Europa-Archive.digest.vol-ah
December 27, 1996 - February 24, 1997
OR7s are altered this cannot be changed therefore:
1) Is my 19 degrees OK?
2) Is it possible that the angle increases as the latch engages?
3) With the angle being fixed independent of the flaps why cannot the setting
and adjusting of OR4 be done on the bench where the repeated assembling and
dis-assembling could be carried out more easily?
Thanks for any advice folks.
John Bean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
| Subject: | s & Tips Compilation |
I have now finished and printed the mamouth Hints & Tips Compilation.
Newsletter and on this forum up to December 1996.
chapter is indexed.
Sec, at 14 The Avenue, Trimley St Mary, Ipswich, IP100TT.
notes.
of vital help during all stages of the build procvess.
Regards to you all and may your 1997 days end in airbourne adventures
David Watts. Editor of the Europa Club Newsletter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | darren stevens <darren02(at)premier.co.uk> |
| Subject: | LSTERY MATERIALS & PANEL PAINT |
Seasons greetings from Martin, I am about to start shopping for materials for
upholstery and paint for finishing the panel. Can anyone suggest names and
addresses for suppliers. Regards Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | darren stevens <darren02(at)premier.co.uk> |
| Subject: | LSTERY MATERIALS & PANEL PAINT |
Seasons greetings from Martin, I am about to start shopping for materials for
upholstery and paint for finishing the panel. Can anyone suggest names and
addresses for suppliers. Regards Martin
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday all,
Could those of you who have installed tailormade pip pin covers please post
how you did them. I have another Aussie builder who has asked me to ask the
forum on his behalf. Thanks in advance!!
Regards
Tony Renshaw
The Aussie Connection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk (Eddie Hatcher) |
| Subject: | Re: Hints & Tips Compilation |
>I have now finished and printed the mamouth Hints & Tips Compilation.
>This is an A4 booklet running to 60 pages containing all the hints and tips
>that have been published in the Europa Club Newsletter, The Europa Factpry
>Newsletter and on this forum up to December 1996.
Thanks and well done, that seems to be a mamouth job indeed. I will contact
you for a copy in the new year.
Cheers again
//// Eddie Hatcher //// Kit 279 /////
//// South East London Flying Group /////
//// bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk /////
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: UPHOLSTERY MATERIALS & PANEL PAINT |
The paint for the panel is 3M Nextel suede finish. It's expensive and the
minimum size pack is enough for 3 panels. I have enough left in charcoal for one
panel. Supplier is Haynes in Leicester. 01533 (?) 536 771. Code may have
changed.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
Tony Renshaw asked about Pip Pin Cover details. I went to a plumbers
merchants and obtained a couple of fittings for the 1.5 inch plastic pipes
that had screw in blanking plugs. I turned them on a lathe so that the plugs
go down to a flush finish and then after lining the hole with BID, set the
fittings in with flox. I have got two small holes in the tops and a small
tool that I can insert to twist them off. John Tye has got a similar
arrangement on his Europa but using some very small fittings that look less
than 1 inch diameter. Another system that I saw at Cranfield which was
particularly neat was a small flat, hinged at the front and held down at the
back with a small butterfly Dzus fastener.
Hope all this is of help, David Watts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
| Subject: | LSTERY MATERIAL & PANEL PAINT |
Graham mentioned the paint for the panel being 3M Nextel which is available
from G.F. Haynes of Leicester and Nottingham. The new phone numbers are
01162-337171 and 01159-396061. Prices for 1 Litre are 33.49 (UK pounds) for
solid colours (black and white) 37.29 (UK pounds) for blends. Thinners 7.37
(UK pounds) and primer 18 (UK pounds). There are 29 colours available and if
you contact them they will send you a nice colour chart and details
regarding application. As Graham said there is more than enough for 1 panel,
but I have seen the insides iof the doors and the 'D' panel painted in the
same material to good effect.
Happy new year from David Watts
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday all,
I'd like to send away my metal components to a professional shop for
anodising but believe the future modifications required before
installation may negate the benefit. Is this a valid concern? If I do send
them away, how do I adaquately clamp the pieces for drilling without
destroying the finish, how do I treat the drill holes, i.e. the exposed
metal within the hole, and is the best idea to not get myself into a big
identification flap, to keep a small "key" sample of each component and then
send away this group for anodising later? I don't have an airless spraygun
for self applying coatings, and would much prefer to get on with things.
Help please??!!
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No 236
e prefers to self apply firstly an Alumiprep 33 aluminium cleaner, followed
by Allodine which is a conversion coating, and lastly Anzapon, a 2 pack
epoxy primer.
>Anyone in centeral UK want anodising or other surface finishing of alloys could
>try Elite Surface Finishing in Banbury Tel(01295)255668 (FAX on same number).
A
>small firm that is eager to help, I have had very satisfactory results and
>helpful advice. So far I have had all the parts of the wing kit anodised where
>appropriate and the inside of the control rods sprayed with PTFE. I am now
>lookong at a non reflective hard anodising coating of internal cockpit items
>that coud be subject to general cockpit wear along with 'normal' anodising of
>other items as appropriate.
>
>As to this forum, could it possibly be split so that all the wingers could have
>their own section and a separate section be allowed to get on with building and
>passing on tips. I seem to remember that the origional Wheeler Express was
>mainly baught down by grumbling and whining by builders and prospective
builders
>prior to its accidents.
>
>John B
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | darren stevens <darren02(at)premier.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: UPHOLSTERY MATERIAL & PANEL PAINT |
At 09:36 28/12/96 GMT, you wrote:
>Graham mentioned the paint for the panel being 3M Nextel which is available
>from G.F. Haynes of Leicester and Nottingham. The new phone numbers are
>01162-337171 and 01159-396061. Prices for 1 Litre are 33.49 (UK pounds) for
>solid colours (black and white) 37.29 (UK pounds) for blends. Thinners 7.37
>(UK pounds) and primer 18 (UK pounds). There are 29 colours available and if
>you contact them they will send you a nice colour chart and details
>regarding application. As Graham said there is more than enough for 1 panel,
>but I have seen the insides iof the doors and the 'D' panel painted in the
>same material to good effect.
>
>Hy new year from David Watts
>
>
My thanks to both you and Graham for the information aboutthe paint,I will
contact them next week.
Regards Martin.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pip Pin Covers |
If you want a cheap and cheerful solution, use plastic closures from
orange-juice packs. Can give you the brand if you want, but if you browse the
supermarkets you will probably find lots of products use them. The surround
almost exactly fits the original hole, so can be recessed and glued in, and
the "hinge" is along a short side, so you can orient it to the front. Snaps
in with finger pressure, and though I have not tested it in anger, there is
no way the suction will open it if you avoid distortion when you build it in.
Another one for your list Tony ?
Graham C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
>> how do I adaquately clamp the pieces for drilling without
destroying the finish, how do I treat the drill holes, i.e. the exposed
metal within the hole<<
Masking tape will help prevent damaging the finish. You should use Duralac
chromate jointing compound when assembling components, it's purpose is to
provide insulation between contiguous metal parts, especially dissimilar metals,
thereby preventing electrolytic corrosion. Don't remove the anodising when
bonding parts in with Redux or epoxy. The Boeing test for chemical cleanliness
before bonding is to place a drop of distilled water on the surface. It should
spread out and wet the whole surface. Dry off with warm air and bond.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Margaret & Dave Watson <dmw(at)querandi.demon.co.uk> |
Tony Renshaw wrote:
> I'd like to send away my metal components to a professional shop for
> anodising but believe the future modifications required before
> installation may negate the benefit. Is this a valid concern? If I do send
> them away, how do I adaquately clamp the pieces for drilling without
> destroying the finish, how do I treat the drill holes, i.e. the exposed
> metal within the hole
Don't worry about the holes, the amount of corrosion you will get in
thin sheet is about zero, but you must assemble all joints with zinc
chromate jointing compound (Duralac), that will definitely stop any
corrosion in the holes and around the bolts etc.
Why not drill all the holes in the peices before you send them off for
anodising? Or alternatively use the tried and test method of coating the
parts in zinc chromate primer, this can be obtained in aerosol cans.
Regards,
Dave & Margaret Watson
#224 G-CUTY (Tri-gear)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Scherer" <ToSSi(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | 31 - Fuel Level Sight Gauge - a hint |
Yesterday I performed Mod 31 which allows for a seperate output from the Tank
to the Sight Gauge line. It calls for a the new double ported fuel outlet
fitting to be fitted with a gauze strainer.
As the outlet holes are not any more in the center of the outlet fitting it is
important to keep the two holes free from any Redux while installing the
strainer. I hung it upside down for curing and made sure the strainer does not
protrude too deep into the new housing,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Scherer" <ToSSi(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | ad to Europa - FTP ? |
I have created two pics (JPG) of my Instrument Panel and the mount for the
Xponder Antenna.
How can I upload to the ftp - directory (ftp.avnet.co.uk/pub/europa/) ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Dufton <dufton(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa tri-gear conversion |
>Hi dave ,
>
>could you upload info on generak performance with the " SooB " engine ?
>
>Happy flying ,
>
>Bryan ;
)
By "SooB" I presume you mean the NSI EA-81 engine from Aero Developments!?
and I also presume you mean with respect to the tri-gear conversion -
unfortunately I can't help you, as I haven't received the mod kit from
Europa Aviation yet, let alone done any performance testing ...
The best people to give you info on the NSI EA-81 range of engines are Aero
Developments at Kemble, telephone 01285 770291 fax 01285 770455.
As soon as I make real progress with the tri-gear conversion, probably
February time, I will inform the Europa forum.
Best Wishes
David Dufton, Born-Again Triker ...
G-OURO
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
>
> Don't worry about the holes, the amount of corrosion you will get in
> thin sheet is about zero, but you must assemble all joints with zinc
> chromate jointing compound (Duralac), that will definitely stop any
> corrosion in the holes and around the bolts etc.
Can you give un non Brits the manufacturers name and contact details (preferably
a fax number)
so we can find local sources.
Thanks
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 12/30/96
Time: 08:51:34 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbamfyld(at)netlink.co.nz (John Bampfylde) |
Happy Christmas, all.
Just getting down the fuselage lid from the ceiling, dusting it off etc in
preparation for cleco'ing it onto the hull. The instructions talk about an
obvious line/margin around the door apertures where you should trim back the
flashing. I don't know about everyone else, but there is no obvious line to
me! Does anyone out there have the dimensions you should trim to, ie x
inches from the horizontal sill, z inches from the vertical forward sill etc?
Regards,
John Bampfylde, #130
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Dufton <dufton(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk> |
I have discovered that one of the major benefits of the tri-gear version of
the Europa is that large tracts of the mono-wheel tunnel, euphemistically
known as the "passenger arm rest" can effectively be dispensed with - but
you have to know WHICH tracts ..
In order to know how the tunnel could be safely modified from the factory
mono-wheel norm, I asked Barry Mellers at Slingsby Aviation to carry out a
stress analysis of the structure. As most of you will know, Barry is an
expert in this field, and has been involved with Europa Aviation from the
early days in stress-related matters, so he knows the airframe ...
Barry is in the process of putting together his final report, which will
include a submission to the PFA - essential if the tunnel is to be modified
of course - and this I will have shortly. The word has it that the inside
of the cockpit can be completely transformed in the tri-gear version of the
Europa.
Barry's time is not cheap, but if any budding trikers would like to help me
defray the costs of his report, I will then send them a full copy of his
findings, including the PFA submission, which should then enable a
hassle-free modification of the tunnel to be carried out.
Clearly, the bigger the interest, the lower the cost - this is estimated at
around =A3200 to myself, as an individual. But another triker, John Grant, has
"bought-in", so we're down to =A3100 each already! The next taker will reduce
this to =A366 of course, and so it comes down with numbers.
Please let me know if you are interested - I can promise you that the word
"transformation" is not exaggerated.
David Dufton, Born-Again Triker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbamfyld(at)netlink.co.nz (John Bampfylde) |
While trying to make sense of the huge range of paint systems around, the
thought occurred to me of approaching it from the other direction:
Are there any paint systems that will NOT work with the Europa filler and resin?
John Bampfylde, #130
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RonSwinden(at)aol.com |
Dear Tony great idea and thanks for the prize donation here is my effort.
The vaccuum sander that I built used a fair spread of bits but best of all
it fulfilled its purpose very well indeed. Take 1 fortyfive year old
electrolux cylinder cleaner. 2. Various lumps of Electric Trunking and or
plastic fall pipe up to 4 ft long for the splines. 3 Abrazive paper to
cover same & 4. blue foam to bung up the ends. 5. Swimming pool condaluted
? hose as used on pools. This is made in poythene and is much lighter than
ordinary cleaner hose (It is still a good idea to take the weight with shock
cords from the ceiling at two or three points when you do the wings. 6. Lots
of gaffer tape(which seems to be turning into duct tape???)
This tool really does keep a heck of a lot of dust out of your
system(respitory)/garage/ aeroplane house WHY
The other rather special accesory that I have used is onlly available if you
llive close by Northleigh and have some spare fruit or chockalate. He is my
seven yr old grandson Harry and he is great for all the mods and what have
you that need dong in the rear of the fus'. I do not ask him to do wet resin
work as i thought he may get stuck in there forever. Trouble is he now
knows there is enough room for seats for him and his elder brother Tom in
the back and he is not terribly impressed by the weak excuses put up by his
grandfather about weight and balance and all tha theoretical stuff.
Good to be back to you all, lots of Physio groaning to do yet but I can get
on with circuit diagrams an all that good stuff.
Happy New year to you all Keep well and fly safeley Ron S No 33.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: taildragger conversion |
At 21:14 29/12/96 GMT, you wrote:
>I have discovered that one of the major benefits of the tri-gear version of
>the Europa is that large tracts of the mono-wheel tunnel, euphemistically
>known as the "passenger arm rest" can effectively be dispensed with - but
>you have to know WHICH tracts ..
Has anyone taken a look at the implications of of fitting conventional
landing gear to the Europa?
for:
-variable flap settings
-tamer runway behaviour
-more space (see above) or an extra fuel tank
-differential brakes
against:
-new landing gear mount
-possible reduced soft/rough field performance
-slower cruise/efficiency
Anyone care to put some numbers to this?
Happy new year to all
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Paint Systems |
>>Are there any paint systems that will NOT work with the Europa filler and
resin?<<
Yes, don't use a primer that isn't epoxy based.. I think you will regret it in
a
few years. Except perhaps if you put on a special barrier coat.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lid Trim Lines |
>> Does anyone out there have the dimensions you should trim to, <<
No, but remember this is where the door sealing rubber fits, so if you compare
it with the door, that will give you an idea.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeffrey J. Jennings" <jj_jennings(at)mindspring.com> |
I'm looking for an electronic instrument panel for my Ducati 916 race bike
and I found information about your company searching the web.
Do you have a web site / home page where I can get more info ?
Jeff Jennings
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CPattinson(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Lid Trim Lines |
I dont remember anything in my instructions about trim lines on the door
apertures - I WISH THERE HAD BEEN. I do remember an instruction to trim away
around the aperture leaving an inch or so for the rubber seal(my dimension is
approximate). There was no warning not to cut away the GAS SPRING RECESS.
Presumably the factory thought this was common sense. Now that I have removed
this essential part of the fuselage it seems hard to understand how I misssed
it, but I did. Needless to say I have a large gap at the back of the door and
no seal ! Sadly it aint easy to rebuild after you have cut it off especially
when the offcuts are on the corporation tip !
BTW the easiest way I found to locate the fuselage trim lines is to rub a
lead pencil too and fro accross where one assumes the lines run. This seems
to highlight them. Of course you must remove all traces of the graphite
before gluing etc.
If you do have trim lines on your fuselage this should make things a lot
easier and hopefully you wont lop off any essential bits.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CPattinson(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: WARNING - Zinc Chromate Primers |
Dave Watson suggested using Zinc Chromate primer and I dare say some types
are suitable. Any ZC primer simply wont do especially if it is not an etch
primer (usually this comes as a two part and so a spray system is desirable
although I have used a brush.
The important thing is that whatever primer you use it mustbe an "etch
primer" as the normal "car" variety will simply chip off very soon. I learned
the hard way and did just that.
Anodising still seems to be the best option
BTW someone mentioned a DIY system of anodising recently. Does anyone have
details of this system and is it available in the UK. Since I am having to
redo many of my bits I considered this idea otherwise I will resort to using
my etch primer.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RonSwinden(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Silly Season Arrives |
Dear Tony
just found another entry for your competition. When they
fitted my new hip joint they had to cut a fairly long slit in the side of my
thigh to get it in. That done they used some stainless steel paper clips to
temporarily fasten me together again. Yesterday along comes the kind lady
with a pair of disposable sterile nylon and stainless pliers like crimping
pliers and she proceeded to take out the clips so naturally I had to stop
such a neat tool from going in the gash bin. I tell you mate they are magic
for persuading the wires in my panel to go where I want them to go and for
making small circlips, great. True what they say you have to capitalise
your liabilities.
Happy New year Ron S No 33 Will we see you in UK in 97?????
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | skypilot <skypilot(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Pip Pin Covers |
Gramin(at)AOL.com wrote:
>
> If you want a cheap and cheerful solution, use plastic closures from
> orange-juice packs. Can give you the brand if you want, but if you browse the
> supermarkets you will probably find lots of products use them. The surround
> almost exactly fits the original hole, so can be recessed and glued in, and
> the "hinge" is along a short side, so you can orient it to the front. Snaps
> in with finger pressure, and though I have not tested it in anger, there is
> no way the suction will open it if you avoid distortion when you build it in.
>
> Another one for your list Tony ?
>
> Graham C
This sounds like a very good idea but what sort of life expectancy does
the hinge have? Not having seen one, I imagine the actual hinge is the
squeezed thin plastic type. I would think the hinges are designed for a
very limited life expectancy/use. Another consideration would be the UV
breakdown of the plastic used. Do not manufacturers, these days use
plastic which breaks down under UV to be environmentally friendly?
Regards
Denys Gover.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim_thursby(at)simphonics.com (Jim Thursby) |
| Subject: | Zinc chromate primers. |
The use of zinc chromate primers on aluminum parts is a excellent
alternative to anodising, providing proper procedures are followed. First
of all not all zinc based primers are self etching. Second, were you using
automotive products, you need to inform your retailer exactly what you plan
to do with the product. Bear in mind that all self etch products are
activated with some form of acid, and contact with water will deactivate
the etching properties of the primer. So if moisture contact is unavoidable
you should topcoat the primer with enamel/urethane paint. In most cases in
the Europa a spray can of Krylon or similar will suffice. Also if you are
acid etching aluminum parts and then etch priming them, you are doing the
same procedure twice, and could get adhesion problems down the road. As I
work for a automotive refinish supplier in the U.S., and refinished
vehicles for 14 years, I have some knowledge of these products. If anyone
has questions primers or topcoats, e-mail at jim_thursby(at)simphonics.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D.Howard(at)kid0110.wins.icl.co.uk |
| Subject: | Ply etc. Questions |
Having just completed the fin I could do with some help and advice
on the use of peel ply and general finishing layup techniques to
ensure future components are a bit tidier.
Q1. Should the glass on a second ply be cut shorter than the glass
on the first ? The good book describes this for the first side of
the fin (where several widths of peel ply will be applied) but no
mention for the second side (where just 1 width of peel ply is to
be used). Is there a general rule ?
Q2. Once you've applied a layer of peel ply, what's the best way
to wet it out given it's difficult to squeegy off excess resin
especially on a curved leading edge.
Q3. I've finished up with excess resin either side of the peel
ply, is this a problem or can I simply sand it off at the
finishing stage.
Q4. My peel ply leaves odd blue strands within the layup which I
can't remove. Is this a problem and should I get some less bitty
peel ply.
Any related tips gratefully received.
Happy New Year
- Dave Howard (#309)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McFadyean <101234.3202(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: taildragger conversion |
I had thought about conventional gear too, but decided to build the Europa as
originally intended (for now!).
Add to your list of "fors" increased prop clearance.
Drag from well faired fixed gear is conventionally thought to be insignificant
below about 120mph. But I wouldn`t have GUESSED any more than 5 to 10 mph would
be lost from top speed.
I had in mind Wittman taper rod (available off the shelf in the States) gear
taken directly off the LG mount a-la Vans RV series, although Europa layout
dictates reduced separation of the legs. No thought given to stress analysis.
Lets have some more debate on this one.
Duncan McFadyean.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McFadyean <101234.3202(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WARNING - Zinc Chromate Primers |
I have always used Alodine (a sort of DIY anodising) and epoxy chromate primer
on my alloy bits. Believe me, if you want to remove the stuff you will have to
grind it off!
Alodine is not supposed to be quite as good as factory anodising but does score
in two significant areas. These are:
1. The bond of the primer is crucially affected by contamination of the
treated surface (one finger print is enough contamination). With Alodine, the
treated surface can be painted within minutes of treatment, thus minimising the
opportunity for comtamination. Unless parts returned from the anodisers are
thoroughly redegreased, there is a good chance that bond strength will be
adversely affected.
2. Anodised surfaces will slowly hydrate which reduces the strength of
the subsequently applied bond . Boeing have developed a proprietry technique
(involving the use of phosphoric acid) which inhibits this and allows longer
storage of parts before use.
As our noble leader says, "cleanliness is next to Godliness".
All IMHO of course.
Rgds Duncan McFadyean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbamfyld(at)netlink.co.nz (John Bampfylde) |
| Subject: | Re: Lid Trim Lines |
Thanks for this- I'll get onto it this afternoon. However I forgot to
mention- what about the trim line around the windscreen?
>>> Does anyone out there have the dimensions you should trim to, <<
>
>No, but remember this is where the door sealing rubber fits, so if you compare
>it with the door, that will give you an idea.
>Graham
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: WARNING - Zinc Chromate Primers |
The other thing about Zinc Chromate is that it is _nasty_ stuff. Aircraft Spruce
are
now very reluctant to sell it to non professionals as it is a known carcinogen.
System Three's aluminium primer over alodined sufaces bonds like you wouldn't believe!!
Tony
wrote:
> I have always used Alodine (a sort of DIY anodising) and epoxy chromate primer
> on my alloy bits. Believe me, if you want to remove the stuff you will have to
> grind it off!
>
> Alodine is not supposed to be quite as good as factory anodising but does score
> in two significant areas. These are:
>
> 1. The bond of the primer is crucially affected by contamination of the
> treated surface (one finger print is enough contamination). With Alodine, the
> treated surface can be painted within minutes of treatment, thus minimising the
> opportunity for comtamination. Unless parts returned from the anodisers are
> thoroughly redegreased, there is a good chance that bond strength will be
> adversely affected.
>
> 2. Anodised surfaces will slowly hydrate which reduces the strength of
> the subsequently applied bond . Boeing have developed a proprietry technique
> (involving the use of phosphoric acid) which inhibits this and allows longer
> storage of parts before use.
>
> As our noble leader says, "cleanliness is next to Godliness".
>
> All IMHO of course.
>
> Rgds Duncan McFadyean
>
>
---------------End of Original Message-----------------
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 01/03/97
Time: 09:40:02 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
| Subject: | Re: Peel Ply etc. Questions |
>Q1. Should the glass on a second ply be cut shorter<
Yes the 2nd ply of glass is cut 10-20mm short of the first just as you did
on the first side of the fin, then peel ply enough to cover all the ends,
which might be more than one strip of peel ply. You can't put on too much
peel ply as there is even a school of though suggesting the whole surface
can be peel plyd. There are advantages and disadvantages to this though.
>Q2. what's the best way to wet out the peel ply<
You generally do not need to put any more resin on the peel ply. If you
first squeegy the whole surface, then apply the peel ply and stipple it in
place with a brush, drawing the resin up through from the layup.
>Q3. I've finished up with excess resin either side of the peel ply<
It sounds like you have put too much resin on for this to happen.
>Q4. My peel ply leaves odd blue strands within the layup<
This is a problem you seem to have to live with. Try and trip as many loose
strands off before you start.
Hope this is of help. David Watts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
| Subject: | Re: WARNING - Zinc Chromate Primers |
Duncan McFadyean mentioned using Alodine instead of anodising the alloy
parts. I have already anodised most of my parts, but I am interested in the
possibility of using Alodine on the remaining few. Any idea of where it can
be obtained and how much.
Thanks, David Watts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham E Laucht <graham(at)ukavid.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: taildragger conversion |
In message <970102191117_101234.3202_GHV77-1(at)CompuServe.COM>, Duncan
McFadyean <101234.3202(at)compuserve.com> writes
>Drag from well faired fixed gear is conventionally thought to be insignificant
>below about 120mph. But I wouldn`t have GUESSED any more than 5 to 10 mph would
>be lost from top speed.
I thought the reasonable comparison of ratios of parasite to total drag
was around 0.65Cdp for a fixed and 0.85Cdp for a rectractable though
those numbers usually relate to conventional gear and not to a single
inline tandem.
> although Europa layout
>dictates reduced separation of the legs.
Must be to do with the central hump, does that therefore discount it as
a desirable mile high club machine?
The excellent stability had I thought qualified it especially it's
compliance with JAR-VLA23 ie. the bit about establishing the safety of
operation including the range of lateral centres of gravity if possible
loading can result in significant variations in position.
Otherwise I like the notion of tapered rod spring gear, simple in fact
elegant in many respects and a big plus, the aircraft won't fall over
when you take the wings off. There is a nice example of the genre in the
new Glasstar which shows the simplicity of construction. The only
downside is the rods cost a bomb and do rather loosen the fillings off
piste.
--
Graham E Laucht
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: WARNING - Zinc Chromate Primers |
The manufacturer is Henkel, a _very_ large chemical manufacturer. They UK
office should able to give you an source. You will also need Deoxydine to clean
the
surface before Alodyning.
Tony
> Duncan McFadyean mentioned using Alodine instead of anodising the alloy
> parts. I have already anodised most of my parts, but I am interested in the
> possibility of using Alodine on the remaining few. Any idea of where it can
> be obtained and how much.
>
> Thanks, David Watts.
>
>
---------------End of Original Message-----------------
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 01/03/97
Time: 10:57:57 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Patrick McKay" <ibisair(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | ure of Ipswich Airport |
I would be most grateful if you would lend your support to keeping Ipswich
Airport Open. Officially the airport closed on the 31st Dec 1996 but a number
of operators and the Pitts Bar on the airfield are defying Ipswich Borough
Council's order to quit the premises.
If you would like to help please ask your members/associates to write to:
Mr I J Piper
The Department of Transport
Great Minster House
76 Marsham Street
London SW1P 4DR
Thank you, your support will be most appreciated.
Kind regards
Paddy McKay
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McFadyean <101234.3202(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: WARNING - Zinc Chromate Primers |
In reply to your query, Alodine is usually available from stockists of Stits
(now Polyfiber) products. In the UK this includes Aircraft Spruce and Aly
Aviation at Henstridge aerodrome. Cost (from memory) is about L10 per US quart
plus carriage.
Rgds Duncan McFadyean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: WARNING - Zinc Chromate Primers |
At 21:24 02/01/97 GMT, you wrote:
>Duncan McFadyean mentioned using Alodine instead of anodising the alloy
>parts. I have already anodised most of my parts, but I am interested in the
>possibility of using Alodine on the remaining few. Any idea of where it can
>be obtained and how much.
>
>Thanks, David Watts.
Alodyne, Alumiprep (the pre-alodyne acid cleaner -essential) and zinc
chromate paint in various forms (spray cans, epoxy 2-packs) are available
from aircraft spruce.
The standard aircraft finishing rationale is as follows:
Alodyne provides a similar surface to anodising (it's chemical anodising, if
you like) -it's hard, corrosion resistant (it's inert, itself) and paint
bonds to it far better than aluminium alloys.
Zinc chromate provides "active" corrosion prevention -as well as acting as
an undercoat. Epoxy is best because it adheres extremely well, but makes for
a poor finishing coat -it goes dull and dusty in time.
Linear polyurathanes (2-pack) of the correct type provided an excellent long
lasting, damage resistant finishing coats. But -it is difficult to repair
seamlessly.
Personally, I won't use etch primer on critical parts.
All the best,
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Scherer" <ToSSi(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | es uploaded and available through WWW |
Peter Thomas has offered to make images available on the WWW. I had taken some
of the instrument panel and of the mount I made for the Xponder antenna.
The URL is:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/europa/tseuro.htm
I shall try and provide more images as my own web-page grew old and cannot be
updated (my fault...).
Of special interest might be the Autopilot installation - a design done by a
british Engineer who lives close-by.
Thank you Peter for the platform,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
Try our web page below.
If you have problems e_mail me.
Jerry
--
**************** FlyingHi - Wish I was ****************
>>>>UK distributor for Arplast Composite propellers<<<<
>>>>>>> http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown <<<<<<<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pip Pin Covers |
<>
Yes Denys, they are just thin plastic hinges, but I wound one back and forth
a hundred times and it didn t fall off. Even if you derig (or look in) every
flight, that's long enough. If it breaks is not disastrous, and they cost
literally nothing, if you or your kids like orange juice. Come to think of
it, the snap action keeps it in even if the hinge is removed , though you
might drop it in the grass then.
!
Put them in with impact adhesive rather than epoxy, and renewing is easy if
needed..
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Tony K's Tips Comp. |
Deutz Champagne??? Never heard of it! But if its anything like your cheese
it must be alright. Can you tell me why I was unable in a land with over 70
Million sheep, in 3 weeks of eating every night in restaurants, I was unable
to get a rack of lamb???
Building Tips.
Havent read too many responses yet so here is a simple one.
Dynamic Lifter. Yes, pelletised chook poo!! In sandwich bags and also the
whole 20 kg bagfull. Use it for weighing down components as the 5 minute
dries to take kinks out of foam blocks. If a bag splits, unlike sand which
penetrates and gets everywhere, you can see every pellet, and the larger bag
disperses the weight evenly, whilst not creating localised compression
injuries to your prize and joy!
Regards
Tony Renshaw
The Aussie Connection
>Since the festive season approaches and some of us will soon be
>lying by the pool, eating barbecued prawns and sipping fine New Zealand
>wine while thinking of how nice it is not to have to trudge through slush
and snow
>it might be a nice idea to have a week of levity.
>
>A question....
>
>What items have you used in the construction of your aircraft that most people
>would never think of using?
>
>I know we have roller blinds and 35mm camera film containers so far!
>
>To make thinks more interesting I will courier a bottle of New Zealand
>Deutz champagne to the submitter of the most ingeneous/unusual/strange/whatever
>suggestion.
>
>For each submission you should identify the item, where it was used on the
aircraft and
>why you used it!
>
>Post entries to europa(at)avnet.co.uk so we can all enjoy them.
>
>
>Tony
>--------------------------------------------------------
>Date: 12/18/96
>Time: 08:20:12 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
>
>Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
>PO Box 9830
>Newmarket
>Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
>New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
>
>Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
>--------------------------------------------------------
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | David Dufton <dufton(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Closure of Ipswich Airport |
At 18:21 03/01/97 UT, you wrote:
>Council's order to quit the premises.
>If you would like to help please ask your members/associates to write to:
>
>Mr I J Piper
>The Department of Transport
>Great Minster House
>76 Marsham Street
>London SW1P 4DR
>
>Thank you, your support will be most appreciated.
>
>Kind regards
>Paddy McKay
Paddy, I have been only to glad to write in the strongest possible terms to
the D of T bemoaning the impending loss of Ipswich - I do hope that as many
readers to the Europa page as possible follow suit - there's not much left
in Suffolk now ...
If you would like to e-mail your postal address, I will send you a copy of
the letter.
Good luck with your efforts
David Dufton G-OURO ______{*}______
e-mail dufton(at)avnet.co.uk 0
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | 's Builder Hints Contest |
Another entry for Tony's contest...
An electric router of the type used for woodworking is ideal for making the
rebates for the W18 plates. Took about 10 minutes to get the depth set by
trial and error on scrap foam, then about 20 minutes to make all rebates for
both wings. Of course, you have to sand the edges by hand to make a smooth
transition.
