Engines-Archive.digest.vol-ab
August 10, 2000 - April 20, 2001
please remove me from your lists
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD <John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil> |
Tedd,
Yes. This is typical for large 2 stroke Diesels used in trains etc.
John
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tedd McHenry [mailto:tedd(at)telus.net]
>Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 3:25 AM
>To: Engines List
>Subject: Engines-List: GAP Diesel
>
>
>I was looking at a photo of the GAP diesel yesterday when
>something struck
>me that I hadn't noticed before. The intake ports are at the
>bottom of the
>cylinders, and the exhaust ports are at the top. How does this work?
>
>The engine is described as a two-stroke diesel. But a typical
>two-stroke
>has the intake and exhaust ports at the bottom of the
>cylinder, on opposite
>sides. Does the GAP engine have poppet valves only for the exhaust?
>
>Tedd McHenry
>Surrey, BC
>tedd(at)telus.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <rolandbrown(at)sprintmail.com> |
This engine actually has 4 exhaust valves per cylinder and the intake is via
a port in the bottom of the cylinder which is uncovered when the piston is
up.
There is a good write up at Avweb's Oshkosh coverage.
See http://www.avweb.com/oshkosh/osh2000/articles/gapengine/
----- Original Message -----
From: Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD <John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil>
Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 9:02 AM
Subject: RE: Engines-List: GAP Diesel
>
> Tedd,
>
> Yes. This is typical for large 2 stroke Diesels used in trains etc.
>
> John
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Tedd McHenry [mailto:tedd(at)telus.net]
> >Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2000 3:25 AM
> >To: Engines List
> >Subject: Engines-List: GAP Diesel
> >
> >
> >
> >I was looking at a photo of the GAP diesel yesterday when
> >something struck
> >me that I hadn't noticed before. The intake ports are at the
> >bottom of the
> >cylinders, and the exhaust ports are at the top. How does this work?
> >
> >The engine is described as a two-stroke diesel. But a typical
> >two-stroke
> >has the intake and exhaust ports at the bottom of the
> >cylinder, on opposite
> >sides. Does the GAP engine have poppet valves only for the exhaust?
> >
> >Tedd McHenry
> >Surrey, BC
> >tedd(at)telus.net
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ Ide" <av8r(at)triconet.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest, Ultralight-List Digest |
please unsubscribe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JRiley94(at)aol.com |
I'm wondering if anyone out there might know what happened to XP Industries.
They were building the XP-360 using Superior parts. I contacted them a
couple years ago about an engine for my RV and now that I need an engine I
can't get ahold of them.
Thanks, Jim Riley #22755
jriley94(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobertR237(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 8/13/00 6:48:36 PM Central Daylight Time, JRiley94(at)aol.com
writes:
>
> I'm wondering if anyone out there might know what happened to XP
Industries.
>
> They were building the XP-360 using Superior parts. I contacted them a
> couple years ago about an engine for my RV and now that I need an engine I
> can't get ahold of them.
>
> Thanks, Jim Riley #22755
> jriley94(at)aol.com
>
>
Superior and Mattituck entered into an agreement that Superior would be
producing the XP-360 with Mattituck assembling and selling the engine.
Superior has not confirmed their intention to sell the engine as a kit and so
the only apparent source for the time being appears to be Mattituck.
That was the bad news, now for the good news / bad news.
Mattituck will be selling the engine for $19,900 complete with all
accessories. Deliveries are scheduled to start within the month. (Last I
heard.) You can option the engine with light weight accessories, FADIC, and
they are working on a 200hp upgrade as well. (Est. $2000 for upgrade to 200
hp.)
I am currently talking with them on a configuration that includes the upgrade
to 200 hp (cold air induction, cam and piston change), a FADIC system with
light weight starter and alternator. System includes all electrical and
engine monitoring electronics as well as backup battery and electric fuel
pump. The estimated cost for engine and all accessories including
installation and test setup would be under $28K. Not Cheap but not too bad
for brand new engine with FADIC system.
Bob Reed,
KIS Cruiser Project at http://RobertR237.virtualave.net/
You will find the details on the engine system on my web site.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
> In a message dated 8/13/00 6:48:36 PM Central Daylight Time,
JRiley94(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> >
> > I'm wondering if anyone out there might know what happened to XP
> Industries.
> >
> > They were building the XP-360 using Superior parts. I contacted them a
> > couple years ago about an engine for my RV and now that I need an
engine I
> > can't get ahold of them.
> >
> > Thanks, Jim Riley #22755
> > jriley94(at)aol.com
> >
> >
>
> Superior and Mattituck entered into an agreement that Superior would be
> producing the XP-360 with Mattituck assembling and selling the engine.
> Superior has not confirmed their intention to sell the engine as a kit and
so
> the only apparent source for the time being appears to be Mattituck.
>
> That was the bad news, now for the good news / bad news.
>
> Mattituck will be selling the engine for $19,900 complete with all
> accessories. Deliveries are scheduled to start within the month. (Last I
> heard.) You can option the engine with light weight accessories, FADIC,
and
> they are working on a 200hp upgrade as well. (Est. $2000 for upgrade to
200
> hp.)
>
> I am currently talking with them on a configuration that includes the
upgrade
> to 200 hp (cold air induction, cam and piston change), a FADIC system with
> light weight starter and alternator. System includes all electrical and
> engine monitoring electronics as well as backup battery and electric fuel
> pump. The estimated cost for engine and all accessories including
> installation and test setup would be under $28K. Not Cheap but not too
bad
> for brand new engine with FADIC system.
>
> Bob Reed,
> KIS Cruiser Project at http://RobertR237.virtualave.net/
>
> You will find the details on the engine system on my web site.
As far as I am concerned, the FADEC system is the best thing
that has happened to take 60 year old technology out of the dark ages.
Mr. Fred Martin, test pilot, flew in to ASH, where I had an opportunity
to study the system, and interview Mr. Martin.
I subsequently wrote an article on my findings.
Now if the engine manufacturers they took some of the outrageous
money they charge for these engines, and put it into R&D,
the rest of the engine might follow suit.
Archie Frangoudis,
Archie's Racing Service
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com> |
Archie opined:
> As far as I am concerned, the FADEC system is the best thing
> that has happened to take 60 year old technology out of the dark
> ages.
Pardon my ignorance, but what is FADEC? Lycosauers need all the help they
can get... is this part of it??
Johnny Johnson
49MM RV-3
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
FADEC: Full Authority Digital Engine Control
Engine regulation (primarily fuel control) accomplished by a "smart" electronic
unit rather than hydromechanical mean.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobertR237(at)aol.com |
In a message dated Mon, 14 Aug 2000 8:08:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time, "Johnny
Johnson" writes:
Archie opined:
> As far as I am concerned, the FADEC system is the best thing
> that has happened to take 60 year old technology out of the dark
> ages.
> Pardon my ignorance, but what is FADEC? Lycosauers
> need all the help they
> can get... is this part of it??
> Johnny Johnson
> 49MM RV-3
FADEC - Fully Automatic Digital Engine Control
If you will check on my website you will find the details on both the XP-360 engine
and the Aerosance FADEC system. It explains it much better than I can.
It does indeed bring those beasts into the 21st Century, brings better fuel economy,
better overall engine management and reduces pilot workload. The one draw
back, it's related to aviation and therefore cost some big bucks. Payback
should be in about 1/2 engine TBO though.
Bob Reed
http://RobertR237.virtualave.net/
Check under MY PROGRESS, ENGINE.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RobertR237(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 8/14/00 9:17:13 AM Central Daylight Time,
RobertR237(at)aol.com writes:
>
> FADEC - Fully Automatic Digital Engine Control
>
> I
Correction, for some reason the "Fully Automatic" sticks in my mind. The
correct wording should be "Full Authority Digital Engine Control".
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul Sharpe" <fly601(at)home.com> |
----- Original Message ----- > > As far as I am concerned, the FADEC system
is the best thing
> > that has happened to take 60 year old technology out of the dark
> > ages.
>
> Pardon my ignorance, but what is FADEC? Lycosauers need all the help they
> can get... is this part of it??
>
> Johnny Johnson
> 49MM RV-3
FADEC is an acronym meaning "Full Authority Digital Engine Control." Also
called simply an "electronic control unit", basically it's a computer that
provides complete engine management. FADEC systems have been used for a
number of years on turbine engines such as the CFM-56; now they're
available for many common piston engines. You'll see ads in several
aviation magazines such as Sport Aviation.
Paul Sharpe, Guelph, Ontario, Canada
CH601 (finally sitting on it's wheels; even the neighbours recognize it now
as an airplane.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Johnny Johnson" <Johnny(at)wiktel.com> |
Thanks, everyone.... it sounds like FADEC is what car engines have had for
over 10 years...
Johnny Johnson
49MM RV-3
> FADEC is an acronym meaning "Full Authority Digital Engine Control." Also
> called simply an "electronic control unit", basically it's a computer that
> provides complete engine management.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Emrath" <Emrath(at)home.com> |
Another builder and fellow EAA Chapter member here has serial number 1 that
he purchased as a kit from Superior before the Mattituck deal, I believe.
He says the engine is supposed to produce 195 HP with carb, vs claims of
higher HP with fuel injection. Don't know that 200HP will make that much
difference, but I for one would like fuel injection. The plane is not flying
yet.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RobertR237(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: XP-360
>
> In a message dated 8/13/00 6:48:36 PM Central Daylight Time,
JRiley94(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> >
> > I'm wondering if anyone out there might know what happened to XP
> Industries.
> >
> > They were building the XP-360 using Superior parts. I contacted them a
> > couple years ago about an engine for my RV and now that I need an
engine I
> > can't get ahold of them.
> >
> > Thanks, Jim Riley #22755
> > jriley94(at)aol.com
> >
> >
>
> Superior and Mattituck entered into an agreement that Superior would be
> producing the XP-360 with Mattituck assembling and selling the engine.
> Superior has not confirmed their intention to sell the engine as a kit and
so
> the only apparent source for the time being appears to be Mattituck.
>
> That was the bad news, now for the good news / bad news.
>
> Mattituck will be selling the engine for $19,900 complete with all
> accessories. Deliveries are scheduled to start within the month. (Last I
> heard.) You can option the engine with light weight accessories, FADIC,
and
> they are working on a 200hp upgrade as well. (Est. $2000 for upgrade to
200
> hp.)
>
> I am currently talking with them on a configuration that includes the
upgrade
> to 200 hp (cold air induction, cam and piston change), a FADIC system with
> light weight starter and alternator. System includes all electrical and
> engine monitoring electronics as well as backup battery and electric fuel
> pump. The estimated cost for engine and all accessories including
> installation and test setup would be under $28K. Not Cheap but not too
bad
> for brand new engine with FADIC system.
>
> Bob Reed,
> KIS Cruiser Project at http://RobertR237.virtualave.net/
>
> You will find the details on the engine system on my web site.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "roninc" <roninc(at)onramp.net> |
I am holding in my hands the just released brochure from Mattituck on the
XP-360, which I am looking at for my RV-8.
Base price $19.9k
w/Bendix injection $22.4k
w/Bendix @ 200 hp $24,400
All above with 250 hour 2.5 year "full parts and labor"
They have some additional warranty options going to 5 year 500 hour. Seem
willing to let you mix and match, delete parts (like a mag) etc.
Don't know if the if the warranty is enough to overcome the Millennium
Cylinders they use??
What's the word on Millennium cylinders on a 360?
Another builder and fellow EAA Chapter member here has serial number 1 that
he purchased as a kit from Superior before the Mattituck deal, I believe.
He says the engine is supposed to produce 195 HP with carb, vs claims of
higher HP with fuel injection. Don't know that 200HP will make that much
difference, but I for one would like fuel injection. The plane is not flying
yet.
Marty in Brentwood TN.
----- Original Message -----
From: <RobertR237(at)aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2000 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: XP-360
>
> In a message dated 8/13/00 6:48:36 PM Central Daylight Time,
JRiley94(at)aol.com
> writes:
>
> >
> > I'm wondering if anyone out there might know what happened to XP
> Industries.
> >
> > They were building the XP-360 using Superior parts. I contacted them a
> > couple years ago about an engine for my RV and now that I need an
engine I
> > can't get ahold of them.
> >
> > Thanks, Jim Riley #22755
> > jriley94(at)aol.com
> >
> >
>
> Superior and Mattituck entered into an agreement that Superior would be
> producing the XP-360 with Mattituck assembling and selling the engine.
> Superior has not confirmed their intention to sell the engine as a kit and
so
> the only apparent source for the time being appears to be Mattituck.
>
> That was the bad news, now for the good news / bad news.
>
> Mattituck will be selling the engine for $19,900 complete with all
> accessories. Deliveries are scheduled to start within the month. (Last I
> heard.) You can option the engine with light weight accessories, FADIC,
and
> they are working on a 200hp upgrade as well. (Est. $2000 for upgrade to
200
> hp.)
>
> I am currently talking with them on a configuration that includes the
upgrade
> to 200 hp (cold air induction, cam and piston change), a FADIC system with
> light weight starter and alternator. System includes all electrical and
> engine monitoring electronics as well as backup battery and electric fuel
> pump. The estimated cost for engine and all accessories including
> installation and test setup would be under $28K. Not Cheap but not too
bad
> for brand new engine with FADIC system.
>
> Bob Reed,
> KIS Cruiser Project at http://RobertR237.virtualave.net/
>
> You will find the details on the engine system on my web site.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "EXT-Richard, Emmanuelle J" <Emmanuelle.Richard(at)PSS.Boeing.com> |
| Subject: | Bendix fuel injection |
> Size of fuel injection lines (flow divider to nozzles)
>
> Apparently they are available in sizes #2, 3 or 4. Anybody knows what are the
factors to consider in making the choice? What is most commonly used?
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Hirth for sale |
I have a Hirth 2706 65 hp 2 cycle fuel injected engine for sale. It's too
big for my project. Brand new still in the box. Complete just like it was
shipped from the distributor. $4,700.00
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | larry laporte <llapo(at)dmv.com> |
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| From: | Robert Fish <roblfish(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Matronics Network Connection Stable... |
Unsubscribe, thank you
Matt Dralle wrote:
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> There was a problem with the Internet connection to Matronics for about
> 24 hours. This was observed as slow connection response to the Web
> server and problems accessing pages like the Archives and Search Engine,
> and delays in receiving List messages.
>
> A problem was identified with the firewall and it has been addressed.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Admin.
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
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> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
> Great minds discuss ideas,
> Average minds discuss events,
> Small minds discuss people...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aviation Swap Meet |
Lister:
Just thought I would let you know that an Aviation Swap Meet is
scheduled for Sunday Morning, Sept 10, 2000. Location:
Nut Tree Airport, California. Look at
www.Solanopilots.com for more information.
Dave Aronson
RV4 firwall forward Yeaaaa!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Aronson <aronsond(at)pacbell.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Aviation Swap Meet |
Listers:
I wanted to let all the lists know that there is an AVIATION SWAP MEET
on Sunday, September 10, 2000 at 6:00am at the NUT TREE airport in
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA (Vacaville). Go to htttp://www.solanopilots.com for
more information.
David Aronson
RV4 Firewall forward at last!!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
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| Subject: | To: "'engines-list-digest(at)matronics.com'" |
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| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 08/24/00 |
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| Subject: | Very Rough O-235 |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)telus.net> |
I have an O-235 in a Druine Turbi that is running very badly. I have a
couple of hypotheses about the problem, but I thought I'd just post the
symptoms and see what other's have to say. If you have any insight into the
problem, please post it.
I first noticed the problem on a flight about a week and a half ago.
Shortly before landing, the engine seemed a bit rough. It was approaching
dark, and the field has no lights, so I didn't have time to try anything,
other than putting on carb heat for the circuit.
Someone else flew the airplane for about an hour a few days later, but I
don't know what he experienced.
Yesterday (Sunday), I changed the oil, which was due. Then I took the plane
for a one-circuit test flight. The roughness I noticed on the previous trip
was still there. I had a cross-country planned for that afternoon, and
decided to go anyway.
Right from take-off it seemed rough. Conditions were ripe for carb ice, so
I worked the carb heat, and at first it seemed to help. Carb heat on,
engine gets smoother, carb heat off it gets rough again. About twenty
minutes into the trip, and after moving into dryer air, I was convinced that
the roughness was getting worse, and carb heat no longer seemed to help.
There was a pronounced knocking or pounding sound, not unlike the sound of a
bad rod bearing, but lower--more of a thunk than a clank. But the oil
pressure was normal (70 psi). I made a precautionary landing at a nearby
airfield.
Fortunately, there happened to be an AME at the airport that day. He sat in
the plane and agreed that it felt rough. Roughness was present anywhere
above 1500 RPM, and was worse as RPM increased. However, the AME said he
couldn't hear anything abnormal from outside the airplane. It pulled 2300
static RPM, and we were at a field elevation of 250 feet. (Before the
roughness started, it pulled 2350 static RPM at my home field, elevation 10
feet.) We did a mag check, but the results didn't seem to clarify anything.
Right mag off, the engine got smoother but not totally smooth. Left mag off
produced the same result, though it felt smoother than witht he right mag
off. RPM drop was 75-100 for each mag.
We considered the possibility that it was an airframe vibration, and tried
several things including, eventually, completely removing the cowling and
ground-running it. No change in the vibration. At one point I taxied out
to do a circuit, then came back because it was still rough. After some more
checks, and without learning much new, I (foolishly) decided to try a
circuit again. There was no improvement in the engine but, since we hadn't
actually found anything wrong, I think I had started to convince myself that
it wasn't anything serious. I was trying to decide if I would fly it home
or not.
On run up it was normal, except for the roughness. Power seemed normal at
take off, and the airplane accelerated and climbed normally, near as I could
tell. But the roughness was still there. For some reason I still don't
understand, I decided to do a touch-and-go to another circuit. Right after
lift off it suddenly got much rougher, and I believe it lost power. I
immediately put the nose down and started to pull back power, thinking to
abort the take off. But I quickly saw that there was insufficient runway
left, and nothing but trees at the end. I put the power back up and started
a shallow turn to a tight downwind. I got about 200 feet, and power was
definitely below normal. I concentrated on maintaining reasonable airspeed
(80 mph) and setting up a tight circuit back to the departure runway, so I
didn't have time to analyze much. About all I was able to note was that the
oil pressure was still normal.
I made the field and taxied back. It was definitely rougher at RPM but, as
before, the roughness wasn't apparent at idle.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
tedd(at)telus.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Very Rough O-235 |
Better start with a preliminary plug check.
While there, a compression,(or leakdown), will
not hurt. I have seen similar symptoms due to
minor lead particles. A run-up does not always
show this condition. Would be interested in your findings.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Very Rough O-235 |
Archie:
Thanks for your reply.
>Better start with a preliminary plug check.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that the AME pulled the bottom plugs. We found
some lead, but he didn't feel it was enough to cause a problem. We cleaned
the plugs, and there was no change in the symptoms. We didn't look at the
top plugs, though.
>While there, a compression,(or leakdown), will
>not hurt. I have seen similar symptoms due to
>minor lead particles. A run-up does not always
>show this condition. Would be interested in your findings.
According to the AME, the compression felt and sounde normal when he turned
it over by hand. But I'll do proper check when I can.
This will take me some time to analyze and repair, as the airplane is now tied
down at a somewhat remote airfield. But I'll keep sending messages as I learn
new things (assuming I do).
Tedd
=================================================================
Internet service provided by telus.net http://www.telus.net/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Very Rough O-235 |
>Sounds like it's running too lean
--snip--
>Does it get better at altitude?
If anything, it seemed to get worse with altitude. But there are some confounding
variables: change of dew point (icing conditions) and length of time running
(i.e. it might have gotten worse in the climb simply because whatever's causing
it was getting worse).
If it were a lean mixture, why would running on one mag make it smoother?
>Do you have a boost pump? Is the engine driven pump failing or partially
>blocked? (Sometimes o-rings swell - check the ADs.)
No, it's a gravity-feed system. I should havel also mentioned that it a Marvel-Schebler
carb. That might mean something to somebody.
Also, there has been no engine work on this airplane since its annual last
year. However, it was down for 2-3 months for a major airframe mod earlier
this summer, and during that time the fuel tank and valve were removed. We
were pretty careful about cleaning everything up to and including the gascolator,
but contamination is possible. (While on the subject of fuel, I guess I should
also mention that the airplane had a full tank of fuel from a well used--i.e.
recently filled--pump, and the fuel showed no signs of water or contamination.)
Tedd
=================================================================
Internet service provided by telus.net http://www.telus.net/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Very Rough O-235 |
Jim:
>The symptoms you describe are almost identical to the ones I experienced on
>my O-290 when a main bearing stopped getting oil. That is, normal oil
>pressure and a rough running engine (like carb ice).
Thanks, that's very helpful. I hope that isn't the problem, but I will certainly
check it out.
The engine just had an oil change the morning of the last flight, but the roughness
had already started by then.
Tedd
=================================================================
Internet service provided by telus.net http://www.telus.net/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Very Rough O-235 |
Tedd, Is it better at low RPM, and runs rough when
the throttle is advanced?
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | CAM 100 first run! |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <gfcorriv(at)total.net> |
----------
From: Grant Corriveau <gfcorriv(at)total.net>
Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2000 07:04:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Run-in
on 9/11/00 10:19 AM, R.L. Masters at rlm@aero-engines.bc.ca wrote:
> Grant,
> We have done all the run in here on the dyno.You can go ahead and fly it
> now. Just ease off a bit after take for the first 4 or 5 hours. You can't
> hurt that engine if you keep your temperatures and oil pressure in range.
> I'll try to get more information on the tach signal for you today.
> Cheers, Bob
>
>
Thanks Bob. That saves me some time and complexities in getting flying.
I was just reviewing the video my wife took of my first engine start. The
smoke rising off the new paint is quite impressive - especially when there's
no prop to blow it away! I had to stop after a moment or two and just look
again to make sure it wasn't coming from a head gasket leak... but it
wasn't, and it all cleared after a couple more minutes.
The oil pressure is excellent at 50-60 psi. Nice sound too with just the
header. Now that I've heard it, I probably won't fuss with a muffler until
after I've got it flying.
Regards,
Grant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vendor48(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 09/11/00 |
In a message dated 12-Sep-00 1:55:05 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
engines-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< I have an O-235 in a Druine Turbi that is running very badly >>
Something to check, considering tank work. Helped Dad rebuild a 170 that was
down for a while. Long story short, found a spider web in a wing root vent
line. It was restricting enough to cause the top of the tank to visibly pull
down, with the vac created!!! Not good! If we had made a longer flight
before finding the problem the situation could have caused starvation.
Opening the tank to check fuel level, tipped us off, as the air sucked into
the tank. JR
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Milton J." <ateam(at)foothill.net> |
"Engines-List Digest Server"
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 09/11/00 |
Tedd
The symptoms are classic, and probably can be mitigated by extreme hard
leaning of the fuel at hi RPM (read FULL throttle rpm leaned down to about
1800) Your roughness is most probably due to a stuck or broken ring..
Your oil consumption is probably high.. pull the lower plugs and check for
oil fouling not just carbon.. This is sometimes curable, if a stuck ring,
by flying it with "AvBlend" in the oil (FAA approved) for 5 to 10 hrs.
Had this happen in a Beech Skipper this summer.. Started as a random
roughness in flight, cured by careful leaning, and about 10 hrs later
finally got to loss of power in the pattern. Borescoped the jugs, and #2&4
were scuffed.. After 5 hrs of AvBlend, #2 stopped fouling the plug, but #4
plug was still black. We pulled #4 and found the broken oil ring,
Good luck,
Milt
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 09/11/00 |
In a message dated 09/12/2000 1:55:05 AM Central Daylight Time,
engines-list-digest(at)matronics.com writes:
<< __________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630)
Subject: Engines-List: Very Rough O-235
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)telus.net>
I have an O-235 in a Druine Turbi that is running very badly. I have a
couple of hypotheses about the problem, but I thought I'd just post the
symptoms and see what other's have to say. If you have any insight into the
problem, please post it.
I first noticed the problem on a flight about a week and a half ago.
Shortly before landing, the engine seemed a bit rough. It was approaching
dark, and the field has no lights, so I didn't have time to try anything,
other than putting on carb heat for the circuit.
Someone else flew the airplane for about an hour a few days later, but I
don't know what he experienced.
Yesterday (Sunday), I changed the oil, which was due. Then I took the plane
for a one-circuit test flight. The roughness I noticed on the previous trip
was still there. I had a cross-country planned for that afternoon, and
decided to go anyway.
Right from take-off it seemed rough. Conditions were ripe for carb ice, so
I worked the carb heat, and at first it seemed to help. Carb heat on,
engine gets smoother, carb heat off it gets rough again. About twenty
minutes into the trip, and after moving into dryer air, I was convinced that
the roughness was getting worse, and carb heat no longer seemed to help.
There was a pronounced knocking or pounding sound, not unlike the sound of a
bad rod bearing, but lower--more of a thunk than a clank. But the oil
pressure was normal (70 psi). I made a precautionary landing at a nearby
airfield.
Fortunately, there happened to be an AME at the airport that day. He sat in
the plane and agreed that it felt rough. Roughness was present anywhere
above 1500 RPM, and was worse as RPM increased. However, the AME said he
couldn't hear anything abnormal from outside the airplane. It pulled 2300
static RPM, and we were at a field elevation of 250 feet. (Before the
roughness started, it pulled 2350 static RPM at my home field, elevation 10
feet.) We did a mag check, but the results didn't seem to clarify anything.
Right mag off, the engine got smoother but not totally smooth. Left mag off
produced the same result, though it felt smoother than witht he right mag
off. RPM drop was 75-100 for each mag.
We considered the possibility that it was an airframe vibration, and tried
several things including, eventually, completely removing the cowling and
ground-running it. No change in the vibration. At one point I taxied out
to do a circuit, then came back because it was still rough. After some more
checks, and without learning much new, I (foolishly) decided to try a
circuit again. There was no improvement in the engine but, since we hadn't
actually found anything wrong, I think I had started to convince myself that
it wasn't anything serious. I was trying to decide if I would fly it home
or not.
On run up it was normal, except for the roughness. Power seemed normal at
take off, and the airplane accelerated and climbed normally, near as I could
tell. But the roughness was still there. For some reason I still don't
understand, I decided to do a touch-and-go to another circuit. Right after
lift off it suddenly got much rougher, and I believe it lost power. I
immediately put the nose down and started to pull back power, thinking to
abort the take off. But I quickly saw that there was insufficient runway
left, and nothing but trees at the end. I put the power back up and started
a shallow turn to a tight downwind. I got about 200 feet, and power was
definitely below normal. I concentrated on maintaining reasonable airspeed
(80 mph) and setting up a tight circuit back to the departure runway, so I
didn't have time to analyze much. About all I was able to note was that the
oil pressure was still normal.
I made the field and taxied back. It was definitely rougher at RPM but, as
before, the roughness wasn't apparent at idle.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
tedd(at)telus.net
>>
I might suggest you look into your muffler. Although this isn't a guarantee,
a faulty muffler will do exactly what you describe. What happens is that the
perforated lining breaks loose, and partially blocks the exhaust pipe. This
can, and has, caused complete engine stoppage. Also, if the lining breaks
completely loose and departs, it disrupts the back pressure engineered into
the system, also able to cause roughness, especially at lower power setting.
I would be interested in knowing what you finally find.
Ed Woerle (A&P, IA)
Memphis, TN
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | n3773 <n3773(at)mciworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 09/11/00 |
Engines-List Digest Server
Tedd, I had a difficult problem to debug when I was losing up to 1000
rpm(which results in some serious kicking and forced landings). It, too,
wouldn't reveal much on the ground. It turns out one of the brand new plugs
would fail upon heating up. Otherwise things looked like an overly lean
mixture. I was finally able to chase it down with EGT temps and rotating
plugs. Fortunately I was flying out of a 5,000' runway for testing.
Be sure to check the screen filter in the carb where the fuel line
attaches too, an easy check.
kevin lane N3773, RV-6A
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
"Engines-List Digest Server"
| Subject: | Marvel 4-5 carb for sale |
I have a new in box never used MA 4-5 carburator for sale since I have decided
to use an Ellison TBI system for my 0-360. $1200
Dave Ford
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630)
| Subject: | Re: Very Rough O-235 |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)telus.net> |
I found the problem. Once I saw it, I was amazed that it took so long to
see. What happened was that all the studs at the base of the number 3
cylinder had snapped--there was nothing holding the cylinder to the case
except the manifolds, baffling, and pushrod tubes! The cylinder had popped
out of its hole by about 3/16 of an inch.
Now another question: What should I do? Part of me wants to just remove
the cylinder, replace the studs, reassemble it and fly it home. But part of
me would like to see the engine come apart and be fully inspected. Anybody
have an opinion on that?
The engine log shows that all four cylinders were replaced (or
overhauled--can't remember which) about three years ago. I suspect the
studs on number three were either over-torqued or under-torqued, which
implies that other cylinders could have the same problem. So, as a minumum,
I think the other cylinders need to be checked a re-torqued, and maybe the
studs should NDT-ed.
I want to thank everyone who wrote with suggestions. I really thought I was
going to be giving a prize to Archie for his suggestion that it might be a
wrist pin; it seemed to fit all the symptoms. You'd think you'd notice a
cylinder with no nuts holding it on pretty quickly, but we were actually
there for over an hour looking at other things before I spotted it.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
tedd(at)telus.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Very Rough O-235 |
>
> I found the problem. Once I saw it, I was amazed that it took so long to
> see. What happened was that all the studs at the base of the number 3
> cylinder had snapped--there was nothing holding the cylinder to the case
> except the manifolds, baffling, and pushrod tubes! The cylinder had
popped
> out of its hole by about 3/16 of an inch.
>
> Now another question: What should I do? Part of me wants to just remove
> the cylinder, replace the studs, reassemble it and fly it home. But part
of
> me would like to see the engine come apart and be fully inspected.
