I am missing and where to find them.
> Regards,
> Randy L. Thwing
>
> Side note to Ron Davis: What Las Vegas area airport will you fly into on
> the 16th?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
"Vtail Enthusiasts"
Any listers out near San Jose? I need to look at an airplane out there.
Thanks
AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com |
Hi,
I am located at c-83 Byron, ca. what can I do to help?
Mark
N25R B-35 1950
mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat knob locking mechanism |
Ron:
Finding balls is no problem, I think I'm probably missing the long,
skinny flat plate, or the right button with one attached. You're right
about under the floorboards, during the first annual after I bought the
ship, I removed all the floorboards and removed about two pounds of assorted
fasteners, instruments knobs etc.
If you change your plans and arrive at VGT (North Las Vegas) I would
look forward to the opportunity to say hello.
Regards,
Randy
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Davis <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 1:28 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Cabin heat knob locking mechanism
>
> Randy,
>
> I'm not sure about the push-pull knob's locking mechanism, but it *may* be
a
> teensy ball bearing inside the knob. I believe that if you disassemble
the
> mechanism, you will find that the metal button part of the mechanism --
the part
> that you actually push in to unlock the knob -- has a long, skinny flat
plate
> welded to it (not a rod, but a flat plate). At the end of this plate is a
small
> hole, where a ball bearing is supposed to rest. They usually fall out
unnoticed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
I'm about 45 min from San Jose in Auburn...same offer as Mark..
Mark, are you going to the Father's Day fly-in in Columbia this year? Norma
and I will be flying in on Sunday only, not camping this year. Aren't you
the low time buffed aluminum with green trim?
My B-35 N5155C is the color of masking tape, with brown accents..
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: <MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com>
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2000 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: San Jose
>
> Hi,
> I am located at c-83 Byron, ca. what can I do to help?
> Mark
> N25R B-35 1950
> mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com |
Hi Milt,
Took my wife to Columbia on our first aviation date. She's still sitting
right seat after 25 years. I have just returned to CA. after 15 years in the
East. So couldn't have been me. When I lived in Ca. in the 60's 70's and 80's
I was nuts about Baja. Sent an email to the fellow who wants me or someone to
look at an aircraft and made some suggestions about better ways to pre-buy an
aircraft. In any case if your ever around C83 (Byron) give me a shout and
drop in for a soda at hangar E-18.
Kindest Regards,
Mark Mullahey
mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
925 684 3615
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/13/00 |
Hey Mark,
Thanks for the invite to Byron... will probably take you up on it on one of
these cooler days... Last night it was 100F at 4000ft over AUN, and was
watching my oil temp rising, and pressure dropping.. May have to go back to
straight weight oil..
In the mean-time, AUN is a good fly-out destination for lunch at the flight
kitchen (good food).. give me a call to make sure I'll be there ..
You didn't answer whether you would make it to Columbia, and what ARE your
colors just so I can spot you quicker ??
530-268-6636
Milt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/13/00 |
Hi Milt,
I had the same problem with straight weight oil (100 weight) yesterday.
Went to Palo Alto in the morning and returned about 3:30 with OAT at 95. I
left the cowl flaps open and cruised climbed at 135. Cruised home at 172
speeds with the cowl flaps and vent window open. That kept the needles in the
green but LVL tower noticed the slow cruise and asked if I had a problem. (
some like it hot but not me or my bonanza). The colors on my bonanza are over
all white with blue stripe and black trim. I also have the long third window.
I am flying behind the 225. I can't make fathers day at Columbia due to my
wife's father (79 and a pilot) is in the VA Hospital at Palo Alto. Will spend
Sunday with him.
Kindest Regards,
Mark Mullahey (N25R)
mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
925 684 3615
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 06/13/00 |
Mark,
I hope you mean 50 weight oil! Aeroshell W100 is actually a 50 wt oil, even
with its rather confusing name.
Yeah, when the temps get warm, there are only a few things you can do:
* slow the prop rpm down (2000 instead of 2300 works wonders)
* enrichen the mixture
* open the cowl flaps
* reduce the manifold pressure setting (ie reduce speed)
If its chronic, you may be able to to get a small measure of relief by replacing
the oil with a 15-50 or a 20-50, but as said before, prepare for lower oil
pressures with this tactic.
A reminder: Passengers tend to get even grumpier than the engine when they get
hot. I use the Beech swamp-cooler air conditioner for all its worth, and also
keep extra bottles of water in the plane.
Ron Davis
also a white Bonanza with blue & black trim
MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi Milt,
> I had the same problem with straight weight oil (100 weight) yesterday.
> Went to Palo Alto in the morning and returned about 3:30 with OAT at 95. I
> left the cowl flaps open and cruised climbed at 135. Cruised home at 172
> speeds with the cowl flaps and vent window open. That kept the needles in the
> green but LVL tower noticed the slow cruise and asked if I had a problem. (
> some like it hot but not me or my bonanza). The colors on my bonanza are over
> all white with blue stripe and black trim. I also have the long third window.
> I am flying behind the 225. I can't make fathers day at Columbia due to my
> wife's father (79 and a pilot) is in the VA Hospital at Palo Alto. Will spend
> Sunday with him.
> Kindest Regards,
> Mark Mullahey (N25R)
> mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
> 925 684 3615
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
"Vtail Enthusiasts"
Gang;
Thanks for all your help, the first guy that looked at my project plane
bought it. Guess he knows good workmanship and a good deal ;-)
Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Skymap IIIC GPS - RS232 Interface to the Notepad... |
Hi Listers,
For those of you that have had the pleasure of flying with the King
(formally Skyforce) Skymap IIIC, you may or may not have noticed there is
a nifty "Notepad" feature that allows you to upload roughly 4400
ASCII characters to the IIIC and then page through them. This is handy
for something like an "online" check list or directions to the nearest
airport with a hamburger joint.
In any case, apparently there is a piece of software called Flight
Manager Version 3.00 the you can buy for $229 (gulp) that will allow you
to upload whatever text you may want to this special Notepad on the
IIIC. Realizing that uploading ASCII text to this baby is a pretty
trivial task and being a fair programmer, it hit me that I should spend
a few hours away from building my plane and come up with a piece of
software that might do the same.
So here's my question. Does anyone have the technical spec. on how to
communicate with the IIIC over the RS232 to manipulate the Notepad data
space? There doesn't appear to be a "special" I/O menu for enabling
this type of connectivity. I connected up a terminal to the IIIC and
banged on it with few typical things, but nothing seemed obvious.
Has anyone reverse engineered the Flight Manager code to see what it
sends and receives on the RS232 port? Has anyone even used this Flight
Manager software?
Surfing around on the Bendix/King website, I was really disappointed in
the documentation available on the IIIC there. Very pathetic, actually.
I couldn't locate any information on the Flight Manager software, nor
could I even find any data on available accessories for the IIIC. I did
note that I can order a IIIC online direct from Bendix/King and pay full
List price. What a deal. I wish they had bagged the online ordering
development and focused on something useful - like some documentation...
Sheeze. It appears that the old Skyforce website from the UK has been
completely decommissioned - at least *their* site used to have a bit of
useful information.
Anyway, thanks for any information you might have on the aforementioned
requirement.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
RV-4 Builder
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M T Barksdale" <skyranger(at)hartcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 06/15/00 |
Woweeeee Matt !
I like the Skyforce quite a lot. I liked it in the Hawker Jet so well that
I also put one in my Travel Air.
Sure would like to be advised when you find out how to insert text into the
Note Pad. Always intended to put the check list there... but never found
the "roundtuit" ...
Works great and now the price has doubled since King name is on it.
Regards,
Mac N2011C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Larry Jones <larry_jones(at)usa.net> |
| Subject: | Thompson fuel pump woes |
Hey guys:
It's me again. Got the nosegear door hinge fixed (thanks to Dave Walen)but
now I've got even more serious problems. The fuel pump decided to give it up
on final, which explains the broken handle on the wobble pump. (Samson or
Henry Armstrong would be proud.) Now my question is...where would be a good
place to get my pump overhauled quickly or trade for an overhauled one and
does anyone know of an STC to replace the wobble pump with an electric
pump??????????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Thompson fuel pump woes |
Larry: I have an stc on an aux fuel pump complete with installaion diagrams
and instrucions. The fellow who did it was Chester I Keasling in Carlsbad ,
Ca. The number on the instructions is 714 -438-5213. These are dated 1976 so
don't know if anyone is still there although Airborne electronics hasn't
moved so maybe chester hasn't. Anyway if you want I would be glad to copy and
mail to you if chester is gone.
Gene Smirl D4222 N4211B
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thompson fuel pump woes |
I'm pretty sure that the wobble needs to stay in even though the electric is
placed on. There's a guy in OK that has an STC for a Dukes pump at about
$1300. This includes everything. Not too bad a deal considering the new
Dukes will probably be around $800. Let me know if you need me to find his
name, etc. Be careful on field approvals of fuel systems. If you don't
have intelligent feds, it'll never go through, even though your
design/install is flawless. Unfortunately everyone thinks that they need to
be afraid of or be able to outsmart a lawyer.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Jones" <larry_jones(at)usa.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2000 5:57 PM
Subject: Beech-List: Thompson fuel pump woes
>
> Hey guys:
>
> It's me again. Got the nosegear door hinge fixed (thanks to Dave
Walen)but
> now I've got even more serious problems. The fuel pump decided to give it
up
> on final, which explains the broken handle on the wobble pump. (Samson or
> Henry Armstrong would be proud.) Now my question is...where would be a
good
> place to get my pump overhauled quickly or trade for an overhauled one and
> does anyone know of an STC to replace the wobble pump with an electric
> pump??????????
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
Hi listers. Thanks for your group input to my stalling problem.
Chuck,
Thanks for sending me the carb manual - but I don't know how to view it.
It loads up in Powerpoint, but reads as gibberish. Any clues? Thanks -
Philip.
Ron, Thanks for your advice on checking my mixture, I'll check it tomorrow.
David, Thanks for your offer for the manual, I might just take you up on
that.
If anyone wants to contact me off the list, my e-mail is
fivespot(at)erols.com - Thanks again - Philip. 3716N
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
I just downloaded the carb and fuel pump manuals-thanks.
On another note, what do I need to make my straight 35 with E-225/8
installed legal(paperwork-wise)? My operator's manual(newish) does not seem
to apply, although a 337 for the Hartzell prop is included. Do I need 337
paperwork for the engine? ? My mechanic told me I should be concerned. Any
advice is appreciated. Thanks, Philip 3716N
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
The E225-8 is listed as an approved engine on the type certificate data
sheet albeit with an asterisk indicating that it was added by someone other
than the manufacturer originally. I take the position that the addition of
this engine is not a major alteration since it is listed on the TCDS and
therefore requires only a logbook entry and appropriate amendments to the
flight manual. These can be obtained from a later model aircraft manual
which had the engine originally installed.
I worked on a C35 that had an old 337 stating that the conversion was done
"in accordance with Mr. C.L. Johnston's, Chief, Aircraft Engineering
Division, FW-235, letter dated September 16, 1954. Subject : Installation
of CMC-E-225-8 engine in Beech 35 series airplanes. This installation was
made using all of the original E-185 components (para. 1 under C-35 & D-35
Mr. Johnston's letter). Instrument markings, etc., c/w/ as noted in
"Airplane Flight Manual Supplement" of Mr. Johnston's letter."
This is the exact wording on the back of the 337 ( done in 1957 )and I have
not been able to find a copy of that letter or anyone familiar with it.
Since the engine is now shown on the data sheet as approved I again do not
feel that a 337 is required.
You will need to remark the MAP and Tach gauges also and perhaps adjust
takeoff RPM on the prop however.
Any comments guys???
Dave Walen
-----Original Message-----
From: The Five Spot <fivespot(at)erols.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2
>
>I just downloaded the carb and fuel pump manuals-thanks.
>On another note, what do I need to make my straight 35 with E-225/8
>installed legal(paperwork-wise)? My operator's manual(newish) does not
seem
>to apply, although a 337 for the Hartzell prop is included. Do I need 337
>paperwork for the engine? ? My mechanic told me I should be concerned. Any
>advice is appreciated. Thanks, Philip 3716N
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
Philip,
I believe that Beech updated the Type Certificate on the earlier Bonanzas to
allow the Continental E225-8 engine.
You should be able to confirm this by checking the Type Certificates listed on
the FAA web page.
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library\rgMakeModel.nsf/CurrentModelsbyProductType/6737C79BF68435698525673F00736B30?OpenDocument
TCDS Number: A-777
... and it is there! Amendment item 115 in the Type Certificate Data Sheet.
Soooo, all you need is a logbook entry of the engine upgrade, and the usual
weight and balance update.
Others may state that this is a "major alteration" and require a form 337 to
indicate the engine change. I halfheartedly agree. Let your favorite A&P be
your guide here.
Ron Davis
The Five Spot wrote:
>
>
> I just downloaded the carb and fuel pump manuals-thanks.
> On another note, what do I need to make my straight 35 with E-225/8
> installed legal(paperwork-wise)? My operator's manual(newish) does not seem
> to apply, although a 337 for the Hartzell prop is included. Do I need 337
> paperwork for the engine? ? My mechanic told me I should be concerned. Any
> advice is appreciated. Thanks, Philip 3716N
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
Hi,
Is the carb manual on the net somewhere if so please send the address so
I might download this information
thanks in advance
Mark Mullahey
B-35 N25R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHebestrei(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Engine rebuild E-225 |
This is my first time asking for advise, and i am a fairly new owner of a
sweet flying D-35 N3413B dased dear valley phoenix,DVT. my question is does
anyone know of a REPUTABLY QUALITY SHOP to do 1st quality overhauls on these
semi antiques. I have owned 13B only since dec along with my partner and we
are entertaing the thaught of either a 1ST class rebuild, or a newer model
the engine time is 1240 hrs smoh and is very strong but hrs dictate it wont
be long as we fly 400hrs + per year any help in this matter would be
appreciated sincerly kevin,ralph.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Avi Elbachri <avi1(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine rebuild E-225 |
call "BDS" go for IO470N- 260HP
KHebestrei(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
> This is my first time asking for advise, and i am a fairly new owner of a
> sweet flying D-35 N3413B dased dear valley phoenix,DVT. my question is does
> anyone know of a REPUTABLY QUALITY SHOP to do 1st quality overhauls on these
> semi antiques. I have owned 13B only since dec along with my partner and we
> are entertaing the thaught of either a 1ST class rebuild, or a newer model
> the engine time is 1240 hrs smoh and is very strong but hrs dictate it wont
> be long as we fly 400hrs + per year any help in this matter would be
> appreciated sincerly kevin,ralph.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHebestrei(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine rebuild E-225 |
who is bds wouldent this engine u suggest be a little hot for an airframe
that alyways sees indicated airspeeds in the yellowor at least in the top of
green arc or are there other mods also anyway ill call please supply a phone
# THANKS KEVIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine rebuild E-225 |
It appears Hammock Aviation Services has a new WEB site listing the IO470
STC conversion for the A35 through G35 Bonanza www.hammockaviation.com
Otherwise, there are a handful of shops that still have the proper tooling
to perform a overhaul on the E series engines. The "E" series is a excellent
engine, but the limit of some parts availability will continue to be a
issue. No longer are crankshafts in production etc.
----- Original Message -----
From: Avi Elbachri <avi1(at)ix.netcom.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Engine rebuild E-225
>
> call "BDS" go for IO470N- 260HP
>
> KHebestrei(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > This is my first time asking for advise, and i am a fairly new owner of
a
> > sweet flying D-35 N3413B dased dear valley phoenix,DVT. my question is
does
> > anyone know of a REPUTABLY QUALITY SHOP to do 1st quality overhauls on
these
> > semi antiques. I have owned 13B only since dec along with my partner and
we
> > are entertaing the thaught of either a 1ST class rebuild, or a newer
model
> > the engine time is 1240 hrs smoh and is very strong but hrs dictate it
wont
> > be long as we fly 400hrs + per year any help in this matter would be
> > appreciated sincerly kevin,ralph.
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Avi Elbachri <avi1(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine rebuild E-225 |
Call Beryl D'shannon 800-328-4629
you can cruise on low rpm and save fuel
it is a batter engine.
check in to it
KHebestrei(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
> who is bds wouldent this engine u suggest be a little hot for an airframe
> that alyways sees indicated airspeeds in the yellowor at least in the top of
> green arc or are there other mods also anyway ill call please supply a phone
> # THANKS KEVIN
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine rebuild E-225 |
Kevin,
Well, There are a couple of places around the Los Angeles area that I might
suggest.
Three years ago, my plane (1954 E35) had bad compression in 5/6 cylinders, and
my mechanic (Lawson Barber, Madera, CA) took it to Ly-Con Aircraft Engine
Rebuilders of Visalia, CA.
I was originally just going to get all 6 cylinders replaced, but later got
talked into a full overhaul. I don't have all my paperwork with me, but I
believe I bought the cylinders with 4-ring pistons from A.E.R.O. out of Illinois
for something line $890 each, and the bill from Ly-Con was something like
$11,000. Accessories were done separately. $1,200 for the PS-5C carb, unknown
amounts for the mags, starter, generator, fuel pump and whatnot.
It is somewhere around 250-300 hours now, and it still runs great. I am *just*
now starting to see a bit of oil puddling on the keel under the accessories.
Oil consumption is about 1 qt every 10 hours. With the Sunrise spin-on oil
filter adapter, the oil is still as clean as ever at the 50-hr oil change. Oil
analysis readings are nominal.
All in all, the invoice total was hard to take, but I must say that I have NO
regrets. Lawson helped out a lot by letting me buy a JPI engine analyzer and he
put it in at no labor charge as the engine was already out.
The JPI is now a must-have item in my book, and the plane is soooo reliable.
I'd do it again in a heartbeat.
- - -
The other place in Los Angeles is Phoenix Engine Rebuilders, the one that
advertises in ABS Magazine. I have no direct dealings with them, and I believe
a past article in ABS about 4-5 years ago bad-mouthed them (but didn't mention
their name). But they are worth putting on your list of places to check out.
- - -
If you want to upgrade powerplants, then you have several options.
You can get the STC from Oregon Aero to put IO470 cylinders on the E225 engine
case for an upgrade to 260 Hp.
You can just put an IO470 engine in there (with the STC). There are 2 or 3 guys
that are doing this. I think Oregon Aero is, Beryl D'Shannon is, and Gary
Hammock of Texas is. Possibly others.
I suppose you could even go for the IO520, but that is a lot of engine for the
early model Bonanza, and the fuel consumption at their higher speeds sure does
reduce the range unless you have tip tanks.
If you and your partner are flying upwards of 400 hrs/year, then you may want to
consider simply buying a second runout engine, have it rebuilt where there are
no time constraints (ie less expensive), and swap engines. Doing this every 3-4
years so it makes sense to keep a second engine.
- - -
I would probably try to avoid upgrading to a newer model Bonanza as long as I
didn't have to.
Sure, newer is always nicer, but the acquisition cost will always be higher, and
the performance, though better, can't be justified in my eyes. S35 Bonanzas are
well over twice the price of the E-engined Bonanzas. They certainly don't go
twice as fast.
If you can get along fine with the performance of the C35 Bonanza with the E225
engine, and the payload and weight & balance suit your needs, then there is no
need to spend a ton of money on another model that will probably require even
more money to buy, refurbish and operate over your C35. Of course, I've never
heard of anyone complaining about getting a V35, but they will cost more to run.
Good luck,
Ron Davis
KHebestrei(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
>
> This is my first time asking for advise, and i am a fairly new owner of a
> sweet flying D-35 N3413B dased dear valley phoenix,DVT. my question is does
> anyone know of a REPUTABLY QUALITY SHOP to do 1st quality overhauls on these
> semi antiques. I have owned 13B only since dec along with my partner and we
> are entertaing the thaught of either a 1ST class rebuild, or a newer model
> the engine time is 1240 hrs smoh and is very strong but hrs dictate it wont
> be long as we fly 400hrs + per year any help in this matter would be
> appreciated sincerly kevin,ralph.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2 |
Mark,
You can get the carb and Thompson fuel pump manuals from the Classic
Bonana website at www.aspenleaf.com/bonanza/ Yuo have to have Adobe
Acrobat which you can download from the site also. Good luck, and share your
story with us as you go. -Philip 3716N '47 straight 35
----- Original Message -----
From: <MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy,round 2
>
> Hi,
> Is the carb manual on the net somewhere if so please send the address
so
> I might download this information
> thanks in advance
> Mark Mullahey
> B-35 N25R
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:E-225 install paperwk |
Thank for info relating to my "approved" E-225-8 install. Can someone give
me the source of the appropriate pages to update my manual and new tach and
MP settings?
Also, I've attached warnings of limitations from a fellow Bonz. owner
related to same. Are these true? It seems to me I read that the only the
orig 185 HP had a 1 minute limit on full throttle. and what about his
reference to the wobble?
Thanks!
Attachment:
"Attached is the cruise power chart for the E-225 engine. I must caution
you, everything I can find on the straight 35 Bonanza indicates,
regardless of engine, takeoff power should be limited to 185 horse power,
for 1 minute. Maximum cruise power is 165 horse power. I found a 185 HP
power chart, you are welcome to it along with other information I put
together on your plane.
E-225 engine for takeoff, 2300 RPM @ 26.5 in. Hg M.P. , 185 HP 1 minute
limitation.
All other operations, 2050 RPM @ 27.5 in. Hg M.P. ,165 HP maximum.
Your engine is not certified to takeoff power at 225 HP without the later
model wobble pump. Please be careful."
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:E-225 install paperwk |
Maybe the cure is to add the electric boost/auxiliary fuel pump ?
----- Original Message -----
From: The Five Spot <fivespot(at)erols.com>
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:E-225 install paperwk
>
> Thank for info relating to my "approved" E-225-8 install. Can someone
give
> me the source of the appropriate pages to update my manual and new tach
and
> MP settings?
> Also, I've attached warnings of limitations from a fellow Bonz. owner
> related to same. Are these true? It seems to me I read that the only the
> orig 185 HP had a 1 minute limit on full throttle. and what about his
> reference to the wobble?
> Thanks!
> Attachment:
> "Attached is the cruise power chart for the E-225 engine. I must caution
> you, everything I can find on the straight 35 Bonanza indicates,
> regardless of engine, takeoff power should be limited to 185 horse power,
> for 1 minute. Maximum cruise power is 165 horse power. I found a 185 HP
> power chart, you are welcome to it along with other information I put
> together on your plane.
>
> E-225 engine for takeoff, 2300 RPM @ 26.5 in. Hg M.P. , 185 HP 1 minute
> limitation.
> All other operations, 2050 RPM @ 27.5 in. Hg M.P. ,165 HP maximum.
>
> Your engine is not certified to takeoff power at 225 HP without the later
> model wobble pump. Please be careful."
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine rebuild E-225 |
Kevin;
You need to sit and learn a bit about Bonanzas before posting your next
message. The list is privately funded and all the bandwidth is precious.
Thanks
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: <KHebestrei(at)Aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Engine rebuild E-225
> who is bds wouldent this engine u suggest be a little hot for an airframe
> that alyways sees indicated airspeeds in the yellowor at least in the top
of
> green arc or are there other mods also anyway ill call please supply a
phone
> # THANKS KEVIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine rebuild E-225 |
Expect about 30K for this conversion.
----- Original Message -----
From: "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 8:35 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Engine rebuild E-225
>
> It appears Hammock Aviation Services has a new WEB site listing the IO470
> STC conversion for the A35 through G35 Bonanza www.hammockaviation.com
>
> Otherwise, there are a handful of shops that still have the proper tooling
> to perform a overhaul on the E series engines. The "E" series is a
excellent
> engine, but the limit of some parts availability will continue to be a
> issue. No longer are crankshafts in production etc.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Avi Elbachri <avi1(at)ix.netcom.com>
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 10:10 PM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List: Engine rebuild E-225
>
>
> >
> > call "BDS" go for IO470N- 260HP
> >
> > KHebestrei(at)Aol.com wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > This is my first time asking for advise, and i am a fairly new owner
of
> a
> > > sweet flying D-35 N3413B dased dear valley phoenix,DVT. my question is
> does
> > > anyone know of a REPUTABLY QUALITY SHOP to do 1st quality overhauls on
> these
> > > semi antiques. I have owned 13B only since dec along with my partner
and
> we
> > > are entertaing the thaught of either a 1ST class rebuild, or a newer
> model
> > > the engine time is 1240 hrs smoh and is very strong but hrs dictate it
> wont
> > > be long as we fly 400hrs + per year any help in this matter would be
> > > appreciated sincerly kevin,ralph.
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine rebuild E-225 |
A decent overhaul that may include additional items such as baffling
replacement and sundry of other items including prop overhaul. Wouldn't this
approach $20K+ on a "E" series engine ?
----- Original Message -----
From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Engine rebuild E-225
>
> Expect about 30K for this conversion.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine rebuild E-225 |
Sure would! Best thing, in my opinion, is ridding yourself of the prop
problems.
----- Original Message -----
From: "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 5:57 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Engine rebuild E-225
>
>
> A decent overhaul that may include additional items such as baffling
> replacement and sundry of other items including prop overhaul. Wouldn't
this
> approach $20K+ on a "E" series engine ?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)ev1.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 2:19 PM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List: Engine rebuild E-225
>
>
> >
> > Expect about 30K for this conversion.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHebestrei(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engine rebuild E-225 |
AL how would u suggest i learn do u have a better way. Im sorry to take your
precious time .Others have gone OUT OF THERE WAY TO BE HELPFULL. AND I THANK
ALL OF U THANKS, KEVIN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fish <roblfish(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engine rebuild E-225 |
Hey Kevin, Please don't take Al's comment personally, he's just very concerned
as to superfluous dialogue on these pages. More tact possibly may be
undertaken but he gets a point across, right? OK, I'll shut up.
I'm learning just from being present on this line, but I would like to know
anyone's input as to more Bonz info. I've joined ABS, that's a wonderful start
so far... and shall continue to follow y'alls lead. Thanks everyone, for being
there.
A J DeMarzo wrote:
>
> Kevin;
> You need to sit and learn a bit about Bonanzas before posting your next
> message. The list is privately funded and all the bandwidth is precious.
> Thanks
> Al
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <KHebestrei(at)Aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 8:11 AM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List: Engine rebuild E-225
>
> > who is bds wouldent this engine u suggest be a little hot for an airframe
> > that alyways sees indicated airspeeds in the yellowor at least in the top
> of
> > green arc or are there other mods also anyway ill call please supply a
> phone
> > # THANKS KEVIN
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Dortch" <smallfish(at)enid.com> |
| Subject: | Vortex Generators |
Dear Listers,
I sent an Email to Micro Vortex Generators and they told me the following
information:
They have VGs for all of the Beech 35 series including the early straight
35s.
The VGs take 5-7 hours to attach and cost $1450 (15% discount for ABS
members.That pays for the membership!)
They are applied to the top of the wing and the bottom of the tail.
While it does not increase Gross Weight or open up the CG as it does on some
planes, it does improve lateral Stability, and Reduce Vs by 6mph and Vso by
4 mph. There is no change in Cruise speed.
If someone on the list has VGs I would be interested in what they think. Has
it reduced takeoff roll or landing roll? How about climbout?
I would really be excited if it increased the CG envelope on the early 35s.
Blue Skies
Steve Dortch
Straight 35 4512V
Cessna 150 5744E (still for sale)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators |
Steven,
I haven't put on vortex generators, and only know of one who has.
He (a Baron owner) loves it. Says it makes the plane soooo much more docile at
lower airpseeds. Hasn't noticed any bad effects at cruise.
They took about a day to put the little "razor blades" on, following a very
detailed template and measurements. I think they were put on with an epoxy glue
(!)