The router is also useful in setting the rebate depth in the foam around the
edge of the aileron bellcrank access window once the top glass is removed.
And if the router depth is set much deeper, the hole through the center of
the access window can then be roughed out including foam and the lower layer
of glass. A Dremel with a sanding drum is the easiest way to do the final
adjustment of this hole's bottom edge, then use the Dremel wire brush to
remove a little foam for the flox corners.
One drawback to using the router is that it turns foam and/or fiberglass to
powder. The dust is as hazardous as that produced by sanding these materials,
so use appropriate safeguards.
Regards,
John, #A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | James Hull <hullhous(at)mc.net> |
| Subject: | headset conversion |
Some weeks (months?) ago, there was a posting about an ANR (active noise
reduction) conversion kit for homebuilder's headsets. I was a little
bit wary, but ordered a kit through Aircraft Spruce ($160 US). The kit
is well built, and fit my FlightCom 5DX set perfectly. Yesterday I put
it to the test. I fired up my Avid, turned on the radio and listened to
the usual noise. Then I turned on the ANR power supply. What a
difference!! The ANR works best with low frequencies, and the Rotax 582
tends to favor high frequency noise, but the result was still terrific.
So impressed am I, that I will order a second kit for my passenger's
comfort. There will be provision for this unit when I get to the panel
building stage.
Negatives? The instructions are confusing, but the drawings included
are excellent, so the conversion is not difficult. Sure beats the cost
of Clark or Bose units.
Headsets, Inc is located in Amarillo, Texas. Their e-mail address is
anrsets(at)aol.com
Their phone number is (806) 358-6336, or 800 876-3374 for us Yankees.
Jim Hull A016
the windy city
Stage 1 complete !!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Tony's Builder Hints Contest |
JohnJMoran(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Another entry for Tony's contest...
>
> An electric router of the type used for woodworking is ideal for making the
> rebates for the W18 plates. Took about 10 minutes to get the depth set by
> trial and error on scrap foam, then about 20 minutes to make all rebates for
> both wings. Of course, you have to sand the edges by hand to make a smooth
> transition.
>
> The router is also useful in setting the rebate depth in the foam around the
> edge of the aileron bellcrank access window once the top glass is removed.
> And if the router depth is set much deeper, the hole through the center of
> the access window can then be roughed out including foam and the lower layer
> of glass. A Dremel with a sanding drum is the easiest way to do the final
> adjustment of this hole's bottom edge, then use the Dremel wire brush to
> remove a little foam for the flox corners.
>
> One drawback to using the router is that it turns foam and/or fiberglass to
> powder. The dust is as hazardous as that produced by sanding these materials,
> so use appropriate safeguards.
>
> Regards,
> John, #A044
Also exceedingly handy for the rebates in the TP cores, etc. But since
all of these are light-duty jobs, before you go out and buy a whole
router, you can pick up the router attachment for your trusty Dremel
tool (you _do_ have a Dremel, don't you?) for all of $27.99. What I did
for the TP rebates was, first, use an extremely tiny bit to rout a line
right to dimension, getting nice square corners, then took the Dremel
sanding drum, which normally has a central screw that protrudes a bit
past the end of the sandpaper, and slid the paper off just far enough to
get past the screw (readjusting router depth accordingly, of course).
Works a treat, at least on "no resistance" stuff like foam, and I think
the little Dremel is a lot easier to maneuver than the "real men's" type
1 1/2 hp woodworking router.
You're right about the dust, though--although at the moment I have the
annual winter Flu and one more bout of paroxysmal coughing won't make
any difference!
________________________________________________________________________________
>I'm looking for an electronic instrument panel for my Ducati 916 race bike
>and I found information about your company searching the web.
>
>Do you have a web site / home page where I can get more info ?
>
>Jeff Jennings
>
>
3 January 1997
Dear Jeff
Thank you for your enquiry. Not sure whether we can help you regarding the
instrument panel, however, you are very welcome to look at our web site.
The address is HTTP://www.europa-aviation.co.uk/
Please let me know if you think we can help you.
Happy surfing
Regards
Alizon Holland
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Thomas Scherer" <ToSSi(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Tony K's Tips Comp. |
Deutz Champagne ?!?
As I try to use parts from as many countries as possible - I finally found a
Chinese element to go flying in the Europa:
The handle for the brake is cut off a Chinese Ping Pong racquet. It feels
comfortable and is leightweight. To install, I cut it in half and provided a
trough for the metal bit to sit in with space for some Redux-Flox. It was
glued together and then covered with finishing epoxy (looks like a wet clear
coat).
As for the wx: Finally the time has come to power-slide that car around turns
on the snow and finally the nights are longer than the days.
Sincerely
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Tony's Builder Hints Contest |
>>The router is also useful in setting the rebate depth in the foam around the
> edge of the aileron bellcrank access window once the top glass is removed.<<
I can't think of any reason why this rebate should not be put in BEFORE the wing
skin goes on. Ramp the sides of the rebate so the biaxial will sit down easily.
All you have to do then is build up a flox fillet to suit the cover plate and
the job's done.
Any comments Andy?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ChuckPops(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Tony's Builder Hints Contest |
Another handy hint or three-
I always try to mix a bit more resin than I need (better than too little,
given the problems with small batches), so I usually have some left over.
Rather than let it harden and be consigned to the gash bin, I put leftover
resin, flox and micro pots into the freezer. I have thus kept them for
several days, and maybe up to a week. When I need a bit of resin or flox, I
pull out the frozen pots, pop them into the microwave for a few seconds, and
have instant mixed (and warm) materials! Only caveat is that microwaves seem
to catalyze curing, so the microwaved materials must be used quickly!
Also, I buy chip brushes from Harbor Freight for about 30 cents each, for
resin application. After using the brush for a layup, I pop it also into the
freezer without cleaning. This allows up to 4 layups for each brush before
it starts to get stiff and must be consigned it to the gash bin. This sure
beats cleaning brushes with acetone, which I used to do. Cheaper too, I'll
bet!.
Pops
A'building #A36
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | henk(at)loginet.nl (Henk Roelofs) |
| Subject: | ker disks on trim link-rod (Deutz Champagne) |
>
>Deutz Champagne !
>
We used two disks of a checkers game to prevent that the 'tee' of
the trim tab link-rod (TS05) is pulled to far out of the fuselage
when the tailplanes are removed.
Sadly, now we can't play checkers anymore :-(, surely there must be
somebody who found a better solution.
Best regards,
Henk & Bart, #264
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Carl Reynaud" <Carl_Reynaud(at)ccmail.eo.ray.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Checker disks on trim link-rod (Deutz Champ |
Yes, you could learn to play chess :-)
Carl #159
______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Checker disks on trim link-rod (Deutz Champagne
Date: 07/01/97 07:24
>
>Deutz Champagne !
>
We used two disks of a checkers game to prevent that the 'tee' of
the trim tab link-rod (TS05) is pulled to far out of the fuselage
when the tailplanes are removed.
Sadly, now we can't play checkers anymore :-(, surely there must be
somebody who found a better solution.
Best regards,
Henk & Bart, #264
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Checker disks on trim link-rod (Deutz Champagne) |
In a message dated 07/01/97 12:08:32, you write:
>surely there must be somebody who found a better solution<.
Well I don't know that its better, but I just wasn't able to use discs on the
T-bar as
the port size of my fin closeout it virtually against the aperture -( it came
out this way due having to trim a lot off to get the hinge line straight).
So instead I have glassed in a plywood partition athwartships with a
vertical slot to confine the lateral movement of the bar
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tony's Builder Hints Contest |
>>>The router is also useful in setting the rebate depth in the foam around the
>> edge of the aileron bellcrank access window once the top glass is removed.<<
>
>I can't think of any reason why this rebate should not be put in BEFORE the
wing
>skin goes on. Ramp the sides of the rebate so the biaxial will sit down
easily.
>All you have to do then is build up a flox fillet to suit the cover plate and
>the job's done.
>Any comments Andy?
>Graham
>
>
Quite right Graham.
As the manual does cover a method for making the access hole (in the aileron
chapter), and as there's not enough time in the day to start revamping it, I
don't envisage altering things at this stage I'm afraid.
I'll put it on my "things to do" list though.
Andy>
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Peel Ply etc. Questions |
>
> Having just completed the fin I could do with some help and advice
> on the use of peel ply and general finishing layup techniques to
> ensure future components are a bit tidier.
>
> Q1. Should the glass on a second ply be cut shorter than the glass
> on the first ? The good book describes this for the first side of
> the fin (where several widths of peel ply will be applied) but no
> mention for the second side (where just 1 width of peel ply is to
> be used). Is there a general rule ?
>
> Q2. Once you've applied a layer of peel ply, what's the best way
> to wet it out given it's difficult to squeegy off excess resin
> especially on a curved leading edge.
>
> Q3. I've finished up with excess resin either side of the peel
> ply, is this a problem or can I simply sand it off at the
> finishing stage.
>
> Q4. My peel ply leaves odd blue strands within the layup which I
> can't remove. Is this a problem and should I get some less bitty
> peel ply.
>
> Any related tips gratefully received.
>
> Happy New Year
>
> - Dave Howard (#309)
>
Hope the following will help:-
A1. A second ply laid onto the previous ply should always be shorter
than the first to avoid having a kink and, therefore, weak point. The peel
ply on the first fin layup serves to prepare the surface for subsequent
bonding, whereas the the peel ply on the second layup is simply to produce a
smooth edge to the fibres.
A2. Stipple it with a brush to get the best results.
A3. Excess resin is best removed before it cures. You can soak it out
using old rags if squeegying is awkward. You can sand it off down to the
level of the fibres but not beyond this, so you do end up with excess resin
still there.
A4. The odd strand is not a problem.
Regards
Andy
>
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Peel Ply etc. Questions |
| From: | erichdtrombley(at)juno.com (Erich D Trombley) |
The first thing I would recommend is getting rid of the peel ply supplied
with the Kit and replacing it with peel ply from Aircraft Spruce, in
several widths. i.e. 2" and 3" . The larger widths are great for the
wing skin lay ups and other od shaped pieces that require a complete
covering of peel ply. The stuff from Aircraft Spruce wets outs out just
like a layer of glass cloth, you can see if the peel ply either too wet
or dry...very nice indeed. You will find that it also is free from
frayed ends/sides and it is easily removed after cure.
The second layer of glass needs to be approximately 1cm shorter than the
first layer anytime a subsequent layer of glass will be bonded to it
after cure or a transition is desired, hence the need for peel ply. i.e.
when laying up the first side of the fin you would stagger the glass by 1
cm to allow a nice transition for the glass from the second side of the
lay up.
To get rid of the excess cured resin as a result of using the peel ply
supplied with the Kit I would recommend using a razor blade held
perpendicular to the skin and scrapping it along the affected areas.
What's nice about the razor blade is that it only shaves the high spots.
Once you reach glass you will notice it immediately, then stop. You can
then finish up by sanding to get a uniform surface.
As far as the blue strands are concerned, try and remove as many of them
as possible. However, if you are going to bond another layer of glass
over the area I wouldn't worry about a few strands here and there. Using
the above razor blade technique also seems to work quite well in removing
the strands. First and foremost get rid of the blue peel ply and try the
stuff from Aircraft Spruce. You won't believe the difference it makes
it's incredible!!!
Well I hope the above help you with your project. Keep at it , it's well
worth the effort.
Erich Trombley
Builder A28
Tucson, AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | peteb(at)cix.compulink.co.uk (Pete Brownlow) |
| Subject: | plane for Christmas |
As I am not yet a builder, I generally have just lurked here soaking up
all the collected wisdom and, apart from my intro on joining the list,
this is my first posting.
However, maybe I can now count myself an aircraft builder.
Knowing that I am interested in the idea of building a kit-plane, my
wife bought me one for Christmas! This was such a surprise that I just
had to share the news with you all.
It uses an entirely new construction technique. It comes ready
fabricated in just 3 parts which have to be assembled by the builder.
These are the fuselage, wings and tail assembly. There is a noticeable
similarity here to the division of the kits for the Europa.
The most revolutionary part is that it uses a material not previously
used in aviation. It is made of chocolate.
What's more, the manufacturers assure me that the chocolate fuel tank
does not suffer from expansion problems when filled with fuel and that
an undercarriage made of chocolate provides perfect damping and energy
absorption for even the heaviest of landings. And if you get the
landing really wrong, it is always possible to swallow your pride...
I have already assembled my new aircraft. However, I suspect that its
life expectancy is strictly limited. The big question is, can I get it
inspected and the permit to fly issued before it goes the way of all
other things made of chocolate?
Happy new year to all,
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | n Pump Calibration |
Gidday all,
Can anyone give me a tip to calibrating my AR100? I've just set it up with
SP Ampreg 20 and pulled off several quantities. The ratio is set up for 29
parts hardener to 100 resin. You would naturally think that the 2 quantities
when weighed would equate to the correct 4:1 ratio, but no! The ratio is
1.89:1 resin to hardener. Mind you my workshop is currently only 20 Degrees
Celsius. I briefly spoke to the Australian agent for the AR 100 who said the
only fault with the J&B Product is that they do not mention the maximum
required viscosity, centipoides I think he called it. He said that maybe
because it was thick resin anyway, that being also a tad colder than ideal,
I should build a resin box. Already done that though , just awaiting a visit
to the hardware for a bulb base so that I can wire it into the same dimmer
that keeps my glass cloth cupboard above warm. What setting do others using
SP resin and also the AR100 have theirs set to?? Tony K, the boys at Flyer,
or anyone else????
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
The Aussie Connection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
|Revision A, 1-9-97 to original posting
I've seen some conversation recently concerning "Adel" clamps
and their suitability for use around fuel, high temps, etc.
I've pulled the specs and will excerpt some of their contents
as follows:
The "Adel" clamp is more properly called an MS21919 aircraft
clamp. The company named Adel built a goodly portion of the
MS21919 clamps back in the 60's (and may still). The term
sort of stuck on these devices in spite of the fact that they
are now made by dozens of companies.
|The full description for these clamps follows the convention
|MS21919WXXZZ where:
|W = "wedge" feature in cushion that helps prevent escape of small
|wires out of cushion. Virtually all new production of MS21919 clamps
|below size 50 have the wedge feature . . .
XX characters have the following significance:
DE = Aluminum band, Ethylene Propylene Cushion (212F)
DF = Aluminum band, Nitrile Cushion (212F)
DG = Aluminum band, Chloroprene Cushion (212F)
CE = Corrosion Resistant Steel band, Ethylene Propylene Cushion (275F)
CF = Corrosion Resistant Steel band, Nitrile Propylene Cushion (200F)
CH = Corrosion Resistant Steel band, Silicone Cushion (400F)
CG = Corrosion Resistant Steel band, Chloroprene Cushion (212F)
CJ = Corrosion Resistant Steel band, Fluorosilicone Cushion (450F)
F = Low Carbon Steel Band, Nitrile Cushion (212F)
G = Low Carbon Steel Band, Chloroprene Cushion (212F)
H = Low Carbon Steel Band, Silicon Cushion (400F)
CAUTION - Clamps with low carbon steel bands are not recommended
for new design and most were purged from stocks back in early 80's
. . . however . . . you never know what might show up in the
Fly-Market at OSH so I've included the "heads up" here.
Cushion Application and Color Information:
Ethylene Propylene - for use in areas contaminated with phosphate-
ester hydraulic fluid and other synthetic fluids. Excellent ozone
resistance., Not resistant to petroleum based fluids. Color shall
be solid purple.
Nitrile - for use primarily in fuel immersion and fuel vapors.
Good ozone resistance. Not resistant to phosphate-ester based fluids.
Not for use on titanium tubing. Color shall be solid yellow.
Chloroprene - for general purpose use in areas contaminated with
petroleum based hydraulic fluids and occasional fuel splash.
Excellent ozone resistant. Not resistant to phosphate-ester
based fluids. Not for use on titanium tubing. Color shall be
black with a blue identifier patch.
Silicone - for elevated temperature usage in phosphate-ester
based fluid and other synthetic fluid contaminated areas.
Unaffected by ozone. Not resistant to petroleum based fluids.
Color shall be natural white.
Fluorosilicone - for elevated temperature usage in petroleum
based fluid contaminated areas. Unaffected by ozone. Not resistant
to phosphate-ester based fluids. Color shall be solid blue.
|Silicone - RED now obsolete and used only on the low carbon
|Steel
-------------------------------
The last characters (ZZ) are digits describing the internal
diameter of the closed clamp in 1/16ths of an inch. E.G. an
MS21219WDG4 is aluminum strap inside a chloroprene cushion
and sized to support 1/4" diameter bundle of wires, tubing, etc.
I note that the spec does not speak to the "red" cushions
currently being discussed. I recall seeing a number of clamps
with red cushions over the years but quite frankly, I don't know
if they were MS21919 or perhaps some other part number.
|UPDATE: All of the "reds" have been purged from Raytheon's stocks,
|couldn't even find one in the junk boxes that I had access to. Mr.
|Sobek says the the one he found does carry the part number MS21919H**
|which tells us it is indeed the obsolete, low carbon steel version
|and silicon rubber (not recommended for use where "wet" with
|hydrocarbons.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | PGrif75120(at)aol.com |
Has anybody fitted locking door locks to their Europa?
I know it's another key to lose but what is the concensus of opinion. Has
anyone found a really trick system?
Patrick Griffin. (CN 69)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ians(at)flyer.co.uk (Ian Seager) |
| Subject: | Re: Resin Pump Calibration |
have theirs set to?? Tony K, the boys at Flyer,
>or anyone else????
>Regards
Same as you from memory 29/100...although Miles can confirm this.
Ian
Ian Seager FLYER Magazine, 3 Kingsmead Square, Bath, BA1 2AB
Tel: 01225 481440 Fax: 01225 481262
http://www.flyer.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill(at)wynne.co.uk |
If you give:
Voice, Robin 01453,834032
opportunist thief.
Bill W-Wynne N52=B036.7' W004=B004.5' (N Wales) 01654 710101/2/3(fax)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
Reply to Alan Stewart
>>How is your In flight adjustable prop Graham. Last I heard, It didnt have a
powerful enough motor to change the setting
in cruise.<<
It's fine. Don't know who told you the motor was too weak. Not true. It may have
been an early prototype you heard about. Ours has been back to France for checks
of the balance. We had some vibration which may well have been caused by the
composite spinner backplate crushing and losing bolt tension. When the new
cowling and cooling installation is finished (week or two) we will fly with the
Warp drive first to reduce the variables, then refit the VP.
GKWHIP gave 131 knots or slightly more at 5,750 rpm with the Warp drive. VP gave
us 135 knots at same revs. If it gets noisy that implies vibration, prop or
spinner balance and needs fixing. Excessive vibration tends to cause things to
break. Also check for any part of the engine, engine mount or exhaust touching
the cowls or airframe. Silencer is very close to the firewall. Vibration will
reduce your speed because it destroys the laminar flow boundary layer.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk (Eddie Hatcher) |
Hi everyone,
We are now at the wing building stage, infact we have already started. We
would like to fit some Nav lights and strobes as seen on some other Europas
but, would value some opinions on:-
a) Which type of strobe/nav lights have people found to be best for the Europa
b) How have you run the cables/conduit to them, and how would you intend to
replace the cable if it beacame damaged? ( We couldn't decide which
lightening hole to run them down and whether of not it is advisable to make
more than the recomended holes in the wings ribs.)
We can't see a way of running them without having two 90 degree turns in the
tip to allow the cable to surface somewhere in the middle.
c) How big are cables to power these units (does it depend on the units
being used.)?
Has anyone got any drawings that they could download (dxf or other pc file
formats)
This stage has caught us somewhat by suprise as we now see no easy way of
installing them once the wing is completed. We were originally to run only
the conduit to leave our options open but I can't see that being too
successful when it comes to running the cables if they have to corner sharply.
Yes we know that it is a VFR machine, but it doesn't hurt to be seen eh!!
Cheers all
Eddie, Bill and Nick
//// Eddie Hatcher //// Kit 279 /////
//// South East London Flying Group /////
//// bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk /////
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
In message <199701102307.XAA22651(at)easynet.co.uk>, Eddie Hatcher
writes
>es we know that it is a VFR machine, but it doesn't hurt to be seen eh!!
I made a compromise and fitted a single strobe underneath forward of the
tailwheel - can't be seen from above, but when viewed from below against
cloud it should help. Pete Smoothy sells some excellent single and
double units and is a very helpful guy. Can't find his company's number
at the moment, but he gave a useful talk at the last club seminar and
someone listening will be able to help.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cliff <john(at)duncoding.demon.co.uk> |
See The Europa Flyer issue six, p.13.
The fuel cap is 11 (GBP) and a pair of door locks is 12, including post
in the UK.
The cap (just the centre of it) is exchanged, so must be unmarked. The same
key is used for ALL Europas. I don't see this as a problem. I am more
interested in knowing that nobody (e.g. small boys!) has introduced
anything unwanted into the fuel tank while the machine is parked away from
5 star airport security. Likewise the door locks will deter casual fiddlers
John Cliff
#0259
________________________________________________________________________________
I have fitted RD Aviation's IFR-EL set and ACL100 strobe. The latter has its
power unit
integral below the lamp so fitting/wiring is easy. Just a dorsal hole above
the baggage compartment.
Plastic conduit was installed running dead straight from root to tip just
forward of the spar. It was easy to thread the necessary wiring later when
the wings were finished, as
there are no bends. Indeed such runs have been bored in completed wings
using 1/2" inch tubing with a drill on the end - use with a crank though, not
an electric drill , working from each end.
The wiring gauge depends on the wattage of your bulbs and can be looked up in
an electrical manual at the library. 19 AWG is ok for 3 amps but If you
used 3 x 36 watt
bulbs the 9 amps would soon flatten your battery if you left them on for
pretty ground display
I doubt if any reasonable power of nav. light helps visiblity much by day,
certainly in comparison with a strobe - so zero diameter wiring would do
(:-))
Incidentally the tail light is something of a problem if it is to conform
with the polar pattern regulations for real lighting systems, due to there
being no fixed part of the
aeroplane facing rearwards. Perhaps it doesn't have to conform to anything
when not flying at night so you could have it lit up all over like a
Christmas tree by day ?
I have a built-in fairing in the top rear of the rudder which has aerodynamic
implications. PFA approval is necessary for all lighting systems.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 09/01/97 20:20:31, you write:
>Has anybody fitted locking door locks to their Europa?
I fitted locks after the doors were complete. Barrel locks with levers are in
the Maplin catalogue, and I persuaded them into a matched pair of keys. Then
cut a 35 mm hole
just above the rear rod cabinside. Drill through the Al rod at 45 deg. and
screw in a 3mm steel rod.
Fit the lock barrel in the outer side, so the lever comes back against the
rod when locked, and it can't then be moved. Plug the cabin side holes with 2
more of the doughty
35mm can tops (of the nine standard in G-EMIN).
Graham C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bill(at)wynne.co.uk |
Re: message <199701102307.XAA22651(at)easynet.co.uk>, Eddie Hatcher
Rolph Muller wrote:
helpful guy. Can't find his company's number..........
Pete Smoothy is at Airworld (UK)Ltd,
11, Kleach Close,
Winslow,
Bucks
MK18 3PX
01296,714900
Rotax, and they work fine and are reasonably priced. He is also very helpful.
Bill W-Wynne N52=B036.7' W004=B004.5' (N Wales) 01654 710101/2/3(fax)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dennis Lowe" <DennisL(at)inovatec.co.uk> |
Still working on the workshop, hate mixing concrete in the snow. It takes
for ever to set! But apart from that I have a problem. After completion
the w/s will be used to house the plane. I can only get a maximum of 81"
internal width. Using cranked hinges for the doors, this should also be
available for entry/exit. Will the wheels of the tri-gear fit? I have a
'faxed drawing from the factory and scaling up, the track to the outside
edges of the wheels appears to be about 78". I understand that final
drawings are not available yet.
Has anyone reached such a stage on the tri-gear that they can give me an
actual figure for the track?
Before anyone says it, yes I know, build the mono!
Many thanks
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Evers <evers(at)avnet.co.uk> |
>Incidentally the tail light is something of a problem if it is to conform
>with the polar pattern regulations for real lighting systems, due to there
>being no fixed part of the aeroplane facing rearwards.
The Katana lights look ideal to me. Only two wing-tip units each with
forward colour, rearward white and hemispherical++ strobe. I seem to
remember that there is only one bulb for navigation in each unit. I'm not
sure where the strobe ht is generated.
Eric Evers
Ayrshire, Scotland.
Ham: GM0 BVK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
Alan(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk
Graham - if you just give the max speed information it is not very impressive.
4kts better at 135 kts is an improvement in efficiency of around 9%.
But at 4000 rpm you were doing 115/118 kts which is much more impressive.
Jerry
PS Due to the strong pound (weak FF) the PV50 electric In Flight Variable
Propeller is the cheapest its ever been.
**************** FlyingHi - Wish I was ****************
>>>>UK distributor for Arplast Composite propellers<<<<
>>>>>>> http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown <<<<<<<<
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Margaret Watson <dmw(at)querandi.demon.co.uk> |
Dennis Lowe wrote:
| Date: | Jan 13, 1997 |
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | crank Access Window |
Very nicely timed. Thank you.
Tony
wrote:
> >>>The router is also useful in setting the rebate depth in the foam around the
> >> edge of the aileron bellcrank access window once the top glass is removed.<<
> >
> >I can't think of any reason why this rebate should not be put in BEFORE the
> wing
> >skin goes on. Ramp the sides of the rebate so the biaxial will sit down
> easily.
> >All you have to do then is build up a flox fillet to suit the cover plate and
> >the job's done.
> >Any comments Andy?
> >Graham
> >
> >
> Quite right Graham.
>
> As the manual does cover a method for making the access hole (in the aileron
> chapter), and as there's not enough time in the day to start revamping it, I
> don't envisage altering things at this stage I'm afraid.
>
> I'll put it on my "things to do" list though.
>
> Andy>
> -------------------------------------
> Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
> Fax No 44 1751 431706
> -------------------------------------
>
>
---------------End of Original Message-----------------
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 01/13/97
Time: 07:58:54 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Resin Pump Calibration |
Yes,
Build yourself the 4:1 ratio balance from the manual and use this to calibrate
the
pump. I recalibrate it each time I fill it up the resin or the hardener.
It only takes a few minutes to check it out.
Tony
> Gidday all,
> Can anyone give me a tip to calibrating my AR100? I've just set it up with
> SP Ampreg 20 and pulled off several quantities. The ratio is set up for 29
> parts hardener to 100 resin. You would naturally think that the 2 quantities
> when weighed would equate to the correct 4:1 ratio, but no! The ratio is
> 1.89:1 resin to hardener. Mind you my workshop is currently only 20 Degrees
> Celsius. I briefly spoke to the Australian agent for the AR 100 who said the
> only fault with the J&B Product is that they do not mention the maximum
> required viscosity, centipoides I think he called it. He said that maybe
> because it was thick resin anyway, that being also a tad colder than ideal,
> I should build a resin box. Already done that though , just awaiting a visit
> to the hardware for a bulb base so that I can wire it into the same dimmer
> that keeps my glass cloth cupboard above warm. What setting do others using
> SP resin and also the AR100 have theirs set to?? Tony K, the boys at Flyer,
> or anyone else????
> Regards
> Tony Renshaw
> Builder No.236
> The Aussie Connection.
>
>
---------------End of Original Message-----------------
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 01/13/97
Time: 08:01:47 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
wrote:
> Hi everyone,
>
> We are now at the wing building stage, infact we have already started. We
> would like to fit some Nav lights and strobes as seen on some other Europas
> but, would value some opinions on:-
>
> a) Which type of strobe/nav lights have people found to be best for the Europa
I am fitting the Whelan homebuilt special from Aircraft Spruce Part # 11-5600 (I
think). This gives
strobe, colour and white lights on the tip. The unit only draws a few amps of current.
> b) How have you run the cables/conduit to them, and how would you intend to
> replace the cable if it beacame damaged? ( We couldn't decide which
> lightening hole to run them down and whether of not it is advisable to make
> more than the recomended holes in the wings ribs.)
> We can't see a way of running them without having two 90 degree turns in the
> tip to allow the cable to surface somewhere in the middle.
Drill a 15mm hole 10cm forward of the spar through the root core. This will bring
you out
into the first lightening hole. Find some _very_ light conduit - I used concertina
flexible conduit.
Make some supports from foam that you can distribute through the lightening hole
to
keep the conduit up against the foam. Apply 5 minute epoxy and bond it in place.
The flexible conduit
allows you to make the turn at the tip quite easily.
> c) How big are cables to power these units (does it depend on the units
> being used.)?
The Whelan units come with a multicore cable around 5mm in diameter for the strobe.
You also need
a pair of wires for the lights.
>
> Has anyone got any drawings that they could download (dxf or other pc file
> formats)
No I don't but my web site has some photos which may help.
> This stage has caught us somewhat by suprise as we now see no easy way of
> installing them once the wing is completed. We were originally to run only
> the conduit to leave our options open but I can't see that being too
> successful when it comes to running the cables if they have to corner sharply.
Run the conduit and like all good cablers install a draw wire before buttoning
up.
> Yes we know that it is a VFR machine, but it doesn't hurt to be seen eh!!
>
I agree. See and be seen.
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 01/13/97
Time: 08:05:09 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
(of the nine standard in G-EMIN).
Where are the other 7??
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 01/13/97
Time: 08:12:45 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
I have just returned to work after my summer break and will be going
through the competition entries this week. If you have any further
entries they will be accepted until Friday.
Before you ask, no the holiday wasn't the greatest. We got hit by two cyclones
-
the first in over 10 years. No major damage thank goodness but the roses I put
in just
before Christmas are now in my neighbours garden and my swimming pool is full of
leaves.
If you want to see something interesting you should watch a 747 landing in wind
that is 40 gusting
to 65 knots on the ground and 65 to 80 at 2000 feet. Best show in town was the
viewing area at the
airport in the middle of the cyclone!!
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 01/13/97
Time: 08:16:03 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Stewart <alans(at)kbss.bt.co.uk> |
Re: Bill Wynne's earlier mail regarding lockable fuel cap and door locks.
I phoned Robin Voice. He returned my call, was very helpful, and asked that
I pass on this message to you all.
He can indeed provide an exchange lockable fuel cap (on return of undamaged
original !), and the materials for two door locks. (all the keys are
to be identical) for the princely sum of 23 GBP.
Fuel cap 11 GBP
Door locks 12 GBP
Post & packing and instructions for fitting are included. The job is
relatively straightforward and shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.
Robin Voice 01453 -834032
7 Point Road,
Avening
Tetbury
Gloucester
GL8 8LY
Regards,
alan stewart (Kit 38)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk (Eddie Hatcher) |
Hi everyone
Thanks for the response to my questions. I will look into the different
systems mentioned and hopefully come to a concrete conclusion soon.
Cheers
//// Eddie Hatcher //// Kit 279 /////
//// South East London Flying Group /////
//// bizzarro(at)easynet.co.uk /////
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MIKE <mike.a0011109(at)infotrade.co.uk> |
Could anyone help please with any information about a good transponer ant and G.P.S
ant - I am not far off putting the lid on my Europa and want to get as much
wiring in as possible. I believe there is a good Txp available from the U.S.A
but cannot find out who and how much.
Also has anyone fitted a skyflash strobe system and if so where is the best place
for the head and method of mounting.
Many thanks. Mike.96
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
For those who are interested, it weighs in at 800 lb, including
Rotax 912
Gelcoat paint system
6 flight instruments
Terra Comm and Transp.
Colourmap 2000 GPS
Strobe
Fire ex and 1st aid
Damper
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Transponder Ant. |
>Could anyone help please with any information about
>a good transponer ant and G.P.S ant - I am not far
>off putting the lid on my Europa and want to get as
>much wiring in as possible. I believe there is a good
>Txp available from the U.S.A but cannot find out who
>and how much.
I still have a few transponder monopole antennas from
the pile of surplus stuff I purchased some years
ago . . these are brand new King Radio antennas in
original containers. They're $10 each plus shipping.