Anybody
> have an opinion on that?
Since the cylinder must be removed in any event, you will have an
opportunity for a
cursory look inside. Most metal particles would have been formed by the
abrasive
action of the cylinder and studs working against each other.
A minimum flush should be performed with kerosene, or similar solvent, and
observe any particles being flushed. This should also be done after the
studs
have been replaced.
Hopefully no damage has incurred to the engine case or cylinder.
My guess is that you should have no additional problems.
A magnetic drain plug, (if you do not have one), would be a good idea in the
future.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
Engines-List Digest Server
| From: | "M T Barksdale" <skyranger(at)hartcom.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 09/21/00 |
At 02:54 AM 9/22/00, you wrote:
> _________________________
>From: "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net>
>Subject: Re: Engines-List: Very Rough O-235
>
>Woweee.... mystery solved ! ! ! I could not believe that the plane was
>being flown..... with a rough engine... It is one thing to reach and
>airport or even complete a flight with a rough engine.... but to
>dispatch with a rough engine..... Dumb, dumb, dumb, The Captain of
>that ship was very very lucky indeed. The Lord really smiled upon
>him. He was risking the plane not to mention his LIFE.
I was so impressed with the stupidity that I printed out the letter and
showed it to my navigator wife.
Do you know how I knew it was so stupid ? I have done it before. I have
made ALL the mistakes at least once or twice.
Glad it turned out well.
Mac Barksdale, DVM
4270 Aloma Ave Suite 124-33A
Winter Park, Florida 32792
skyranger(at)hartcom.net
407 342 0938
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "kempthornes" <kempthornes(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Very Rough O-235 |
Tedd,
I haven't seen anyone assist with this.
>
> I found the problem.
I think you have found a problem which is also a symptom of some prior
problem.
Something caused the cylinder to break all the studs which caused rough
running. I'd sure want to know what broke all the studs and I am very
suspicious that torking is it.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a N7HK
Once I saw it, I was amazed that it took so long to
> see. What happened was that all the studs at the base of the number 3
> cylinder had snapped--there was nothing holding the cylinder to the case
> except the manifolds, baffling, and pushrod tubes! The cylinder had
popped
> out of its hole by about 3/16 of an inch.
>
> Now another question: What should I do? Part of me wants to just remove
> the cylinder, replace the studs, reassemble it and fly it home. But part
of
> me would like to see the engine come apart and be fully inspected.
Anybody
> have an opinion on that?
>
> The engine log shows that all four cylinders were replaced (or
> overhauled--can't remember which) about three years ago. I suspect the
> studs on number three were either over-torqued or under-torqued, which
> implies that other cylinders could have the same problem. So, as a
minumum,
> I think the other cylinders need to be checked a re-torqued, and maybe the
> studs should NDT-ed.
>
> I want to thank everyone who wrote with suggestions. I really thought I
was
> going to be giving a prize to Archie for his suggestion that it might be a
> wrist pin; it seemed to fit all the symptoms. You'd think you'd notice a
> cylinder with no nuts holding it on pretty quickly, but we were actually
> there for over an hour looking at other things before I spotted it.
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
> tedd(at)telus.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Airplane online article - my 15 minutes of fame! |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <gfcorriv(at)total.net> |
Hi all,
Just to let you know that there's an online newsletter that features the
story of my aircraft construction project, to be found at the following
address:
http://www.photopoint.com/community/magazine/2000/september/flying.html
Who was it who said we each have 15 minutes of fame? Is this mine?
Cheers,
Grant
(p.s. the first photo of a finished Zodiac actually belongs to Iztok Salomon
of AIRNET in Slovenia. They supplied my cowling/radiator and engine mounts,
as well as the inspiration to install the CAM100 engine.)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | claude <claude.plathey(at)wanadoo.fr> |
Who knows where I can find spare parts for the Continental A65 ?
Thanks
Claude
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Warren Gretz <warrengretz(at)gretzaero.com> |
list-engines , list-ez ,
list-glasair
| Subject: | any 172's for sale? |
Hello List,
I have a good friend that is looking for an older Cessna 172 for sale.
If you know of anyone that has one, and it is in OK shape, please
contact me with the details.
Warren Gretz
Gretz Aero
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Lloyd Griffith <griffith(at)wlake.com> |
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Cowan <mjcowan(at)bellsouth.net> |
| Subject: | Any Geo/Suzuki Builders out there? |
>>With or without turbocharger?
I'm leaning toward the Raven redrive pusher setup.
Mike Cowan
BIrmingham, AL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | A Season of Giving - Please Support Your List! |
Dear Listers,
As my good friend Al Mojzisik from the RV-List forum has pointed out in
his humorous style this morning, its time for the Annual List Fund
Raiser! For those that are new to the Lists since last year, I'd like
to just mention what its all about. I have always run the List services
here completely free of charge to the members. This includes the Email
Lists, Archive Search Engine, as well as some of the other goodies found
on the servers. My policy has always been that I will never charge a
'fee' to sign up for any of the email Lists and I have also turned down
a number potentially lucrative of 'commercial' offers to provide
advertising space either on the various web pages or on in each of the
outgoing emails. I have always graciously declined these offers,
however, because I have felt that the friendly, homey feeling of the
commercial-free site was very appealing. I have also felt that offering
the services here for free is the best way to stimulate the greatest
membership, and in my opinion, this is the most important element in the
success of a forum such as this. So, once again, I will restate my
commitment to always keeping all of the services here on the Matronics
servers free to everyone.
That being said, I must also say that running this system is far from
free for me, however. I am continually trying to provide the best, most
reliable service possible and have continued to upgrade the systems as
necessary to maintain or improve the level of service I provide. Quite
aside from the "real costs" involved in the maintenance of a service
like this, however, is the time commitment necessary to keep everything
running and time required to produce new and improved software
enhancements to make the whole experience more enjoyable for everyone.
On the average I spend 10 to 20 hours a week handling subscription
requests and related problems, maintaining the existing computer code
base, and developing new utilities for the List community.
The whole List site (web server and email server) continue to run across
the 768kb/sec DSL-based Internet connection. Connections to the servers
have generally been pretty reliable and performance has been good. Up
time for the connection has approached the 99% mark.
If you regularly enjoy the services provided here, I would ask that you
make a Contribution in any amount in which you are comfortable. Your
Contribution will be used to directly support the continued operation
and improvement of all these services, and as always, I will turn your
Contributions back into more upgrades and improvements. It is truly an
investment in the future of these Lists.
To make a SSL Secure Web Contribution using your Visa or MasterCard,
please go to the following URL and follow the simple instructions:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution.html
To make a Contribution by check, please send US Mail to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
As I have done in the past, I will post a "Contributors List" at the end
of the Fund Raiser, personally acknowledging each and everyone that has
generously made a Contribution this year!
Finally, I just want to say *Thank You* to everyone that has supported
me and my operation here this year. Your support and encouragement
means a great deal to me and I feel like I have friends literally from
all around the world!
Sincerely,
Matt Dralle
Your Email List Administrator
dralle(at)matronics.com
============================================================================
>--------------
>--> RV-List message posted by: Al Mojzisik
>
>Well folks,
>
>I hate to spring this on you without much advance warning and all but it's
>November already. For you newer List members you may not know but this is
>the time of year we all give "thanks" for all that Matte Dralle has done
>for us with this RV-List. the customary way of saying "thanks" is with a
>voluntary donation of cash through Matte's own simple and safe contribution
>hot-line at:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>It's really rather painless and actually gives you a good warm and fuzzy
>feeling inside after you have made your contribution. Now last year I
>relied heavily on guilt to get some of you harder nuts to crack to ante
>up. This year I hope that in keeping with the election year theme I can
>learn something from the experts........"It's for the children."
>
>Yes your contribution will help children everywhere learn about the high
>moral values that are inherent in the RV family of aircraft. As our young
>charges surf the Internet for information on various things that we don't
>want them to know about, they may stumble across the Matronics Website and
>become aware of the RV-List and other interesting forums that Matte
>provides. This in turn may change there lives as they see what can be
>achieved through hard work and perseverance. They will learn how the polite
>exchange of idea's between consenting adults can result in the birth of one
>(or more) of the finest aircraft in existence today. They can become aware
>of a whole world out there that had previously been unknown or out of reach
>to them. So in the interest of our children, send your contribution to
>Matte to help the RV-List live long and prosper.............Darn, got my
>tongue caught in my cheek there for a moment.
>
>Once again, you can make your contribution through credit card at:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> c/o Matt Dralle
> Matronics
> P.O. Box 347
> Livermore, CA. 94551
>
>I would like to pledge at this time that I will not place any negative
>advertising in the hope of raising funds for RV-List support. (Unless you
>folks hold out too long, then look out!) Let's have a real clean campaign
>this November and get out the contributions! AL
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | List Fund Raiser Continues... |
Hello Listers!
This is just a reminder that the Annual List Fund Raiser is currently
underway. Won't you make a Contribution today to support the continued
operation and upgrade of this valuable resource? Your Contribution can
be made via a Secure SSL Internet Transaction with your Visa or
MasterCard at the URL shown below or you may send it via US Mail to the
address also listed below.
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
P.O. Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Thank you for your support! Your generosity directly makes this List
possible.
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | AP-IA Bookstore <winterland(at)rkymtnhi.com> |
| Subject: | 10% for Matronics |
AP-IA Bookstore and eCharts is happy to do again, what we did successfully
last year. That is to donate a portion of our sales for the month of
November to the maintenance of the engines-list.
10% FOR MATRONICS
Starting now, 10% of any purchase from either AP-IA Bookstore or eCharts
will be put aside as a donation to the engines list, as our thanks for this
excellent resource for AMTs and pilots. We will run this special
throughout November with a check for the total amount presented to Matt on
December 1st 2000.
To designate your share, please write the words "10% for Matronics" in the
Special Instructions box on the on-line order form. Or, if you order
something by phone, just tell me when you call.
Thank you Matt for this excellent service.
Andy Gold
AP-IA Bookstore (for A&P technicians, working and student)
http://AP-IAbooks.com
eCharts (VFR/IFR aviation charts and directories)
http://eCharts.cc
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLMJohnson(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Tuned intake & exhaust |
I learned a bit about exhausts and posted it on one of my web pages. It may
help.
http://www.geocities.com/plmjohnson/Exhaust/Exhaust.htm
Phillip Johnson
Cozy MK IV RG Powered by Subaru EG33
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway... |
Hi Listers,
Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway
and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your
contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The
continued operation and improvement of these services are directly
enabled by the generous contributions of its members.
You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using
the Matronics SSL Secure website at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or with a personal check to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Homebuilt-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway... |
--> Homebuilt-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Hi Listers,
Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway
and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your
contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The
continued operation and improvement of these services are directly
enabled by the generous contributions of its members.
You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using
the Matronics SSL Secure website at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or with a personal check to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Zenith-List: 2000 List Fund Raiser Underway... |
--> Zenith-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Hi Listers,
Just a quick reminder that the 2000 Email List Fund Raiser is underway
and participation so far as been good. If you haven't made your
contribution yet, won't you take a moment and make one today? The
continued operation and improvement of these services are directly
enabled by the generous contributions of its members.
You may make a contribution with either your Visa or Mastercard using
the Matronics SSL Secure website at:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
or with a personal check to:
c/o Matt Dralle
Matronics
PO Box 347
Livermore, CA 94551
Thank you to all those that have already made a contribution!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Huge Apology for "List Malfunction"... |
Dear Listers,
I am so embarrassed by the List-gone-crazy tonight! I'm not sure
exactly went wrong. I'm suspecting that someone with an email account
at msm.com may have been reposting my message from this morning over
and over again maliciously spamming the system, but I can't really
prove that.
In any case, I am hugely embarrassed and sorry for the ton of messages
that went out tonight regarding the 2000 Fund Raiser. Something went
wrong on the system or somebody did me wrong; in either case I
apologize for the huge dump of messages.
My sincerest apologies...
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | New List MIME/HTML/Enclosure Filter Implemented... |
Dear Listers,
With the pervasiveness of email applications using HTML (web formatting)
and MIME encoding such as AOL 6.0, Netscape, Eudora and others it was
clear that I needed to come up with an improved method for limiting how
messages posted to the various Lists was handled.
As of today, November 13 2000 you should be able to configure your email
program any way you like - with or without special formatting - and your
message will still be accepted my the Matronics system. Also, if you
include any sort of enclosure data, your message will also still be
accepted instead of bounced back.
But wait, it gets even better! Everything except for the plain text
will be automatically stripped from the incoming post including any
HTML, MIME, and/or enclosure data prior to redistribution. This should
serve to both ease the configuration burden on the many users, and to
increase the readability of both the posted messages and the archives.
I had a few 'bugs' with the filter on Sunday and Monday morning, so if
you received a few messages that seemed "odd", than this was probably
why.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630)
| Subject: | O-235: Removing Hydraulic Tappet Plungers |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)telus.net> |
I'm dismantling an O-235. The overhaul manual calls for a tool to remove
the hydraulic tappets (64941), which I don't have. The manual also suggests
using a fingertip (mine don't seem to fit) or with needle-nose pliers, which
I'm also not able to get to work. The manual says not to use a magnet,
which is exactly what I would otherwise have done. I guess the plungers can
get magnetized, causing the ball to remain off its seat.
I've tried greasing the end of a pushrod, hoping that the suction would pull
the plunger out, but no luck.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
tedd(at)telus.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swidersk(at)digital.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-235: Removing Hydraulic Tappet Plungers |
Tedd,
Try a small vacuum cup, like you hang things on windows with. They make
them quite small. If you sealed them with a light oil or grease, they may
pull even harder than wetting them with water. They will easily pull several
pounds. ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd(at)telus.net>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 8:21 PM
Subject: Engines-List: O-235: Removing Hydraulic Tappet Plungers
>
> I'm dismantling an O-235. The overhaul manual calls for a tool to remove
> the hydraulic tappets (64941), which I don't have. The manual also
suggests
> using a fingertip (mine don't seem to fit) or with needle-nose pliers,
which
> I'm also not able to get to work. The manual says not to use a magnet,
> which is exactly what I would otherwise have done. I guess the plungers
can
> get magnetized, causing the ball to remain off its seat.
>
> I've tried greasing the end of a pushrod, hoping that the suction would
pull
> the plunger out, but no luck.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions?
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
> tedd(at)telus.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: O-235: Removing Hydraulic Tappet Plungers |
>
> I'm dismantling an O-235. The overhaul manual calls for a tool to remove
> the hydraulic tappets (64941), which I don't have. The manual also
suggests
> using a fingertip (mine don't seem to fit) or with needle-nose pliers,
which
> I'm also not able to get to work. The manual says not to use a magnet,
> which is exactly what I would otherwise have done. I guess the plungers
can
> get magnetized, causing the ball to remain off its seat.
USE THE MAGNET IF IT WILL HELP YOU, PASS THE PLUNGER THROUGH
THE "V" ON AN ARMATURE GROWLER TO DEMAGNETIZE IF IT PICKS
ANY UP. A LITTLE GASOLINE PUMPED INTO THE PLUNGER WILL REDUCE
THE VISCOSITY AND ASSIST IN RELEASE.
>
> I've tried greasing the end of a pushrod, hoping that the suction would
pull
> the plunger out, but no luck.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions?
>
> Tedd McHenry
> Surrey, BC
> tedd(at)telus.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim Ivey <jim(at)jimivey.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Yak-List: New List MIME/HTML/Enclosure Filter Implemented... |
Everything you need to know can be found at the following url:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution/
I just used the secure credit-card option. There is also a snail-mail
address for you old-fashioned types (i.e. back in the good old days when
folks wouldn't abscond with your credit card info) ;)
Jim Ivey
N46YK
Matt Dralle wrote:
> --> Yak-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> With the pervasiveness of email applications using HTML (web formatting)
> and MIME encoding such as AOL 6.0, Netscape, Eudora and others it was
> clear that I needed to come up with an improved method for limiting how
> messages posted to the various Lists was handled.
>
> As of today, November 13 2000 you should be able to configure your email
> program any way you like - with or without special formatting - and your
> message will still be accepted my the Matronics system. Also, if you
> include any sort of enclosure data, your message will also still be
> accepted instead of bounced back.
>
> But wait, it gets even better! Everything except for the plain text
> will be automatically stripped from the incoming post including any
> HTML, MIME, and/or enclosure data prior to redistribution. This should
> serve to both ease the configuration burden on the many users, and to
> increase the readability of both the posted messages and the archives.
>
> I had a few 'bugs' with the filter on Sunday and Monday morning, so if
> you received a few messages that seemed "odd", than this was probably
> why.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt Dralle
> Matronics Email List Admin.
>
> --
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
> Great minds discuss ideas,
> Average minds discuss events,
> Small minds discuss people...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Mehalek" <lycon(at)lycon.com> |
| Subject: | Re: O-235: Removing Hydraulic Tappet Plungers |
Maybe I can help with this O-235 lifter problem. You will not get the
hydraulic plungers out of a solid lifter. 235 lifters do not have plungers.
Have you noticed the rocker arms are adjustable? No plunger!
Thanks,
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Monday, November 13, 2000 7:05 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: O-235: Removing Hydraulic Tappet Plungers
>
>
> >
> > I'm dismantling an O-235. The overhaul manual calls for a tool to
remove
> > the hydraulic tappets (64941), which I don't have. The manual also
> suggests
> > using a fingertip (mine don't seem to fit) or with needle-nose pliers,
> which
> > I'm also not able to get to work. The manual says not to use a magnet,
> > which is exactly what I would otherwise have done. I guess the plungers
> can
> > get magnetized, causing the ball to remain off its seat.
>
> USE THE MAGNET IF IT WILL HELP YOU, PASS THE PLUNGER THROUGH
> THE "V" ON AN ARMATURE GROWLER TO DEMAGNETIZE IF IT PICKS
> ANY UP. A LITTLE GASOLINE PUMPED INTO THE PLUNGER WILL REDUCE
> THE VISCOSITY AND ASSIST IN RELEASE.
> >
> > I've tried greasing the end of a pushrod, hoping that the suction would
> pull
> > the plunger out, but no luck.
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions?
> >
> > Tedd McHenry
> > Surrey, BC
> > tedd(at)telus.net
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jeff Point <jpoint(at)mindspring.com> |
Does anyone out there have some drawings or good photos of VW
cylinders? Looking to make some 1/4 scale dummy cylinders for a 1/4
scale model.
Jeff Point
jpoint(at)mindspring.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Continental PE/90 |
I would like to know where to go to get specifications of a Continental PE/90
engine. This engine came from a GPR. It has only a single sparkplug per
cylinder. I am considering this engine for the Pietenpol that I'm building.
What I would like to know is weight of engine without the flywheel. What is
the bore, stroke, etc. that would help determine the size of propellor the
enginge can handle.
Any comments on the suitability of this engine for my intended purpose?
Thanks, Allan
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630)
| Subject: | Re: O-235: Removing Hydraulic Tappet Plungers |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)telus.net> |
>
> Maybe I can help with this O-235 lifter problem. You will not get the
> hydraulic plungers out of a solid lifter. 235 lifters do not have plungers.
> Have you noticed the rocker arms are adjustable? No plunger!
D'oh! You're right! That's what happens when you spend too much time
looking at the book (and you're using a book made for more than one engine),
and not enough time looking at the engine.
Thanks,
Tedd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Broste" <spiritmoves(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Kolb-List: What Listers Are Saying... |
Matt,
I think what you're doing is great for those of us flying and building Kolb
aircraft. You're probably saving Kolb a full time employee in tech support
just by providing the communication between builders. I know I have had a
half dozen questions answered here on the list and saved Kolb support a few
phone calls. You should forward this letter to Kolb, maybe they'd ante up,
too. It would be great PR for the TN Kolb a/c. Thanks a bunch, Matt!
Ken Broste
Building a Firestar
Tucson, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle(at)matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 10:33 AM
Subject: Kolb-List: What Listers Are Saying...
> --> Kolb-List message posted by: dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>
>
> Dear Listers,
>
> During this year's List Fund Raiser I have been receiving a number of
> very nice comments from members regarding what the Lists mean to them.
> I'm sure most everyone can echo one or more of the thoughts expressed
> below. Won't you take a moment to make a Contribution to support the
> continued operation and improvment of your Lists?
>
> A special 'thank you' to everyone that has made a contribution so far
> and for all of the wonderful and supportive comments I've received!
>
>
> To make a contribution with a credit card over an SSL Secure Web Site,
> please go to the following URL:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
> or, to make a contribution with a person check, please mail it to:
>
> Matronics
> c/o Matt Dralle
> PO Box 347
> Livermore, CA 94551
>
>
> Thank you!!
>
> Matt Dralle
> Email List Admin.
>
>
> ===================== Comments From List Members
========================
>
>
> * You helped make this dream a reality... -Terry C.
>
> * Thanks for a wonderful resource! -Rick J.
>
> * Thanks for providing a quality product. -Bill C.
>
> * Have found [the List] invaluable for education while building... -Rick
H.
>
>
> * I learn so much from the List! -Robert R.
>
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o. -Roger H.
>
> * I enjoy the pages and find them very helpful. -Noel G.
>
> * The "List" is a great place to both receive and exten help and ideas
for
> building and making flying safer. -Jack B.
>
>
> * The discussions are very helpful. -James B.
>
> * ...I believe this List will be a better value than the
ewsletter. -Roger T.
>
> * [The List] has helped me with the construction of my RV-9. -Marty S.
>
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>
>
> * [The List] has saved me many hour on wild goose chases. -Billy W.
>
> * Thanks for keeping my passion for flying as piqued as ever. -Terry W.
>
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>
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>
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ask. -Louis W.
>
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>
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uilding. -Craig P.
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>
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>
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>
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>
>
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>
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>
> * Thanks for letting me use the site. It's great! -Larry M.
>
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>
>
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riends. -Fred H.
>
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>
> * Love both the List and the Search Engine. -Roy G.
>
>
> ===================== Comments From List Members
========================
>
>
> --
>
>
> Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
> 925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
> http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
>
> Great minds discuss ideas,
> Average minds discuss events,
> Small minds discuss people...
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ashley & Margaret Johnston" <Jabiru.nz(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Members,
It is firstly a home builder and sport flyer that I am writing to your group
with some information many may find interesting.
I have been privileged to represent Jabiru Pty Ltd in New Zealand since
bringing the first Jabiru Aircraft here almost six years ago. Presently
Jabiru Engines are available and landed at most world Custom Clearance
Airports at:-
2200 cc 80 hp @ $6400 US
3300 cc 120 hp @ $9450 US
All Engines are shipped fully insured and fitted complete with:-
Oil Cooler
Full exhaust system including in Cowl muffler
Starter and Starter Solenoid
Alternator and Voltage Regulator
VDO Oil Pressure Sender
VDO Oil Temperature Sender
F. F. Kits are manufactured by Jabiru for a large range of Sport Aircraft
Kindest regards
Ashley Johnston
Jabiru New Zealand (064) 3 302 7197
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <rich(at)carol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tuned intake & exhaust |
Found a what looks like a practically new EJ25 at...
2000 Subaru Legacy Engine 9K 2.5L VIN 6 MT/5SPD $2500 Stock ID# P20380
Shaw Auto Parts
1-800-888-9495 E-mail
USA-Idaho
shaw(at)shawautoparts.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vendor48(at)aol.com |
<< Presently Jabiru Engines are available and landed at most world Custom
Clearance Airports at:-
2200 cc 80 hp @ $6400 US
3300 cc 120 hp @ $9450 US >>
Have they produced an engine that will develop these HP ratings, at normal
prop RPM? All the numbers I have seen might indicate their use would be
limited to high speed AC applications, using small prop diameter and high
pitch (like a KR for instance). Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
Hi All...
Here is some new information I received from Jabiru last month... They have
a new engine in development, I will be looking into it for use in my RV.
8 Cyl version of the current engine...
These are projected figers.
@3000rpm gives 200hp
@2750rpm gives 185hp
The engine will weigh 105kg
The engine is still on paper at the moment. It might be 6 months it could be
longer. It is a little unknown
Bill VonDane, Colorado Springs, CO
RV-8A, N8VD, Fuselage
http://vondane.com/rv8a/
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Vendor48(at)aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 23, 2000 8:11 AM
Subject: Engines-List: jabiru
<< Presently Jabiru Engines are available and landed at most world Custom
Clearance Airports at:-
2200 cc 80 hp @ $6400 US
3300 cc 120 hp @ $9450 US >>
Have they produced an engine that will develop these HP ratings, at normal
prop RPM? All the numbers I have seen might indicate their use would be
limited to high speed AC applications, using small prop diameter and high
pitch (like a KR for instance). Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
Bill VonDane wrote:
> Here is some new information I received from Jabiru last month... They have
> a new engine in development, I will be looking into it for use in my RV.
>
> 8 Cyl version of the current engine...
> These are projected figers.
>
> @3000rpm gives 200hp
> @2750rpm gives 185hp
>
> The engine will weigh 105kg
>
> The engine is still on paper at the moment. It might be 6 months it could be
> longer. It is a little unknown
I got similar info from Jabiru. They said (a couple of days ago) that
they've just started the machining on the new engine. Incidentally, the
new engine is more than just 2 more cylinders on the 6 -- bore is larger
and stroke is longer, so it will be more than 4400cc.
Frank.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ashley & Margaret Johnston" <Jabiru.nz(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 11/23/00 |
>"" Have they produced an engine that will develop these HP ratings, at
normal
> prop RPM? All the numbers I have seen might indicate their use would be
> limited to high speed AC applications, using small prop diameter and high
> pitch (like a KR for instance). Jerry""
Jerry and the Group,
""What is a normal prop speed""
I suppose that if you fly a DC3 then it is say 1800.
If it's a Tiger Moth then it has a different norm.
If you have a Rotax then the poor Crankshaft is at 4800 to 6000 the prop
doing something rather less and a poor PSRU the meat in the sandwich.
And Yes is the answer to your question my Jabiru cruises at 2800 to 3200 rpm
and the 80 hp published in the Engines Spec sheet is now achieved somewhat
below the original 3350 rpm. Similarly the 3300cc 120 hp Engine is
performing at way beyond 120hp on dyna test at 3350.
Where in fact there have been carefull tests done to make realistic
comperisons between a Jabiru and another popular 80 hp Engine there in fact
was very little difference in the actual flight performance of the two.
However there are a number of factors which I believe to be well worth
consideration:-
How much more expensive would a Rotax be if Jabiru (the only Purpose built
competition) were not available?
Compare the cost
Compare the cost of overhaul
Compare the weight
Compare the smoothness
I disagree that the Jabiru is only suited to a KR2 and similar fast machines
but it will out perform the competition in this type of aircraft more easily
than the slower dragier aircraft ---But so what?---is this really an
issue? --- are we all speed mad?---of course we are but just some of the
time!--- Isn't it nice to throttle back in a tailwind and get a bit more for
the gallon.
Jerry you are probably a nice guy but your question is actually poorly
researched or you show a lack of some basic facts re Lycoming Engines. A
Lyc 0360 is rated at 180 hp at 2800 rpm-- Now you go --Jump into a Cherokee
Archer with a fixed pitch prop fly it level and take a camera and click me a
photo of the Tacho and get the VSI in the picture as well. Then post it on
the builders group.
Make no mistake Jabiru are here for the long haul!!
Kindest regards to all
Ashley Johnston
A very proud Jabiru owner
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Vendor48(at)aol.com |
RE: Jabiru
There seems to be two major paths regarding alternative engines (not Lyc or
Cont, which I have not mentioned previously); spin it faster and use a
properly designed PRU, or develop some torque, and eliminate the reduction.
We don't have to worry about bolting one of these onto an Archer. My
interest is in a Bellaire SE (Cub type aircraft), that will cruise around
100. That typically dictates a large flat, climb prop. Real efficiency
dictates a large diameter. It will require a lot of torque to accelerate the
prop, the air, and the plane in critical situations and/or short field
takeoffs. From the torque/HP curves I have seen on the smaller Jabirus, I
would be concerned that the published HP peak would not be reached due to
prop tip speed limits. Sure you can stick a small prop on an engine and spin
it at 3500 RPM, but that does not mean that it is an efficient setup. Thrust
is the ultimate goal, and should match the operational envelope of the A/C.
So without bolting on a PRU, the Jabiru doesn't appear to be well suited for
slower aircraft. You can put a short high pitch prop on a KR (for instance),
but acceleration down the runway will be slow until the prop, engine, and
airspeed all get into their respective operational ranges. Regarding costs?
Rotax and Jabiru are still overly expensive. I don't understand why I can
purchase a complete guaranteed low time auto engine to convert for $600. I
guess I still haven't seen what I would consider a good, reliable, affordable
GP AC engine. Jerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jones15183(at)aol.com |
can you remove me from jabiru lists.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chris Davis" <scrounge(at)mediaone.net> |
| Subject: | Re: JABIRU ENGINES |
Ashley, read your message on the engines list and was suprised at the prices
! I am building a europa motorglider and the 2200looks like the ideal engine
for me. Your prices are2 to 3000 US dollars lower than prices shown in the
US ? can you shed any light on this ? thank you Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ashley & Margaret Johnston" <Jabiru.nz(at)xtra.co.nz>
Sent: Wednesday, November 22, 2000 4:50 PM
Subject: Engines-List: JABIRU ENGINES
>
> Members,
>
> It is firstly a home builder and sport flyer that I am writing to your
group
> with some information many may find interesting.