The only complaint is that it sure can cut up your hands as you wash and wax the
plane -- All those little metal tabs sticking up like a cheese grater waiting to
catch unwary fingers.
- - -
I've been thinking (DANGER! --- DANGER! --- DANGER!) about "lift enhancing
devices."
There was an article in EAA's Sport Aviation a long time ago about Turbulator
Tape -- a pressure sensitive adhesive backed tape that was cut in a sawtooth
fashion. You stick it on to the underside of the wing, at the highest pressure
zone (takes some hi-tech work to find this *exact* spot), and it is supposed to
create a turbulent boundary layer that actually improves performance by reducing
skin friction drag, I think. I remember seeing the stuff sold by Aircraft
Spruce some 3-4 years ago, but now I can't find it.
Then, a year or two ago, there was another article in Sport Aviation about some
stuff called Dimple Tape. The tape again, is a pressure sensitive adhesive tape
that is about 1 - 1-1/2" wide, and has 4 rows of perforations (holes) in it.
You are supposed to apply this to the UPPER side of the wing, again at the
highest pressure zone (usually the thickest part of the camber of the wing), and
it is supposed to create a turbulent boundary layer that again, improves
performance by reducing some kind of drag.
http://www.dimpletape.com/
Just this weekend, in Sunday's Los Angeles Times, in the LA Times Magazine, is
a
cover story about Paul Moller's SkyCar. The article mentions a problem he had
about the engine, and it was ultimately solved by affixing sandpaper (!) to the
leading edge of the ducted fan blades to energize the boundary layer.
http://www.moller.com/
Hmmm.
So, here is some information that seems to be confirmed that creating some kind
of turbulence -- not much, but a little -- at just the right spot on a wing or
even a propeller, can improve performance by "detaching" the laminar flow of air
from the skin of the wing, but allowing the airflow to continue to follow the
curve of the wing.
Here's my idea: Instead of using expensive turbulator tape, or dimple tape, I
suppose I can use sough, sandpapery wing walk compound as a "painted surface,"
which I am permitted to do as owner-performed maintenance, and paint the tops of
the forward wing spar of the Bonanza's wing (the thickest part of the wing's
camber) with the stuff. This ought to be just as good as sandpaper for being a
rough, turbulence-inducing material, and legal for me to do. Low speed handling
may be improved, but since it flies fine at 65, I don't see the benefit in
this. But the wild claims of 2-3 kts in speed is enough for a speed demon to
think about it, especially since it doesn't cost a ton of dough to it. In fact,
it would cost practically nothing (!)
DANGER!
However, I am mindful of the past articles in ABS magazine about frost and ice
(a rough, sandpapery surface) killing lift to the point of possible loss of
control of the aircraft. I guess placement is everything.
Anyone have a model airplane they want to use to confirm this, or am I alone to
test my crackpot idea on my own plane?
- - -
Oops. Didn't really mean to stry from Steve's original question so much.
Yes, vortex generators do seem to be all they are cracked up to be.
$1,450 is rather expensive, but if you fly often at the lower end of the
performance envelope, and need this improvement, then you need this improvement.
Ron Davis
1954 E35 Bonanza
Steven Dortch wrote:
>
>
> Dear Listers,
> I sent an Email to Micro Vortex Generators and they told me the following
> information:
>
> They have VGs for all of the Beech 35 series including the early straight
> 35s.
> The VGs take 5-7 hours to attach and cost $1450 (15% discount for ABS
> members.That pays for the membership!)
> They are applied to the top of the wing and the bottom of the tail.
>
> While it does not increase Gross Weight or open up the CG as it does on some
> planes, it does improve lateral Stability, and Reduce Vs by 6mph and Vso by
> 4 mph. There is no change in Cruise speed.
>
> If someone on the list has VGs I would be interested in what they think. Has
> it reduced takeoff roll or landing roll? How about climbout?
> I would really be excited if it increased the CG envelope on the early 35s.
>
> Blue Skies
> Steve Dortch
> Straight 35 4512V
> Cessna 150 5744E (still for sale)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators |
Hi Ron and thanks,
I received the package today with your note. If I can ever be of help I
owe you one. I also purchased an E-model this week. I am picking it up on
Friday so now I have my B-model for sale. The e is loaded out with avionics
the one thing the b lacked. I now have dual flip,flops, HSI, B-7 Autopilot
and lots of other goodies. If you know of any one in the market for a clean b
send them my way. Thanks again for the help.
Kindest Regards,
Mark Mullahey
mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators |
Mark,
Glad I could help. The PS-5C carb is pretty reliable, but its always handy to
have the manuals. I'm trying to get all the books I can -- I figure that in
10-12 years, its gonna be a lot harder to find folks that even know what they
are looking at, much less how to fix it. Gotta get those manuals now while they
are still available. (Oops. I may be shooting myself in the foot, telling all
my potential book competitiors here.)
Sounds like the E35 is LOADED! I'm jealous. Actually, I'm mildly surprised you
didn't simply upgrade the B35. I'm the kind of guy that sticks with the devil
you know, rather than go with the devil you don't.
Let me know the particulars of your B for sale, and I'll spread the word.
Good luck with your E35,
Ron Davis
MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi Ron and thanks,
> I received the package today with your note. If I can ever be of help I
> owe you one. I also purchased an E-model this week. I am picking it up on
> Friday so now I have my B-model for sale. The e is loaded out with avionics
> the one thing the b lacked. I now have dual flip,flops, HSI, B-7 Autopilot
> and lots of other goodies. If you know of any one in the market for a clean b
> send them my way. Thanks again for the help.
>
> Kindest Regards,
> Mark Mullahey
> mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators |
Hi Ron,
I could not have upgraded my b to the condition of my new e for any where
near what I paid for it. That's why I dare fate and dance with a new devil.
My b, which I just returned from flying has a complete web site located at
http://members.xoom.com/av8r
There are 14 pictures and complete spec's. Don't put the www in the address
and you may have to try and access it more then once to get it to open. It's
a free site and you know what you get for free. So if you get a 404 error
just try again.
Again thanks for the carb manual.
Best Regards,
Mark Mullahey
mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com |
I have just purchased a used WX8 stormscope which I want to put in my F35.
Does anyone have an installation manual and or a wiring diagram I could use.
Or any tips on where to install antennae.
Thanks
Gene Smirl N4211B D4222
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Vortex Generators |
Saw the B model on the site yesterday. Sure is a nice lookin' bird! And
you're offering it at a great price. Good Luck
AL
----- Original Message -----
From: <MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2000 9:38 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Vortex Generators
>
> Hi Ron,
> I could not have upgraded my b to the condition of my new e for any
where
> near what I paid for it. That's why I dare fate and dance with a new
devil.
> My b, which I just returned from flying has a complete web site located at
>
> http://members.xoom.com/av8r
>
> There are 14 pictures and complete spec's. Don't put the www in the
address
> and you may have to try and access it more then once to get it to open.
It's
> a free site and you know what you get for free. So if you get a 404 error
> just try again.
>
> Again thanks for the carb manual.
>
> Best Regards,
> Mark Mullahey
> mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "carmine pecoraro" <aeroauto(at)hotmail.com> |
My WX8 antenna is located on the belly under the baggage door.
Cheers Carmine Pecoraro
>From: MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com
>Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
>To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Beech-List: Stormscope
>Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2000 06:28:43 EDT
>
>
>I have just purchased a used WX8 stormscope which I want to put in my F35.
>Does anyone have an installation manual and or a wiring diagram I could
>use.
>Or any tips on where to install antennae.
>
>Thanks
>Gene Smirl N4211B D4222
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ohlinger" <ohlinger(at)neo.rr.com> |
Hi, may name is Mark Ohlinger and am new to the Beechcraft line of
aircraft. I currently own and fly a 1946 Bellanca Cruisair. I am in the
process of purchasing a 1947 project plane and have a question as it relates
to the cylinders. The plane that I am purchasing has the engine out and it
is being overhauled by an A&P in the local area. The A&P seems to know the
E-series engine fairly well, as he has overhauled several that came out of
Navions with great success.
The cylinders on the engine appear to be in good shape, and are low time and
are .015" over, with a 3 ring piston. I have done some reading and it seems
that I should consider going to a 4 ring piston. I am told that the
cylinders that I have approx. .006" choke in them, and when you go to the 4
ring piston, you should have a maximum of either .002" or .003" choke. (I
can not remember which is the proper max. choke value).
There is some concerns on the A&P's part about if the choke can be taken out
of the cylinders since they are already at .015" over.
Anyone out there have experience with this?
What does a 4-ring piston offer over a 3-ring? Is it less oil burn?
anything else?
Thanks for your help
Mark Ohlinger AIA
Akron, Ohio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: E-185 cylinders |
Hi Mark,
Unfortunately, I am not a mechanic and do not have this type of
background. My goals were all directed towards the pilot side of aviation. I
was a cfii. I have loved bonanza's most of my flying career and presently own
two. I would suggest you direct your questions to Ron Davis as he is most
knowledgeable in this area. I have 4 ring pistons in one of my bonanza's and
the oil consumption seems to be in the area of 1 every 5 to 6 hours. The
engine leaks oil somewhere as every e-series engine seems to. I have heard
about people whom have stopped these leaks but never observed one in the
flesh. If you purchase an e series engine keep a rag handy. Like I said
earlier, I just fly them. Do minor repairs when within my skill level. I know
I have not been much help but there are folks in the newsgroup that will be
able to answer your question.
May all your turns be standard rate.
Kindest Regards,
Mark Mullahey
mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
N3246C / N25R
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Avi Elbachri <avi1(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: E-185 cylinders |
call the expert on E225 Lewis C. Gage at 775.826.7184
ohlinger wrote:
>
> Hi, may name is Mark Ohlinger and am new to the Beechcraft line of
> aircraft. I currently own and fly a 1946 Bellanca Cruisair. I am in the
> process of purchasing a 1947 project plane and have a question as it relates
> to the cylinders. The plane that I am purchasing has the engine out and it
> is being overhauled by an A&P in the local area. The A&P seems to know the
> E-series engine fairly well, as he has overhauled several that came out of
> Navions with great success.
> The cylinders on the engine appear to be in good shape, and are low time and
> are .015" over, with a 3 ring piston. I have done some reading and it seems
> that I should consider going to a 4 ring piston. I am told that the
> cylinders that I have approx. .006" choke in them, and when you go to the 4
> ring piston, you should have a maximum of either .002" or .003" choke. (I
> can not remember which is the proper max. choke value).
> There is some concerns on the A&P's part about if the choke can be taken out
> of the cylinders since they are already at .015" over.
> Anyone out there have experience with this?
> What does a 4-ring piston offer over a 3-ring? Is it less oil burn?
> anything else?
> Thanks for your help
> Mark Ohlinger AIA
> Akron, Ohio
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: E-185 cylinders |
Mark,
I don't recall hearing that the 4-ring piston had a different choke than the
3-ring piston, but then again, I'm rather clueless when it comes to the
clearances and stuff inside the E-series engine.
I had originally merely purchased the 4-ring pistons from A.E.R.O. a few years
back and it was just gonna be a top overhaul -- we'll skip the long story, but
it got a full overhaul by Ly-Con Engine rebuilders in Visalia, Calif., and I
must say that for the first 200 hours it didn't leak oil hardly at all. The 4th
ring on the piston is supposed to be a real oil-wiping ring, and now I believe
it.
I change the oil every 50 hours (Lew Gage's spin-on oil filter adapter STC), and
I have to add one, maybe two quarts of oil to get there along the way. The keel
under the accessory case will have a small puddle (1/3 - 2/3 cup?) on it from
time to time, but this is normal.
Good luck,
Ron Davis
ohlinger wrote:
>
>
> Hi, may name is Mark Ohlinger and am new to the Beechcraft line of
> aircraft. I currently own and fly a 1946 Bellanca Cruisair. I am in the
> process of purchasing a 1947 project plane and have a question as it relates
> to the cylinders. The plane that I am purchasing has the engine out and it
> is being overhauled by an A&P in the local area. The A&P seems to know the
> E-series engine fairly well, as he has overhauled several that came out of
> Navions with great success.
> The cylinders on the engine appear to be in good shape, and are low time and
> are .015" over, with a 3 ring piston. I have done some reading and it seems
> that I should consider going to a 4 ring piston. I am told that the
> cylinders that I have approx. .006" choke in them, and when you go to the 4
> ring piston, you should have a maximum of either .002" or .003" choke. (I
> can not remember which is the proper max. choke value).
> There is some concerns on the A&P's part about if the choke can be taken out
> of the cylinders since they are already at .015" over.
> Anyone out there have experience with this?
> What does a 4-ring piston offer over a 3-ring? Is it less oil burn?
> anything else?
> Thanks for your help
> Mark Ohlinger AIA
> Akron, Ohio
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Another convert ... |
To the Beech-Listers,
I finally got to take Robert Fish for a ride in a Bonanza last Saturday.
We met around 10:00am, toured John Wayne (SNA) airport grounds from the inside
for a while, I went over the Bonanza, and we ended up launching around 11:45
for the old Castle Air Force Base, now Atwater Airport (MER). The trip is about
275 miles, and we did it in just about 2 hours, startup to shutdown. A good
example of the Bonanza's speed and range capability.
Bob is currently a student pilot, being recently bitten by the bug now that he
has all the kids out of the house and has time for a nice, time-consuming,
expensive hobby. He is currently using the FBO's 1999 Cessna 172R for training,
and was wondering if he should really make the jump from a 172 directly into a
Bonanza. I said that sure, its *very* possible. I went directly from the
flight school's Piper Cherokee into the Bonanza, and after the 10 hrs of
insurance company-mandated dual, I was ready to go it alone. (Actually, I
didn't feel comfortable in the Bonanza until about 30 hours, but that's probably
just me). I think he's got folks up in Oregon that he would like to see more
often, and I remarked that I flew from LA to Seattle (with a single stop in
Redding, Calif.) in about 9 hours. I think his eyes lit up then. His wife
seems to be like mine, not really trusting anything smaller than a 737, but will
probably warm up to it once she realizes that its just a couple of hours flight
to visit family.
Since this was mainly a test of my newly reinstalled Tactair autopilot, it was
rather embarassing to turn it off and show him just how poor a pilot I really
am, but he was a great passenger and didn't say a thing. Once out of the busy
LA basin, Bob took the controls for about 45 minutes and remarked on the easy
feel of the controls compared to the Cessna. Quieter, too. Of course, as
fellow Bonanza flyers, we all know that already :-)
Went to the Atwater (outdoor) air museum that has a B-17, B-24, B-25, B-29,
B-36(!), B-52 and an SR-71 (among others). Quite a place. If you haven't been
there, I highly recommend it. A short walk through the indoor museum, and a
sandwich at the museum cafe.
Back in the plane, and back home to John Wayne in another 2 hours. One slight
mechanical problem showed up -- the darned prop pitch change motor with only
36.7 hours on it, stopped working. Prop was "fixed" at about 2000 rpm, so climb
was a little slow, but once we got to 9,500 ft, cruise was a comfortable 130 kts
or so.
A note to Bob here -- the cruise on the way up was at around 2300 rpm, and we
burned about 26.5 gals to do it. The cruise on the way back was around 2000
rpm, and I ended up refilling the ganks with 20.5 gals. Running at a lower rpm
can really make a difference. Sort of like overdrive. The dangers of running
"oversquare" is an old wives tale, at least when flying above 6,000 feet.
Lindbergh knew it, and now so do you.
The last 30 minutes of the ride down at 3,500 feet made Bob appreciate the swamp
cooler air conditioner unit. It got warm down there real quick, and the cooler
air from the Beech Air Conditioner made a difference -- again, not something
that you could do in the Cessna. Landing was uneventful, and all too soon the
flight was over.
Soooo, Bob has decided that he had better start really looking for a Bonanza.
There was one out at Corona (AJO) that Bob was looking at, but it got snapped
up. I think that Bob has in mind one of the later 470-series engined Bonanzas,
but wouldn't back away from the earlier E-engine models if it were priced right
and properly equipped. The A35 for sale at John Wayne (N41DW) turned his head.
Its in pretty good shape, but the radios ought to be upgraded to something a
little more user-friendly. I believe the price is attractive enough to buy the
plane and then upgrade the radios. (And I don't even have a financial interest
in its sale.)
Meanwhile, I gotta make a phone call to a certain propeller overhauler and get
my prop pitch motor looked at ...
Blue skies,
Ron Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy |
----- Original Message -----
From: The Five Spot <fivespot(at)erols.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:bird not healthy
>
> Hi guys, Philip Cohen here - N3716N, (1947 35 w/ 1956 E-225/8)
The continuing saga.: Symptoms were: "idling at 1100RPM or lower, fuel
pressure would drop after 1 minute and engine would stall, unless helped
with a pump of the wobble pump".
After trying suggested remedies we've now removed the Thompson T1900
pump, (tedious, at best). (logbook showed a "serviceable" replacement was
installed 1 year ago, no history). The drive pin seems excessively loose,
but otherwise all seems normal. What's the latest on getting a kit, or, does
anyone know of a source for a "serviceable" pump?
After looking at it, I'm not sure I found my problem yet! Ouch?
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: E-185 cylinders |
Hi All,
In the for what its worth department, I have owned three bonanza's with
the e series engines and they all leaked just as Ron describes. My current
engine uses about 1 quart every 4 hours just like the others I have owned. I
have been told you can re-gasket the accessory case or have the engine case
re-torqued and this will stop the problem for a while. I am not mechanically
inclined so have never tried these remedies. I just keep my handy dandy shop
towels available and remove the oil after each flight. I wonder if Navion
owners suffer the same plight?
Kindest Regards,
Mark Mullahey
N25R B Model
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com |
Hey, guys I have a 50 amp generator with not too many hours on it. New
brushes were put in in march this year. It also got a new voltage regulator
at that time. It has now quit charging. You can flash the bat to the arm
terminals on the voltage regulator after start up and it will charge untill
you shut it off again. but each time you start it you must again flash the
voltage regulator before it will charge. Any one have any ideas. All
responses are appreciated. It is an F35 with E225.
Thanks in advance
Gene Smirl N4211B D4222
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
Gene,
Whaaa? Generator won't charge unless you flash (polarize) the generator again?
This isn't supposed to happen. Let me see ...
The voltage regulator ought to be located on the firewall in the cabin, just
above the passenger's side pedals. The voltage regulator (as everyone knows)
regulates the current and voltage coming out of the generator to recharge the
battery and the electrical components.
The voltage regulator ought to be a Delco-Remy 1101887 for the 35-amp, or the
1101888 for the 50-amp (which is now the Delco D601, I think, which is the
marine & heavy-duty use voltage regulator).
The 3 terminals on the voltage regulator are, I believe, Battery, Armature, and
Field. This is typical of the electrical systems of the day, and cars from the
40's and 50's had the same setup.
The most likely problem is either you have the wrong voltage regulator, or else
the one you have is bad. It shouldn't take but a couple of minutes to remove the
wires (remember where they go!) and take off the voltage regulator. There will
be three soleniod-looking devices inside.
#1 is the low-voltage battery cutoff, so juice won't drain "backwards" out of
the battery just because the system isn't generating enough to charge it. Its
different than the other two.
#2, the middle, is the current regulator. There is a philips screw on the side
of the solenoid that you can turn to adjust the current.
#3 looks like the middle solenoid, and is the voltage regulator. It also has a
philips screw on the side of the solenoid that you can turn to adjust the
voltage.
On top of the solenoids are small electrical contacts, similar to the "points"
on an old car's distributor. Check to make sure that all of these contacts have
gaps. Otherwise, the system won't work, and no amount of fussing will cure it.
You can adjust the *size* of the gap by turning the philips head adjustment
screw, but be careful. Do it 1/8 turn at a time.
You can go get a new Delco D601 at your local GM/Chevy store for about $80.00.
You can also get the "solid state" voltage regulator sold in ABS magazine for
about $300.00 + the STC.
I hope this helps,
Ron Davis
MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hey, guys I have a 50 amp generator with not too many hours on it. New
> brushes were put in in march this year. It also got a new voltage regulator
> at that time. It has now quit charging. You can flash the bat to the arm
> terminals on the voltage regulator after start up and it will charge untill
> you shut it off again. but each time you start it you must again flash the
> voltage regulator before it will charge. Any one have any ideas. All
> responses are appreciated. It is an F35 with E225.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Gene Smirl N4211B D4222
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
Gene;
Sounds like a bad regulator! Take it out and bring it to an automotive
rebuilding shop for testing.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: <MRSMIRL47(at)Aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 05, 2000 2:03 PM
Subject: Beech-List: no charge
>
> Hey, guys I have a 50 amp generator with not too many hours on it. New
> brushes were put in in march this year. It also got a new voltage
regulator
> at that time. It has now quit charging. You can flash the bat to the arm
> terminals on the voltage regulator after start up and it will charge
untill
> you shut it off again. but each time you start it you must again flash the
> voltage regulator before it will charge. Any one have any ideas. All
> responses are appreciated. It is an F35 with E225.
>
> Thanks in advance
> Gene Smirl N4211B D4222
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fish <roblfish(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another convert ... |
Yes indeed folks, I must admit I am now among your number. Not yet a connoisseur
but nevertheless, a convert. Ron Davis shows himself as such though. One of the
first things I remember him saying is that "it's imperative that you learn as much
as possible about this endeavor, flying" Bonanza or not. As the sayings goes,
"Gravity is not just an idea, it is the law and is not subject to repeal or
amendment". Ron does not come off as one would expect someone with such articulate
presence. He's a "high brow" without the high brow, a very down to earth individual
who tolerated my ignorance with great gentleness. Yes, that would be the definition
of "gentleman" wouldn't it? This everyone is one "sharp cookie". He impressed
me
even beyond what I expected with his knowledge both of Bonanzas AND that of most
of
the aircraft at Castle Air Museum. A walking encyclopedia I tell ya', the people
around us asked him questions as though we had a tour guide with us and...he knew
the answers! We're talking SR71 here kids, et al.
To return to Bonanza talk, it became extremely interesting when the prop. speed
control motor failed to control prop. speed. I love early Bonanzas but I believe
the hydraulic control would suit me more than the electric, though I'm sure there
are arguments both ways. There must be reasons that now most are other than
electric, as are later Bonz. It was quite fortunate that we were afforded a runway
with such length (11,800 feet) or the takeoff would have been unthinkable, at least
in my book. Ron did a good job of lifting his 'baby' gently off the runway and
stabilizing at a slow rate of ascent to keep from overheating the motor. I must
say, I would have expected more problem with the ambient that we were encountering.
Actually, this flight was such a great experience, there is no way to pay what
it
was worth. Oh, by the way, Ron, the checks in the mail. (20.5G?) I can take
a
hint. The pleasure was all mine, well, you can't really say that, when your both
in
a Bonanza.
Ron Davis wrote:
>
> To the Beech-Listers,
>
> I finally got to take Robert Fish for a ride in a Bonanza last Saturday.
>
> We met around 10:00am, toured John Wayne (SNA) airport grounds from the inside
> for a while, I went over the Bonanza, and we ended up launching around 11:45
> for the old Castle Air Force Base, now Atwater Airport (MER). The trip is about
> 275 miles, and we did it in just about 2 hours, startup to shutdown. A good
> example of the Bonanza's speed and range capability.
>
> Bob is currently a student pilot, being recently bitten by the bug now that he
> has all the kids out of the house and has time for a nice, time-consuming,
> expensive hobby. He is currently using the FBO's 1999 Cessna 172R for training,
> and was wondering if he should really make the jump from a 172 directly into
a
> Bonanza. I said that sure, its *very* possible. I went directly from the
> flight school's Piper Cherokee into the Bonanza, and after the 10 hrs of
> insurance company-mandated dual, I was ready to go it alone. (Actually, I
> didn't feel comfortable in the Bonanza until about 30 hours, but that's probably
> just me). I think he's got folks up in Oregon that he would like to see more
> often, and I remarked that I flew from LA to Seattle (with a single stop in
> Redding, Calif.) in about 9 hours. I think his eyes lit up then. His wife
> seems to be like mine, not really trusting anything smaller than a 737, but will
> probably warm up to it once she realizes that its just a couple of hours flight
> to visit family.
>
> Since this was mainly a test of my newly reinstalled Tactair autopilot, it was
> rather embarassing to turn it off and show him just how poor a pilot I really
> am, but he was a great passenger and didn't say a thing. Once out of the busy
> LA basin, Bob took the controls for about 45 minutes and remarked on the easy
> feel of the controls compared to the Cessna. Quieter, too. Of course, as
> fellow Bonanza flyers, we all know that already :-)
>
> Went to the Atwater (outdoor) air museum that has a B-17, B-24, B-25, B-29,
> B-36(!), B-52 and an SR-71 (among others). Quite a place. If you haven't been
> there, I highly recommend it. A short walk through the indoor museum, and a
> sandwich at the museum cafe.
>
> Back in the plane, and back home to John Wayne in another 2 hours. One slight
> mechanical problem showed up -- the darned prop pitch change motor with only
> 36.7 hours on it, stopped working. Prop was "fixed" at about 2000 rpm, so climb
> was a little slow, but once we got to 9,500 ft, cruise was a comfortable 130
kts
> or so.
>
> A note to Bob here -- the cruise on the way up was at around 2300 rpm, and we
> burned about 26.5 gals to do it. The cruise on the way back was around 2000
> rpm, and I ended up refilling the ganks with 20.5 gals. Running at a lower rpm
> can really make a difference. Sort of like overdrive. The dangers of running
> "oversquare" is an old wives tale, at least when flying above 6,000 feet.
> Lindbergh knew it, and now so do you.
>
> The last 30 minutes of the ride down at 3,500 feet made Bob appreciate the swamp
> cooler air conditioner unit. It got warm down there real quick, and the cooler
> air from the Beech Air Conditioner made a difference -- again, not something
> that you could do in the Cessna. Landing was uneventful, and all too soon the
> flight was over.
>
> Soooo, Bob has decided that he had better start really looking for a Bonanza.
> There was one out at Corona (AJO) that Bob was looking at, but it got snapped
> up. I think that Bob has in mind one of the later 470-series engined Bonanzas,
> but wouldn't back away from the earlier E-engine models if it were priced right
> and properly equipped. The A35 for sale at John Wayne (N41DW) turned his head.
> Its in pretty good shape, but the radios ought to be upgraded to something a
> little more user-friendly. I believe the price is attractive enough to buy the
> plane and then upgrade the radios. (And I don't even have a financial interest
> in its sale.)
>
> Meanwhile, I gotta make a phone call to a certain propeller overhauler and get
> my prop pitch motor looked at ...
>
> Blue skies,
> Ron Davis
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another convert ... |
Welcome! Looks like Ron has fooled yet another one. Hey Robert, start
lookin' and learnin'. "Those Incredible Bonanzas" by Larry Ball is a must
read for anyone that has not yet plunked their money down.
Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Bradley" <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Another convert ... |
Ron,
He is currently using the FBO's 1999 Cessna 172R for training,
>and was wondering if he should really make the jump from a 172 directly
>into a
>Bonanza. I said that sure, its *very* possible. I went directly from the
>flight school's Piper Cherokee into the Bonanza, and after the 10 hrs of
>insurance company-mandated dual, I was ready to go it alone. (Actually, I
>didn't feel comfortable in the Bonanza until about 30 hours, but that's
>probably
>just me).
I converted to a J35 straight after getting my PPL. I had about 50 hours
total time when I started my insurance company mandated 10 hours of dual. It
is very doable to convert from primary trainers to Bonanzas.
The Bonanza is a great flying airplane, and as you point out, quieter than
172R.
Alan Bradley
A36 N16SF
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Fish <roblfish(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another convert ... |
Mr. DeMarzo,
Thanks for the warm welcome. You know, I've had that book, 'Those
Incredible Bonanzas' for quite sometime and do use it for reference in my
quest for a Bonanza. It is the perfect book for those of us involved in this
'wonderful obsession' (yes that, I'm afraid is what it's become).