These mount on a 5.25" diameter aluminum ground plane
on belly of composite or fabric airplane . . . or right
on belly skin of aluminum airplane. These sell for 25-
40 dollars in the catalogs. E-mail me directly
if you're interested in a transponder antenna.
With respect to external GPS antennas, consider trying
a hand held with internal antenna . . . See Sport
Aviation Nov 96 issue. I've been flying the Magellan
GPS2000 in a variety of airplanes and for $149 it does
everything I want it to do . . .
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McFadyean <101234.3202(at)compuserve.com> |
Re the locking fuel caps, is possible to leave the fuel cap in an unlocked
condition for flight?
The CAA don`t like locked caps; probably because the fire services just love to
fill your tanks with foam at the least provocation!
Duncan McFadyean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RonSwinden(at)aol.com |
Pete did indeed give a very good lecture as Rolph says he is at Airworld (UK)
Tel 01296 714900 Fax 01296 713303 Ron S No 33
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 12/01/97 19:30:58, you write:
>Where are the other 7??
Knew you'd ask that ! - but still had to go out and look
Firstly there are 4 cans over the ends of the door cone ends to stop water
getting in.
(somene elses suggestion way back, can't remember who)
Then there is a lid one snapped into the top of each control column with PTT
switch (at least until the weapon arming and hud is fitted)..
Then there is one on the deep part of the instrument panel covering the two
main fuses
which project through the bulkhead. Not so much that they should be replaced
in flight (though it might be nice to at least inspect them if you get a
serious electrical failure), but to plug in leads (dummy fuse ends) for
charging a flat battery without taking out all those cowling screws and
exposing the engine on a wet day (which, as is well known always provokes a
flat battery). Or turned round, you can drive your electrical equipment from
a power supply when ground testing without using the battery.
Pity the pip pin holes aren't round or it'd be 11, but thats where the apple
juice lids go.
G
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Tri-gear HELP!! |
>Still working on the workshop, hate mixing concrete in the snow. It takes
>for ever to set! But apart from that I have a problem. After completion
>the w/s will be used to house the plane. I can only get a maximum of 81"
>internal width. Using cranked hinges for the doors, this should also be
>available for entry/exit. Will the wheels of the tri-gear fit? I have a
>'faxed drawing from the factory and scaling up, the track to the outside
>edges of the wheels appears to be about 78". I understand that final
>drawings are not available yet.
>Has anyone reached such a stage on the tri-gear that they can give me an
>actual figure for the track?
>Before anyone says it, yes I know, build the mono!
>Many thanks
>
>Further to Margaret Watson's reply to your e-mail, the 36.75" is the
relaxed dimension, and you will need to allow approximately 2" per side on
top of this for the deflection of the legs under load. You also need a bit
extra if you intend fitting spats.
One other point - when pushing the fuselage backwards, the toe-in which the
legs will have when under load will tend to splay the legs a bit more.
Regards
Roger Bull
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cliff <john(at)duncoding.demon.co.uk> |
Yes it is.
The locking cap is the same as the normal one supplied by the factory
except that when the sprung lever is lifted it uncovers a small barrel
lock. If this is locked it prevents the lever from being turned to line up
the lugs and release the cap, but if it is not locked the cap functions
just as the normal one does.
Regards,
John Cliff
----------
> From: Duncan McFadyean <101234.3202(at)compuserve.com>
> Cc: (unknown)
> Subject: Re: Door Locks
> Date: 13 January 1997 19:04
>
> Re the locking fuel caps, is possible to leave the fuel cap in an
unlocked
> condition for flight?
> The CAA don`t like locked caps; probably because the fire services just
love to
> fill your tanks with foam at the least provocation!
>
> Duncan McFadyean
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Francis <101520.2660(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | stable height workbenches |
Reading through a motorcycle mag, I came across an ad. for hydraulically height-
adjustable workbenches, which although intended for motorcycles, seemed ideal
for homebuilt aircraft applications. They come in a range of sizes, mostly
utilising manual trolley jacks, but I reckon that an enterprising builder with
a truck power
steering pump and a small electric motor could motorise the whole thing fairly
readily. Jack-up wheels can also be fitted. The whole thing looks a bit like a
scissor lift, and prices start at a couple of hundred quid
Handy Height Products
Langley Road Industrial Estate
Loddon
Norfolk
NR14 6BN
Tel 01508-520262
Fax 01508-520384
For anyone considering the Europa BMW engine option, I've got an unused and
unopened official BMW Repair Manual for the R1100R/GS/RS/RT range of
motorcycles, which includes comprehensive strip-down, maintenance and repair
information on the engine and associated systems.
Price GBP 59.00, including postage - anyone interested, just E-mail me your
address
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
>>Pity the pip pin holes aren't round or it'd be 11, but thats where the apple
juice lids go.<<
No reason why they shouldn't be round. In fact some people have removed the key
rings from the pip pins and use a special tool to remove and replace the pins
(all 4). Gernot Schwetz has the nicest one I've seen, you can positively check
that the pins are properly locked in when in situ. The tool grips the barrel and
has a central pushrod to release the pip pin.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
wrote:
> >>Pity the pip pin holes aren't round or it'd be 11, but thats where the apple
> juice lids go.<<
My pip pin holes are round and look really nice. Amazing what you can do
with a waste drain fitting.... boy that Champagne tasted good (only kidding).
Any last minute entries?
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 01/15/97
Time: 16:47:35 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Just a silly one: At last, I have found a use for all those old telephone
directories: They are perfect for chopping up and using as infinitely
variable spacers for alignment, leveling workbenches and wing stands and the
like.
As for those film canister lids: which type are you using (grey plastic
female, or clear plastic male) ?
(tail) pip pin covers: we are using round clear plastic window plugs from
heyco, inserted into machined ali housings. Needs a tool (or small
screwdriver) to remove them, and will hold the pip pins in place in the
event that the pip fails.
Wingtip skids: 2"X6" inserted into bottom surface just outboard and forward
of the aileron, held in place with 3 screws in case it needs to be replaced.
Prevents the need to mix up more resin and paint when an outrigger fails to
perform. Sailplanes use wood, but as I stumbled across some titanium stock.....
All the best
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Graham,
Recently you mentioned that the pip pin holes could in fact be round. I also
read a tip about using a lathe to shape a PVC end pipe fitting for a 1 1/2"
diameter. This results in a flush cap for the pip pin which needs a key
similar to an angle grinder to open it. This method also keeps water out! I
have a feeling this method may have been yours originally, but irrespective
its a great idea. You mention Gernot Schwetz's pip pin tool. I want to
incorporate such a system into my a/c and need to know a bit more about this
tool please? I like the idea of having redundancy should the pip pin
internals give way. I have already heard about industry people who do not
trust pip pins. I also feel there is no need to have a way for water to
penetrate the internals of the tailplanes. I appreciate the quantity would
be small, however it needn't be. I will however install the drain just in
case! Any help from yourself, or anyone else would be appreciated.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
The Aussie Connection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Round Pip Pin Holes |
Tony R,
The pip pin holes needn't be more than 3/4" IMHO. I will have to ask Gernot for
more details, I want to make his tool for myself anyway.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rudder cable system |
One cable can go slack in the Europa. Operationally is could be that this
will never happen with feet on the pedals, but if you are of the "can happen,
will happen" school then read on. The consequence of a slack cable have been
seen on the ground by more than one builder when ground testing the gear, and
the consequences in the air would be serious. I have already had an instance
of tufnol guide block breakage this way. The springs intended to take up the
slack would need to be much stronger to remove the slack, as they need to
overcome friction in the plain bearing of the pedals and rubbing of the cable
on retaining guides and/or tubes if fitted, the latter being one way of
ensuring that the cable cannot in fact snag on the gear. However they
themselves contribute to the difficulty taking up the slack as there must
always be exposed cable near the crank.
The problem could not arise if the cable were a continuous U from tail to
front and back again, but this is not possible with the engine sitting
between the cranks. Several solutions are possible of varying complexity.
1) Lock a pair of gears on the pedal link tubes centrally where they cross
betweeb the firewalls. Tidy but difficult to fit retrospecively unless you
cut one into two halves and make a suitable bolt-through attachment.
2) Fit cranks on these tubes, one up one down and link across. Unfortunately
not enough
space to link directly betwen the shafts, so the coupling has to be a U
shape.
3) Cable-link the uprights of one pedal set, round pulleys and across the
fore end of the footwell
Finally, be revolutionary in the spirit of the monowheel and throw out all
the footpedal mechanism entirely. Make the cable system a "closed U",
returning it across the tunnel round pulleys at the side of the tunnel, just
behind the wheel. Fit a pivoting operating lever through a transverse slot
in the tunnel top. Hand operation is probably quite adequate for anything but
aerobatics, or you could fit a servo assist Might need a side throttle if
you like to keep a hand on the thottle while taxying.
Well, who's going to be first ?
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
<.
Tks Eric, didn't know you could have tail lights on the wings ! Where do
they come from ? - pity I've paid out an exhorbitant sum for the current set.
Prompty knocked the tail one on the garage door - its made of glass would
you believe (not the door), and cost 30 quid to replace- outrageous !.
Graham C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Thanks for the letters of support/encouragement....
After quite a lot of to-ing and fro-ing, we seem to have come up with a
workable installation scheme... at least, I think so. It will add about 45
lbs to the empty weight, and will involve a different fuselage top molding
-basically the addition of parachute harness channels down the sides in line
with the aft cockpit bulkhead, and across the roof to the windshield.
This does mean that it won't be retrofittable -you will need to build the
fuselage with the BRS top half if you want to fit one.
The front harness will be attached to the engine/landing gear mount, and
possibly as a consequence (a decision yet to be made) the windshield will
break out when the BRS is deployed. It is being assumed that the airframe
will be written off when you deploy the parachute, but given the right
conditions, it might well survive to fly another day. At any rate, it it
doesn't, you will.
The next stage is refining the details and performing stress analyses on the
mounting points (each must withstand 8250 lbs...) and looking at the
consequences of molding in channels and holes. Final decision to go/ not go
is about 4 weeks away.
The possibility of offering a BRS/Europa is realistically at least a year away.
All the best,
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Having got to the stage of fitting the wing trailing edge blocks to the
spar, it has become apparent that there is a small unwanted error in the
washout of the wing leading edges; Quite how it got there, I'm not totally
sure: I was absolutely certain that things were straight when checked after
cure.
However, the most reasonable candidate was operator error of the digital
level: when used in "alt-zero" mode it appears to be imperative to maintain
the same orientation of the level, as flipping/rotating it to check the
other end of the wing introduces twice the error off true vertical. This
also applies (as I believe happened in my case) when the "true vertical"
within the level isn't -ie it needs recalibrating, as mine was as a
precaution after dropping it....
So -what to do about it. Currently the situation is:
Right tip (leading edge section) is at 1.2 degrees, and the left is 1.8
degrees. - in other words, the error at each tip is plus or minus 0.3
degrees off spec.
Any suggestions?
All the best (and holding my breath)
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: The rudder cable system |
Has anyone looked at routing the rudder cables through bowden outers whilst
in the tunnel? this would allow the cables to be routed hither and thither
to clear various things.
Venhill engineering (01306 885111) supply teflon lined motorcycle cable
components that are excellent: you can literally tie the cable in knots
without increasing the friction...
All the best
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Marvin Alvarez (BIO)" <malvarez(at)chuma.cas.usf.edu> |
Hello to all;
My name is Marvin Alvarez. I live in Tampa, Florida, U.S.A. which is about
ten minutes by air west of Lakeland, the American headquarters of Europa
Aviation. I took my introductory flight with Roger Sheridan in October '96
and purchased the tail plane kit. I am about two hours away from finishing
the kit and ordering the wing kit. I am a member of EAA and learned to fly
some 37 years ago. I resumed active flying in 1991 and have since flown
400 hours and restored two certified airplanes. Building from the kit is
much easier and pleasant since one only has to build instead of taking
apart and replacing as in a restoration. I look forward to communications
with fellow builders in the U.K. and U.S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Turner <100113.2571(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | rudder cable system |
>> Finally, be revolutionary in the spirit of the monowheel and throw out
all
the footpedal mechanism entirely. Make the cable system a "closed U",
returning it across the tunnel round pulleys at the side of the tunnel,
just
behind the wheel. Fit a pivoting operating lever through a transverse slot
in the tunnel top. Hand operation is probably quite adequate for anything
but
aerobatics, or you could fit a servo assist Might need a side throttle if
you like to keep a hand on the thottle while taxying. <<
The 1910 Deperdussin my wife and I polish at The Shuttleworth Collection
uses a similar system, only with a steering wheel for rudder control
instead of a lever and the pulleys mounted externally on the fuselage
sides.
Now waiting with baited breath for the first Europa with wing warping ...
T.T.
Motoring with OzWin 2.10 (g3)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Evers <evers(at)avnet.co.uk> |
><.
>
>Tks Eric, didn't know you could have tail lights on the wings ! Where do
>they come from ?
>Graham C
I flew Katanas at Fife Flying Club (Glenrothes) in April & May of last year
to wrap-up my PPL. I strongly recommend the aircraft & the Club which is
associated with Tayside Flying Club at Dundee & Tayside Aviation (which owns
6 Katanas). Further comment available on request. The Chief Engineer,
Stewart Baxter, gave a presentation on the Katana at Glenrothes last
Wednesday (15th). If the weather had been more pleasant (=flyable) I might
have made the 190 mile round trip. You should be able to talk to him by
phoning 01382644372. I'm sure he will be able to give you chapter and verse
on the universal wing-tip lights.
BTW the Katana is 'all electric' and has a Hoffman variable pitch prop on a
Rotax 912. (And a tricycle undercarriage!)
>
>
Eric Evers
Ayrshire, Scotland.
Ham: GM0 BVK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | the Winner is.......... |
Firtly may I say thanks to all that took part in the
Christmas competition. It is very obvious that there are some
inventive people out there with objects as diverse as ping pong bat handles
and checker game parts being submitted.
There was one person who stood out among the crowd for the use
of non aircraft parts in his Europa.
The winner is Graham (Now where should I locate the cat) Clark who has, by my count,
the following items in his aircraft
Nine 35mm film containers
Two Orange juice container snap closures
Two car roller blinds
An ultrasonic parking aid as a ground proximity detector
and no doubt has more bits planned yet!!
Congratulations Graham. If you give me a delivery address your Champagne
will be on its way to you.
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 01/17/97
Time: 11:17:00 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Washout errors... |
>> there is a small unwanted error in the washout of the wing leading edges<<
Since none of us can guarantee exactly equal wings, this is what I am now
advising everyone to do.
Build the wings as per normal, trying to keep them as straight as possible, then
make a template to give you a level at 70% span. When you set the incidence, (&
bond on the lift pin sockets,) Make the incidence of each wing the same at 70%
span, not at the root. I might be tempted to guess a slight deflection to
counteract engine torque, but no more than .1 degrees. The extra incidence on
one side at the root will have little effect on roll trim.
Credit for this tip should go to Tim Dewes, who I believe isn't on here. He's a
glider repairer and inspector.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: The rudder cable system |
>>Has anyone looked at routing the rudder cables through bowden outers whilst
in the tunnel? this would allow the cables to be routed hither and thither
to clear various things.<<
Yes. This is the way Lancair do it, also our guru Burt Rutan. We used 3/16" OD
nylon tubing and glassed it in place with 2 plies of BID.
I believe we aren't the only ones?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ChuckPops(at)aol.com |
Hi Graham C.
The Katana uses the same Whelan wingtip lights that I am building into my
Europa. This is the A600-PG/PR Strobe/Navlight set, obtainable from
Aircraft Spruce. A bit pricey, but I could find nothing else to compete.
Disadvantages are power drain of 7 amps and weight with P/S and wiring some
6 pounds!! :-(
Best Regards
Pops
US #A36
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Washout errors... |
What do you recommend the incidence should be a 70 percent of span? As there is
washout it can't be the
same as the root incidence given in the manual.
Tony
wrote:
> >> there is a small unwanted error in the washout of the wing leading edges<<
>
> Since none of us can guarantee exactly equal wings, this is what I am now
> advising everyone to do.
> Build the wings as per normal, trying to keep them as straight as possible, then
> make a template to give you a level at 70% span. When you set the incidence,
(&
> bond on the lift pin sockets,) Make the incidence of each wing the same at 70%
> span, not at the root. I might be tempted to guess a slight deflection to
> counteract engine torque, but no more than .1 degrees. The extra incidence on
> one side at the root will have little effect on roll trim.
> Credit for this tip should go to Tim Dewes, who I believe isn't on here. He's
a
> glider repairer and inspector.
>
> Graham
>
---------------End of Original Message-----------------
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 01/17/97
Time: 13:15:55 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 15/01/97 12:00:47, you write:
> film canister lids: which type are you using
All male, black for instrument panel and control columns, grey (polythene)
for door locks.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pip pin covers |
In a message dated 15/01/97 00:23:40, you write:
>No reason why they shouldn't be round.<
In my case the 35mm lids don't fit well in the tight curvature of my root
flange. The apple juice ones are only 15mm across one way. In retrospect I
shouldn't have been so mean with the flange size.
I park the pins when de-rigged,through holes in the bottom of the baggage D.
If they're still there when I go flying then my pre-flight check procedures
need revision. Come to think of it circuit closure through the tips might be
worth installing to warn when they're parked there. Would be even better
applied to the installed positions, but might be a bit tedious to wire up
retrospectively.
BTW anyone had trouble clonking the end of the flap extension on the flap
tube- always when single handed rigging. Perhaps I'm getting short-sighted or
careless or both.. I've repaired mine twice Think I'll add a steel insert.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "jclopez" <calima(at)epm.net.co> |
| Subject: | ction of bombardier rotax |
Hi,
I'm looking for a email of BOMBARDIER - ROTAX
if you have plese send me
Juan Carlos Lopez de Mesa
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Washout errors... |
>>What do you recommend the incidence should be a 70 percent of span? As there
is washout it can't be the
same as the root incidence given in the manual.<<
Set up the first, best ?:-) wing using the root incidence. Then measure the 70%
incidence and match the other wing to it.
A spirit level is accurate to 1/10th of a degree or less, just doesn't tell you
the angle. I prefer the level for these jobs it's analog, not digital so you get
a better impressuion of trends. Whichever you use, mark one end forward and one
aft, never swap ends, or up and down for that matter.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: And the Winner is.......... |
Thanks Tony - I'd almost forgotten what the rules were - but it reads like a
greenpeace
exercise - can't guarantee to smash it over G-EMIN's nose when its launched
but will rig up a suitable simulation. Will send you a sample when ready of
edible composite, under development for use if you ever have to make a forced
landing in foreign parts like the outback, Shaw forbid !
You forgot the interheadrest drinks tray cum footrest-now awaiting filling.
Nearly proposed tennis-ball can lids for inspection hatches as wifey is
ball-custodian for the local tennis club (no comments please, we're British).
All the best from Graham Clarke, that's Clarke with an e !
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The rudder cable system |
In a message dated 16/01/97 11:11:41, you write:
>Has anyone looked at routing the rudder cables
If you don't want to undo the ferrules, or split a nylon tube, then there is
nylon spiral enclosure readily available ( for electric cables) which can be
threaded on, and will peform similarly. But there will always be hefty
sideways forces however low the friction, so it had better be well (sic)
attached.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ChuckPops(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | igger Latch Trimming |
I just got through setting up the outriggers and I have an uneasy feeling
that I should have been a little more careful in grinding away the step on
OR4 to fit. I ground off a little at a time until the step would just slip
past the pawl (OR7A) with a mil or 2 clearance. Then, once it slipped past
and latched, a gap would open up because of the angle of OR7A which would
cause considerable play in the fully latched outrigger leg. I resolved that
the second one would be a better fit and was more careful, but to my dismay,
it came out exactly the same! Well, at least they match!
Slipping in a feeler gage in between the step of OR4 and the latching surface
of OR7A sufficient to remove all of the play, I find that in both legs the
gap is .028" when the flap is fully extended and the OR latched. This seems
like a lot of free play, especially out at the wheel end. How about it,
guys, is this too much and should I start again? Has anybody else gaged this
clearance?
Also, I found it necessary to grind the spring attach end of OR4 to get
clearance with the wing undersurface while extending the flaps and gear.
This should be done sparingly--the result should be a straight line parallel
to the wing undersurface and with no more than 1 mm clearance with the wing.
Grind too much and you end up with too much play when in the gear up
position. How do I know this? Heh. Ah well, I guess that I can build it up
again with weld and then grind it right this time. :-(
Now, if I could just do this all over again, I KNOW that I could get it
right!
TIA for sharing any insights.
Pops
US#A36
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: The rudder cable system |
In a message dated 16/01/97 18:12:09, you write:
>The 1910 Deperdussin my wife and I polish at The Shuttleworth Collection<
>uses a similar system<
Wel as "they" say "there's nothing new under the sun", be we must keep
trying. As a corollary, instead of a side-throttle, the rudder lever could
have a twist grip, but you could keep your hand on the standard throttle if
there was a forearm stirrup on the rudder lever.
More power to your elbow !
Graham C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Passmore <phil(at)passmore.demon.co.uk> |
Just a quick note as requested by the auto-responder to introduce
myself.
I have recently passed my PPL, and have been lusting after a Europa
since before I started to fly. It will be a long time before I am in a
position to build one myself, so I make the following offer:-
I live near Nottingham UK, and would love to lend a hand to someone who
is building one of these A/C. I am not looking for part ownership, or
any recompense for any help I can give, I would just like some hands on
experience. If you live in my part of the world, and would welcome an
extra pair of hands as a skivvy/goffer, then please get in touch.
Cheers
--
Phil Passmore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
I've been reading the various methods people are using to cover the pip
pin holes in the stabs. I'm awed at some builders' ingenuity and
industriousness--Tony's plumbing fittings are particularly nifty.
Just a thought, through, from a (lazy) old sailplane pilot. Many of our
glass birds have various and sundry fittings here and there, not to
mention the long joins where wings plug into the fuselage, etc., and
since we traditionally rig and derig a lot more often than "Europeans,"
we just use stretchy white vinyl tape, available from various and sundry
gliding suppliers, etc. Sometimes we leave it on for days or even weeks
at a time (if we're lucky enough to avoid landing out in some wretched
paddock and having to derig).
It's what I plan to use on my Europa. Is it as elegant as Tony's
solution? Certainly not--the man is rapidly becoming either the
Benvenuto Cellini or maybe the Karl Faberge' of Europas. But I'd rather
spend the hours Tony spent on his pip pin covers building something more
vital--or (gasp!) maybe even flying my Europa that much sooner.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | frederic.perissinotto(at)ping.be (perissinotto frederic) |
| Subject: | Re: zinc-cromate |
hello
This is the first time I post a request, I apologize for my poor English spoken.
I 've bought an unfinished kit and I 'm starting.
First, is there some french people using this forum?
second, I have a few liters of zinc-cromate paint which is expired. What
will happens if I used it (poor grip or poor corrossion properties ?)
Thank
fred
PERISSINOTTO FREDERIC
209 RUE LEON BLUM
4101 SERAING
BELGIUM
TEL/FAX 32 42331304
frederic perissinotto(at)ping.be
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Pip pin hole covers |
wrote:
> I've been reading the various methods people are using to cover the pip
> pin holes in the stabs. I'm awed at some builders' ingenuity and
> industriousness--Tony's plumbing fittings are particularly nifty.
>
> Just a thought, through, from a (lazy) old sailplane pilot. Many of our
> glass birds have various and sundry fittings here and there, not to
> mention the long joins where wings plug into the fuselage, etc., and
> since we traditionally rig and derig a lot more often than "Europeans,"
> we just use stretchy white vinyl tape, available from various and sundry
> gliding suppliers, etc. Sometimes we leave it on for days or even weeks
> at a time (if we're lucky enough to avoid landing out in some wretched
> paddock and having to derig).
>
> It's what I plan to use on my Europa. Is it as elegant as Tony's
> solution? Certainly not--the man is rapidly becoming either the
> Benvenuto Cellini or maybe the Karl Faberge' of Europas. But I'd rather
> spend the hours Tony spent on his pip pin covers building something more
> vital--or (gasp!) maybe even flying my Europa that much sooner.
I cannot claim originality for the use of plumbing fittings, the idea came from
someone (and I cannot remember who) on this group. My only claim to fame is that
I
actually found some pieces that work and came up with a clean and easy way of implementing
it.
Now, I must get back to the inlaid eggs :-)
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 01/20/97
Time: 08:26:47 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ROBERT J. HENDERSON" <hose(at)flinet.com> |
We assemble a nylon hose (similar to air hose) for a special (patent
pending) application. We are seeking sources of nylon 11 tubing, mandrels
and private labeling equipment. Any information you can provide will be
most helpful.
Thank you.
R.J. Henderson, VP
Hydrakoil Industries, Inc.
681 Broadview Drive
Boca Raton, Florida 33431
(561) 395-9637
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: zinc-cromate |
Salut--
Malgre' que je suis amerlocque, je vais tenter de repondre en francais
(sans accents sur cet ordinateur americain).
Si il s'agit seulement de quelques litres de cromate de zinc, il ne
vaut probablement le peine de l'utiliser avec les possibilites de
problemes. Jetez-le; enfin c'est pas si cher.
bonne chance!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Is there anyone nearer to North Hertfordshire than Kirkbymoorside
out there who has one of the standard rear loading types of
trailers which we could come and measure up?
Thanks in advance.
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
I recall from a while back that some people have used a special
German "Gel coat" type of paint as is somretimes used on
sailplanes.
Can someone further enlighten me about this stuff?
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Pip pin hole covers |
In message <32E2550B.4C81(at)montrose.net>, "Peter S. Lert"
writes
>stretchy white vinyl tape,
Use it on mine - can hardly see it against the paint finish!
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Outrigger Latch Trimming |
>
>I just got through setting up the outriggers and I have an uneasy feeling
>that I should have been a little more careful in grinding away the step on
>OR4 to fit. I ground off a little at a time until the step would just slip
>past the pawl (OR7A) with a mil or 2 clearance. Then, once it slipped past
>and latched, a gap would open up because of the angle of OR7A which would
>cause considerable play in the fully latched outrigger leg. I resolved that
>the second one would be a better fit and was more careful, but to my dismay,
>it came out exactly the same! Well, at least they match!
>
>Slipping in a feeler gage in between the step of OR4 and the latching surface
>of OR7A sufficient to remove all of the play, I find that in both legs the
>gap is .028" when the flap is fully extended and the OR latched. This seems
>like a lot of free play, especially out at the wheel end. How about it,
>guys, is this too much and should I start again? Has anybody else gaged this
>clearance?
>
>Also, I found it necessary to grind the spring attach end of OR4 to get
>clearance with the wing undersurface while extending the flaps and gear.
> This should be done sparingly--the result should be a straight line parallel
>to the wing undersurface and with no more than 1 mm clearance with the wing.
> Grind too much and you end up with too much play when in the gear up
>position. How do I know this? Heh. Ah well, I guess that I can build it up
>again with weld and then grind it right this time. :-(
>
>Now, if I could just do this all over again, I KNOW that I could get it
>right!
>
>TIA for sharing any insights.
>
>Pops
>US#A36
>
>
>
Your clearance of.028" is O.K. The geometry requires an "overcentre" to
stop vibration, shock loads, etc. from collapsing the outrigger mechanism.
This overcentre does give clearance of the order you have measured, so you
did it right.
However the bit on the top that you have ground away should have been left
on, since its purpose is to keep the leg from dangling down when in the
retracted position. Instread of removing this upper "cam" it is necessary
to remove a small section of the lower close out skin, just wide enough to
accommodate the OR4.
Regards,
Roger Bull
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Turner <100113.2571(at)compuserve.com> |
Richard,
>> Is there anyone nearer to North Hertfordshire than Kirkbymoorside
out there who has one of the standard rear loading types of
trailers which we could come and measure up? <<
Don't know whereabouts in North Herts you are (we're Ashwell, between
Royston & Baldock, also with 01462 tel. no. - thank heavens for global
communications ). But just wondered if you'd tried Gransden Lodge -
lotsa gliders there, many living in trailers, tho confess I don't know
whether glider trailers and potential Europa trailers are one and the same.
Hope that helps.
T.T.
Motoring with OzWin 2.10 (g3)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pip pin hole covers |
In a message dated 21/01/97 01:12:06, you write:
>>stretchy white vinyl tape<<,
Brilliant idea lads and so simple, ....PFA approval ??
Surplus juice lids available....
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: That gel coat paint |
There are several gel coat formulations available, but I am told that the only
one worth using is Schwabelac, hard to find but Slingsby Aviation might be able
to supply it.
Application requires considerable skill. More than with paint, I suspect.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan.wilkinson" <aa4bwi(at)zen.sunderland.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel cap locks , CAA |
On 13 Jan 1997, Duncan McFadyean wrote:
> Re the locking fuel caps, is possible to leave the fuel cap in an unlocked
> condition for flight?
> The CAA don`t like locked caps; probably because the fire services just love
to
> fill your tanks with foam at the least provocation!
If so , very stupid :0 - point of locking caps is anti - tampering ;
)
Perhaps a CAA spokes - person can comment ?
Happy flying , Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
A Heads Up . . . .
A reader contacted me late last week asking about the
suitabilty of Mil-W-5086 wire in his project . . .
seems he stumbled across a supply of this wire as
surplus roll ends from a CURRENT military production
contract.
I haven't heard that number tossed around in years. This
WAS one of the wire types we used back in the 60's but
I seemed to recall that it was obsoleted when Mil-W-22759
and it's other "tef" cousins came on line. I've researched
the specification and my recollection is correct . . . the
specs were obsoleted about 1983 and prohibited use on any
new aerospace application.
Now . . . 5086 wire is basically PVC insulated. It comes with
several combinations of pvc primary, fiberglas braid and can
include a nylon over-jacket. There's another wire of that
era known as Mil-W-16878 type B which is very similar.
The wire is rated at much lower temperatures (typically
105-120C) than modern wires. It's also subject to loss of
plasticizers which makes the outer nylon jacket subject to
cracking. The stuff is still found in thousands of Cessnas
flying around out there but hey . . . . even if the wire
was free, the impact to total cost for using modern wire
versus PVC on your project is trivial.
I recommend the older wire styles be avoided even if they're
FREE . . .
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: That gel coat paint |
In message <970121221428_100421.2123_JHU33-1(at)CompuServe.COM>, Graham
Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> writes
>Application requires considerable skill. More than with paint, I suspect.
It's also very hard , so considerable finishing may be required if it
doesn't go on too smoothly. It finally needs waxing using a power
polisher. Gary McKirdy on 01295 788526 did at one of the meetings give
out a telephone number of where it can be bought it reasonably small
quantities.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Duncan McFadyean <101234.3202(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: fuel cap locks , CAA |
But if you unlock your caps for flight only, whose going to tamper with them up
there? Lock them again on the ground.
Part of the CAA`s hatred was, I think, to do with not having uncertified locking
caps on certified planes when in flight; you had to change them prior to
takeoff. Doesn`t necessarily apply to us permit-types of course.
Duncan McFadyean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Round Pip Pin Holes |
Graham,
I wasnt able to find 3/4" pipe end fittings when I looked. Can you get ones
in the UK that have a hexagonal headed PVC end cap with a male, extern
thread of 3/4"? I have been able to cut it down a fair bit to achieve the
goal, and there is more I can take off it yet.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
The Aussie Connection
>Tony R,
>The pip pin holes needn't be more than 3/4" IMHO. I will have to ask Gernot for
>more details, I want to make his tool for myself anyway.
>Graham
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Donald Ingram" <Pdingram(at)interaccess.com> |
Would somebody educate me about the advantages and disadvantages of a
single wheel landing gear? How safe it it? How can you maintain your
level taxiing? What keeps the prop out of the runway when you put the
brake on?
Thanks.
Don Ingram
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: single wheel? |
In message <199701260254.UAA26715(at)mcfeely.interaccess.com>, Donald
Ingram writes
>Would somebody educate me about the advantages and disadvantages of a
>single wheel landing gear?