> I have been privileged to represent Jabiru Pty Ltd in New Zealand since
> bringing the first Jabiru Aircraft here almost six years ago. Presently
> Jabiru Engines are available and landed at most world Custom Clearance
> Airports at:-
>
> 2200 cc 80 hp @ $6400 US
> 3300 cc 120 hp @ $9450 US
>
> All Engines are shipped fully insured and fitted complete with:-
> Oil Cooler
> Full exhaust system including in Cowl muffler
> Starter and Starter Solenoid
> Alternator and Voltage Regulator
> VDO Oil Pressure Sender
> VDO Oil Temperature Sender
>
> F. F. Kits are manufactured by Jabiru for a large range of Sport Aircraft
>
> Kindest regards
>
> Ashley Johnston
>
> Jabiru New Zealand (064) 3 302 7197
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "mike6394(at)iwon.com" <mike6394(at)iwon.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 11/26/00 |
Hello all, I'm building a corvair engine according to William Wynne's conversion
plan. His manual has made it possible/affordable to build an airplane. I
will assemble my engine this week. Check out his web site; www.flycorvair.com
Mike Lindsay 11/27/2000 e-mail: mike6394(at)iwon.com
--
iWon <http://www.iwon.com/> - Best Search Engine on the Web plus the
chance to win $10,000 every day, $1 million every month and $10
million on Tax Day! See www.iwon.com for details.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <rich(at)carol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 11/26/00 |
Check out this page about the Corvair engine... about 2/3's of the way down. I
recently came across it. The entire site has a lot of info on auto engines for
aircraft, fuel system, exhaust, cooling, etc., a lot of it on the Subaru's.
http://www.sdsefi.com/air8.html
Rich
801
"mike6394(at)iwon.com" wrote:
>
> Hello all, I'm building a corvair engine according to William Wynne's conversion
> plan. His manual has made it possible/affordable to build an airplane. I
> will assemble my engine this week. Check out his web site; www.flycorvair.com
> Mike Lindsay 11/27/2000 e-mail: mike6394(at)iwon.com
>
>
> --
> iWon <http://www.iwon.com/> - Best Search Engine on the Web plus the
> chance to win $10,000 every day, $1 million every month and $10
> million on Tax Day! See www.iwon.com for details.
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ashley & Margaret Johnston" <Jabiru.nz(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 11/26/00 |
Chris
Greetings from New Zealand--- Yes you have it corect except you with local
freight considered the Jabiru 3300 could be getting near $3800 US less and
the Jabiru 2200 about $2700 less as my arrangement is delivery to the
nearest Customs Destination.
All Engines are shipped fully insured by Emery Worldwide Airfreight. Full
factory Warranty applies and supplies are normally readily available
although pre Christmas deliveries are almost full. FF Kits are available
for Europa and I will attach the 22wcwe (With Cowls and With Engine Mount )
file to you.
Kindest regards
Ashley Johnston
Jabiru New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DThomas773(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 11/27/00 |
Do you have firewall forward for an RV-9?
Dennis Thomas
dthomas773(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <rich(at)carol.net> |
I got lucky! (if you're into auto engines anyway) I just got a Subaru
EG33, 230 hp, 6cyl for $900 at a local salvage yard. Has 46K miles on
it. Flywheel is missing though. Shouldn't be a problem.
Rich
801
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 11/30/00 |
I will be rebuilding an O360 and will be going with throttle body
injection. Since I don't have any fuel pumps at this time my question is--
concerning the engine driven fuel pump. Is there a different pressure
rating to the engine driven fuel pumps for throttle body configurations?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <rich(at)carol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 11/30/00 |
I don't know. Sorry. A good place to ask is Airflow Performance. They are in
the back of Kitplanes magazine. If you make it sound like you buy something
they will answer your questions. They do sell fuel pumps also (electric I
believe, with filter, mount, etc.)
Rich
dave ford wrote:
>
> I will be rebuilding an O360 and will be going with throttle body
> injection. Since I don't have any fuel pumps at this time my question is--
> concerning the engine driven fuel pump. Is there a different pressure
> rating to the engine driven fuel pumps for throttle body configurations?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 11/30/00 |
>
> I will be rebuilding an O360 and will be going with throttle body
> injection. Since I don't have any fuel pumps at this time my question
is--
> concerning the engine driven fuel pump. Is there a different pressure
> rating to the engine driven fuel pumps for throttle body configurations?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
Dave,
If you have not gone too far with rebuilding mags, wiring,etc;
Look at the aerosance FADEC system. I wrote an article on the prototype,
and feel it is the first advance in 50 years in conventional ac piston
engines.
Improved fuel economy and power increase. STC's for many store-bought ac.
All external components, and modern technology..
www.fadec.com
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 11/30/00 |
I will be rebuilding an O360 and will be going with throttle body
injection. Since I don't have any fuel pumps at this time my question is--
concerning the engine driven fuel pump. Is there a different pressure
rating to the engine driven fuel pumps for throttle body configurations?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 11/30/00 |
>
> I will be rebuilding an O360 and will be going with throttle body
> injection. Since I don't have any fuel pumps at this time my question
is--
> concerning the engine driven fuel pump. Is there a different pressure
> rating to the engine driven fuel pumps for throttle body configurations?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
Dave,
If you have not gone too far with rebuilding mags, wiring,etc;
Look at the aerosance FADEC system. I wrote an article on the prototype,
and feel it is the first advance in 50 years in conventional ac piston
engines.
Improved fuel economy and power increase. STC's for many store-bought ac.
All external components, and modern technology..
www.fadec.com
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Mehalek" <lycon(at)lycon.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 11/30/00 |
Dave
You will need a high pressure fuel pump. Part # LW-15473 It puts out about
26 psi.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net>
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2000 9:07 PM
Subject: Engines-List: Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 11/30/00
>
>
> I will be rebuilding an O360 and will be going with throttle body
> injection. Since I don't have any fuel pumps at this time my question
is--
> concerning the engine driven fuel pump. Is there a different pressure
> rating to the engine driven fuel pumps for throttle body configurations?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dany A. Pennington" <DanyPennington(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 12/08/00 |
Please un-subscribe me from this list
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tom Tolliver" <tomtolliver(at)earthlink.net> |
I have yet to hear any arguments about the short rotax TBO in the never
ending discussion over rotax verses conventional aviation engines. Is that
because the overhaul cost is proportionally lower as well?
Anyone care to comment?
Thanks,
Tom
- in selection process, plan on starting this spring
________________________________________________________________________________
hey,
My comment about rotax's are that you need to add weight by putting on
a prop rpm reducer, as far as TBO's Turing that little engine at
5600-6200rpm's in absolutely insane. Why turn a little egging so fast when
you can buy say a Lycoming and turn it at 2700 and produce the same hp,
Lycoming O-360 produces 180hp@2700rpm so you wouldn't need a gear reduction
for your prop. Also TBO is a beautiful 2000 hours
Justin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> hey,
>
> My comment about rotax's are that you need to add weight by putting
on
> a prop rpm reducer, as far as TBO's Turing that little engine at
> 5600-6200rpm's in absolutely insane. Why turn a little egging so fast when
> you can buy say a Lycoming and turn it at 2700 and produce the same hp,
> Lycoming O-360 produces 180hp@2700rpm so you wouldn't need a gear
reduction
> for your prop. Also TBO is a beautiful 2000 hours
>
> Justin
A very rare occurrence, indeed when a conventional aircraft actually
goes to TBO without cylinder work several times. Oil consumption
cost, more frequent oil changes, AD's, etc.
Granted, the Rotax is not the last word in AC engines,
but it is a quantum leap forward in technology, and parts are inexpensive at
OH time.
I am not defending Rotax, merely pointing out that you can buy a complete
new Rotax
for the approximate cost of an O-360 overhaul. I know, I have an engine
shop.
Technologically, the AC engine is akin to a Model A engine. Break-in oil and
time, designed about the same time, with no modern technology improvements,
(same as 50 yrs ago), and they still cannot get it right. AD's being issued
as
pilots are still testing these for the factories.
Sorry, I can go on for hours, so will stop here.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Greg Ferris <ferret(at)forbin.com> |
You forgot about guzzling $2.50/gallon avgas. The Rotax uses technology from the
relatively recent past. It was designed and tested to run at higher than what
is
considered normal RPM
They stopped using magnetos on tractors a LONG time ago, why would you want to
fly behind an engine using them? Also, in what other scene does one have to
manually control mixture these days? Soon 100LL will be gone. Unless one has
low compression (like an O-320), what's going to fuel these engines?
RV6aJMW(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> hey,
>
> My comment about rotax's are that you need to add weight by putting on
> a prop rpm reducer, as far as TBO's Turing that little engine at
> 5600-6200rpm's in absolutely insane. Why turn a little egging so fast when
> you can buy say a Lycoming and turn it at 2700 and produce the same hp,
> Lycoming O-360 produces 180hp@2700rpm so you wouldn't need a gear reduction
> for your prop. Also TBO is a beautiful 2000 hours
>
> Justin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jones15183(at)aol.com |
please remove me from Rotax eng list.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ashley & Margaret Johnston" <Jabiru.nz(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 12/13/00 |
Todays questions and opinions expressed in the comparisons of Rotax and
0360's have missed to mention the very successfull Jabiru Engines that
are a meaningfull attempt to bridge the gap. That is to produce an
Engine of modern technology yet retain the basics, as near as possible,
to the traditional power and torque requirements and yet retaining the
direct drive principle. To this end the Jabiru 3300 cc-- 120 hp, is
approximately similar weight to a fully equipped Rotax 912. The Jabiru
2200cc 80 hp being 50 lbs lighter than a fully equipped 912.
With the advent of Global Marketing and the Internet, the US market
place is now able to take full advantage of proper competitive
marketing, backed by factory warranty (two hundred hours or one) year
and parts service. Presently I am able to deliver these engines to most
Customs destinations Worldwide (excluding UK) Current prices are:-
Jabiru 3300cc 120 hp @ $9670 US
Jabiru 2200cc 80 hp @ $6630 US
Other products
A large range of FFKits POA
Microair Radios and Transponders are available (with Engine purchases
only) POA
Kindest regards and a very Merry Christmas
Ashley Johnston
Jabiru New Zealand (064) 3 302 7197
________________________________________________________________________________
Need help in locating an oil sump and intake tubes for a foreward faceing
sump that fits a IO 540. Any one have any leads on who to call. someone have
one just sitting around the shop in the corner taking up room? let me know
off list. Terry E. Cole
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Gordon Robertson <gordon(at)safemail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 12/13/00 |
>
>
> >
> > hey,
> >
> > My comment about rotax's are that you need to add weight by putting
> on
> > a prop rpm reducer, as far as TBO's Turing that little engine at
> > 5600-6200rpm's in absolutely insane. Why turn a little egging so fast when
> > you can buy say a Lycoming and turn it at 2700 and produce the same hp,
> > Lycoming O-360 produces 180hp@2700rpm so you wouldn't need a gear
> reduction
> > for your prop. Also TBO is a beautiful 2000 hours
> >
> > Justin
>
> A very rare occurrence, indeed when a conventional aircraft actually
> goes to TBO without cylinder work several times. Oil consumption
> cost, more frequent oil changes, AD's, etc.
> Granted, the Rotax is not the last word in AC engines,
> but it is a quantum leap forward in technology, and parts are inexpensive at
> OH time.
> I am not defending Rotax, merely pointing out that you can buy a complete
> new Rotax
> for the approximate cost of an O-360 overhaul. I know, I have an engine
> shop.
> Technologically, the AC engine is akin to a Model A engine. Break-in oil and
> time, designed about the same time, with no modern technology improvements,
> (same as 50 yrs ago), and they still cannot get it right. AD's being issued
> as
> pilots are still testing these for the factories.
> Sorry, I can go on for hours, so will stop here.
> Archie
>
Archie,
Since you have an engine shop, I would be interested in your thoughts.
I agree with your opinion of the typical aero engine, and am very interested in
converted auto engines, even though they run at higer rpm and need a prop reducer.
I
believe that these days the auto engines are tested to 100,000 miles at high power
settings and high rpm so are very different from auto engines of 20 years ago.
What is your opinion of the Mazda 13B rotary engine? There is a lot of support
in
the homebuilt industry for this engine (also for the Subaru but I am attracted
to the
fewer moving parts and 180 - 200 hp of the rotary). If you are not familiar,
please
see www.rotaryaviation.com
Of course, without a complete firewall forward package, there is a lot of work
in
installing this or any other auto engine. Assume I am willing to put in that
work,
I would like your opinion on the basic technology, reliability, etc. of this engine.
Regards
Gordon Robertson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Dorothy <frankv(at)infogen.net.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 12/13/00 |
Gordon Robertson wrote:
> Archie,
>
> Since you have an engine shop, I would be interested in your thoughts.
>
> I agree with your opinion of the typical aero engine, and am very interested
in
> converted auto engines, even though they run at higer rpm and need a prop reducer.
I
> believe that these days the auto engines are tested to 100,000 miles at high
power
> settings and high rpm so are very different from auto engines of 20 years ago.
>
> What is your opinion of the Mazda 13B rotary engine? There is a lot of support
in
> the homebuilt industry for this engine (also for the Subaru but I am attracted
to the
> fewer moving parts and 180 - 200 hp of the rotary). If you are not familiar,
please
> see www.rotaryaviation.com
>
> Of course, without a complete firewall forward package, there is a lot of work
in
> installing this or any other auto engine. Assume I am willing to put in that
work,
> I would like your opinion on the basic technology, reliability, etc. of this
engine.
Gordon, I know you addressed this to Archie, but I'll reply anyway:
My understanding is that auto engines are not designed for high power
settings over much of their life. Typically, a car uses about 30-50HP
for most of its life, with occasional bursts at higher power settings.
They also are designed to put up with a lot of abuse during their
100,000 mile design life... high power settings when cold, lots of
start-stop operation, etc. Therefore, with careful use, they can be run
at higher power settings for a long time, as in an aircraft application.
My thinking is that the 13B is probably the best auto engine for
conversion. It does have some problems: very hot exhaust, the need for a
very effective oil cooler, a very loud exhaust. Most converters seem to
remove the tip seal oil pump, preferring to pre-mix 2-stroke oil into
the fuel. For more information about the Mazda 13B, see my web page
http://members.nbci.com/frankv/rv/bunny/mazda13b.htm -- it contains
various bits of information I have collected, plus links to other
information sources.
Regarding reliability, etc... the word amongst the auto-conversion
people is that engines fail because auxiliary systems (ignition, fuel
supply, cooling, etc) fail. The engine itself generally is not the weak
link in the chain. As a homebuilder, you will be installing the
auxilliary systems whether you install a Lycoming or a Mazda, so the
reliability is similar. However, you are adding a major component or two
(reduction drive, radiator, perhaps a turbo or two) whose design and
reliability has not been tested as thoroughly as a Lyc. Nevertheless,
IMHO a careful auto-conversion installation by a knowledgeable builder
should be in about the same reliability ballpark as a Lyc installation.
Installation cost will be in the same ballpark as a secondhand Lyc. The
big cost is the redrive. There's also a major amount of work involved in
designing and constructing all the auxilliary systems. Or you can buy a
forewall-forward package -- cost is about the same as a new Lyc.
Benefits are a much reduced cost in any engine rebuilds, ability to run
mogas, and (perhaps) ownership of a unique aircraft.
Having said all the above, I welcome anyone's comments on it.
Frank.
RV-6 builder... I've pretty much decided on installing a 13B, but
haven't actually committed myself to it yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 6 Msgs - 12/13/00 |
> Gordon Robertson wrote:
> > Archie,
> >
> > Since you have an engine shop, I would be interested in your thoughts.
> >
> > I agree with your opinion of the typical aero engine, and am very
interested in
> > converted auto engines, even though they run at higer rpm and need a
prop reducer. I
> > believe that these days the auto engines are tested to 100,000 miles at
high power
> > settings and high rpm so are very different from auto engines of 20
years ago.
> >
> > What is your opinion of the Mazda 13B rotary engine? There is a lot of
support in
> > the homebuilt industry for this engine (also for the Subaru but I am
attracted to the
> > fewer moving parts and 180 - 200 hp of the rotary). If you are not
familiar, please
> > see www.rotaryaviation.com
> >
> > Of course, without a complete firewall forward package, there is a lot
of work in
> > installing this or any other auto engine. Assume I am willing to put
in that work,
> > I would like your opinion on the basic technology, reliability, etc. of
this engine.
Gordon, In essence I agree with Frank's commentary.
Without going into a long dissertation, I hope to have articles ready by
mid-summer on how I
built two conventional aircraft engines that do not burn oil. (well,
hardly). That is another story.
At present, I would say that if a person is building an aircraft, the same
amount of work is
required. I.E. Exhaust , mount fabrication, etc.Except for cooling system.
Right now, the Wankel- type engines (in my opinion) are a leap ahead of
conventional.
Some simple examples are:
No real oil consumption, 3 basic moving parts, Inexpensive replacement parts
& overhaul,
water cooling for even distribution of temps. Weight, installed and flying
is usually less
than Cont or Lyc. Drawbacks? none that I can think of, unless it is a
redrive, but that
has an advantage. Most redrives raise the prop from 2- 4 inches. And just
think, instead of
around a .020 plug gap, you can run .040 or more. This alone tell you
something.
And how about the AD's? Where else can you test for the manufacturers and
still pay?
When are they going to get it right?
An associate who will remain nameless, was associated with a German
manufacturer
in an attempt to determine weak points in a Wankel. After many people tried,
they gave
up trying to blow the engine up.
Powersport has a complete package for the RV-6, 215hp for around 18k. Buy
once, and
forget it.
I could go on and on, and on, and on, .................
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ray Richardson Jr." <ray(at)powersportaviation.com> |
| Subject: | Powersport update & link |
Rotary Engine update;
Thought that you might like an update on our progress and testing.
Sales of engines and reduction drives continue, and we currently have
85hrs. of flight time on our RV-6A. The engine has been subjected to 128
hours of extreme duty, starting life as a dynamometer mule, then moving to
the RV for our enjoyment/ abuse!!
Our test engine remains extremely strong with an exceptionally
broad power curve providing high cruise speed of
190mph indicated @ 2300rpm/prop, 5300 engine rpm. = 1767 actual rotor rpm.
212 MPH TAS 2 way GPS confirmed, limited by our unfinished cowling.
Sustained rate of climb is 2250 feet/min. Cruise fuel burn of 10 gph at 180
mph
Exhaust development to improve our sound quality has been a ongoing project.
Many have commented that our airplane now sounds like a muffled P-51 at
cruise.
We are working on firewall forward projects, knowing this is also the key
for the home builder who wants to purchase a proven product he can
bolt together and fly, not a engineering project he might not be able to
complete.
This week we received a call from Ken Scot, manager at Vans. requesting
updates
and pictures on our progress for their next "THE RVATOR" newsletter.
Vans has not endorsed our product yet, but their willingness to publish a
article in their newsletter about us, including pictures, is a welcome
sign.
We could not be happier with the reduction drive. It runs very smooth, and
maintains a very tight gear mesh. The ring gear has been removed several
times for inspection, and shows no signs of wear. A more easily adjustable
mount for the electric MT prop governor is in the works that will eliminate
the need to drill and tap the "bell" housing.
We have been receiving inquiries about the use of our drive with a 3 Rotor,
and welcome the interest. Everett Hatch flew with many "planetary"
reductions, some with pendulous dampers to control resonance, even with the
earlier 200hp output, he failed every one in less than 100 hours. Adding
more "planets" does not solve the resonance problems associated with a
planetary reduction drives used on a rotary engine.
Our Internal Spur Gear reduction drive is designed to handle 300hp
continuous,
for 2000 hours. The strength of the gear tooth is good for 450hp. We have
not
yet performed the vibration analysis on our drive when couple to a 20B, but
would soon if people are at that stage in their projects.
Other added benefit to our reduction drive is;
1) You do not need to find a custom made left hand prop, Ours allows
standard prop rotation.
2) Our drive moves the props centerline up by 2" (no need to rotate the
engine plugs-up
to gain prop clearance). This is especially important if you use our
215 hp engine as you
will need a larger prop. We are now flying with a 72" dia. 3 blade MT
constant speed, our
last fixed pitch prop was Allen Tohl's RV-3 70" dia. x 85" pitch and
this prop was not enough.
3) Our outdrive handles aerobics forces, in pusher or tractor set-up.
Precision angular
contact bearings take thrust and radial loads with a 8 times safety
rating
4) Our outdrive allows backlash adjustment throughout its service life.
with-in 30 minuets without disassembly, while on the airplane.
We sincerely hope that all rotary aviators have a safe and successful
experience, and as we add "more power" that we can deliver it to the prop
reliably.
Fly safe
Ray Richardson Jr.
www.powersportaviation.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ristic Vlastimir <rileyu(at)rad.net.id> |
salegica(at)centrin.net.id, rv6-list(at)matronics.com, prima(at)flite.net,
p-nikola(at)EUnet.yu, nina.topic(at)pu.tel.hr, mnesa(at)net.yu, MisterRaven(at)aol.com,
crmacak(at)EUnet.yu, Skydive(at)EUnet.yu, MDjSOKO(at)aol.com, sky-naum(at)EUnet.yu,
Kadarjan Sebastian , jkrivaja(at)inet.hr,
ivanmpopovic(at)hotmail.com, ivanpop(at)EUnet.yu, indonesian-skydiver(at)egroups.com,
galebre(at)ntlworld.com, ekross(at)qwest.net, engines-list(at)matronics.com,
ekross(at)uswest.net, galebre(at)dmanojlovic.freeserve.co.uk, aerodb(at)yubc.net,
demo_yu(at)yahoo.com, paradar(at)yubc.net, shawnm(at)sprint.ca, calagx(at)nigol.net.ng,
ccaglobal(at)pacific.net.ph, hobbylan(at)sby.globalinfo.net,
budid(at)sby.centrin.net.id, biosco(at)EUnet.yu, pocky(at)yubc.net, pocky(at)beotel.yu,
felia2(at)sby.dnet.net.id, supergaleb(at)excite.com
Dragi Drugari,
Ne otvarajte nikakav atashment sa moje strane jer postoji mogudjnost da
vam dodje automatski sa mog konpjutera.Radi se o nekom virusu koji je
napravio dar-mar kod mene a dolazi sa Vladinog konpjutera.
Dear friends,
Please do not open any attachment from me because it contain virus which
can damage your files.
Virus came automaticly to me from another friend and damaged my files.
Regards,
RILE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bill VonDane <bvondane(at)cso.atmel.com> |
| Subject: | Another Radio for Sale |
Engines-List ,
"Rv8list@Egroups" , Rv-List
I am posting this for a friend... Please contact him directly...
King 170B with the MAC 1700 upgrade witch adds digital tuning, Flip flop on
nav and comm. extensive freq memory, synthesized voice freq readout and
synthetic voice approach countdown timer. And many flight planning
features. A great IFR nav / comm for a great price for a radio that has
never been used since OH. Will sell for $1800.00. including tray, manual
and Jack...
Burrall Sanders - yankeeair(at)earthlink.net
http://vondane.tripod.com/forsale/mac1700.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Tarabocchia" <zodiac.builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Starting Propless Engine...? |
Can you start and run an 0-200, say at idle for a few minutes, without a
prop. I do not have the room in the garage to attach the prop and run
it? I would like to get it started and running to check for leaks and
any other hidden problems...
Thanks
--
John W. Tarabocchia
601hds N6042T Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
Airframe 95% Complete...
Painting Airframe
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Starting Propless Engine...? |
>
> Can you start and run an 0-200, say at idle for a few minutes, without a
> prop. I do not have the room in the garage to attach the prop and run
> it? I would like to get it started and running to check for leaks and
> any other hidden problems...
>
> Thanks
>
> --
>
> John W. Tarabocchia
This is often misunderstood.
The prop acts as a governor, and without it the engine will continue
climbing in revs until the valves float.
Contrary to popular belief, many people are told the engine will blow up if
run without a prop, or club prop. This is largely BS. I have run these on a
dyno,
to 4200 with no problems. Depending on the work performed, they will rev
higher, but this serves no purpose unless you are formula racing.
As long as you have positive throttle control, the RPM can be controlled
this way.
The only real problem in running without a prop is cooling.
A couple of good quality fans forcing air through the cylinders from above
will suffice for short periods. Not recommended for engine break-in due to
the great amount of heat generated by old style, wide cast iron rings.
(just a quick overview)
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 12/18/00 |
Sorry to disagree with your assessment, but the prop also works as a
flywheel, and an absorber of excess power. First, the flywheel, as anyone
with a lawn mower can see, is a rotating mass that tends to damp out (absorb)
power impulses created by the power stroke and improves smoothness while
ensuring adequate inertia to move the engine to the next cycle/event.
Secondly, the prop, through the pitch, absorbs energy by its' resistance to
the relative air...that "screw" theory, if you will. Look at an engine with
a flat pitch prop on it at several throttle settings. Then check that same
engine with a coarse pitch prop of the same diameter and weight. It will top
out at a lower RPM.
Also, the maximum speed of an engine is usually governed by the diameter/size
of the carburetor throat, or other AIR measuring device. When it runs out of
airflow, it can't go any faster. For an example of this, take the air filter
off of your leaf blower, and crank it up. Take a piece of aluminum sheet, or
other stiff material, and slowly block off the carb intake. The engine will
gradually slow down until, from lack of air, it dies.
In other words, I wouldn't recommend running any engine without its' designed
flywheel/power absorber. But, as in life, the final choice is yours.
Thoughts of an O.F.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 12/21/00 |
| From: | Greg P Jannakos <gpjann(at)juno.com> |
I'm building a Zenair 601 HDS and am looking on FWF information, such as
Type engine:
Weight:
Performance:
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 12/21/00 |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <gfcorriv(at)total.net> |
on 12/22/00 1:18 PM, Greg P Jannakos at gpjann(at)juno.com wrote:
>
> I'm building a Zenair 601 HDS and am looking on FWF information, such as
> Type engine:
> Weight:
> Performance:
You can check it out at this url:
http://www.aero-engines.bc.ca/
I just noticed that they have now put together a firewall forward package
for Zenair aircraft for both the CAM100 and 125 engine.
Take a look - hope this is helpful,
--
Grant Corriveau
Montreal
Zodiac 601hds/CAM100
C-GHTF
I forgot to mention that you can see some photos on the Zenair website of a
CAM100 installation in a 601. I think they are on the engines options pages
accessed from the builders site?
Also fyi you can check out my online photo album:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=962828&a=7061580
Grant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Piers Herbert" <piers.herbert(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Wilksch flight testing |
Wilksch Airmotive have recently started flight testing the WAM 120 turbo
diesel, though the tests have been limited by poor weather. I am hoping in
the new year to get to visit them and observe one of the tests.
Their web site is at http://www.wilksch.com
Piers Herbert
Essex, UK
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft Outlook Express Macintosh Edition - 5.01 (1630)
| Subject: | Re: Wilksch flight testing |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)telus.net> |
Another interesting diesel engine.
I noticed the poppet exhaust valve and the absence of crankcase induction.
Is this engine related to the Orbital 2-stroke from several years ago?
Tedd
Surrey, BC
RV-6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Andrew Larkin <aj_larkin(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | fitting for tach connection on O-320 |
I have an electronic tach for my O-320, which installs
with a wire wound around one of the spark plug wires.
I need some kind of fitting to plug the connection for
a mechanical tach. Anyone know what I would use here?
Thanks,
Andrew Larkin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Piers Herbert" <piers.herbert(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wilksch flight testing |
>
> I noticed the poppet exhaust valve and the absence of crankcase induction.
> Is this engine related to the Orbital 2-stroke from several years ago?
>
Hi Tedd, I,ve been away for Christmas and just read your post. I don't know
about the Orbital. If the Wilksch engine is related to anything, its
operating principle is perhaps similar in some respects to the TCM GAP
engine. Mark Wilksch once worked on a design study for Teledyne Continental,
but apparently got fed up with the "designed by committee" aspect of working
with a big company and reckoned he could do better setting up on his own.
He may well be ahead of TCM in solving the problems associated with this
type of engine. In particular this is the first time his engine has flown
with a new design of gear driven supercharger which is needed to keep the
engine running reliably at idle power when the turbo output would be
insufficient. He also expects to achieve the first production deliveries (to
experimental/ homebuilt customers) during 2001.
Piers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Livingston" <jliving(at)erinet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Wilksch flight testing |
Tedd,
I can see no relation between the Wilksch and the Orbital work. Orbitals
R&D was mostly related to their low pressure air assisted injection schemes.
Numerous engines were designed using it.
John
----- Original Message -----
From: Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)telus.net>
Sent: Friday, December 22, 2000 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Wilksch flight testing
>
> Another interesting diesel engine.
>
> I noticed the poppet exhaust valve and the absence of crankcase induction.
> Is this engine related to the Orbital 2-stroke from several years ago?
>
> Tedd
> Surrey, BC
> RV-6
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Daniel Pelletier" <pelletie1(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Instruments for Soob |
>Hi,
I'm completed au 601 HDS W/Subaru EA 81, I did my choice on VDO'S Engine
instruments but I don't know if VDO made a tach for that kind of engine.
I saw on the archive that Grant Corriveau encounters problems with this tach
on its cam 100.
Is somebody can help me. I'm open for any others suggestions for others
instruments like Altimeter, VSI and Gyros.
Daniel
L'Assomption Quebec
HDS 601
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jim and Lucy <jpollard(at)mnsi.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instruments for Soob |
>
>
> >Hi,
>
>I'm completed au 601 HDS W/Subaru EA 81, I did my choice on VDO'S Engine
>instruments but I don't know if VDO made a tach for that kind of engine.
>
>I saw on the archive that Grant Corriveau encounters problems with this tach
>on its cam 100.
>
>Is somebody can help me. I'm open for any others suggestions for others
>instruments like Altimeter, VSI and Gyros.
>
>
>Daniel
>L'Assomption Quebec
>HDS 601
> >
> >
Every company that makes tachs makes one that will work on your
engine. You need an electric tach made for a 4 cylinder engine.
Try to get one that goes from 0 - 6000 rpm
The tach wire usually connects to one of the coil wires.
Some tachs are made for 4 cylinders and some are made
to adjust for different numbers of cyinders.