'Course, I know you don't really mean the "fooled" part, though my wife
would take it and run with it for all that it's worth. Respects, Bob.
A J DeMarzo wrote:
>
> Welcome! Looks like Ron has fooled yet another one. Hey Robert, start
> lookin' and learnin'. "Those Incredible Bonanzas" by Larry Ball is a must
> read for anyone that has not yet plunked their money down.
> Al
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Another convert ... |
It's Al, and I made a mistake on the title of that book. It was "Those
Incomparable Bonanzas" and they are incredible! Don't be afraid to ask
questions when you find something you just must have. It is very easy to
make a mistake. I almost closed a deal with a good friend on his Bonanza.
The deal was great for both of us. When the prebuy was done, there were
major squawk items that my friend wasn't even aware of!
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Fish" <roblfish(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2000 12:00 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Another convert ...
>
> Mr. DeMarzo,
> Thanks for the warm welcome. You know, I've had that book, 'Those
> Incredible Bonanzas' for quite sometime and do use it for reference in my
> quest for a Bonanza. It is the perfect book for those of us involved in
this
> 'wonderful obsession' (yes that, I'm afraid is what it's become).
> 'Course, I know you don't really mean the "fooled" part, though my wife
> would take it and run with it for all that it's worth. Respects, Bob.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M T Barksdale" <skyranger(at)hartcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/07/00 |
Ref: Low Time Pilots converting in Be35's. My opinion is [yep
ever'body's got one]
IS.. No problem if you have a well experienced Bonanza
Instructor. Worth loking for and even traveling to train with... And of
course then the BPPP Seminar.
Mac
Mac Barksdale, DVM
4270 Aloma Ave
Suite 124-33A
Winter Park, Fl 32792
skyranger(at)hartcom.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Dortch" <smallfish(at)enid.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/07/00 |
I am still working on my Straight 35 and have not yet flown it. I asked
three of my friends (over 100 years of V-tail flying between them) about the
best way to transition from a cessna 150 to the V-tail. They said that I did
need to learn to fly the plane and think farther ahead of the plane along
with retract gear and controlling the prop. However, they all said that the
Bonanza was easier to land than the 150, except that it could pick up speed
very quickly if the nose was pointed down. I am looking forward to getting
in the air.
Blue Skies,
Steve Dortch
4512V 1948 35 Bonanza
5744E Cessna 150
----- Original Message -----
From: M T Barksdale <skyranger(at)hartcom.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2000 3:30 PM
Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/07/00
>
> Ref: Low Time Pilots converting in Be35's. My opinion is [yep
> ever'body's got one]
> IS.. No problem if you have a well experienced Bonanza
> Instructor. Worth loking for and even traveling to train with... And of
> course then the BPPP Seminar.
>
> Mac
>
> Mac Barksdale, DVM
> 4270 Aloma Ave
> Suite 124-33A
> Winter Park, Fl 32792
> skyranger(at)hartcom.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Cognata" <mcognata(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Finishing and Corrosion Control of Mg Control Surfaces??? |
Hello all,
...Boy, here's a subject I know little about....
My B35 has magnesium skinned T-34 ailerons that are peeling paint at an
exponential rate since I purchased my aircraft. I know nothing about Mg
corrosion, controlling it, even what it looks like in its various forms, and
techniques for stripping and refinishing the surfaces... I have a local
A&P/AI available to help that knows little about Mg work as well, but can
assist with stripping, corrosion control, finishing, and balancing.
The left ruddervator has an area beginning to peel paint on the hingeline
near the balance weight.
Tips, methods, suggestions??? Any subject matter experts?
Thanks in advance...
Regards,
Matt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing and Corrosion Control of Mg Control Surfaces??? |
Sounds like the surfaces were not properly prepped. You need to strip them
down and treat them quickly. Surface corrosion can take over before you
know it and you'll not be able to clean it off adequately. Check the ABS CD
Rom, I'm sure you'll find what you need there. If not, find a paint shop
that is very experienced with beech control surfaces to do the work for you.
At last resort, call the Raytheon tech support line. They may have a SB
that you may acquire. Good Luck
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Cognata" <mcognata(at)home.com>
> Hello all,
> ...Boy, here's a subject I know little about....
> My B35 has magnesium skinned T-34 ailerons that are peeling paint
at an
> exponential rate since I purchased my aircraft. I know nothing about Mg
> corrosion, controlling it, even what it looks like in its various forms,
and
> techniques for stripping and refinishing the surfaces... I have a local
> A&P/AI available to help that knows little about Mg work as well, but can
> assist with stripping, corrosion control, finishing, and balancing.
> The left ruddervator has an area beginning to peel paint on the
hingeline
> near the balance weight.
> Tips, methods, suggestions??? Any subject matter experts?
>
> Thanks in advance...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Finishing and Corrosion Control of Mg Control |
Surfaces???
Matt,
Magnesium is different stuff. So light its spooky. A metal that can burn.
There was an article in a past ABS issue about prepping and treating magnesium.
You should be able to find it with no trouble with the ABS CD-ROM of back
issues. The big thing I remember is that once you have cleaned the surface, you
must apply the primer within MINUTES or else the oxidation process has already
begun again. You can't, say, strip 'em in the morning and primer them in the
afternoon. Sheesh.
And another thing ... I had my magnesium ruddervators rebuilt while my plane was
being painted. The rebuilder brought them back with the primer already on
(thank goodness). The painter certainly wasn't magnesuim-savvy. The
ruddervator rebuilder gave the painter *explicit* instructions that the
ruddervators needed to be baked under the lamps for 12-24 hours, so any moisture
that had settled into the crevices of the primer would be baked out. Then, and
only then, can you apply the paint with assurance that it won't have problems.
My painter was giving him that deer-in-the-headlights look, so I didn't get a
good feeling that he was gonna actually do it. It's been 2-1/2 years though,
and so far, so good.
Ron Davis
Matt Cognata wrote:
>
>
> Hello all,
> ...Boy, here's a subject I know little about....
> My B35 has magnesium skinned T-34 ailerons that are peeling paint at
an
> exponential rate since I purchased my aircraft. I know nothing about Mg
> corrosion, controlling it, even what it looks like in its various forms, and
> techniques for stripping and refinishing the surfaces... I have a local
> A&P/AI available to help that knows little about Mg work as well, but can
> assist with stripping, corrosion control, finishing, and balancing.
> The left ruddervator has an area beginning to peel paint on the hingeline
> near the balance weight.
> Tips, methods, suggestions??? Any subject matter experts?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> Regards,
> Matt.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/07/00 |
Steve,
Flying the Bonanza is a rush! But you *will* have to prepare for it, especially
if you are used to the Cessna 150.
You really need to get some dual time with an instructor that knows the Bonanza
-- it shouldn't be two of you up there figuring out how that plane flies. If
you can, the Bonanza Pilot Proficency Program (BPPP) is the way to go. Its a
3-day weekend chock-full of Bonanza-specific info. They travel around the
country, hosting the program in different places at different times. How to fly
it, how to treat the engine, v-speeds, etc. You'll be on Bonanza overload. The
price is kinda steep ($600 I think, plus lodging), but worth every dime. Check
the ABS web site (http://www.bonanza.org) for more info.
There are several bits already mentioned that you should keep in mind:
* There are several more systems on the Bonanza that you didn't have to mess
with on the 150.
landing gear
controllable pitch propeller
cowl flaps
fuel sysstem that feeds from only a single tank at a time -- no "both"
new (and more) v-speeds
You are going to be busier managing the plane. At takeoff, cruise, and
approach.
* The Beech throwover yoke (and the T-style dual yoke) seems wierd the first
time, then the feeling goes away. You may need the dual yoke for your dual
instruction. I would recommend getting one, renting one, or borrowing one for
your instruction.
* Even the door latch is different. Make sure its closed and locked properly.
* The Bonanza flies nearly twice the speed of the 150. Things happen a lot
sooner than what you are used to, so you may want to double the times (or
distances) you are used to working with. Calling the tower from 10 miles out
gives you half the time you are used to, so get ready.
* With the 150, 172, and other fixed-pitch prop aircraft, you usually adjust
power adjusting the throttle and looking at the rpm. Easy. But with a
controllable-pitch prop, pulling the throttle will have very little affect on
the rpm gauge, because the engine automatically adjusts the "bite" of the prop
to keep the same rpm. So we use the Manifold Pressure gauge to view the power.
Sort of like seeing how big each "bite" of gas the engine is taking when the
cylinder valve opens up. With the Bonanza, you usually cruise at 130 kts with
20" - 23" of manifold pressure (suction), but you can still fly at 70 kts on
only 15".
* The Beech electric prop is controllable, but not a constant-speed prop all by
itself. You have to have the propeller pitch governor option for that to work.
If you have the Hartzell hydraulic prop conversion, then it is a constant-speed
prop. There's more stuff to know about each.
* Oops. Time to switch tanks. And don't forget to close the cowl flaps now
you're at cruise altitude.
* There are more "housekeeping" chores to do on the Bonanza to get it ready for
landing. Slow the plane down (not as easy as you think the first 10 or 12
times), dropping the landing gear, dropping the flaps, adjusting the propeller's
pitch, open the cowl flaps, and pretending you have everything under control.
* How *do* you slow this thing down? 17" of manifold pressure, and its still
going like a bat out of Hell! Be patient, and learn about slips.
* The airframe is exceptionally slick, and without anything hanging in the
wind, it will not slow down like the Cessnas do. I try to plan for a 500 fpm
descent, or 2 minutes per thousand feet -- easy to figure the minutes used in
descent. If you have a GPS, then its a no-brainer to look at the minutes to
your destination, figure in the minutes needed for descent, ADD 10 MINUTES TO
THAT, and you know how many minutes away to start descending. Lowering the nose
to get down to the airport's traffic pattern altitude will pick up speed like a
bobsled. 160 kt. speeds can be the norm. With the increased speed, your ETA
starts unwinding to zero pretty quickly. Also, you need a few minutes of time
at TPA altitude to slow down.
* So, your first flight will have you racing toward the airport much faster
than you are used to, and there's less time to do things. There are several
more things to do that you didn't have to mess with before, and the darned plane
won't slow down! Now you're too fast and headed toward the pattern, and you
aren't ready yet. Pattern speed should be 90-100 kts. Did you forget
anything? "GUMP, Forrest": Gas (fullest tank), Undercarriage (down), Mixture
(full rich), Prop (hi rpm), Flaps (down). (Cowl flaps, too). Carb heat is almost
never needed on the Bonanza, but you may feel better in pulling that one out,
anyway. Approach speed of about 80 kts, easy, easy ... pass the numbers ...
pull the nose up -- look at the *end* of the runway now, speed bleeding away, 50
kts is about stall, and thump, your're down. That's okay. You'll do better
next time. (I've been telling that to myself for years) The landing flare and
touchdown will be different. Different speeds, different feel, different look.
Can't see the ground with that pesky wing in the way.
* But wait! you're not done yet! Once you're off the runway, raise the flaps
(not the gear!), turn off the strobe, open a window (gee, it gets warm fast in
here), and taxi to the parking spot.
There's so much more that you will need to know in flying a Bonanza, and it will
take time for you to become used to it -- that's why insurance companies insist
on a minimum of 10 hours of dual, and not just a how-to email from a
questionable source. I guess I didn't really feel comfortable in mine until I
hit the 30-hr mark, but then I always was a dodo.
Good luck,
Ron Davis
Steven Dortch wrote:
>
>
> I am still working on my Straight 35 and have not yet flown it. I asked
> three of my friends (over 100 years of V-tail flying between them) about the
> best way to transition from a cessna 150 to the V-tail. They said that I did
> need to learn to fly the plane and think farther ahead of the plane along
> with retract gear and controlling the prop. However, they all said that the
> Bonanza was easier to land than the 150, except that it could pick up speed
> very quickly if the nose was pointed down. I am looking forward to getting
> in the air.
> Blue Skies,
> Steve Dortch
> 4512V 1948 35 Bonanza
> 5744E Cessna 150
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Bradley" <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/07/00 |
Ron,
Some thoughts on transitioning to the Bonanza from a Ce-150. First, the USN
has used a Bonanza variant, the T-34, now T-34C for primary training for
years. This turboprop seems to work safely and well for them. For that
matter, the Argentine Armada useses the same plane as a primary trainier. I
submit if the USN and Argentine Armada can take people with no flight
training and solo them in under 8 hours, you can transition to a Bonanza
with a little instruction.
There are new speeds you will need to learn, but that is true of any
aircraft. In addition to all the speeds that the 150 had, you will also need
to remember the Vle and Vlo on your particular Bonanaza.
The biggest difference is power management and fuel management. Beech did us
no favors in the planes before the N model with their multiple fuel tanks.
If you have no experience with those, you need to take time to thoroughly
review the POH. If your plane does not have one of the new POH's buy one
from RAPID.
As far as power management goes, I always cruise my Bonanza at wide open
throttle. At 8 to 10 thousand feet that usually is 22" MP and 2300 RPM. Why
2300, noise. My d/c's can handle that, much more, and I'd have to buy an ENC
headset. The plane seems to run well WOT, and slightly cooler too. In my 520
powered airplane, I can actually lean to about 50 degrees lean of peak
without engine roughness. In the E powered airplanes, that is probably not
possible. If your plane doesn't have an EGT, I would suggest getting one.
Without it, I would lean to peak airspeed. That is best power, but it is
safe. If you choose to lean to roughness, and enrichen, that does risk
detonation. Not good.
Descent is another area that requires a little planning. I reduce manifold
pressure 5" for descent. Every thousand feet, I reduce the throttle to hold
a constant 18" The plane descends at the trimmed airspeed, and about 500
feet per minute. Once I get to pattern altitude, I stop the descent by
raising the nose, and retrimming, the plane slows pretty quickly. If you
really need to slow down, throw in hi pitch on the prop, but 18" and 2300
RPM will yield about 45% power on the I0470, I0520 and the E series engines.
45% power in most light Bonanzas is inthe 120 to 130 KIAS range. If you have
one of the E185 engines, the IAS will be lower, but still comfortably under
the Vle speed.
That is my usual pattern speed, unless the pattern is busy. If I need to be
slower, I reduce power to 15", leaving the prop alone. Gear down, and flaps
10 at the numbers yield a nice 600 foot per minute descent rate. I leave the
flaps alone after that, until the runway is within gliding distance. On
short final, after all the houses are behind me, I advance the prop to hi
RPM. At 15" or less, it probably won't spin up to full RPM anyway, but it's
there for a go around. Flaps 30 and reduce power to flare. The plane does
land nicer than a 150, and will handle much more crosswind. One more thing,
re-trim after every airspeed change. The Bonanza will give you a workout if
you don't.
Alan Bradley
A36 N16SF, former owner of a J35
>From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
>Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
>To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/07/00
>Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:57:05 -0700
>
>
>Steve,
>
>Flying the Bonanza is a rush! But you *will* have to prepare for it,
>especially
>if you are used to the Cessna 150.
>
>You really need to get some dual time with an instructor that knows the
>Bonanza
>-- it shouldn't be two of you up there figuring out how that plane flies.
>If
>you can, the Bonanza Pilot Proficency Program (BPPP) is the way to go. Its
>a
>3-day weekend chock-full of Bonanza-specific info. They travel around the
>country, hosting the program in different places at different times. How
>to fly
>it, how to treat the engine, v-speeds, etc. You'll be on Bonanza overload.
> The
>price is kinda steep ($600 I think, plus lodging), but worth every dime.
>Check
>the ABS web site (http://www.bonanza.org) for more info.
>
>There are several bits already mentioned that you should keep in mind:
>
>* There are several more systems on the Bonanza that you didn't have to
>mess
>with on the 150.
> landing gear
> controllable pitch propeller
> cowl flaps
> fuel sysstem that feeds from only a single tank at a time -- no "both"
> new (and more) v-speeds
>You are going to be busier managing the plane. At takeoff, cruise, and
>approach.
>
>* The Beech throwover yoke (and the T-style dual yoke) seems wierd the
>first
>time, then the feeling goes away. You may need the dual yoke for your dual
>instruction. I would recommend getting one, renting one, or borrowing one
>for
>your instruction.
>
>* Even the door latch is different. Make sure its closed and locked
>properly.
>
>* The Bonanza flies nearly twice the speed of the 150. Things happen a
>lot
>sooner than what you are used to, so you may want to double the times (or
>distances) you are used to working with. Calling the tower from 10 miles
>out
>gives you half the time you are used to, so get ready.
>
>* With the 150, 172, and other fixed-pitch prop aircraft, you usually
>adjust
>power adjusting the throttle and looking at the rpm. Easy. But with a
>controllable-pitch prop, pulling the throttle will have very little affect
>on
>the rpm gauge, because the engine automatically adjusts the "bite" of the
>prop
>to keep the same rpm. So we use the Manifold Pressure gauge to view the
>power.
>Sort of like seeing how big each "bite" of gas the engine is taking when
>the
>cylinder valve opens up. With the Bonanza, you usually cruise at 130 kts
>with
>20" - 23" of manifold pressure (suction), but you can still fly at 70 kts
>on
>only 15".
>
>* The Beech electric prop is controllable, but not a constant-speed prop
>all by
>itself. You have to have the propeller pitch governor option for that to
>work.
>If you have the Hartzell hydraulic prop conversion, then it is a
>constant-speed
>prop. There's more stuff to know about each.
>
>* Oops. Time to switch tanks. And don't forget to close the cowl flaps
>now
>you're at cruise altitude.
>
>* There are more "housekeeping" chores to do on the Bonanza to get it
>ready for
>landing. Slow the plane down (not as easy as you think the first 10 or 12
>times), dropping the landing gear, dropping the flaps, adjusting the
>propeller's
>pitch, open the cowl flaps, and pretending you have everything under
>control.
>
>* How *do* you slow this thing down? 17" of manifold pressure, and its
>still
>going like a bat out of Hell! Be patient, and learn about slips.
>
>* The airframe is exceptionally slick, and without anything hanging in the
>wind, it will not slow down like the Cessnas do. I try to plan for a 500
>fpm
>descent, or 2 minutes per thousand feet -- easy to figure the minutes used
>in
>descent. If you have a GPS, then its a no-brainer to look at the minutes
>to
>your destination, figure in the minutes needed for descent, ADD 10 MINUTES
>TO
>THAT, and you know how many minutes away to start descending. Lowering the
>nose
>to get down to the airport's traffic pattern altitude will pick up speed
>like a
>bobsled. 160 kt. speeds can be the norm. With the increased speed, your
>ETA
>starts unwinding to zero pretty quickly. Also, you need a few minutes of
>time
>at TPA altitude to slow down.
>
>* So, your first flight will have you racing toward the airport much
>faster
>than you are used to, and there's less time to do things. There are
>several
>more things to do that you didn't have to mess with before, and the darned
>plane
>won't slow down! Now you're too fast and headed toward the pattern, and
>you
>aren't ready yet. Pattern speed should be 90-100 kts. Did you forget
>anything? "GUMP, Forrest": Gas (fullest tank), Undercarriage (down),
>Mixture
>(full rich), Prop (hi rpm), Flaps (down). (Cowl flaps, too). Carb heat is
>almost
>never needed on the Bonanza, but you may feel better in pulling that one
>out,
>anyway. Approach speed of about 80 kts, easy, easy ... pass the numbers
>...
>pull the nose up -- look at the *end* of the runway now, speed bleeding
>away, 50
>kts is about stall, and thump, your're down. That's okay. You'll do
>better
>next time. (I've been telling that to myself for years) The landing flare
>and
>touchdown will be different. Different speeds, different feel, different
>look.
>Can't see the ground with that pesky wing in the way.
>
>* But wait! you're not done yet! Once you're off the runway, raise the
>flaps
>(not the gear!), turn off the strobe, open a window (gee, it gets warm fast
>in
>here), and taxi to the parking spot.
>
>There's so much more that you will need to know in flying a Bonanza, and it
>will
>take time for you to become used to it -- that's why insurance companies
>insist
>on a minimum of 10 hours of dual, and not just a how-to email from a
>questionable source. I guess I didn't really feel comfortable in mine
>until I
>hit the 30-hr mark, but then I always was a dodo.
>
>Good luck,
>Ron Davis
>
>
>Steven Dortch wrote:
> >
> >
> > I am still working on my Straight 35 and have not yet flown it. I asked
> > three of my friends (over 100 years of V-tail flying between them) about
>the
> > best way to transition from a cessna 150 to the V-tail. They said that I
>did
> > need to learn to fly the plane and think farther ahead of the plane
>along
> > with retract gear and controlling the prop. However, they all said that
>the
> > Bonanza was easier to land than the 150, except that it could pick up
>speed
> > very quickly if the nose was pointed down. I am looking forward to
>getting
> > in the air.
> > Blue Skies,
> > Steve Dortch
> > 4512V 1948 35 Bonanza
> > 5744E Cessna 150
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Simpson <siaero(at)siaero.com.au> |
| Subject: | Straight 35 interior color |
Hello all..
I hope someone can help me. I am currently restoring from scratch S/N
D614 straight 35 and need to find out instrument panel color and comming
panel color as delivered from the factory,,,, I have seen most of the
interior shots from the various sites containing information regarding
this vintage but connot seam to find a standard or a listing of the
original colors,,,, Does anyone have any details as to what the
original scheme was.. My intention is to restore to original config,
except for the radio package so need to know if possible,,how the
aircraft would have been delivered. And if anyone has details,,,
exterior schemes for all metal polished with the painted cowl, stripes
and flight controls.. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The story
behind this aircraft is a long one with a lot of charactor,, rumoured
to be Australia's first Bonanza imported in 1960, and we would like to
preserve the originality if we can,, Thanks in advance.
Robert Simpson
Simpson Aeroelectrics P/L
Melbourne Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Straight 35 interior color |
Hello Robert;
Dial up http://www.vintagebonanza.com under the refurbish link, there should
be a path to the interior colors. I suggest the book "Those Incomparable
Bonanzas" for one of the finest references of originality as I've seen.
Good Luck
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Simpson" <siaero(at)siaero.com.au>
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2000 6:23 AM
Subject: Beech-List: Straight 35 interior color
>
> Hello all..
> I hope someone can help me. I am currently restoring from scratch S/N
> D614 straight 35 and need to find out instrument panel color and comming
> panel color as delivered from the factory,,,, I have seen most of the
> interior shots from the various sites containing information regarding
> this vintage but connot seam to find a standard or a listing of the
> original colors,,,, Does anyone have any details as to what the
> original scheme was.. My intention is to restore to original config,
> except for the radio package so need to know if possible,,how the
> aircraft would have been delivered. And if anyone has details,,,
> exterior schemes for all metal polished with the painted cowl, stripes
> and flight controls.. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The story
> behind this aircraft is a long one with a lot of charactor,, rumoured
> to be Australia's first Bonanza imported in 1960, and we would like to
> preserve the originality if we can,, Thanks in advance.
> Robert Simpson
> Simpson Aeroelectrics P/L
> Melbourne Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Alan Bradley" <wabpilot(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Straight 35 interior color |
Bob,
An advertisement I saw for the 35 showed the plane in red as the exterior
trim color. I regret that I have long since misplaced the ad. However,
Sporty's Pilot Shop did reproduce it on a coffee mug. As to the interior, my
A35 handbook is all in black and white, but it does show the instrument
layout. If you want a xerox copy, just let me know, or I can even try to
scan it.
Alan Bradley
A36 (now) N16SF
>From: Robert Simpson <siaero(at)siaero.com.au>
>Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
>To: "beech-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: Beech-List: Straight 35 interior color
>Date: Tue, 11 Jul 2000 21:23:05 +1000
>
>
>Hello all..
>I hope someone can help me. I am currently restoring from scratch S/N
>D614 straight 35 and need to find out instrument panel color and comming
>panel color as delivered from the factory,,,, I have seen most of the
>interior shots from the various sites containing information regarding
>this vintage but connot seam to find a standard or a listing of the
>original colors,,,, Does anyone have any details as to what the
>original scheme was.. My intention is to restore to original config,
>except for the radio package so need to know if possible,,how the
>aircraft would have been delivered. And if anyone has details,,,
>exterior schemes for all metal polished with the painted cowl, stripes
>and flight controls.. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The story
>behind this aircraft is a long one with a lot of charactor,, rumoured
>to be Australia's first Bonanza imported in 1960, and we would like to
>preserve the originality if we can,, Thanks in advance.
>Robert Simpson
>Simpson Aeroelectrics P/L
>Melbourne Australia
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Straight 35 interior color |
Robert,
As Al DeM. has already noted, one of the best references for model-specific
information is "Those Incomparable Bonanzas" by Larry Ball (available for sale
at the American Bonanza Society company store on their web site:
http://www.bonanza.org
There is a companion book, "They Called Me 'Mr. Bonanza'" also by Larry Ball,
that picks up on the models where the first book left off.
As to info on the original Model Thirty Five, there are a couple of photos of
the original dashboard and there are photos of each model Bonanza, but I believe
all the photos are in black & white. Pity.
The Beech Shop Manual has a list of interior and exterior color codes, and the
model years they are applicable. However, the color code formula may have
changed over time, so the original "Matterhorn White" may not be the exact same
color it was back in 1947. To get an *exact* match, your only real hope is to
find an sample of the original paint, say a tiny bit around the cowl locks.
Luckily, the original polished metal and red striping paint scheme was very
popular (I imagine Beech made most of the first 1,500 Bonanzas with that same
paint job), so finding photos of it should not be insurmountable. Furthermore,
I believe there was an article in "Private Pilot" or "Plane & Pilot" magazine (I
forget which) about 5 years ago about the Bonanza. I think it was another
1947-1997 article about the Bonanza. Anyway, they found an (80-odd year old)
original owner of an original Model Thirty Five with the original paint job,
nicks and all. The magazine's photo of the dash showed the usual ravages of a
Narco MK12 installation, and a transponder, but the rest was as-delivered from
Beech.
There is another resource for color schemes, and that would be original print
media from that time. You may be able to find an old magazine from 1946-1948
that has a Beechcraft Bonanza advert. Most of the magazine photography was in
black & white, but it will show you the layout. You may be able to cheat and
look at eBay (http://www.ebay.com) and search for such ads for sale. Buy them
if you must, but perhaps merely downloading the JPEG image they have of the item
will be adequate for your search.
Finally, you may be able to obtain an original sales brochure for the Bonanza,
or an original handbook. Thre are a couple of companies that do this for a
living -- you may want to contact them and commission them to find one for you.
But it won't be cheap.
Matching the interior upholstery will be extremely difficult, mainly because the
fabric used back then was purchased from GM, I think, as overrun material from
doing car upholstery. The original patterns will be long gone. From what I've
seen, the interior from Airtex is fairly original (but certainly not plaid, as
it was probably delivered), and will probably serve its purpose with a minimum
of outrageous expense. I don't know if the Airtex interior also includes the
flap that covers the baggage area or not, though.
Finally, I have *never* seen an original model Thirty Five with the original
antenna system intact on the tailcone. This is the funnel-shaped device between
the v-tail ruddervators where the Mororola's radio antenna is supposed to
automatically unwind at 110 mph or so and trail behind the airplane, and then
rewind back in at the pattern speed of around 90. The best I've seen is a
teeardrop-shaped chunk of the mast for the funnel that still remained in the
tailcone.
Other restoration problems may involve the actual dashboard instruments
themselves. The dials had a radium and phosphorescent coating so they would
glow at night. Very clever, but the American Environmental Protection Agency
has declared that a few tiny dribbles of radium is terribly poisonous, and is
now forbidden. You can't have radium-coated dials anymore. Does anyone know of
a person that got cancer on his wrist where his radium-coated wristwatch used to
be? (However, I *do* know that some watchmakers still keep a pot of the stuff
around to restore old wristwatches on the sly, so there may still be a way yet.