"What are the advantages and disadvantages of tri-gear against
taildragger?" is the starting point - answer that one and you are partly
there if you add in the balance between the advantages and
diasadvantages of a retractable. As far as the Europa is concerned I
suspect, but do not know for sure,that the main disadvantage of the
retractable main gear may be a need to adjust the bungee tension - but
that's only because I want to spend my time flying the thing rather than
messing with it - even if it is only necessary as infrequently as once a
year or whatever.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RonSwinden(at)aol.com |
Sat 25th inst as they say Martin Stoner flew G-BWWB No 80 on its first
flight Michael Dolphin ( the Very proud owner) flew off the two hour bit
early today and Martin wrapped up the final bits of the test schedule.
No probs, just big smiles all round.
Ron S No 33
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: single wheel? |
>>"What are the advantages and disadvantages of tri-gear against
taildragger?"<<
Taildraggers (fixed gear) are always faster than trigears, (fixed gear) other
things being equal.
Four of us old Long EZ drivers recycled many litres of ale discussing the above
and concluded that:-
1 it was easier to retract a single wheel,
2 one big wheel has less rolling drag than two smaller ones
3 gliders, which are demonstrably more efficient than most other flying
machines, do it that way so maybe they know something we don't.
Lockheed U2s do it too. OTH remember the old B47 and B52? Maybe they knew
somethiong too. And the Harrier. I once saw film of a Harrier recovering from a
ginormous attempt at a ground loop at what must have been over 120 kts.
The position of the wheel with reference to the CG is such that braking can be
quite positive with little risk of tipping up and hitting the prop. The con to
that is that if you land before the aeroplane thinks you should you will bounce.
Cure is make sure the stick is hard on the stop before allowing her to land.
I have yet to hear of anyone having to adjust the bungies.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: single wheel? |
In a message dated 26/01/97 19:58:58, you write:
>>main disadvantage of the retractable main gear may be a need to adjust the
bungee tension<<
For "may" read "will" in my experience, (and it hasn't flown yet).
There must be a coil spring or gas-strut system which could supply the
necessary urge.
One of the advantages of the monowheel; might be the possibility of spinning
it up before landing, to avoid that expensive groinch on hard runways. The
wheel has to get up to around 900 rpm before it stops skidding at landing
speed. A drum of a quarter of the wheel diameter in contact with the tyre
would therefore need to run up to 3600 rpm to pre-spin it. As long as it has
enough torque to overcome static friction, it can take its time over it, so a
high energy input rate is not required. Pity there isn't room for scoops on
the side of the wheel or it would do part of the job itself. -or get
Michelin- man to cast a scoop-type tread.
Now for the light relief - shouldn't be difficult to convert the passenger
pedals for the power input - make them pay for the drag they contribute -
provides excercise during long flights, emergency generator ?, shorten take
off runs ! and who knows, eventually woman-powered flight.
BTW after the car-top take-off at Kemble, will the lads down there try it
with a Europa and let us know the result. I have a friend who is a servo
engineer and reckons that there is enough guidance technology around to
reverse the trick and land that way.
Away with the u/c altogether, - saves a lot of wheels on a jumbo, though
you'd need more than a Landrover.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | RonSwinden(at)aol.com |
In further discussions with Mike D he made the point that the fuel guage(as
standard) was less than usefull. Does anyone have good alternatives please
or can it be modified to the point that it reliable/useful if so how??
please. Ron S No 33
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Reliable Fuel gauge |
>>the fuel gauge (as standard) was less than useful<<
How about this:-
Install a straight clear plastic tube vertically behind each headrest from
almost the bottom of the tank) to the top of the fuselage where it vents.
Each carries a float at the bottom and a wire running upwards to a pointer in
the calibrated visible section.
Needs petrol proof seals in the top of the tank, perhaps screw type hose
fittings.
If you really want to carry golf clubs, it might be possible to make the
visible sections removable upwards using 0-ring seals top and bottom and
seal the floats down while you load up.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | le fuel gauge Pt.2- (more complicated) |
Add alu. strips on opposite sides of the tubes, and with a metal rod for the
float repeater you have a linear capacitance gauge, and you can still see it
for when your electronics fail.
For "WW2" output, a meter in the bridge will do, but A-D it into your
on-board computer and you can have Euro2000 output ----- storage, flow rate,
total consumption, alarms, the lot.
Tell me when you've done it, must get back to re-fitting that u/c frame ---
sigh.....
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
<< Have you thought ??? Seriously, there are battery
powered socks available from some sporting goods
outlets that use about 5-10 watts per sock. Hunters
use ni-cad packs to power them. A simple interface
would let you power from ships d.c. power. >>
>>Here in our harsh So. Cal. winters, our open cockpit
pilots (ultralight-type, Baby Aces, etc.) use a heated
vest that is plugged into 12 volts.<<
Here's an opportunity for someone to be immortalized in
print by doing an article on relatively low-power, keep-
warm accessories. Trying to heat the whole cockpit
electrically can be very hard if not impossible.
Further, it seems that when you are sitting relatively
motionless for long periods of time, it's difficult to
keep warm with simple layering of garments . . . but
specific application of electric heat to body parts
reduces electrical system loads and allows the cookee
to adjust the cooker to his/her personal preference.
If someone would do the legwork in finding out what kind
of products are out there and what they cost, I'd be
happy to help with the writing . . .
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552(at)compuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham E Laucht <graham(at)ukavid.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Keeping warm . . . |
In message <970129212833_72770.552_HHS38-1(at)CompuServe.COM>, "Robert L.
Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> writes
>
>If someone would do the legwork in finding out what kind
>of products are out there and what they cost, I'd be
>happy to help with the writing . . .
OK, but if this turns into one of those awful shopping mall channels I
will switch off.
Though rare in scrapyards, you could always go out and steal one but
Volvo car and truck drivers have the luxury of a heated pad embedded in
the seat cushions. In Birmingham there is an outfit called Fletcher's
that buys up excess car industry "waste" and every now and then they
have a few dozen in stock. Very thin polyester film and consuming about
2 amps they could be formed into leg warmers, something to fit around
the small of the back, even into an electric turban. The last lot cost
about 3 pounds per panel.
It's my knees that go first, I've taken to flying with a long scarf
wrapped round each, so geriatric. My next plane will need stowage for a
Zimmer frame at this rate.
--
Graham E Laucht
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Burrill <100014.411(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Keeping warm . . . |
Being a two wheeled enthusiast, a biker, as well as a mono-wheel enthusiast,
Europa, I'm sitting here with the January Copy of a magazine which has an
article already written on Motorcycle heated clothing.
For the princly sum of L55 you can heat your tootsies.
Heated waistcoats come a bit more expensive at L80 to L160
Gloves for about L40 and even heated 'grips' for the stick at about L40 to L60
All designed to work from a 12 volt system.
If you find yourself a copy of January 'Ride' magazine, it's not aviation
orientated but it'll sure give you some ideas.
Alan
Kit 303
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: First flight |
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
>In further discussions with Mike D he made the point that the fuel guage(as
>standard) was less than usefull. Does anyone have good alternatives please
>or can it be modified to the point that it reliable/useful if so how??
>please. Ron S No 33
Ron,
Refer to the mail a while back entitled DANGER C*** fuel system.
We have installed a properly calibrated capacitance gauge for the
dash and a nice simple mechanical gauge (Aircraft spruce) which goes
in our fuel tank inspection hole cover. It sits under a little
cover between the headrests. We have no sight gauge at all.
PS Not flight tested yet.....
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D Pitt <davepitt(at)netvigator.com> |
I am enguiring whether you or others can supply details of Europa
aircraft for sale, either completed or nearly completed? Will be
returning to UK from overseas and want a quick start.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Miles,
Would you mind elaborating how you placed these skids in relation to the
normal glass skin work? Did you place them ontop? This sounds like a great
idea though.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
The Aussie Connection
>
>Wingtip skids: 2"X6" inserted into bottom surface just outboard and forward
>of the aileron, held in place with 3 screws in case it needs to be replaced.
>Prevents the need to mix up more resin and paint when an outrigger fails to
>perform. Sailplanes use wood, but as I stumbled across some titanium stock.....
>
>All the best
>
>Miles
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: taildragger gear |
I'm sorry that no-one really rose to the bait of discussing a conventional
taildragger Europa.... however, I have been informed that a Swiss and French
builder have combined to do exactly that: details are scarce at the moment,
but I believe that it includes carbon legs and tailwheel spring, a smaller
tailwheel, a 10 gal aux tank where the mainwheel used to be, and about a 20
lb weight saving. Aerodynamic analysis suggests that drag should be about
the same. More details when they arrive...
My feeling is that it might make ground handling easier, but it will reduce
the rough field capability -something some people feel that they won't
really use, so fair enough.
All the best,
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Skids |
>Miles,
>Would you mind elaborating how you placed these skids in relation to the
>normal glass skin work? Did you place them ontop? This sounds like a great
>idea though.
>>
>>Wingtip skids: 2"X6" inserted into bottom surface just outboard and forward
>>of the aileron, held in place with 3 screws in case it needs to be replaced.
>>Prevents the need to mix up more resin and paint when an outrigger fails to
>>perform. Sailplanes use wood, but as I stumbled across some titanium
stock.....
Actually doing them at the moment: 2 mm Titanium stock fabricated 8" X 2", 2
holes drilled and countersunk at the 1/3rd and 2/3rd stations, and a curve
rolled onto them (requires quite some force: Titanium has a very strong
"memory") a little greater than the curve of the wing where they are
located: the center then stands about 1mm proud. This is mated to thin ali
stock with a couple of rivnuts or captive nuts, and the ali plate glued to
the foam in a rebate cut out so that the fore and aft ends of the skid
plates are flush with the foam's surface. The foam is then tapered down over
about 1/2" to the ali plate to provide a transition for the glass skin which
is laid in top (ali plates are alodyned to provide good bonding, and the
rivnuts/captive nuts filled with wax to protect the threads during bonding.
The Titanium plates will then be waxed, placed in position over the wing
skin, and the faired to the wing bottom skin and tips with flox and filler:
this should leave the center portion just slightly proud. final assembly
will be with silicon RTV as an adhesive, a couple of CSK CRS screws to keep
it from falling out, and a coat of paint to hide it...
Hope this helps.
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Ed Dix <eddix(at)ix.netcom.com> |
Check out this site!!! newhomesearch.com...then call or email for more
info.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Keeping warm . . . |
In a message dated 29/01/97 23:57:26, you write:
>taken to flying with a long scarf wrapped round each<
The backup altimeter again !
What's your Zimmer frame rate BTW ?
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Bean <72016.641(at)compuserve.com> |
Andy,
Thank you for your coments on the 'net' from my latest queries, they helped.
More so your few words on the telephone last week that sorted out a problem with
my wings that I had been worring about for some time. On cheching with the
information you gave me I found that my stbd wing tip is possibly the culpret in
that I have fitted it slightly skewed. I have enough scrap bits of foam to make
another which will hopefully solve the difficulty of the flap and aileron not
aligning in a straight line along the trailing edge. I only hope then, after the
aileron has a new nuteral, that there is enough aileron travel before the
counterweight contacts the inner wing upper skin!!
I have been 'off line' for a month or so as my computer threw a wobbly and is
supposed to have had a new mother board fitted - I have my doubts though!
When I get to the workshop all is progressing well.
Take care all
John Bean
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Burrill <100014.411(at)compuserve.com> |
Being a two wheeled enthusiast, a biker, as well as a mono-wheel enthusiast,
Europa, I'm sitting here with the January Copy of a magazine which has an
article already written on Motorcycle heated clothing.
For the princly sum of GBP55 you can heat your tootsies.
Heated waistcoats come a bit more expensive at GBP80 to GBP160
Gloves for about GBP40 and even heated 'grips' for the stick at about GBP40 to
GBP60
All designed to work from a 12 volt system. and using about 30Watt for the
waistcoats to about 20Watt for the socks and gloves. They are warm!
Most are lighweight so they can fit under Motorcycle leathers.
If you find yourself a copy of January 'Ride' magazine, it's not aviation
orientated but it'll sure give you some ideas.
Alan
Kit 303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: taildragger gear |
I believe the Glass (with a small amount of Carbon) legs are those used on
the MCR01 - BanBI.
I could get them if anyone wanted to go down that route. However I suspect
there would be considerable effort convincing the PFA they were suitable,
until such times that the swiss solution was proven.
Jerry
Flying Hi - Wish I was
http://avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Stewart <alans(at)kbss.bt.co.uk> |
| Subject: | rcom Installation problem |
Anyone out there with experience with aircraft electrical installation might
know the answer to this one.
I have a 912 Europa, flying happily now thanks, and I'm currently working
through all the teething troubles you normally encounter in the first few
hours of use.
I have Flightcom 403D Intercom and Flightcom Eclipse voice activated headsets.
I can't get the mic. voice channel to de-activate at high revs (4500 +), due
'engine noise'. Except of course, it's not 'sound pressure' noise, because
it only happens on 'both' magnetos, not 'left' or 'right'. Naturally, I've
tried all 'squelch' positions, and increased/reduced the mic. gain.
I've decided it's 'induced' into the mike circuit, from the a/c ignition and
I was wondering if anyone else has had similar problems with this or related
equipment.
There IS shielding round the mic. circuit but it's not connected to the a/c
ground because the installation guide suggests you shouldn't.
Should I try additional noise supression round the magnetos, spark plug h/t
leads ?
Should I increase the shielding round the mic circuit ?
Should I ground the mic shielding ?
I'd be grateful for any suggestions, as this is the sort of problem which
can take months to isolate.
Regards,
Alan Stewart (BWFX). Daytime 01473-605304 Eve. 01245-264186 (Ans)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Washout errors... |
>What do you recommend the incidence should be a 70 percent of span? As
there is washout it can't be the
>same as the root incidence given in the manual.
>
>
>Tony
>
>
<100421.2123(at)CompuServe.COM> wrote:
>> >> there is a small unwanted error in the washout of the wing leading edges<<
>> Since none of us can guarantee exactly equal wings, this is what I am now
>> advising everyone to do.
>> Build the wings as per normal, trying to keep them as straight as
possible, then
>> make a template to give you a level at 70% span. When you set the
incidence, (&
>> bond on the lift pin sockets,) Make the incidence of each wing the same
at 70%
>> span, not at the root. I might be tempted to guess a slight deflection to
>> counteract engine torque, but no more than .1 degrees. The extra incidence on
>> one side at the root will have little effect on roll trim.
>> Credit for this tip should go to Tim Dewes, who I believe isn't on here.
He's a
>> glider repairer and inspector.
>> Graham
>
If you do as Graham suggests, which is a good way of averaging out any
deviations from the theoretical washout, then the washout at 70% chord
should be 70% of 1.5=B0, i.e. 1.05=B0. This would be subtracted from the root
incidence of 2.5=B0, giving an incidence at 70% of, say, 1.4=B0 to 1.5=B0.
Regards
Roger Bull
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
A couple of thoughts-
1.) Standard practice in most audio applications is to ground shielding
at _one end only_ to prevent formation of so-called "ground loops."
Ideally, all the shielding should be grounded at the same end, typically
the engine or aircraft ground while allowing the shield to "float" out
at the headphone and mic jacks.
2.) Check to see if the p-leads--the ones from the ignition units to the
"mag" switch--are shielded. If not, shield 'em. Keep all your audio
leads as far away from that switch as you can.
good luck!
psl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John O'Connor" <OCONNORJ(at)btmaa.bel.alcatel.be> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to europa |
I posted this a week and a half ago when I signed up on the list.
However, it bounced then. Perhaps I posted it before the list had
processed me as a member. But as I seem to have been receiving
messages for a while, I shall have another go at introducing myself:
My earlier message:
majordomo said:
> If you do decide to subscribe, please send a note to the europa(at)avnet.co.uk
> address introducing yourself and tell everyone what your interest in the
> europa is. Whether you have started building or when you intend to start.
Whatever the major says. :-)
I'm John O'Connor. If we get good weather at the weekend, I
shall do my last half hours Instrument flying and then some
revision on Saturday. Then comes the GFT on Sunday. (Wish me
luck.)
If that all goes well, I shall sit down and start to decide
what do about an aircraft. A kit is high up on the list.
(I've built a boat so an aircraft has to be next.) Of the
kits, the Europa seems very attractive. Partly because I
already own two Europas and may well drive one of them to
the airfield at the weekend if it is dry. :-)
Rather than bug you guys, is there an FAQ?
John
Well, there is no need to wish me luck, but congrats happily received. So,
the aircraft has now moved one step up the ladder of importance.
John
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to europa |
In message <6702001704021997/A35355/BTMV97/11B224400200*@MHS>, John
O'Connor writes
> So,
>the aircraft has now moved one step up the ladder of importance.
Welcome and keep it moving John - you won't regret it!
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Bryan" <kenbryan(at)bluechip.ie> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to europa |
Find out how difficult it is to land (and fly) before you part with your
hard earned cash -
how many completed Europas have been for sale ?
rumours are not good..
regards,,
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
Whilst I have been away skiing, there has been some discussion regarding the
various alternative Pip Pin covering options. One of the final suggestions
was to use a white tape as per used on gliders. I cannot fault the
simplicity and cheapness of this method, but IMHO it does lack one
ingredient, that of peace of mind through redundancy, i.e. if the pips fail
in the pins, the more elaborate type of cover will stil retain the pins.
I suggested some time ago (but did not elaborate on) the use of plastic
water pipes and screw fittings as available in most hardware stores,
suitably turned in a lathe to make them flush fittings. The most commonly
available type is 1.5inch or 40mm. This will need the top mouldings of the
plug turned down and some of the circumference. The female part will also
need its top inside edge recessed to allow the plug inside.
The fitting can then be set into the tailplane, offset in relation to the
pip pin, which will allow a smaller (keyring) ring to be left on the pin.
To remove the cap I made a tool which is a short length of .5inch dowel,
groved each side at the bottom to accept two short lengths of 1/16inch wire,
which is bound with cotton and covered with 5 min epoxy. Two holes are then
drilled in the cap to match the tool and you then have a nice, lightweight,
flush pip pin cover. A couple of spare opening tools can be made up and put
on the keyring or in the headrest hole, etc. (An alternative tool could be
made from a piece of sheet metal into the shape of a regular key, but with
two prongs on the end as above.
Hope this is of use to someone,.....Dave Watts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pip Pin Covers |
In a message dated 04/02/97 19:47:53, you write:
>the more elaborate type of cover will still retain the pins<
Sure, but Europa use air, ( in a suction area too) so presumably don't
believe this is a possibility. Might be if you fly inverted (contrary to the
operating manual). Your elegant solution will be find for new builders but
difficult to implement for those of us with the standard aperture all nicely
painted. So its about turn for me to the reel of tape instead of the apple
juice lids (which did fit the hole) but stood proud by 2mm.. Wonder if the
tape needs PFA approval ?- the lids did !.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to europa |
In a message dated 04/02/97 19:22:40, you write:
>Find out how difficult it is to land (and fly)
Take heart from this.... a nearby building team (who must remain nameless)
were doing taxying trials when they "inadvertently found themselves
committed to a first flight". They got it back on the ground after a circuit
without any problem, though they hadn't quite the nerve to raise the u/c
during the action. They do say you should take a map with you when doing
taxying trials.
G.C
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Pip Pin Covers |
In message <199702041936.TAA26768(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk>, David Watts
writes
>if the pips fail
>in the pins, the more elaborate type of cover will stil retain the pins.
I seem to recall that you are not supposed to fly upside dowN?!??
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to europa |
In message <199702041912.TAA25501(at)indigo.ie>, Ken Bryan
writes
>how many completed Europas have been for sale ? NOT SO MANY
>rumours are not good.. SO YOU ADD ANOTHER ONE - NICE ONE!
OH AND BTW, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO POST ME A LIST OF ALL THE OTHER GROUPS
WHOSE TIME YOU WASTE - WHY SHOULD YOU BE THE ONLY ONE TO HAVE SOME FUN.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Bryan" <kenbryan(at)bluechip.ie> |
to Rolf Muller
No offence meant, my comments were quite serious and were intended to start
a discussion,
Speak to some people flying Europas.
Regards,,
________________________________________________________________________________
Guten Tag Ich hoffe Ich bin bei Ihnen an der Richtigen Adresse.Da Ich im
Kartsport Taetig bin und einen Rotaxmotor fahre hoffe ich das Sie mir
eventuell ein parr Aufkleber bzw. Aufnaeher fuer mein Kart/Rennanzug haben da
es bald mit den Rennen fuer 97 beginnt.Ich bitte Sie mich mit diesem kleinem
Gefallen zu unterstuetzen.Vielen Dank
im voraus.
Dietmar Nowak In der Breite 89
79224 Umkirch
Deutschland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Luc JOB <luc.job(at)lmc.dmx.epfl.ch> |
| Subject: | Re: taildragger gear |
Europas in taildragger configuration.
They bought a main gear leg of MCR-01 to replace the mono-wheel.
These parts need modifications/adaptations in order to fit the Europa. These
legs are designed to be used only with the carbon wheels mounted on the
MCR-01 (very light... and $$$) , with a drum brake system.
The potentially good news is that we are now in the process to
complete a prototype composite gear leg designed for the Europa. This
landing gear will be easier to fit under the plane than the MCR-01 leg and
is designed to accomodate standard MATCO wheels with disk brakes...
We plan to end the tests during next month and have the Swiss
approuval soon after (not depending of us)...
We will market a kit for the modification once everything is
finished. Not before...
I'm curious about the number of potientially interested people by a
retrofit/modification kit based on this leg... This will ease our production
planning and price calculation...
We won't do any advertising until everything is set for
production... In order to avoid unhappy customers and unreasonable shipping
delays...
Thanks... This message must be taken as an information more than a
commercial Ad. I prefer to be honest by explaining what we intend to do than
saying that somebody else at the same address is planning to sell a
taildragger conversion kit...
We can be contacted at:
Aerodiffusion Fax: +41 21 8878075
Le Chatelard Email: luc.job(at)lmc.dmx.epfl.ch
CH-1044 FEY
Switzerland
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Steven A Eberhart <newtech(at)newtech.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rolf Muller - Europa |
On Wed, 5 Feb 1997, Ken Bryan wrote:
> to Rolf Muller
> No offence meant, my comments were quite serious and were intended to start
> a discussion,
> Speak to some people flying Europas.
> Regards,,
>
I didn't keep the original post that referred to the handling
characteristics of the Europa but I remember feeling that the comments
made were what I would expect to see on rec.aviation.homebuilt i.e. a
little bit of fact sourounded bu a lot of supposition from a low time or
no time pilot. I am a low time pilot, 43 hours over 25 years ago and
only 2 1/2 current hours. The 1/2 hour was in the Lakeland, FL.
demonstrator G-ELSA. I was so totally impressed with the Europa that I
was immediately stricken with Europaitis and have to have one.
Every airplane design has its own pecularities and the Europa is no
exception. If you feel that the landing and takeoff characteristics of
the Europa are dangerous then the tandem gear Europa might not be the
plane for you... get the Tri-Gear version, its a pussy cat with few vices.
Back in my 43 hours I spent 4 hours of dual in a Citabria. If you think
that you can ignore landing speeds, technique and attidude then I hope you
have the extra cash to buy a new prop ;-). Talk to people that have flown
the plane and fly one yourself before you start forming a judgement.
Now that I have said all of this I will express my views on the Europa.
I think the flying characteristics are so good that they set a new
standard of excellence for all aircraft to be compaired against. Here in
the US the soft field performance of the tandem gear is not as great a
feature as it is in the UK. I would like to see a conventional gear
version that uses an arrangement similar to the Van RV aircraft. I can't
imagine a more perfect airplane, for my purposes, than a Europa with
conventional gear, minimum VFR compliment of gauges but with a single LCD
display panel right in the middle of the panel and the BMW Boxer engine.
Sure I would like to see pre molded wing and tail skins but the wet layup
construction does form a nice solid structure.
Not intended to be a flame thrower just a small candel.
Steve Eberhart
newtech(at)newtech.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Rolf Muller - Europa |
Steve,
Thanks for your posting... My situation is nearly the same as yours. Low
time pilot (30 hrs. from a couple years ago). Its good to hear from a
limited-experience pilot who has flown the Europa.
The "perfect airplane" configuration you describe sounds great, except, I
would keep the monowheel to land on the plains of Nebraska and Wyoming.
Jon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
In message <970205101201_2092966150(at)emout04.mail.aol.com>,
INowak(at)aol.com writes
>Ich hoffe Ich bin bei Ihnen an der Richtigen Adresse
Tut mir leid - wir bauen alle Flugzeuge!*!
:-)
MfG
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Rolf Muller - Europa |
In message <199702051508.PAA16236(at)indigo.ie>, Ken Bryan
writes
>Speak to some people flying Europas.
Well I have done - John Tye, Martin Stoner,Graham Singleton and one or
two more. Best thing for anyone to do who is contemplating buying one is
to go fly one - easy in the UK - Kirkbymoorside will oblige I'm sure.
Anyway at least I'll find out for myself in the next week or so - let
you know.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denys.Gover" <Denys.Gover(at)aph.gov.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Rolf Muller - Europa |
Steven A Eberhart wrote:
>
> On Wed, 5 Feb 1997, Ken Bryan wrote:
>
> > to Rolf Muller
> > No offence meant, my comments were quite serious and were intended to start
> > a discussion,
> > Speak to some people flying Europas.
> > Regards,,
> >
>
> I didn't keep the original post that referred to the handling
> characteristics of the Europa but I remember feeling that the comments
> made were what I would expect to see on rec.aviation.homebuilt i.e. a
> little bit of fact sourounded bu a lot of supposition from a low time or
> no time pilot. I am a low time pilot, 43 hours over 25 years ago and
> only 2 1/2 current hours. The 1/2 hour was in the Lakeland, FL.
> demonstrator G-ELSA. I was so totally impressed with the Europa that I
> was immediately stricken with Europaitis and have to have one.
>
> Every airplane design has its own pecularities and the Europa is no
> exception. If you feel that the landing and takeoff characteristics of
> the Europa are dangerous then the tandem gear Europa might not be the
> plane for you... get the Tri-Gear version, its a pussy cat with few vices.
> Back in my 43 hours I spent 4 hours of dual in a Citabria. If you think
> that you can ignore landing speeds, technique and attidude then I hope you
> have the extra cash to buy a new prop ;-). Talk to people that have flown
> the plane and fly one yourself before you start forming a judgement.
>
> Now that I have said all of this I will express my views on the Europa.
> I think the flying characteristics are so good that they set a new
> standard of excellence for all aircraft to be compaired against. Here in
> the US the soft field performance of the tandem gear is not as great a
> feature as it is in the UK. I would like to see a conventional gear
> version that uses an arrangement similar to the Van RV aircraft. I can't
> imagine a more perfect airplane, for my purposes, than a Europa with
> conventional gear, minimum VFR compliment of gauges but with a single LCD
> display panel right in the middle of the panel and the BMW Boxer engine.
> Sure I would like to see pre molded wing and tail skins but the wet layup
> construction does form a nice solid structure.
>
> Not intended to be a flame thrower just a small candel.
>
> Steve Eberhart
> newtech(at)newtech.com
>
Good on you Steven. I suspect this guy has some barrow to push. It is a
wonder he did not say which aircraft kit is better or which kit
supplier/aircraft company he is working for.
Denys Gover
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
Ivan and I flew GK Whip today with the new cowling and cooling system I've been
designing. Single radiator and cleaned up behind the propeller. The object is to
reduce the cooling drag and interference behind the prop of the old system. The
inlet area of the standard system is about 60 sq inches. The new one lets in
about 24 sq ins. and the radiator is 45 sq ins. It works, I'm delighted to say,
Not all the air goes through the rad because I was nervous about removing the
heat from the exhaust system and also ducted 8 sq ins to the cylinder fins. All
of that was inspired guesswork so you can imagine how pleased I am that it
confirms all the assumptions. I suspect the rad could be even smaller.
Confirmation also came from comparison with Michel Colombin's BanBi (produced as
the MCR01 kit) which is very impressive.
We aren't seeing much performance improvement yet but that will come with
refinement I'm sure. One big advantage, though is the view over the nose :-)
Actually got some praise from our leader for that (!:-)
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: taildragger gear |
>> For the moment 2 Swiss builders are in the process to modify their
Europas in taildragger configuration.<<
Fascinated to hear about the modification. I wonder a bit if the MCR01 gear leg
is strong enough for the extra weight of a Europa. Very impressed with the
aircraft though. I was lucky to be shown round it by Christoph Robin last week.
Just dissappointed we couldn't fly in the Dijon fog.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Rolf Muller - Europa |
>> My situation is nearly the same as yours. Low
time pilot (30 hrs. from a couple years ago). Its good to hear from a
limited-experience pilot who has flown the Europa.<<
Low time isn't necessarily a disadvantage. I had to unlearn 10 years of easy
(EZ) flying before I was (hopefully) safe in a Europa or any other airplane.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
I was messing around with setting the UC lever range, getting the
flaps & outriggers to do their thing Etc. the other day and wondered
if others have noticed a problem we seem to have with the slot in
OR5.
In the normal course of events:
Flap up, the pin which runs in the slot in OR5 is at one extreme of
the slot and this location sets the up position of the outrigger.
Flap moving down, the pin rides up the slot a bit until the spring
overcomes the latch, it then returns until the outrigger is fully
down when it rides up the slot a bit to give the flap free
movement.
However. if the latch sticks a bit, or the outrigger is a bit
stiff (gets bashed or something) or if the spring should break, then
the pin should simply ride to the far extreme of the slot and then
pull the latch and it all returns to normal. The problem is that we
get to 27 deg flap just before (c. 2mm) the pin gets to the end of
the slot, and thus in this case it won't lock down - the slot is a
bit too long. It would seem that what could apparently be a fairly
failsafe arrangement will not work in our case.
Have others noticed this or is it just us? It can be tweaked by
making new OR5's with a slightly shorter slot.
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | KERRJOHNA(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to europa |
Interested in the questioning comment about difficulty in flying/landing the
europa and the number for sale after completion.
For those of us considering the europa as a (next) project, could those of
you with real experience share your thoughts? Tail draggers are a challenge
to land until one learns that it is the only way to fly.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to europa |
>>Interested in the questioning comment about difficulty in flying/landing the
europa and the number for sale after completion.<<
If there is one single key to a good landing in a monowheel Europa it is not to
allow the airplane to land until the stick is hard on the back stop. The only
other possibility is CG too far forward. Full nose down trim will give enough
extra pitch authority at a cost of higher stick load. In the air the aircraft is
excellent. Aerobatics are relatively easy although not approved in UK.
A few of the early builders spent too much money, one or two really wanted IFR
machines, also not approved. A few made their aircraft too heavy with
alternative engines, full panels and the like.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Denys.Gover" <Denys.Gover(at)aph.gov.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to europa |
Graham Singleton wrote:
>
> >>Interested in the questioning comment about difficulty in flying/landing the
> europa and the number for sale after completion.<<
>
> If there is one single key to a good landing in a monowheel Europa it is not
to
> allow the airplane to land until the stick is hard on the back stop. The only
> other possibility is CG too far forward. Full nose down trim will give enough
> extra pitch authority at a cost of higher stick load. In the air the aircraft
is
> excellent. Aerobatics are relatively easy although not approved in UK.
> A few of the early builders spent too much money, one or two really wanted IFR
> machines, also not approved. A few made their aircraft too heavy with
> alternative engines, full panels and the like.
> Graham
>
I thought any landing yoou walk away from is a good one?
Denys Gover
________________________________________________________________________________
Would be unreasonable to ask that people replying to messages _do_not_ copy
the whole message as a header ?. It just increases the traffic load,
slows things down and fills our discs with a duplicate copies. It's usually
sufficient to copy just the bit you are replying to. I know some software
does this when you click on Reply, but I have yet to meet one where it cannot
be deactivated.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nichol_g(at)global.co.za (Graeme Nichol) |
| Subject: | Re: Message copying |
Good Point
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Message copying |
>>Would be unreasonable to ask that people replying to messages _do_not_ copy
the whole message as a header ?.<<
Yes please!