If you have a dual ignition system (which you should!!!) you will
also need a way to switch the tach leads between the coils so
your tach will read when you are on the other ignition. A double
pole switch will do this. MSD also makes a little wiring harness with
diodes in it that will do this automatically it costs about $10.00 Canadian
You also should have a .25 amp fuse
on the lead to the tach near the coil in case there is a short in the tach or
wireing, a short here will fail the ignition.
There is another kind of tach that clips on one of the ignition
plug wires that needs no switching when you switch ignitions.
Not sure if vdo makes one of those.
Jim Pollard
Merlin Ont
ch601 hds
ea81
working on rad and fuel tanks
________________________________________________________________________________
User-Agent: Microsoft-Outlook-Express-Macintosh-Edition/5.02.2022
| Subject: | Re: Instruments for Soob |
| From: | Grant Corriveau <gfcorriv(at)total.net> |
on 1/2/01 11:33 PM, Jim and Lucy at jpollard(at)mnsi.net wrote:
...
>> I saw on the archive that Grant Corriveau encounters problems with this tach
>> on its cam 100.
The vdo tach works okay when connected to the ignition coil. My problems
are in the compatibility between the CAM electronic ignition box and the
tach... still not sure what's up there.
Grant
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | cleaning engine parts |
I am in the process of cleaning my disassembled O360 that I purchased to
be rebuilt. The crankcase was sent in to be checked and came back
cleaned up, rewelded, checked and modified. I had to buy a different
accessory case which is clean. I don't know what these shops use to
clean these aluminum cases but they are super clean and shiny looking.
I am interested in cleaning the dirty oil pan that we have rinsed and
brushed with mineral spirits, have used paint stripper and scotchbrite
pads, but comes no where near as clean as these other parts. Do I need
to sandblast ? Also I have a starter ring which I believe is steel or
combination steel/aluminum? Any suggestions?
Dave Ford
RV6
getting engine parts together
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GlassairRG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Crankshaft plugs Lycoming |
Hi,
I have just spent a year nightmare trying to get by Glasair in the air.
Problem was that after take-off the CSU would stop governing and we would
overspeed. Hoffmann props and engineman just could not find the solution. Two
engine stripdowns later it was found that on my engine IO 360 A1B, the rear
plug at the front of the crank is one of a few that was fitted by Lycoming.
There is a small 1/4" BSP taper plug in the middle. This had come slightly
loose and accounted for the pressure drop from the governor to prop. Hope you
all remember this...just in case.
John de Frayssinet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | GlassairRG(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/12/01 |
yes, for gods sake just send the bits to an authorised shop for
cleanup...they use ultrasound and any messing around by yourself could result
in future cracks
John de Frayssinet
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cleaning engine parts |
>
> I am in the process of cleaning my disassembled O360 that I purchased to
> be rebuilt. The crankcase was sent in to be checked and came back
> cleaned up, rewelded, checked and modified. I had to buy a different
> accessory case which is clean. I don't know what these shops use to
> clean these aluminum cases but they are super clean and shiny looking.
> I am interested in cleaning the dirty oil pan that we have rinsed and
> brushed with mineral spirits, have used paint stripper and scotchbrite
> pads, but comes no where near as clean as these other parts. Do I need
> to sandblast ? Also I have a starter ring which I believe is steel or
> combination steel/aluminum? Any suggestions?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6
> getting engine parts together
We use a special industrial cleaner for aluminum which
requires the use of rubber gloves. Do not know if it is available
in small quantity.
DO NOT blast aluminum with glass or sand. The abrasive is
multi-faceted, and some tends to imbed itself into the soft aluminum.
Cleaning will not remove it all, unless in a heated solution which will
expand the allum. and release most of the captive abrasive.
If you just blast and wash, when your assembled engine heats up,
the particles will be released.
Archie Frangoudis
Archie's Racing Service
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | cleaning engine parts |
| From: | "thomas r. jones" <tom144(at)juno.com> |
"Dave ford" writes:
I don't know what these shops use to clean these aluminum cases super
clean and shiny - - interested in cleaning the dirty oil pan Any
suggestions?
> Dave Ford RV6 getting engine parts together
Dave, Most shops now use a hot water bath with environmentally friendly
soaps. It's a cleaning machine just like a dishwasher. Low water
pressure sprayers and lots of hot soapy water for long periods of time.
Parts typically come out looking like new! Probably not a good idea to
use any type of abrasive (sand, beads) as it may contaminate the engine.
The washer is good for cast iron, steel, aluminum, etc. You can make
your own with parts out of Grainger's catalog for about $500....and lots
of sheet metal bending and welding.......
Tom Jones BELTED AIR POWERED RV6A Las Vegas, NV
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jones15183(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/12/01 |
Yall do know what ultrasound is.. Basically it is just a large cleaning vat
with an air vibrator attached to it.. Of course you do have to have the
proper cleaning solvent.
If any of you can obtain some trichloroethylene this is an excellent
degreaser, as this is one of the solvents we used in the aerospace industry.
Just be careful how you breathe it. A former aero/Chemist. Billy Waters
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Arthur Glaser <airplane(at)megsinet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cleaning engine parts |
The dishwasher in the kitchen works very well.
"thomas r. jones" wrote:
>
> "Dave ford" writes:
>
> I don't know what these shops use to clean these aluminum cases super
> clean and shiny - - interested in cleaning the dirty oil pan Any
> suggestions?
> > Dave Ford RV6 getting engine parts together
>
> Dave, Most shops now use a hot water bath with environmentally friendly
> soaps. It's a cleaning machine just like a dishwasher. Low water
> pressure sprayers and lots of hot soapy water for long periods of time.
> Parts typically come out looking like new! Probably not a good idea to
> use any type of abrasive (sand, beads) as it may contaminate the engine.
> The washer is good for cast iron, steel, aluminum, etc. You can make
> your own with parts out of Grainger's catalog for about $500....and lots
> of sheet metal bending and welding.......
>
> Tom Jones BELTED AIR POWERED RV6A Las Vegas, NV
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/12/01 |
>
> Yall do know what ultrasound is.. Basically it is just a large cleaning
vat
> with an air vibrator attached to it.. Of course you do have to have the
> proper cleaning solvent.
> If any of you can obtain some trichloroethylene this is an excellent
> degreaser, as this is one of the solvents we used in the aerospace
industry.
> Just be careful how you breathe it. A former aero/Chemist. Billy Waters
One of our cleaning machines was designed for Trichlorethane with
ultrasonic.
Since this chemical has been deemed dangerous to the environment,
several approved substitutes are available. We use one of the Zep products.
You can build a simple vapor degreaser for about $40. that will clean
parts about the size of a basketball.
Archie's Racing Service
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | cerminil or steel cylinders |
I am interested to know whether steel or cerminil is the better choice
for new cylinders. Anyone with a professional opinion?
Dave Ford
O360A1A
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cerminil or steel cylinders |
>
> I am interested to know whether steel or cerminil is the better choice
> for new cylinders. Anyone with a professional opinion?
>
> Dave Ford
> O360A1A
> RV6
I may be wrong, but believe Cerminil has been discontinued.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD <John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil> |
| Subject: | cerminil or steel cylinders |
I think he meant Nicosil. It is very good.
-----Original Message-----
From: Archie [mailto:archie97(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Sunday, January 14, 2001 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: cerminil or steel cylinders
>
> I am interested to know whether steel or cerminil is the better choice
> for new cylinders. Anyone with a professional opinion?
>
> Dave Ford
> O360A1A
> RV6
I may be wrong, but believe Cerminil has been discontinued.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
I have read that baking the items in the oven for about 2 hours at 200
deg. after painting will produce a better paint job for the engine case,
tubes, cylinder base flanges. My question is if MEK is a suitable
cleaner and if zinc chromate is a suitable primer before a high temp
enamel is applied?
Dave Ford
O360A1A
________________________________________________________________________________
Stay away from zinc chromate poison. Do yourself a favor and pick something
else.
Crosby Kennett
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aucountry(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 1/17/01 3:24:44 PM, dford(at)michweb.net writes:
<< I have read that baking the items in the oven for about 2 hours at 200
deg. after painting will produce a better paint job for the engine case,
tubes, cylinder base flanges. My question is if MEK is a suitable cleaner
and if zinc chromate is a suitable primer before a high temp enamel is
applied?
Dave Ford
O360A1A
>>
I've been doing this for years (something like 30 years). I bake at 350 for
an hour. Get some Dupont DX330 to use as a cleaner. Use two rags, 1) for
the DX330, and one clean one to wipe dry.
As for Zinc Chromate, I use the rattle can zinc chromate and it works just
fine. If you have the facilities, get some Dupont VariPrime. It's a two
part self etching primer that paint stripper won't touch. It's almost bullet
proof.
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aucountry(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cerminil or steel cylinders |
In a message dated 1/17/01 1:33:27 PM, John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil writes:
<< I may be wrong, but believe Cerminil has been discontinued.
Archie
>>
CermiChrome was discontinued. As far as I know, CermiNil is still being used.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD <John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil> |
| Subject: | cerminil or steel cylinders |
The way I understand it is that CermiNil is the American name for the
European Nicosil process? Does anyone know this story?
-----Original Message-----
From: Aucountry(at)aol.com [mailto:Aucountry(at)aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 1:53 AM
Subject: Re: RE: Engines-List: cerminil or steel cylinders
In a message dated 1/17/01 1:33:27 PM, John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil writes:
<< I may be wrong, but believe Cerminil has been discontinued.
Archie
>>
CermiChrome was discontinued. As far as I know, CermiNil is still being
used.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Steele" <visteele(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cerminil or steel cylinders |
JOHN,
You might be able to get some info on the nicsil process from General
Motors engineering. They used that process on aluminum blocks in one of
their 4 cylinder cars in the 1970s
Jack Steele
----- Original Message -----
From: "Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD" <John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cerminil or steel cylinders |
>
> JOHN,
> You might be able to get some info on the nicsil process from General
> Motors engineering. They used that process on aluminum blocks in one of
> their 4 cylinder cars in the 1970s
> Jack Steele
That would have been the Vega 4 cyl. which was silicon
impregnated. it was a failure, and I made a lot of money
machining and installing cast iron sleeves as a remedial
measure on them.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
The reason I asked about this is that ECI makes their own steel cylinder
heads & new Classic Cast cylinders or they will sell their new cylinder
heads with remanufactured cylinders w/ Cerminil cylinders. Someone told
me they are made from ceramic and nickel as material used in
manufacturing and therefore for some reason help to hold lubrication in
the cylinder walls? I just wondered if there was anything good about
Cerminil vs. steel barrels or any disadvantage to one or the other.
Dave Ford
O360 looking to buy cylinders
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD <John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil> |
| Subject: | cerminil or steel cylinders |
The Vega did not use the Nicosil process. The Vega, if I remember right, used
a high silicon content aluminum alloy, then they etched away the aluminum in the
bore to expose the hard silicon. The Nicosil process was , I believe, developed
in Europe. It applys a Nickle Silicon layer on the bore. Beyond this I'm
fuzzy. I heard that the Cermanil process is a similar, if not identical process.
-----Original Message-----
From: Archie [mailto:archie97(at)earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 4:29 PM
Subject: Re: RE: Engines-List: cerminil or steel cylinders
>
> JOHN,
> You might be able to get some info on the nicsil process from General
> Motors engineering. They used that process on aluminum blocks in one of
> their 4 cylinder cars in the 1970s
> Jack Steele
That would have been the Vega 4 cyl. which was silicon
impregnated. it was a failure, and I made a lot of money
machining and installing cast iron sleeves as a remedial
measure on them.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cerminil or steel cylinders |
Sorry John,
Perhaps I was not explicit enough.
Thought that is what I said in my original message.
And yes, Nicosil, as I recall, was developed in Germany
Archie
>
> The Vega did not use the Nicosil process. The Vega, if I remember right,
used a high silicon content aluminum alloy, then they etched away the
aluminum in the bore to expose the hard silicon. The Nicosil process was ,
I believe, developed in Europe. It applys a Nickle Silicon layer on the
bore. Beyond this I'm fuzzy. I heard that the Cermanil process is a
similar, if not identical process.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Archie [mailto:archie97(at)earthlink.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2001 4:29 PM
> To: engines-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RE: Engines-List: cerminil or steel cylinders
>
>
> >
> > JOHN,
> > You might be able to get some info on the nicsil process from General
> > Motors engineering. They used that process on aluminum blocks in one of
> > their 4 cylinder cars in the 1970s
> > Jack Steele
>
ORIGINAL MESSAGE:
That would have been the Vega 4 cyl. which was silicon
impregnated. it was a failure, and I made a lot of money
machining and installing cast iron sleeves as a remedial
measure on them.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gilles.thesee" <gilles.thesee(at)wanadoo.fr> |
| Subject: | Someone flying on Jabiru 6 cylinders ? |
Hi all,
Is someone out there flying on the new 6 cylinder Jabiru ?
I'd appreciate any comment on engine operation, maintenance, reliability.
How does it compare to the rotax 912 S ?
I'm trying to determine which is best for my present MCR 4S four seater
project. In case the Jabiru has not yet gathered sufficient flight time and
experience, I'll opt for the proven rotax.
Thanks in advance for any facts or user advice.
Cheers,
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aucountry(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: cerminil or steel cylinders |
In a message dated 1/19/01 6:18:22 AM, John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil writes:
<< That would have been the Vega 4 cyl. which was silicon impregnated. it was
a failure, and I made a lot of money machining and installing cast iron
sleeves as a remedial measure on them. Archie >>
Not entirely true. It was high silocon content aluminum. None-the-less...
Funny how Porsche uses the same process in their engines and it works just
fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MIKE HOUSEWERT <mhousewert(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Someone flying on Jabiru 6 cylinders ? |
TNK IS FLYING A 4 CYLINDER JABIRU ON THE NEW KOLBRA. THEY MAY HAVE INSIGHT AS
TO WHO MAY BE FLYING ONE WITH 6 CYLINDERS.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Livingston John W Civ ASC/ENFD <John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil> |
| Subject: | cerminil or steel cylinders |
Hey, I didn't say that. Archie said that. I had a Vega. It worked fine.
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Aucountry(at)aol.com [mailto:Aucountry(at)aol.com]
Sent: Friday, January 19, 2001 2:14 PM
Subject: Re: RE: RE: Engines-List: cerminil or steel cylinders
In a message dated 1/19/01 6:18:22 AM, John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil writes:
<< That would have been the Vega 4 cyl. which was silicon impregnated. it
was
a failure, and I made a lot of money machining and installing cast iron
sleeves as a remedial measure on them. Archie >>
Not entirely true. It was high silocon content aluminum. None-the-less...
Funny how Porsche uses the same process in their engines and it works just
fine.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: cerminil or steel cylinders |
>
>
> In a message dated 1/19/01 6:18:22 AM, John.Livingston(at)wpafb.af.mil
writes:
>
> << That would have been the Vega 4 cyl. which was silicon impregnated. it
was
> a failure, and I made a lot of money machining and installing cast iron
> sleeves as a remedial measure on them. Archie >>
>
> Not entirely true. It was high silocon content aluminum.
None-the-less...
> Funny how Porsche uses the same process in their engines and it works just
> fine.
During the remedial process, GM engineers could not come up with a fix.
Took TRW & Sealed Power to produce the cast iron sleeve kit.
The Silicon was only applied in the cylinder wall area, and not throughout
the block. I may still have my display cutaway illustrating this.
I have machined many Porsche engines, (not of late), and they were using
Nicosil applied to the cylinder walls.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | aquila33(at)webtv.net (dann mann) |
| Subject: | Re: cerminil or steel cylinders |
In high school a friend had a Vega with that motor. We drove that thing
practically 24 hours a day sometimes including a few trips from Michigan
to Florida and back. It never let us down. Started burning oil at about
65000 miles. The car fell apart but the engine ran fine. Maybe he got a
good one. American auto companies built some real junk back then.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DRogers(at)maf.org (Dan Rogers) |
| Subject: | Re: Someone flying on Jabiru 6 cylinders ? |
How about trying a Corvair. Six cyl opposed, aluminum block and
heads. Completely overhauled and converted to aircraft for $3000 or
less.
Dan Rogers
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Engines-List: Someone flying on Jabiru 6 cylinders ?
Date: 1/19/01 7:02 AM
Hi all,
Is someone out there flying on the new 6 cylinder Jabiru ?
I'd appreciate any comment on engine operation, maintenance, reliability.
How does it compare to the rotax 912 S ?
I'm trying to determine which is best for my present MCR 4S four seater
project. In case the Jabiru has not yet gathered sufficient flight time and
experience, I'll opt for the proven rotax.
Thanks in advance for any facts or user advice.
Cheers,
Gilles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Tarabocchia <zodiac.builder(at)verizon.net> |
"zenith-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | 0-200 Mixture Control.... |
I'm installing an 0-200 to my Zodiac 601 hds. It has a Marvel (Ma-3SPA)
carburetor. The mixture control lever faces towards the rear of the
engine. My problem is that I do not know which direction on the lever
does what. It came off of a C150. But I didn't have any opportunity to
see the installation while it was on the airplane. Does any one have any
idea of the proper way to hook up the control cable to this carb?
I appreciate any help......
--
John W. Tarabocchia
601hds N6042T Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
Airframe 100% Complete...
Installing Wire and Engine...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 9 Msgs - 01/19/01 |
| From: | Greg P Jannakos <gpjann(at)juno.com> |
There is a Sonex builder from Carolina flying a Jabiru3300.
Check their web site - sonex-ltd.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Quilters Confectionery <qltconf(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 4 Msgs - 01/20/01 |
John,
The mixture control goes counter clockwise to lean. Rich is fully up
against the stop clockwise. This is looking down on the carburetor. I have
a 150 and am probably going to build a 601 or 801 in about a year.
My 0200A runs great on auto gas with the EAA STC. The hookup is via a
drilled bolt to hold the control wire on to the control arm. Use the
mixture control assembly from Spruce to have good lock on the setting.
Good Luck, Larry :-) Pilot owner of N22017
>From: John Tarabocchia <zodiac.builder(at)verizon.net>
> "zenith-list(at)matronics.com"
>Subject: Engines-List: 0-200 Mixture Control....
>
>
>I'm installing an 0-200 to my Zodiac 601 hds. It has a Marvel (Ma-3SPA)
>carburetor. The mixture control lever faces towards the rear of the
>engine. My problem is that I do not know which direction on the lever
>does what. It came off of a C150. But I didn't have any opportunity to
>see the installation while it was on the airplane. Does any one have any
>idea of the proper way to hook up the control cable to this carb?
>
>I appreciate any help......
>
>--
>
>John W. Tarabocchia
>
>601hds N6042T Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
>
>Airframe 100% Complete...
>Installing Wire and Engine...
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BERNDSENCO(at)aol.com |
Hi Gilles,
I have been following the Jabiru engines for a number of years and currently
have a 3300 engine and Jabiru airplane kit on the way from Australia. The
Jabiru 3300 is lighter weight and 20 more HP than the Rotax 912S and is a
proven engine designed solely for and CERTIFIED for aircraft use. I think
you are going to see the 2200 80 HP and the 3300 120 HP engines take a huge
bite out of the Rotax market share. It is a wonderful engine. And less
expensive than the Rotax 912 too. More and more kit manufactures are making
the Jabiru an option for their planes, they see the writing on the wall! By
the way, Jabiru is developing an 8 cylinder that is to put out around 200 HP!
Join the Jabiru Builders Group at jabirubuilders(at)egroups.com and you'll
be able to talk to dozens of guys with 3300 engines installed on a variety of
airplanes.
Jon Berndsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | I'm looking for a dyna-focal engine for my RV-4 O-235, |
O-290, O-320
Hi Guys,
I'm looking to buy something between 125 hp & 160 hp, Dyna-focal mount
for my RV-4, preferably with some hours left on it before I have to overhaul
it. I would like to find a good, no a GREAT! price. And while I'm
dreamin'... it could come with everything, be near where I live, and/or the
seller willing to deliver it, oh did I mention the seller should be an AP-IA
who just happens to rebuild engines to NASA micrometer specs. for a hobby.
Let me know any and all (even if they don't quite meet my dreams exactly).
Thanks...
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dralle(at)matronics.com (Matt Dralle) |
| Subject: | Matronics Web Server Upgrade... |
B
Dear Listers,
I will be upgrading the Matronics Web Server this afternoon (1/21/01)
and will be taking it offline for a number of hours. I hope to have it
back online by this evening sometime, depending on how well the upgrade
goes.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle(at)matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Great minds discuss ideas,
Average minds discuss events,
Small minds discuss people...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: I'm looking for a dyna-focal engine for my RV-4 O-235, |
O-290, O-320
| From: | "thomas r. jones" <tom144(at)juno.com> |
>
> Hi Guys, I'm looking to buy something between 125 hp & 160 hp,
Dyna-focal
> mount> for my RV-4, preferably with some hours left on it ............
Chuck, too bad it's not an RV6 or 6A. You could go the Chevy V-6 route.
Initially half the cost of a Lycoming, and at rebuild time, a few hundred
bucks or a whole new engine for $2000. Oh well, good luck on your quest
I'm sure you'll find a good engine somewhere. I'm going with an
aluminum 262CID V8 in my RV4
Tom
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: I'm looking for a dyna-focal engine for my RV-4 |
O-235, O-290, O-320
try Donny Green he has a 0290,,,1-360-687-0299
Chuck Rabaut wrote:
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> I'm looking to buy something between 125 hp & 160 hp, Dyna-focal mount
> for my RV-4, preferably with some hours left on it before I have to overhaul
> it. I would like to find a good, no a GREAT! price. And while I'm
> dreamin'... it could come with everything, be near where I live, and/or the
> seller willing to deliver it, oh did I mention the seller should be an AP-IA
> who just happens to rebuild engines to NASA micrometer specs. for a hobby.
> Let me know any and all (even if they don't quite meet my dreams exactly).
> Thanks...
>
> Chuck
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Conners <jconners_98(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | How to determine total time on engine |
I have located a Lycoming O290D engine which is
installed in an experimental airplane. The owner does
not know the total time on the engine nor has an
engine logbook.
What records are available from FAA or other sources
which may contain the total time? How do I obtain
this information?
Please assist.
Jer
=====
Jerry L. Conners, PE
Civil Engineer
775-688-1253 (work)
775-688-1255 (work FAX)
775-847-0214 (home)
PO Box 509
Virginia City, Nevada 89440
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to determine total time on engine |
sorry Jer..there are no records available for an engine that has been used in
an experimental a/c...however if the engine still has a data plate on
it...look on the oil sump...that is a start..it MAY tell you the information
of what exactly the engine is...0290gpu, 0290-2d, ect...the best thing to do
is to tale a sample of the oil and send it out to be checked...that will tell
you what condition the engine is in...fast..if you don't know how to read the
analisys, talk to your freindly IA or A&P..he SHOULD be able to assist you in
this matter...also if you can beg, borrow, or steal a mechanic that has a
bore scope to look at the cyls, that is another good check..has the engine
been sitting for a long time without being run..if so the rings have possibly
taken a set, and you need a "top" overhaul..I do pre-purchase inspections all
the time and DO travel..not bragging too much, but I have saved a LOT of
money for a LOT of people..I am located in oregon...503-678-3343..hope this
note helps...btw, you are far better to find a certified run out engine
domething like a 0320 E2D and major it ...we do that also here, for prices
far lower than a big shop would, because we are small...good luch to you
Jerry Conners wrote:
>
> I have located a Lycoming O290D engine which is
> installed in an experimental airplane. The owner does
> not know the total time on the engine nor has an
> engine logbook.
>
> What records are available from FAA or other sources
> which may contain the total time? How do I obtain
> this information?
>
> Please assist.
>
> Jer
>
> =====
> Jerry L. Conners, PE
> Civil Engineer
> 775-688-1253 (work)
> 775-688-1255 (work FAX)
> 775-847-0214 (home)
> PO Box 509
> Virginia City, Nevada 89440
>
> Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "BLACKLER, Wayne" <wayne.blackler(at)baesystems.com> |
| Subject: | How to determine total time on engine |
G'Day Jer,
I'd find out the registration of the aircraft from whence it came. Then go
though the FAA for details on the aircraft history and chase from there. I
personally am not sure it's worth the effort. Something better usually lies
around the corner.
In the end, I bit the bullet and bought a Bart LaLonde O-360 for my modified
Long EZ.
Wayne Blackler
BAE SYSTEMS Australia Limited
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Conners [mailto:jconners_98(at)yahoo.com]
Sent: Monday, 22 January 2001 12:44
Subject: Engines-List: How to determine total time on engine
I have located a Lycoming O290D engine which is
installed in an experimental airplane. The owner does
not know the total time on the engine nor has an
engine logbook.
What records are available from FAA or other sources
which may contain the total time? How do I obtain
this information?
Please assist.
Jer
=====
Jerry L. Conners, PE
Civil Engineer
775-688-1253 (work)
775-688-1255 (work FAX)
775-847-0214 (home)
PO Box 509
Virginia City, Nevada 89440
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Delano" <mdelano(at)bwn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to determine total time on engine |
Lycoming can tell you the original application of the engine from the enjine
S/N that is cast in the crankcase, but that is about all. The FAA will not
have a history of this engine. Bottom line, there is no way to determine time
on an engine without its complete history / log books. Even logs can be
incorrect or just plain fiction. The only way to know the condition of an
engine for sure is to overhaul it.
Mark Delano
A&P EAA Tech Councilor
Jerry Conners wrote:
>
> I have located a Lycoming O290D engine which is
> installed in an experimental airplane. The owner does
> not know the total time on the engine nor has an
> engine logbook.
>
> What records are available from FAA or other sources
> which may contain the total time? How do I obtain
> this information?
>
> Please assist.
>
> Jer
>
> =====
> Jerry L. Conners, PE
> Civil Engineer
> 775-688-1253 (work)
> 775-688-1255 (work FAX)
> 775-847-0214 (home)
> PO Box 509
> Virginia City, Nevada 89440
>
> Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
> http://auctions.yahoo.com/
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to determine total time on engine |
where is the ser# cast on a lycoming engine?...part numbers, yes, but the data
plate is what THIS GADO goes by...thanks..I have a lyc 0290 D2 here in the shop,
and spent a bit of time looking for it..(ser#) anywhere but on the data
plate..thanks for your help
"M. Delano" wrote:
>
> Lycoming can tell you the original application of the engine from the enjine
> S/N that is cast in the crankcase, but that is about all. The FAA will not
> have a history of this engine. Bottom line, there is no way to determine time
> on an engine without its complete history / log books. Even logs can be
> incorrect or just plain fiction. The only way to know the condition of an
> engine for sure is to overhaul it.
> Mark Delano
> A&P EAA Tech Councilor
>
> Jerry Conners wrote:
>
> >
> > I have located a Lycoming O290D engine which is
> > installed in an experimental airplane. The owner does
> > not know the total time on the engine nor has an
> > engine logbook.
> >
> > What records are available from FAA or other sources
> > which may contain the total time? How do I obtain
> > this information?
> >
> > Please assist.
> >
> > Jer
> >
> > =====
> > Jerry L. Conners, PE
> > Civil Engineer
> > 775-688-1253 (work)
> > 775-688-1255 (work FAX)
> > 775-847-0214 (home)
> > PO Box 509
> > Virginia City, Nevada 89440
> >
> > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
> > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Conners <jconners_98(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to determine total time on engine |
Thank you.
Jer
=====
Jerry L. Conners, PE
Civil Engineer
775-688-1253 (work)
775-688-1255 (work FAX)
775-847-0214 (home)
PO Box 509
Virginia City, Nevada 89440
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Conners <jconners_98(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to determine total time on engine |
Thank you.
Jer
=====
Jerry L. Conners, PE
Civil Engineer
775-688-1253 (work)
775-688-1255 (work FAX)
775-847-0214 (home)
PO Box 509
Virginia City, Nevada 89440
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Conners <jconners_98(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | How to determine total time on engine |
Thank you,
Jer
=====
Jerry L. Conners, PE
Civil Engineer
775-688-1253 (work)
775-688-1255 (work FAX)
775-847-0214 (home)
PO Box 509
Virginia City, Nevada 89440
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Conners <jconners_98(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to determine total time on engine |
Thank you. Very helpful.
Jer
=====
Jerry L. Conners, PE
Civil Engineer
775-688-1253 (work)
775-688-1255 (work FAX)
775-847-0214 (home)
PO Box 509
Virginia City, Nevada 89440
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry Conners <jconners_98(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | US Military used engine |
Can anyone provide the military contacts (telephone or
email) to determine the history of a military used
Lycoming engine?
Jer
=====
Jerry L. Conners, PE
Civil Engineer
775-688-1253 (work)
775-688-1255 (work FAX)
775-847-0214 (home)
PO Box 509
Virginia City, Nevada 89440
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M. Delano" <mdelano(at)bwn.net> |
| Subject: | Re: How to determine total time on engine |
The engine Part# & Ser# is stamped on a flat cast at the upper rear case bolt.
I
have an O-230E2D that was missing the oil sump / Data Plate when I purchased it.
A
call to Lycoming comfermed the process to obtain a new Data Plate and there history
on the engin, (1968 C172). I sent a letter to FAA requesting a Letter Of
Authorization for Lycoming to issue a new plate. The FAA letter was forwarded to
Lycoming with payment, and two weeks later a new Data Plate arrived. FAA requested
I
notify them when the new plate was installed on the engine. The replacement was
predicated on the stamped number on the case and my statement that it was missing.
The information is there if you know where to look.
Mark Delano
A&P Eaa Tech.Councelor
old ogre wrote:
>
> where is the ser# cast on a lycoming engine?...part numbers, yes, but the data
> plate is what THIS GADO goes by...thanks..I have a lyc 0290 D2 here in the shop,
> and spent a bit of time looking for it..(ser#) anywhere but on the data
> plate..thanks for your help
>
> "M. Delano" wrote:
>
> >
> > Lycoming can tell you the original application of the engine from the enjine
> > S/N that is cast in the crankcase, but that is about all. The FAA will not
> > have a history of this engine. Bottom line, there is no way to determine time
> > on an engine without its complete history / log books. Even logs can be
> > incorrect or just plain fiction. The only way to know the condition of an
> > engine for sure is to overhaul it.