Or else the Australian government isn't yet so rabid about such small matters.
My friend has a Mercedes Benz that had its radio stolen -- twice. The third
time he put the radio in, but had a fake cover made to hide the radio
completely. I haven't checked the dimensions, but you *may* be able to obtain
a
dead original Motorola radio, and use the faceplate to cover up your modern
radio stack, thus preserving the really original look of the plane.
The original Model Thirty Fives came with wooden propellers. I believe that
there is an onerous AD on the wooden props, so everyone has switched to
aluminum. I think there is a back issue of ABS magazine that mentioned that one
owner of an original Thirty Five uses a metal blade for flying, but keeps a
wooden blade for shows.
Good luck,
Ron Davis
Robert Simpson wrote:
>
>
> Hello all..
> I hope someone can help me. I am currently restoring from scratch S/N
> D614 straight 35 and need to find out instrument panel color and comming
> panel color as delivered from the factory,,,, I have seen most of the
> interior shots from the various sites containing information regarding
> this vintage but connot seam to find a standard or a listing of the
> original colors,,,, Does anyone have any details as to what the
> original scheme was.. My intention is to restore to original config,
> except for the radio package so need to know if possible,,how the
> aircraft would have been delivered. And if anyone has details,,,
> exterior schemes for all metal polished with the painted cowl, stripes
> and flight controls.. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The story
> behind this aircraft is a long one with a lot of charactor,, rumoured
> to be Australia's first Bonanza imported in 1960, and we would like to
> preserve the originality if we can,, Thanks in advance.
> Robert Simpson
> Simpson Aeroelectrics P/L
> Melbourne Australia
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Straight 35 interior color |
Robert,
I belive my 1948 Straight 35 D-1373 has the original interior, it is red
and white naugahyde, not plaid. I find no evidence in logs or otherwise
that it has been replaced. My panel is also original except for instrument
and radio replacements. The only thing missing from my original panel is
the pilot's side map compartment, like a small glove box at the lower edge
of the panel. If my 48 is not to NEW, let me know. The ship was painted in
the mid-seventies so I can't help with the outside, but I too am interested
in original trim schemes.
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, Las Vegas, NV
> Robert Simpson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hello all..
> > I hope someone can help me. I am currently restoring from scratch S/N
> > D614 straight 35 and need to find out instrument panel color and comming
> > Robert Simpson
> > Simpson Aeroelectrics P/L
> > Melbourne Australia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robert Simpson <siaero(at)siaero.com.au> |
| Subject: | Straight 35 rebuild |
Dear People,
As expected, and greatly appreciated, the replies to my post are floding
in. Lots of good information to start with so thanks to all who
replied. Some of the issues raised have been followed up already,
including original sales info, bonanza books etc, and the worst part is
the conflicts i am finding between pictures is now going to drive me
mad. Oh well,,, everyone said i was crazy to start with,, 'spose this
will just confirm it. To any that need it, my company in Australia
specialize in electrical, instrument and radio refits, and due to the
addition of the beech, we have scoured the country for technical
information and now have a very large file on some hard to get
publications from Beech, including certain O/H and repair data on the
electric prop and the govrnor to suit.( we just repaired one for a
friend of mine,, fancy, glass electron valves controlling a propellor,,
had to really dig out the old data books then!!!!!), So if anyone wants
any help,, please let me know,, will scan what we got and post or email
as required. Back to my problem, if anyone has any more pics, photo's
sales lit. ANYTHING!!!! on the interior, please let me know. Would be
greatly appreciated.
Keep 'em shiny side up
Regards
Rob Simpson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Dortch" <smallfish(at)enid.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/07/00 |
Thanks for the advice and concern. The three Boanaza Gurus that I am working
with have been flying and instructing for well over 100 years and all own
bonanzas. They are not saying that there is nothing to learn but simply that
I should not let the plane intimidate me. When you do everying right and
come over the numbers it is a very straight forward plane to land.
I decided on a Classic Bonanza because of them. They convinced me that
right now the Classic Bonanzas are at a very good price and for slightly
more than the Price of a good Cessna 172 I could restore a Bonanza and have
a lot more plane.
Thanks again,
Steve Dortch
Cessna 150
Straight 35
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Davis <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2000 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/07/00
>
> Steve,
>
> Flying the Bonanza is a rush! But you *will* have to prepare for it,
especially
> if you are used to the Cessna 150.
>
> You really need to get some dual time with an instructor that knows the
Bonanza
> -- it shouldn't be two of you up there figuring out how that plane flies.
If
> you can, the Bonanza Pilot Proficency Program (BPPP) is the way to go.
Its a
> 3-day weekend chock-full of Bonanza-specific info. They travel around the
> country, hosting the program in different places at different times. How
to fly
> it, how to treat the engine, v-speeds, etc. You'll be on Bonanza
overload. The
> price is kinda steep ($600 I think, plus lodging), but worth every dime.
Check
> the ABS web site (http://www.bonanza.org) for more info.
>
> There are several bits already mentioned that you should keep in mind:
>
> * There are several more systems on the Bonanza that you didn't have to
mess
> with on the 150.
> landing gear
> controllable pitch propeller
> cowl flaps
> fuel sysstem that feeds from only a single tank at a time -- no "both"
> new (and more) v-speeds
> You are going to be busier managing the plane. At takeoff, cruise, and
> approach.
>
> * The Beech throwover yoke (and the T-style dual yoke) seems wierd the
first
> time, then the feeling goes away. You may need the dual yoke for your
dual
> instruction. I would recommend getting one, renting one, or borrowing one
for
> your instruction.
>
> * Even the door latch is different. Make sure its closed and locked
properly.
>
> * The Bonanza flies nearly twice the speed of the 150. Things happen a
lot
> sooner than what you are used to, so you may want to double the times (or
> distances) you are used to working with. Calling the tower from 10 miles
out
> gives you half the time you are used to, so get ready.
>
> * With the 150, 172, and other fixed-pitch prop aircraft, you usually
adjust
> power adjusting the throttle and looking at the rpm. Easy. But with a
> controllable-pitch prop, pulling the throttle will have very little affect
on
> the rpm gauge, because the engine automatically adjusts the "bite" of the
prop
> to keep the same rpm. So we use the Manifold Pressure gauge to view the
power.
> Sort of like seeing how big each "bite" of gas the engine is taking when
the
> cylinder valve opens up. With the Bonanza, you usually cruise at 130 kts
with
> 20" - 23" of manifold pressure (suction), but you can still fly at 70 kts
on
> only 15".
>
> * The Beech electric prop is controllable, but not a constant-speed prop
all by
> itself. You have to have the propeller pitch governor option for that to
work.
> If you have the Hartzell hydraulic prop conversion, then it is a
constant-speed
> prop. There's more stuff to know about each.
>
> * Oops. Time to switch tanks. And don't forget to close the cowl flaps
now
> you're at cruise altitude.
>
> * There are more "housekeeping" chores to do on the Bonanza to get it
ready for
> landing. Slow the plane down (not as easy as you think the first 10 or 12
> times), dropping the landing gear, dropping the flaps, adjusting the
propeller's
> pitch, open the cowl flaps, and pretending you have everything under
control.
>
> * How *do* you slow this thing down? 17" of manifold pressure, and its
still
> going like a bat out of Hell! Be patient, and learn about slips.
>
> * The airframe is exceptionally slick, and without anything hanging in
the
> wind, it will not slow down like the Cessnas do. I try to plan for a 500
fpm
> descent, or 2 minutes per thousand feet -- easy to figure the minutes used
in
> descent. If you have a GPS, then its a no-brainer to look at the minutes
to
> your destination, figure in the minutes needed for descent, ADD 10 MINUTES
TO
> THAT, and you know how many minutes away to start descending. Lowering
the nose
> to get down to the airport's traffic pattern altitude will pick up speed
like a
> bobsled. 160 kt. speeds can be the norm. With the increased speed, your
ETA
> starts unwinding to zero pretty quickly. Also, you need a few minutes of
time
> at TPA altitude to slow down.
>
> * So, your first flight will have you racing toward the airport much
faster
> than you are used to, and there's less time to do things. There are
several
> more things to do that you didn't have to mess with before, and the darned
plane
> won't slow down! Now you're too fast and headed toward the pattern, and
you
> aren't ready yet. Pattern speed should be 90-100 kts. Did you forget
> anything? "GUMP, Forrest": Gas (fullest tank), Undercarriage (down),
Mixture
> (full rich), Prop (hi rpm), Flaps (down). (Cowl flaps, too). Carb heat is
almost
> never needed on the Bonanza, but you may feel better in pulling that one
out,
> anyway. Approach speed of about 80 kts, easy, easy ... pass the numbers
...
> pull the nose up -- look at the *end* of the runway now, speed bleeding
away, 50
> kts is about stall, and thump, your're down. That's okay. You'll do
better
> next time. (I've been telling that to myself for years) The landing
flare and
> touchdown will be different. Different speeds, different feel, different
look.
> Can't see the ground with that pesky wing in the way.
>
> * But wait! you're not done yet! Once you're off the runway, raise the
flaps
> (not the gear!), turn off the strobe, open a window (gee, it gets warm
fast in
> here), and taxi to the parking spot.
>
> There's so much more that you will need to know in flying a Bonanza, and
it will
> take time for you to become used to it -- that's why insurance companies
insist
> on a minimum of 10 hours of dual, and not just a how-to email from a
> questionable source. I guess I didn't really feel comfortable in mine
until I
> hit the 30-hr mark, but then I always was a dodo.
>
> Good luck,
> Ron Davis
>
>
> Steven Dortch wrote:
> >
> >
> > I am still working on my Straight 35 and have not yet flown it. I asked
> > three of my friends (over 100 years of V-tail flying between them) about
the
> > best way to transition from a cessna 150 to the V-tail. They said that I
did
> > need to learn to fly the plane and think farther ahead of the plane
along
> > with retract gear and controlling the prop. However, they all said that
the
> > Bonanza was easier to land than the 150, except that it could pick up
speed
> > very quickly if the nose was pointed down. I am looking forward to
getting
> > in the air.
> > Blue Skies,
> > Steve Dortch
> > 4512V 1948 35 Bonanza
> > 5744E Cessna 150
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Cognata" <mcognata(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Anyone know of stripper safe for Mg? |
Hello all,
Thanks for the responses to my previous posts. There is a wealth of
information here.
Does anyone know what available paint stripper is safe for use on
Magnesium? That's the only knowledge tidbit that seems lacking at the
moment.
Thanks in advance...
Regards,
Matt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Original Bonanza layout ... |
All,
There have been several of you that have wanted to know about the original paint
schemes, original interior appointments, original dashboard layout of the 1947
Model Thirty Five Bonanza.
(I sent an email direct to Rob Simpson who started all this, but my Webmistress
says that the message keeps bouncing back with a 'bad header', so I hope he can
read the info here. I never got anything directly saying that the message
didn't go through.)
I have scanned in an article from Private Pilot Magazine, May 1996, as a PDF
file. It is about a 1947 Bonanza purchased by and still owned by the same man.
It hasn't been repainted, updated or modified, except for the trailing antenna
and the addition of a Narco MK-12A radio. Doesn't even look as if he has a
transponder. Original seats, upholstery, paint job. All the original placards
are still on the dashboard (!)
The PDF file is over 16 MB, so I'll post it on my FTP site so you can download
it from there.
The FTP site is: /cust/atkins.com/download/luke/
and the file is: "PrivatePilot_199605.PDF"
The size of this file is about 16 MB.
In addition, I have scanned in an original 1954 E35 Bonanza sales brochure, as
a
PDF file, and put it on the FTP site, too. The 12-page 11"x8.5" sales brochure
is very helpful on several little points, like the seat belts and rear seat
design.
The file name is: "E35 Sales Brochure.PDF"
but be forewarned - its over 35 MB.
My own 1954 E35 is not original, nor is it even 1954-authentic anymore. I
thought that the 1954 paint scheme was rather unflattering, so when I had mine
repainted and reupholstered I just gave it a kind of generic 1950's look. Beech
never made 'em like that, but it looks like they might have.
Best,
Ron Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Original Bonanza layout ... |
Hey Ron:
How about the whole address or directions to get to your ftp site for
those of us that can barely post an e-mail.
Regards,
Randy
> The FTP site is: /cust/atkins.com/download/luke/
> and the file is: "PrivatePilot_199605.PDF"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Original Bonanza layout ... |
All,
I'm not all that FTP-savvy, either, but this is what my Webmistress said to do:
To download a file from our company's FTP site using an FTP client (like
Ipswitch's WS_FTP), set your ftp client to:
General tab:
Profile Name : (whatever, probably 'anonymous download')
Host Name/Address: ftp.ni.net
Host type : Automatic detect
User Id : anonymous
Password : (any valid e-mail address)
Account : (blank)
Startup tab:
(all blank)
Press the 'Connect' button
The system should connect to the FTP site -- now all you have to do is go to the
directory and download it.
At the 'Remote Site' box, type:
/cust/atkins.com/download/Luke
That should get you to the directory where the two files are. They should show
up as:
1954 E35 Sale~ 20000717 18:56 35038559
PrivatePilot_~ 20000714 16:24 16323859
On the left side, select your destination directory.
On the right side, select (highlight) one, the other, or both.
Then click the left arrow to download the file(s).
When you're done, click the 'Close' button.
You're done.
- - -
My Webmistress said that you can also retrieve it just using your Netscape or
Internet explorer by tpying in the following Web address:
ftp://ftp.ni.net/cust/atkins.com/download/Luke/PrivatePilot_199605.PDF
ftp://ftp.ni.net/cust/atkins.com/download/Luke/E35 Sales Brochure.PDF
NOTE: File names are case sensitive!
It will take a loooong while since the files are pretty big, but one of these
two methods should get the file. Mine said "Connecting" for the longest time
before even loading in the Adobe Acrobat PDF Reader plug-in, then another huge
amount of time downloading it. Once its on your screen, you can save it to your
system. Click 'File', 'Save As', and you ought to know the rest.
- - -
Due to the size of these, my Webmistress will probably pull these off by the end
of the week, so get 'em now...
Ron Davis
"Randy L. Thwing" wrote:
>
>
> Hey Ron:
> How about the whole address or directions to get to your ftp site for
> those of us that can barely post an e-mail.
> Regards,
> Randy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Room at OSH available |
Well, my on-again off-again plans for OSH are off again, at least for most
of it, so the room I had reserved will be available. This is a room with a
queen bed in a nice house with central air. The hostess, Sharon Hawkins,
provides continental breakfast. She works the EAA too so it should be
possible to catch a ride with her to and from the show when she goes. The
house is close to a bus line so you can get to/from that way too. Its
available for the whole show.
If interested, contact Sharon Hawkins, 920-232-8554.
Please email me if you get the room so I can get my deposit back.
Randall Henderson
randall(at)edt.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randall Henderson" <randallh(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Room at OSH taken |
Looks like the room I posted at OSH (Sharon Hawkins') has been taken
(Charlie, be sure to let me and/or the list know if anything changes.)
I will in fact be going but not until Friday or Saturday, and I'll just
camp. Look forward to seeing y'all!
Randall Henderson, RV-6 N6R (~100 hrs)
Portland, OR
http://www.edt.com/homewing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/07/00 |
Beechers,
Thanks to all for your advice on my "stalling at low RPM" problem.
Turned out to be a marginal fuel pump. New diaphrams, seal and pin,
testing - $495. plus shipping.
On another note, does anyone know whether it matters how the mags are
wired:
1. right = top, left = bottom
or
2. mixed/top/botom, left/right? Thanks again, Philip.3716N
straight 35 1947
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/07/00 |
Philip,
I'm not sure if you have the Eisemann LA-6 or the Bendix/Scintilla S6LN-21
magnetos. Not that it should make any difference ...
My TCM E225 parts book has a diagram shows that the mags wired as follows:
Left Mag : 1-3-5 top, and 2-4-6 bottom.
Right Mag: 1-3-5 bottom, and 2-4-6 top.
But, the E225 Overhaul manual says:
"Right hand magneto fires upper plugs"
"Left hand magneto fires lower plugs."
Go figure.
The Beech Maintenance Manual (1955) says:
"The right magneto fires the top row of spark plugs."
Gee, I guess I'll have to look at my own plane's wiring to see how its done.
The firing order is 1-6-3-2-5-4, but you knew that.
Ron Davis
The Five Spot wrote:
>
>
> Beechers,
> Thanks to all for your advice on my "stalling at low RPM" problem.
> Turned out to be a marginal fuel pump. New diaphrams, seal and pin,
> testing - $495. plus shipping.
>
> On another note, does anyone know whether it matters how the mags are
> wired:
> 1. right = top, left = bottom
> or
> 2. mixed/top/botom, left/right?
>
> Thanks again, Philip
> 3716N straight 35 1947
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 07/07/00 |
Left side top by left mag bottom Right by Left mag
Top Right by right mag; bottom left by right mag.
They are usually stamped on the B-nut and made to length so hard to mix up;
but I am sure a way can be found!!!
Dave Walen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carl True <carltrue(at)yahoo.com> |
FWIW, since the bottom plugs always run a bit dirtier
than the tops, if you put them all on one mag you will
likely always see an rpm drop differential on the mag
check, bottom being a bit lower.
CT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Alston" <jalsto(at)flash.net> |
When I bought my D35, I was advised to change the wiring scheme when I
replaced the harness to split each mag between top and bottom.
There is no service bulletin or anything to back this up. Don't have the
parts manual, so I can't speak from there. The TCM OH manual does say right
mag to the tops, left mag to the bottoms.
My a&p wouldn't sign it off without the proper documentation to back up the
change.
Had to switch them back.
I also hear that many people just switch them anyway. If you do, check that
both mags are the same timing. I have Bedix S6LN-21 mags and both are timed
the same.
I don't see much of a difference between mags on the runup, but I always
lean for taxi.
Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: Carl True <carltrue(at)yahoo.com>
Date: Wednesday, July 26, 2000 3:34 PM
Subject: Beech-List: Re: Mag Wiring
>
>FWIW, since the bottom plugs always run a bit dirtier
>than the tops, if you put them all on one mag you will
>likely always see an rpm drop differential on the mag
>check, bottom being a bit lower.
>
>CT
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Dortch" <smallfish(at)enid.com> |
OK listers, let me state this clearly! I did not do this. It happened to a
friend of mine at my airport. I have my own mistakes to make.
A friend of mine had something off of his accessory case (Generator I
think) and put a paper towel in the hole to keep dirt and dust out. He
pulled the papar towel out but one sheet of it remained and he did not
notice. He put the part back on and ran the engine.
Guess what happened next? The oil pressure went away and he stopped the
enigine. When he pulled the oil screen it was plugged with paper. He cleaned
it, changed the oil and started over. Then he had problems with the Hartsunk
Hydrolick prop. It now has paper in it. (He sent it off to be cleaned up by
M&M propellors in Yukon, Oklahoma. A Good prop shop that will work with you
to keep prices down but won't compromise quality. They helped me get my
Beech 215 prop. with a fresh overhaul.)
My friend has cleaned up everything he can think of but really doesnt
want to split the case on his E225 motor, if he can help it. Does anyone
have any Suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paper in engine |
Steven,
Paper (wood bits) sounds pretty bad. Since all of the accessories are lubed by
engine oil, they may all be contaminated. Then again, since they sit up pretty
high, they may get enough washing action that all the crud is rinsed off of
them. I think I would want to at least pull a magneto or the generator and
confirm that they are okay.
If so, then it sounds like your friend has already done all he can, save for
exhaustive flushing of the engine and related components with gallons and
gallons of oil, or solvent, or maybe jet kerosene. Then refill with oil, then
dump that kerosene-contaminated oil, then refill again. (Hmmm. I wonder what
an auto mechanic would do if I told him I accidentally dropped a paper towel in
the oil refill cap?)
Still, who knows about the crankcase journals and valve tappets? I sure would
want to get a borescope and take a look at what's adrift in there. There are
probably still bits in the engine that could cause grief later.
However, wood slivers aren't as hard as metal slivers, so they may not be as
damaging as it first sounds.
This sounds like the perfect opportunity for your friend to replace the oil
screen with a spin-on oil filter from Lew Gage. He may need it.
Best of luck,
Ron Davis
Steven Dortch wrote:
>
>
> OK listers, let me state this clearly! I did not do this. It happened to a
> friend of mine at my airport. I have my own mistakes to make.
>
> A friend of mine had something off of his accessory case (Generator I
> think) and put a paper towel in the hole to keep dirt and dust out. He
> pulled the papar towel out but one sheet of it remained and he did not
> notice. He put the part back on and ran the engine.
> Guess what happened next? The oil pressure went away and he stopped the
> enigine. When he pulled the oil screen it was plugged with paper. He cleaned
> it, changed the oil and started over. Then he had problems with the Hartsunk
> Hydrolick prop. It now has paper in it. (He sent it off to be cleaned up by
> M&M propellors in Yukon, Oklahoma. A Good prop shop that will work with you
> to keep prices down but won't compromise quality. They helped me get my
> Beech 215 prop. with a fresh overhaul.)
> My friend has cleaned up everything he can think of but really doesnt
> want to split the case on his E225 motor, if he can help it. Does anyone
> have any Suggestions?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mark MacKenzie" <Mark.MacKenzie(at)nashville.com> |
This is my first posting to the list. I have recently acquired N3190V a 1947
"straight" 35.
I removed the aux tank and floorboard under it and noticed that the fuel
vent or banjo fitting has leaked a bit. The black asphalt looking sound
proofing material appears gummy and I want to remove it for fear of
retaining the corrosive fuel and moisture. There seems to be no sign of
corrosion now.
I wonder if any one knows of a spray soundproofing material or has a
suggestion.
I wonder also if I should remove the tank. I have tip tanks.
Many thanks, Mark MacKenzie, Nashville, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sound proofing |
I used regular automotive undercoating from NAPA on mine 2 years ago and it
has held up fine. Rubber based. I would recommend against putting any kind
of insulation or padding there as it will hold moisture. If you remove the
tank you won't gain much weight and you will lose about 1.8 hours of
potential range for those lighter passenger
trips. But some people swear you don't need it with the tip tanks.
Enjoy the bird. I have a D35 and it is the most fun plane I have flown.
(and I have flown lots of them)
Dave Walen
-----Original Message-----
From: Mark MacKenzie <Mark.MacKenzie(at)nashville.com>
Date: Sunday, July 30, 2000 9:57 AM
Subject: Beech-List: Sound proofing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sound proofing |
Personally, I don't like fuel in the cabin, and the aux tank does cut down
on baggage capacity. Tips are good and you should have enough fuel to
outlast your God-given bladder. The gummy tar-like stuff is the original
soundproofing. Many folks remove it and replace it with an approved closed
cell foam. When I did this to my A model, I made sure the drain holes were
clear and each compartment had a clear path to the various drain holes.
Good luck in your endeavor!
Al
"Mark MacKenzie"
Subject: Beech-List: Sound proofing
> This is my first posting to the list. I have recently acquired N3190V a
1947
> "straight" 35.
> I removed the aux tank and floorboard under it and noticed that the fuel
> vent or banjo fitting has leaked a bit. The black asphalt looking sound
> proofing material appears gummy and I want to remove it for fear of
> retaining the corrosive fuel and moisture. There seems to be no sign of
> corrosion now.
> I wonder if any one knows of a spray soundproofing material or has a
> suggestion.
>
> I wonder also if I should remove the tank. I have tip tanks.
>
> Many thanks, Mark MacKenzie, Nashville, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Sound proofing |
Just to keep the record straight, closed cell foam does not retain any
moisture and is much lighter than any chemical based compound.
> I used regular automotive undercoating from NAPA on mine 2 years ago and
it
> has held up fine. Rubber based. I would recommend against putting any
kind
> of insulation or padding there as it will hold moisture
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | New Windows Utility For SkyMap II/IIIC... |
Listers,
For those of you that have had the pleasure of flying with one of the
new Skyforce/King Skymap II or IIICs, I've been working on a Windows
application that you might be interested in. Its call SkyComm and
allows you to connect up your Windows 95/98/NT/2000 PC or laptop to
the RS232 serial port on the Skymap and manage a number of its internal
datasets. Some of SkyComm's features include Screen Shot Capture,
Upload/Download of up to 4000 characters to the Skymap's internal
Notepad for something like an online checklists etc., Upload/Download of
Waypoint and Route data, and Download of the Skymap's Logger database.
There's even a built in wiring diagram for the requisite RS232 cable! I
have just finished Version 1.0 and am considering this Beta 1. I have
setup a rather extensive web site for information on the application and
for its download.
If you have a SkyMap, you're going to want this program! Best of all,
its FREE! Well, I do ask that those that like it make a voluntary
List contribution... :-)
The URL for the site is listed below and can also now be found off the
main Matronics web site as well as the specific List web pages.
Please download the program and let me know what you think! Comments
should be directed to support(at)matronics.com
SkyComm Web Site
----------------
http://www.matronics.com/skycomm/
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy |
Hey Beechers, 3716N,, 1947 Straight 35 with a question again.
Seems I have a severe nosewheel shimmy on landing when applying brakes.
,(self castering)
Any suggestions on diagnosis and repair is appreciated. Thanks, Philip.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy |
1. Check balance of the wheel. Easy to do if your bearings are good. (also
something to check) Raise the nose off the ground and spin the tire. Make
a chalk mark at the lowest place when it stops. spin again several times.
The wheel should stop randomly at different spots. If one side is heavier
then it will stop at that spot each time. The white spot on the tire (light
spot) should be next to the valve stem typically.
2. Jack the aircraft. While off the ground break the gear loose and wiggle
the joints. Bad bushings won't show up if the gear is down since they will
be under a load.
3. Try keeping a little back pressure on the wheel during rollout. Don't
hold weight on it.
4. Check tire for scalloping or uneven wear or out of round. If you don't
fly much the bottoms of the tires get "square". You can check for out of
round while the nose gear is off the ground. Get a can of WD40 or
equivalent and place the straw gently against the front of the tire. When
you turn the tire it should be equidistant from it. If out of round you
will see the distance vary.
Have fun
-----
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy |
Thanks David, I'll check it tonight - Philip.
----- Original Message -----
From: David P. Walen <davewsr(at)wilmington.net>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy
>
> 1. Check balance of the wheel. Easy to do if your bearings are good.
(also
> something to check) Raise the nose off the ground and spin the tire.
Make
> a chalk mark at the lowest place when it stops. spin again several times.
> The wheel should stop randomly at different spots. If one side is heavier
> then it will stop at that spot each time. The white spot on the tire
(light
> spot) should be next to the valve stem typically.
>
> 2. Jack the aircraft. While off the ground break the gear loose and
wiggle
> the joints. Bad bushings won't show up if the gear is down since they
will
> be under a load.
>
> 3. Try keeping a little back pressure on the wheel during rollout. Don't
> hold weight on it.
>
> 4. Check tire for scalloping or uneven wear or out of round. If you
don't
> fly much the bottoms of the tires get "square". You can check for out of
> round while the nose gear is off the ground. Get a can of WD40 or
> equivalent and place the straw gently against the front of the tire. When
> you turn the tire it should be equidistant from it. If out of round you
> will see the distance vary.
>
> Have fun
>
> -----
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-aerobatic ,
list-aviation ,
list-avionics ,
list-beech ,
list-cessna ,
list-ez ,
list-glasair ,
list-lancair ,
list-rocket ,
list-tailwind ,
list-zenith
| Subject: | Gretz Aero products web site |
Greetings Listers,
I have a web site you may be interested in looking at. All of my
products are listed there with photos and prices.