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | mat <mathieub(at)videotron.ca> |
| Subject: | ed data about the rotax engine for ultra-light aircraft |
if you have informations about this engine, can you send me the data about
the performance of this machine, the dimentions, the price etc.
i studied at the Ecole Polytechnique de montreal and i have a course :
Aircraft conception. This course is a course by project and it is the
conception of an ultra-light aircraft.
thank you
you can send me this informations at this email:
buzz(at)step.polymtl.ca
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CPattinson(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Completed Projects |
This ones for YOU at Europa Aviation Co UK. Could have sent it direct but I
wanted some feedback from other Europa builders as to whether they felt this
was a good idea.
I have just been browsing the companys excellent web pages and checked out
the one on completed projects only to find out it was last updated in July
last year. We all know many more have flown since then but I guess it is a
bit difficult to update these every week or so.
Would it be possible to publish the completed list on these pages every month
or so - Roger/ Andy perhaps ?.
I know the factory newsletter publishes completed projects from time to time
but we only get these every quarter or so (when Ivan can find time from his
busy schedule to do his editorial bit !)
I think it gives us all a bit of encouragement when we hear a new project has
taken to the air.
Regards.
Carl Pattinson
Project stalled due to other commitments - very frustrated !
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Bearder/Barraclough <106313.2726(at)compuserve.com> |
As it appears' windscreen demist' is desireable : -
Can anyone see any reason for not piping the vacuum pump outlet to the
inside of the screen?
Will the output be sufficient?
I have the Europa issued 'dry pump' so will the output be clean/warm
enough?
Thanks in anticipation,
David B.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D.Howard(at)kid0110.wins.icl.co.uk |
The manual calls for some less than typical drill bit sizes, e.g.
3.3mm. Is it somebody's maths is slightly suspect and they are
trying to quote a metric equivalent for 1/8" or do I really need
3.3mm ?
Clearly such bits are not available down the local DIY store.
Anybody suggest a suitable supply in the UK ?
Thanks,
Dave Howard
#309
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Burrill <100014.411(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
>> Clearly such bits are not available down the local DIY store.
Anybody suggest a suitable supply in the UK ?
I picked up a set from the Model Engineers exhibition after I found even the
large specialist hardware places didn't have all the sizes. Looking in the RS
Catalogue they also do drill bits in the right sizes.
Alan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Bryan" <kenbryan(at)bluechip.ie> |
| Subject: | Re: Completed Projects |
I agree , how about keeping your site up to date - we really do love it..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Demist |
>> I have the Europa issued 'dry pump' so will the output be clean/warm
enough?<<
I doubt it. It will probably contain carbon dust. Neat idea though.
There is a special cream for Perspex which prevents misting. Jon Tye bought some
at the motor show. Must get details.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
Eigentlich beschaeftigt sich diese Gruppe eher mit Bau und Betrieb der
"Europa," ein 2-sitziges Sportflugzeug in Eigenbauweise.
Der Rotaxmotor, den wir mit Dir gemeinsam haben, ist wahrscheinlich ein
Modell das nicht beim Karting gebraucht wird: entweder Rotax-912,
4-Zyl.-Boxer (4-Takt) mit Wasserkuehlung, oder Rotax-914, der Gleiche
Motor mit Turbolader.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
Hi Dave,
You really do need something slightly larger than 1/8" for rivets, else they
don't go in easily. Hardware stores (in the US) usually carry number drills
in addition to inch sizes. A #30 drill is .1285in which is perfect for 1/8"
rivets, while a #40 is useful for through drilling a 1/8 solid rivet when it
needs to be removed because it didn't (oops) set properly.
A #12 drill is .1890in which works for 4.8mm.
Hardware stores sometimes give out pocket charts listing drill numbers vs
size in thousandths of an inch.
Regards,
John, A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D Reed <dreed(at)cdsnet.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
>
>Hardware stores sometimes give out pocket charts listing drill numbers vs
>size in thousandths of an inch.
>
>Regards,
>
>John, A044
>
>
80=.0135 45=.082 8=.199
7=.201
44=.086 6=.204
79=.0145 43=.089 5=.2055
78=.016 42=.0935 4=.209
3=.213
77=.018 41=.096 2=.221
76=.020 40=.098 1=.228
75=.021 39=.0995
74=.0225 38=.1015
73=.024 37=.104
72=.025 36=.1065
71=.026 35=.110
70=.028 34=.111
69=.0292 33=.113
68=.031 32=.116
67=.032 31=.120
66=.033 30=.1285
65=.035 29=.136
64=.036 28=.1405
63=.037 27=.144
62=.038 26=.147
61=.039 25=.1495
60=.040 24=.152
59=.041 23=.154
58=.042 22=.157
57=.043 21=.159
56=.0465 20=.161
55=.052 19=.166
54=.055 18=.1695
53=.0595 17=.173
52=.0635 16=.177
51=.067 15=.180
50=.070 14=.182
49=.073 13=.185
48=.076 12=.189
11=.191
47=.0785 10=.1935
46=.081 9=.196
F.Y.I.[Just in case your local D.I.Y.isn't open]!
DR.
Oregon
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Thomas <Peter_Thomas(at)compuserve.com> |
Hello
I have just finished bringing the Europa web site up to date (including all
the completed projects). I'm just waiting for the team at Europa to proof
read the new material before putting it live.
New pages include : Latest newsletters, latest project completions, test
flight reports (G-YURO and G-ELSA) and last but not least a reciprocal
links page. Scattered across the new pages are some excellent air to air
photos of G-KITS and G-ODTI.
Best wishes
Pete
PS While we are on the subject of updating Web pages. The Europa Club pages
haven't been updated for a while simply because of the lack of material
contributed ! I'm waiting :-)
PPS Keep the feedback coming. More feedback hopefully will mean more
updates. What do you want to see there that isn't already there ? What
would be useful ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Denys Gover <skypilot(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Message copying |
Gramin(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Would be unreasonable to ask that people replying to messages _do_not_ >copy
>>Eigentlich beschaeftigt sich diese Gruppe eher mit Bau und Betrieb der
>>"Europa," ein 2-sitziges Sportflugzeug in Eigenbauweise.
One could also say the same for those messages not in english??
DG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Demist |
>As it appears' windscreen demist' is desireable : -
> Can anyone see any reason for not piping the vacuum pump outlet to the
>inside of the screen?
The problem with this is very fine dust blown onto the inside surface of
your windscreen: the pump vanes are made from graffite, I believe: not sure
I'd want that in my cockpit.
Why not duct warm air from the cabin heat?
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)gn.apc.org> |
| Subject: | R: Europa tomfoolery |
Forwarded from the FLYER list ....
>owner-flyer using -f
From: Dave Miller <Dave.Miller(at)ilp.com>
>Subject: FLYER: Europa tomfoolery
>Date: Fri, 07 Feb 97 09:40:00 GMT
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>Just been having a browse through the Europa web site. Found a most
>interesting sentence in the demonstration flight description:
>
>"If we are lucky we will find and bounce an RAF Bulldog which just can t
>get away!"
>
>Just think of the poor UAS student pilot tottering around the sky only to
>be buzzed by one of these little beasties. Now that is amusing ;) ....
>Ahem, I mean a shockingly irresponsible display of... erm.... oh
>bo*****s! aviation SHOULD be fun.
>I think I may have to book a demo flight.
>
>BTW: If anyone from Europa reads this mailing list: nice web site for a
>belting aircraft!! Well done chaps(esses).
>
>Dave.
>_____
>Dave Miller
>PPL(A);IMC.u/t - 55hrs
>FLYER Magazine
>The Flyer List is supported by Aviators Network UK - info(at)avnet.co.uk
>
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Bryan" <kenbryan(at)bluechip.ie> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Demist |
RainX available from motor accessories will do the trick..
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jbamfyld(at)netlink.co.nz (John Bampfylde) |
| Subject: | o Encoders and Static system |
I won't 'alf be pleased when those @$&*ing wings are finally set up to the
fuselage. I had a go last Friday, and next day spent an hour convincing
myself that when the level said 2.4 degrees on the starboard wing it really
meant 2.5 degrees, as it said for the port wing. Ho hum, have another go
next weekend after a little tidy up session...
NZ is known for its wind- roaring forties and all that. So why have I not
got my taildragger rating after two months? You've guessed it, I'm waiting
for a windy day to show the instructor I can land the Super Cub (nice
'plane, by the way) in a cross wind. Not having a cross wind in the last
month in the Wellington area is extraordinarily unlikely. Of course when it
comes to the first flight of the Europa, I will put a large bet on it
blowing a gale 90 degrees off :-(
Anyway, down tho the questions:
All you lucky micro encoder users: where (and in what tube or vessel) have
you put the OAT sensor?
For all other lucky builders: what quick connect system have you used to
allow the pitot tube to be disconnected (and quickly and safely reconnected)
in the wing root area when rigging and derigging? Aircraft Spruce have the
AN fittings, but it is none to clear what to use. Also, if the connect is
done up and undone regularly I worry about wear and tear.
While on the computer, where is the favoured location for a Hamilton
vertical card compass? I presume the tacho would make it inadvisable to put
it in the panel.
Regards,
John Bampfylde, #130
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Phil Passmore <phil(at)passmore.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Demist |
In message <199702091912.TAA22088(at)indigo.ie>, Ken Bryan
writes
>RainX available from motor accessories will do the trick..
I would not recomend this product for the inside of screens, it is ideal
for the outside to improve the plastics water shedding properties, but
does not work as an anti mist.
I always use a little Fairy Liquid dish washing liquid on the inside of
my motorcycle helmet visor to prevent misting. Smear on a small quantity
and buff very carefully with a soft cloth.
--
Phil Passmore
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Bryan" <kenbryan(at)bluechip.ie> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Demist Phil Passmore |
apologies but there is a RAINX product for demisting as well
I cannot remember the name but you will usually find it with RainX
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
>Dave Howard asked where to obtain drills as specified in the manual.
For some years I have been using a firm called J. Simble a retail tool
supply in Watford who also operate mail order on 01923 212022. They have a
fantastic tool selection which includes a vast range of drills including all
the ones specified in the manual (even the 10.2mm)
Dave Watts (229)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
| Subject: | Re: Pitot system |
>For all other lucky builders: what quick connect system have you used to
>allow the pitot tube to be disconnected >John Bampfylde, #130
A preferred method in the UK is the one originated by Graham Singleton which
uses 1/4inch rigid plastic tube and quick connect fittings as used on truck
air systems. These fitting have a ring as within their makeup. The tube goes
through the ring and into the fitting where it locks into position.
Depressing the ring releases the grip on the tube for dismantling.
Dave Watts (229)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
For those that may be interested, you probably already know that there is a
manual index available from the factory on the net. Roger Bull did a fine
job in making this available after several requests on this forum.
I have taken this index and gone to town on it, reorgansing its layout so
that it follows a more logical alphabetical order as well as grouping
subjects more appropriately together. I have also completely cross
referenced everything with both the old and new manuals.
At the moment I am waiting for Roger to inform me of 6 page numbers in the
new manual to finalise the whole deal then it will be made available to all
here. It runs to 8 A4 pages so I will liase with Peter Thomas as to the best
way to make it available.
David Watts (229)
________________________________________________________________________________
400/C=GB/"@MHS>
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)gn.apc.org> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
D.Howard(at)kid0110.wins.icl.co.uk wrote:
> The manual calls for some less than typical drill bit sizes, e.g.
> 3.3mm.
Standard drill sizes are now metric dimensions in most countries. The usual
series goes in 0.1 mm steps (eg I have a set of 1 - 5.9mm by 0.1mm, total
50 drill bits) However, the old number (& letter) sizes are still not too
hard to get hold of as they are still used in imperial :-) places like USA.
I'd recommend buying a metric set if you have the choice, though. They will
make life easy when drilling holes for tapping in (coarse) ISO metric screw
threads; you subtract the pitch dimension from the nominal overall thread
diameter to get the tapping size (eg M4x0.7 requires 3.3mm, M10x1.5
requires 8.5mm).
Thanks to D (Dave? Doug? Dilbert?) Reed for posting that handy list of
number to decimal equivalents. You can buy in most engineering supply
houses a little pocket booklet which gives that list, with imperial
fraction and metric decimal equivalents and near-equivalents. It also
covers tapping & clearance drill sizes for all the popular machine-screw
thread sizes and other good engineering titbits (= tidbits in USA). Mine is
called "Zeus Precision" data charts & etc, but it is not a recent edition
as it claims to be in use by such firms as DH, AVRO, Saro, Folland, Handley
Page, Hunting, BEA, and BOAC. Get yours from the same place as the drill
bits (see below).
The pocket calculator can provide some of the functionality of this
booklet, but can't compete when you need to make a tapped hole for some
strange thread, or even to find out what thread is on the bolt you're
holding.
> Clearly such bits are not available down the local DIY store.
Actually, _my_ local DIY shop _does_ stock a good range of the metric drill
bits, but they are a proper shop, not a chain warehouse. Buy a copy of
Model Engineer, Engineering in Miniature, or Model Engineer's Workshop, and
select a supplier from the ads therein. Either pick one nearby, or choose
one of the many mail-order houses. I've used most of them at various times,
and can't remember any with bad service. It's the wrong time of year to
mention it, but the other place you should frequent is the Model Engineer
Exhibition in London, first week in January. There are similar events
elsewhere (advertised in the above mags) at other times of the year, and
you may find them more convenient to attend. Just watching the indoor
flying displays is worth the MEE entry fee alone, even if you don't come
away with a rucksack weighed down with bargain goodies. Our friends from
Perma-Grit are always there, other outfits are selling Dremel tools at
discount, etc, etc.
(Sorry to be so wordy - I strongly agree with the comments about
_selective_ quoting of prior postings; I'd also like to see more
disciplined use of the subject line - ie change it if the subject changes!)
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CPattinson(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Demist Phil Passmore |
I can definitely endorse the use of Rain- X but again only externally - it
dosent work as a demist inside an aircraft (i've tried !).
Try it on your car first though. You can actually drive along in heavy rain
with the windscreen wipers off and still see quite clearly. The only
unnerving thing is that the raindrops race up your windscreen instead of down
- quite unnerving till you get used to it.
Carl P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Demist |
>>RainX available from motor accessories will do the trick..<<
Not the same trick. RainX causes rain to shed easily. The other stuff makes the
water spread evenly thus preventing misting. I think.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Pete
>
>PPS Keep the feedback coming. More feedback hopefully will mean more
>updates. What do you want to see there that isn't already there ? What
>would be useful ?
>
Didn't you fix a program a while back which would search an archive
of postings to this list?, what happened to it?
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
Mine is called "Zeus Precision" data charts & etc, but it is not a recent edition
> as it claims to be in use by such firms as DH, AVRO, Saro, Folland, Handley
> Page, Hunting, BEA, and BOAC. Get yours from the same place as the drill
> bits (see below).
Is that the issue with a foreward by Orville Wright :-)
Isn't it nice to see the names of all of those manufacturers again. They sound
so
much nicer than British Aerospace and British Airways.
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 02/10/97
Time: 14:42:30 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Thomas <Peter_Thomas(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Archive (aka EuroChat) |
>>Didn't you fix a program a while back which would search an archive
of postings to this list?, what happened to it? <<
Please note the subject change Rowland and I hope I clipped enough Graham
It's so hard to please everyone :-)
The list archive database can be downloaded from the ftp site:
ftp.avnet.co.uk/pub/europa
It is compressed into a file called EuroChat.Zip. Extract the setup files
then run setup.exe on a Win 3.11 or Win 95 PC.
You will get a database of all messages that you can sort, filter, edit and
delete to your hearts content. The best bit ( from my point of view ) is
that you are responsible to keep it updated. All you do is import the
monthly archive file produced by Majordomo (the list software). This can be
requested from the list very easily by sending an e-mail to the address:
europa-request(at)avnet.co.uk just include the commands
get europa europa.9702
You would obviously substitute the appropriate years and months as you
require. (9702 BTW is for Feb 1997 ! )
Good luck
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Turner <Tony_Turner_2(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Demist Phil Passmore |
The interior one is Rain-X Anti-Fog (as opposed to just Rain-X).
T.T.
Motoring with OzWin 2.10 (g3)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Cliff <jfc(at)oasis.icl.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
Try Axminster Power Tool Centre for a wide range of power and hand
tools, including drill bits in metric sizes.
Call 0345 585290
or fax 01297 35242
or mail Axminster(at)msn.com
and they will send you a free copy of their 350 page catalogue.
John Cliff
#0259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Micro Encoders and Static system |
Dear John--
Having been down there a few years ago to pick up a Marchetti
(actually from out in the Wairarapa) and ferry it back to the States, I
know what you mean about the wind!
Re pitot-static fittings: I've seen a nifty four-tube connector
used by some glider types for quick removal of their instrument panels.
Seems to me that Winter made it, so you might try local glider clubs or
soaring magazines. Failing that, what I use in my own glider is simple
double-ended "barbed" fittings, and they seem to work fine.
Peter Lert, US-37
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Micro Encoders and Static system |
>>what quick connect system have you used to allow the pitot tube to be
disconnected (and quickly and safely reconnected)
in the wing root area when rigging and derigging?<<
We use moulded nylon push on fittings and hard nylon pressure tubing. If you
forget to disconnect when rigging they automatically release as soon as they hit
the side of the fuselage. There are also tees and elbows with threads to fit the
ASI and Altimeter. I buy them from local (UK) hose and tube engineering
suppliers. Haven't found the manufacturer yet.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Micro Encoders and Static system |
>
> Re pitot-static fittings: I've seen a nifty four-tube connector
> used by some glider types for quick removal of their instrument panels.
> Seems to me that Winter made it, so you might try local glider clubs or
> soaring magazines.
RD Aviation sell them and very nice they are too. Makes removal of the instrument
panel
air lines a simple task.
Failing that, what I use in my own glider is simple
> double-ended "barbed" fittings, and they seem to work fine.
The fittings that Graham Singleton uses are much nicer as they are just clip lock
in.
[John... I am off to the UK in a couple of months, I will bring some back for you.]
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 02/11/97
Time: 10:57:41 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Static System |
>>[John... I am off to the UK in a couple of months, I will bring some back for
you.]
Tony<<
I'd better get some in stock. My suppliers have been less than reliable lately.
Remind me before you shout.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Pete Thomas should be congratulated for Eurochat - can't imagine
why I didn't download it before. - But Pete - it needs a function
to be able to copy selected sections of text to the clipboard, I can
only do it in Paradox....
Anyway, to get back to my pet subject of the moment - 0R5 - Not
much response to my posting the other day. I looked up the
subject in Eurochat and there it was - from Bill W-Wynne, 28/9/96 -
outrigger collapse - he said:
>Peter Davis wrote:
>
>>I hear a bit about this rather alarming/embarassing/expensive occurrence.> Does
>>anyone know how often this happens or has it only been once which is being
>>repeated?
>
>skids ........
I find it rather alarming that one should have to rely on gravity
to drop the outriggers. In fact I don't believe they were
designed for this to have to be the case, but there may be a
production error, but in the normal course of events it isn't
noticed. (see my earlier posting) The point is here is that I think
that if the slot in OR5 was a little shorter (2mm or so) then they
would be FORCED to come down and lock with flap deployment,
notwithstanding anything reasonable like a bit of speed, a spring
break, or some stiffness in the mechanism if it got bashed or
something, perhaps on takeoff.
However....It may be a problem of just our aircraft - does anyone
else have this problem?
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter.Thomas(at)burton.co.uk |
Thanks for the feedback Richard
>>But Pete - it needs a function to be able to copy selected sections
of text to the clipboard...<<
All the fields in EuroChat are standard Windows controls. As such they
inherit the keyboard shortcuts from Windows itself.
Highlight the text to select it then ....
to copy press CTRL+C
to cut press CTRL+X
to paste press CTRL+V
Good luck
Pete
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Demist |
In a message dated 08/02/97 11:09:26, you write:
>As it appears' windscreen demist' is desirable : -
You have just given me another justification for mounting a digital camera
underneath !
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
At 02:04 AM 2/6/97, you wrote:
>I was messing around with setting the UC lever range, getting the
>flaps & outriggers to do their thing Etc. the other day and wondered
>if others have noticed a problem we seem to have with the slot in
>OR5.
>
>In the normal course of events:
>
>Flap up, the pin which runs in the slot in OR5 is at one extreme of
>the slot and this location sets the up position of the outrigger.
>
>Flap moving down, the pin rides up the slot a bit until the spring
>overcomes the latch, it then returns until the outrigger is fully
>down when it rides up the slot a bit to give the flap free
>movement.
>
>However. if the latch sticks a bit, or the outrigger is a bit
>stiff (gets bashed or something) or if the spring should break, then
>the pin should simply ride to the far extreme of the slot and then
>pull the latch and it all returns to normal. The problem is that we
>get to 27 deg flap just before (c. 2mm) the pin gets to the end of
>the slot, and thus in this case it won't lock down - the slot is a
>bit too long. It would seem that what could apparently be a fairly
>failsafe arrangement will not work in our case.
>
>Have others noticed this or is it just us? It can be tweaked by
>making new OR5's with a slightly shorter slot.
>
>Regards;
>
>Richard Meredith-Hardy
>
>Your problem with the outrigger would indicate that either you have
unacceptably high friction loads in the mechanism to cause the spring OR12
to extend at all before the outrigger leg has latched down, or that you are
maybe operating the mechanism with the wing leading edge down or even with
the wing upside down.
Not much more than gravity, even with the airloads experienced at approach
speeds, should be sufficient to allow the outrigger leg to ewxtend and latch.
Regards
Andy Draper
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Micro Encoders and Static system |
>For all other lucky builders: what quick connect system have you used to
>allow the pitot tube to be disconnected (and quickly and safely reconnected)
>in the wing root area when rigging and derigging?
>
A quick-connect coupling suitable for the pitot is the PLC-12 Polypropylene
coupling from Colder Products Company.
Ensure that you order the type with push-on hose connections as opposed to
the threaded type.
These connectors are available from Tom Parker Ltd. in Preston, Lancs, U.K.
Tel: +44 (0)1772 251405 Fax +44 (0)1722 827088.
Regards
Andy Draper>
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
>
> The manual calls for some less than typical drill bit sizes, e.g.
> 3.3mm. Is it somebody's maths is slightly suspect and they are
> trying to quote a metric equivalent for 1/8" or do I really need
> 3.3mm ?
>
> Clearly such bits are not available down the local DIY store.
> Anybody suggest a suitable supply in the UK ?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Howard
> #309
>
The rivets used are metric and the drill sizes are quoted from the
manufacturer's data. However the number 30 drill should be close enough.
Note that a 4.8mm drill is used to make holes for AN3 bolts, not a 3/16"
drill. The AN3 bolts are slightly larger than 3/16". A number 12 drill
should be used here.
Regards
Andy Draper
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Windscreen Demist |
>As it appears' windscreen demist' is desireable : -
> Can anyone see any reason for not piping the vacuum pump outlet to the
>inside of the screen?
> Will the output be sufficient?
> I have the Europa issued 'dry pump' so will the output be clean/warm
>enough?
>Thanks in anticipation,
>David B.
>
>
>The output from the vacuum pump may contain carbon deposits from the pump's
vanes. A simple filter, similar to the inlet filter, should sort out that
problem though.
Whether the air will be warm enough will have to be found out from
experimentation.
Regards
Andy Draper
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlton Jefferis <106363.103(at)compuserve.com> |
Europa For Sale!
Airframe completed, all mods to date, ready for paint and engine.
20,000 UKpounds.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: FLYER: Europa tomfoolery |
In a message dated 09/02/97 15:22:43, you write:
>be buzzed by one of these little beasties.
When leaving Wombleton after my "indoctrination/hooking" visit, dear-departed
Pete Clark homed on us like a missile while I was in a full power climbout.
All the horses of a 182 were of no avail and rather then throw out the
passengers I spent the time reading his map (used to be the definition of an
air-miss when you could do that). I have the picture to prove it - didn't use
telephoto, and Yuros cabin fills the frame- must put in on the website.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Pitot system |
In a message dated 09/02/97 22:56:27, you write:
>what quick connect system have you used to allow the pitot tube to be
disconnected<<
You can use a footpump connector available from Halfords similarly..
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Micro Encoders and Static system |
We are using a co-axial twin tube fitting from Tom Parker Ltd: 01772251405
fx 827088.
sealed by "O" rings, positive locking, one half is a bulkhead fitting, made
from plastic for medical equipment
-small and light.
Why twin tube? Because we are fitting a wing mounted pitot/static system
like the Pitts.
All the best, Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
I flew GKwhip again today. This time after tightening up the ducting to the rad
and connecting up the pitot static system to fuselage static (we flew on cockpit
the other day). Water temp was down 10 defgrees and oil 15 or more. Didn't quite
expect that. Probably means cooler under cowl temps. Radiator air goes more or
less straight in and straight out. All 16 sq inches of it.
Visibility over the nose is much much better. (Ivan did the landings last time).
However I was most surprised to realise I was climbing away at an indicated 20
kts or so. Even in a white knuckle flaps up cruise climb I saw only 60 kts. I
didn't look at the ASI on finals. Just trimmed to what felt right and tried to
behave normally. I suppose Pete would have ascertained the stall speed first. I
assumed it would be below readable values so didn't bother.
Always the possibility of leaks in the system, not yet checked, OTH maybe the
non laminar flow from the new bare cowls was affecting pressure recovery and
altering the static. More fun to come ({:-)
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Andy Draper wrote:
>>
>>Your problem with the outrigger would indicate that either you have
>unacceptably high friction loads in the mechanism to cause the spring OR12
>to extend at all before the outrigger leg has latched down, or that you are
>maybe operating the mechanism with the wing leading edge down or even with
>the wing upside down.
>
>Not much more than gravity, even with the airloads experienced at approach
>speeds, should be sufficient to allow the outrigger leg to ewxtend and latch.
>
No we don't have friction, it all works fine. I was looking at what
happens when it goes wrong, thats all - I bow to the boss! - If
gravity is the means, and you can say it works every time then I
won't argue except to say that if the slot in OR5 >was< a bit
shorter then the outriggers will latch down with a lot more
certainty.
Dare I ask whether the standard max flap angle has been reduced since
OR5 was designed? As I recall it was somewhere nearer 30 deg at
one time.
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)gn.apc.org> |
| Subject: | Archive - another format available |
Peter Thomas wrote:
>The list archive database can be downloaded from the ftp site:
>ftp.avnet.co.uk/pub/europa
>
>It is compressed into a file called EuroChat.Zip. Extract the setup files
>then run setup.exe on a Win 3.11 or Win 95 PC.
For those who prefer the Mac OS, there is also a FileMaker Pro version
available (FMP V3 only). Please ask me if you want the template & massaging
utility - you then download your own copies of the monthly archives as
Peter described (since it now runs to nearly 7M total I'm not going to mail
you the file with all the data in it!) and preprocess those with the
utility beofre importing them into the FMP3 template. FMP3 will, of course,
also run on that other system (W95 & W3.1, not DOS), and I can supply C
source code for the utility so you can compile it on your own platform.
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | MSmith1565(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Welcome to europa |
obviously Ken Bryan has never flown a Europa! I would like to invite him to
visit us at Bidford and experience the magic of this aircraft .After a year
and 150 hours I still cant leave it alone ! and I have not flown anybody who
has not then wanted one!
Mike
Smith.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
I visited a shop specializing in fiberglass aircraft building and repair
recently. The shop owner was very helpful in answering a number of
questions. One thing that came up was removal of the spots of Bondo used to
hold fixtures to the wing temporarily. In his shop was a 7 year old Long-EZ
which had several small areas where the paint had peeled and been repaired
twice previously. The EZ's owner finally brought it to him and he found that
each of the areas which had repeatedly peeled was where Bondo had been
applied. He ground it off and put in fiberglass patches to prevent
recurrence, then re-painted. He indicated that he has seen similar problems
several times when Bondo was not completely removed. Apparently the Bondo
retains a small amount of moisture and when the surface is heated by the sun
it turns to steam, loosening the paint; the process often takes 2 or more
years. He indicated that the only sure prevention was complete removal prior
to painting.
I asked how he normally removes Bondo. He showed me a relatively soft
Scotchbrite wheel which he uses. I located a similar looking wheel but its
apparently not identical since it tends to abrade the fiberglass as well as
remove the Bondo. So, I would like to inquire how other Europa builders have
handled Bondo removal.
For those who haven't used Bondo to secure their jigs yet, perhaps epoxying
some peel ply in place at the points where the Bondo will be used to secure
the jigs would help. Then, after the jigs are popped off the Bondo can be
chipped away and the final remnants pulled off with the peel ply. I haven't
tried this but it seems plausible. Alternately, if a small piece of
fiberglass is epoxied in place beforehand (without scuff sanding) at the jig
contact points it should be possible to peel it or sand it off afterwards,
taking the Bondo with it.
Thanks in advance for the help.
John, A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | dwatts(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (David Watts) |
| Subject: | Re: Bondo removal ? |
>So, I would like to inquire how other Europa builders have handled Bondo
removal.
I put a tip in the Europa Flyer a year ago regarding holding surfaces in
their jig blocks.
All I did was to put strips of 2inch wide masking tape on the surfaces then
put the Bondo on the tape. When you have finished the layup you can pull the
surface out of its jig block and peel off the masking tape leaving no marks
at all on the surface.
If you are applying the tape to a layup, i.e. when doingthe second side,
make sure that you rub the tape well down as it takes a little more effort
to stick to glass, but stick it does.
Hope this is of use,
David Watts.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Bondo removal ? |
Is this also an issue if you are using bondo to secure items prior
to filling the surface? In other words, is a small amount of bondo between
resin layers going to create a problem?
Having just used bondo to hold the flap jigs in place I can see that the
jigs do come away cleanly after the layup but the bondo does fill the weave.
I tried using David Watts suggestion of using masking tape when holding the spar
on its jig but there was too much tension to relieve and I had no choice
but to bondo directly to the spar.
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 02/13/97
Time: 10:22:59 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bondo removal ? |
>>For those who haven't used Bondo to secure their jigs yet, perhaps epoxying
some peel ply in place at the points where the Bondo will be used to secure
the jigs would help. Then, after the jigs are popped off the Bondo can be
chipped away and the final remnants pulled off with the peel ply. I haven't
tried this but it seems plausible<<
Sounds good to me.
BTW It's true that any polyester tends to cause blistering including polyester
primers. It's not so much boiling of trapped moisture but accumulation of
atmospheric water by osmosis. Prick a blister and you will get liquid not gas.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Carlton Jefferis <106363.103(at)compuserve.com> |
Europa For Sale!
Airframe completed, all mods to date, ready for paint and engine.
20,000 UKpounds.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
In mounting the quick connect bellcranks to the wing, I found that the port
bolt seems too short unless the counterbore is substantially deeper than the
5mm specified. I calculate the bolt lengths required as follows:
Port Stbd
Spar 1.256 1.276 Includes 3 layers of bid added
each side
S03 1.273
3 Washers .173 .173
BC4W10 .560 .560
Nut .210 .210
2 Threads .050 .050
-.200 -.200 Counterbore reduces length
required
------ -------
3.322 2.069
The bolts supplied were: port = AN4-31A, stbd = AN4-20A. The port bolt
supplied is 0.2in shorter than I expected while the starboard bolt agrees
with the calculated length. In practice, the starboard bolt is fine and the
port bolt does not go all the way through the nut. The manual indicates that
the port counterbore may need to be slightly deeper that the starboard
counterbore, possibly to accommodate this.
So, has anyone else run into this? I am hesitant to double the depth of the
counterbore since this seems more than "slightly" deeper. Bob Berube says I
am the only one who has called about this (probably because I am a first time
builder so I don't have a sense of what might cause trouble later so I try to
err on the side of conservatism).
In the same area, what is the typical clearance between the bolt ends holding
the wing mounted bellcrank vs the CS14 mounted bellcrank? I have less than
0.1in on the stbd side. Might these come in contact as the wings are inserted
or will the lift pins prevent this?