> > Mark Delano
> > A&P EAA Tech Councilor
> >
> > Jerry Conners wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > I have located a Lycoming O290D engine which is
> > > installed in an experimental airplane. The owner does
> > > not know the total time on the engine nor has an
> > > engine logbook.
> > >
> > > What records are available from FAA or other sources
> > > which may contain the total time? How do I obtain
> > > this information?
> > >
> > > Please assist.
> > >
> > > Jer
> > >
> > > =====
> > > Jerry L. Conners, PE
> > > Civil Engineer
> > > 775-688-1253 (work)
> > > 775-688-1255 (work FAX)
> > > 775-847-0214 (home)
> > > PO Box 509
> > > Virginia City, Nevada 89440
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
> > > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: How to determine total time on engine |
learn something new every day...didn't know that...thanks for the information......J.
dawson
"M. Delano" wrote:
>
> The engine Part# & Ser# is stamped on a flat cast at the upper rear case bolt.
I
> have an O-230E2D that was missing the oil sump / Data Plate when I purchased
it. A
> call to Lycoming comfermed the process to obtain a new Data Plate and there history
> on the engin, (1968 C172). I sent a letter to FAA requesting a Letter Of
> Authorization for Lycoming to issue a new plate. The FAA letter was forwarded
to
> Lycoming with payment, and two weeks later a new Data Plate arrived. FAA requested
I
> notify them when the new plate was installed on the engine. The replacement was
> predicated on the stamped number on the case and my statement that it was missing.
> The information is there if you know where to look.
> Mark Delano
> A&P Eaa Tech.Councelor
>
> old ogre wrote:
>
> >
> > where is the ser# cast on a lycoming engine?...part numbers, yes, but the data
> > plate is what THIS GADO goes by...thanks..I have a lyc 0290 D2 here in the
shop,
> > and spent a bit of time looking for it..(ser#) anywhere but on the data
> > plate..thanks for your help
> >
> > "M. Delano" wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > Lycoming can tell you the original application of the engine from the enjine
> > > S/N that is cast in the crankcase, but that is about all. The FAA will not
> > > have a history of this engine. Bottom line, there is no way to determine
time
> > > on an engine without its complete history / log books. Even logs can be
> > > incorrect or just plain fiction. The only way to know the condition of an
> > > engine for sure is to overhaul it.
> > > Mark Delano
> > > A&P EAA Tech Councilor
> > >
> > > Jerry Conners wrote:
> > >
> > > >
> > > > I have located a Lycoming O290D engine which is
> > > > installed in an experimental airplane. The owner does
> > > > not know the total time on the engine nor has an
> > > > engine logbook.
> > > >
> > > > What records are available from FAA or other sources
> > > > which may contain the total time? How do I obtain
> > > > this information?
> > > >
> > > > Please assist.
> > > >
> > > > Jer
> > > >
> > > > =====
> > > > Jerry L. Conners, PE
> > > > Civil Engineer
> > > > 775-688-1253 (work)
> > > > 775-688-1255 (work FAX)
> > > > 775-847-0214 (home)
> > > > PO Box 509
> > > > Virginia City, Nevada 89440
> > > >
> > > > Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
> > > > http://auctions.yahoo.com/
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Robbie Mabry <cen68149(at)centurytel.net> |
| Subject: | Re: US Military used engine |
Jerry,
The military won't have records on smaller engines that have gone out to
surplus. When we surplused an engine all but the latest records were
disposed of and the latest records went with the engine unless someone
decided it was too much bother and dumped them.
Robbie
Jerry Conners wrote:
>
> Can anyone provide the military contacts
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Military Contacts |
JER, somewhere I have the e-mail address of the Air Force historian at
Maxwell AFB, AL. They have a card on each aircraft that was in the inventory
by serial number, so they might have the same on engines. I got info on the
military history of my T41A from them.
If nothing else, try the web page at www.maxwell.af.mil and se what you get
there. In the mean time, I'll try and find the exact address for you.
Ed Woerle (an O.F. with too many airplanes)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Tate" <tate(at)onlinemac.com> |
Does anyone have a weight comparison between the 290 vs. 320 Lycoming? Do
they have the same tbo?
TIA
Ed Tate
Northwest Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
>
> Does anyone have a weight comparison between the 290 vs. 320 Lycoming? Do
> they have the same tbo?
> TIA
> Ed Tate
> Northwest Oregon
Ed, interestingly enough, I work on these, and never
did an actual weight. Based on visual and handling
experience, I would guess a negligible increase of
the 320.
I do not have my TBO list before me, but believe they
are the same. This is moot due to the fact it is
meaningless in our homebuilt applications, and most
engines need work before recommended TBO.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tuned intake & exhaust |
Hello,
I'm building a turbo charged 1liter 3cyl engine with port injection;
redundant computers & 2 high pressure fuel pumps. I pesently have a 3lb., 9
amp Kubota dynametor. 9 amps will probably be insufficient or at least
close to it. What is the lightest auto altenator available? If you know
the year, make & model that would be helpful. Thanks for any suggestions.
Richard Swiderski
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Antonio Alves" <antonio.alves(at)mail.telepac.pt> |
| Subject: | RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/30/01 |
Engines-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Tue 01/30/01: 1
____
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Tuned intake & exhaust
Hello,
I'm building a turbo charged 1liter 3cyl engine with port injection;
redundant computers & 2 high pressure fuel pumps. I presently have a 3lb.,
9
amp Kubota dynamotor. 9 amps will probably be insufficient or at least
close to it. What is the lightest auto altenator available? If you know
the year, make & model that would be helpful. Thanks for any suggestions.
Richard Swiderski
Why not consider a two-30A solution?
You could have a breaker for each one, and check if any one is defective
before takeoff.
Also is possible to have overvoltage, and overcharge protecting your
investment in case your battery fail, it happens!
Antonio Alves
R. Joao Frederico Ludovice, 26 -5E
1500 Lisbon
Portugal
Fax. +351 21 760 1533
TM. +351 96 901 3912
antonio.alves(at)mail.telepac.pt
Astronomy hobby: http://www.amtsgym-sdbg.dk/as/ags2.htm
Aviation hobby: http://aeroceu.50megs.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ngines-List: |
| From: | "thomas r. jones" <tom144(at)juno.com> |
Richard, try one of the Honda alternators, Civic, etc. Very light and
over 30 amps...I'm sending you some information direct about fuel
injection engines and things to think about with your installation. Good
flying.........tom
I presently have a 3lb., 9 amp Kubota dynamotor. 9 amps will probably
be insufficient or at least close to it. What is the lightest auto
altenator available?
>
>
> Richard Swiderski
>
>tom jones DONOT ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: ngines-List: |
| From: | "thomas r. jones" <tom144(at)juno.com> |
writes:
> Richard, try one of the Honda alternators, Civic, etc. Very light and
> over 30 amps...I'm sending you some information direct about fuel
> injection engines and things to think about with your installation.
> Good flying.........tom
>
> I presently have a 3lb., 9 amp Kubota dynamotor. 9 amps will
> probably be insufficient or at least close to it. What is the
> lightest auto altenator available?
> >
> >
> > Richard Swiderski
> >
> >tom jones DONOT ARCHIVE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ron Vande Weghe <ronvdw(at)ebtech.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/30/01 |
> From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
> Subject: Re: Engines-List: Tuned intake & exhaust
> Hello,
> I'm building a turbo charged 1liter 3cyl engine with port injection;
> redundant computers & 2 high pressure fuel pumps. I pesently have a 3lb., 9
> amp Kubota dynametor. 9 amps will probably be insufficient or at least
> close to it. What is the lightest auto altenator available? If you know
> the year, make & model that would be helpful. Thanks for any suggestions.
>
>
Richard:
I'm assuming your 3cyl engine is from a Chev Sprint or Geo. Why not use the
alternator that came with it?
The alternator from a late 1980's - mid 1990's Chev Sprint (Firefly, Geo) weighs
about
8lbs. and has 55amp output. There are lots available at the auto wreckers or auto
parts stores at very reasonable prices. They are also very simple to wire into
your
electrical system.
Ron.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/30/01 |
Ron,
Thanks for the reply. Yes most of it is from a Sprint. I'm just trying
to get the lightest possibe. I'm trying for 6lbs target. Richard S
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Vande Weghe" <ronvdw(at)ebtech.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 7:02 PM
Subject: Engines-List: Re: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 01/30/01
>
>
> > From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
> > Subject: Re: Engines-List: Tuned intake & exhaust
> > Hello,
> > I'm building a turbo charged 1liter 3cyl engine with port injection;
> > redundant computers & 2 high pressure fuel pumps. I pesently have a
3lb., 9
> > amp Kubota dynametor. 9 amps will probably be insufficient or at least
> > close to it. What is the lightest auto altenator available? If you
know
> > the year, make & model that would be helpful. Thanks for any
suggestions.
> >
> >
>
> Richard:
> I'm assuming your 3cyl engine is from a Chev Sprint or Geo. Why not use
the
> alternator that came with it?
> The alternator from a late 1980's - mid 1990's Chev Sprint (Firefly, Geo)
weighs about
> 8lbs. and has 55amp output. There are lots available at the auto wreckers
or auto
> parts stores at very reasonable prices. They are also very simple to wire
into your
> electrical system.
> Ron.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ngines-List: |
Tom,
Thanks for your reply & the great info on auto conversions! It is much
appreciated. ...Richard Swiderski
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas r. jones" <tom144(at)juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 31, 2001 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: Engines-List:
>
> Richard, try one of the Honda alternators, Civic, etc. Very light and
> over 30 amps...I'm sending you some information direct about fuel
> injection engines and things to think about with your installation. Good
> flying.........tom
>
> I presently have a 3lb., 9 amp Kubota dynamotor. 9 amps will probably
> be insufficient or at least close to it. What is the lightest auto
> altenator available?
> >
> >
> > Richard Swiderski
> >
> >tom jones DONOT ARCHIVE
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Tarabocchia <zodiac.builder(at)verizon.net> |
"engines-list(at)matronics.com" ,
"zenith-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | ACS Cable Tension Meter |
Does anyone know how to use the Aircraft Spruce Cable Tension meter.
Darn thing has no instructions....
--
John W. Tarabocchia
601hds N6042T Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
Airframe 100% Complete...
Installing Wire and Engine...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Isaacs" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Fuel return line |
I hope someone can give me a little direction reguarding the fuel return
line. I am Installing a Multi-Port-Fuel-Injected engine in my Zodiac
601XL which has leading edge tanks, I'm am gravity feeding a 2gal
header/surge tank from the 3/8" tee line coupled wing tanks. I am using
a duel electric fuel pumps out of the header tank w/ 1/4" line feeding
the fuel rails.
The big question is should I have my fuel return line going back to the
header tank or teed back to the 2 leading edge tanks?
Has body worked this issue before or any susgestions would be helpfur.
Bob
ZODIAC N601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jack Steele" <visteele(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel return line |
Robert,
How are you getting fuel into the header tank from the wing tanks by
gravity?
Jack Steele
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Isaacs" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2001 10:00 AM
Subject: Engines-List: Fuel return line
>
> I hope someone can give me a little direction reguarding the fuel return
> line. I am Installing a Multi-Port-Fuel-Injected engine in my Zodiac
> 601XL which has leading edge tanks, I'm am gravity feeding a 2gal
> header/surge tank from the 3/8" tee line coupled wing tanks. I am using
> a duel electric fuel pumps out of the header tank w/ 1/4" line feeding
> the fuel rails.
> The big question is should I have my fuel return line going back to the
> header tank or teed back to the 2 leading edge tanks?
> Has body worked this issue before or any susgestions would be helpfur.
>
> Bob
> ZODIAC N601XL
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Isaacs" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel return line |
The 3/8" fuel line from each wing tank is gravity feed. The EA82 Subaru MPFI
engine is supplied via 1/4" line to the wye fitting, feeding the duel fuel
rails.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Steele" <visteele(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2001 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Fuel return line
>
> Robert,
> How are you getting fuel into the header tank from the wing tanks by
> gravity?
>
> Jack Steele
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert Isaacs" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net>
> To:
> Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2001 10:00 AM
> Subject: Engines-List: Fuel return line
>
>
>
> >
> > I hope someone can give me a little direction reguarding the fuel return
> > line. I am Installing a Multi-Port-Fuel-Injected engine in my Zodiac
> > 601XL which has leading edge tanks, I'm am gravity feeding a 2gal
> > header/surge tank from the 3/8" tee line coupled wing tanks. I am using
> > a duel electric fuel pumps out of the header tank w/ 1/4" line feeding
> > the fuel rails.
> > The big question is should I have my fuel return line going back to the
> > header tank or teed back to the 2 leading edge tanks?
> > Has body worked this issue before or any susgestions would be helpfur.
> >
> > Bob
> > ZODIAC N601XL
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ualski <ualski(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Engine for sale: O-200A |
I have a Continental O-200A for sale:
Real 100HP
1320.6 SMOH, 551.6 STOH
Slick mags w/harnesses & all plugs
Vacuum pump
Starter (cable engage type)
Generator
Carburetor & manifold
Logbook with history since last overhaul.
~6gph fuel consumption at cruise (based on our C150)
This engine was removed from a wind damaged C150 which was repaired and
a lower time engine installed. I was going to install it in my CH-701
but after considering the low margins on the firewall strength of the
CH-701 for such a heavy engine as compared to the recomended Rotax 912
weight range for which the aircraft is designed, and also thinking
more about fuel consumption I've done some investigating and I'm going
to use the Jabiru 2200. This engine is in good shape and is properly
stored with oil in the cylinders and all openings sealed off. It's been
checked by an IA and given a clean bill of health. If you're building
a Zenair aircraft, they can provide proper mounts for the 601 & 701.
My asking price is $4600 but keep in mind that I'm aware that value is in
the eye of the beholder and so I'm willing to negotiate. My email address
is ualski(at)earthlink.net, or call me during the day at (719) 567-8346.
The engine and I are located near Colorado Springs, CO (Falcon next to
meadowlake airport to be specific).
-- Aaron Sliwinski
ualski(at)earthlink.net
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLMJohnson(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Fuel return line |
In a message dated 2/4/2001 9:28:55 PM Eastern Standard Time,
bob999(at)worldnet.att.net writes:
> The big question is should I have my fuel return line going back to the
> > > header tank or teed back to the 2 leading edge tanks?
In my installation (Cozy MK IV RG with EG33) I have the two wing tanks
gravity feeding into a sump of about six to eight gallons. The pumps then
draw the fuel from the sump. The return line then feeds the sump tank. I
chose this configuration so that I could use every last ounce of fuel from
the main tanks if there is an emergency and have the six to eight gallons in
the sump as the reserve. If the fuel returns to one or both of the wing tanks
then the flow of fuel to the sump, by gravity may be impaired if the
aeroplane is not quite level, or in a climb/decent and the wing tank/tanks
are near exhaustion. The downside of my configuration is that vapour will
occur in the sump tank due to the pressure drop at the pressure regulator
valve. It is important to get rid of this vapour. Just a simple 1/4 inch vent
line will not work. It requires that something more substantial like a 1/2
inch vent line to a venting header is necessary.
I hope this helps.
Phillip Johnson
Cozy MKIV RG Powered by Subaru EG33
www.geocities.com/plmjohnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dor J Burkholder" <djburkholder(at)starpower.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-200 Mixture Control.... |
I have a Franklin 4A235B31 , 120 Hp engine with the same carburetor. With
the mixture arm in the 7 pm position` is full rich & the 5pm position is
lean. This assumes 120-clock is CL forward, & that the people I've talked to
are correct. They also indicated that I must get the mechanism to " work
backward" to the motion of the handle on the panel. So, now I've turned into
an aerinotical engineer, designing a mechanism that will bolt to the side of
the oil pan to hold the throttle cable casing while making a forward motion
of the mixture cable pull the mixture arm esentially" backwards". This is
just one of __ problems i'm working on. If you've found out otherwise,
please return the reply. Jim Zodie 601HD
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Piers Herbert" <piers.herbert(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Temperature question? |
I am designing an "ECAS" type engine information display.
It is intend that the user will be able to choose the units of measurement,
i.e. Celsius / bar / litre (European) or Fahrenheit / PSI / US Gal (USA).
My question is: would all US / Canadian pilots prefer Fahrenheit or should
we also provide the option of Celsius / PSI / US Gal?
Piers Herbert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Devany" <jdevany(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | Temperature question? |
Piers:
As an US pilot, I prefer fahrenheit, PSI, & US gallons.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Piers
Herbert
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 2:20 AM
Subject: Engines-List: Temperature question?
I am designing an "ECAS" type engine information display.
It is intend that the user will be able to choose the units of measurement,
i.e. Celsius / bar / litre (European) or Fahrenheit / PSI / US Gal (USA).
My question is: would all US / Canadian pilots prefer Fahrenheit or should
we also provide the option of Celsius / PSI / US Gal?
Piers Herbert
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Temperature question? |
As an airline pilot in Canada who's flown Douglas, Lockheed, Boeing and
Airbus, I prefer kilos and Centigrade but still like psi.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Devany <jdevany(at)olypen.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | old ogre <jollyd(at)teleport.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-200 Mixture Control.... |
somethinmg is wrong!..it may be me...however when was the last time this carb was
overhauled by a competant repair person?..I have never heard of a carb on an aircraft
engine (small) that worked that way....what model carb is it?...and what are the
numbers?...that way I can tell you if you are even using the right aircraft carb...hope
this helps...
Dor J Burkholder wrote:
>
> I have a Franklin 4A235B31 , 120 Hp engine with the same carburetor. With
> the mixture arm in the 7 pm position` is full rich & the 5pm position is
> lean. This assumes 120-clock is CL forward, & that the people I've talked to
> are correct. They also indicated that I must get the mechanism to " work
> backward" to the motion of the handle on the panel. So, now I've turned into
> an aerinotical engineer, designing a mechanism that will bolt to the side of
> the oil pan to hold the throttle cable casing while making a forward motion
> of the mixture cable pull the mixture arm esentially" backwards". This is
> just one of __ problems i'm working on. If you've found out otherwise,
> please return the reply. Jim Zodie 601HD
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-200 Mixture Control.... |
I encountered this problem while building a Pitts back in the early '70s.
The one arm on the carb worked in reverse of the action of the cable end.
The fix, after much headscratching, was simple- using a lever type throttle
or mixture quadrant in the cockpit, just change the cable attach point to
the other side of the lever pivot point. For example, if the cable was
attached above the pivot, moving the lever forward would extend the end of
the cable whereas changing the attach point to below the pivot would result
in the actuating end retracting when the control is moved forward.
Hope I've explained this well enough and that it will help.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dor J Burkholder <djburkholder(at)starpower.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: 0-200 Mixture Control....
>
> I have a Franklin 4A235B31 , 120 Hp engine with the same carburetor. With
> the mixture arm in the 7 pm position` is full rich & the 5pm position is
> lean. This assumes 120-clock is CL forward, & that the people I've talked
to
> are correct. They also indicated that I must get the mechanism to " work
> backward" to the motion of the handle on the panel. So, now I've turned
into
> an aerinotical engineer, designing a mechanism that will bolt to the side
of
> the oil pan to hold the throttle cable casing while making a forward
motion
> of the mixture cable pull the mixture arm esentially" backwards". This is
> just one of __ problems i'm working on. If you've found out otherwise,
> please return the reply. Jim Zodie 601HD
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Temperature question? |
| From: | "thomas r. jones" <tom144(at)juno.com> |
Piers,
I prefer fahrenheit, PSI, & US gallons.
ALSO ALONG THAT LINE, AT THE FOLLOWING ADDRESS ARE REALLY GREAT TOOLS FOR
CONVERTING ALL TYPE OF NUMBERS, ETC. IT'S CALLED "JEFF'S PAGES"
http://members.aol.com/wbox/index.htm
TOM RV4 & 6A
> I am designing an "ECAS" type engine
>> would all US / Canadian pilots prefer Fahrenheit or
> should we also provide the option of Celsius / PSI / US Gal?
>> Piers Herbert
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | I'm still looking for an engine |
Hi Guys and Gals,
I found out that the 0320 H2AD's won't hang on my dyna-focal mount (they
require a special dyna-focal mount). I'm looking for an engine with a few
hundred hours left before I have to learn over hauling. Can be an O-235,
O-290, or an O-320, I just need something in-expensive that will hook up to
my RV-4 dyna-focal mount. Any and all referrals would be greatly
appreciated. Thank you all, in advance, for your assistance.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mark Wood <mawood(at)zoo.uvm.edu> |
| Subject: | Temperature question? |
>As an US pilot, I prefer fahrenheit, PSI, & US gallons.
>Jim
>It is intend that the user will be able to choose the units of measurement,
>i.e. Celsius / bar / litre (European) or Fahrenheit / PSI / US Gal (USA).
>
>My question is: would all US / Canadian pilots prefer Fahrenheit or should
>we also provide the option of Celsius / PSI / US Gal?
>Piers Herbert
As a US citizen I have to go by what the FAA wants, But wouldn't it be
great if the USA would join the rest of the world and use real units
instead of the awful units we use.
Mark
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "gilles.thesee" <gilles.thesee(at)wanadoo.fr> |
| Subject: | Re: Temperature question? |
Welcome to the metric system !
Nice to meet our American friends in the world of "real units". We've been
waitng for you for so long...;-)
Cheers,
Gilles
Grenoble, France
>
> As a US citizen I have to go by what the FAA wants, But wouldn't it be
> great if the USA would join the rest of the world and use real units
> instead of the awful units we use.
>
> Mark
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PLMJohnson(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Temperature question? |
In a message dated 2/8/2001 4:00:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mawood(at)zoo.uvm.edu writes:
> As a US citizen I have to go by what the FAA wants, But wouldn't it be
> great if the USA would join the rest of the world and use real units
> instead of the awful units we use.
Hear Hear,
I do all of my calculations and measurements in metric units and convert back
to imperial just to communicate with others.
Phillip Johnson
Cozy MKIV RG S/N 0030 Powered by Subaru EG33
www.geocities.com/plmjohnson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Piers Herbert" <piers.herbert(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Temperature question? |
Seems I opened a bit of a can of worms here.
Thanks everyone for your helpful replies.
Piers
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ashley & Margaret Johnston" <Jabiru.nz(at)xtra.co.nz> |
It is definitely true that something rather dramatic may have happened and
to the best of my knowlege no one any longer offers Jabiru Engines at a
massive 54% more money than their homeland export price.
There will soon be a number of outlets throughout the USA and also reliable
backup service.
I myself will soon have a .com website based here in New Zealand. There will
also be a Spanish version. We intend to feature all of Jabiru products but
there is no doubt I may have to come into line with other USA outlets with
slightly more realistic pricing to fund a wider base of promotion outside
the sphere of that which has only been internet based. However in the
meantime it is business as usual here at Jabiru New Zealand.
Jabiru are presently tooling for the new 6000cc 180 hp @ 2700 rpm eight
cylinder Engine and this will hit the market sometime later in the year.
Jabiru SP 2200 Aircraft Kits complete with Engines are available delivered
anywhere in the USA or Canada at more than $6000 US less than ever before
but I am unable to field enquiries prior to Wednesday February 15th.
Kindest regards to all
Ashley Johnston
Jabiru New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Frank and Linda Reed <reedpilots(at)yahoo.com> |
I'm involved with precison optical components. This
industry seems to be somewhere in its own little world
regarding units of measure. We routinely see, on the
same drawing, diameters in inches, thickness in mm and
it's not uncommon to see a dimension in mm with the
tolerance in inches.
Frank Reed
RV-6A Flying
N89PC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
| Subject: | liquid cooled cylinders |
I saw an ad recently for liquid cooled cylinders. Does anyone know if
these are in production now or for future engines? Will there be any
retrofitting for current engines?
Dave Ford
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: liquid cooled cylinders |
| From: | "thomas r. jones" <tom144(at)juno.com> |
by: "dave ford"
I saw an ad recently for liquid cooled cylinders. Does anyone know
if these are in production now or for future engines? Will there be
any retrofitting for current engines? Dave Ford
Hey Dave, they're called Chevy engines! You can get the whole engine for
less than one of those conversion cylinders................
The conversion cylinders are on the Internet with prices. Liquid Cooled
Air Power has a nice web site at:
http://www.liquidcooledairpower.com/news.html
Enjoy, Tom Jones RV6A Chevy powered.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | liquid cooled cylinders |
| From: | "thomas r. jones" <tom144(at)juno.com> |
by: "dave ford"
I saw an ad recently for liquid cooled cylinders. Does anyone know
if these are in production now or for future engines? Will there
be any retrofitting for current engines? Dave Ford
Hey Dave, they're called Chevy engines! You can get the whole Chevy
engine for less than one of those conversion cylinders..........
The conversion cylinders are on the Internet with prices. Liquid
Cooled Air Power has a nice web site at:
http://www.liquidcooledairpower.com/news.html
Enjoy, Tom Jones RV6A Chevy powered.
Tom Jones
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Begnaud" <Shoeless(at)barefootpilot.com> |
| Subject: | Re: liquid cooled cylinders |
Dave,
Here is an email I just received from them about the water cooled cylinders.
Sounds like a good idea, just unbelievably expensive.
Cliff
Hi Cliff,
Cliff Begnaud wrote:
>
> I was looking over your web site and saw no mention of a radiator. In the
> pictures on your site the only thing that resembles a radiator is the
right
> side picture of the Cherokee at Long Beach. Is this the radiator? Is air
> ducted from the normal cooling openings in the front of the cowl, or do
you
> use a separate cooling duct?
Yes, we located the radiator on the right side of the engine compartment
behind the engine.
We will be ducting air from a single boundary layer separated lower
scoop to the radiator as well as the oil cooler and engine induction
air.
> What is the total weight penalty of your system on an O-360 over a stock
> engine? Please be as complete as possible by including EVERYTHING (weight
of
> radiator, weight of coolant, weight of coolant lines etc, etc)
>
> Finally, what is the component cost for an O-360, please include a list of
> what is included.
> I am building a RV9A and will need an engine sometime this year. I would
> seriously consider having one rebuilt using your cylinders as I have some
> experience with water cooled engines in my current plane (Kitfox with
Rotax
> 912 UL). I understand and appreciate the benefits of liquid cooling and
> think you have a great idea.
>
> I wish you success in your business and look forward to hearing from you.
>
> Sincerely,
> Cliff
Thank you for your inquiry.
Our Cool Jugs conversion kit is just that - a kit that converts
virtually any wide or narrow deck O-360 or O-540 series Lycoming engine
to liquid cooling. This includes carbureted, fuel injected,
turbocharged and turbo-normalized engines. Running liquid cooled the
cylinder head temps are maintained at a steady 190 deg F (+/- 5 deg F).
Cylinder to cylinder temp variance is essentially eliminated as all
cylinder temps run within 2 deg F of each other. Shock cooling and
heating are *completely* eliminated.
Cool Jugs is a complete, bolt-on kit that will allow a conventional air
cooled O-360 or O-540 parallel valve Lycoming engine to be converted to
liquid cooling. The result is a fully liquid cooled aircraft piston
engine. An engine that operates at a stable 190 degF without any* need
for airflow over or through the engine compartment.
The Cool Jugs liquid cooled conversion requires absolutely no internal
engine modifications! In fact no existing reciprocating/moving
components are changed in any manner. The conversion creates only one
additional moving part - the coolant pump, which is grear driven via a
standard accessory pad.
Normally aspirated engines can be run a peak lean EGT or even at 50 deg
F lean of peak EGT at *all* power settings and RPMs providing you with
substantial fuel savings and *more* power. You also have the option of
using the higher compression 9.0:1 pistons for even greater power. The
stock O-360 engines typically run 8.5:1 pistons. Our dyno testing shows
that an O-360 with 9.0:1 pistons puts out 195HP at 28"Hg manifold
pressure at peak EGT resulting in a fuel burn of 11.7gph without even a
hint of detonation. Keep in mind this is at sea level pressure. The
best an air-cooled O-360 can do is around 12.5gph at peak EGT, 28"Hg
manifold pressure and that's with occasional detonation occuring.
In fact as part of our dyno testing we ran a detonation survey on our
liquid cooled O-360 in an attempt to discover if and under what
conditions detonation might occur. What we found was that we could run
the engine at wide open throttle (28"HG manifold pressure) at peak EGT
and even at 50 degF lean of peak EGT and load the engine down to 1600
rpm (as much load as the dyno could apply) and left it there for as
long as 20 minutes without so much as a hint of detonation. That's
practically the equivalent of running wide open throttle with a
feathered propeller.
The reason you get more power when running at peak lean EGT is because
you aren't cooling the combustion mixture with excess fuel so you get
more thermal energy and in turn more power. You absolutely don't have
to be concerned about 'burning up' our liquid cooled engine running at
peak EGT or even 50 deg F lean of peak EGT - even at sea level manifold
pressure. In fact running at peak EGT at all times will actually
improve the life expectancy of the engine since it prevents the buildup
of lead deposits.
For reference a typical air-cooled O-360 running at wide open throttle
(28"Hg) at full rich will consume over 18gph. Even at altitudes above
3000' when leaning is possible, an air-cooled O-360 will consume more
fuel because it is (a) running much hotter, around 380-400 degF and (b)
due to uneven cylinder temps, you can only lean until the hottest
cylinder starts to misfire.
You should consider that installing a liquid cooled engine in any
airframe will require re-design of the cowling since our engine does
not require any* airflow through the engine compartment. You should
also consider where you might be able to locate the radiator. You will
need approx. 5000 CFM of cooling air for the radiator. This is about
1/3 the amount of air that is required for an air cooled installation.