The address is http://www.gretzaero.com
I hope you like what I offer.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | paulmil(at)webtv.net (Paul Milwick) |
| Subject: | correct procedure on weighing / fuel pressure |
My mechanic, upon reweighing my e-35, removed the fuel by draining it
through the sump and then he reintroduced back into each main three
gallons (the amount represents the unuseable portion in each tank) does
this make sense? I thought that
you would only be able to sump/drain out 17 gallons useable. Raetheon
tech support sided with me but I'm not totally convinced. Anyone out
there with real world experience?
Also, for those with the ps-5c carb I had an experience with the carb
and fuel pump that I would like to share. It started with the pin
replacement in the thompson tf1900 fuel pump- I sent it out for a new
pin came back installed it back on the rear of my 225-8 (what a bear)
ran beautiful but the pump
started to leak so off it came and shipped it back out. I was told it
now needed an overhall to correct the leak (I think I was quoted around
1200 .00 ) The guy suggests That I should consider a Leer Romec 7790
instead . His reasoning was the romec has no AD's and cheaper to
overhaul . I found an overhauled one for 800.00. Put that one on(I'm
starting to hate having to spend any time at the rear of that engine)
turn the engine over and no fuel pumping out ##!!@. I have to use the
wobble pump and the electric aux pump for the engine to run at all. So
I find myself again at the rear of that God blessed engine, remove the
pump, ship it back to the company I purchased it from and a few days
later it arrives back for one last go around. this time sucess! but
something was different- I'm wasn't getting the last second surge in
the rpm upon cuttoff. So I started to think what was different about
this pump that I would be getting a lean mixture? The answer- It was
the pressure that was different ,the romec was set to 14.5 lbs and the
thompson was set to 13. Even though the bendix pressure carb manual
(thanks , Ron Davis) says inlet pressure to the carb between 9-14 + /-
1 it will remain in the lean condition even if you try to change the
idle mixture on the carb. So guess who had to get to that fuel pump
this time and back off on the screw that controls the fuel pressure (
cut the safety wire back off the screw and resafety - took 2 hours) If
you guessed me you're wrong - no way no how ! So there you have it! My
little oddessy , hope it helps someone. sorry for being so lenghty..
Signed,
Thirty-six pounds heavier
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: correct procedure on weighing / fuel pressure |
Paul,
The original spec's on the fuel tanks were 20 gallon wing tanks, with 19.5
usable. Later, this was revised to be 17 gals usable due to the fact that it
can slosh around, and away from, the fuel intake port. Soooo, the FAA says we
have to drag around a few extra gallons.
The manly way to find out your real usable fuel is to run the right tank
*completely* dry, and then find out how many gallons it takes to fill it back
up. With the left tank, you have to run it completely dry, and then note the
amount of time between running it dry and landing, estimating 3 gals/per hour is
getting pumped back into it. You could always run it on the ground until it
starves, but I never have the patience for that. You will probably find that
the tanks will hold from 19-1/2 to 21 gallons, but we are stuck with the 17 gals
usable (on paper, anyway).
The Thompson TF-1900 fuel pump is a fine device -- it just needs a bit more
attention than others. The fuel pressure is kinda tricky. My fuel pressure
gauge always reads around the low side of 10. You don't think that 40 years of
wear would make it inaccurate, do you? :-) I love the way the manufacturers
give us all these techincal specifications to the 1/10, while are gauges read
0-5-10-20. Same with the Manifold pressure. Sigh.
Ron Davis
Paul Milwick wrote:
>
>
> My mechanic, upon reweighing my e-35, removed the fuel by draining it
> through the sump and then he reintroduced back into each main three
> gallons (the amount represents the unuseable portion in each tank) does
> this make sense? I thought that
> you would only be able to sump/drain out 17 gallons useable. Raetheon
> tech support sided with me but I'm not totally convinced. Anyone out
> there with real world experience?
> Also, for those with the ps-5c carb I had an experience with the carb
> and fuel pump that I would like to share. It started with the pin
> replacement in the thompson tf1900 fuel pump- I sent it out for a new
> pin came back installed it back on the rear of my 225-8 (what a bear)
> ran beautiful but the pump
> started to leak so off it came and shipped it back out. I was told it
> now needed an overhall to correct the leak (I think I was quoted around
> 1200 .00 ) The guy suggests That I should consider a Leer Romec 7790
> instead . His reasoning was the romec has no AD's and cheaper to
> overhaul . I found an overhauled one for 800.00. Put that one on(I'm
> starting to hate having to spend any time at the rear of that engine)
> turn the engine over and no fuel pumping out ##!!@. I have to use the
> wobble pump and the electric aux pump for the engine to run at all. So
> I find myself again at the rear of that God blessed engine, remove the
> pump, ship it back to the company I purchased it from and a few days
> later it arrives back for one last go around. this time sucess! but
> something was different- I'm wasn't getting the last second surge in
> the rpm upon cuttoff. So I started to think what was different about
> this pump that I would be getting a lean mixture? The answer- It was
> the pressure that was different ,the romec was set to 14.5 lbs and the
> thompson was set to 13. Even though the bendix pressure carb manual
> (thanks , Ron Davis) says inlet pressure to the carb between 9-14 + /-
> 1 it will remain in the lean condition even if you try to change the
> idle mixture on the carb. So guess who had to get to that fuel pump
> this time and back off on the screw that controls the fuel pressure (
> cut the safety wire back off the screw and resafety - took 2 hours) If
> you guessed me you're wrong - no way no how ! So there you have it! My
> little oddessy , hope it helps someone. sorry for being so lenghty..
> Signed,
> Thirty-six pounds heavier
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Prop pitch motor ... |
Hi, gang,
Remember about a month ago when Bob Fish and I went for a Bonanza demo ride /
day trip up from John Wayne (SNA) to the old Castle Air Force Base (MER), and
the prop pitch motor conked out on me (a non-event in itself)?
Well, last week I pulled the pitch motor and dropped it off to Aero Propeller in
Hemet (HMT) so they could replace it under warranty. Unfortunately, they *just*
shipped their last overhauled spare to someone in greater need than I, so I
would have to wait while they overhauled mine. No biggie.
It turns out that when they overhauled the motor for me last December (36-odd
flight hours ago), they apparently didn't tighten an allen screw properly. The
motor gear goes into the gearbox and engages a larger idler gear. The idler
gear has a disc-like gear on the bottom to mate with the motor, and on the
spindle it has a worm gear to mesh with the 2nd 90 degree gear that goes out to
the prop's ring gear. The idler/worm gear uses a pin as its axle, and the pin
is fixed in place to the gearbox with an allen screw. The loose setscrew let
the pin slide out, the idler gear dropped out of position, jamming inside the
gearbox. Trying to run while jammed shorted out one of the armatures.
They were *very* apologetic and said they would re-overhaul my prop pitch motor
and ship it to me when its done. They had about 20 jobs stacked up in front of
me as far as I could tell from their job board so it was going to be a while --
sure am glad I didn't have plans for Oshkosh, or I'd be an unhappy camper.
Well, the motor is done now, and I ought to get it by Friday 4th, and I should
be able to "return it to service" with a couple of spare hours on Saturday 5th.
Sooo, IF I get the motor from UPS by Friday, and IF I get it installed, I'll be
up for a shakedown flight later that Saturday afternoon. Maybe to Catalina, but
a shakedown flight over water is not always the best plan. If I get a "kitchen
pass" from my wife for Sunday, I've been aching to go up to San Carlos (SQL) to
visit the Hiller Helicopter museum...
- - -
Do you-all think I should take Bob F. on another trip to doom him forever to a
life of Bonanzas?
Hey, I'll have an extra seat or two -- if there are other vict..., er,
volunteers that may want to go, drop me a line.
Ron Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy |
For the first few years I owned my Debonair, I had problems with shimmy.
Finally, I looked at it myself and found it not to be filled enough. Later,
shimmying again, I decided to overhaul it. Since I didn't know how to put
it together, I looked at the parts manual. The mechanic who previously
worked on it had forgotten how to put it together but thought he knew so
didn't check the manual. From my experience running a shop full of
mechanics I can tell you this is a very common occurrence.
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale! www.hal-kempthorne.com/N6134V.html
----- Original Message -----
From: The Five Spot <fivespot(at)erols.com>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 1:26 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy
>
> Hey Beechers, 3716N,, 1947 Straight 35 with a question again.
> Seems I have a severe nosewheel shimmy on landing when applying
brakes.
> ,(self castering)
> Any suggestions on diagnosis and repair is appreciated. Thanks, Philip.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy |
An unmodified a straight 35 is different than a Deb... no shimmy dampner...
----- Original Message -----
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2000 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy
>
> For the first few years I owned my Debonair, I had problems with shimmy.
> Finally, I looked at it myself and found it not to be filled enough.
Later,
> shimmying again, I decided to overhaul it. Since I didn't know how to put
> it together, I looked at the parts manual. The mechanic who previously
> worked on it had forgotten how to put it together but thought he knew so
> didn't check the manual. From my experience running a shop full of
> mechanics I can tell you this is a very common occurrence.
>
> Hal Kempthorne
> 2578 Elliot Court
> Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
> 408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
> RV6a N7HK 99%
> 1965 Debonair for sale! www.hal-kempthorne.com/N6134V.html
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: The Five Spot <fivespot(at)erols.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 1:26 PM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy
>
>
> >
> > Hey Beechers, 3716N,, 1947 Straight 35 with a question again.
> > Seems I have a severe nosewheel shimmy on landing when applying
> brakes.
> > ,(self castering)
> > Any suggestions on diagnosis and repair is appreciated. Thanks, Philip.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "B. Riesen" <briesenjr(at)prodigy.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 08/01/00 |
please remove me from your e-mail list. I don't need any more messages.
Thank you.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Andrew Thom" <efm(at)interfusion.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
I am looking for a pair of serviceable prop blades for a Duchess. If anyone
has a pair of FJC7666A's with one or two overhauls left and no damage
history, please let me know.
Andrew Thom (efm(at)interfusion.net.au)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Wing Spar Carrythrough Reinforcement |
Listers:
I have a 1948 Straight 35 with the steel tubing wing spar carry through.
It has installed on it a Jourdan Flanagan wing spar carry through
reinforcement kit STC No. SA222CE. Does anyone have the text of this STC
describing installation, inspection procedures, and intervals? Any help is
greatly appreciated.
Randy L. Thwing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Cognata" <mcognata(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Opinions? - Electrical/ignition issues |
Hello all:
I have a B35. It has the old style OFF-BATT-L-R-BOTH type ignition switch.
The RH mag has become intermittently hot (really to tell the truth, it's hot
88.95% of the time). I've traced the problem to the ignition switch. My
A&P says that Beech has a "switch upgrade", $150, that attaches to the shaft
of the current ignition switch, has better contacts and will 'fix' the
problem. I'd rather *not* go this route.
Thing is, I would like to change the ignition switch to be OFF-L-R-BOTH,
and also alleviate the problem where my electrical power cuts out to the
radios when switching between mags. This is a major headache I'd like to
get rid of.
What are your suggestions for the best way to accomplish this? I can think
of a couple. Any specific, simple, safe, wiring changes to avoid the mag
switch cutting out the radio power?? Switch changes recommended?
Preferably, that will fit with little or no modification to the panel...
Thanks in advance!
Regards,
Matt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy |
Make sure you have enough air pressure in the tire so it rides on the center
of the tread. With low pressure, the tire tends to hunt from side to side.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com>
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 4:16 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy
>
> Thanks David, I'll check it tonight - Philip.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David P. Walen <davewsr(at)wilmington.net>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 4:44 PM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List:nosewheel shimmy
>
>
>
> >
> > 1. Check balance of the wheel. Easy to do if your bearings are good.
> (also
> > something to check) Raise the nose off the ground and spin the tire.
> Make
> > a chalk mark at the lowest place when it stops. spin again several
times.
> > The wheel should stop randomly at different spots. If one side is
heavier
> > then it will stop at that spot each time. The white spot on the tire
> (light
> > spot) should be next to the valve stem typically.
> >
> > 2. Jack the aircraft. While off the ground break the gear loose and
> wiggle
> > the joints. Bad bushings won't show up if the gear is down since they
> will
> > be under a load.
> >
> > 3. Try keeping a little back pressure on the wheel during rollout.
Don't
> > hold weight on it.
> >
> > 4. Check tire for scalloping or uneven wear or out of round. If you
> don't
> > fly much the bottoms of the tires get "square". You can check for out
of
> > round while the nose gear is off the ground. Get a can of WD40 or
> > equivalent and place the straw gently against the front of the tire.
When
> > you turn the tire it should be equidistant from it. If out of round you
> > will see the distance vary.
> >
> > Have fun
> >
> > -----
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Brian J. Henry" <bhenry(at)saber.net> |
| Subject: | new classic web page?? |
What is the web address for the new "classic" bonanza web
page? I forgot to bookmark it.
Thanks,
Brian Henry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: new classic web page?? |
www.aspenleaf.com/bonanza There's also another one www.vintagebonanza.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian J. Henry" <bhenry(at)saber.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2000 2:44 AM
Subject: Beech-List: new classic web page??
>
> What is the web address for the new "classic" bonanza web
> page? I forgot to bookmark it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian Henry
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | New repair source ... |
Everyone,
Got my EAA "Sport Aviation" a few days ago, and there's a new advertiser I
haven't seen before in there. On page 5, there's: Consolidated Fuel Systems
1400 East Blvd. South
Montgomery, AL 36116
334-286-8551
They advertise that they overhaul carburetors, fuel servos, fuel pumps, TCM fuel
systems, etc. The photos in the ad show a Bendix RSA-series fuel injector, and
a
Thompson TF-1900 fuel pump, and others. There's a photo of a carburetor testing
machine which is straight out of the Bendix overhaul manual. Sounds like we may
have a new source for some Bendix carburetor and Thompson fuel pump parts ...
Haven't called them yet to find out pricing, but it is refreshing to know that
there's a new choice in town.
Ron Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
Ron:
I need to do the fuel pump service bulletin and was going to call for
pin & gaskets this morning so your post is very timely. I called the
Alabama number and when I requested parts for Thompson fuel pumps I was
given a toll free number: 877-359-5355, and told that "that is all taken
care of by our Dallas office". I called that number and again requested
Thompson fuel pump parts and was then told "we only handle Romec pumps,
sorry". I have been told by other Bonz owners that a kit containing a
replacement pin and gaskets necessary to perform the service bullitin is
available as a kit, I am in contact with Cutter Aviation, a Beechcraft
dealer in Phoenix, they don't seem to know about a kit, but are suppossedly
looking up the necessary parts to do the job. If anyone can advise me ofan
alternate source, it would be appreciated.
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, 1948 Straight 35, D-1373
>
> Everyone,
>
> Got my EAA "Sport Aviation" a few days ago, and there's a new advertiser I
> haven't seen before in there. On page 5, there's: Consolidated Fuel
Systems
> 1400 East Blvd. South
> Montgomery, AL 36116
> 334-286-8551
>
> They advertise that they overhaul carburetors, fuel servos, fuel pumps,
TCM fuel
> systems, etc. The photos in the ad show a Bendix RSA-series fuel injector,
and a
> Thompson TF-1900 fuel pump, and others. There's a photo of a carburetor
testing
> machine which is straight out of the Bendix overhaul manual. Sounds like
we may
> have a new source for some Bendix carburetor and Thompson fuel pump parts
...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
OK guys here's the deal. The Thompson Fuel pump kits are almost non
existent. I am going to give you a source for these kits. We need to pull
together and collectively bargain for the manufacturer to produce another
batch of these kits. Here is my URL for this
http://www.vintagebonanza.com/Thompson_fuel_pump_service_and_parts.htm
Please let them know that we all want and need there items. It may take a
order of 50 to 100 before we can get these produced. Can we get that many
orders together at one time ? I don't mind negotiating this deal if enough
of you are interested.
On the WEB page above is what is contained in the kit. Click on the photos
to see a larger picture.
The guys at Aircraft Systems 5187 Falcon Road Rockford, IL 61109 Ph
815-399-0225 are great to work with. They can help us guys with the older
Bonanza's greatly buy servicing our accessories on the E series engines.
Bryan
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy L. Thwing <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 10:43 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: New repair source ...
>
> Ron:
> I need to do the fuel pump service bulletin and was going to call for
> pin & gaskets this morning so your post is very timely. I called the
> Alabama number and when I requested parts for Thompson fuel pumps I was
> given a toll free number: 877-359-5355, and told that "that is all taken
> care of by our Dallas office". I called that number and again requested
> Thompson fuel pump parts and was then told "we only handle Romec pumps,
> sorry". I have been told by other Bonz owners that a kit containing a
> replacement pin and gaskets necessary to perform the service bullitin is
> available as a kit, I am in contact with Cutter Aviation, a Beechcraft
> dealer in Phoenix, they don't seem to know about a kit, but are
suppossedly
> looking up the necessary parts to do the job. If anyone can advise me
ofan
> alternate source, it would be appreciated.
> Regards,
> Randy L. Thwing, 1948 Straight 35, D-1373
>
>
> >
> > Everyone,
> >
> > Got my EAA "Sport Aviation" a few days ago, and there's a new advertiser
I
> > haven't seen before in there. On page 5, there's: Consolidated Fuel
> Systems
> > 1400 East Blvd. South
> > Montgomery, AL 36116
> > 334-286-8551
> >
> > They advertise that they overhaul carburetors, fuel servos, fuel pumps,
> TCM fuel
> > systems, etc. The photos in the ad show a Bendix RSA-series fuel
injector,
> and a
> > Thompson TF-1900 fuel pump, and others. There's a photo of a carburetor
> testing
> > machine which is straight out of the Bendix overhaul manual. Sounds
like
> we may
> > have a new source for some Bendix carburetor and Thompson fuel pump
parts
> ...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Weekend trip ... |
Everyone,
Last Sunday 13th, Robert Fish and I flew from John Wayne up to Byron (C83) as an
enjoyable flight, and to lookie-loo at an E35 Bonanza that Mike Mullahey
currently has for sale.
The flight up was, er, warm (around 85 degrees below 4,500 ft), but the swamp
cooler air conditioner made it quite pleasant. I had never thought to check its
effectiveness before by shutting off the firewall cutoff before, so we tried
it. In theory, this would close off any incoming fresh (warm) air into the
cabin, leaving only the chilled swamp cooler air to do its work. No joy. Seems
like enough warm air seeps through to make the front seat footwell very warm
indeed. The swamp cooler's overhead vents don't blow air that far forward and
downward. Shucks. Open those vents back up. Anyway, it seems to reduce the
cabin temp by around 10 degrees. Better than nothing. I'm considering
reworking the overhead grille to allow me to more effectively direct the cool
air.
The trip took about 2-1/2 hours up (about 350 miles), met Mike next to the gas
pumps, and went over to view his little beauty.
Its a keeper. Nice paint (okay, so there were a few bubbles of corrosion here
and there), V35 3rd window, nice cloth interior, very nice IFR panel, right-side
radio stack panel conversion, Brittain A/P, and other goodies. M-tips, mid-time
engine, and I can't remember what else it had, but it looked to me like the new
owner wouldn't have to fix a thing -- just hop in and go. Of course, I didn't
pore over the logs, or AD compliance, do a compression test or all that, but it
sure did have curb appeal.
Bob was soaking it all in -- all the little things that Mike and I were telling
him that you need to look for in Bonanzas, what to expect, and so on. He's
getting a free education of what the Bonanza Service Clinic looks for.
Mike treated us to a nice lunch and some stories about his airline days with
Eastern. Bob started felling like he's really making the right choice going with
a Bonanza, and probably would've cut a deposit check on the spot if he didn't
have to answer to his betteer half first. (Boy, do I know how that can be.)
Sure wish we had more time, but the shadows were starting to lengthen, and we
needed to get back to Southern California.
Another uneventful and speedy trip back to John Wayne. Probably should've let
him fly it more, but what's the point? It was all smooth and level all the way
in. Kept the autopilot on practially the whole time up until reaching SNA's
pattern. Showed Bob the 'ol side slip method that I use so often at John Wayne
to bleed off airspeed and slow the slippery little plane down. I really think
he was surprised that 140 kts can turn into 110 kts so painlessly.
Folks, I think we got 'im hooked on Bonanzas. Now all we have to do is reel him
in. He already knows about a CFI at John Wayne that will check him out in a
Bonanza, so he's primed and ready to go.
I won't be able to keep the heat turned up on him next weekend, so perhaps
someone here on the list can pick up the torch and show Bob some more reasons to
get a Bonanza.
Ron Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
BG,
Yeah, I think I called these guys about a month or so ago, and he said they were
all out of both the pin replacement kits and the overhaul kits.
I am *seriously* considering using the shank of a drill bit (3/8" I think it
is), and make my own gasket -- maybe the 'ol "Aviation Form-A-Gasket," cork, or
sheet rubber. At this point, its silly for my plane to be grounded because of
a
sliver of steel.
I can certainly do it under the "owner produced parts" clause, but I'd rather
use a genuine kit if they are available.
I believe the pin replacement kit from Aircraft Systems (not a full overhaul
kit) was $40 apiece. As long as the price is within 100% of this figure, count
me in, and I'll stock up on a few kits for spares.
Ron Davis
BG Wells wrote:
>
>
> OK guys here's the deal. The Thompson Fuel pump kits are almost non
> existent. I am going to give you a source for these kits. We need to pull
> together and collectively bargain for the manufacturer to produce another
> batch of these kits. Here is my URL for this
> http://www.vintagebonanza.com/Thompson_fuel_pump_service_and_parts.htm
>
> Please let them know that we all want and need there items. It may take a
> order of 50 to 100 before we can get these produced. Can we get that many
> orders together at one time ? I don't mind negotiating this deal if enough
> of you are interested.
>
> On the WEB page above is what is contained in the kit. Click on the photos
> to see a larger picture.
> The guys at Aircraft Systems 5187 Falcon Road Rockford, IL 61109 Ph
> 815-399-0225 are great to work with. They can help us guys with the older
> Bonanza's greatly buy servicing our accessories on the E series engines.
>
> Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Weekend trip ... |
Good job Ron! Keep the interest in the old girls alive.
One of the things I put into the A model before I sold the project was an
NACA scoop on the passenger side. Went directly via scat hose to a fitting
on the inside of the panel. On the outside (the side you see) was a Wemac
style ball (from a Bonanza overhead) with an on/off control valve. The NACA
scoop was flush riveted and attached with pro-seal so the outside of the
fuse looked great! Since I didn't fly this baby I couldn't tell you how
well it worked, but it seems that it would be a shoe-in. I'm sure that some
tweaking is needed to be done, perhaps with another air and drain valve in
line, but I'll bet this is going to be a great item. My IA didn't have a
problem at all and signed it as a logbook entry. His reasoning was the
monster avionics cooling scoops that some folks bolt on, but I think it was
stretching it, especially with a FSDO that's under fire from Miss Jane. The
NACA scoop assembly looked remarkably similar to what Van's Aircraft sells
for the RV's at a price of $27.00! I think they call it a cooling kit, but
I really can't be sure.
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
>
> Last Sunday 13th, Robert Fish and I flew from John Wayne up to Byron (C83)
as an
> enjoyable flight, and to lookie-loo at an E35 Bonanza that Mike Mullahey
> currently has for sale.
>
> The flight up was, er, warm (around 85 degrees below 4,500 ft), but the
swamp
> cooler air conditioner made it quite pleasant. I had never thought to
check its
> effectiveness before by shutting off the firewall cutoff before, so we
tried
> it. In theory, this would close off any incoming fresh (warm) air into
the
> cabin, leaving only the chilled swamp cooler air to do its work. No joy.
Seems
> like enough warm air seeps through to make the front seat footwell very
warm
> indeed. The swamp cooler's overhead vents don't blow air that far forward
and
> downward. Shucks. Open those vents back up. Anyway, it seems to reduce
the
> cabin temp by around 10 degrees. Better than nothing. I'm considering
> reworking the overhead grille to allow me to more effectively direct the
cool
> air.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
One thing that was tossed out one day was the use of a needle bearing. The
type used on universal joints and such. Seems they would sure be hard
enough! Just a thought. A good bearing shop could probably match one up
pretty quickly. And as long as there's some $ speculation in it, I'd be
willing to go for 10.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 6:23 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: New repair source ...
>
> BG,
>
> Yeah, I think I called these guys about a month or so ago, and he said
they were
> all out of both the pin replacement kits and the overhaul kits.
>
> I am *seriously* considering using the shank of a drill bit (3/8" I think
it
> is), and make my own gasket -- maybe the 'ol "Aviation Form-A-Gasket,"
cork, or
> sheet rubber. At this point, its silly for my plane to be grounded
because of a
> sliver of steel.
>
> I can certainly do it under the "owner produced parts" clause, but I'd
rather
> use a genuine kit if they are available.
>
> I believe the pin replacement kit from Aircraft Systems (not a full
overhaul
> kit) was $40 apiece. As long as the price is within 100% of this figure,
count
> me in, and I'll stock up on a few kits for spares.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
Hello,
I have been reading your conversations concerning the TF1900 fuel pump and I
just had mine overhauled and checked out in Dallas, TX by:
J & G Carburetor, Inc.
2735 Brookfield, P.O box 35861
Dallas, TX 75235
(214) 350-2032 FAX (214) 350-7868
FAA Repair Station UJIR534K
They also went through both mags and my PS5C carb.. The work was fast,
efficient and very reasonable. Total cost came to $1580.
Stew Cochran N2032D C35
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
Here's my story from today's search for the fuel pump pin kit. I
received a faxed response from Cutter Aviation in Phoenix that they
supposedly had a kit for the pin inspection. This kit has a list that it
contains the pin, the snap ring, two gaskets, (the photo on the BG suggested
site shows only one gasket, the text of the SB calls for two) and 4 AN lock
washers. Their price was only $300.00. After I came to and the blindness
left, I called RAPID, the Beech parts system and asked them for the parts.
Their system for both the kit and individual parts showed no longer
available, and no prices were listed. I then went to Jason Simpson's site
where he states that a company called Agra-tech? (I left all my info at my
plant so I'm working from my dull memory) was working to make PMA'd TF-1900
parts. I went to their site, found phone numbers, and called both of their
locations; CA and OH. Both locations told me they didn't think they were
going to do this. I pressed for an accurate answer, was given a name to
contact who would know, but he had left their Cleveland office for the day.
I left a request with his Secretary to please ask him the question: Are they
going to make parts for TF-1900 pumps or not? She assured me he will phone
or fax me tomorrow with a definite answer, we'll see. I called a fellow
local (loco?) Bonz (A35) owner, Art Drake, to ask for any advice. He had
had his pump rebuilt a few years ago, found his paperwork, and told me to
call Aviation or Aircraft Components (I have the name & no. at work) in
Oklahoma. I did and they had the parts, loose, not in a kit. The pin was
$22.XX, each of the two gaskets was just under 5.00, they told me to reuse
the snap ring (If I removed it carefully, but hey I'm a Bonanza owner, I do
everything carefully! Yeah.) they do have the snap rings for 6.XX if you
need one. They also said to reuse the lock washers, which are a common? AN
type, should be able to find them if I drop one in the accessory case. So
the parts should be on the way. If anyone else is interested, I will post
the correct name & numbers from the plant tomorrow.
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35
Personal to Ron Davis: 3/8" sounds awful big for a drive pin. (remember,
you told me your engine leaks 3/4 of a cup of oil an hour?) Please be
careful substituting parts. From what I have learned lately, the pin is the
part one would want to have wear, rather than the very expensive rotor shaft
into which it is mounted. If the pin material (say a roller bearing or
drill shank) was very much harder (68RC+?) than the shaft, the expensive
part would always wear first. Maybe ideal would be a very strong, tough pin
which is slightly softer than the shaft material so the pin is always the
wear part. Side note, the SB says the rotor shaft has two pin holes so that
if one wears beyond limits, the second is available for use. That was the
only good thing I heard today regarding this design. Is there really a
Romec pump you can sub for the Thompson? Another thought, drill bits are
through hardened and very brittle, they are NOT the thing to consider here,
they are hard, not tough! Tough is like a cold chisel that doesn't shatter
when you strike it with a hammer, a drill bit will!