John, A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | imer on ATTITUDES . . . |
Been watching the dialog on "simple, cheap and low-cost"
attitude indicators. Many folk have already picked up on
the shortcomings of many low cost "attitude indicator"
offerings . . most notably from the ultra-light contingency.
In support of understanding and the exercise of good options
I offer the following:
"Attitude" is generally understood to describe the
positioning of an aircraft with respect to earth surface
(the mean surface, ignoring things like mountains, canyons
and potholes . . . sea level is about as close to mean
surface as one can physically demonstrate). There are
four basic means for deducing attitude (1) local reference
(2) universe reference (3) inertial reference and
(4) gravity reference.
All four of these systems are utilized to various
degrees in the cockpit of most airplanes.
(1) LOCAL REFERENCE is your eyeballs . . . the visual
contact with the outside tells us how well we're doing.
Sources for error: sloping terrain, obstructions to
perception - fog, white-out, glassy seas, etc.
(2) UNIVERSE REFERENCE is gyros . . . unless acted upon
by some outside force, a gyro will point at some fixed
point in space. Obviously, as the earth rotates, a gyro's
indication will change depending on latitude of your current
location -and- direction the gyro was pointed when it was
first spun up. Attitude gyros are fitted with pointing
mechanisms that use gravity reference to keep the critter
right side up. Heading gyros (unless slaved to a magnetic
compass) simply drift as the earth rotates. Hence, they
require occasional annual updating to match the magnetic
compass.
Sources for error: Friction in rotor and gimbal bearings,
wind drag inside the instrument (remember, the thing
turns at 10,000 rpm - 2" diam rotor has perimeter of 6.3
inches. The SURFACE speed of the rotor is over 80 feet per
second!) and mechanically induced errors from
erection/calibration systems. For example, if you
fly in a coordinated 30 degree banked turn for about
15 minutesand then level the wings, you'll find that your
attitude gyro has picked up some error while trying to
erect to a new "gravity" vector.
(3) INERTIAL REFERENCE says, "if I turn at 3 degrees per
second for 10 seconds, I'm now 30 degrees difference from
where I started. Hmmmm . . . this is obviously limited.
This is how your turn coordinator works. It's a rate
sensor that has no idea where you're pointed right now
but it does know how fast your heading is CHANGING.
Angular rate gyros are core components of an inertial
navigation system along with linear rate sensors
(accelerometers). These systems must be initialized
from a known baseline. Like sitting on the ramp before
engine start. The systems may also use data from other
parts of the navigation system (iron gyros, keyboard
input by pilot, pitot-static transducers, GPS, VLF Nav,
Loran, etc.) to decide where we are and what our current
attitude is.
Once the system is "stood up" it keeps track of linear
accelerations (feet per second per second) and rotational
rates (degrees per second) in millisecond slices to deduce
our current position and attitude. The turn coordinator on
the panel is a rate sensor which requires you to INTEGRATE
readings with time to deduce a change in heading.
Sources for error: Most modern inertial sensors have zero
moving parts so things like friction and windage are no
problem. No-moving-parts sensors have calibration drifts
with respect to temperature but this is small and can be
calculated out. The largest source of error is time dependent
and based on limits of sensor resolution and magnitude of
uncertainty in calculations. Fortunately, the short term
stability is VERY good and other sensors such as radio nav
aids and iron gyro platforms can be combined with inertial
sensors to paint and update a VERY accurate navigation
picture for the duration of flight.
The needle portion of turn coordinator is also a gyro but
it turns at a much lower speed than the attitude and heading
gyros. Further, it's constrained with a series of springs
that forces the gyro maintain a fixed position with respect
to the airplane. As you CHANGE direction, the gyro tugs on
the springs with a force that is PROPORTIONAL to your RATE
of turn. Obviously, coupling the gyro frame to a pointer
allows one to display turning rate on the face of the
instrument. This makes your turn-coordinator an INERTIAL
REFERENCE device.
There are important differences between Turn Coordinator
(airplane roll axis displayed on face) and the older Rate of
Turning (single, fat, upward pointing needle) instrument.
A Turn Coordinator's gyro axis is canted up from horizontal
by a few degrees to make it slightly sensitive to ROLL.
The old Turning Rate instrument is insensitive to roll rate.
This enhancement of instrument makes for more accurate
"no gyros" maneuvering.
(4) GRAVITY REFERENCE is a important part of the nav sensor
system but certain things must be known for gravity to be
a useful parameter for display. First, you cannot be
changing direction (turning) because a coordinated turn can
present a new and totally false picture of where the center
of the earth is lies with respect to your aircraft.
This is why the needle and ball are combined on our panels.
To deduce that wings are level, both needle (turn rate)
and ball (gravity vector) values must be zero.
Sources for error: The ball in our turn coordinators
is about as free from error as any device in the airplane
. . . when the ball is centered, you can believe that
the gravity vector is parallel with your yaw axis. Now,
if the rate of turn is ALSO zero, you can believe that
the gravity vector represents an accurate position with
respect to the center of the earth.
--------------------------
With a little thought you can see that as pilots we use a
smoothly integrated combination of local, gravity, and
inertial inputs combined with other senses (sound and stick
forces) to maneuver an airplane. Gravity and inertial senses
in your butt and inner ear are subject to the same confusion
factors that plague instruments. Loss of local sensing is
best replaced with stable platforms (iron gyros) but it's
very possible to get by with a manual integration of
inertial and gravity vector data (needle and ball) to keep
the dirty side down and the pointy end forward.
Obviously, devices offering only gravity referenced displays
cannot be depended upon as sole indicators of aircraft attitude.
THE FUTURE:
A number of manufacturers are offering solid state rate and
linear accelerometers. These may be combined with "slow"
sensors like GPS and LORAN to mathematically deduce everything
you ever wanted to know about where you are, where you're
going and whether or not you're right side up. The trick
is to design a system that can take data from a variety of
simple sensors, deduce what is needed to know and display it,
and be capable of falling back on less accurate but equally
stable modes of flight in case of certain sensor failures;
an electronic reversion to needle-ball-airspeed-position
mode from an attitude-position mode. The micro-controller
combined with the new families of low cost sensors will
make it all possible.
WRAP UP:
Low cost "attitude" displays are not. The turn coordinator
is probably the simplest, most reliable alternative to iron
gyros. On anything less than a CAVU day, the T/C should be
a dispatch item (don't go flying without it) and it should
enjoy two power paths for energy to keep it running. The
critter won't do you any good unless you are practiced in
it's use. Shoot some non-precision approaches under the
hood (make up your own GPS approaches to some little airport
. . or even a stretch of straight highway . . . you just
need some kind of runway-like ground reference) and get
someone to ride shotgun for you several times a year.
It's fun, it's enlightening and it could help you avoid
bending an otherwise perfectly good airplane!
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552ompuserve.com
http://www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Evers <evers(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Message copying |
>Gramin(at)aol.com wrote:
>>
>> Would be unreasonable to ask that people replying to messages _do_not_ >copy
>
>One could also say the same for those messages not in english??
>DG
Why ever not ? Both the internet and the Europa are 'international
phenomina' . There is no divine right that non- English language
contributions should be forbidden. We are just darned lucky that the
communication age has adopted the English language and we are spared the
ordeal of having to become competent in a 'foreign' language as a
pre-requisite for any proffessional career. Besides, it's perfectly in
order that the reply in 'foreign' be broadcast so that everyone knows that
a reply has been made and there is no need for others to attempt one. I for
one derived some enjoyment from reading both notes.
Another general gripe on note content: I am sure that those non-native
English speaking participants must be confused or amused by the grammatical
blunders which are made. By far the most frequent mistake is
the confusion of "its" and "it's". ("it's" is short for " it is" or
"it has"; the possesive pronoun does NOT have an apostrophe).
There, their.
To, too, two.
aCCoMModation !
>
Eric Evers
Ayrshire, Scotland.
Ham: GM0 BVK
________________________________________________________________________________
Rihard wrote:-...... except to say that if the slot in OR5 >was< a bit
>shorter then the outriggers will latch down with a lot more
>
>Dare I ask whether the standard max flap angle has been reduced since
>OR5 was designed? As I recall it was somewhere nearer 30 deg at
>one time.
>
>
I do see your point that if the slot were shorter and you did have a broken
spring / mud in the mechanism / bent bolt or whatever, you would get a
positive pull of the latch into place.
We did consider using more than 30=B0 of flap for landing in an attempt to
balance landing distance to take-off distance for aircraft with more
powerful engines and therefore a shorter take-off roll.
If you wish to make a new OR5 with a shorter slot, use HS30TF or better 3mm
thick material.
Andy Draper
>
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Message copying |
Eric Evers wrote:
>
> >Gramin(at)aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >> Would be unreasonable to ask that people replying to messages _do_not_ >copy
> >
>
> >One could also say the same for those messages not in english??
> >DG
> Why ever not ? Both the internet and the Europa are 'international
> <
>' . There is no divine right that non- English language
> contributions should be forbidden. We are just darned lucky that the
> communication age has adopted the English language and we are spared the
> ordeal of having to become competent in a 'foreign' language as a
> pre-requisite for any <
> career.
Couldn't agree more - lets not be insular ! Time we all learned
enough French German and Spanish to get around !
>
> Another general gripe on note content: I am sure that those non-native
> English speaking participants must be confused or amused by the grammatical
> blunders which are made. By far the most frequent mistake is
> the confusion of "its" and "it's". ("it's" is short for " it is" or
> "it has"; the possesive pronoun does NOT have an apostrophe).
> There, their.
> To, too, two.
> aCCoMModation !
All right, Eric, we all know they speak better English North of
the
border and we'll put <
> and <
> down to a slip
of the finger................
What was that about glass houses ??
73 de Martin
9Y4TAM
(Are we straying from aviation, by chance ?)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | markt(at)ns1.avnet.co.uk (Mark Talbot) |
| Subject: | Re: Message copying |
>>Gramin(at)aol.com wrote:
>G
>Why ever not ? we are spared the
>ordeal of having to become competent in a 'foreign' language as a
>pre-requisite for any proffessional career.
How does one spell professional?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Charles Parker <silas(at)sirius.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Message copying |
At 05:14 PM 2/14/97 GMT, you wrote:
>>>Gramin(at)aol.com wrote:
>>G
>>Why >
>How does one spell professional?
>Who cares?!? If we're not going to talk about Europa I rather prefered the
humor
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | approval of builder mods |
As members will know, the PFA now have a form to be filled up and a fee of
#15 per mod submitted. Indeed they seem to imply an "open cheque" for
#15/hour if the mod. is classified as "major" !
Builders submitting mods. will wish to contact PFA direct, as apart from the
form there are a number of sheets giving advice (and warnings) and a list of
consultants. For those interested in a preview of the form, it will appear
in the ftp shortly. This is an accurate enough replica to allow you to fill
it up via your pc., in case like me your handwriting function has virtually
ceased.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Eric Evers <evers(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: JFF Message content |
>All right, Eric, we all know they speak better English North of the
>border and we'll put <
> and <
> down to a slip
>of the finger................
Absolutely! If Eudora had a spell checker I'd use it. Don't blame
Scotland though I'm an incomer, albeit of >28 years standing.
OK so the next one is a funny:
I recently followed a driving school car (in Scotland) with a large sign on
the back:
BEWARE OF
SUDDEN BREAKING
Probably a very fragile vehicle!
>
> What was that about glass houses ??
Residents shouldn't stow thrones!
>
> 73 de Martin
> 9Y4TAM
>
>(Are we straying from aviation, by chance ?)
Not much; pilots and builders thrive (and survive) on paranoid attention
to details.
There wasn't much else being said today and it is frustrating to spend a
phone call to receive nothing. (This CAN happen if you are NOT subscribed to
the Flyer net.)
Maybe we need to have a code system of prefixes for the 'Subject' line to
indicate the type of content so that 'sorting by subject ' would simplify
the malibox clean-up operation.
For example:
NTS - No Technical Significance
JFF - Just For Fun
TIS - Tremendously Important Stuff
RLR - Right Load of Rubbish
Any suggestions?
PS for CP: I hope you prefeRRed the funny.
Eric Evers
Ayrshire, Scotland.
Ham: GM0 BVK
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Message copying |
>>One could also say the same for those messages not in english??
(I may have started the "don't repeat it all bit" , but the above was DG's)
________________________________________________________________________________
In a message dated 14/02/97 11:45:09, you write:
>We did consider using more than 30o of flap for landing<
A separate flap lever with various setting on its gate, looks easy to
implement as an optional mod.. I seem to remember it was discussed (or even
tried) way back. Any reason why not, Andy?
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | and aileron cores |
Perhaps those before me can help out.... (especially those with recent
experience -ie wing kits around the #250+ mark)
I've been setting out the flap and aileron jig blocks, ready to lay up the
parts. RH flaps are OK, except that there appears to be very little washout.
LH flap blocks are all over the place: miss matched, needing a wedge removed
to align them to each other, plus variable washout... so I have jigged the
blocks so that I have a progressive 1 degree washout through the flaps as
measured with a digital level on the bottom surface.
Then, checking the aileron cores (jig blocks glued to a dead flat surface)
on the top surface, I find I have around 1.6 degrees of washout on each
aileron... As the ailerons have the same "error", I'm wondering if I have
missed something -such as part of the change in angle being due to a change
in chord/thickness ratio going outboard.
Any comments?
Cheers,
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Miles McCallum <milesm(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
>
>>We did consider using more than 30o of flap for landing<
>
>A separate flap lever with various setting on its gate, looks easy to
>implement as an optional mod.. I seem to remember it was discussed (or even
>tried) way back. Any reason why not, Andy?
Please tell us more! I have fiddled around with a sketch pad and photocopies
of the outrigger mechanism trying to figure out how to have say 2 flap
settings, and have the outriggers latch and release at both settings... I'd
rather not get into electric outriggers.
While we're on this string, what are the objections to 40 degrees of flap,
for landings only.
All the best,
Miles
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Andy Draper wrote:
>I do see your point that if the slot were shorter and you did have a broken
>spring / mud in the mechanism / bent bolt or whatever, you would get a
>positive pull of the latch into place.
>
>We did consider using more than 30=B0 of flap for landing in an attempt to
>balance landing distance to take-off distance for aircraft with more
>powerful engines and therefore a shorter take-off roll.
>
>If you wish to make a new OR5 with a shorter slot, use HS30TF or better 3mm
>thick material.
>
I may even do that - thanks - half my problem was that I was unsure
whether this was a problem unique to our machine and was wondering
what was wrong.
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
>> objections to 40 degrees of flap, for landings only.<<
As you come into ground effect the flap will continue to float long after the
ailerons stop working.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap and aileron cores |
Re: Miles McCallum's <>
Assuming the cores were cut accurately (a pretty good assumption to make) then
provided the jig blocks are set back onto a flat surface and the ailerons &
flaps set on those with no inset or overhang anywhere around the jig block then
any washout that should be there will be there.
When I did mine it was a relief, having produced all the components separately,
and they were all finally hung on the wing - and the wingtip added, it all lined
up just great. There was a slight mismatch at the aileron/flap junction in plan
view by about 1/8th inch but I figured nobody would see it in flight and could
not detect it with flaps down of course. Both wings exhibited this mis-match.
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
Re: Europa 'chatline'
At the risk of sounding stuffy, having returned from a trip and waded through my
upteen E-mails I would agree that the Europa Forum should not turn into a
'chatline/jokeline/dateline(!)'.
I can't be selective on what I download before I download it.
There are plenty of chatline services on the Internet so use those if thats what
you like to do. Please keep the Europa Forum tuned into shared problems/build
advice and Europa related questions.
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
In a message dated 15/02/97 10:55:20, you write:
>>2 flap settings, and have the outriggers latch and release at both
settings<<.
IMHO that would be a touch ambitious and certainly in the #15/hr class. The
serial mechanical link from flap lever through flaps to outriggers is against
it. You would indeed almost be forced to motorise the outriggers.
I had in mind just disconnecting the flap rod from the u/c and coupling a
separate lever with intermediate stages for base leg and finals (was I taught
too long ago ?) leaving the outriggers unlocked until reaching full flap.
A large flywheel could stabilise the a/c on the ground in case you forget to
use full flap....(:-)), oops, sorry we haven't got a joke channel yet.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Lengths |
>>
In the same area, what is the typical clearance between the bolt ends holding
the wing mounted bellcrank vs the CS14 mounted bellcrank? I have less than
0.1in on the stbd side. Might these come in contact as the wings are inserted
or will the lift pins prevent this? <<
You must fit phenolic guides to prevent the spars sliding backwards. No doubt
when Andy's kitchen cools down a bit (should I say "if"?) it will be included.
It is easy to rig a Europa single handed with these guides, impossible without.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap and aileron cores |
>>Assuming the cores were cut accurately (a pretty good assumption to make)<<
Hmm. No comment on that, however when I hot wired my Long EZ wing cores They
didn't all come out straight. The trouble was that extruded Styrofoam sometimes
(often?) has assymetric stresses, so when the core is removed it springs to a
new shape to relieve its aches and pains. I don't know if Europa are using Heidi
to cut all the cores yet but the ones I saw that she did cut were excellent.(
Heidi is a computer.) When she first joined the company I suspect she might have
been the equivalent of a teenage girl. Utterly impossible to work with.
Since charmed by Roger and others to some semblance of humanity.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | time over again??? |
If you advanced builders had your time over again, would you attempt to
preshape the leading edge of the rudder where it joins the tip to save
having to repair in the future your own work?? I'm just shaping the rudder
now and am frustrated with "not being able to get it right the first time!
Is there an advantage in doing it the book way? I suppose it teaches repair
techniques for the future, but I'm not planning on creating this scenario,
and certainly not in an area where complex curves are.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
Gidday,
Could someone please uplink the RS Component Co's address details.
Thanks in anticipation.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Flap and aileron cores |
> I hate to say this, but did you check the angle with a digital level...?
Yes, I have 0.8 degrees of washout along its full length.
> My port flap has an undersized block needing shimming up, (um... they're all
> like that...) but both flaps had very little washout built in.
>
> I've now checked the ailerons -the section has a constant angle, and both
> have just under 2 degrees of washout. (instead of about 1/2 degree -derived
> from assuming constant twist)
Mine has 0.9 degrees.
Now if I add the two together I get 1.7 degrees across the complete
wing compared with 1.5 planned. The challenge of course is to ensure
that I do get 1.5 degrees of washout when I layup my wing :-)
Tony
>
> Cheers,
>
> Miles
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Jerry <jerry(at)flyinghi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
RS International (they claim they have companies all over)
They do a product CD
Tel 01536 405704 Fax 01536 204237
Telephoning from abroad - Drop the first 0
ie international access code followed by 44 1536 405704 or 204237 fax
Jerry
Flying Hi - Wish I was
http://www.avnet.co.uk/touchdown
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Francis <101520.2660(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | R1100RS Repair Manual |
RE-ADVERTISED
I have one only new (unopened) English version of the official BMW repair
manual for this engine ( it actually covers the whole motorcycle, but well over
1/3 of the manual is relevant to the prospective Europa engine option.)
Includes assembly , disassembly, torque settings, part numbers, special tool
part numbers, technical data and exploded parts views of the engine/alternator
and ancilliaries.
Price 59 GBP .
E-mail me if interested at 101520,2660(at)compuserve.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Alan Burrill <100014.411(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
>>Could someone please uplink the RS Component Co's address details.<<
RS Componants Ltd
PO Box 99
Corby
Northamptonshire
NN17 9RS
UK
Tel: 0(44)1536 201234
Fax: 0(44)01526405678
Telex: 342512
No email-address though, that I can find
Alan Burrill
#303
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter M. Davis" <101621.3070(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Your time over again??? |
Re Tony Renshaw's query about final shaping of rudder at the top.
Don't worry about it Tony. I went through the same thought process but when it
comes down to it you have to have the rudder temporarily fixed to the fuselage
to appreciate the amount of foam to be removed. So, lay it up now and you will
be able to pension off your flat, level table if you are short of space, as I
am.
When you get to the stage of finally fitting the rudder, complete with making
this necessary clearance, you will be amazed at the cavalier attitude you could
have developed by then!!
Whilst on line and on another completely unrelated topic, if you are listening
in Ron, could you drop me a line as I've not got your address anymore (due to my
suicidal hard disk). Ta.
Regards,
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Lengths |
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Graham wrote:
>You must fit phenolic guides to prevent the spars sliding backwards. No doubt
>when Andy's kitchen cools down a bit (should I say "if"?) it will be included.
>It is easy to rig a Europa single handed with these guides, impossible without.
We used a couple of L shape bits sawn from the corner of one of our
"spare" fuel tanks. Works perfectly.
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Tony Renshaw wrote:
>Gidday,
>Could someone please uplink the RS Component Co's address details.
>Thanks in anticipation.
http://www.rs-components.com/rs/
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "bryan.wilkinson" <aa4bwi(at)zen.sunderland.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Cooling Mods |
I note the new radiator installation - is this on the turbo or the NA
engine ?
How does this corrispond with the carb - heat installation om the latter ?
Sounds good anyway -
BTW Motorlidar wing - any progress ?
HAppy building & flying to one & all ...........
Regards , Bryan
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Your time over again??? |
>> would you attempt to preshape the leading edge of the rudder where it joins
the tip to save
having to repair in the future your own work?? would you attempt to
preshape the leading edge of the rudder where it joins the tip to save
having to repair in the future your own work??<<
No, I don't think I would. Just leave it unfinished. Same at the bottom. When
fitting the rudder make very sure you have enough room for the leading edge at
full left deflection. You need to allow for the finspar layups too.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dino Baker" <dba(at)biomed.fmc.flinders.edu.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Drill Precision |
> Date: Mon, 17 Feb 1997 21:13:56 +1100 (EST)
> From: Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au>
> Subject: Re: Drill Precision
> Gidday,
> Could someone please uplink the RS Component Co's address details.
> Thanks in anticipation.
> Regards
> Tony Renshaw
Hello Tony,
I forgot if you live in Sydney or Melbourne so here are the numbers.
Syd. ph 7379966
Melb. ph 93303666
I have a catalogue and can look up parts if you are interested.
BTW I helped my dad to lift the engine on the plane for the first
time last night.
Regards,
Dino Baker
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Your time over again??? |
Your time over again??? Rudder shaping.
When I trial fitted my rudder, it was too short by about half inch. Not much I
know but having lined the top up you would be surprised just how much of a hole
half inch makes at the base of the rudder/fuselage intersection. Very noticable
in side-view too.
I ended up lopping off the radiused top of the rudder and starting over. Once I
got the shape right (including the 'half-ball shaped' piece at the top which
allows it to enter the closeout) ... and allowed for two thicknesses of bid, I
cut a triangular groove under the existing skin and in new foam piece to make a
vee-groove for flox at the joint and layed up the bid.
A kinda butt joint I know but I figured that this was OK in this non-structural
area.
I doubt if you can predict quite what will happen with the rudder when you come
to fit it - particularly when you finish it so early in the project. The colder
weather halted progress on the rudder closeout last November. Beginning to warm
up now though so I'll be able to get cracking again soon and finish the airframe
off.
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Lengths |
> We used a couple of L shape bits sawn from the corner of one of our
> "spare" fuel tanks. Works perfectly.
And if you don't have any bits left over then you can always buy it
from Radiospares. Now, I am sure I saw their number around here
somewhere :-)
Tony
Recovering from a constant stream of US and European visitors who think that
a business trip to New Zealand in February is a great way of escaping the weather.
Funny how they never visit mid winter (July - Sept) unless they are into skiing!
Now I can get back to building. :-)
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Bolt Lengths |
>In mounting the quick connect bellcranks to the wing, I found that the port
>bolt seems too short unless the counterbore is substantially deeper than the
>5mm specified. I calculate the bolt lengths required as follows:
>
> Port Stbd
>
>Spar 1.256 1.276 Includes 3 layers of bid added
>each side
>S03 1.273
>3 Washers .173 .173
>BC4W10 .560 .560
>Nut .210 .210
>2 Threads .050 .050
> -.200 -.200 Counterbore reduces length
>required
> ------ -------
> 3.322 2.069
>
>The bolts supplied were: port = AN4-31A, stbd = AN4-20A. The port bolt
>supplied is 0.2in shorter than I expected while the starboard bolt agrees
>with the calculated length. In practice, the starboard bolt is fine and the
>port bolt does not go all the way through the nut. The manual indicates that
>the port counterbore may need to be slightly deeper that the starboard
>counterbore, possibly to accommodate this.
>
>So, has anyone else run into this? I am hesitant to double the depth of the
>counterbore since this seems more than "slightly" deeper. Bob Berube says I
>am the only one who has called about this (probably because I am a first time
>builder so I don't have a sense of what might cause trouble later so I try to
>err on the side of conservatism).
>
>In the same area, what is the typical clearance between the bolt ends holding
>the wing mounted bellcrank vs the CS14 mounted bellcrank? I have less than
>0.1in on the stbd side. Might these come in contact as the wings are inserted
>or will the lift pins prevent this?
>
>John, A044
>
In answer to your concern about the counterbore depth for the AN4-31A bolt,
you will need to counterbore to a depth of around 15mm, which I agree is
more than "slightly deeper than 5mm".
The pivot bolts of CS15 and W16 do end up very close to each other. Some
clearance is necessary, of course.
You may find that the bolt end of CS15's pivot will contact the edge of the
spar mounted bellcrank W16 unless the aileron is held in its neutral
position when rigging or derigging the wings.
Regards
Andy
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
I'm seriously interested in variable flaps, not so much for
landing as due to the fact that at an airfield elevation of 9100 ft. MSL
I'll need all the help I can get on takeoff, even with a 914 and magic
propeller (if I can ever afford either of those!).
Didn't YURO have a separate flap control? And, if so, was there
some scheme to work its outriggers from the gear handle, or were they
linked with the flaps? Perhaps someone from the factory could advise.
Alternatively, electric actuation of the outriggers--using
something like car window lift motors--doesn't look like an
insurmountable obstacle. I'd add tip skids as backup, though--I've had
my share of electrical problems.
Q: Why do you Brits drink your beer at room temperature?
A: Because you have Lucas refrigerators...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter M. Davis" <101621.3070(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Your time over again??? |
Hi Martin.
You wrote "When I trial fitted my rudder, it was too short by about half inch."
Glad to hear someone else had this interesting situation. When I telephoned Andy
& subsequently sent him some photos I was told I was the only one with this as
far as he was aware.
I took the alternative approach to this (after discussion with Andy) and raised
the bottom of the fuselage by cutting three long (200mmish), narrow wedge slots
in it - one at the bottom and one either side at approx. 60 degrees up from
bottom one, or whatever looks right.
After some fiddling and fixing, the "banana'd" back end is then pulled up to the
bottom of the rudder and glassed up on both sides. Will need some filling and
profiling soon.
Think I prefer your method though.
Regards,
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Bean <72016.641(at)compuserve.com> |
Just downloaded my mail and noted a number of comments on variable flap. The
DC10 has flaps that can be set from 0 to 22 degrees in 0.1 deg increments to
allow for optimum take off performance dependent on weight, weather, runway
lengths (TORA, TODA & EMDA) and numerous other factors. For the few destinations
we operate to the takeoff calculation set of tables is a substantial manual and
the calculations are independently cross checked by all 3 crew mwmbers. I don't
see how a variable flap would do much for the Europa's performance especialy
with the complications of the construction added to the performance
calculations.
I also have noted references to various items such as: rigging aids, modified
OR5's etc. Could someone put these ideas on paper and, for those of us (ME) who
are not too adept with this computer thing, put the info into our Flyer
magazine. So far the only items I seem to be able to get to and understand on
the 'net' is this site!
Whilst on about the 'net', I thought it was from an American origin - therefore
should not our spelling be in American English, not English English?
John Bean (Kit 23) and DC10 Flight Engineer
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | frederic.perissinotto(at)ping.be (perissinotto frederic) |
| Subject: | Re: Europa_Mail:Alodine or anodising ? |
hello
Is there someone who can help me with this dilemma ?
which anti-corrosion system in the best for an Europa ?
-Alodine(Henkel) plus zinc cromate and an epoxy finition
- or simply anodising ?
thanks for help
Perissinotto fred
# 77
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Your time over again??? |
>>You wrote "When I trial fitted my rudder, it was too short by about half
inch."<<
This confirms my feeling that it's difficult to locate points in space, like the
top of the fin. The main reason I went to the trouble of making a pre moulded
fin spar which allows you to trial fit the whole thing, then adjust until it all
fits together.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Vaeiable flap |
>> I thought it was from an American origin - therefore
should not our spelling be in American English, not English English?<<
Don't think the spelling reely matters. (IMHO) OTH the vocabulary may well cause
confusion. I've no objection to airplane, it's easier to type. ?:-o)
Your remarks re DC10 flap settings are interesting. You could probably do the
same with your Europa, if you develop the tables. I think I've said it before,
but if you feel confident enough with your reactions, there's no reason you
can't set the flaps where you want after take off. Just remember to relock the
gear if the donk coughs. Some time ago our leader showed me that the flaps will
stay anywhere you put them in flight. After take off and sufficient initial
climb to demonstrate the good intentions of the engine, I slowly retract the
flaps to around 15 degrees and continue the climb to a satisfactory height for
the mission. Generally that means fuly retract around 800 feet and cruise climb
to transit altitude.
Thinking again about take off tables, it would be wise to have an idea of
density altitude before setting off down the runway. Europas, being relatively
low power to weight ratio are more susceptible to the effects of temperature. I
can guarantee it's possible to stall at the moment of rotation for lift off.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
>>Q: Why do you Brits drink your beer at room temperature?
A: Because you have Lucas refrigerators...<<
Why do we also drink our red wine at room Temp and white wine chilled.
Answer,(incomplete) British (and Irish ) beer is as good as good red wine.
Walter Binder did something like you suggest. ( Electric O/R retraction) He must
have similar take off problems, his airplane is slightly overweight. Especially
if he has a glider on tow. I can't believe he'd tow a glass ship full of water,
but you never know.
Walter speaks little Englisch, I believe, does anyone here know him?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Martin J.Tuck" <102034.2747(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Your time over again??? Rudder fit. |
Re: Your time over again??? Rudder fit.
Thanks for your message Peter regarding your similar problem with an undersized
rudder and Andy's claim that they had never experienced the problem before ...
Ah ha!! You might be interested to know that Europa Aviation (US side) had the
same problem with their tri-gear! I seem to recall Bob Berube telling me they
refashioned the top of the rudder too.
I was interested to hear Europa's somewhat novel 'engineering' approach to the
problem to leave the rudder as - and remodel the fuselage - a bit like pulling
the kitchen table towards you if you find yourself sitting too far away from it!
Did they explain why they recommended this approach?
Regards
Martin Tuck
#152
Wichita, Kansas
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
Thanks for the info re Walter--as I speak German I'd like to get in touch
with him.
My experience w/ UK electrics is based largely on having owned a Dagenham
Dustbin (aka Cord Fartina) back in the '60s. Actually, as this one had
Lotus clockwork it went pretty well as long as the Lucas elec. fuel pump
wasn't u/s.
It occurred to me that rigging up some sort of spring arrangement between
the flaps and the outrigger mechanism might also work, i.e. going to full
flap (maybe as much as 40 deg.) would lock them down, they'd stay down at
20 deg., then retract when the flaps were raised from there on up. I
doubt that I'd need more than the two positions.
brgds, psl
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa_Mail:Alodine or anodising ? |
>
> Is there someone who can help me with this dilemma ?
> which anti-corrosion system in the best for an Europa ?
> -Alodine(Henkel) plus zinc cromate and an epoxy finition
> - or simply anodising ?
Anodise the parts if you can find somewhere that will do it to the
correct standard (see the builders manual), failing that Alodine and
System Three Anti Corrosion Primer is the way to go. Zinc Chromate is not good
for
your health and in many countries cannot be sold to unregistered
maintenance engineers as it is a known carcinogenic.
The System Three Anti Corrosion Primer is water reduceable, low
volitility (which it allows it to be sent by air post), and sticks
like you wouldn't believe to alodined surfaces.