A well designed low drag radiator installation should incorporate a
relatively small air intake and a ducted air plenum to the radiator
that provides for at least a 3-4 times expansion of the air intake.
*Note: A small volume of 'breather' air is recommended for cooling the
alternator and generally keeping the engine compartment ventillated
against any buildup of fumes. You may also need separate cooling air
for the magnetos and possibly the fuel pump.
The radiator for the O-360 engine is fairly small (14" h x6" w x6" d)
and could be mounted in the engine compartment or remotely depending on
the airframe. We can have a custom radiator built to meet your needs.
A properly designed installation would be to have no more than a 24 sq"
intake and a ducted plenum that gradually expands to meet the radiator
face which is actually 12"x6" (72 sq"). The expansion rate should be
limited to 15 deg in order to prevent undesirable turbulence from
developing within the plenum. This may in some cases result in an
expansion plenum that is too long for a given airframe installation to
be practical. In such cases internal vanes can be incorporated in the
plenum in order to spearate and maintain a 15 deg expansion path.
For more information take a look at the following site:
http://www.inforamp.net/~raac/CoolingSystems/CoolingSystemsIndex.HTML
Weight
------
A typical conversion will add an additional 30-35 lbs to an engine
installation. This weight includes all of the components, radiator,
hoses and coolant. The coolant is the largest percentage of additional
weight since water (glycol/water mix) weighs 8lbs/gal and the typical
system requires 2 to 2.5 gallons of coolant. A significant portion (12
lbs) of this weight can be offset by installing a lightweight starter.
Given the potential performance improvements both in terms of drag
reduction and engine life expectancy we feel confident that the
additional weight of a liquid cooled engine will be more than offset by
its benefits.
While we can't address the potential of additional weight savings in
every airframe but we can tell you that in converting a Piper PA28-180
to liquid cooling we expect to offset a significant portion of the
additional weight with a *much* lighter cowling. The redesigned cowling
will be built from carbon fiber and we anticipate that it will be
approx. 10-12lbs lighter than the original cowling. This savings along
with the removal of the aircooled baffling and changing the induction
air box will result in an additional 7-8 lbs of weight savings.
Overall, with the lightweight starter (12lbs), cowling (10lbs),
air-cooled baffling (3lbs) and induction air box changes (5lbs) we have
managed to achieve 30lbs of weight savings - virtually offsetting all
of the weight gain of the liquid cooled O-360.
Certification
-------------
Currently the Cool Jugs liquid cooled conversion kits are not FAA
certified and are for experimental use only. Liquid Cooled Air Power
is persuing FAA certification and are hoping to achieve certification
by mid to late 2001.
Pricing
-------
Our Cool Jugs conversions are available for both the O-360 series and
O-540 series engines.
The Cool Jugs conversion kit includes:
. New nitrided cylinders/valve train
All valve train components are New FAA-PMA
approved parts:
o Intake and Exhaust valves
o Valve seats
o Valve Springs
o Rocker Arm bushings
o Top end gasket set
o Rocker box covers
. Coolant manifold Coolant pump
. Thermostat housing & thermostat
. Engine hoses
o Steel braided Aeroquip 1000psi test hose
o AN fittings
. Custom designed Coolant system monitoring gauge
and transducers.
o Coolant Temperature
o Coolant pump output pressure
o Low Coolant warning
We offer a 7 year/3000 hour pro-rata, limited warranty on the major
components which include the liquid cooled cylinders, valve train
(limited to the intake & exhaust valves, valve seats and springs) and
the coolant pump.
We may extend the calendar limit of our warranty as our field
experience grows.
Our conversion kit does not include a radiator or engine to radiator
hoses since each airframe's installation requirements are unique.
The O-360 kit is priced at $12,995 and the O-540 kit is priced at
$18.995
We will have kits ready to ship in Jan '01. We offer field support to
assist with installation and on going support.
If you email me your address we will send out a more complete brochure
on the conversion kit.
Thank you for your interest. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you
have any additional questions.
Sincerely,
Bob Atkins
Liquid Cooled Air Power, Inc.
>
> I saw an ad recently for liquid cooled cylinders. Does anyone know if
> these are in production now or for future engines? Will there be any
> retrofitting for current engines?
>
> Dave Ford
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Benford2(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 02/10/01 |
I talked to the guys out in california at liquid cooled and they have a real
nice piece.
They are already shipping the product so it is ready now. Kit comes with
everything
except the radiators. It is great for cabin heat. They are pretty pricey
though, still it is a great idea.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Elbie(at)aol.com (by way of Matt Dralle 925-606-1001 <dralle(at)matronics.com>) |
2/9/2001
Fellow Pilots and Builders:
EM aviation is pleased to announce that the RiteAngle III Angle of
Attack system is in production. I know this has been a long, long wait for
some of you, however I will not sell a system that is not up to my standards.
The long delay was partially caused by the total new design required
after the RiteAngle 2000 system was terminated. The remainder of the delay
was insuring the system met all our requirements such as both hot and cold
environment testing. The first production group of systems off the line
are being again extensively tested for approximately 2 weeks before we
deliver any systems to insure there are no "bugs" appearing.
When all production testing is accomplished I will ship according to who
has sent in the order form via fax or US mail. (Again, DO NOT send your
credit card number via e-mail! I DO NOT have a secure e-mail line.)
If you want a spot in line for early delivery you can request this via
e-mail, and mail your check or CC number.
At present time I estimate 4- 10 weeks before your delivery, depending on
when I receive your payment.
To those of you who have been in correspondence with me for the last year,
thanks for your belief in EM aviation's product, and soon you will have a
product in your hands. I honor my correspondence of the quoted price.
Current price $295 + mount & options see web site for information.
www.riteangle.com
Elbie Mendenhall
President
EM Aviation, LLC
P NE Prairie Rd
Brush Prairie WA 98606
360-260-0772
www.riteangle.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Tarabocchia <zodiac.builder(at)verizon.net> |
"engines-list(at)matronics.com" ,
"zenith-list(at)matronics.com"
Today was the day I would start my used 0-200. Everything was checked,
fuel, electrical, oil added. Well I sat in the cockpit and started to
turn on the appropriate switches. I then pulled the handle for the pull
starter. It turned several times and didn't fire up. Well it hasn't
been running in over a year. I figured it would take a little working.
Then I tried it again, while the starter was engaged , there was a loud
bang and the prop stopped cold. I got out to investigate and found that
the prop would not move. I got real nervous at this point. Once I
realized that something was wrong internally I started to look for the
likely suspect. I pulled the alternator off and found the the gear on
the alternator broke off completely. This stopped the motor from
turning. Then I looked to see if there was any more damage. Well I
found, when I took the starter off, that the engaging gear was ground
down very bad. I inspected the engine case gears and found that the
starter gear had only a bit of grazing and really didn't look to bad.
Now I'm left with a ton of questions. I called Wentworth Aircraft,
where I purchased the engine, and they said they would replace any parts
required. Which I found to be fair at this time. I also have some
ground up metal from the ground starter gear on internal parts of the
engine (gears, case and mag gears, ect.). How do I get these properly
cleaned up. Or do I let the oil carry it away when I finally do get it
started up.
Any help or comments would be greatly appreciated.
--
John W. Tarabocchia
601hds N6042T Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
Airframe 100% Complete...
Installing Wire and Engine...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
Some of those fragments can easily fall into the sump.
At the very least remove and check it.
Also, look at the accessory case carefuly. Some minor
particles are sharp and can imbed into the housing, and
unseen can loosen up and fall out whern the aluminum
heats up. Also check the cam gear runout and appearance.
You cannot be too careful or clean.
Unless you are a purist, invest in a good aftermarket
starter such as B&G and eliminate that extra drive gear.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Tarabocchia <zodiac.builder(at)verizon.net> |
Archie wrote:
>
> Some of those fragments can easily fall into the sump.
> At the very least remove and check it.
> Also, look at the accessory case carefuly. Some minor
> particles are sharp and can imbed into the housing, and
> unseen can loosen up and fall out whern the aluminum
> heats up. Also check the cam gear runout and appearance.
> You cannot be too careful or clean.
> Unless you are a purist, invest in a good aftermarket
> starter such as B&G and eliminate that extra drive gear.
> Archie
>
Hi Archie,
My mechanic and I have already mapped out a plan similar to your
suggestion. Several other listers had the same recommendations. If
after doing this and my mechanic feels that things look good, I will
button everything up and try to start it again. If he finds any evident
that the particle went any further than the cast then I will bite the
bullet and tear it down and over haul it.
Thank you very much for you suggestion.
-
John W. Tarabocchia
601hds N6042T Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
Airframe 100% Complete...
Installing Wire and Engine...
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Temperature question? |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)telus.net> |
Although I no longer relate to Fahrenheit for air temperature, I still do
for engine oil temperature, so that would be my preference. I do fuel in
pounds.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
> From: "Piers Herbert" <piers.herbert(at)ntlworld.com>
> Reply-To: engines-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 10:19:54 -0000
> To:
> Subject: Engines-List: Temperature question?
>
>
>
> I am designing an "ECAS" type engine information display.
>
> It is intend that the user will be able to choose the units of measurement,
> i.e. Celsius / bar / litre (European) or Fahrenheit / PSI / US Gal (USA).
>
> My question is: would all US / Canadian pilots prefer Fahrenheit or should
> we also provide the option of Celsius / PSI / US Gal?
>
>
> Piers Herbert
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Muzzy Norman E" <MuzzyNormanE(at)JohnDeere.com> |
| Subject: | Mag configuration for IO360A3B6D |
I am interested in converting my dual mag single drive system to one of the
following:
Electronic ignition system with triggering at the prop flange plus single
mag mounted on the accessory case
-or-
Dual Electronic ignition with a prop flange mounted sensor and a sensor
mounted in the accessory case location.
My question is: Does the gear end of my dual mag system look like the gear
end of a conventional mag? If it does, than either of the above options are
available. If the configuration is different, then I will either need to
maintain the dual mag single drive configuration, run with Electronic
ignition off the crank sensor (prop flange) and just not hook up one side of
the dual mag, or swap accessory cases. At this time, I am not interested in
changing accessory cases. I am also not interested (at this time) in
running with a single triggering system off the crank end for two electronic
ignition systems.
Does anyone have any knowledge of what I am getting into here?
Regards-
Norm Muzzy
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag configuration for IO360A3B6D |
Piece of cake.
Building racing engines for a living, we have done
away with generator mags over twenty five years ago.
I have converted several ac engines to full crank trigger
using all the components from MSD, and a bit of machine
work.
The advantages are manyfold, including accuracy of
not taking up a sloppy gear mechanism, being
able to triple the plug gap, easier starting, and
redundancy.
I will not get into the details here, but when you see
the components, it is essentially a no-brainer.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aucountry(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mag configuration for IO360A3B6D |
In a message dated 2/14/01 12:34:27 PM, archie97(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< Piece of cake.
Building racing engines for a living, we have done
away with generator mags over twenty five years ago.
I have converted several ac engines to full crank trigger
using all the components from MSD, and a bit of machine
work.
The advantages are manyfold, including accuracy of
not taking up a sloppy gear mechanism, being
able to triple the plug gap, easier starting, and
redundancy.
I will not get into the details here, but when you see
the components, it is essentially a no-brainer.
Archie >>
Archie, any plans to do this to certified engines? Perhaps distributorless
type with individual coils?
Gary
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Mag configuration for IO360A3B6D |
> Archie, any plans to do this to certified engines? Perhaps
distributorless
> type with individual coils?
>
> Gary
That's easy enough to incorporate, also.
But....... Not worth my trouble for an STC.
We are largely dealing with political beaurocrats
that go by rules their predecessors have made up,
and only want to get their retirement, therefore will not
stick their necks out regardless of how much merit
the modification has.
Thank goodness for experimental/ homebuilt/ kitplanes.
Due to that movement, engines are slowly coming
out of the dark ages, and aircraft do not look like
flying bricks.
A long answer to a simple question, but if you have
attended any of my OSH forums, you know of my
attitude toward uneducated paper pushers that
command more power than common sense.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Aucountry(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Mag configuration for IO360A3B6D |
In a message dated 2/14/01 5:37:35 PM, archie97(at)earthlink.net writes:
<< We are largely dealing with political beaurocrats
that go by rules their predecessors have made up,
and only want to get their retirement, therefore will not
stick their necks out regardless of how much merit
the modification has.
Thank goodness for experimental/ homebuilt/ kitplanes.
Due to that movement, engines are slowly coming
out of the dark ages, and aircraft do not look like
flying bricks.
A long answer to a simple question, but if you have
attended any of my OSH forums, you know of my
attitude toward uneducated paper pushers that
command more power than common sense.
Archie >>
I couldn't agree more with your editorial
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Tarabocchia <zodiac.builder(at)verizon.net> |
"engines-list(at)matronics.com" ,
"zenith-list(at)matronics.com"
| Subject: | 0-200 Woes...... |
Well after quite a bit of good information from fellow listers, my
mechanic, and my DAR (also A&P). I decided to tear down the case.
After careful inspection, I found that the metal fragments from the
starter gear, did travel beyond the accessory case. I found metal on
the rear piston bases, the rear connecting rods, and the crankshaft. I
weighed my options, taking into consideration my financial situation,
work involved, and the time SMOH, and decided to tear the motor down,
clean all internal parts, and inspect for damage. I will re-assemble
the case with all new gaskets. I will have to replace the crankshaft
gear which is the gear the starter clutch gear tore into. I decided to
do the top end with new OEM cylinder assemblies. The cheapest way to go
at this time, yet keep a good piece of mind.
Any thoughts would be very welcome. Thanks to all that sent me all that
valuable information and suggestions.
--
John W. Tarabocchia
601hds N6042T Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
Airframe 100% Complete...
Installing Wire and Engine...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JOEL CARROLL <drcarroll_2000(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-200 Woes...... |
what about a magnetic sump plug?
jkc
--- John Tarabocchia
wrote:
>
>
> Well after quite a bit of good information from
> fellow listers, my
> mechanic, and my DAR (also A&P). I decided to tear
> down the case.
> After careful inspection, I found that the metal
> fragments from the
> starter gear, did travel beyond the accessory case.
> I found metal on
> the rear piston bases, the rear connecting rods, and
> the crankshaft. I
> weighed my options, taking into consideration my
> financial situation,
> work involved, and the time SMOH, and decided to
> tear the motor down,
> clean all internal parts, and inspect for damage. I
> will re-assemble
> the case with all new gaskets. I will have to
> replace the crankshaft
> gear which is the gear the starter clutch gear tore
> into. I decided to
> do the top end with new OEM cylinder assemblies.
> The cheapest way to go
> at this time, yet keep a good piece of mind.
>
> Any thoughts would be very welcome. Thanks to all
> that sent me all that
> valuable information and suggestions.
>
> --
>
> John W. Tarabocchia
>
> 601hds N6042T Web Site:
> http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
>
> Airframe 100% Complete...
> Installing Wire and Engine...
>
>
>
> through
>
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
> Matronics!
>
>
>
>
>
Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail - only $35
a year! http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: 0-200 Woes...... |
| From: | Tom Brandon <majortom(at)apex.net> |
Been there
I would dump that pull starter & get a B&C electric. They're wonderful, you
would not be sorry.
>
> Well after quite a bit of good information from fellow listers, my
> mechanic, and my DAR (also A&P). I decided to tear down the case.
> After careful inspection, I found that the metal fragments from the
> starter gear, did travel beyond the accessory case. I found metal on
> the rear piston bases, the rear connecting rods, and the crankshaft. I
> weighed my options, taking into consideration my financial situation,
> work involved, and the time SMOH, and decided to tear the motor down,
> clean all internal parts, and inspect for damage. I will re-assemble
> the case with all new gaskets. I will have to replace the crankshaft
> gear which is the gear the starter clutch gear tore into. I decided to
> do the top end with new OEM cylinder assemblies. The cheapest way to go
> at this time, yet keep a good piece of mind.
>
> Any thoughts would be very welcome. Thanks to all that sent me all that
> valuable information and suggestions.
>
> John W. Tarabocchia
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-200 Woes...... |
>
> Been there
> I would dump that pull starter & get a B&C electric. They're wonderful,
you
> would not be sorry.
Ditto on that.
Easier starting, Less weight, Fewer parts, and all new components.
I have installed several, and all have been pleased.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Velvick <tomvelvick(at)home.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-200 Woes...... |
> > I would dump that pull starter & get a B&C electric. They're wonderful,
>Ditto on that.
>Easier starting, Less weight, Fewer parts, and all new components.
>I have installed several, and all have been pleased.
Yes, but they are $800 each, they had better be good.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
N67EZ Varieze
N188KJ reserved rv-6a wiring
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Tarabocchia <zodiac.builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-200 Woes...... |
JOEL CARROLL wrote:
>
> what about a magnetic sump plug?
>
> jkc
>
I'm sorry, I didn't understand the question. What is a magnetic sump plug?
What is it used for?
John W. Tarabocchia
601hds N6042T Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
Airframe 100% Complete...
Installing Wire and Engine...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Tarabocchia <zodiac.builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-200 Woes...... |
Tom Brandon wrote:
>
> Been there
> I would dump that pull starter & get a B&C electric. They're wonderful, you
> would not be sorry.
>
>
I checked out their site. Found the unit to be reasonably price as far as
aviation equipment goes. Their is a modification that needs to be done. It is
easier to do it when the motor is apart. So I'm going to try and swing the
extra cash and do it now.
John W. Tarabocchia
601hds N6042T Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
Airframe 100% Complete...
Installing Wire and Engine...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 0-200 Woes...... |
>
> >
> > what about a magnetic sump plug?
> >
> > jkc
> >
>
> I'm sorry, I didn't understand the question. What is a magnetic sump
plug?
> What is it used for?
It is merely a plug with a magnet affixed.
You can make one if need be. We use them in
race cars in Engine,Transmission, and Differential.
Some have electrical contacts that will register a
warning light if a number of particles are picked up.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tom Brandon <majortom(at)apex.net> |
I just recieved the Ha Ha messege. I didn't open it and deleted it
immediately.
I'm using a Macintosh, so mayby I'm OK.
Just thought I'd let everybody know it's still going around.
do not achive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 02/16/01 |
> > Been there
> >
In '62 with just a few hours on my Funk, Cont C-85-12, I had the starter
return spring break, starter engaged while taxiing out. I know rear cases,
oil pumps, mag gears are a lot more expensive now than they were then. For
those of you using the pull type starter make it a preflight item, I
actually used 2 springs after that with no more problems, Just once is all it
takes. Thankfully I was taxiing when it went.
Elbie
Elbie Mendenhall
EM aviation, LLC
www.riteangle.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Looking for a Dyna-Focal Engine for my RV-4 |
Hi Guys (and Gals),
My last two engine purchases went south on me. The H2AD's don't fit
and I found an O-235 but it subsequently turned out to be a conical mount.
Sooo I'm back in the market, cash at the ready, plane justa sittin'
waitin', and I'm still looking for an O-320, O-290, or even an O-235,
dyna-focal mount engine. Please, if you can refer me to someone or refer
them to me I'd appreciate it. Thank you, in advance, for your assistance.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Isaacs" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Has anyone tried a Subaru EA82 Turbo w/ the MPFI Singe overhead Cam. If
so I would like to know if they are flying now and how dose it perform.
I am thinking about using one in my 601XL
Bob
N601XL
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <rich(at)carol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a Dyna-Focal Engine for my RV-4 |
check out...
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=561105592
Chuck Rabaut wrote:
>
>
> Hi Guys (and Gals),
>
> My last two engine purchases went south on me. The H2AD's don't fit
> and I found an O-235 but it subsequently turned out to be a conical mount.
> Sooo I'm back in the market, cash at the ready, plane justa sittin'
> waitin', and I'm still looking for an O-320, O-290, or even an O-235,
> dyna-focal mount engine. Please, if you can refer me to someone or refer
> them to me I'd appreciate it. Thank you, in advance, for your assistance.
>
> Chuck
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a Dyna-Focal Engine for my RV-4 |
Rich,
Thanks for the ebay post, but it's an H2AD.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Russ and Brenda" <rbee797(at)mnsi.net> |
| Subject: | Looking for a Dyna-Focal Engine for my RV-4 |
can some one explain to me what model of 0-320 engine will fit my motor
mount. I have just purchased a Zenair ch300 air frame kit, from an estate.
The kit came with a motor mount for a
0-320 . The mount has four flat parallel bushings on the engine mount side.
Any help would be appreciated
Russ Brunelle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck
Rabaut
Sent: Thursday, February 22, 2001 6:08 AM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Looking for a Dyna-Focal Engine for my RV-4
Rich,
Thanks for the ebay post, but it's an H2AD.
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Looking for a Dyna-Focal Engine for my RV-4 |
Russ & Brenda,
Have a "Pro" look at it, but based solely on how you describe it (and my
perception of what you are describing) it is a conical mount; not a
dyna-focal. Now you have to go out and find what O-320 with a "conical
mount" (and with or without sump, fuel pump, etc... ad infinitum..) will fit
in your cowling. Good Luck, it aint been easy for me so far.
Chuck
P.S. Yes Folks I'm still looking for an O-320 dyna-focal mount for my RV-4,
any help is appreciated greatly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Vaso(at)Bovan.com" <vaso(at)bovan.com> |
| Subject: | Fixed vs C/S Prop ? |
I'm building a Glastar. I've ordered a Superior/Mattituck XP-360 engine
(parallel-valve "IO-360" clone, 180hp, FADEC, Ney Nozzles). I now need to
settle on a propeller. I want 3-blade, mainly for lower noise (I'm willing
to accept a slight top speed penalty). The big question is: Fixed vs C/S ?
I'd like some informed advice.
I'm told a C/S prop is no faster than a properly pitched foxed prop at
cruise. Also, the Glastar is already a very good short-field performer, so
the advantage of running a C/S prop at fine pitch is not as significant as
with some other aircraft. So what exactly is the advantage of a C/S prop ?
The FADEC system will already optimize fuel consumption significantly, so is
there sufficient difference in fuel consumption and engine wear by running a
C/S prop at high MP/low rpm to justify weight penalty/complexity of a C/S
prop ? What exactly is the problem with "lugging" an engine at high MP and
low rpm and would a FADEC system detect this and compensate ?
The three prime competitors are (C/S) Whirlwind Model 150, (C/S) MT-Prop,
and a novel "quasi-C/S" Global QCS prop. The MT-Prop propeller is available
but pricey. The Global QCS prop is several years late in development. Also,
the Global QCS has composite blades that flex - and there is some skepticism
that a composite blade which flexes can be made safe from catastrophic
failure. Lastly, the Whirlwind Model 150 is also late in development and it
appears original weight predictions cannot be met.
Comments ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Isaacs" <bob999(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Exhaust Manifold |
Can anyone help me, I am looking for a used exhaust manifold for the
1989-1990 Subaru EA82 Turbo MPFI engine. I need the section from the
exhaust port to the Turbo.
Thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE:C/S vs. fixed prop |
Check this out. It explains why a Sensenich fixed prop may be better than a
C/S prop.
Click here: Penn Yan Aero
Service STC / Page 3
http://www.sensenich.com/stc/pyhwkpg3.htm
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Chuck Rabaut" <crabaut(at)coalinga.com> |
| Subject: | Does an O-320 E2D, wide deck, fit an RV-4 cowling? |
To anyone who knows... Does an O-320 E2D, wide deck, fit an RV-4 cowling?
Chuck
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W Livingston" <jliving(at)erinet.com> |
| Subject: | RE:C/S vs. fixed prop |
A lot depends on the aircraft's top speed as well. The lower the top speed
the less need for a constant speed prop. I would venture to say that as an
aircraft's top speed approaches 200 mph the benefits of a CS prop start to
shine. I don't think a C 180 goes fast enough to get much benefit from a CS
prop. Of course we all know about the $ downside.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
KahnSG(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 10:55 AM
Subject: Engines-List: RE:C/S vs. fixed prop
Check this out. It explains why a Sensenich fixed prop may be better than a
C/S prop.
Click here: Penn Yan
Aero
Service STC / Page 3
http://www.sensenich.com/stc/pyhwkpg3.htm
Steve
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: RE:C/S vs. fixed prop |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)telus.net> |
On a related note, here's an article by Eustace Bowhay on the Sensenich 72FM
prop, installed on an RV-6A. It performed well compared to Eustace's
CS-equipped RV-6.
http://www.vansairforce.org/articles/eng_sensenich_72FM.html
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcculleyja(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Looking for a Dyna-Focal Engine for my RV-4 Date: Feb 24, |
2001
According to Lycoming publication SSP-393, May 1993 (you may want to check
with Lycoming for a later version of SSP-393) it appears there are only two
O-320 versions with conical mounts: the O-320-A2D, 150 HP, 7:1 CR and the
O-320-B2D, 160 HP, 8.5:1 CR. The first one was used in the Citabria 7GCAA
and 7GCBC. The second one was used in the Maule MX7-160. Hope this helps.
Jim McCulley
mcculleyja(at)aol.com
----------------------------------
> what model of 0-320 engine will fit my motor
>mount. I have just purchased a Zenair ch300 air frame kit,The mount has
four flat >parallel bushings on the engine mount side.
>Russ Brunelle
---------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter J Beaty" <Peter.J.Beaty(at)usa.dupont.com> |
| Subject: | RE:C/S vs. fixed prop |
Oh, I don't know about that ! I fly a C-182 stiff-leg with c/s speed prop,
and there's a big difference (15 kts) in cruise at even 3000 ft. Plus, it
climbs reallly good !
Pete.
"John W Livingston" on 02/26/2001 04:03:46 PM
Please respond to engines-list(at)matronics.com
Subject: RE: Engines-List: RE:C/S vs. fixed prop
I don't think a C 180 goes fast enough to get much benefit from a CS
prop.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ashley & Margaret Johnston" <Jabiru.nz(at)xtra.co.nz> |
Yes it is business as usual at Jabiru New Zealand
Current prices delivered worldwide to Customs release
Jabiru 2200 80 hp Engines = $6650 US
Jabiru 3300 120 hp Engines = $9675 US
Jabiru SP Full Kit Aircraft including 2200 Engine and instrument package
$22,100 US
Taildragger or UL version add $600 US
Jabiru SP Full Kit Aircraft including 3300 Engine and instrument package
$25,500 US
Taildragger or UL version add $600 US
A large range of FF Kits available with or without Cowls
Check the details on these magnificent products @ www.jabiru.net.au
Further enquiries welcome to jabiru.nz(at)xtra.co.nz
Kindest regards
Ashley Johnston
Jabiru New Zealand
________________________________________________________________________________
I need the following two Rotax parts, for a 447 Free Air engine: P/N
951-285, Mounting Plate, and P/N 827-830, Cover Washer. If anyone has a
parts engine, or these parts laying around for sale, please let me know.
I am also still interested in a set of original plans for a Rose Parakeet.
Thanks for any help.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Devany" <jdevany(at)olypen.com> |
Hi:
I am having a little problem with mag drop. My plugs are REM 40E and have
about 75 hours on them. I have cleaned them the other day because of an
excessive mag drop. They spark ok when I compression test them on the
Champion tester.
When I run up the engine for the mag check after a 10 minute warmup and taxi
out, I get a 140 to 150 mag drop. I sit there and heat up the engine for a
few more minutes at 1900 RPM with it leaned out and recheck the mags. They
usually drop to around 80 to 100 RPM range which is ok. I have been using
100LL instead of 80 octane because of unavailability. The weather has been
down in the 30 degree F range when I crank and have taken quite a bit more
priming action to keep the cold engine going initially.
Airborne, it is smooth as a cat. Does anyone have any ideas as to why this
is happening?
Jim
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jayeandscott" <jayeandscott(at)home.com> |
Is it a Lycoming with a Carburetor? Had the same problem with a friend's
RV-4. Went away if the mixture was leaned aggressively immediately after
engine start and kept there until runway lineup. Cold engine causes fuel
vapor to condense on interior surfaces between metering device( carb) and
the cylinder interior. This condensation results in a leaner mixture than
the carb delivered so more is sent-via the mixture lever- to compensate for
it. The fuel vapor that has condensed onto the intake pipe walls flows
slowly towards the cylinder due to the airflow and eventually enters the
cylinder but as droplets too big to burn in time for complete combustion and
they settle on the nose of the sparkplug as well as the piston dome.
While carrying the mixture lever along with the throttle lever whenever any
power changes were made worked well, it was a pain and not always remembered
by the three teenage boys getting their licences on the aircraft. A
subsequent change of the lower plugs to a more foul-resistant model that
looks more like a lawnmower sparkplug than a massive-electrode type greatly
reduced the problem.
Some other thoughts-What colour is the inside of the exhaust pipe tip after
the short ground run? If there is a black soot evident that easily wipes
off, the mixture is too rich. Having to use the primer to keep it going is a
sure way to foul the plugs.
A rough start followed by smoothing out following thermal expansion could
indicate a stuck valve- the Lycomings are prone to this after 400-500 hrs
depending on mixture management.
There are a couple of other things that could be at fault but it's probably
the above.
Hope it helps-
Scott Jackson,
RV6 Finish, ex Pitts, ex 172,exT210.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Devany <jdevany(at)olypen.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 7:21 AM
Subject: Engines-List:
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ned Miller <ned(at)coe.missouri.edu> |
| Subject: | Re: ngines-List: |
Jim,
Sounds like lead fouling to me. 100LL has a LOT of lead in it. I have an
old Cont. engine and run about 3/4 unleaded auto gas to 1/4 100LL or my
plugs foul (That mixture (1/4 100LL) still has more lead than the old
unleaded gasoline!) If I run pure 100LL I get a lot of lead fouling on
the plugs and valves.
Ned
>
>Hi:
>
>I am having a little problem with mag drop.......