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Davis <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:23 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: New repair source ...
>
> BG,
>
> Yeah, I think I called these guys about a month or so ago, and he said
they were
> all out of both the pin replacement kits and the overhaul kits.
>
> I am *seriously* considering using the shank of a drill bit (3/8" I think
it
> is), and make my own gasket -- maybe the 'ol "Aviation Form-A-Gasket,"
cork, or
> sheet rubber. At this point, its silly for my plane to be grounded
because of a
> sliver of steel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
Am I reading this correctly, the price included overhauling of the
carburetor as well as the Thompson fuel pump ?
----- Original Message -----
From: <STEWBC(at)Aol.com>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: New repair source ...
>
> Hello,
> I have been reading your conversations concerning the TF1900 fuel pump and
I
> just had mine overhauled and checked out in Dallas, TX by:
> J & G Carburetor, Inc.
> 2735 Brookfield, P.O box 35861
> Dallas, TX 75235
> (214) 350-2032 FAX (214) 350-7868
> FAA Repair Station UJIR534K
> They also went through both mags and my PS5C carb.. The work was fast,
> efficient and very reasonable. Total cost came to $1580.
> Stew Cochran N2032D C35
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
You read it right! The work was done in March of this year at the
recommendation of J's Aircraft in Dallas, they reworked an E185-11 (205 HP)
for me. Both of these companies know what they are doing with the older
equipment and have a good supply of parts. The thing that impressed me was
how meticulous and communicative they were.
Stew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
Bryan:
Did Aircraft Systems really make these parts or did they just sell them?
We need to determine who is the manufacturer.
Randy
>
> Please let them know that we all want and need there items. It may take a
> order of 50 to 100 before we can get these produced. Can we get that many
> orders together at one time ? I don't mind negotiating this deal if enough
> of you are interested.
>
> On the WEB page above is what is contained in the kit. Click on the photos
> to see a larger picture.
> The guys at Aircraft Systems 5187 Falcon Road Rockford, IL 61109 Ph
>
> Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
Randy, your right I need to add the other gasket in the picture, it's the
pump to accessory case mounting gasket. Also thank you for providing
additional resource on the Thompson parts.
Here is a link to the SB's
http://www.vintagebonanza.com/Thompson_SB_new_page_1.htm
Bryan
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy L. Thwing <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: New repair source ...
>
> Here's my story from today's search for the fuel pump pin kit. I
> received a faxed response from Cutter Aviation in Phoenix that they
> supposedly had a kit for the pin inspection. This kit has a list that it
> contains the pin, the snap ring, two gaskets, (the photo on the BG
suggested
> site shows only one gasket, the text of the SB calls for two) and 4 AN
lock
> washers. Their price was only $300.00. After I came to and the blindness
> left, I called RAPID, the Beech parts system and asked them for the parts.
> Their system for both the kit and individual parts showed no longer
> available, and no prices were listed. I then went to Jason Simpson's site
> where he states that a company called Agra-tech? (I left all my info at my
> plant so I'm working from my dull memory) was working to make PMA'd
TF-1900
> parts. I went to their site, found phone numbers, and called both of
their
> locations; CA and OH. Both locations told me they didn't think they were
> going to do this. I pressed for an accurate answer, was given a name to
> contact who would know, but he had left their Cleveland office for the
day.
> I left a request with his Secretary to please ask him the question: Are
they
> going to make parts for TF-1900 pumps or not? She assured me he will
phone
> or fax me tomorrow with a definite answer, we'll see. I called a fellow
> local (loco?) Bonz (A35) owner, Art Drake, to ask for any advice. He had
> had his pump rebuilt a few years ago, found his paperwork, and told me to
> call Aviation or Aircraft Components (I have the name & no. at work) in
> Oklahoma. I did and they had the parts, loose, not in a kit. The pin was
> $22.XX, each of the two gaskets was just under 5.00, they told me to reuse
> the snap ring (If I removed it carefully, but hey I'm a Bonanza owner, I
do
> everything carefully! Yeah.) they do have the snap rings for 6.XX if you
> need one. They also said to reuse the lock washers, which are a common?
AN
> type, should be able to find them if I drop one in the accessory case. So
> the parts should be on the way. If anyone else is interested, I will post
> the correct name & numbers from the plant tomorrow.
> Regards,
> Randy L. Thwing, Straight 35
>
> Personal to Ron Davis: 3/8" sounds awful big for a drive pin. (remember,
> you told me your engine leaks 3/4 of a cup of oil an hour?) Please be
> careful substituting parts. From what I have learned lately, the pin is
the
> part one would want to have wear, rather than the very expensive rotor
shaft
> into which it is mounted. If the pin material (say a roller bearing or
> drill shank) was very much harder (68RC+?) than the shaft, the expensive
> part would always wear first. Maybe ideal would be a very strong, tough
pin
> which is slightly softer than the shaft material so the pin is always the
> wear part. Side note, the SB says the rotor shaft has two pin holes so
that
> if one wears beyond limits, the second is available for use. That was the
> only good thing I heard today regarding this design. Is there really a
> Romec pump you can sub for the Thompson? Another thought, drill bits are
> through hardened and very brittle, they are NOT the thing to consider
here,
> they are hard, not tough! Tough is like a cold chisel that doesn't
shatter
> when you strike it with a hammer, a drill bit will!
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron Davis <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 4:23 PM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List: New repair source ...
>
>
> >
> > BG,
> >
> > Yeah, I think I called these guys about a month or so ago, and he said
> they were
> > all out of both the pin replacement kits and the overhaul kits.
> >
> > I am *seriously* considering using the shank of a drill bit (3/8" I
think
> it
> > is), and make my own gasket -- maybe the 'ol "Aviation Form-A-Gasket,"
> cork, or
> > sheet rubber. At this point, its silly for my plane to be grounded
> because of a
> > sliver of steel.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
Randy, these were actual Thompson parts contained in a sealed bag. Here are
the actual photo's
http://www.vintagebonanza.com/images/Thompson_pump_kit_contents.JPG
http://www.vintagebonanza.com/images/wpe03906.gif
The parts were in the sealed brown packet with the white content slip shown.
The price was about $40 plus tax and shipping. Aircraft Systems mentioned
that there supplier didn't think (TRW)Thompson was going to produce many
more. I thought that if several of us got together we could come up with a
order of quantity that would justify TRW to produce another run of kits.
So to answer your question, no Aircraft Systems didn't manufacture these
parts, I hope I didn't imply that from the earlier email.
From my talks with Aircraft Systems, I got the impression that the kits came
from their supplier (unmentioned by name) who got them from TRW. I didn't
ask Aircraft Systems to reveal who their wholesale supplier/distributor was
who obtained them from TRW.
Bryan
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy L. Thwing <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: New repair source ...
>
> Bryan:
> Did Aircraft Systems really make these parts or did they just sell
them?
> We need to determine who is the manufacturer.
> Randy
>
> >
> > Please let them know that we all want and need there items. It may take
a
> > order of 50 to 100 before we can get these produced. Can we get that
many
> > orders together at one time ? I don't mind negotiating this deal if
enough
> > of you are interested.
> >
> > On the WEB page above is what is contained in the kit. Click on the
photos
> > to see a larger picture.
> > The guys at Aircraft Systems 5187 Falcon Road Rockford, IL 61109 Ph
>
> >
> > Bryan
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
That's a fabulous price. Seems I paid 400 for the pump and 1400 for the
carb just three years ago.
----- Original Message -----
From: "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 10:45 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: New repair source ...
>
> Am I reading this correctly, the price included overhauling of the
> carburetor as well as the Thompson fuel pump ?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <STEWBC(at)Aol.com>
> To:
> Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 8:06 PM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List: New repair source ...
>
>
> >
> > Hello,
> > I have been reading your conversations concerning the TF1900 fuel pump
and
> I
> > just had mine overhauled and checked out in Dallas, TX by:
> > J & G Carburetor, Inc.
> > 2735 Brookfield, P.O box 35861
> > Dallas, TX 75235
> > (214) 350-2032 FAX (214) 350-7868
> > FAA Repair Station UJIR534K
> > They also went through both mags and my PS5C carb.. The work was fast,
> > efficient and very reasonable. Total cost came to $1580.
> > Stew Cochran N2032D C35
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
J's is the engine builder of choice around these parts. With prices so
cheap, I feel like buying another classic so I can have the work done.
----- Original Message -----
From: <STEWBC(at)Aol.com>
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2000 10:59 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: New repair source ...
>
> You read it right! The work was done in March of this year at the
> recommendation of J's Aircraft in Dallas, they reworked an E185-11 (205
HP)
> for me. Both of these companies know what they are doing with the older
> equipment and have a good supply of parts. The thing that impressed me
was
> how meticulous and communicative they were.
> Stew
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lorne Schmitz <central.elec(at)sk.sympatico.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Thompson Pumps Parts |
Randy L.Thwing,
I wonder if you would mind posting the address and phone number for the
individual parts for the Thompson Fuel Pump repair parts that you contacted.
Lorne Schmitz B35
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Thompson Pumps Parts |
Please remember I have not yet received the parts I have ordered
or performed this SB, this is what I have learned seeking the parts.
Inspection kit P/N 216835 contains the parts required for pin inspection.
This number MAY have been superseeded to part no. 207910A, which MAY have
been superseeded to part no. 207910. These superseeded numbers may only be
in the Beech parts system.
The kit (216835) consists of:
TF1991 1ea. Drive Pin
TF1126 1ea. Seal Spring Retainer Snap Ring
TF1160 1ea. Mounting Flange Gasket
TF1195 1ea. Mounting gasket
TX90799-51
(AN936C8) 4ea. Lock Washer.
TF1903 1ea. Rotor, is not included in the kit
I ordered my parts from: Aircraft Accessories in Oklahoma at 800-255-9924.
I ordered the drive pin @ 22.86
One gasket @ 4.65
One gasket @ 4.96
The SB contains all part no's, pictures and instructions and apparently can
be downloaded from sites mentioned in other posts.
They told me I could reuse the snap ring and the lock washers. If snap ring
was needed, they had it for 6.95.
Although the SB calls for "inspection" the drive pin is suppossed to be
replaced at each "inspection"
Hope this helps,
Randy L. Thwing, 1948 Straight 35
>
> Randy L.Thwing,
>
> I wonder if you would mind posting the address and phone number for the
> individual parts for the Thompson Fuel Pump repair parts that you
contacted.
>
> Lorne Schmitz B35
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
We need to find out who exactly is the manufacturer. Is it still TRW, or
have they sold the rights to someone else? We need to approach the true
manufacturer,
Randy L. Thwing
Please let them know that we all want and need there items. It may take
> a
> > > order of 50 to 100 before we can get these produced. Can we get that
> many
> > > orders together at one time ? I don't mind negotiating this deal if
> enough
> > > of you are interested.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bruce Bell" <rv4bell(at)door.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Thompson Pumps Parts |
Many years ago this kit was free! Either from Beech or Thompson Pumps. Not
that it is of any help now.
Bruce Bell
Bonanza A35 Ser# 1730
Owned 37 years
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2000 11:06 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Re: Thompson Pumps Parts
>
> Please remember I have not yet received the parts I have ordered
> or performed this SB, this is what I have learned seeking the parts.
>
> Inspection kit P/N 216835 contains the parts required for pin inspection.
> This number MAY have been superseeded to part no. 207910A, which MAY have
> been superseeded to part no. 207910. These superseeded numbers may only
be
> in the Beech parts system.
>
> The kit (216835) consists of:
> TF1991 1ea. Drive Pin
> TF1126 1ea. Seal Spring Retainer Snap Ring
> TF1160 1ea. Mounting Flange Gasket
> TF1195 1ea. Mounting gasket
> TX90799-51
> (AN936C8) 4ea. Lock Washer.
>
> TF1903 1ea. Rotor, is not included in the kit
>
> I ordered my parts from: Aircraft Accessories in Oklahoma at
800-255-9924.
> I ordered the drive pin @ 22.86
> One gasket @ 4.65
> One gasket @ 4.96
>
> The SB contains all part no's, pictures and instructions and apparently
can
> be downloaded from sites mentioned in other posts.
>
> They told me I could reuse the snap ring and the lock washers. If snap
ring
> was needed, they had it for 6.95.
>
> Although the SB calls for "inspection" the drive pin is suppossed to be
> replaced at each "inspection"
>
> Hope this helps,
> Randy L. Thwing, 1948 Straight 35
>
>
>
> >
> > Randy L.Thwing,
> >
> > I wonder if you would mind posting the address and phone number for the
> > individual parts for the Thompson Fuel Pump repair parts that you
> contacted.
> >
> > Lorne Schmitz B35
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: New repair source ... |
A small point, please correct me if I have this wrong, but this Thompson
TF-1900 drive pin inspection is a recommended service bullitin, there is no
AD regarding this, so although it's probably a real good idea to comply, it
is neither required nor grounding, unless the ship is in commercial use.
Randy L. Thwing, 1948 Straight 35
At this point, its silly for my plane to be grounded because of a
> sliver of steel.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
"Vtail Enthusiasts"
Well I did it again! N9905D. She'll be looking as good as new in no time!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Did It Again |
Congrats, Al!
So, is this an airworthy machine we will see in San Antone, or is this another
"project-that-would-not-die" plane?
Anyway, good luck all over again.
Ron Davis
A J DeMarzo wrote:
>
>
> Well I did it again! N9905D. She'll be looking as good as new in no time!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Did It Again |
Up and flying already! But never as clean as I'd like. I may just get down
to SA to see you.
AL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Did It Again
>
> Congrats, Al!
>
> So, is this an airworthy machine we will see in San Antone, or is this
another
> "project-that-would-not-die" plane?
>
> Anyway, good luck all over again.
>
> Ron Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Did It Again |
Congratulations, Al! - put some pics on line, -Philip Cohen 3716N
----- Original Message -----
From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 4:26 PM
Subject: Beech-List: Did It Again
>
> Well I did it again! N9905D. She'll be looking as good as new in no time!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Did It Again |
http://www.aso.com/ad/42715
Thanks Phil!
From: "The Five Spot" <fivespot(at)erols.com>
Re: Beech-List: Did It Again
>
> Congratulations, Al! - put some pics on line, -Philip Cohen 3716N
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: A J DeMarzo <aerome(at)ev1.net>
> To: Beech List ; Vtail Enthusiasts
>
> Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 4:26 PM
> Subject: Beech-List: Did It Again
>
>
> >
> > Well I did it again! N9905D. She'll be looking as good as new in no
time!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Lonnie Gillespie" <lonelg(at)ionet.net> |
REMOVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Did It Again |
What are good sources for Beech parts - in other words lower cost suppliers
of real Beech items?
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Gaisford" <gaisford(at)goldrush.com> |
| Subject: | Fuel System Rebuilder |
I just had a Thompson TF1900 pump repaired at the address listed below. He
put a kit #207901C ($385.) and a Spline Drive Coupler #1920 ($137.) along
with $200. labor for a total of $731.79 w/frt.
He also works on PS5C carbs. The quote for O/H was $1325. If you request
"check and repair", Dave won't automatically O/H and yellow tag. He checked
my PS5C and flow checked it for $70.
Accessory Connection FAA Repair Station #OOAR469L
4903 Diggins Trail
P.O. Box 886
Somerset, Ca. 95684
(530) 662-1650
On another note:
Does anyone have a oil temp gauge complete for a D35?
Thanks,
Mike
gaisford(at)goldrush.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Rebuilder |
I may have the gauge. Let me check tomorrow!
AL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Gaisford" <gaisford(at)goldrush.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 19, 2000 11:13 PM
Subject: Beech-List: Fuel System Rebuilder
>
> I just had a Thompson TF1900 pump repaired at the address listed below.
He
> put a kit #207901C ($385.) and a Spline Drive Coupler #1920 ($137.) along
> with $200. labor for a total of $731.79 w/frt.
> He also works on PS5C carbs. The quote for O/H was $1325. If you request
> "check and repair", Dave won't automatically O/H and yellow tag. He
checked
> my PS5C and flow checked it for $70.
> Accessory Connection FAA Repair Station #OOAR469L
> 4903 Diggins Trail
> P.O. Box 886
> Somerset, Ca. 95684
> (530) 662-1650
>
> On another note:
> Does anyone have a oil temp gauge complete for a D35?
> Thanks,
> Mike
> gaisford(at)goldrush.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Rebuilder |
Michael,
I've been looking for an oil temp gauge for my E35 for 4 years, now.
Its the "smoke" colored face, 35-324314. I gave up trying to find an exact
match, and bought an oil temp gauge which came from a straight-35 (green face),
and it wasn't operational. Sent it out to Keystone Instrument Repair in Lock
Haven, PA, and for the tiny sum of $175.00, repaired it so it works like new.
They even re-silk screened the face to try and match the E35's "smoke" color,
but they didn't quite match it. Oh, well.
You may be able to go the same route and get *any* of the bourdon-tube style
gauges, and get them repaired, but you will be a long time searching.
- - -
Note: This gauge's sensor fits to the back of the oil screen, so it takes a bit
of punishment and possible damage every time you check the oil screen -- and you
do that every 25 hours, right? Good reason to get the spin-on oil filter
adapter from Lew Gage. You never have to touch the oil temp probe again.
- - -
The book "Colvin's Clinic" mentioned that there was a Piper gauge that was a
bourdon tube unit, and with a bit of trimming, was supposed to fit in the
Beech's instrument cluster. I believe that this was the oil temp gauge that was
in my plane when I bought it. The previous mechanic used what looked like
*modeling clay* around the gauge to fit in in the cluster mount bracket. I
guess he didn't want to take the time to make a real mounting bracket. These
are also supposed to be out of production, but you may have an easier time of
finding them.
Ron Davis
Michael Gaisford wrote:
>
>
> I just had a Thompson TF1900 pump repaired at the address listed below. He
> put a kit #207901C ($385.) and a Spline Drive Coupler #1920 ($137.) along
> with $200. labor for a total of $731.79 w/frt.
> He also works on PS5C carbs. The quote for O/H was $1325. If you request
> "check and repair", Dave won't automatically O/H and yellow tag. He checked
> my PS5C and flow checked it for $70.
> Accessory Connection FAA Repair Station #OOAR469L
> 4903 Diggins Trail
> P.O. Box 886
> Somerset, Ca. 95684
> (530) 662-1650
>
> On another note:
> Does anyone have a oil temp gauge complete for a D35?
> Thanks,
> Mike
> gaisford(at)goldrush.com
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel System Rebuilder |
Years ago, my bourdon tube temp gauge gave up the ghost, and I replaced it
with a later model Beech electric gauge... only had to change (read: make
special) spacers in the face of the gauge to get it to fit into my B35
instrument cluster since the electric is thicker than the bourdon... No more
problems at oils change time, it's been about 20 yrs now..
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Davis <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2000 8:34 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Fuel System Rebuilder
>
> Michael,
>
> I've been looking for an oil temp gauge for my E35 for 4 years, now.
> Its the "smoke" colored face, 35-324314. I gave up trying to find an
exact
> match, and bought an oil temp gauge which came from a straight-35 (green
face),
> and it wasn't operational. Sent it out to Keystone Instrument Repair in
Lock
> Haven, PA, and for the tiny sum of $175.00, repaired it so it works like
new.
> They even re-silk screened the face to try and match the E35's "smoke"
color,
> but they didn't quite match it. Oh, well.
>
> You may be able to go the same route and get *any* of the bourdon-tube
style
> gauges, and get them repaired, but you will be a long time searching.
>
> - - -
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Avi Elbachri <avi1(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | bonanza tip tanks |
for sale bonanza 15gal tip tanks, STC, and paper works, $3500.-
call 415-740-5369
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Leonejay(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: bonanza tip tanks |
AVI are these your tip tanks for sale. Why dont you try to sell the wings.
Jay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | larry laporte <llapo(at)dmv.com> |
please un-subscribe to all mail list thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO <david.foelker(at)columbus.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RE: Czech-List: Unsubscribe |
Please unsubscribe me from Czech-List.
V/R,
David Foelker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "spencer whitted" <b1bonanza(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzel prop |
it's been a while since i first sent you a note regarding my b-35. it does
have a hartzel with a t drive. we by-passed the governor and were able to
operate the prop using a manual valve that was run into the cockpit.
Therefore we too thought governor even though we had it checked twice by two
lcl prop shops. so we sent the governor to hartzel and they rebuilt it.
It ran well on ground check but for whatever reason when we took it to 5000
ft. the rpm could not be reduced and in fact would climb to 2450 with 23 on
mp.
any thoughts?? The prop has been checked but we don't think that's the
problem as it worked well when by-passed.
spencer in eugene oregon with 666JS
>From: "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net>
>Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Beech-List: Hartzel prop
>Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 21:05:12 -0700
>
>
>I have a B-35 with the Hartzel, and am having a hard time visualizing what
>you are describing... MP has NO effect on the governor, only RPM by way of
>oil pressure.. I guess we should determine if you have a Hartzel C-2052
>governor and a C-137-1B T-drive installed on the fuel pump pad,
>controlling
>an HC-A2X20-4 prop, which is my configuration... If so, it might be that
>the internals of the governor have been mutilated...
>Milt
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: spencer whitted <b1bonanza(at)hotmail.com>
>To:
>Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 5:38 PM
>Subject: Beech-List: Hartzel prop
>
>
>
> >
> > We're having a difficult time correcting a prop problem on our b35.
>It's
>a
> > hartzel that replaced the or. electric drive. on the 235 engine.
> >
> > In oct we replace a single garlock seal on the T drive. to correct a
>slight
> > oil leak. this resulted in a much greater oil leak and the mechanic
> > replaced the single garlock with a double Garlock seal. From that point
>on
> > we have been unable to increase the pitch unless we increase the
>manifold
> > pressure to approx 25 " until the pitch changes. We can then reduce the
> > maniford pressure. However when climbing to say 7000 ' when it's time
>to
> > level off and reduce the rpm the manifold pressure is too low to effect
>a
> > change in the pitch and the rpm. as a matter of fact the rpm gradually
> > increases to redline.
> >
> > any ideas- we have tried replaced the two garlock seals with one and
>that
> > did not correct the problem.
> > spencer b1bonanza(at)hotmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO <david.foelker(at)columbus.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RV-List: RE: Czech-List: Unsubscribe |
--> RV-List message posted by: Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO
Please unsubscribe me from Czech-List.
V/R,
David Foelker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | larry laporte <llapo(at)dmv.com> |
| Subject: | RV4-List: (no subject) |
--> RV4-List message posted by: larry laporte
please un-subscribe to all mail list thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO <david.foelker(at)columbus.af.mil> |
| Subject: | RV4-List: RE: Czech-List: Unsubscribe |
--> RV4-List message posted by: Foelker David J LtCol 50FTS/ADO
Please unsubscribe me from Czech-List.
V/R,
David Foelker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | larry laporte <llapo(at)dmv.com> |
| Subject: | RV-List: (no subject) |
--> RV-List message posted by: larry laporte
please un-subscribe to all mail list thank you
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzel prop |
Spencer,
Sure seems that everything is pointing to low oil pressure in the Hartzell
system. Using more power (Manifold Pressure) spins the (freewheeling) prop
blades to fine pitch. No oil resistance to stop the pitch at the desired
setting, so it keeps creeping to redline.
Cold, thick oil on the ground = no problem.
Hot thin runny oil in the air = prop runaway.
For your own education, read the back "Currents" articles written by Lew Gage in
the American Bonanza Society Magazine. Hey, there's even a printed set
currently available on eBay.
Keep us posted,
Ron Davis
spencer whitted wrote:
>
>
> it's been a while since i first sent you a note regarding my b-35. it does
> have a hartzel with a t drive. we by-passed the governor and were able to
> operate the prop using a manual valve that was run into the cockpit.
> Therefore we too thought governor even though we had it checked twice by two
> lcl prop shops. so we sent the governor to hartzel and they rebuilt it.
> It ran well on ground check but for whatever reason when we took it to 5000
> ft. the rpm could not be reduced and in fact would climb to 2450 with 23 on
> mp.
> any thoughts?? The prop has been checked but we don't think that's the
> problem as it worked well when by-passed.
> spencer in eugene oregon with 666JS
>
> >From: "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net>
> >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: Beech-List: Hartzel prop
> >Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 21:05:12 -0700
> >
> >
> >I have a B-35 with the Hartzel, and am having a hard time visualizing what
> >you are describing... MP has NO effect on the governor, only RPM by way of
> >oil pressure.. I guess we should determine if you have a Hartzel C-2052
> >governor and a C-137-1B T-drive installed on the fuel pump pad,
> >controlling
> >an HC-A2X20-4 prop, which is my configuration... If so, it might be that
> >the internals of the governor have been mutilated...
> >Milt
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: spencer whitted <b1bonanza(at)hotmail.com>
> >To:
> >Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 5:38 PM
> >Subject: Beech-List: Hartzel prop
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > We're having a difficult time correcting a prop problem on our b35.
> > > It's a hartzel that replaced the or. electric drive. on the 235 engine.
> > >
> > > In oct we replace a single garlock seal on the T drive. to correct a
> > > slight oil leak. this resulted in a much greater oil leak and the
> > > mechanic replaced the single garlock with a double Garlock seal.
> > > From that point on we have been unable to increase the pitch unless
> > > we increase the manifold pressure to approx 25 " until the pitch
> > > changes. We can then reduce the maniford pressure.
> > > However when climbing to say 7000 ' when it's time to level off
> > > and reduce the rpm the manifold pressure is too low to effect a
> > > change in the pitch and the rpm. as a matter of fact the rpm
> > > gradually increases to redline.
> > >
> > > any ideas- we have tried replaced the two garlock seals with one
> > > and that did not correct the problem.
> > >
> > > spencer b1bonanza(at)hotmail.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | ABS convention - Who's going? |
Hey!
So which of you (us) are going to the American Bonanza Society Convention in San
Antonio this September 10-14?
At least I'll be there...
Ron Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mary Griffith" <vtailady(at)netzero.com> |
| Subject: | 3 bladed prop on high time engine |
Anyone have any infomation about putting a 3 bladed prop on a high time
IO470 engine? Can't afford to do engine and prop at the same time. The
engine is running great, 1 qt for 9-10 hours. Prop has some repair damage
so would like to change that first. Need feedback, good or bad, from folks
who have changed to the 3 bladed prop without the corresponding "new'
engine.
Thank you,
Mary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzel prop |
Suggest yopu get in contact with American Propeller Service Inc. Redding
CA. Talk to Jim Dean the local # is 221-4470, I'm not sure whether that is
a 916 or 530 area code... Those symptoms sure sound strange...
Milt 5155C
----- Original Message -----
From: spencer whitted <b1bonanza(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Hartzel prop
>
> it's been a while since i first sent you a note regarding my b-35. it
does have a hartzel with a t drive. we by-passed the governor and were
able to operate the prop using a manual valve that was run into the cockpit.
Therefore we too thought governor even though we had it checked twice by two
lcl prop shops. so we sent the governor to hartzel and they rebuilt it.
It ran well on ground check but for whatever reason when we took it to 5000
ft. the rpm could not be reduced and in fact would climb to 2450 with 23 on
mp. any thoughts?? The prop has been checked but we don't think that's the
problem as it worked well when by-passed.
> spencer in eugene oregon with 666JS
>
>
> >From: "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net>
> >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
> >To:
> >Subject: Re: Beech-List: Hartzel prop
> >Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 21:05:12 -0700
> >
> >
> >I have a B-35 with the Hartzel, and am having a hard time visualizing
what
> >you are describing... MP has NO effect on the governor, only RPM by way
of
> >oil pressure.. I guess we should determine if you have a Hartzel C-2052
> >governor and a C-137-1B T-drive installed on the fuel pump pad,
> >controlling
> >an HC-A2X20-4 prop, which is my configuration... If so, it might be that
> >the internals of the governor have been mutilated...