If you do alodine you will also need some Deoxydine to etch the
aluminium beofre applying the alodine.
There are no companies in New Zealand providing the correct anodising
service so (unless you happen to work for a certain large airline) we
builders have to use alodine.
Once you have got used to it then applying alodine is not too
difficult. The key points are that you should scrub the parts with a
scotchbrite pad under running water until it is grease free. Etch
them for a few minutes in Deoxydine and then take them for a bath in
Alodine. As recommended by Henkel, you should then use another clean
batch of Alodine to finish the treatment off. When you pull the piece
from the second bath it will have a nice golden tan. Rinse it off and
let it dry.
Remember to dispose of your used Deoxydine and Alodine in a safe way.
They are both strong acids and do cause environmental damage.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
> I'm seriously interested in variable flaps, not so much for
> landing as due to the fact that at an airfield elevation of 9100 ft. MSL
> I'll need all the help I can get on takeoff, even with a 914 and magic
> propeller (if I can ever afford either of those!).
>
Some field! Do you have the same regulation in the US as in NZ
regarding oxygen masks? We have to wear them if we fly over 10,000
feet which means that a circuit at that field would require a mask to
be worn.
I imagine that even with the Europa's short field takeoff, a 914 and
all the flap it has then a takeoff at 9100 feet on a hot day could be
an interesting event.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
>In a message dated 14/02/97 11:45:09, you write:
>
>
>A separate flap lever with various setting on its gate, looks easy to
>implement as an optional mod.. I seem to remember it was discussed (or even
>tried) way back. Any reason why not, Andy?
>
We have flight tested the Europa using 30=B0 of flap and found that it will
tend to levitate before full aileron control is available, or refuse to land
until after aileron control has degraded - thus the 27=B0 limit to the
monowheel aircraft.
Using less flap tends only to increase take off or landing distance,
however you may find a better climb perofrmance; something hot and high
Andy
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Roddy.Kesterton(at)ft.com (Roddy Kesterton) |
The last issue of the europa flyer mentioned that we may be able to
use the curing ovens at the college at Shoreham. Does anyone have a
contact name/number for this? If I can arrange use, does anyone else
want to share an ovenload (I have a full set of flying surfaces to
cook).
Roddy Kesterton (#220)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
Hi, Tony--
First of all, let me complement you on your Website--it's
fabulous, and I've immensely enjoyed the saga of your Europa. If I ever
get to NZ again I'd love to see it in the flesh. (Last time I was there
it was to pick up a Marchetti near Wellington and ferry it back to the
states--ended up pranging in Greenland when it threw a rod right after
takeoff, but that's another story).
Telluride Regional Airport isn't really all that bad a field: the
runway is 6900 feet long (being a ski and tourist area, we get various
private jets up to G-IV, etc.). Threshold at one end is 9086', at the
other 9063, and there's a dip down to 9013 about two thirds of the way
down, so occasionally some lightplane pilot will find the runway
outclimbing him. If you can stagger into the air off RW 27 you instantly
have over 1000 feet of altitude as you pass over the edge of the cliff on
which the airport is located...
It'll be interesting to see how a Europa performs up here--I hope
I can lure ex- G-ELSA in on one of its trips to someplace like the
Arlington or Copperstate airshows. I've flown a Valentin Taifun
motorglider out of here with the original 83-hp non-leanable Limbach, and
its performance was quite underwhelming.
I imagine a turbo engine and variable pitch prop will be a sine
qua non up here. At present the R-914 seems to be the leading candidate
despite the shocking price; quite apart from the weight, I've had enough
bad experience with Subaru engines in cars to be less than confident of
them for aero use. On the other hand, at the laughable rate I've been
bulding (my house is at 9650', and on cold days even the best and most
expensive efforts of my shop heating system can't keep the place at
glassing temperatures), perhaps the 150-hp Zoche aerodiesel will be
available by the time I'm ready for an engine! I've run it on the test
stand in Germany--150 turbocharged hp and it weighs less than a 914!
best regards, PSL
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Zoche, (was Variable flaps (was OR5) |
Peter S. Lert wrote:
>
> perhaps the 150-hp Zoche aerodiesel will be
> available by the time I'm ready for an engine! I've run it on the test
> stand in Germany--150 turbocharged hp and it weighs less than a 914!
Now you really can't let it go at that ! Tell us more about
the
Zoche ! LAst time I saw it was 1993 Oshkosh and it looked very
lonely, standing there all by itself with no display round it ! Has it
flown yet ?
Regards,
Martin
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | frederic.perissinotto(at)ping.be (perissinotto frederic) |
| Subject: | Re: Europa_Mail:Alodine or anodising ? |
>
>>
>> Is there someone who can help me with this dilemma ?
>> which anti-corrosion system in the best for an Europa ?
>> -Alodine(Henkel) plus zinc cromate and an epoxy finition
>> - or simply anodising ?
>
>Anodise the parts if you can find somewhere that will do it to the
>correct standard (see the builders manual), failing that Alodine and
>System Three Anti Corrosion Primer is the way to go. Zinc Chromate is not
good for
>your health and in many countries cannot be sold to unregistered
>maintenance engineers as it is a known carcinogenic.
>
>The System Three Anti Corrosion Primer is water reduceable, low
>volitility (which it allows it to be sent by air post), and sticks
>like you wouldn't believe to alodined surfaces.
>
>If you do alodine you will also need some Deoxydine to etch the
>aluminium beofre applying the alodine.
>
>There are no companies in New Zealand providing the correct anodising
>service so (unless you happen to work for a certain large airline) we
>builders have to use alodine.
>
>Once you have got used to it then applying alodine is not too
>difficult. The key points are that you should scrub the parts with a
>scotchbrite pad under running water until it is grease free. Etch
>them for a few minutes in Deoxydine and then take them for a bath in
>Alodine. As recommended by Henkel, you should then use another clean
>batch of Alodine to finish the treatment off. When you pull the piece
>from the second bath it will have a nice golden tan. Rinse it off and
>let it dry.
>
>Remember to dispose of your used Deoxydine and Alodine in a safe way.
>They are both strong acids and do cause environmental damage.
>
>Tony
Dear Tony
Thank you very much for your advice.If Iam understanding you well, you think
that it's enough to make only anodising as a system anti-corrosion.In fact
for me
it's more easy that way because I know a factory which can this job properly in
my area.
thanks
fred
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Zoche, (was Variable flaps (was OR5) |
So far as I know, it hasn't flown yet, although by now it may have on a
couple of applications (both, again so far as I know, the two-row 8-cyl
300 hp version). One, which may have been shelved, was a good-sized
airship designed as an ECM/ASW platform by Westinghouse and various other
subcontractors. The other came about after Zoche found out how much
money Porsche wanted to rent the all-attitude engine test stand
originally developed for the PFM--at which point they simply crated up an
engine and shipped it off to Walter Extra for installation in an Extra
300.
The engine has gone through various iterations; by now, the ones
you see on the display at OSH are built in production tooling. The basic
line is the 300-hp 8 cyl, 150-hp 4 cyl, and a 70-hp V-twin, all using the
same cylinders, pistons, con rods (with unique big end treatment, all
running on the same crank journal), etc. The 8-cyl weighs 260 lb ready
to run, the 4-cyl about 180 due to the larger proportion of weight in the
irreducible "basic infrastructure" parts (crank and case, etc.). It's a
compound supercharged engine with both mechanical and turbo blowers.
Starting is via compressed air (from a composite flask about the size of
a football), blown into the mechanical supercharger and thus backdriving
the crank via the blower gear train.
What was most impressive on the test stand was, first of all,
starting: there's no perceptible starting process, the engine just goes
from "at rest" to "running" in about the first 60 deg. of prop blade
travel. In fact, you could start it at full throttle if you wanted. The
other thing that impressed me was its uncanny smoothness (hardly what
you'd expect from a Diesel): this one is a two-stroke, so you get four
power pulses per rev--twice as many as from a conventional 4-cyl engine.
Best SFC is given at around .365, which means that throttled back to 75%
power (a "mere" 112.5 hp), it'll burn about 6.1 US gph of Jet-A (or #2
automotive Diesel) per hour.
The major problem I see in putting one in Europa (assuming it
becomes available) is prop geometry. Since it's a 90-deg 4-cyl radial,
even canted so the cyls are at a 45-degree angle the prop line is several
inches lower w/ respect to the top of the engine than it would be with a
Rotax. It might require a stubby, wide-chord prop to absorb the power.
Alternatively, one might have to cobble up a 1:1 belt-type "non
reduction" drive to get the prop line back up.
Zoche has a Website; http://193.26.97.194/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Davis <101621.3070(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Shorham curing oven |
Roddy Kesterton asked - " Does anyone have a contact name/number for this?"
The guy who showed us around was Mark Thorogood and from what he was saying I
got the idea that he might well be the person to got in touch with first.
Failing which I am sure he will be able to pass you on to the right quarters.
Northbrook college number is 01903 231445. I presume this is the switchboard.
Regards,
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Davis <101621.3070(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Your time over again??? Rudder fit. |
Martin - What's wrong with moving the table?
This approach was arrived at over the telephone and I dare say that if a bit
more time was given to it we may have ended up with elongating the rudder.
However, horses for courses and all that, and in the end I dare say it will make
little difference, although my way gives you an insite into the stiffness of the
fuselage when you try and pull the sections into shape prior to re-glassing.
I suppose you will be telling me next that when you stir a cup of coffee you
don't hold the spoon still and rotate the cup?
Regards,
Peter
P.S. A thought - we could probably have overcome all this by setting the rudder
half way and applying 5mm thick filler to both top and bottom to profile it in.
Would have meant less cutting away at the top too..!??!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Davis <101621.3070(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa_Mail:Alodine or anodising ? |
There is a lot of talk about anodizing, and all that. I am one of the people who
have mentally put this to one side for the time being but have now come to the
point where it should be addressed.
Being of limited brain power I fine it difficult to understand these various
anodizing terms, and now I see the word 'Anodine' too!
Has anyone thought about coating the bits with redux? Maybe a bit primitive but
could it be effective?
Regards,
Peter
P.S. My new modem works a treat! You only realise you had a duff one when you
get a good-un.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Krzyzewski <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa_Mail:Alodine or anodising ? |
> Dear Tony
>
> Thank you very much for your advice.If Iam understanding you well, you think
> that it's enough to make only anodising as a system anti-corrosion.In fact
> for me
> it's more easy that way because I know a factory which can this job properly
in
> my area.
>
> thanks
> fred
>
I would also suggest you still put on a coat of primer over the anodised surface.
Priming
the surface provides another layer of protection over the anodising (and makes
the part look nice).
Anodising, like alodyning, is only a surface treatment. If you drill though the
piece or have to reshape the edge for any reason then you will of course lose the
treatment
in that area. You may want to have some alodyne available to retreat the edges
if you do that.
If you want to really protect your plane you should also use Duralac when assembling
nuts and bolts. This
reduces electrolytic corrosion within the screw holes.
Make sure your anodising is to the standard specified in the manual. I know of
a builder of another
aircraft who took his aluminium parts down to an anodiser who hard anodised the
parts a gold colour
as it looked the same as all the bits he had seen on an aircraft. As a result he
had to replace all
of his aluminium components!!
Tony
--------------------------------------------------------
Date: 02/20/97
Time: 09:54:49 New Zealand Summer Time (UTC +13)
Kaon Technologies - Building Tomorrow's Networks
PO Box 9830
Newmarket
Auckland Ph +64 9 358 9124
New Zealand Fx +64 9 358 9127
Visit http://www.kaon.co.nz
--------------------------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
psl wrote:
>It occurred to me that rigging up some sort of spring arrangement between
>the flaps and the outrigger mechanism might also work, i.e. going to full
>flap (maybe as much as 40 deg.) would lock them down, they'd stay down at
>20 deg., then retract when the flaps were raised from there on up. I
>doubt that I'd need more than the two positions.
This is my point in the first place. The reason for the slot in
OR5 is to cope with a range of flap settings without unlatching the
OR (std OR5, c. 20 - 30deg) the spring in normal circumstances
latches the OR at about 20deg, however (whoops - a great big tree
has just fallen over in the garden) if it gets stuck with the std
max at 27deg... see my earlier posts.
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <72770.552(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | bes - fact and fiction |
>>>I just helped a friend install Whelens on a LongEZ. The
>>>Whelen book said these exact things. Use the strobes
>>>regularly or the capacitor may need to be reformed.
>>>Instructions are included for reforming.
Larry, can you quote us the specific instructions that
Whelen publishes for "reforming"
>>I have read the same thing. I think it even says this in the
>>owners manual or warrenty info you get with your strobes.
>> I had mine stored for about 3 yrs and they still worked OK so I
>>don't think it is a major problem.
>>This is the classic case of 'use it or loose it'.
> Where did you get your facts for this piece of information? I have a set of
> new Whelan's that won't be used for a while yet. I've never heard of this.
> Maybe Bob Nuckolls would care to comment?
Sure. This is a piece of hagar-lore that has been fertilized too much.
Strobe light systems in airplanes and cameras are brothers. They utilize
a hollow tube filled with xenon gas and fitted with electrodes at each
end of the tube. A high (300-500 volt) dc potential is placed on the
two electrodes. A third electrode is not even stuck through the glass,
it's simply a wire or band wound around the outside of the glass. The third
electrode is "spiked" with a 2,000 to 5,000 volt pulse (from a tiny coil
that acts like an ignition coil for a VERY small engine) the xenon gas is
driven into conduction and begins to emit an intense, white (acually multi-
colored) light.
The ENERGY in that flash of light is determined by the size of an electrolytic
capacitor and the voltage to which it is charged. The general equation for
energy in a capacitance storage system is C*E*E/2=J where C is capacitance
in Farads, E is volts and J is watt-seconds or Joules. Let's say we're
going to charge a 100 microFarad capacitor to 330 volts. 330 squared times
100 times 10 to the minus 6th power divided by 2 is 5.45 Joules. If the
capacitor is allowed to charge completely between flashes -AND- if the
tube is in good shape, one may expect a 5 joule flash per ignition. Further,
if one wished to get 10 joules per flash, either the size of the capacitor
has to be doubled -OR- the voltage must be raised by about 40%.
Electrolytic capacitors have been around for about 60 years. Back in the
vacuum tube days, all electronic devices required elevated voltages in
the 100 to 300 volt range and capacitors with high voltage ratings were
very common for power supply hum filtering. Nowadays, photoflash systems
are one of the very few systems that still use this venerable technology.
The capacitors are formed by winding two long, thin strips of alluminum up
in a jelly-roll like configuration with a chemical coating between the layers.
When the assembly is complete, a voltage is applied which causes chemical
changes to take place making one connection (+) and the other (-) with
respect to applied voltage. The chemistry also becomes the media in which
electrons are stored. It is true that LONG periods of inactivity should
be avoided for this chemistry to achieve and maintain peak performance.
Back in my early amateur radio days, it was not uncommon to find an old
capacitor whos value had dropped by 50% or more due to inactivity. Further,
it's leakage (losses) current went up.
The fix was to apply rated voltage to the capacitor through a large (100,000
ohm resistor) for up to a day. The resistor would limit current flow
while the power supply gently stirred the chemistry back to life. In a
period of time ranging from hours to days, the capacitor's leakage will
have gone down and it's capacitance would be up.
Modern electrolytics have a "shelf life" rated in years. When I fire
up a stobe system who's vintage and utilization are unknown, I'll run
some quick leakage checks on the capacitors just to be sure they're
not going to overheat. Then, I might cycle the strobe system up with
low bus voltage (9-10 volts) for a few hours and then raise it up to
normal over the next four or five hours. This is an EXTREME measure
that I've seldom had to apply. For the most part, if I know a strobe
system has been inactive for many years . . . I'll simply replace the
capacitors. They're probably dried somewhat and they DO have a service/
storage life limit.
For a new system to require monthly attention is absurd. If a manufacturer
recommends this, you need to write and question their capacitor source.
I suspect it's easier to predict the worst and require the most of customers
for care and feeding of their product - it may help at warranty adjustment
time but if I were building stobe systems, I'd use a good quality photo
flash capacitor and ask my customers to put their system into service
within two years.
Any new system should come out of the starting gate just fine from a
storage period of 2 years. If one measures the light output from
a strobe system that's been in storage, the light output may be down
a few percent but it will recover nicely in the first few hours of usage.
Hope this helps chase a few "gremlins" from the workshop.
Regards,
Bob . . .
AeroElectric Connection
////
(o o)
| |
| Go ahead, make my day . . . . |
| Show me where I'm wrong. |
72770.552ompuserve.com
http:\\www.aeroelectric.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim_thursby(at)simphonics.com (Jim Thursby) |
| Subject: | ron/Flap junction. |
A question for those who have completed their wings. With everything on
top of the wing looking flat, (at the aileron/flap area) on the bottom of
the wing the trailing edge matches, but the leading edge of the flap is
approximately 1/4 inch thicker. Is this normal for this? Everything else
fits good on the wing except this. Any info appreciated.
Thanks,
Jim Thursby
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Davis <101621.3070(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
Evening, Richard M-H.
You wrote - "The reason for the slot in OR5 is to cope with a range of flap
settings without unlatching the OR".
I thought that the reason for the slot was to isolate the flaps from the
outrigger when latched down so's all that rumble and knocking is not transferred
through the flaps to all the other undercarriage mechanism, lever, overstop,
etc.
I also thought about shortening the slot to assist in getting the flaps down but
on reflection felt that retaining the flap isolating system may be a "Good
Thing".
I was about to paste something along these lines when the subject first arose
about sticky mechanisms etc, but just before I could hit the send button my hard
disk decided to join the others in the sky.
Come to think of it, I wonder if this is where Terrt Pratchett got his idea for
his Disk World novels?
But, still interested in all these ideas.
Hope the tree didn't do too much damage!
Regards,
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnJMoran(at)aol.com |
I am nearing completion of the cockpit module and am considering adding a
Nav-Aid autopilot. Has anyone installed one? Will the servo fit on the seat
back above the pitch cross tube without interfering or getting bashed when
the spars are inserted?
Any details on installation would be most welcome, particularly how it is
connected to the aileron control system.
On an allied subject, Bob Berube advised me that the self aligning bearings
(EUR009) for the pitch cross tube are greaseless. I used the dry graphite
available at auto stores to good effect before installation. However, I found
that the bolts used to mount CS09 to the seat back were so close to the bend
that they caused the bracket to introduce an end load when the bolts were
tightened despite the fact that the seat back was quite flat in this area.
This end load caused noticible friction in the pitch axis. Bedding the CS09's
in flox cured this and reduced the pitch friction (seat module only) to
negligible.
Thanks in advance for any AP advice.
John, A044
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | CPattinson(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Nav-Aid AP ?? |
No, we havent installed one yet (Nav Aid Autopilot), but we have had one on
the workshop shelf for the last year or so.
Its all very well to hide the servo unit away in the guts of the aircraft but
you do have to twiddle some pots (in the servo box) when you are setting it
up so hiding it away is a silly idea. Much better to mount it just in front
of the pilots thigh support (on the floor or side of tunnel. It is then a
simple matter to connect the servo link rod to the side of the pilots control
stick fork assembly. A small fork on the end of the bolt AN5-23 should do the
trick.
Mounting it this way it is fully accessible and a small cover over the link
rod and servo unit will protect the assembly from being kicked.
This method does of course render one of the storage areas under the seat
inaccessible.
I believe this is the method that David Dufton used on G-OURO which did fly
but is now being converted to Tri- Gear.
Incidentally I understand the newer Nav Aid units will interface directly to
Skyforce 2 moving maps. Unfortunately the older ones like mine need a box
from Skyforce costing about #200. I believe it is to convert the digital
signal from the Skyforce to analogue (as used by the older Nav Aids.
Hope this helps
Carl P
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Aileron/Flap junction. |
>> but the leading edge of the flap is approximately 1/4 inch thicker. Is this
normal for this?<<
Have the trailing edge close outs shrunk and closed up a bit?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nav-Aid AP ?? |
>>Nav-Aid autopilot. Has anyone installed one? <<
Yes and I can recommend it. I've fitted a couple to Long EZs too. Very useful
piece of kit.
Best place is to mount it on the central console, just underneath the
passenger's knees, a simple bracket made from 2"X1" aluminum angle is bolted to
the bottom fork to take the ball joint at the push rod end.
Some people have fitted them under the seat, but IMHO this creates problems
clamping to the bottom torque tube to begin with and taking the servo cover off
for setting up.
When you install the cockpit module, try and avoid distortion, friction
introduced in the Tufnol bearings will be a real pain to cure. There will be
pain lining up the quick connect pivot bolts. Install and set up the wing lift
pins before putting the top on.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Your time over again??? Rudder fit. |
>problem with an undersized rudder<
I had a gap of some 10 mm at the bottom , and likewise cut longitudinal 12"
V-slots in the lower fuselage end. It resisted deformation even with the
cuts in, but succumbed to "dropping" the tail into a u-shaped former and
re-glassing.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
In a message dated 03/02/97 16:51:27, you write:
>Check to see if the p-leads--the ones from the ignition units to the
>"mag" switch--are shielded. If not, shield 'em. Keep all your audio
>leads as far away from that switch as you can.
A bit old this thread, but I was suspicious of this answer because these
leads are open circuit when the engine is running. The only current that can
flow in them is charging the capacitance of the wire to ground, which is
virtually zero (might go up a bit to "negligible" if you shield them !). But
Rotax quite clearly say they must be shielded. Only a layout diagram was
forthcoming (p128, Rotax 912 maintenance manual) which doesn't identify the
components inside. But after all, this is transistorised ignition, so the
leads are control lines to bias the units off when grounded. When running,
the only reason for shielding them could be the possibility of undesirable
inputs, rather than outputs. So the shielding will not help an audio problem
but could stop a high power transmitter stopping your engine !
Roger at the factory confirms this actually happened not long ago. Makes one
wonder how many more things are waiting to get us. Perhaps the air is really
strictly for the birds.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter S. Lert" <peterlert(at)montrose.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
Of course the leads are open circuit when the engine's running--but if
they can work as receiving antennas to shut the engine down via stray RF
from a high-powered transmitter, they can work just as well as
transmitting antennas for any electrical noise running around in the
primary side of the ignition system.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Reter Davis wrote;
>
>You wrote - "The reason for the slot in OR5 is to cope with a range of flap
>settings without unlatching the OR".
>
>I thought that the reason for the slot was to isolate the flaps from the
>outrigger when latched down so's all that rumble and knocking is not transferred
>through the flaps to all the other undercarriage mechanism, lever, overstop,
>etc.
It does, to a degree, but once the OR is latched OR5 shouldn't move
. It would appear the slot was designed for a 30deg max flap
setting which is too much as you run out of aileron authority, it
was reduced to 26 / 27 but new OR5's weren't sent out as it seems
to work OK. (A stiffer spring was sent out though to everyone
below about kit 50, we're 47 and I think it was the first mod we
ever got) it was standard after that.
I am making new OR5's to get an idiotproof latching at 26.5deg.
>
>I also thought about shortening the slot to assist in getting the flaps down but
>on reflection felt that retaining the flap isolating system may be a "Good
>Thing".
The slot needs, in fact must, be only slightly shorter, about 2 - 3
mm. otherwise the flaps will lock at OR latching position (c. 20
deg) and not where they are supposed to be.
>
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Graham C wrote:
...... So the shielding will not help an audio problem
>but could stop a high power transmitter stopping your engine !
>
>Roger at the factory confirms this actually happened not long ago. Makes one
>wonder how many more things are waiting to get us. Perhaps the air is really
>strictly for the birds.
>
This is one of the very few mandatory mods ever to be issued for
the 912.
On this subject, if you have the plugs out on a 912, DO NOT turn
over the engine with the plug leads in the air, always have them
grounded, say to a plug contacting the case. I saw someone do this
and it killed one of the ignition boxes, a new one costs something
like #400...
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Nav-Aid AP ?? |
>>Mounting it this way it is fully accessible and a small cover over the link
rod and servo unit will protect the assembly from being kicked.<<
Suitably shaped the small cover provides a very comfortable extension to the
otherwise too shart thigh support.
>> Unfortunately the older ones like mine need a box from Skyforce costing about
#200.<<
Navaid will put you in touch with a guy who can do a small box for $150 to do
the same job.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
>> Perhaps the air is really strictly for the birds.<<
Dunno, they would still get cooked if they flew too close to a transmitter (/
microwave).
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Kavanagh <Kavanagh(at)mailbox.uq.edu.au> |
can anyone send me any info on
- surface protection
- Sacrificial protection
- Cathodic protection using electricity
- alloying
- anodising
thanks
kavanagh(at)mailbox.uq.edu.au
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
In a message dated 21/02/97 05:05:06, you write:
>they can work just as well as
>transmitting antennas for any electrical noise running around in the
>primary side of the ignition system.
Not if the frequency ranges are different. If the noise spectrum "running
around the primary side" is wide enough to reach the region where leads of
this length act as efficient radiators (100Mhz up) the only way they could
affect the audio is by saturating some non-linear element in the front end
of the receiver. That's much more likely from the power and rise times you
have in the output lines (we used to make quite good radar jammers with
spark plugs ). If the input is just a gate, then a capacitor could be used
to kill all high frequencies there. Might be worth trying that, but it would
be better to know the internal circuit details first, it might be an
amplifier stage !
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
In a message dated 21/02/97 23:53:48, you write:
>if you have the plugs out on a 912, DO NOT turn
>over the engine with the plug leads in the air,
Don't turn it over if they're in either, if you've put fuel in and haven't
installed the instrument module !. You need to have a grounding lead pair
handy. I understand the latest handbook mentions this hazard now..
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
In a message dated 22/02/97 00:04:38, you write:
> they would still get cooked if they flew too close to a transmitter
Ah, but if we weren't occupying their airspace there would be no high power
radars trying to fry them.
While on the subject of high power, I have now quite a few recorded gps
tracks from trips up and down the country showing gaps which can be
associated with ground transmitter sites. It occurs to me that if all
fliers sent in their tracks to a central agency, they could be overlaid to
show the regions of doubtful coverage (but I'm not volunteering !).
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | egeeing Between Plies??? |
Gidday,
Layed up the first skin of the rudder this morning. Yes, I am way behind
the bunch, but I'm good over middle/long distances! Still not decided as to
whether I should be squeegeeing between plies. I weighed my fin recently and
it was 1500 grams which I believe is average, which doesn't help any, as on
the first side I didn't squeegee and the second side I did.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
The Aussie Connection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | isation Removal from Aluminium Components |
Gidday all,
Just spent the last few hours trying various grades of wet and dry sandpaper
to remove the oxydisation and some old pen marks from my rudder hinges prior
to metal parts treatment. I specifically used a water soluble marker to make
this process easier in the future, and boy was I dissapointed when I tried
to wash it off! Water/Acetone/Turps, nup, nothing worked. So out with the
sandpaper.My question is:"will the Alumiprep/Iridite/or Deoxydine products
will actually remove this without the elbow grease? Am I wasting my time?
What I have noticed is that the buildup of oxydisation on these components
is significant. Having no experience with aluminium preparation before, I
originally thought the hinges looked in not bad condition. The airline spec
I am using mentions a cleanliness check which has been mentioned on other
occasions in this forum, called the water break free check. For anyone not
familiar with this term it states: "Stand item with the surface to be tested
approximately in the vertical position. Flood area with water. Stop the flow
of water. The film of water should not break or retreat from any part of the
surface for 30 seconds after the flow of water has ceased."
This water break-free check I feel sure would fail without either polishing
the hinges with finer and finer grades of sandpaper, or a chemical treatment.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Newton's Third Law of Motion is playing havoc with my fingertips on the
sandpaper.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
The Aussie Connection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Ambiguities???? |
Hello all,
Have been quite surprised by 2 recect messages, which I would like opinion on.
The first is attached below, and simply requires builders to countersink a
hole through the spar from 5mm on one wing to 15 mm on the other. Now I
measured my spar and it appears to be 30 mm thick, or thereabouts. So to
accomodate the length of bolt supplied we builders have to countersink using
a "19mm spadebit" ( a BIG hole!), a further 10 mm to a depth of 1/2 the
spar. Now maybe I am misunderstanding something, and if so someone please
tell me, politely will be fine ( I get the message pretty quickly), but
wouldn't a longer bolt fix this problem! I feel this puts me in quite a
dilemna, as my Overseeing/Statutory Authority will not let me do other than
what is in the manual, and such a divergence would be considered more than
as described in the manual as "slightly deeper". (This is not "double" the
depth otherwise it would say so, let alone "triple" the recommended depth!)
I request the manual be ammended to incorporate such a divergence, or a new
component to rectify this anomoly, or at the very least a newsletter
reference to authenticate such a procedure, implying company backing of the
removal of such a large amount of spar, no doubt with due consideration for
such a significant structural mod.
The second topic was the one where a factory endorsed fix for a short rudder
was to slice the fuselage in several locations and pull it up to match the
rudder. The only opinion I have read about this method was very well put,
and in my opinion quite restrained, something to do with a kitchen table.
. I want to know if this is a common occurence or not? If so, it would beg
the simple question" why", which I am most keen to know as it will simply
tell me if my efforts today were in vain!
Excerpt No.1
Re: Your time over again??? Rudder fit.
From: europa aviation ltd <enquiries(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Bolt Lengths
>In mounting the quick connect bellcranks to the wing, I found that the port
>bolt seems too short unless the counterbore is substantially deeper than the
>5mm specified. I calculate the bolt lengths required as follows:
>
> Port Stbd
>
>Spar 1.256 1.276 Includes 3 layers of bid added
>each side
>S03 1.273
>3 Washers .173 .173
>BC4W10 .560 .560
>Nut .210 .210
>2 Threads .050 .050
> -.200 -.200 Counterbore reduces length
>required
> ------ -------
> 3.322 2.069
>The bolts supplied were: port = AN4-31A, stbd = AN4-20A. The port bolt
>supplied is 0.2in shorter than I expected while the starboard bolt agrees
>with the calculated length. In practice, the starboard bolt is fine and the
>port bolt does not go all the way through the nut. The manual indicates that
>the port counterbore may need to be slightly deeper that the starboard
>counterbore, possibly to accommodate this.
>>So, has anyone else run into this? I am hesitant to double the depth of the
>counterbore since this seems more than "slightly" deeper. Bob Berube says I
>am the only one who has called about this (probably because I am a first time
>builder so I don't have a sense of what might cause trouble later so I try to
>err on the side of conservatism).
>>In the same area, what is the typical clearance between the bolt ends holding
>the wing mounted bellcrank vs the CS14 mounted bellcrank? I have less than
>0.1in on the stbd side. Might these come in contact as the wings are inserted
>or will the lift pins prevent this?
>
>xxxx
>
In answer to your concern about the counterbore depth for the AN4-31A bolt,
you will need to counterbore to a depth of around 15mm, which I agree is
more than "slightly deeper than 5mm".
The pivot bolts of CS15 and W16 do end up very close to each other. Some
clearance is necessary, of course.
You may find that the bolt end of CS15's pivot will contact the edge of the
spar mounted bellcrank W16 unless the aileron is held in its neutral
position when rigging or derigging the wings.
Regards
xxxx-------------------------------------
Excerpt No. 2.
Thanks for your message regarding your similar problem with an undersized
rudder and Andy's claim that they had never experienced the problem before ...
Ah ha!! You might be interested to know that Europa Aviation (US side) had the
same problem with their tri-gear! I seem to recall Bob Berube telling me they
refashioned the top of the rudder too.
Hi xxxx
You wrote "When I trial fitted my rudder, it was too short by about half inch."
Glad to hear someone else had this interesting situation. When I telephoned Andy
& subsequently sent him some photos I was told I was the only one with this as
far as he was aware.
I took the alternative approach to this (after discussion with Andy) and raised
the bottom of the fuselage by cutting three long (200mmish), narrow wedge slots
in it - one at the bottom and one either side at approx. 60 degrees up from
bottom one, or whatever looks right.
After some fiddling and fixing, the "banana'd" back end is then pulled up to the
bottom of the rudder and glassed up on both sides. Will need some filling and
profiling soon.