Ned Miller
Heart of Missouri
Regional Professional Development Center
1-573-882-3794
205 London Hall
College of Education
Missouri University
Columbia, MO 65211
1-800-214-2753
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Tarabocchia <zodiac.builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ngines-List: |
Ned Miller wrote:
>
> Jim,
> Sounds like lead fouling to me. 100LL has a LOT of lead in it. I have an
> old Cont. engine and run about 3/4 unleaded auto gas to 1/4 100LL or my
> plugs foul (That mixture (1/4 100LL) still has more lead than the old
> unleaded gasoline!) If I run pure 100LL I get a lot of lead fouling on
> the plugs and valves.
> Ned
>
>
You can try using TCP to keep the lead under control.
--
John W. Tarabocchia
601hds N6042T Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
Airframe 100% Complete...
Tearing Down 0-200...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcculleyja(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | RE: Mag Drop Problem |
From: "Jim Devany" <jdevany(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Engines-List:
I agree with the comments/suggestions by Scott Jackson. Lycoming says you
can not harm the engine with aggressive leaning even to the point of rough
running as long as the power level is well below 70-75%. A practice of
immediately leaning after start-up and keeping the mixture leaned during all
ground operations except during the run-up and just before full power for
takeoff is a good practice. In an engine that calls for 80/87 octane but is
being operated with 100LL, this is even more important in order to minimize
lead deposits. Never idling below 1,000 RPM, when possible, is also a big
help since the fuel additives that minimize lead deposits are not active at
combustion temperatures below that of 1,000-1,200 RPM.
Lycoming also recommends a shut-down procedure that is very helpful to purge
the combustion chamber (primarily, plug electrodes) of lead and carbon
deposits and therefore make the subsequent start-up much quicker and
smoother. The procedure is to let the engine temperatures stabilize (before
shut-down) by running at 1,200 RPM for a few minutes, followed by then
running at 1,800 RPM for 20-30 seconds ( during which is a good time to do a
quick mag check to assure that each mag is indeed grounding- for safety's
sake after shut-down). At the end of the 20-30 seconds, bring the throttle
back to 1,000-1,200 RPM and immediately put the mixture in idle cut-off.
This procedure leaves the plugs in optimum clean condition for the next
start-up.
Using these procedures, I have operated for many hundreds of hours without
either sticking valves or starts that take more than one to two blades after
hitting the starter regardless of the ambient or engine temperature, if above
freezing. Hope this helps.
Jim McCulley: mcculleyja(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Devany" <jdevany(at)olypen.com> |
| Subject: | RE: Mag Drop Problem |
Jim:
This like excellent advice to me. Thank you. I'll be using it during the
coming week and will let you know if the problem alleviates.
Jim Devany
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Mcculleyja(at)aol.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 9:37 AM
Subject: Engines-List: RE: Mag Drop Problem
From: "Jim Devany" <jdevany(at)olypen.com>
Subject: Engines-List:
I agree with the comments/suggestions by Scott Jackson. Lycoming says you
can not harm the engine with aggressive leaning even to the point of rough
running as long as the power level is well below 70-75%. A practice of
immediately leaning after start-up and keeping the mixture leaned during all
ground operations except during the run-up and just before full power for
takeoff is a good practice. In an engine that calls for 80/87 octane but is
being operated with 100LL, this is even more important in order to minimize
lead deposits. Never idling below 1,000 RPM, when possible, is also a big
help since the fuel additives that minimize lead deposits are not active at
combustion temperatures below that of 1,000-1,200 RPM.
Lycoming also recommends a shut-down procedure that is very helpful to purge
the combustion chamber (primarily, plug electrodes) of lead and carbon
deposits and therefore make the subsequent start-up much quicker and
smoother. The procedure is to let the engine temperatures stabilize (before
shut-down) by running at 1,200 RPM for a few minutes, followed by then
running at 1,800 RPM for 20-30 seconds ( during which is a good time to do a
quick mag check to assure that each mag is indeed grounding- for safety's
sake after shut-down). At the end of the 20-30 seconds, bring the throttle
back to 1,000-1,200 RPM and immediately put the mixture in idle cut-off.
This procedure leaves the plugs in optimum clean condition for the next
start-up.
Using these procedures, I have operated for many hundreds of hours without
either sticking valves or starts that take more than one to two blades after
hitting the starter regardless of the ambient or engine temperature, if
above
freezing. Hope this helps.
Jim McCulley: mcculleyja(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Devany" <jdevany(at)olypen.com> |
Thanks for your advice Scott. The engine is an older Continental E-225 and
it is balky starting in the winter.
I have cleaned the primers, replaced the intake pipe o rings and cleaned the
plugs again. I am going to look for different plugs as you suggested.
The exhaust pipes were black after a short run.
I have heard there is a lower octane fuel winding its way through
certification and marketing process, but it will be a while before it is
available.
Thanks for your concern, and I'll let you know how it turns out.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of
jayeandscott
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 10:34 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List:
Is it a Lycoming with a Carburetor? Had the same problem with a friend's
RV-4. Went away if the mixture was leaned aggressively immediately after
engine start and kept there until runway lineup. Cold engine causes fuel
vapor to condense on interior surfaces between metering device( carb) and
the cylinder interior. This condensation results in a leaner mixture than
the carb delivered so more is sent-via the mixture lever- to compensate for
it. The fuel vapor that has condensed onto the intake pipe walls flows
slowly towards the cylinder due to the airflow and eventually enters the
cylinder but as droplets too big to burn in time for complete combustion and
they settle on the nose of the sparkplug as well as the piston dome.
While carrying the mixture lever along with the throttle lever whenever any
power changes were made worked well, it was a pain and not always remembered
by the three teenage boys getting their licences on the aircraft. A
subsequent change of the lower plugs to a more foul-resistant model that
looks more like a lawnmower sparkplug than a massive-electrode type greatly
reduced the problem.
Some other thoughts-What colour is the inside of the exhaust pipe tip after
the short ground run? If there is a black soot evident that easily wipes
off, the mixture is too rich. Having to use the primer to keep it going is a
sure way to foul the plugs.
A rough start followed by smoothing out following thermal expansion could
indicate a stuck valve- the Lycomings are prone to this after 400-500 hrs
depending on mixture management.
There are a couple of other things that could be at fault but it's probably
the above.
Hope it helps-
Scott Jackson,
RV6 Finish, ex Pitts, ex 172,exT210.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Devany <jdevany(at)olypen.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 04, 2001 7:21 AM
Subject: Engines-List:
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Devany" <jdevany(at)olypen.com> |
Ned:
I'm going to go back to using TCP again and I think I will start using some
auto gas too. I have the STC but never used it.
Thanks for the advice.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-engines-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of John
Tarabocchia
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 7:58 AM
Subject: Re: Engines-List:
Ned Miller wrote:
>
> Jim,
> Sounds like lead fouling to me. 100LL has a LOT of lead in it. I have an
> old Cont. engine and run about 3/4 unleaded auto gas to 1/4 100LL or my
> plugs foul (That mixture (1/4 100LL) still has more lead than the old
> unleaded gasoline!) If I run pure 100LL I get a lot of lead fouling on
> the plugs and valves.
> Ned
>
>
You can try using TCP to keep the lead under control.
--
John W. Tarabocchia
601hds N6042T Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
Airframe 100% Complete...
Tearing Down 0-200...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "dave ford" <dford(at)michweb.net> |
I purchased an O360 that was in a fire from an individual and am nearing
rebuilding and reassembly. The data plate was overheated, fell off and
the individual who I purchased the engine from has not been able to find
it although he said it's somewhere in his garage. If he cannot locate
the original data plate what is my procedure to obtain a new data plate
for this engine?
Dave Ford
RV6
________________________________________________________________________________
Dave,
I am not certain as to whether this is 100% accurate. I was told that the
data plate is the most valuable item on the engine( I'm certain it is !) and
the manufacturer is the only party that will supply it. If you look on the
case(top) you should be able to find the serial no. for that engine, I
believe all the accessories will have the no's. listed somwhere in the engine
logs, which I hope the seller gave you along with the engine. I was told that
you should be able to get a new data plate provided you have the
documentation to prove that the engine was a certified engiine. The info that
comes along on this board is excellent so I'm sure someone will have the 100%
correct ansewr for you shortly.
Mark Kosco RV6.....getting close
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Aircraft Engines: Make/Model/Specs |
Listers,
This is a great web site with lots of info. You might want to check
it out at
http://www.webfoundry.com.au/auav/atwf/engines.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Engines: Make/Model/Specs |
Sorry Guys, I posted the wrong address below. This is the site:
http://www.halcyon.com/wanttaja/engines.html#Engines2
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Swiderski" <swiderskir(at)earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, March 16, 2001 7:47 PM
Subject: Engines-List: Aircraft Engines: Make/Model/Specs
>
> Listers,
>
> This is a great web site with lots of info. You might want to check
> it out at
>
> http://www.webfoundry.com.au/auav/atwf/engines.htm
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jones15183(at)aol.com |
You Need to call lycoming and tell them your delima, I had the same thing
once, and never got a resolution. But they cal tell you what you need to
know.. Billy Waters
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/25/01 |
Not sure if this the method to get a question on the mailing list, but if it
is.....
I've got an RV-6 with 180 HP Lycoming, and Hartsell CS prop. Yesterday,
I dropped into Jean, NV (south of Las Vegas) for some cheap fuel (twasn't so
cheap after all!) and then could NOT get the engine started after refueling!
I've got a stock Lycoming starter, and am highly considering making the
switch to an S-Tec lightweight, but discovered there are so many to choose
from. Now I'm wondering if my old starter can't be easily fixed?
Here's the problem: The starter spins right up, just fine. But... the
drive gear won't slide into the ring gear on the prop. So.. what's wrong?
It did that last year a few times, I thought it was a weak battery. I fly
regular now, keeping the battery fully charged, and have not had that problem
again until yesterday. I tried moving the prop an inch or two, thinking the
gears just weren't 'meshing' ... no help.
Evenutally, a very brave and good Samaritan flying a twin engine pusher
prop overgrown ultralight that looked like a cloth Breezy on steroids (I
think he called it a National Geographics Air Cam?) came to my rescue, and
HAND propped my RV-6 until it started (its never easy to start, even with a
good starter motor!). At least I made it home to Henderson, NV.
S-Tec starters seem to come is various versions. Right and left
something? And do I have to go out there and COUNT the teeth on my prop ring
gear??? Apparently these starters come in different versions depending on
how many teeth on the ring gear. Is there an easier way to identify my ring
gear teeth? Should that be stamped on the ring gear somewhere?
Is there a solenoid on my starter that I can replace or have replaced
easily for much cheaper than a new starter? Is that what slams the drive
into the ring gear? I know the starter gets plenty of volts and amps -- it
spins up like a Mazda! I thought centrifugal force was supposed to drive it
in on a spiral on the shaft?
I need an instant education on Lycoming starters!
Dan Eikleberry
Las Vegas
RV-6 -- flying (or.. at least I was until now..)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CessnaN150LL(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/25/01 |
you are right in your last sentence: it is the solenoid, which is a spool
responsible to get the starter ring gear on the ring gear of the flywheel.
Replacing the solenoid should be a piece of cake and MUCH cheaper then
replacing the starter motor.
/Hans
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronnie Brown" <rolandbrown(at)sprintmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 0 Msgs - 03/25/01 |
Dan:
The Bendix drive on the starter is likely shot. These starters are
typically only good for about 1000 hours (that is from replacing two
starters and one Bendix on our 172).
The Bendix is old technology and depends on the acceleration of the starter
motor to coax it out to the engaged position. If the starter is slow to
turn up, then the Bendix won't make it. Or if the Bendix is worn or sticky,
it doesn't matter how good the starter and battery are. It just won't go
out. Then the next problem with the Bendix is the fact that if it is
engaged and the engine won't start, it is next to impossible to get the
Bendix to retract.
The SkyTec comes in 6 flavors - 12, 24 volt, Permanent Magnet, or Wound, and
the two different ring teeth counts. Easiest thing is to just go count the
teeth.
We installed the SkyTec a couple of years ago and have been really pleased
with it. It is a high tech, solenoid engaging, geared, fast spinning
starter that requires less amps than the old Prestolite/Bendix style of
starter. AND the TBO is 2700 hours on the SkyTec.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/26/01 |
Thanks for the answers about the starters!
Since I posted the original message, I've removed the old starter from the
engine. It was a Delco-Remy, model 1109511.
How does Delco-Remy designate how many teeth on the flywheel ring gear?
I counted 6 times! I got all sorts of counts... but managed to count 151
teeth the last two attempts. Since Sky-Tec sells a 122 teeth model and a 149
teeth model, I can only guess I miscounted and my ring gear has 149 teeth.
OK...
I took the Delco-Remy starter apart -- nothing on the drive unit says Bendix
on it, but I guess you're supposed to know that. It was pretty gummy inside.
The drive unit had many of those spiral threads for the drive gear to slide
up the shaft -- but they were somewhat gummy, also. I turned the gear by
hand, and found that after I got it to extend into the start position, I
could NOT get it to retract! I noticed there was a sawtooth ractchet device
at the base of the shaft. I guess that's so the engine doesn't reverse drive
the starter motor until you can let go of the starter button or key.
By searching Chief Airparts web site, Wag -Aero, and Aircraft Spruce &
Specialty, I've learned a Sky-Tec should cost about $354. I need the 144
tooth, 12 volt model, but can only guess the "LS" model (with solenoid at 3
o'clock position as seen from the front) is the best model for me. I have
nothing hanging under the number 2 cylinder to interfere.
Its strange that the Chief and the Wag-Aero sites disagree on the PM and
LS -- which is better if you have an oil cooler under your number 2 cylinder!
One of them must have it wrong!
Wag Aero: Super Fly-Weight Starters for
Lycoming Engines by Sky-Tec, STC'd
Chief Aircraft:
http://chiefaircraft.com/Aircraft/ElectricalSystem/Starters.html
Thanks for all your help! I'd like a Sky-Tec, but the rebuilt Delco-Remy
will fit exactly, and is $311 from most sources. Plus, it will likely be
available locally, and I can have it back on my airplane by tomorrow
afternoon. The Sky-Tec would have to be ordered from California, at best.
Dan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mcculleyja(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Engines-List message posted by: DanJE(at)aol.com |
The Lycoming O-360 series 180 HP engines are basically all originally
equipped with bendix drive starters and the 149 tooth ring gear.
The problem you described could easily be due to need for fresh lube on the
forward end of the starter shaft/bendix drive. If it has not been kept
properly cleaned and lubed and has accumulated grit and dirt and the lube
dried and caked it will act as you described. This becomes more of a problem
as the ambient temperature drops into the near freezing range and the ship
has sat overnight, for example.
Your starter can be replaced with the 10 pound Skytec certified permanent
magnet starter which uses a conventional dual coil solenoid to mechanically
engage the pinion drive gear and then electrically energize the starter when
you activate the cockpit starter switch. These units are direct replacement
bolt-on exchange with no electrical wiring change needed. They are available
in the LM or LS model. The LM has the side attached solenoid on the left
lower side of the starter motor, and the LS on the lower right side. This
makes it possible to fit either based on the cowling clearances, etc. I
think the LM is most likely to be the one you would want, and in the 149
tooth version.
If you would like to stay with the existing original version and you
determine that it is necessary to replace the entire unit or that it requires
extensive overhaul, I have on hand an essentially new unit that was removed
from an engine with 125 hours from new and will sell it for a very reasonable
price if you want to contact me off list at my following e-mail address.
Jim McCulley
mcculleyja(at)aol.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Engines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/26/01 |
Sorry, there is no solenoid in the standard Lycoming starter, made by
Prestolite and others. The only solenoid is the starter contactor solenoid,
which just turns power on to the motor. If the motor spins the solenoid is
obviously doing its job.
you are right in your last sentence: it is the solenoid, which is a spool
responsible to get the starter ring gear on the ring gear of the flywheel.
Replacing the solenoid should be a piece of cake and MUCH cheaper then
replacing the starter motor.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Engines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/26/01 |
You can say that again. Vincent Bendix invested money with an inventor way
back in about 1915 and developed the very first electric starter. That
invention was the "Bendix drive" which last saw use in cars (by Ford, of
course)eons ago. It stopped being used for your very reason. That's what's
so easy about airplanes - to improve them just see what the automotive
engineers did, say 30 or 40 years ago, and copy it.
-----Original Message-----
The Bendix is old technology and depends on the acceleration of the starter
motor to coax it out to the engaged position. If the starter is slow to
turn up, then the Bendix won't make it. Or if the Bendix is worn or sticky,
it doesn't matter how good the starter and battery are. It just won't go
out.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Engines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/26/01 |
I have a problem that maybe someone could help with. I have a Lyc. IO-360
with about 900 hours SCMOH (4200 TT). The engine apparently never broke in
correctly as it has burned about a quart in 4 hours since the start. We
have tracked oil consumption and it has been gradually rising to about a
quart in 3 hours. Then in the last 10 or 20 hours it has suddnenly
increased to almost a quart per hour, maybe a quart in 2 hours). This gives
us cause for concern and we have stopped flying it until we find something
wrong. I pulled the upper plugs and they all look okay - not wet. I pulled
the valve covers and checked the valve guide clearances and they are all
okay - between .005 and .010. Some of the cylinders look wetter than
others, but I don't have a borescope to take a better look. There are some
oil leaks, but nothing any different that usual. The belly of the plane is
dry, no oil dripping from the breather and the interior of the exh. pipe is
dry. Anybody have any suggestions?
Another question - does anyone have an opinion as to which of the many
lightweight starters is the best?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Engines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/26/01 |
The starter has a "Bendix" drive that uses the inertia of the gear to drive
itself out the spiral and engage the ring gear. I find that all starters
eventually suffer the same fate as you experienced - especially in humid
areas. If you liberally spray the shaft occasionally with WD-40 (not a very
good lube, but it does penetrate) it will usually work. In an emergency
take a screw driver and manually rotate the gear backwards, which will drive
it into engagement. Only takes a couple of seconds with some practice - if
the gear is accessible with the cowling on. Once the gear is out it locks
into position until the engine starts. I have never seen a drive unit
actually fail - only stick from corrosion or lack of lube. If you want to
replace the drive unit (non-certificated, right?) just take the starter to
any automotive electric shop and they can put on a drive gear. It is a
standard unit used by a lot of diesel starters. Cost will be maybe $20.
How do I know? Why do you ask?
Here's the problem: The starter spins right up, just fine. But... the
drive gear won't slide into the ring gear on the prop. So.. what's wrong?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Border <soarrich(at)netlabs.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/27/01 |
Engines-List Digest Server wrote:
>
> I counted 6 times! I got all sorts of counts... but managed to count 151
> teeth the last two attempts. Since Sky-Tec sells a 122 teeth model and a 149
> teeth model, I can only guess I miscounted and my ring gear has 149 teeth.
> OK...
This may be of interest to you.
Rich B
>
> ..........By searching Chief Airparts web site, Wag -Aero, and Aircraft Spruce
&
> Specialty, I've learned a Sky-Tec should cost about $354. I need the 144
> tooth, 12 volt model, but can only guess the "LS" model (with solenoid at 3
> o'clock position as seen from the front) is the best model for me. I have
> nothing hanging under the number 2 cylinder to interfere.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Engines-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 03/27/01 |
The original Bendix patent expired long ago and many people, including
Delco, manufactured the so-called "Bendix" drive. The "gummy" residue you
describe is almost for sure the problem and you could clean it off, lube it
with light oil and it will work like new again. One problem with the Bendix
drive is that when the engine fires it might "outrun" the starter,
disengaging the gear, and once it is disengaged with the starter already
turning it won't re-engage, creating much consternation. Anyone that has an
old farm tractor knows what I mean. The ratchet you describe, used on
airplanes but not old farm tractors, prevents this by locking the gear out
until the starter reaches sufficient speed for centrifugal force to
disengage the ratchet.
The solenoid-operated starters avoid all this by holding the gear in
engagement until the operator decides to let it go.
Just as a question for the listers: Any opinions out there about which is
the best lightweight starter to buy? I will soon buy one for my IO-360A1A.
Lamar says I need an "offset" model, but I don't see why.
It was pretty gummy inside.
The drive unit had many of those spiral threads for the drive gear to slide
up the shaft -- but they were somewhat gummy, also. I turned the gear by
hand, and found that after I got it to extend into the start position, I
could NOT get it to retract! I noticed there was a sawtooth ractchet
device
at the base of the shaft. I guess that's so the engine doesn't reverse
drive
the starter motor until you can let go of the starter button or key.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ted Strange <tedstrange(at)home.com> |
My mechanic told me to always lubricate this gear with graphite powder
to eliminate sticking.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wesley & Susan Knettle <wsknettl(at)centurytel.net> |
From: DanJE(at)aol.com
Subject: Engines-List: Re: Engines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 03/26/01
Thanks for the answers about the starters!
Since I posted the original message, I've removed the old starter from
the
engine. It was a Delco-Remy, model 1109511.
How does Delco-Remy designate how many teeth on the flywheel ring gear?
I counted 6 times! I got all sorts of counts... but managed to count
151
teeth the last two attempts. Since Sky-Tec sells a 122 teeth model and
a 149
teeth model, I can only guess I miscounted and my ring gear has 149
teeth.
OK...
I took the Delco-Remy starter apart -- nothing on the drive unit says
Bendix
on it, but I guess you're supposed to know that. It was pretty gummy
inside.
The drive unit had many of those spiral threads for the drive gear to
slide
up the shaft -- but they were somewhat gummy, also. I turned the gear
by
hand, and found that after I got it to extend into the start position, I
could NOT get it to retract! I noticed there was a sawtooth ractchet
device
at the base of the shaft. I guess that's so the engine doesn't reverse
drive
the starter motor until you can let go of the starter button or key.
These drives are available aftermarket for $75 to $100. I've usually
found that a dissassembly, cleaning and silicon spray lube makes them
good as new. Find an A&P that trys fixing first and replacing parts
second. The only oil to be used near these drives is at the drive end
bushing (on the nose of the starter) where you place a drop or two of
engine oil. There are only two ways to reset (retract) the drive, either
dissassemble and retract manually or have the engine start and
centrifgully retract it.
Wes K
IA in Wisconsin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wesley & Susan Knettle <wsknettl(at)centurytel.net> |
I've noticed several references to using oil for lube on the digest.
That is wrong. The manufacturer's only recommended lube is a light coat
of silicon spray on assembly only. Petroleum products will only provide
temporary relief from the sticking and they will provide the vehicle for
dirt and etc. to cause the sticking to get worse. The standard routine
is: Remove, dissassemble, clean, lube with silicon spray, reassemble and
leave it alone.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/10/01 |
I've noticed several references to using oil for lube on the digest.
That is wrong. The manufacturer's only recommended lube is a light coat
of silicon spray on assembly only. Petroleum products will only provide
temporary relief from the sticking and they will provide the vehicle for
dirt and etc. to cause the sticking to get worse. The standard routine
is: Remove, dissassemble, clean, lube with silicon spray, reassemble and
leave it alone.
Easy for you to say.. "disassemble, clean and lube," but that is a LOT of
work. It seems to me that a lot of people give it a little squirt of WD-40
every 6 months or a year as a preventative and that sounds a LOT easier.
And my experience is that it works. I have had several experiences with
sticky Bendix drives and have never had to take one apart yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/09/01 |
second. The only oil to be used near these drives is at the drive end
bushing (on the nose of the starter) where you place a drop or two of
engine oil. There are only two ways to reset (retract) the drive, either
dissassemble and retract manually or have the engine start and
centrifgully retract it.
Wes K
IA in Wisconsin
You can also just momentarily connect a battery to the starter and it will
spin up enough to disengage. It will also try to flip itself off your
bench. How do I know?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "d. wayne stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/10/01 |
Read the fine print on WD-40. Its not a lubricant or really intended to be
one. It flashes off way to quickly
and leaves almost nothing behind--in fact a lot of mechanics ues it as an
arisol starter fluid w stiles
From: "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net>
Subject: Engines-List: RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/10/01
Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 06:26:12 -0700
I've noticed several references to using oil for lube on the digest.
That is wrong. The manufacturer's only recommended lube is a light coat
of silicon spray on assembly only. Petroleum products will only provide
temporary relief from the sticking and they will provide the vehicle for
dirt and etc. to cause the sticking to get worse. The standard routine
is: Remove, dissassemble, clean, lube with silicon spray, reassemble and
leave it alone.
Easy for you to say.. "disassemble, clean and lube," but that is a LOT of
work. It seems to me that a lot of people give it a little squirt of WD-40
every 6 months or a year as a preventative and that sounds a LOT easier.
And my experience is that it works. I have had several experiences with
sticky Bendix drives and have never had to take one apart yet.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Dortch" <smallfish(at)enid.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/10/01 |
What do you suggest using. I have heard good things about something called
LPS. A lot of the farmers around here use it at the end of the season to
preserve their farm equipment for next year.
Steve D
straight 35
N4512V
----- Original Message -----
From: d. wayne stiles <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2001 3:37 AM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/10/01
>
> Read the fine print on WD-40. Its not a lubricant or really intended to
be
> one. It flashes off way to quickly
> and leaves almost nothing behind--in fact a lot of mechanics ues it as an
> arisol starter fluid w stiles
>
> From: "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net>
> To:
> Subject: Engines-List: RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/10/01
> Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 06:26:12 -0700
>
>
>
>
> I've noticed several references to using oil for lube on the digest.
> That is wrong. The manufacturer's only recommended lube is a light coat
> of silicon spray on assembly only. Petroleum products will only provide
> temporary relief from the sticking and they will provide the vehicle for
> dirt and etc. to cause the sticking to get worse. The standard routine
> is: Remove, dissassemble, clean, lube with silicon spray, reassemble and
> leave it alone.
>
>
> Easy for you to say.. "disassemble, clean and lube," but that is a LOT of
> work. It seems to me that a lot of people give it a little squirt of
WD-40
> every 6 months or a year as a preventative and that sounds a LOT easier.
> And my experience is that it works. I have had several experiences with
> sticky Bendix drives and have never had to take one apart yet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Wesley & Susan Knettle <wsknettl(at)centurytel.net> |
LPS-1 is an oilless lubricant spray. Can be used in the same places you
would
use teflon or graphite spray.
LPS-2 is a standard thin oil lube. (I use this all the time for general
oil requirements)
LPS-3 is a moisture displacing corrosion preventative. This leaves a
sticky
residue. I use this in bolt hole, on bolt shanks, and
anywhere I want to coat for
corrosion protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "d. wayne stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/10/01 |
I came across a product a couple of years ago and ordered a quartsize bottle
via e-mail. I personally think it is absolutely super, used it to put a
protective film on metal objects that I stored 2 years ago, its still
working, lube film is intact, hasn't turned gummy etc. I'm away from home
and my workshop but I think it's called CorrosionX it comes in several
grades including a marine heavy duty which is what I got. You might find it
in a Google search on the web or at a good marine supply shop. The Silicon
sprays are probably better in a dusty environment since they leave a dry
film which won't collect dust and grit. Powdered graphite in the spray cans
for lock lubricant works well, but it can be dirty. when I get back in
off the road I'll try to find the CorrosionX info and forward it to you
Wayne
From: "Steven Dortch" <smallfish(at)enid.com>
Subject: Re: Engines-List: RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/10/01
Date: Fri, 13 Apr 2001 21:19:27 -0500
What do you suggest using. I have heard good things about something called
LPS. A lot of the farmers around here use it at the end of the season to
preserve their farm equipment for next year.
Steve D
straight 35
N4512V
----- Original Message -----
From: d. wayne stiles <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2001 3:37 AM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/10/01
>
> Read the fine print on WD-40. Its not a lubricant or really intended to
be
> one. It flashes off way to quickly
> and leaves almost nothing behind--in fact a lot of mechanics ues it as an
> arisol starter fluid w stiles
>
> From: "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net>
> To:
> Subject: Engines-List: RE: Engines-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 04/10/01
> Date: Wed, 11 Apr 2001 06:26:12 -0700
>
>
>
>
>
> I've noticed several references to using oil for lube on the digest.
> That is wrong. The manufacturer's only recommended lube is a light coat
> of silicon spray on assembly only. Petroleum products will only provide
> temporary relief from the sticking and they will provide the vehicle for
> dirt and etc. to cause the sticking to get worse. The standard routine
> is: Remove, dissassemble, clean, lube with silicon spray, reassemble and
> leave it alone.
>
>
> Easy for you to say.. "disassemble, clean and lube," but that is a LOT of
> work. It seems to me that a lot of people give it a little squirt of
WD-40
> every 6 months or a year as a preventative and that sounds a LOT easier.
> And my experience is that it works. I have had several experiences with
> sticky Bendix drives and have never had to take one apart yet.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "d. wayne stiles" <dwstiles(at)hotmail.com> |
It IS CorrosionX after all, at least that part of my memory hasn't failed.
Their website is Duh! www.CorrosionX.com (don't know if it's case sensative
or not--but them's the letters. I'm very impressed with them for a wet film
long term lube. w stiles
From: Wesley & Susan Knettle <wsknettl(at)centurytel.net>
Subject: Engines-List: LPS
Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 07:26:52 -0500
LPS-1 is an oilless lubricant spray. Can be used in the same places you
would
use teflon or graphite spray.
LPS-2 is a standard thin oil lube. (I use this all the time for general
oil requirements)
LPS-3 is a moisture displacing corrosion preventative. This leaves a
sticky
residue. I use this in bolt hole, on bolt shanks, and
anywhere I want to coat for
corrosion protection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 04/14/01 |
W-D means WaterDisplacement...not a lube ;-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Newsted" <fcs(at)jlc.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Engines-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 04/14/01 |
You really want to avoid using any spray containing graphite on a
starter gear since it will inevitably work its way into the motor. This is
why whoever it was, suggested silicone spray; it's non-conductive.