> >Milt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jon Alston" <jalsto(at)flash.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 3 bladed prop on high time engine |
There was a very good article in the ABS magazine about conversion to a 3
blade on an engine that had some time with a 2 blade on it.
The crankshaft counterweights take on a "set" from the natural frequency of
damping the vibrations of a 2 blade. The article stated that an engine that
is not majored at the time of the prop conversion has a good chance of not
running as smoothly as it could due to the scoring of the weights and their
pivots from the 2 blade.
I may be quoting out of context, but that was the general idea.
It was in the June or July issue.
Jon Alston
N2191D
D35
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mary Griffith" <vtailady(at)netzero.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 6:42 PM
Subject: Beech-List: 3 bladed prop on high time engine
>
> Anyone have any infomation about putting a 3 bladed prop on a high time
> IO470 engine? Can't afford to do engine and prop at the same time. The
> engine is running great, 1 qt for 9-10 hours. Prop has some repair damage
> so would like to change that first. Need feedback, good or bad, from
folks
> who have changed to the 3 bladed prop without the corresponding "new'
> engine.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Mary
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Hartzel prop |
Didn't Lew Gage recently do an article on a similar problem. My suggestion
would be to give him a call!
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Hartzel prop
>
> Suggest yopu get in contact with American Propeller Service Inc. Redding
> CA. Talk to Jim Dean the local # is 221-4470, I'm not sure whether that
is
> a 916 or 530 area code... Those symptoms sure sound strange...
> Milt 5155C
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: spencer whitted <b1bonanza(at)hotmail.com>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2000 11:19 AM
> Subject: Re: Beech-List: Hartzel prop
>
>
>
> >
> > it's been a while since i first sent you a note regarding my b-35. it
> does have a hartzel with a t drive. we by-passed the governor and were
> able to operate the prop using a manual valve that was run into the
cockpit.
> Therefore we too thought governor even though we had it checked twice by
two
> lcl prop shops. so we sent the governor to hartzel and they rebuilt it.
> It ran well on ground check but for whatever reason when we took it to
5000
> ft. the rpm could not be reduced and in fact would climb to 2450 with 23
on
> mp. any thoughts?? The prop has been checked but we don't think that's
the
> problem as it worked well when by-passed.
> > spencer in eugene oregon with 666JS
> >
> >
> > >From: "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net>
> > >Reply-To: beech-list(at)matronics.com
> > >To:
> > >Subject: Re: Beech-List: Hartzel prop
> > >Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 21:05:12 -0700
> > >
> > >
> > >I have a B-35 with the Hartzel, and am having a hard time visualizing
> what
> > >you are describing... MP has NO effect on the governor, only RPM by
way
> of
> > >oil pressure.. I guess we should determine if you have a Hartzel
C-2052
> > >governor and a C-137-1B T-drive installed on the fuel pump pad,
> > >controlling
> > >an HC-A2X20-4 prop, which is my configuration... If so, it might be
that
> > >the internals of the governor have been mutilated...
> > >Milt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave T. Chael" <chael(at)enid.com> |
"Beech-List Digest List"
Remove please.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave T. Chael" <chael(at)enid.com> |
"Beech-List Digest List"
Remove please.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R. Fehlandt" <cc-paa(at)tnet.cl> |
| Subject: | bonanza tip tanks |
Hi,
Just read your mail.
Does this price include all the mounting hardware, plumbing etc..., and
another one, in what shape are the tanks, any damage history ??
Thanks & regards
Robert Fehlandt
C35-D2851
cc-paa(at)tnet.cl
-----Mensaje original-----
De: Avi Elbachri
Para: beech-list(at)matronics.com
Fecha: Martes 22 de Agosto de 2000 03:17 PM
Asunto: Beech-List: bonanza tip tanks
>
>for sale bonanza 15gal tip tanks, STC, and paper works, $3500.-
>call 415-740-5369
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Avi Elbachri <avi1(at)ix.netcom.com> |
| Subject: | Re: bonanza tip tanks |
call me at 415-740-5369
"R. Fehlandt" wrote:
>
> Hi,
> Just read your mail.
> Does this price include all the mounting hardware, plumbing etc..., and
> another one, in what shape are the tanks, any damage history ??
> Thanks & regards
>
> Robert Fehlandt
> C35-D2851
> cc-paa(at)tnet.cl
>
> -----Mensaje original-----
> De: Avi Elbachri
> Para: beech-list(at)matronics.com
> Fecha: Martes 22 de Agosto de 2000 03:17 PM
> Asunto: Beech-List: bonanza tip tanks
>
> >
> >for sale bonanza 15gal tip tanks, STC, and paper works, $3500.-
> >call 415-740-5369
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Masters, Donald" <donald.masters(at)lmco.com> |
| Subject: | To: "'beech-list(at)matronics.com'" |
un-subscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Aviation Swap Meet |
Listers:
I wanted to let all the lists know that there is an AVIATION SWAP MEET
on Sunday, September 10, 2000 at 6:00am at the NUT TREE airport in
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA (Vacaville). Go to htttp://www.solanopilots.com for
more information.
David Aronson
RV4 Firewall forward at last!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:S-35 64?s |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
I friend of mine is looking at a 64 S 35. Anyone familiar with this model
and what the +s & -s are.
Thanks in advance. 4300hrs. 1200 engine.
--
Shelby Smith
68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110
Ask me about Beech Party 2000 Oct 16-20
direct e-mail at shelbysmith(at)mac.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:S-35 64?s |
What about Beech Party 2000?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:S-35 64?s
>
> I friend of mine is looking at a 64 S 35. Anyone familiar with this model
> and what the +s & -s are.
>
> Thanks in advance. 4300hrs. 1200 engine.
>
>
> --
> Shelby Smith
> 68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110
> Ask me about Beech Party 2000 Oct 16-20
> direct e-mail at shelbysmith(at)mac.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Beech Party 2000 |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
This is the Staggerwing/Beech 18/Travelair Society convention in Tullahoma,
TN. October 16-20. Lots of activities and open to all Beech owners.
The Beech Staggerwing Museum if not now will someday be a National Treasure.
Files on every known Staggerwing ever built(I say known because there was
one found in the Smokies that had gone down in the early 40s transporting
Manhattan project engineers to Oak Ridge - no public record of this plane
ever being produced). All sorts of interesting information and type meetings
available.
I can e-mail you some information about it if you want.
--
Shelby Smith
68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110
Ask me about Beech Party 2000 Oct 16-20
direct e-mail at shelbysmith(at)mac.com
----------
>From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
>To:
>Subject: Re: Beech-List:S-35 64?s
>Date: Thu, Aug 31, 2000, 7:05 PM
>
> What about Beech Party 2000?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:S-35 64?s |
Dear Listers:
Ever notice how most Bonz are offered for sale when they are approaching
engine major overhaul? Pro: S model is a great airplane. Con: 1200 hours
is approaching major, get a quote on the cost of overhaul and you'll scare
yourself silly, if you decide to offer, use engine price as major chiseling
point on price.
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, 48 Straight 35, 840 hrs. on engine and scared already,
starting annual, did compression check this week, no cyl. below 74, hope to
reach TBO.
>
> I friend of mine is looking at a 64 S 35. Anyone familiar with this model
> and what the +s & -s are.
>
> Thanks in advance. 4300hrs. 1200 engine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:S-35 64?s |
Won't $20,000 do a pretty good overhaul?
Hal Kempthorne
2578 Elliot Court
Santa Clara, CA 95051-1849
408.244.4984 CELL 408.230.0891
RV6a N7HK 99%
1965 Debonair for sale!
See www.hal-kempthorne.com/N6134V.html
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy L. Thwing <n4546v(at)mindspring.com>
Sent: Thursday, August 31, 2000 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:S-35 64?s
>
> Dear Listers:
> Ever notice how most Bonz are offered for sale when they are
approaching
> engine major overhaul? Pro: S model is a great airplane. Con: 1200 hours
> is approaching major, get a quote on the cost of overhaul and you'll scare
> yourself silly, if you decide to offer, use engine price as major
chiseling
> point on price.
> Regards,
> Randy L. Thwing, 48 Straight 35, 840 hrs. on engine and scared already,
> starting annual, did compression check this week, no cyl. below 74, hope
to
> reach TBO.
>
>
>
> >
> > I friend of mine is looking at a 64 S 35. Anyone familiar with this
model
> > and what the +s & -s are.
> >
> > Thanks in advance. 4300hrs. 1200 engine.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave T. Chael" <chael(at)enid.com> |
remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dave T. Chael" <chael(at)enid.com> |
remove
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Dortch" <smallfish(at)enid.com> |
Dave to get off the Beech-list: go to the bottom on the beechlist Email and
click on subscribe. then follow the directions. That should get you off.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave T. Chael <chael(at)enid.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 03, 2000 1:07 PM
Subject: Beech-List: remove
>
> remove
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List:S-35 64?s |
Probably would handle the engine just fine, engine and prop? I'm not so
sure. The point is you don't want to pay the premium price for the ship and
then have to shell out an additional 20 plus for the near TBO engine.
Best of luck.
Randy L. Thwing
----- Original Message -----
From: kempthornes <kempthornes(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2000 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List:S-35 64?s
>
> Won't $20,000 do a pretty good overhaul?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | I don't believe it ... |
For some time, I've been trying to explain just how wide the Bonanza's cabin is
to folks who have never sat in a small plane. I have usually said that it is
narrower than an ordinary car. Narrowness means speed, you know. So, what's a
good comparison? How much narrower? At this point, I usually mumble something
like "Its sort of like an old 1940's Ford," but not too many people can
comprehend that.
Larry Ball's book, "Those Incomparable Bonanzas" says that the cabin is 42
inches wide, and they took that measurement from a popular car of the period, a
Mercury. I imagine it was a 1945 or 1946 model, but I've never heard tell of
the exact model. So, what is this similar to today?
My next door neighbor recently bought a 1963 Volkswagen Beetle convertible, and
we went for a short ride in it. Sure is fun to drive by the beach in that
little gem. Hmmm. The interior seems to be about as cozy as a Bonanza. After
the trip, I grabbed a tape measure to the interior. The width at the dashboard
is about 43 inches, the front seat (at the shoulder) is about 46 inches, and the
rear seat (at the shoulder) is about 43 inches. I couldn't believe it! The
Bonanza is NARROWER than an old Beetle? I'm gonna have to dig out a tape
measure at the airplane and confirm that the cabin width is truly only 42 inches
wide.
Anyway, armed with this new information, my wife has dubbed my plane "The Flying
Volkswagen."
Ron Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: I don't believe it ... |
Great bit of info. Do you really need that Tactair Horizon on auction?
Mine is growling like an old dog.
AL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 6:28 PM
Subject: Beech-List: I don't believe it ...
> My next door neighbor recently bought a 1963 Volkswagen Beetle
convertible, and
> we went for a short ride in it. Sure is fun to drive by the beach in that
> little gem. Hmmm. The interior seems to be about as cozy as a Bonanza.
After
> the trip, I grabbed a tape measure to the interior. The width at the
dashboard
> is about 43 inches, the front seat (at the shoulder) is about 46 inches,
and the
> rear seat (at the shoulder) is about 43 inches. I couldn't believe it!
The
> Bonanza is NARROWER than an old Beetle? I'm gonna have to dig out a tape
> measure at the airplane and confirm that the cabin width is truly only 42
inches
> wide.
>
> Anyway, armed with this new information, my wife has dubbed my plane "The
Flying
> Volkswagen."
>
> Ron Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
"Beech List"
I have a fine running Wakeman 8 day clock in my K model. The glass
(crystal) is made of plastic and starting to craze badly. Since I'm
probably losing anywhere from 3 to 4 mph on this defect, I was wondering if
anyone knew where I could easily obtain a replacement glass. Thanks much.
AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
"Vtail Enthusiasts"
Sorry, don't know where to find a crystal, but if anyone finds out what a
good, clean, running Wakmann is worth, let me know. I have one taken out of
N5155C in 1982 that still keeps excellent time (-30sec per day). Not too
sure I need to get rid of it, it makes a good IFR timer next to the screen
when flying the desk top simulator. But if someone needs it for a
restoration........
Milt
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Bourget" <falconaviation(at)home.com> |
AJ,, not sure if mine is a wakmann,, but it doesn't work,,, if you want to
pay the shipping,, I will send ya the whole thing. The glass is
great.....let me know
Milt,, I might be interested in the clock,, let me know how much
Mike
A35, GFPG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Enthusiasts"
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Clock Parts
>
> Sorry, don't know where to find a crystal, but if anyone finds out what a
> good, clean, running Wakmann is worth, let me know. I have one taken out
of
> N5155C in 1982 that still keeps excellent time (-30sec per day). Not too
> sure I need to get rid of it, it makes a good IFR timer next to the
screen
> when flying the desk top simulator. But if someone needs it for a
> restoration........
> Milt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Bourget" <falconaviation(at)home.com> |
AJ,, not sure if mine is a wakmann,, but it doesn't work,,, if you want to
pay the shipping,, I will send ya the whole thing. The glass is
great.....let me know
Milt,, I might be interested in the clock,, let me know how much
Mike
A35, GFPG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net>
Enthusiasts"
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 5:35 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Clock Parts
>
> Sorry, don't know where to find a crystal, but if anyone finds out what a
> good, clean, running Wakmann is worth, let me know. I have one taken out
of
> N5155C in 1982 that still keeps excellent time (-30sec per day). Not too
> sure I need to get rid of it, it makes a good IFR timer next to the
screen
> when flying the desk top simulator. But if someone needs it for a
> restoration........
> Milt
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
Mike; If it's a Wakmann, it will say so on the face, and also on the back
it should have a serial #, and; "Wakmann Watch Co. Inc. 16 west 47th st.
New York 25, N.Y." in the center fot eh "tested and approved" seal.
Will let you know about mine when I find out what it's worth..
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Bourget <falconaviation(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, September 06, 2000 5:25 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Clock Parts
> AJ,, not sure if mine is a wakmann,, but it doesn't work,,, if you want to
> pay the shipping,, I will send ya the whole thing. The glass is
> great.....let me know
>
> Milt,, I might be interested in the clock,, let me know how much
>
> Mike
> A35, GFPG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Anton Venter <adventer(at)netactive.co.za> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/15/00 |
Beech-List Digest Server
Dear Sirs
I am looking for information on a design that was developed in 1956 by Mr.
David G. Peterson, the Super V Bonanza. The design was taken over by Fleet
Aircraft Inc. of Buffalo New York. Can anybody point me in the right
direction.
Thanks
Anton Venter
aventer(at)afr.ko.com
adventer(at)netactive.co.za
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/15/00 |
----- Original Message -----
From: Anton Venter <adventer(at)netactive.co.za>
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2000 1:54 AM
Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/15/00
>
> Dear Sirs
>
> I am looking for information on a design that was developed in 1956 by Mr.
> David G. Peterson, the Super V Bonanza. The design was taken over by Fleet
> Aircraft Inc. of Buffalo New York. Can anybody point me in the right
> direction.
>
> Thanks
>
> Anton Venter
> aventer(at)afr.ko.com
> adventer(at)netactive.co.za
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 09/15/00 |
Just made a review of STC's, and the Super V STC has apparently gone the
way of the Jourdan-Flannigan spar mod.. out of date, and not renewed...
but you really sparked something in my memory bank... I visuallized a
stinger tail and tip tanks.. Hope someone finds this for you, my curiosity
is piqued.
milt
N5155C
>
> Dear Sirs
>
> I am looking for information on a design that was developed in 1956 by Mr.
> David G. Peterson, the Super V Bonanza. The design was taken over by Fleet
> Aircraft Inc. of Buffalo New York. Can anybody point me in the right
> direction.
>
> Thanks
>
> Anton Venter
> aventer(at)afr.ko.com
> adventer(at)netactive.co.za
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Matt Cognata" <mcognata(at)home.com> |
Hello all:
Can anyone recommend a good source for a magneto (RH) for a B35 with an
E-185-11? Thanks in advance...
Regards,
Matt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Magneto source. |
Contact Al Marcucci at Savage Magneto Service (FAA#VN2R246L)1069 Langly St,
OAK, Okland CA 94614 (510)562-2941
I consider Al to be the best in the business, and is REALLY great on
restorations. He redid my mags (B-35) in '97, and you couldn't tell them
from new.
Milt Ciarlariello
N5155C
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Cognata <mcognata(at)home.com>
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 5:04 AM
Subject: Beech-List: Magneto source.
>
> Hello all:
> Can anyone recommend a good source for a magneto (RH) for a B35 with an
> E-185-11? Thanks in advance...
>
> Regards,
> Matt.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
"Beech List"
| Subject: | FIX - a bit of water in the tank |
Beech Boys;
I seem to get about a tablespoon of water out of the left main each time the
K sits for a few days. It's been hot as heck here in Texas, we've not seen
rain since Christ was a boy, and the night temps only go down about 5
degrees, so I've ruled out condensation, especially in the hangar. The
plane sat outside through the Dallas spring, so I'm sure water got in
through the cap. I replaced the o rings, but I was wondering if there is a
method to defuel the tank and get all the matter that isn't avgas out. Will
the old garden hose siphon do the trick?
Thanks
AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Super V revisited |
A while back someone asked about the Super V.... I tracked it down thru the
kindness of another Beech site and a gentleman named Howard at
netwizards.com
pull up ...
http://www.airbum.com/articles/ArticleSuperVTwinBonanza.html... I saw one
of these on a grass strip near Tracy CA a few years ago, and have always
been intriqued
Regards,
Milt
N5155C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: FIX - a bit of water in the tank |
Al,
The water is *still* probably due to condensation. Hot air sure can hold a lot
of moisture, you know. Best way to eliminate it is to keep the tanks full, but
you knew that. It could be a wrinkle in the bottom of the tank, but those cells
are so darned difficult to install, I find it hard to believe that there is
enough excess rubber to wrinkle at all. :-)
The garden hose siphon will get most of it out, but there will always be
something left at the bottom. What you really need is something powerful enough
to create a current that will sweep away all the grit and gunk that sits on the
bottom -- don't know what you can try other than repeated filling and draining.
Same quandry when cleaning a bathtub, you know. Sure don't want to use a
wet/dry shop vac. Fumes to the electric motor would be spectacular, but
short. Removing the fuel sump drains would create a larger drain hole (and a
faster action), but beware of tearing the rubber when you do that.
Maybe the best would be to drain the tanks, remove the sump drains, and then use
your handy pressurized bug sprayer (filled with avgas again) to spray the
interior of the cell to help wash off all the dirt and down the open sump into
a
bucket. With all that gas, your lawnmower ought to be good for all of next
summer :-)
Oooo. Saw your picture post. Nice little birdie you got there. Sure wish you
could've taken it down to San Antonio so I could've gotten my greasy paws all
over it. :-) Maybe you'll bring it to the AOPA convention out here in October?
Ron Davis
A J DeMarzo wrote:
>
>
> Beech Boys;
> I seem to get about a tablespoon of water out of the left main each time the
> K sits for a few days. It's been hot as heck here in Texas, we've not seen
> rain since Christ was a boy, and the night temps only go down about 5
> degrees, so I've ruled out condensation, especially in the hangar. The
> plane sat outside through the Dallas spring, so I'm sure water got in
> through the cap. I replaced the o rings, but I was wondering if there is a
> method to defuel the tank and get all the matter that isn't avgas out. Will
> the old garden hose siphon do the trick?
> Thanks
> AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
"A J DeMarzo"
| Subject: | Re: FIX - a bit of water in the tank |
DON'T Pressurize and spray AVGAS. It is dangerous. Use Stoddard solvent or
mineral spirits instead! Much, much safer.
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com>
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2000 10:13 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: FIX - a bit of water in the tank
>
> Al,
>
> The water is *still* probably due to condensation. Hot air sure can hold
a lot
> of moisture, you know. Best way to eliminate it is to keep the tanks full,
but
> you knew that. It could be a wrinkle in the bottom of the tank, but those
cells
> are so darned difficult to install, I find it hard to believe that there
is
> enough excess rubber to wrinkle at all. :-)
>
> The garden hose siphon will get most of it out, but there will always be
> something left at the bottom. What you really need is something powerful
enough
> to create a current that will sweep away all the grit and gunk that sits
on the
> bottom -- don't know what you can try other than repeated filling and
draining.
> Same quandry when cleaning a bathtub, you know. Sure don't want to use a
> wet/dry shop vac. Fumes to the electric motor would be spectacular, but
> short. Removing the fuel sump drains would create a larger drain hole
(and a
> faster action), but beware of tearing the rubber when you do that.
>
> Maybe the best would be to drain the tanks, remove the sump drains, and
then use
> your handy pressurized bug sprayer (filled with avgas again) to spray the
> interior of the cell to help wash off all the dirt and down the open sump
into a
> bucket. With all that gas, your lawnmower ought to be good for all of
next
> summer :-)
>
> Oooo. Saw your picture post. Nice little birdie you got there. Sure
wish you
> could've taken it down to San Antonio so I could've gotten my greasy paws
all
> over it. :-) Maybe you'll bring it to the AOPA convention out here in
October?
>
> Ron Davis
>
>
> A J DeMarzo wrote:
> >
> >
> > Beech Boys;
> > I seem to get about a tablespoon of water out of the left main each time
the
> > K sits for a few days. It's been hot as heck here in Texas, we've not
seen
> > rain since Christ was a boy, and the night temps only go down about 5
> > degrees, so I've ruled out condensation, especially in the hangar. The
> > plane sat outside through the Dallas spring, so I'm sure water got in
> > through the cap. I replaced the o rings, but I was wondering if there
is a
> > method to defuel the tank and get all the matter that isn't avgas out.
Will
> > the old garden hose siphon do the trick?
> > Thanks
> > AL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: FIX - a bit of water in the tank |
Hi Gang,
It finally happened to me. Yesterday, while on a local flight, the gear
on my E-model stayed up when the gear switch was in the down position. No
noise, no pitch change, no green light. Pulled circuit breaker, put gear
switch in down position, cranked for 20 miles, green light, mechanical
indicator pointed down, folks on airport said gear down, landed without
incident.
Where do I go from here? Can someone explain the proper way to proceed. I
would appreciate any advice I can get.
Thanks
Mark Mullahey
mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Gear problems |
Mark,
(Still on a campaign to get Bob Fish to be a "Fellow Bonanza Man")
The most popular problem with the gear in this kind of failure is the motor, but
the second most popular is a bad limit switch.
Check the limit switch first, as its cheaper. If the 'down' limit switch is
broken, the gear thinks its already down, and won't move. Cranking the gear
partially down sometimes encourages the limit switch to begin working again, and
the gear can now go down the rest of the way by itself. A cheap $25
replacement.
Second, one of the windings (or contact on the commutator) is bad, leaving the
motor on a 'dead' spot. cranking the gear down a few turns moves it off the dead
spot. Push the breaker back in and the motor spins, bringing the gear down. As
the gear cycles up and down several times on the jacks, it may or may not happen
again, depending on where the motor coasts to a stop at the end of the gear
cycle. The cure is to get the gear motor rebuilt or replaced. I think gear
motors are in the neighborhood of $400.00. Ow.
Other causes would be:
Bad Piano Key gear switch (easy to check with a continuity tester),
Bad circuit breaker (easy to check with a continuity tester),
Bad wiring (hard to check - use a stopwatch to check for 9-11 second gear cycle
time. If its longer than that, it may be corrosion/high resistance -- probably
at a connector),
Jammed gear mechanism (easy, but time consuming to check while on jacks.
Pushrods, nosewheel linkage, uplock mechanism/springs, stuck assist step cable,
other un-lubed joints, etc.).
Happy troubleshooting,
Ron Davis
MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi Gang,
> It finally happened to me. Yesterday, while on a local flight, the gear
> on my E-model stayed up when the gear switch was in the down position. No
> noise, no pitch change, no green light. Pulled circuit breaker, put gear
> switch in down position, cranked for 20 miles, green light, mechanical
> indicator pointed down, folks on airport said gear down, landed without
> incident.
> Where do I go from here? Can someone explain the proper way to proceed. I
> would appreciate any advice I can get.
> Thanks
> Mark Mullahey
> mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Beech electric motors ... |
Mark Mullahey's question about the landing gear got me to thinkin' again...
(DANGER! Ron is thinking!)
The original Bonanza had 3 separate, and different electric motors in it:
The Beech electric prop pitch motor,
The Beech electric flaps motor,
The Beech electric landing gear motor.
Each of these motors are roughly the same in size and duty cycle (with the
appropriate gearing). So why didn't Beech use the same motor for each of the
three systems?
No, not one motor in the plane, but three identical, interchangeable motors.
Would've saved a pile of money in purchasing and inventory.
Ron Davis
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J" <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
git it on jacks and pull your seats out ... check for tight bearing/links
check the uplock rollers, check the uplock release cables.... learn how the
gear operate... you'll find it..
Milt
-----Original Message-----
From: MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com <MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com>
Date: Friday, September 22, 2000 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: FIX - a bit of water in the tank
>
>Hi Gang,
> It finally happened to me. Yesterday, while on a local flight, the
gear
>on my E-model stayed up when the gear switch was in the down position. No
>noise, no pitch change, no green light. Pulled circuit breaker, put gear
>switch in down position, cranked for 20 miles, green light, mechanical
>indicator pointed down, folks on airport said gear down, landed without
>incident.
> Where do I go from here? Can someone explain the proper way to proceed.
I
>would appreciate any advice I can get.
>Thanks
>Mark Mullahey
>mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
"Beech List"
| Subject: | Radio/TV Aviation Shows |
Anyone out there in aviation land know of any radio or TV shows that
dedicate themselves to aviation or flying in general? There are loads of
home & garden, automobile, fishing, hunting and on and on, but I don't
recall seeing or hearing anything other than the "Wings" stuff or the EAA
presentations on Speedvision. I wonder if something like a radio talk show
that was carried in a few states would work. I know I'd be listening!
________________________________________________________________________________
Beech-List Digest Server
| From: | "M T Barksdale" <skyranger(at)hartcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 09/24/00 |
Speedvision Television channel in our area has each Wednesday night
emphasis on Aviation... and hour or so of several programs. Some EAA and
others.
Mac
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | hawk172(at)webtv.net.ETAsAhQDQLbJAGy08hRjmt+rO0PJTJFM6wIUEhrr4Sl4B4URXHnbTJOeEwRsF+kDate: |
hawk172(at)webtv.net.ETAsAhQDQLbJAGy08hRjmt+rO0PJTJFM6wIUEhrr4Sl4B4URXHnbTJOeEwRsF+k
I am looking for a place in New York state-western Mass or northern Pa
were I can get some dual in a Bonanza. I have 2000 hours total time but
none in the last ten years. Now retired and would like to get back to
flying and buy a plane.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
"Beech-List Digest Server"
| Subject: | Re: PS-5 overhaul |
We are re-assembling a straight 35.. Have just put the J-F wing mod in,
started it for the first time in about 4 yrs.. final touch-up yet to be
done..
Someone made a note a while back about PS-5 overhauls in the central CA
area.. could you repeat? I didn't copy off the data...
My B35 is coming up on a carb ovhl, and this straight 35 really needs it..
Also, we have quite a bit of swapping material.. Dual control yoke with
original wheels from an A-35, Nose gear from a G-35, A new nose gear A
frame, Wing bolt wrenches (original Beech--understand not even made
anymore), ruddervator balance weights, G-35 3rd window framing, and a
exchange core for a PS-5 carb..
Milt
N5155C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
Hello Listers:
I'm flying my old 48 Bonanza down to Copperstate tomorrow morning and
would look forward to meeting any other listers. Look me up
at the "Belted Air Power" tent.