Think I prefer your method though.
Regards,
xxxxx
ANY OPINIONS/VIEWS/ADVICE???
P.S. I would like to be able to uplink without always sticking my head up?
How do I do this?
P.S.S. Sorry about the length of message!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | jim_thursby(at)simphonics.com (Jim Thursby) |
| Subject: | Re: Squeegeeing Between Plies??? |
----------
> From: Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au>
> Subject: Squeegeeing Between Plies???
> Date: Saturday, February 22, 1997 1:06 AM
> Tony, I took my fin and weighed it at 1462.4 grams. Bob Berube has been
assisting me in my project, and yes, he recommends squeegeeing between all
plys. That weight is with the foam closeouts and peel ply still in the fin.
Hope this helps.
>
Jim Thursby
List is supported by Aviators Network UK - info(at)avnet.co.ukk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Watson <dmw(at)querandi.demon.co.uk> |
Tony Renshaw wrote:
Gidday,
Could someone please uplink the RS Component Co's address details.
Thanks in anticipation.
Why not try Farnell Components, they are more international and carry a greater
stock in Oz, they are the biggest distributors in the world!
In the UK and the USA they have 170 000 products available. Farnell product can
be obtained ex-stock in the USA from Newark Inc in Chicargo or one of its 80
branches.
Look at there web sites for availability in 12 countries, URL's are:
www.premierfarnell.co.uk
www.farnellcomponents.co.uk
www.farnellcomponents.com
Farnell can be contacted in Australia at the following address:
Farnell Components
72 Ferndell Street
Chester Hill
NSW 2162
Phone: 02 645 8888
Fax: 02 644 7898
Dave and Margaret Watson
(#224 G-CUTY Tri-gear)
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Watson <dmw(at)querandi.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Shorham curing oven |
Roddy Kesterton asked - " Does anyone have a contact name/number for this?"
The guy who showed us around was Mark Thorogood and from what he was saying I
got the idea that he might well be the person to got in touch with first.
Failing which I am sure he will be able to pass you on to the right quarters.
Northbrook college number is 01903 231445. I presume this is the switchboard.
Mark Thorogood is the person to contact at Northbrook College, we had our 'bits'
done during the last Europa Club Seminar, cost 30GBP for the use of the oven
for 10 hours. Two of us shared.
Dave and Margaret Watson
(#224 G-CUTY Tri-gear)
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
>
> While on the subject of high power, I have now quite a few recorded gps
> tracks from trips up and down the country showing gaps which can be
> associated with ground transmitter sites. It occurs to me that if all
> fliers sent in their tracks to a central agency, they could be overlaid to
> show the regions of doubtful coverage (but I'm not volunteering !).
You can have some New Zealand ones if you want :-)
My gps gets knocked out by one of the television transmitters on my
preferred route south out of Auckland.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland & Wilma Carson <rowil(at)gn.apc.org> |
| Subject: | pa Club subs by credit card |
At last we are set up for credit cards (Mastercard or Visa). At present all
transactions have to be processed through the Membership Secretary (me) so
the facility can only be used for subs & back numbers. Seminar fees still
have to be paid by cheque (payable to "The Europa Club"), and sent to the
Social Secretary.
I have notified by direct e-mail all those I am aware of who are waiting to
pay their Club subs by credit card. Anyone else who wants to have the new
application form allowing credit card payment, please ask for it!
PLEASE NOTE the following security warning:
I advise against sending your credit card number in a plain-text e-mail. If
you do so, I am prepared to process your application as if it were by phone
(since there will be no signature); but NOTE that neither the Club nor any
of its Officers will be liable for anything that may happen as a result of
your number becoming known to any third party, or for any compromise of
your account security.
cheers
Rowland
... that's Rowland with a 'w' ...
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Ambiguities???? |
I feel this puts me in quite a
> dilemna, as my Overseeing/Statutory Authority will not let me do other than
> what is in the manual, and such a divergence would be considered more than
> as described in the manual as "slightly deeper".
When is OZ going to join the real world and implement an EAA style
approvals system as we have in NZ. At least we have to choice of
deciding what we want to do to our planes and gives us the freedom to
surround ourselves with experts we can freely call on for advices. It
also gives us the choice of "improving" on the basic design if we so
desire thus advancing aviation technology.
This attitude can be shown to the extreme. When Boeing and Cathay
Pacific were doing test flights of the 777 to New Zealand with Rolls
Royce jets you could see, clearly visible over the front passenger
port side door, the word "EXPERIMENTAL" in letters no less than 50mm
high.
Oops, sorry, forgot this wan't a chat line. I agree, a longer bolt
would seem to be a much better answer.
Of course in the US and NZ we can simply substitute the one supplied if we desire
:-)
Tony
27 celcius, 88 % humidity. No epoxy work today :-(
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham E Laucht <graham(at)ukavid.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
In message <970221202026_1812486234(at)emout14.mail.aol.com>,
Gramin(at)aol.com writes
>In a message dated 22/02/97 00:04:38, you write:
>
>> they would still get cooked if they flew too close to a transmitter
>
>Ah, but if we weren't occupying their airspace there would be no high power
>radars trying to fry them.
>
>While on the subject of high power, I have now quite a few recorded gps
>tracks from trips up and down the country showing gaps which can be
>associated with ground transmitter sites. It occurs to me that if all
>fliers sent in their tracks to a central agency, they could be overlaid to
>show the regions of doubtful coverage (but I'm not volunteering !).
This is a snip of something I wrote on the subject about four years ago
which is still largely relevant today.
startclip
Users of GPS systems operating on the "Civil" L2 C/A downlink frequency
of 1575.42 Mhz should be aware that operation close by or near to a
number of high power transmitter sites will experience irrational
behaviour with their equipment. Very often this will take the form of a
sudden degradation of accuracy or the dreaded "poor GPS coverage"
message.
The reason is that UHF TV stations radiate energy at between 470 and 854
Mhz at power levels up to 1000kW ERP. Their siting on high ground means
we might be flying level with the antenna and therefore in the area of
most intense energy. An inevitable consequence of radio frequency
generation and amplification is the production of harmonic energy which
is normally suppressed by filtration yet can still be of a high enough
level to disturb GPS receivers. The highly sensitive front end of
satellite receivers will be overwhelmed by the offending RF energy
swamping the ephemeris data and timing information necessary for
position and velocity calculations.
UHF transmitters, because of their wide bandwidth, operating around
channels 60 (783-789Mhz) and 27 (519-525Mhz) will be particularly
susceptible to harmonic and intermodulation product interference
especially if the site is the main serving station for the area. These
would include Dover, Heathfield, Midhurst, Oxford, Beacon Hill, Huntshaw
Cross, Mendip, Blaenplwyf, Waltham, Sandy Heath, Tacolneston, Carmel,
Llandonna, Winter Hill, Pontop Pike, Selkirk, Angus and Limavady.
A vast number of relay transmitters also radiate on these channels but
at much reduced power levels (1-500W ERP) though even these may cause
temporary degradation of accuracy.
Quite apart from the obvious physical danger of transiting close to a
high mast a number of the sites are close to regulated airspace where
navigation errors may inadvertently place you in conflict. Notable
amongst these are Mendip, Oxford, Midhurst and Winter Hill where VFR
routing outside of controlled airspace is bound to pass closer to a site
than is desirable. From experience passing closer than three miles will
in most cases cause a significant loss of reliability. Much also depends
on the passing level as the radiation patterns for TV masts are very
flat so clearing by two or three thousand feet above may cause little
problem. On some earlier models of the Garmin 100 model the software was
unable to recover from signal interference causing the whole system to
crash often losing valuable routing and waypoint data.
There are also a number of radar installations around the country where
similar effects can be observed. Oakhanger, Portsdown, Staxton Wold,
Fylingdales, Croughton, Goonhilly, Defford and Malvern in particular
could upset most units.
endclip
The list was also produced before the advent of Channel 5 so the
interfering sites may well have grown in number. Garmin have since
produced updated software for the 100 which overcomes the problems.
More recently I have been involved with installation of GPS into UK
military jets where problems were also found with interference from
Transponder/IFF systems though the jets did have dual antennas and it
was largely found to be the proximity of the top surface antenna.
Something that is less likely to occur on civil layouts.
The other known problem in aircraft is the 12th and 13th harmonic from
airband transmissions typically channels 121.050-121.350 and 131.000-
131.425 on VHF, 262.375-262.750, 314.775-315.075 and 393.750-394.025 on
military UHF.
GPS and aircraft frequencies can be unhappy bedfellows.
--
Graham E Laucht
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | to do with all of that blue foam. |
Ok, so you have finished your Europa or even if you are half way
through. By now you will have a stack of spare blue foam. Even if you
keep some of it tucked away "just in case" you still have a pile that
you need to dispose of.
Here are three suggestions....
Model Aircraft.
Contact your local model aircraft club. That blue foam is perfect for
making model aircraft and the wing cores are the perfect size for
making radio control glider fuselages. I have two local builders
making model planes out of Europa foam, one of whom is very kindly
making a model Europa for me.
Model Railways
Ever wondered what the latest technique for making the marvellous
scenery that goes with today's model railways? You guessed it -
carved blue styrofoam. Your local model railway club will take that
blue foam off your hands. I am keeping mine for when I resurrect my
model railway. By the way, if you thing the electronics that goes
into planes these days is impressive you should see what is going
into model railways these days!!
Craft Making
We had a party round here recently and while the plane got yawns from
most of the ladies I noticed that one of them was examining the foam
intently. It turns out that our good old blue foam is also used in
home handicraft these days. The lady in question left later that
evening with a smile and half a dozen wing cores under her arm to
turn into carvings.
Then of course there is always the boogie board and new skateboard top
to make for the kids.
Tony
Melting in the heat, even my 5 minute epoxy is exotherming!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
> The reason is that UHF TV stations radiate energy at between 470 and 854
> Mhz at power levels up to 1000kW ERP. Their siting on high ground means
> we might be flying level with the antenna and therefore in the area of
> most intense energy. An inevitable consequence of radio frequency
> generation and amplification is the production of harmonic energy which
> is normally suppressed by filtration yet can still be of a high enough
> level to disturb GPS receivers. The highly sensitive front end of
> satellite receivers will be overwhelmed by the offending RF energy
> swamping the ephemeris data and timing information necessary for
> position and velocity calculations.
Thank You.
That would explain my problem south of Auckland. The offending
television mast is on a hill at an altitude of 3510 feet AMSL and I regularly
transit past it between 2500 and 3500 feet. You can guarantee that it
knocks out GPS coverage every time.
And before you wonder, the hill goes straight up from 100 feet AMSL
and is part of a 60 mile long ridge - great for ridge soaring or
exercising your feet when flying a 172! Roll on the glider wings.
Now, what does a Navaid wing leveller that is GPS coordinated do when it
loses coverage?
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Having confirmed that the next Europa seminar clashes with my one
conference between April and September (I obviously wasn't meant to
attend!) I am now planning a last minute trip to Sun 'n Fun.
Are the UK Europans planning another exodus from the wintery north to
to sun of Florida? Who from the US is going?
I see Ivan is speaking on one of the days so can't miss that.
As a complete beginner at Sun 'n Fun are there any things I _must_
see or things that I shouldn't bother with?
Assuming that I can get airline tickets (I am treating my dad for a
trip) are there any Europa functions planned?
Well that lot should keep the Internet busy for a couple of days.
On another point - I just arranged to house the NZ Sport Aviation
homepages on the Kaon server so you can expect an expansion of the
current Europages into a complete sport aviation resource over the
next year.
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Squeegeeing Between Plies??? |
>> Still not decided as to whether I should be squeegeeing between plies<<
This is the way I always do it, and advise all my "flock?" to do the same. It
results in a light neat part.
First micro the foam, this is imporatant to give a good bond between foam and
glass. Micro should be as dry as can be spread on easily with a squeegee. Scrape
off the excess to leave the foam almost dry but with all the pores filled with
micro.
Next lay on the glass and carefully arrange it with accurate straight fibre
orientation. This will be easy because the dry micro doesn't grab the glass.
Pour on the resin and spread it quickly and lightly so the resin can soak itself
in. Move the excess about to wet the dry bits.Working steadily wet out the whole
of the glass and squeegee off from the middle using the wedge of excess resin in
front of the squeegee to push any air bubbles out and off the edges. When
satisfied repeat with the next ply of glass.
Finally an hour or so after finishing go back and carefully inspect to make
sure nothing has moved. You may find a few air bubbles have sneaked up on you.
Rectify before cure.
Pouring or brushing resin onto a microed foam surface will serve only to spread
micro into the glass skin, not at all where it's wanted
and grab the glass, making it very hard to get all the fibres laying where you
want them.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
>>they would still get cooked if they flew too close to a transmitter <<
TV stations are pretty powerful, could they too cause blanks in GPS coverage,
Graham?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ians(at)flyer.co.uk (Ian Seager) |
>As a complete beginner at Sun 'n Fun are there any things I _must_
>see or things that I shouldn't bother with?
Don't bother with lots of warm clothing, and do take loads of suncream... :-)
Ian
ps takes loads of film if you take a camera
Ian Seager FLYER Magazine, 3 Kingsmead Square, Bath, BA1 2AB
Tel: 01225 481440 Fax: 01225 481262
http://www.flyer.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Tattersdill <john.tattersdill(at)cableinet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | rnet Diary for Booking Planes - Request. |
A quick "Hello" to say I've just joined your clan. I'm now a very
pround shareholder in the "Europa 39" Group and look forward to meeting
some of you in the future.
I've read somewhere that there is an internet utility program which acts
as a diary which can be used for booking areoplanes. Does anyone know
where I can get a copy?
Tail-winds and Happy Landings,
John.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John Tattersdill <john.tattersdill(at)cableinet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | rnet Plane Booking Utility |
I've read somewhere that there is an internet utility program which acts
as a diary which can be used for booking areoplanes. This would be very
useful for our areoplane group. Does anyone know where I can get a
copy?
Tail-winds and Happy Landings,
John.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Peter Davis <101621.3070(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Ambiguities???? |
As a contribution to answering Tony Renshaw's questions.
I, too am a first time builder, but do not remember too much trouble with the
quick connect bolts. I've just looked at mine and the port bolt in indeed a bit
more recessed than the starboard, but by not very much - 3-5mm.
With regard to the amount of drilling/recessing required for the bolt heads,
when I did mine I took comfort from the fact that the recessing is only 13mm
away from the 'neutral axis' of the beam (read 'spar') and so should not make
much difference to the strength.
With regard to the rudder fit, it was I who adjusted the bottom of the fuselage
and I still think that it makes little difference whether the rudder is
lengthened or the fuselage altered.
Although.......by the time I had spotted that the rudder didn't fit very nicely
I had already built in the hinge reinforcing plies and had a number of holes
drilled to temporarily fix the rudder to the fuselage.
Also, something I had forgotted at the time of my previous reply to the query
about rudder lengths. I was also experiencing a tapering gap between the port
side of the fuselage and the rudder, at worst being 10mm wide towards the bottom
which I was also looking to erase somehow.
So, all in all, adjusting the fuselage seemed the easier option, especially as
I
was going to have to cut at least one slot in the bottom to draw in the port
side to close up the gap.
One word of caution to anyone with a similar problem - side gap, that is. Before
deciding on the course of action you must decide whether it is the port or
starboard side that is in error. To ensure that you end up with a vertical
rudder when the 'plane is level you don't want to just cut a slot in the bottom
of the fuselage and pull the two bits together.
First determine which way the rudder wants to go to achieve/maintain the
vertical and use the radius of the fuselage bottom to assist in achieving this
('cos it's very stiff). Also, of course, a straight line down the starboard side
for the hinges is required too.
Once you start on this sort of thing you find it's a veritable minefield!
Happy days,
Peter.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Dave Watson <dmw(at)querandi.demon.co.uk> |
From: Tony Krzyzewski
to sun of Florida? Who from the US is going?
We've have just had about enough of an English non-descript winter, dull, grey,
wet, windy and very miserable! However, we have our flight tickets booked for
Sun n' Fun, and just can't wait to get there. Will be arriving late Thursday,
relax on the Friday, Sun n' Fun Saturday. I know, it officially doesn't start
until Sunday, but they never stop you getting your tickets etc. and looking around
on the Saturday. The queues, or lines in American speak, for buying your
ticket on Sunday are very very long, and we smile as we bypass them having got
ours on the Saturday.
All you need is one pair shorts, one tee shirt, one pair of daps and lots of dollars
to buy lots of goodies! Suntan lotion is much cheaper over there than in
the UK, but there again so is everything else.
Safe journey, see you there.....
Dave and Margaret Watson
(#224 G-CUTY Tri-gear)
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________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Dave,
Thank you for the trouble. I've found a local engineering company that can
supply drill bits etc. but to have a catalogue on the study bookshelf is
great when problemsolving. I'll ring them today! By the way, what do I do
with this attachment stuff on the bottom of your message???
Regards
Tony Renshaw
>Why not try Farnell Components, they are more international and carry a
greater stock in Oz, they are the biggest distributors in the world!
>>Farnell Components
>72 Ferndell Street
>Chester Hill
>NSW 2162
>Phone: 02 645 8888
>Fax: 02 644 7898
>
>Dave and Margaret Watson
>(#224 G-CUTY Tri-gear)
>>>Attachment Converted: C:\EUDORA\REEurop2
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
>Graham,
Why do you think this happened in the first place?? Does everyone who has
one flying have a modified fuselage or rudder? I'm amazed what one small
question about the rudder tip shaping can foster. Isn't this medium GREAT!!
Well, I think so anyway. At least now that I know I can consider
my options.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
>>problem with an undersized rudder<
>
>I had a gap of some 10 mm at the bottom , and likewise cut longitudinal 12"
>V-slots in the lower fuselage end. It resisted deformation even with the
>cuts in, but succumbed to "dropping" the tail into a u-shaped former and
>re-glassing.
>
>Graham C.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
Gidday,
Can anyone please tell me the issues that have the Europa editorials in
them, for back ordering purposes? I am aware of the June Issue, but thats all.
Thanks
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | ians(at)flyer.co.uk (Ian Seager) |
| Subject: | Re: Flyer Issues |
>Gidday,
>Can anyone please tell me the issues that have the Europa editorials in
>them, for back ordering purposes? I am aware of the June Issue, but thats all.
>Thanks
>Regards
>Tony Renshaw
>Builder No.236
Tony, I'll have a look in the office in the morning amd email you
Happy building
Ian
Ian Seager FLYER Magazine, 3 Kingsmead Square, Bath, BA1 2AB
Tel: 01225 481440 Fax: 01225 481262
http://www.flyer.co.uk
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
In a message dated 23/02/97 01:49:28, you write:
>GPS and aircraft frequencies can be unhappy bedfellows<
Those of you with radio amateur licences in the UK will know that the
authorities are pondering on whether to allow ham transmisions while airborne
- so you will have to watch what your passengers are doing in the back seats
(no not that!).
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
In a message dated 23/02/97 11:07:07, you write:
>TV stations are pretty powerful, could they too cause blanks in GPS
coverage,
Sure, most outages I have found are indeed TV. We have a home-grown one just
outside the Edinburgh Zone which blocks out half a county. Its almost on the
25 ILS path so GPS approaches will never get approved here until there is
some technology breakthrough.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: What to do with all of that blue foam. |
Don't give it all away too soon, however good the cause. As you near the end
of your tether/construction, you will spend quite some time in peculiar
positions with sharp bits like control levers, and the sharp edge of the D,
attempting to lacerate your delicate flesh. Block of blue foam make good
buffers when wifey rescues her cushions.
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Ambiguities???? |
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Tony Renshaw wrote:
>Hello all,
>Have been quite surprised by 2 recect messages, which I would like opinion on.
> The first is attached below, ......
>ANY OPINIONS/VIEWS/ADVICE???
So long as you always remember the Europa is an "Approximate
Aeroplane" then you will be OK!
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
| From: | Richard Meredith-Hardy <rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net> |
Graham C wrote:
>Don't turn it over if they're in either, if you've put fuel in and haven't
>installed the instrument module !. You need to have a grounding lead pair
>handy. I understand the latest handbook mentions this hazard now..
Standard on all Rotaxes. Failsafe so the engine runs without being
connected to anything (except fuel of course!)
Regards;
Richard Meredith-Hardy
rmh(at)flymicro.win-uk.net Tel: 01462 834776 FAX: 01462 732668
BMAA Foot Launched Microlights Office.
Check out the BMAA Web pages at:
http://www.avnet.co.uk/bmaa/bmaa.htm
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Undersized Rudder and spinner centralisation. |
In a message dated 23/02/97 23:07:58, you write:
>Why do you think this happened in the first place??
As usual probably several things. Maybe the mould was too "safely big" in
the first place but...it can also be exacerbated by having to trim back the
bottom to get a straight fin line. This in turn may be made necessary by
inadvertent tilt back of the fin when you attach it to the upper fuselage
moulding. Easy to see after the event as usual.
Oh well, lets stir up a similar one. Anyone had trouble with getting the prop
in the middle. There was a thread way back where it was concluded that an
offset to the right (for the Rotax) was ok, due to prop. wash. But the fuel
pump is hard up against radiator inlet so if you are out to the left you
can't retrieve the situation, as the radiator touches the cowling at lower
starboard. (Thinks, looks bad to purists but does it matter that much ?)
Graham C.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Undersized Rudder |
>>Why do you think this happened in the first place??<<
I must confess I'm puzzled. We had no problems. OTH the positioning of the fin
is a bit imprecise. Maybe that's where the errors creep in.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | swork Techniques |
Thanks Graham,
I have a few questions from your attached e-mail, if you could clarify. By
the way, thanks for the detail sofar, it all helps to keep modifying my
technique. I'll use capitals to highlight my questions to differentiate to
others who may/may not be interested.
>>> Still not decided as to whether I should be squeegeeing between plies<<
>
>This is the way I always do it, and advise all my "flock?" to do the same. It
>results in a light neat part.
>
>First micro the foam, this is imporatant to give a good bond between foam and
>glass. Micro should be as dry as can be spread on easily with a squeegee.
Scrape
>off the excess to leave the foam almost dry but with all the pores filled with
>micro.
WOULD YOU SAY YOUR MICRO THEREFORE IS NOT A LOT DISSIMILAR TO YOUR DRY MICRO
I.E. CLOSER TO IT THAN TO PURE RESIN ITSELF?
DOES YOUR FOAM BLANK AFTER THE LAYUP HAS CURED STILL RETAIN ITS ORIGINAL
BLUE COLOUR OR IS IT NOW BASICALLY A VERY LIGHT BLUE?
MY MICRO SLURRY HAS BEEN MORE TO DATE LIKE ONE OF MY KID'S BOWLS OF MELTED
ICE CREAM, IF THEY HAVE FORGOTTEN TO EAT IT.(THIS DOESN'T HAPPEN VERY
OFTEN!!!!)THE COLOUR OF THE WET MICRO IS NO LONGER RECOGNISABLE AS "AT ALL
YELLOWISH LIKE THE RESIN"-ITS ALL WHITE.
WHAT ARE YOU BASING YOUR CHOICE OF MICROSLURRY THICKNESS ON SUCH THAT IT
APPEARS THICKER THAN MY OTHER REFERENCES SUCH AS THE RUTAN BOOK.( I KNOW A
LOT OF WATER HAS GONE UNDER THE BRIDGE SINCE THEN, AND AIRCRAFT MADE)
IS IT TO DO WITH DELAMINATION EXPERIENCE?
>Next lay on the glass and carefully arrange it with accurate straight fibre
>orientation.
YES, I WILL TRY THIS TECHNIQUE ON THE NEXT LAYUP, SIDE 2 OF THE RUDDER. I
BELIEVE I NEED TO MASTER IT ANYWAY FOR THE TAILPLANE BUTT JOINTS.
This will be easy because the dry micro doesn't grab the glass.
>Pour on the resin and spread it quickly and lightly so the resin can soak
itself
>in. Move the excess about to wet the dry bits.Working steadily wet out the
whole
>of the glass and squeegee off from the middle using the wedge of excess
resin in
>front of the squeegee to push any air bubbles out and off the edges. When
>satisfied repeat with the next ply of glass.
YOU OBVIOUSLY SQUEEGEE IN ALL DIRECTIONS, CAREFULLY DO YOU???
>
>Finally an hour or so after finishing go back and carefully inspect to make
>sure nothing has moved. You may find a few air bubbles have sneaked up on you.
>Rectify before cure.
HOW?? IS THIS WHERE YOU WOULD USE A BLOW DRYER? I GOT INTO TROUBLE LAST TIME
I USED MY WIFES BLOW DRYER WITHOUT ASKING!! THE RESIN UNNOTICED ON MY GLOVES
MAY HAVE HAD SOMETHING TO DO WITH IT!!
>
>Pouring or brushing resin onto a microed foam surface will serve only to spread
>micro into the glass skin, not at all where it's wanted
IMHO & SIMPLY AS AN OBSERVATION, I HAVE FOUND THAT THIS DOESN'T HAPPEN SUCH
THAT YOU CAN NOTICE IT VISUALLY ANYWAY. I SUPPOSE IF WE ARE REALLY ONLY
FILLING PORES AND THEN PROPERLY SQUEEGEEING OFF, THE FUTURE APPLICATION OF
RESIN SHOULD NOT NECESSARILY PULL UP FROM BELOW THE WET MICRO FROM THE PORES.
> and grab the glass, making it very hard to get all the fibres laying where you
>want them.
THIS CERTAINLY DOES HAPPEN SUCH THAT ONCE ITS DOWN, IN MY MIND, ITS DOWN FOR
GOOD. USING THIS TECHNIQUE YOU HAVE TO MAINTAIN FIBRE ORIENTATION AND
STRAIGHTNESS AS YOU PLACE THE CLOTH. IF ANYONE IS INTERESTED, THE PREVIOUSLY
POSTED NOTES ABOUT ROLLING YOUR CLOTH ONTO A 1" DOWEL IS A MUST, IN
CONJUNCTION WITH "FLYER'S" TIP ABOUT COLOURING THE BUNDLES BEFORE LAYUP. I
USE 4" LONG DASHED LINES ABOUT 4" APART, ROWS ALSO ABOUT 4" APART. THE
DASHES ARE OFFSET FROM THE NEIGHBOURING LINES AS I STILL DO NOT HAVE
COMPLETE FAITH IN WHETHER MY VEGETABLE GUM PENS COULD COMPROMISE MY
STRUCTURE, THEREFORE THE DASHES.
>
DO YOU HAPPEN TO HAVE THE AVERAGE COMPONENT WEIGHTS AT HAND? I GOT THEM ONCE
BUT MY FILING SYSTEM SEEMS TO HAVE SWALLOWED THEM.
I APPRECIATE THE TIME AS MY TECHNICAL COUNCILLOR HASNT WORKED ON A
FIBREGLASS AIRCRAFT BEFORE AND THEREFORE IS NOT MUCH GOOD FOR GLASSSWORK
QUESTIONS
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
The Aussie Connection.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Variable flaps (was OR5) |
>Q: Why do you Brits drink your beer at room temperature?
>
>A: Because British beer doesn't have to be refrigerated to hide the taste!
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Your time over again??? |
>If you advanced builders had your time over again, would you attempt to
>preshape the leading edge of the rudder where it joins the tip to save
>having to repair in the future your own work?? I'm just shaping the rudder
>now and am frustrated with "not being able to get it right the first time!
>Is there an advantage in doing it the book way? I suppose it teaches repair
>techniques for the future, but I'm not planning on creating this scenario,
>and certainly not in an area where complex curves are.
>Any advice would be appreciated.
>Regards
>Tony Renshaw
>Builder No.236
>
The reason for not attempting to describe in the manual the shape required
for the rudder's top leading edge such that it could be done prior to
fitting to the fin is that I felt it would cause confusion.
The straightforward task of filing the shape, with the rudder hinged to the
fin, and making up a simple layup was felt to be the best method in the
circumstances.
However, if there is anybody out there with good communication skills who
would like to forward a suggestion I'd be happy to consider it for inclusion
in the rudder chapter of the manual covering this area.
Try and keep it to within 250 words, and bear in mind that a good proportion
of Europa builders don't have English as their first language.
Regards
Andy Draper
-------------------------------------
Web Site at www.europa-aviation.co.uk
Fax No 44 1751 431706
-------------------------------------
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Zoe Tracey Coster Harrison <Z.T.C.Harrison-hf4h5783(at)lmu.ac.uk> |
| Subject: | rnet site for Europa. |
To whom it may concern.
My father is currently in the process of purchasing one of the europa kits
and has heard from a colleague that there is a help page available
through the internet. Unfortunately he is not computer literate! He has
asked me to try and find out where the net site for this is. I wonder if
you could help me with this matter?
I can be contacted through this email number or he (Mr Bob Harrison) can
be contacted through telephone/fax; 01472 851987
Thanking you in anticipation
Yours sincerely
Zoe Harrison
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | D.Howard(at)kid0110.wins.icl.co.uk |
| Subject: | ): What to do with all of that blue foam. |
Whilst we're on this topic, there are several places in the manual
where it tells you to keep the lightening hole cores etc. for
future use. Do they mean keep each piece individually labelled (or
grouped in bin bags as mine are), or just dumped under the bench
Dave Howard
#309
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Intercom Installation problem |
>In a message dated 23/02/97 01:49:28, you write:
>
>>GPS and aircraft frequencies can be unhappy bedfellows<
>
>Those of you with radio amateur licences in the UK will know that the
>authorities are pondering on whether to allow ham transmisions while airborne
>- so you will have to watch what your passengers are doing in the back seats
>(no not that!).
I have had an occasion where one of my passengers decided to use his
notebook computer on descent, contrary to the P.A., and the a/c decided it
didn't want to go to Perth anymore, and turned uncommanded toward the north.
We underwent the quite often normal glass cockpit conversation of " What is
it doing now?" before deciding that irrespective of where it wanted to go,
We wanted to end up in Perth! It is certainly not fiction that these a/c are
effected by RF emmitting devices, and Mr Boeing has instituted a reporting
system to attempt to narrow down what triggers this a/c behavior, no doubt
in an attempt to fix it.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
The Aussie Connection
>
>Graham C.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Tony Renshaw <renshaw(at)ozemail.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Ambiguities???? |
>>
>>ANY OPINIONS/VIEWS/ADVICE???
>
>
>So long as you always remember the Europa is an "Approximate
>Aeroplane" then you will be OK!
>
>"I hear what you say, however I thought the vagaries of building was from
my end!
You surely would have to say that if supplied with a rudder blank,
painstakingly precut to do a task, that it should! If a 20 hour fix at the
factory could save each individual builder 20 hours PLUS of work, don't you
think we should tell them." I still don't know if this is a totally fair
comment as not enough people have acknowledged, but there obviously is a
problem somewhere.
It needs to be a tempered argument however I appreciate. If I can offer up
an olive branch, the new manual I received, and the amendment and page
reconciliation system, is now far better than what I originally had and is
quite professional. The diagrams in particular have always been A+ + + +.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Builder No.236
The Aussie Connection
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rolph Muller <rolph(at)globalvt.demon.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: What to do with all of that blue foam. |
In message <"8261*/I=D/S=Howard/OU=kid0110/O=icl/PRMD=icl/ADMD=gold
400/C=GB/"@MHS>, D.Howard(at)kid0110.wins.icl.co.uk writes
>Do they mean keep each piece individually labelled (or
> grouped in bin bags as mine are)
Keep 'em labelled if possible - cut offs go back in as plugs.
--
Rolph Muller
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <100421.2123(at)compuserve.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Undersized Rudder and spinner centralisation. |
>> But the fuel pump is hard up against radiator inlet so if you are out to the
left you
can't retrieve the situation, as the radiator touches the cowling at lower
starboard.<<
It all puts a premium on accurately fitting the cowls. However, whatever you do
make sure that nothing that vibrates touches the airframe anywhere, except via
rubber mounts. That includes the engine mount where it passes through the
firewall.
Graham
December 27, 1996 - February 24, 1997
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-ah