Stop by any auto parts store and look for silicone spray. Any brand
will do, and it has served me well through harsh New England winters
when the Lyco won't mojo... Can we change the subject now?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerryb <ulflyer(at)airmail.net> |
| Subject: | Reduction Drive on 2 Cylinder (Half) VW |
Any one out there have any experience using a reduction drive on a half VW?
Can it be done what it hold up?
I been told there's a problem with sharp power pulses that makes this
solution unreliable - will tear up belt or gear box redrives
Please comment if you got experience with this configuration.
Thanks,
Jerry b
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Reduction Drive on 2 Cylinder (Half) VW |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
> Any one out there have any experience using a reduction drive on a half VW?
The short answer is no, I don't have any experience with redrives on a half
VW. But why not just direct drive a full VW if you want more power? It's
not going to weigh much more than a half VW with a redrive, is it?
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re:silicone spray |
Be careful. All silicone sprays are not the same. Some contain petroleum
distillates and/or mineral oil, which you want to avoid, because they are oil
based. Most notable is one made by Solder Seal/Gunk, part no. M9-14. They
also make one that is environmentally responsible, part no. AM9-14. I don't
know the contents of that one because I never carried it. The silicone spray
made by CRC doesn't have any petroleum products.
Steve
Springfield Auto Parts Co., Inc.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Alternative Engines |
I am new to the engines-list and was wondering if there were any alternative
(auto) engine interest on the list. I fly a Mazda Rotary Powered RV-6A and
just checking to see if anyone of similar interest.
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
Matthews, NC
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
"Best Auto Engine" Sun & Fun 2001
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Terry Watson" <tcwatson(at)seanet.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
Ed,
Like I expect a lot of others, I am very interested in alternative engines,
most especially the Mazda rotary. I have followed your posts to the RV list
since before you had it flying, and very much appreciate your information.
I am more interested in a firewall forward package, or close to it, than
solving my own problems. Powersport's package looks very interesting, but
the price seems high and their website doesn't seem to have been updated
since last October. I live within an hour's drive of Atkins Rotary at Thun
Field near Tacoma, WA, but have yet to talk to him, although I have followed
his website. I have also read one of Tracy Crook's books.
I put 175,000 road miles on a Maxda RX-7, so I am not unfamiliar with the
engines. I found it very reliable. My RV-8A fuselage is about ready to
come out of the jig, so I need to make up my mind before too long. You
comments and suggestions would be very welcome.
Terry
Seattle
>
> I am new to the engines-list and was wondering if there were any
alternative
> (auto) engine interest on the list. I fly a Mazda Rotary Powered RV-6A
and
> just checking to see if anyone of similar interest.
>
> Best Regards
>
> Ed Anderson
> Matthews, NC
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> "Best Auto Engine" Sun & Fun 2001
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
I looked at your airplane at the show , I really liked it. I am just too
scared to jump into that kind of experiment. Do you have the cooling problem
fixed? If I were going to install an auto engine I would rather have the
three rotor engine in my airplane, but I don't know how to reinforce the
firewall, or if I even need to in the first place. I am building an RV-6. I
sent off for the Atkins information and was not convinced that he had his
plane working correctly.. STILL CONFUSED......
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
Hi Ed and congrats on your "Best Auto Engine" award. I'm seriously
interested in the Powersport Rotary FWF kit but I think the "Complete" price
and the fact that they don't have engine mounts for the -6 might be a
limitation.
I've talked with them at both OSH and the RV Forum last year at Red Wing,
MN. I'll be seeing them again this weekend at Red Wing again.
Do you have any comments on their kit based on what you've seen? The
advertise 215 hp but I have yet to see any hard performance number in
the -6a.
I'd really be interested in the Delta Hawk Diesel as well but I don't know
where they are in their development cycle either. Their web site doesn't
seem to get updated very often.
Mike Nellis
Stinson 108-2 N9666K
RV-6 N699BM (reserved)N
Plainfield, IL (LOT)
Building Flaps
http://bmnellis.com
>
> I am new to the engines-list and was wondering if there were any
alternative
> (auto) engine interest on the list. I fly a Mazda Rotary Powered RV-6A
and
> just checking to see if anyone of similar interest.
>
> Best Regards
>
> Ed Anderson
> Matthews, NC
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> "Best Auto Engine" Sun & Fun 2001
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
Hi Terry,
Yes, Powersport has a very nice package, but in my opinion a little
pricy for the general market. I belong to two rotary engine list dealing
with rotary engine in aircraft. The main engine used is the two rotor 13B
engine ala the RX-7. A few folks are acquiring three rotor 20B engines to
put in Velocities and a few in RV-8s. The 13B will give between 160-180 HP
depending on induction and exhaust set up. With a turbo a 13B can give you
up to 230HP, but I would only use the boost on takeoff and climb. The 20B
can give you 250-300 hp but of course weights a bit more.
I think in the next year or two we will have some products that will make
such an installation much easier. I think the RV series would be the first
to benefit simply due to the potential market they represent. We have
contact with several Austrialians who apparently can produce things we need
considerably cheaper than we could get them made here. We are working on
standard motor mounts, variable pitch props, intake manifolds, etc. We have
gear boxes and all the engine electronics needed at this time.
Tracy Crooks book is excellent and I know Dave Atkins has provided engins
for aircraft, just don't know enough about what he offers. But, since he
flys behind one, I have to assume that it is a quality product. However,
again you will pay for it. I am fairly certain he is much less expensive
than Powersport, but don't know his total package.
But, honestly, we do not have a FWF package source (other than
powersport) at this time. I expect we will have 15 RVs (or more) flying
with rotary engins by the end of 2002. As more folks get involved, I expect
some enterprising individual will start offering things like motor mounts
for RVs, perhaps someone else will offer radiators etc. Right now we have
all sort of rolled our own and we are trying to determine which of our ideas
are the optimum ones. Then we can start pulling together a "standard"
configuration. Once we had a standard configuration so that each one is not
a one-off, then I think we will get sufficient interest of people to build
products for it.
Now, having said no realistic FWF packages at the moment, there are a
large number of people that you can call upon to help you through the
process. Believe me, that can help a great deal - simply knowing what does
not work, will eliminate a lot of redos that some of us early ones had to
endure.
Not trying to talk you into a rotary engine, just letting you know that
if you are so inclinded there are several list that people will answer your
questions and offere suggestions.
Hope this helps
Ed Anderson
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Alternative Engines
>
> Ed,
>
> Like I expect a lot of others, I am very interested in alternative
engines,
> most especially the Mazda rotary. I have followed your posts to the RV
list
> since before you had it flying, and very much appreciate your information.
>
> I am more interested in a firewall forward package, or close to it, than
> solving my own problems. Powersport's package looks very interesting, but
> the price seems high and their website doesn't seem to have been updated
> since last October. I live within an hour's drive of Atkins Rotary at
Thun
> Field near Tacoma, WA, but have yet to talk to him, although I have
followed
> his website. I have also read one of Tracy Crook's books.
>
> I put 175,000 road miles on a Maxda RX-7, so I am not unfamiliar with the
> engines. I found it very reliable. My RV-8A fuselage is about ready to
> come out of the jig, so I need to make up my mind before too long. You
> comments and suggestions would be very welcome.
>
> Terry
> Seattle
>
>
>
> >
> > I am new to the engines-list and was wondering if there were any
> alternative
> > (auto) engine interest on the list. I fly a Mazda Rotary Powered RV-6A
> and
> > just checking to see if anyone of similar interest.
> >
> > Best Regards
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> > Matthews, NC
> > Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > "Best Auto Engine" Sun & Fun 2001
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Ed:
I'm interested in any reasonable alternative to a Lycoming, for my RV-6
project. The rotary seem to offer the most potential in the 150-180 hp
range, at the moment. I like the light weight, the redundant spark plugs,
the ability to run without coolant, the smoothness, and the proven
reliability (in automotive and racing applications).
I'm also interested in the various purpose-designed alternatives, such as
the Jabiru and DeltaHawke.
For pragmatic reasons (i.e. I want to get it built as quickly as I can), a
Lycoming is still my top choice in the short term. But in the long term I'm
very interested in other engines. And some alternatives, notably the
Jabiru, are starting to look very good even in the short term.
Tedd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | Alternative Engines |
-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry
>
> Ed:
>
> I'm interested in any reasonable alternative to a Lycoming, for my RV-6
> project. The rotary seem to offer the most potential in the 150-180 hp
> range, at the moment. I like the light weight, the redundant spark plugs,
> the ability to run without coolant, the smoothness, and the proven
> reliability (in automotive and racing applications).
>
> I'm also interested in the various purpose-designed alternatives, such as
> the Jabiru and DeltaHawke.
>
> For pragmatic reasons (i.e. I want to get it built as quickly as I can), a
> Lycoming is still my top choice in the short term. But in the long term
I'm
> very interested in other engines. And some alternatives, notably the
> Jabiru, are starting to look very good even in the short term.
>
> Tedd
Tedd,
You will find that if you install a conventional aircraft engine, it is
not likely that after spending that money and installing it,
you will get around to replacing it with something better.
(or different)
Better to take the time to do it once, and not have to think
about it. Will not be long before the rotary movement will
grow exponentially. After all, would you buy a new car
powered by a Lycoming? on the other hand, demand for
the rotary has caused the factory to build them again.
nuff said........
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <rich(at)carol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
Hi Ed, it's Rich. Don't know if you remember me. Me & a friend fly to
your airport to check out your rotary installation.
I've decided on a Subaru for my CH801. I picked one up from a salvage
yard in NC. Only $900 for an EG33, 230 hp, 47k miles on it, delivered.
Very clean. When they get the cars, they take out all the good stuff &
keep them inside a hug building. This keeps them nice & clean & dry.
I haven't worked on it yet. Still building the plane.
How's the rotary treating you?
Rich
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>
> I am new to the engines-list and was wondering if there were any alternative
> (auto) engine interest on the list. I fly a Mazda Rotary Powered RV-6A and
> just checking to see if anyone of similar interest.
>
> Best Regards
>
> Ed Anderson
> Matthews, NC
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> "Best Auto Engine" Sun & Fun 2001
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
----- Original Message -----
From: <MLSRV6(at)aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 8:07 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Alternative Engines
>
> I looked at your airplane at the show , I really liked it. I am just too
> scared to jump into that kind of experiment. Do you have the cooling
problem
> fixed? If I were going to install an auto engine I would rather have the
> three rotor engine in my airplane, but I don't know how to reinforce the
> firewall, or if I even need to in the first place. I am building an RV-6.
I
> sent off for the Atkins information and was not convinced that he had his
> plane working correctly.. STILL CONFUSED......
>
An auto conversion is not something to be undertaken lightly, a lot of work
is involved. Fortunately we are slowly compiling a "body of Knowledge" of
what seems to work and what does not. I think you would find the three
rotor a bit much for the RV-6. Installation weight would probably be over
400 lbs (just a guess on my part). A few folks are installing the three
rotor in the RV-8, but most find the two rotor more than adequate for the
RV-4, RV-6.
Here are some sources of additional information, if you are interested
My project hosted on Don Mack's webpage
http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html
CONTACT! magazine issues 49,50,and 51 contain a three part series I wrote
about my project. They may have back issues. You can contact them at:
http://www.nonprofitnet.com/contact/
Tracy Crook's Web page of products he designed and sells for rotary engine
installation in aircraft
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/
Here are two web sites with associated e mail list which you can pose your
questions.
The Fly Rotary Web page of Rotary fliers and their projects
http://www.members.home.net/flyrotary/
The RotaryEngine Web page of Paul Lamar
http://home.earthlink.net/~rotaryeng/ACRE.html
Hope this helps
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Nellis" <mnellis(at)peoplepc.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 8:18 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Alternative Engines
>
> Hi Ed and congrats on your "Best Auto Engine" award. I'm seriously
> interested in the Powersport Rotary FWF kit but I think the "Complete"
price
> and the fact that they don't have engine mounts for the -6 might be a
> limitation.
>
> I've talked with them at both OSH and the RV Forum last year at Red Wing,
> MN. I'll be seeing them again this weekend at Red Wing again.
>
> Do you have any comments on their kit based on what you've seen? The
> advertise 215 hp but I have yet to see any hard performance number in
> the -6a.
>
> I'd really be interested in the Delta Hawk Diesel as well but I don't know
> where they are in their development cycle either. Their web site doesn't
> seem to get updated very often.
>
> Mike Nellis
> Stinson 108-2 N9666K
> RV-6 N699BM (reserved)N
> Plainfield, IL (LOT)
> Building Flaps
> http://bmnellis.com
> >
>
Hi Mike,
I think Powersports FWF installation is an excellent engineering job. I
do not believe they have any problem producing 215Hp using Peripheral ports
and if I recall correctly they indicated around 230 mph TAS in their
testing. My understanding is that they eventually intend to offer a
complete FWF including motor mounts.
I wished that Powersport could have produced a package in the $15,000
range. I think they could sell a larger number in that price range. The
Delta Hawk also looks like a viable choice, but like you say - when and at
what cost?
Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tedd McHenry" <tedd(at)vansairforce.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2001 10:10 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Alternative Engines
>
> Ed:
>
> I'm interested in any reasonable alternative to a Lycoming, for my RV-6
> project. The rotary seem to offer the most potential in the 150-180 hp
> range, at the moment. I like the light weight, the redundant spark plugs,
> the ability to run without coolant, the smoothness, and the proven
> reliability (in automotive and racing applications).
>
> I'm also interested in the various purpose-designed alternatives, such as
> the Jabiru and DeltaHawke.
>
> For pragmatic reasons (i.e. I want to get it built as quickly as I can), a
> Lycoming is still my top choice in the short term. But in the long term
I'm
> very interested in other engines. And some alternatives, notably the
> Jabiru, are starting to look very good even in the short term.
>
> Tedd
>
Tedd,
My bet is once you have your RV flying with a Lycoming in it, you will
be very hesitant to take it down and install an auto conversion. I know of
only one person who has done that - just got fed up with the costly ADs on
the Lycomings. However, I advise anyone whose primary enjoyment is flying -
to go with a Lycoming. On the other hand, if you truly like tinkering,
solving frustrating challenges, and are a "Gear head" then the alternative
engine route may be for you.
I think over the next five years or so we will see three classes of auto
engines. I think the Subaru for 150HP or less, the Rotary for 160-200HP
(maybe 230 with turbocharger) and American Iron V-6s, V-8s for over 240HP.
Each class has its advantages and disadvantages. I personally think the
rotary provides an idea power/weight ratio for the RV series. However, that
is not to say that a large Subaru or American V-6 would not work.
These are exciting times as more proven installations are coming on line
and attending fly ins. Instead of the one or two in the past, I predict we
see an increasing number of auto powered RVs and as the number grows I
believe enterprising individuals will start to offer FWF components such as
motor mounts, radiators, gearboxes, etc that will make it even easier to do.
My 0.02 worth on the topic.
Ed
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net> |
| Subject: | RE: Engines-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 04/18/01 |
I have had little experience with Rotary engines in aircraft, but have
several of my engine controllers in race cars. I am in the process of
building a V-8 powered aircraft and I looked into the rotary possibility -
In my opinion, the engine is very reliable and one of the few that can be
run at max power with good reliability. However, the high fuel consumption
makes for a heavy installation and that is the primary problem. The only
practical engines might be the standard Mazda packages with iron end and
center housings and iron rotors. Also, because of the weight it is not
practical to run one direct drive so you have the added cost, weight and
reliability factor of the PRSRU. For 150 hp I like the Subaru better. At
200 hp I like the Chevy V-6 better.
Just my 2 cents worth.
-----Original Message-----
____
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Engines-List: Alternative Engines
I am new to the engines-list and was wondering if there were any alternative
(auto) engine interest on the list. I fly a Mazda Rotary Powered RV-6A and
just checking to see if anyone of similar interest.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
| From: | Tedd McHenry <tedd(at)vansairforce.org> |
Archie:
> Tedd,
> You will find that if you install a conventional aircraft engine, it is
> not likely that after spending that money and installing it,
> you will get around to replacing it with something better.
I've certainly considered that. But the RV-6 I'm building now is almost
certainly not the last airplane I'll build.
I have a self-imposed deadline for this project and, with all the delays
getting started, it's looking shaky already, even though it's a little way
off yet. If my progress is good and I find I have a year or so in hand to
do the engine installation, I might go with a rotary. I'd love to
participate in the development that's going on these days. Otherwise, I
will probably go with a more pragmatic choice (i.e. Lycoming) for this
project.
Tedd
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "James Oberst" <joberst(at)columbus.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Magneto wiring question |
I have Slick mags on my O-360, and I don't understand how the P-lead wiring
is physically done. My mags each have a hex metal pad, with a threaded stud
sticking up from its center. There seems to be a circular groove worn into
the hex pad.
I'm guessing that there's some kind of connector that connects the P-lead to
the stud, and the P-lead shield to the hex pad that would serve as the local
ground - but I'm just guessing. Can anyone describe to me what the
connection arrangement is supposed to be. And if I need some special
connector, what is it called and where can I buy it.
Thanks.
Jim Oberst
Columbus Ohio
Building Glasair Super II FT
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | BERNDSENCO(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Rotary engines & Jabiru |
I've been a big fan of the rotary engine ever since I bought my first RX-7 in
1979. Drove it hard every day, 8000 rpm, and put 150,000 miles on it. Was
still running like new when I sold it. I haven't really kept up with the
rotary movement in aircraft but am still very interested.
What is the installed weight for the current "packages" that are being used?
Engine, redrive, exhaust, and all accessories. And what kind of price are
you looking at for the complete package?
I'm very excited about the new Jabiru 8 cylinder that is coming out. 180 HP
@ 2800 rpm, 200 HP @ 3000, and only 231 lbs installed weight complete with
all accessories. Current price is $13,900.
I'm currently building a Jabiru kit airplane with the Jabiru 3300 120 HP 6
cylinder. Can't wait to fire it up!
Jon Berndsen
Atlanta, GA
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
Hi Rich,
Yes, I recall now you mention the CH801. Well the EG33 certainly should
provide all the power you need even loafing. The rotary is doing fine, put
over 2000 miles on it over the past month, so I think things are getting
settled down.
I would make certain that you squirt a few squirts of oil in each
cylinder and turn it over ever week or so just to keep cylinder walls from
rusting.
When do you estimate you will be far enough along to put the engine on
the airframe?
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich" <rich(at)carol.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 7:54 AM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Alternative Engines
>
> Hi Ed, it's Rich. Don't know if you remember me. Me & a friend fly to
> your airport to check out your rotary installation.
>
> I've decided on a Subaru for my CH801. I picked one up from a salvage
> yard in NC. Only $900 for an EG33, 230 hp, 47k miles on it, delivered.
> Very clean. When they get the cars, they take out all the good stuff &
> keep them inside a hug building. This keeps them nice & clean & dry.
>
> I haven't worked on it yet. Still building the plane.
>
> How's the rotary treating you?
>
> Rich
>
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
> >
> >
> > I am new to the engines-list and was wondering if there were any
alternative
> > (auto) engine interest on the list. I fly a Mazda Rotary Powered RV-6A
and
> > just checking to see if anyone of similar interest.
> >
> > Best Regards
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> > Matthews, NC
> > Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > "Best Auto Engine" Sun & Fun 2001
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: Engines-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 04/18/01 |
Hi Gary,
Certainly more than one way to skin a cat. Regarding fuel consumption
(at least at the rpms used in aircraft), we find the 2 rotor 13B gets
slightly better fuel consumption than the 180 Lycoming. One of the reasons
is that you can not hurt the Naturally Aspired rotary by over leaning it. I
can lean it down to 4.5 GPH without any worry about hurting it. My fuel
burn ranges from 8 gph at cruise to 14.5 gph (max throttle on take off).
Price wise, the iron housings are the only viable choice right now. Racing
Beat does produce a couple of the iron side housings in aluminum, but just
one cost almost enough to overhual an engine {:>).
Installation weighs have range from 290 lbs to 330 lbs, so again in the
weigh range of a Lycoming 320 or 360. The two rotor tops out at around
180-190 HP without a turbo (can get around 250HP with the turbo but with the
added complexity and questions about reliability). The three rotor is being
installed in RV-8s by several people and is rated between 250-300HP without
turbo.
The rpm does make it necessary to use a redrive to lower speed for prop.
The planetary gear models are the lightest weight (around 35-40 lbs) and
most popular models. Only one individual is use a rotor in direct drive on
a ducted fan and had hit around 140 knots in a Long EZ.
I think its great that different folks are trying different engines so
that there will hopefully be a number of suitable alternatives for
homebuilders in the future. As I have stated, my views is for 150HP or
lower I favor the Subaru, for 150-190 HP I favor the rotary and for above
200 HP American iron such as the Chevy V-6 or V-8. I think these will
become the dominate alternative engines in the future if they have not
already done so.
At the moment, to the best of my knowledge there are 8 Rv aircraft flying
with Rotary engines and a larger number in the project building stage.
So what airframe are you thinking about putting the Chevy V-6 in? I presume
one of the RV series?
Best Regards
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Casey" <glcasey(at)gte.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 9:08 AM
Subject: Engines-List: RE: Engines-List Digest: 7 Msgs - 04/18/01
>
> I have had little experience with Rotary engines in aircraft, but have
> several of my engine controllers in race cars. I am in the process of
> building a V-8 powered aircraft and I looked into the rotary possibility -
> In my opinion, the engine is very reliable and one of the few that can be
> run at max power with good reliability. However, the high fuel
consumption
> makes for a heavy installation and that is the primary problem. The only
> practical engines might be the standard Mazda packages with iron end and
> center housings and iron rotors. Also, because of the weight it is not
> practical to run one direct drive so you have the added cost, weight and
> reliability factor of the PRSRU. For 150 hp I like the Subaru better. At
> 200 hp I like the Chevy V-6 better.
> Just my 2 cents worth.
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> ____
> From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
> Subject: Engines-List: Alternative Engines
>
>
>
> I am new to the engines-list and was wondering if there were any
alternative
> (auto) engine interest on the list. I fly a Mazda Rotary Powered RV-6A
and
> just checking to see if anyone of similar interest.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotary engines & Jabiru |
Hi Jon,
The current packages that I am familiar with range in weight from 290
lbs to 330 lbs all up. Considerable difference in the approaches and
priorities that different builders have taken. Price is really hard to nail
down, but probably the cheapest would be around $6000, the nominal around
$8000 and the high side around $10,000. But again this depends a great deal
on what deals you get, how good a scrounger your are and how many redos you
have to do.
The 180 HP Jabiru 8 for $13,000 sounds almost too good to be true. Are they
delivering yet and does that include all the needed accessories? Boy, that
should give Lycoming a run for their money among homebuilders. Glad to hear
about it.
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: <BERNDSENCO(at)aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 11:16 AM
Subject: Engines-List: Rotary engines & Jabiru
>
> I've been a big fan of the rotary engine ever since I bought my first RX-7
in
> 1979. Drove it hard every day, 8000 rpm, and put 150,000 miles on it.
Was
> still running like new when I sold it. I haven't really kept up with the
> rotary movement in aircraft but am still very interested.
> What is the installed weight for the current "packages" that are being
used?
> Engine, redrive, exhaust, and all accessories. And what kind of price are
> you looking at for the complete package?
> I'm very excited about the new Jabiru 8 cylinder that is coming out. 180
HP
> @ 2800 rpm, 200 HP @ 3000, and only 231 lbs installed weight complete with
> all accessories. Current price is $13,900.
> I'm currently building a Jabiru kit airplane with the Jabiru 3300 120 HP 6
> cylinder. Can't wait to fire it up!
>
> Jon Berndsen
> Atlanta, GA
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John W. Tarabocchia" <zodiac.builder(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
Ed Anderson wrote on 4/18/01 5:55 pm:
>--> Engines-List message
>posted by: "Ed Anderson"
>>
>
>I am new to the engines-list
>and was wondering if there
>were any alternative (auto)
>engine interest on the list. I
>fly a Mazda Rotary Powered
>RV-6A and just checking to
>see if anyone of similar
>interest.
>
>Best Regards
>
>Ed Anderson
>Matthews, NC
>Rv-6A N494BW Rotary
>Powered
>"Best Auto Engine" Sun & Fun
>2001
Hi Ed,
You might try checking out the Zenith list. There is a lot of discussion there
about ROTARY engines...
Good luck,
John W. Tarabocchia
601HDS Web site: http://hometown.aol.com/zodiacbuilder/Home.html
Airframe 100% Complete...
Tearing Down 0-200
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bdhull(at)uswest.net" <bdhull(at)qwest.net> |
I'd have gone with the Jabiru 8 instead of my Soob if I'd have
known. I have about $4000 invested in a PSRU, Engine, turbo and
ALOT of time. Still need to make engine mounts and buy a vacuum
pump conversion kits ($700) as well as a SDS ignition ($1500)
New engine, readily available parts. Too bad it can't be built
in the U.S. Lycoming and Continental are gonna get real cheap
after a few of these engines prove themselves.
(I have no doubt they will.)
Bart D. Hull
bdhull(at)qwest.net
>--- Original Message ---
>From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com>
>To: engines-list(at)matronics.com
>Date: 4/19/01 11:26:56 AM
>
>The 180 HP Jabiru 8 for $13,000 sounds almost too good to be
true. Are they
>delivering yet and does that include all the needed accessories?
Boy, that
>should give Lycoming a run for their money among homebuilders.
Glad to hear
>about it.
>
>Ed Anderson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Archie" <archie97(at)earthlink.net> |
> New engine, readily available parts. Too bad it can't be built
> in the U.S. Lycoming and Continental are gonna get real cheap
> after a few of these engines prove themselves.
> (I have no doubt they will.)
>
> Bart D. Hull
> bdhull(at)qwest.net
Nice thought, Bill
But there will always be those naive people that feel
if it does not have the FAA's blessing, and is not utilizing
70 year old technology, it is not airworthy.
Some purchasing a new Jabiru may be have difficulty
acclimating themselves to not receiving AD notices on
a regular basis.
It is beyond my comprehension how a company can
produce the same parts for 60-70 years and still
not get it right!
Thank goodness the "other" manufacturers and experimenters
are not sitting still, otherwise we would all be using the Lycosaurus types.
Archie
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rich <rich(at)carol.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
It'll be a while until I hang the engine... late this year I'm figuring.
I have all the tail feathers & the wings done as much as I can until I
hang them on the fuselage. I started the fuselage a week ago. Thanks for
the oil squirt tip. Will WD-40 be ok?
(It's easy to squirt.)
Rich
Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>
> Hi Rich,
> Yes, I recall now you mention the CH801. Well the EG33 certainly should
> provide all the power you need even loafing. The rotary is doing fine, put
> over 2000 miles on it over the past month, so I think things are getting
> settled down.
>
> I would make certain that you squirt a few squirts of oil in each
> cylinder and turn it over ever week or so just to keep cylinder walls from
> rusting.
>
> When do you estimate you will be far enough along to put the engine on
> the airframe?
>
> Ed Anderson
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rich" <rich(at)carol.net>
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 7:54 AM
> Subject: Re: Engines-List: Alternative Engines
>
> >
> > Hi Ed, it's Rich. Don't know if you remember me. Me & a friend fly to
> > your airport to check out your rotary installation.
> >
> > I've decided on a Subaru for my CH801. I picked one up from a salvage
> > yard in NC. Only $900 for an EG33, 230 hp, 47k miles on it, delivered.
> > Very clean. When they get the cars, they take out all the good stuff &
> > keep them inside a hug building. This keeps them nice & clean & dry.
> >
> > I haven't worked on it yet. Still building the plane.
> >
> > How's the rotary treating you?
> >
> > Rich
> >
> >
> > Ed Anderson wrote:
> > >
>
> > >
> > > I am new to the engines-list and was wondering if there were any
> alternative
> > > (auto) engine interest on the list. I fly a Mazda Rotary Powered RV-6A
> and
> > > just checking to see if anyone of similar interest.
> > >
> > > Best Regards
> > >
> > > Ed Anderson
> > > Matthews, NC
> > > Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > > "Best Auto Engine" Sun & Fun 2001
> > >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ed Anderson" <eanderson(at)carolina.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Engines |
WD-40 will work just fine. Just more than one person has found that letting
the engine sit has ruined cylinders.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rich" <rich(at)carol.net>
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 6:12 PM
Subject: Re: Engines-List: Alternative Engines
>
> It'll be a while until I hang the engine... late this year I'm figuring.
> I have all the tail feathers & the wings done as much as I can until I
> hang them on the fuselage. I started the fuselage a week ago. Thanks for
> the oil squirt tip. Will WD-40 be ok?
> (It's easy to squirt.)
>
> Rich
>
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
> >
> >
> > Hi Rich,
> > Yes, I recall now you mention the CH801. Well the EG33 certainly
should
> > provide all the power you need even loafing. The rotary is doing fine,
put
> > over 2000 miles on it over the past month, so I think things are
getting
> > settled down.
> >
> > I would make certain that you squirt a few squirts of oil in each
> > cylinder and turn it over ever week or so just to keep cylinder walls
from
> > rusting.
> >
> > When do you estimate you will be far enough along to put the engine
on
> > the airframe?
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Rich" <rich(at)carol.net>
> > To:
> > Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2001 7:54 AM
> > Subject: Re: Engines-List: Alternative Engines
> >
> > >
> > > Hi Ed, it's Rich. Don't know if you remember me. Me & a friend fly to
> > > your airport to check out your rotary installation.
> > >
> > > I've decided on a Subaru for my CH801. I picked one up from a salvage
> > > yard in NC. Only $900 for an EG33, 230 hp, 47k miles on it, delivered.
> > > Very clean. When they get the cars, they take out all the good stuff &
> > > keep them inside a hug building. This keeps them nice & clean & dry.
> > >
> > > I haven't worked on it yet. Still building the plane.
> > >
> > > How's the rotary treating you?
> > >
> > > Rich
> > >
August 10, 2000 - April 20, 2001
Engines-Archive.digest.vol-ab