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing, 48 Straight 35
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KHebestrei(at)Aol.com |
Randy ill be there as well ill try to stop & see you D-35 3413B Kevin
Hebestreit
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Randy L. Thwing" <n4546v(at)mindspring.com> |
BG: Thanks for the input, I pulled the prop this afternoon, I don't think
the problem is electrical. The prop has 158 hrs since last being serviced,
but it has been several years so time rather than hours dictates the need
for service. I hate to take the chance on damaging the pitch change bearing
so I will have the prop serviced. I will try to address the following:
>
> Randy, this can sure lead to a prop overspeed situation.
Could you define an "overspeed situation"?
Do you still have
> the original open contact mechanical relays ?
Yes, almost everything on my ship is original.
Most likely it's a loose wire
> somewhere. You probably already have the solid state governor.
I have no govenor, only a toggle switch for hi or lo prop, and I am happy
with this.
Do you have
> the wiring diagrams ?
I have the wiring diagrams in the Beech service manuals
>
> PS; I think an additionally scary situation is when the prop is in the low
> rpm setting and it fails to transition to the hi-rpm position. Such as
when
> you have come in for a landing and would need to make a go around. The
prop
> would remain in the low-rpm setting and no provide the power to maneuver
or
> climb out.
This is what happened to me today, the prop responded normally during runup,
during takeoff I achieved takeoff rpm, 2500+ (E-185-8), as I was leaving
early over populated areas, I reduced rpm to normal climb rpm very quickly
to reduce noise (2050 rpm). I then reduced MP from climb to cruise, and at
this point, the prop failed to respond, it was stuck at the previous 2050
rpm setting with climb MP. I reduced power to very low setting, got my
speed down, lowered gear and flaps, and made a high approach with slightly
higher airspeed so I wouldn't have to completely rely on power during the
landing flare. It was no problem with a 5000' runway.
>
> There are many of our early Bonanza's that still are flying around with
the
> original wiring/relays/connections, etc. It's my opinion that a person
> should completely overhaul there wiring from the prop pitch motor to the
> relay's, and relay's to the switch/governor
Are there modern relays etc. that are APPROVED AND LEGAL to install?
>
> I have come across a few Bonanza's with the incorrect terminals, wiring
etc.
> that have been spliced into the existing factory original wiring.
>
> Oh well, if you need any diagrams, just let me know I have a few online
for
> viewing.
>
> Good Luck
> Bryan
Thanks again Bryan,
Regards,
Randy L. Thwing
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BG Wells" <bgwells(at)uswest.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate (now early Beech prop's) |
When is the last time the pitch change motor was overhauled ?
> Could you define an "overspeed situation"?
On the Bonanza models that had the automatic governor, you can set the
toggle switch (Hi - Low - Auto). During take-off with the toggle switch in
auto, the governor would limit RPM to 2600 (E185-11) or 2650RPM for the
(E225-8). After the Beech imposed one minute limit you'd then dial the
governor knob to achieve the desired cruise RPM for the engine and model of
Bonanza you have. There is specific manufacture information regarding the
Beech prop blades RPM limits. I would have to look it up, but I remember
something about if the RPM of the prop goes above 2800 - 3000 RPM you either
have to have the blades checked or discard them.
Since the planes with the automatic governors have the ability to fail, you
would want to make sure that you could come down off hi-rpm pitch setting
after take-off, other wise once you have gear up and level off, full power
will bring you past 2600 (E-185-11).
Sounds like you have a different situation with the (E185-8) motor and no
governor. Your RPM limit on take-off is different too.
> Are there modern relays etc. that are APPROVED AND LEGAL to install?
It depends, yes there are replacements if you have someone willing to
install them with the proper paper work.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: early Beech prop's |
Quoting from sec IV pg 4-20 of the MM.. series 215 props.
."1. up to 3000 rpm - visually inspect.
2. 3000-3500rpm - dissassemble and completely inspect.(Magnetically inspect
all steel parts) etch or anodize and inspect aluminum portion of blade for
cracks by one of the sttandard approved methods; visually examine blade
hardware and blade retention but do not dissassemble blade hardware. Seep
anodize solution off parts and blade.
3. over 3500rpm - scrap blades and hub."
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: BG Wells <bgwells(at)uswest.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 15, 2000 4:18 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Copperstate (now early Beech prop's)
>
>
> When is the last time the pitch change motor was overhauled ?
>
>
> > Could you define an "overspeed situation"?
>
> On the Bonanza models that had the automatic governor, you can set the
> toggle switch (Hi - Low - Auto). During take-off with the toggle switch in
> auto, the governor would limit RPM to 2600 (E185-11) or 2650RPM for the
> (E225-8). After the Beech imposed one minute limit you'd then dial the
> governor knob to achieve the desired cruise RPM for the engine and model
of
> Bonanza you have. There is specific manufacture information regarding the
> Beech prop blades RPM limits. I would have to look it up, but I remember
> something about if the RPM of the prop goes above 2800 - 3000 RPM you
either
> have to have the blades checked or discard them.
>
> Since the planes with the automatic governors have the ability to fail,
you
> would want to make sure that you could come down off hi-rpm pitch setting
> after take-off, other wise once you have gear up and level off, full power
> will bring you past 2600 (E-185-11).
>
> Sounds like you have a different situation with the (E185-8) motor and no
> governor. Your RPM limit on take-off is different too.
>
>
> > Are there modern relays etc. that are APPROVED AND LEGAL to install?
>
> It depends, yes there are replacements if you have someone willing to
> install them with the proper paper work.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David P. Walen" <davewsr(at)wilmington.net> |
If anybody is interested in a nice D35 let me know.
$40,000.00 range.
Specs available upon request
Dave Walen
910 763-1925
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate (now early Beech prop's) |
Hi Airman,
The continuing story of "my gear won't come down." I have an e-model
bonanza up on jacks and when you put the gear handle up the gear comes up
***but*** when you put the gear handle down. You guessed it. Where do I go
from here?
Thanks in advance
Mark Mullahey
mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Copperstate (now early Beech prop's) |
Mark,
"Gear goes up, but they don't come down."
The system is relatively simple. The landing gear switch energizes the landing
gear motor which runs until a limit switch is tripped, opening the circuit and
stopping the motor. There are two separate systems: one for gear-down, and a
different system for gear-up. They just happen to use the same toggle switch
and gear motor. Keep that in mind while troubleshooting.
Now, the landing gear system has a couple of other systems tied to it, like the
gear motor's dynamic brake system, the gear door opening/closing mechanism, and
the assist step retraction mechanism, but they *usually* don't cause this kind
of trouble.
If the gear won't come up, the items to check (in order of popularity of
failure) are:
(1) Bad up-limit switch.
The switch is bad (open), signifying that the gear has already come up and
tripped the limit switch, so the gear motor stops.
NOTE: When extending the gear, the up-limit switch is NOT in the circuit.
NOTE: When retracting the gear, the down-limit switch is NOT in the circuit
(but the squat switch *is*).
Last time I checked, the limit switches were something like $25 apiece, so
folks tried to save a few bucks and would "adjust" the limit switches. This
would make the problem go away for a while, because they were really masking the
actual problem (#2).
Also, the last time I checked, a gear-up landing cost considerably more than
a hundred times the cost of a limit switch. They should only need replacing --
they (well, mine, anyway) have never needed adjusting.
(2) Bad gear motor winding.
The motor has three separate windings on it. (or is it 2? I forget.) If one
of the windings are bad, the motor will still run, but more slowly. Retraction
/ extension time on the 12v systems is something like 10-12 seconds. If the
motor comes to rest so that the commutator contacts of the dead windings are the
ones that touch the brushes, the motor is "dead" and won't run. You can usually
pull the gear circuit breaker, engage the hand crank for 4-5 turns, stow the
crank, push the circuit breaker back in, and the gear will come down okay. This
moved the motor off of its dead spot, and allowed it to run. Time for a motor
rebuild/replacement ($400 or so).
(3) Bad squat switch.
There is an anti-retraction switch on one of the landing gear legs. Its a
safety feature so you don't retract the gear while on the ground. The gear leg
*must* be extended (gear leg extended = no weight = taking off = not sitting on
the ground) for the gear to retract. This is a positive switch system. If this
fails, your gear will stay down, and won't come back up.
Since you have the opposite problem, this does not apply.
(4) Bad wiring.
The landing gear system is actually two separate circuits -- gear-down, and
gear-up. They use different wiring. One of the sets may be bad.
In your case, the set to check is the gear-down system.
Time to get a couple of 6-ft lengths of wiring, pull the front seat out, and
bypass the wires from the gear-down switch and go from a hot 12v source directly
to the gear motor. If it spins, then you may have a wiring / corrosion
problem. Investigate further with a volt-ohm meter, and laboriously check out
the wires, one at a time.
(5) Bad gear switch.
As above, the switch is used for two separate functions.
Perhaps the gear-down side of the switch is bad.
It will take you a couple short lengths (1 ft or less) of wire with
alligator clips on them to jump over the landing gear toggle switch to hop the
12v power side to the gear-down side, bypassing the switch mechanism. If the
switch is in the gear-down position, and doesn't do anything, but jumpering over
the switch engages the motor, then you have found your culprit.
The Cutler-Hammer "piano key" switches are not made anymore, but are still
around here and there for about $35. Replacing them is difficult mainly because
of the rat's nest of wiring and lack of elbow room, but it isn't brain surgery.
Just make sure you connect the gear-up to the up side, and the gear-down to the
down side when you put in the new switch.
An Aside:
I have the original bench-style front seat, and it has a gap between the bottom
of the seat and the forward spar. The gap is big enough for me to tuck a fire
extinguisher in is bracket, a D-cell flashlight, a headseat, and other junk.
This gap is large for me to accidentally push this junk past the forward spar,
allowing it to drop down on top of the landing gear gearbox, and its gear
extension/retraction arms. Something like a flashlight could *jam* the
mechanism, preventing the gear from operating.
I am going to have a cover plate of thin aluminum made up to prevent
miscellaneous debris from falling in there. Others may want to do the same.
Happy landings,
Ron Davis
MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com wrote:
>
>
> Hi Airman,
> The continuing story of "my gear won't come down." I have an e-model
> bonanza up on jacks and when you put the gear handle up the gear comes up
> ***but*** when you put the gear handle down. You guessed it. Where do I go
> from here?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Mark Mullahey
> mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Landing gear |
Hey, this is easy...
1/ Does the alternate extension work?
Y/ drop the gear and go to electric checkout...
N/ check the uplock rollers for freedom and uplock cables for
integrity
y/ check gearbox for freedom by disconnecting the control
arms and hand cranking..
n/ replace/repair uplock cables
etc..
Actually, all you have to do is go through the steps of what it takes to
lower the gear step by step...
Read Sec II (of the old MM) page 2-28 and on... This is VERY interesting
reading, and much of it is serial # specific....
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: <MMMARKMM(at)Aol.com>
Sent: Friday, October 20, 2000 6:21 AM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Copperstate (now early Beech prop's)
>
> Hi Airman,
> The continuing story of "my gear won't come down." I have an e-model
> bonanza up on jacks and when you put the gear handle up the gear comes up
> ***but*** when you put the gear handle down. You guessed it. Where do I go
> from here?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Mark Mullahey
> mmmarkmm(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Beech Staggerwing Convention Pictures |
| From: | "Shelby Smith" <shelbyrv6a(at)mindspring.com> |
Hi all,
Here is a link to some pictures I took yesterday at the National Staggerwing
Convention. The Beech Staggerwing Museum is located in Tullahoma TN and
deserves to be a national landmark. Incredible repository of information on
the the early years of the most successful General Aviation manufacturer in
the world.
http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4293462197
Once this page comes up you can click on the index icon and see thumbnails
of all pictures rather that slogging through each successive shot.
--
Shelby Smith
68 B-23 N4004T serial #1110
Ask me about Beech Party 2000 Oct 18-20 http://www.staggerwingmuseum.com/
direct e-mail at shelbysmith(at)mac.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
| Subject: | Trade in your Bonanza ?? |
Just heard about this entry on eBay:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=480035605
>
> Space Station
> Item #480035605
>
> Space Station MIR. This is the Space Station, MIR, property of the former U.S.S.R.
> I will be accepting bids and sending the Russian Government their cut of the
profit.
> It is in disrepair and in need of some TLC. If you possess space travel ability,
> this is a great addition to your collection! There will be a reserve as this
is a
> "high" ticket item. Hecklers will receive FREE SHIPPING, or, just leave it where
> it is.
> buyer pays $400 thousand US dollars shipping.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cy Galley" <cgalley(at)qcbc.org> |
| Subject: | Save on your insurance. |
FYI
Cy Galley - Editor, B-C Contact!
(Click here to visit our Club site at http://www.bellanca-championclub.com)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Troy Foster" <viking.flyer(at)gte.net>
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: Landing gear 72 17-30 A
> Bellanca Viking Chat
>
> It sounds like you have the STC'd fixed gear system(STC 0ICU812). It
> supplanted the Auto Axion for insuring against gear-up landings. USAIG
> offers a 10 % discount for planes so equipped. Other STC's can save tire
> wear but sometimes hurt the feathers. I would ignore it and apply for
even
> cheaper insurance rates based on straight legs. AND you will save on
> hydraulic fluid, etc. What a benefit.
>
> Since the rules for high performance are NOW 201 HP instead of 200, I am
> considering removing one propeller blade - leaving two - to reduce my 300
> HP to 200 for even more savings.
>
> Don't let me hear complaints regarding insurance rates now that I have
> shared this wisdom...
>
> Troy Foster
> '69 17-31TC N7358V
> viking.flyer(at)gte.net
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> To unsubscribe, write to VikingChat-unsubscribe(at)listbot.com
> ______________________________________________________________________
> Applying to college this year?
> Apply online at Embark.com and enter the Embark.com Tuition
> Sweepstakes! You could win $80,000 for tuition to the college of your
> dreams! Enter daily to increase your chances of winning: Sweepstakes
> ends 1/15/00. Click to enter: http://www.listbot.com/links/embark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Bourget" <falconaviation(at)home.com> |
Thanks Joe!!,, very nice work on the yoke....although I think it took more
time to unwrap it than it did to ship......
Mike Bourget
C-GFPG
49 Bonanza
"dance the skies on laughter-silvered wings"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | beda(at)NETCOURRIER.COM |
HI ALL I AM NEW ON THE LIST
I FLY MY NICE 1947 BONANZA 35 SN D677 AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE
IT S JUST GREAT
JUST MY FAMILY IS GROWING KIDS ARE GETTING OLDER AND BIGGER AND I WILL HAVE A
PROBLEMS SOON TO CARRY EVERYBODY
I AM THINKING TO GO ON A V35B OR S35 OR A36 MAY BE
ANYBODY CAN HELP WHICH ONE IS THE FASTER AND CAN CARRY THE BEST PAYLOAD
THANK YOU ALL
REGARDS
GILLES BEDA PARIS FRANCE
BEDA GILLES
TEL FAX 33 1 42 05 05 49
E MAIL BEDA(at)NETCOURRIER.COM
----- La messagerie itinrante sans abonnement NetCourrier -----
Web : www.netcourrier.com Minitel : 3615 et 3623 NETCOURRIER
Tl : 08 36 69 00 21
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ron Davis" <rdavis(at)imetinc.com> |
Bonjour, Gilles!
It will be difficult to tell you which plane to get, because the planes may have
modifications which make it heavier, or faster than the original specifications.
For a start:
* The S35 will probably be the cheapest to buy, but will probably have the
smallest payload.
* The V35B will probably be faster, but the weight-and-balance limits will be
the most difficult.
* The A36 will have a good speed, payload, and weight-and-balance tolerance, but
it will be the most expensive.
It depends on the individual airplane, but you may find a V35B that will perform
quite nicely, and will cost much less than an A36. If you have two children,
you are probably concerned about carrying additional luggage for them, as well
as their increasing size. For them, you may have to step up to an A36.
This will be quite a shock going from a 1947 model 35 to a 1980s' A36. They are
heavier, roomier, faster, *much* more expensive, and don't handle as nicely as
the '35.'
Bonne chance,
Ron Davis
Newport Beach, California
1954 E35 Bonanza
beda(at)NETCOURRIER.COM wrote:
>
>
> HI ALL I AM NEW ON THE LIST
> I FLY MY NICE 1947 BONANZA 35 SN D677 AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE
> IT S JUST GREAT
> JUST MY FAMILY IS GROWING KIDS ARE GETTING OLDER AND BIGGER AND I WILL HAVE
A
> PROBLEMS SOON TO CARRY EVERYBODY
> I AM THINKING TO GO ON A V35B OR S35 OR A36 MAY BE
> ANYBODY CAN HELP WHICH ONE IS THE FASTER AND CAN CARRY THE BEST PAYLOAD
> THANK YOU ALL
> REGARDS
> GILLES BEDA PARIS FRANCE
>
> BEDA GILLES
> TEL FAX 33 1 42 05 05 49
> E MAIL BEDA(at)NETCOURRIER.COM
>
> ----- La messagerie itinrante sans abonnement NetCourrier -----
> Web : www.netcourrier.com Minitel : 3615 et 3623 NETCOURRIER
> Tl : 08 36 69 00 21
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | A Season of Giving - Please Support Your List! |
Dear Listers,
As my good friend Al Mojzisik from the RV-List forum has pointed out in
his humorous style this morning, its time for the Annual List Fund
Raiser! For those that are new to the Lists since last year, I'd like
to just mention what its all about. I have always run the List services
here completely free of charge to the members. This includes the Email
Lists, Archive Search Engine, as well as some of the other goodies found
on the servers. My policy has always been that I will never charge a
'fee' to sign up for any of the email Lists and I have also turned down
a number potentially lucrative of 'commercial' offers to provide
advertising space either on the various web pages or on in each of the
outgoing emails. I have always graciously declined these offers,
however, because I have felt that the friendly, homey feeling of the
commercial-free site was very appealing. I have also felt that offering
the services here for free is the best way to stimulate the greatest
membership, and in my opinion, this is the most important element in the
success of a forum such as this. So, once again, I will restate my
commitment to always keeping all of the services here on the Matronics
servers free to everyone.
That being said, I must also say that running this system is far from
free for me, however. I am continually trying to provide the best, most
reliable service possible and have continued to upgrade the systems as
necessary to maintain or improve the level of service I provide. Quite
aside from the "real costs" involved in the maintenance of a service
like this, however, is the time commitment necessary to keep everything
running and time required to produce new and improved software
enhancements to make the whole experience more enjoyable for everyone.
On the average I spend 10 to 20 hours a week handling subscription
requests and related problems, maintaining the existing computer code
base, and developing new utilities for the List community.
The whole List site (web server and email server) continue to run across
the 768kb/sec DSL-based Internet connection. Connections to the servers
have generally been pretty reliable and performance has been good. Up
time for the connection has approached the 99% mark.
If you regularly enjoy the services provided here, I would ask that you
make a Contribution in any amount in which you are comfortable. Your
Contribution will be used to directly support the continued operation
and improvement of all these services, and as always, I will turn your
Contributions back into more upgrades and improvements. It is truly an
investment in the future of these Lists.
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard,
please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
As I have done in the past, I will post a "Contributors List" at the end
of the Fund Raiser, personally acknowledging each and everyone that has
generously made a Contribution this year!
Finally, I just want to say *Thank You* to everyone that has supported
me and my operation here this year. Your support and encouragement
means a great deal to me and I feel like I have friends literally from
all around the world!
Sincerely,
Matt Dralle
Your Email List Administrator
dralle(at)matronics.com
============================================================================
>--------------
>--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik
>
>Well folks,
>
>I hate to spring this on you without much advance warning and all but it's
>November already. For you newer List members you may not know but this is
>the time of year we all give "thanks" for all that Matte Dralle has done
>for us with this RV-List. the customary way of saying "thanks" is with a
>voluntary donation of cash through Matte's own simple and safe contribution
>hot-line at:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>It's really rather painless and actually gives you a good warm and fuzzy
>feeling inside after you have made your contribution. Now last year I
>relied heavily on guilt to get some of you harder nuts to crack to ante
>up. This year I hope that in keeping with the election year theme I can
>learn something from the experts........"It's for the children."
>
>Yes your contribution will help children everywhere learn about the high
>moral values that are inherent in the RV family of aircraft. As our young
>charges surf the Internet for information on various things that we don't
>want them to know about, they may stumble across the Matronics Website and
>become aware of the RV-List and other interesting forums that Matte
>provides. This in turn may change there lives as they see what can be
>achieved through hard work and perseverance. They will learn how the polite
>exchange of idea's between consenting adults can result in the birth of one
>(or more) of the finest aircraft in existence today. They can become aware
>of a whole world out there that had previously been unknown or out of reach
>to them. So in the interest of our children, send your contribution to
>Matte to help the RV-List live long and prosper.............Darn, got my
>tongue caught in my cheek there for a moment.
>
>Once again, you can make your contribution through credit card at:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> c/o Matt Dralle
> Matronics
> P.O. Box 347
> Livermore, CA. 94551
>
>I would like to pledge at this time that I will not place any negative
>advertising in the hope of raising funds for RV-List support. (Unless you
>folks hold out too long, then look out!) Let's have a real clean campaign
>this November and get out the contributions! AL
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Bourget" <falconaviation(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Tacair Autopilots |
Hi gang, questions? I would like to install an autopilot in my ole girl?
Do the brittain and/or tacair need stc's, or can they put in because of the
type certificate?
Mike Bourget
C-GFPG
49 Bonanza
"dance the skies on laughter-silvered wings"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tacair Autopilots |
All need STC's, although I'm sure Tactair wouldn't care too much if you sent
in a photocopy. Best thing to do is to put in an STEC that is upgradeable.
Kinda like pay as you go as you see fit.
Al
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Bourget" <falconaviation(at)home.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 9:04 PM
Subject: Beech-List: Tacair Autopilots
>
> Hi gang, questions? I would like to install an autopilot in my ole girl?
> Do the brittain and/or tacair need stc's, or can they put in because of
the
> type certificate?
>
>
> Mike Bourget
> C-GFPG
> 49 Bonanza
> "dance the skies on laughter-silvered wings"
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AP-IA Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | 10% for Matronics |
AP-IA Bookstore and eCharts is happy to do again, what we did successfully last
year. That is to donate a portion of our sales for the month of November to the
maintenance of the Beech list.
10% FOR MATRONICS
Starting now, 10% of any purchase from either AP-IA Bookstore or eCharts will be
put aside as a donation to the Beech list, as our thanks for this excellent
resource for Beechcraft pilots. We will run this special throughout November
with a check for the total amount presented to Matt on December 1st 2000.
To designate your share, please write the words "10% for Matronics" in the
Special Instructions box on the on-line order form. Or, if you order something
by phone, just tell me when you call.
Thank you Matt for this excellent service.
Andy Gold
AP-IA Bookstore
http://AP-IAbooks.com
eCharts
http://eCharts.cc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
"Vtail Enthusiasts"
| Subject: | Parachutes and Covers |
Gang;
There's a fellow selling some old parachutes on ebay. I picked one up
recently and they're great for covering the plane. Check them out! Ebay
#487473620 and #487475995.
Al
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CountVoo(at)Aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/25/00 |
What is a good 'technique' for short-field T/O and LANDING ?
>>> For Bonanza 35 w/ 205 0r 225 HP full fuel w/ 3 souls onboard.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/25/00 |
Hello Voo! Do you still have that straight model? I thought someone
finally got smart and bought it from you!
AL
----- Original Message -----
From: <CountVoo(at)Aol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 6:42 PM
Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/25/00
>
> What is a good 'technique' for short-field T/O and LANDING ?
> >>> For Bonanza 35 w/ 205 0r 225 HP full fuel w/ 3 souls onboard.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
Your question seems a bit simplistic, and makes me ask...Do you have the
right POH? Ifso, just fly it by the numbers... I have never been
disappointed in some 3000 hrs of flying Sunny the Beech, a B-35 with E185-8
(205) engine... DON'T come over the fence at those airliner approach
speeds, and DON'T drive it into the next county to get excess airspeed on
lift off. Know your TRUE VSO, and 1.3 VSO is all you need for anything up
to a B777
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: <CountVoo(at)Aol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 4:42 PM
Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/25/00
>
> What is a good 'technique' for short-field T/O and LANDING ?
> >>> For Bonanza 35 w/ 205 0r 225 HP full fuel w/ 3 souls onboard.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Bourget" <falconaviation(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/25/00 |
AJ,, ole Count Voo, was kind enough to fly his beautiful N8708A, out to
Ottawa Canada and it became C-GFPG
MIke
----- Original Message -----
From: "A J DeMarzo" <aerome(at)ev1.net>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/25/00
>
> Hello Voo! Do you still have that straight model? I thought someone
> finally got smart and bought it from you!
> AL
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <CountVoo(at)Aol.com>
> To: ;
> Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 6:42 PM
> Subject: Beech-List: Re: Beech-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 10/25/00
>
>
> >
> > What is a good 'technique' for short-field T/O and LANDING ?
> > >>> For Bonanza 35 w/ 205 0r 225 HP full fuel w/ 3 souls onboard.
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CountVoo(at)Aol.com |
NO,,, i do not have any "POH" books ,,,, if I had access to a flight
operations manual (i guess thats suposely a POH (for civilians(?) ,,, then I
would not need ask such a question,,,,
so as it stands ,,,,all i know to do is hmmmm????,,,, oh yes don't "dive it
like some B777 across the fence".
I really was looking for something a bit more "specific" ,,,, if i can't get
anything,,, then I'll make up something for us all,,, (country)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
Sorry, didn't mean to sound so clipped... Take her up and in a full landing
config at the weight you anticipate, check for the indicated stall speed..
Should be about 65 mph indicated.. multiply that by 1.3, ( about 84.5) and
use that as your approach speed.. Works every time... Also gives you a good
feel for what the bird does at those speeds.. Handy to know.. You should be
able to do a standard rate turn at Vso + a hair, without losing control,
these birds are very stable. This defines your Vmo..
My 1.3Vso is 83.5, so I use 80 for lift off and 90 for climb to 500agl, then
120 for cruise climb closing cowl flaps..
I generally approach at 80 (empty) to 90 (max gross), touch down at 75.
This gives you a rather steep approach unless you are carrying quite a few
turns on the screw...
Regards,
Milt
----- Original Message -----
From: <CountVoo(at)Aol.com>
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: Beech-List: Re:Short fields
>
> NO,,, i do not have any "POH" books ,,,, if I had access to a flight
> operations manual (i guess thats suposely a POH (for civilians(?) ,,, then
I
> would not need ask such a question,,,,
> so as it stands ,,,,all i know to do is hmmmm????,,,, oh yes don't "dive
it
> like some B777 across the fence".
> I really was looking for something a bit more "specific" ,,,, if i can't
get
> anything,,, then I'll make up something for us all,,, (country)
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | beda(at)NETCOURRIER.COM |
SIR I ALSO HAVE A 1947 STRAIGH 35 SN D677 AND 1,3 VSO WORKS
I HAVE THE -8 AND IT S GREAT
I AM LOOKING FOR A DUAL YOKE I FOUND ONE BUT I THINK I WILL NEED AN ADAPTOR
ANYBODY CAN HELP REGARDS GILLES PARIS FRANCE
BEDA GILLES
TEL FAX 33 1 42 05 05 49
E MAIL BEDA(at)NETCOURRIER.COM
----- La messagerie itinrante sans abonnement NetCourrier -----
Web : www.netcourrier.com Minitel : 3615 et 3623 NETCOURRIER
Tl : 08 36 69 00 21
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CountVoo(at)Aol.com |
ah ha! THANKS Milt! appreciate your specific explanation....on what to look
for
Now,,, let me ask,,,
May 22, 2000 - November 04, 2000
Beech-Archive.digest.vol-ac