Europa-Archive.digest.vol-es
April 30, 2005 - May 16, 2005
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
>
>
> Jeremy,
>
> I have been away on business and so have not been around to join the
> discussion about MOD 70 but I have to say I am very unhappy about the Mod
> and its possible implications. I appreciate that being a non current
> engineer makes my opinion of little value to Europa 2004 or Francis
> Donaldson, but that never stopped me before.
>
> Firstly, the installation of the cables on the Mass Balance arm during the
> build struck me as very much hit or miss procedure at best. Page 20-2 of
> the
> builders manual- quote- " Make the cable as tight as possible before
> swaging
> the sleeve. This operation is almost certainly a two person job, holding
> the
> cable and swaging tool at the same time." When I came to that, it seemed
> to
> me that obtaining a reasonable cable tension and getting the the mass
> balance arm normal to the tailplane torque tube was almost mutually
> exclusive. It was for that reason that I installed a turnbuckle in each
> cable - this enabled precise measurement of the mass balance arm and
> allowed for a predictable tension to be set. I don't know how many
> builders
> adopted the same approach, but I know I am not alone with this idea.
>
> The requirement for a stronger mass balance arm was decided following the
> failure of one classic that had suffered ' a number of landing incidents'.
> OK, I can accept that without a problem.
>
> Last monday I drove up to Kirbymoorside to speak to Andy about the Mod and
> my misgivings about it. Andy has done a lot of testing on the setup and
> he
> showed me the new balance arm. It is made of thicker wall tubing and has
> a
> considerably more substantial adjuster assembly replacing the original
> TP18A
> adjuster. Andy also conducted some load tests on the original arm (in the
> vertical plane) he found that the test arm initialy twisted and then the
> lower tube buckled - he showed me the failed item. I am not sure whether
> the arm was installed in the aircraft, with cables attached, or whether it
> was just a straightforward bench test - if it was a bench test I doubt
> whether any cables were installed - perhaps if cables had been attached
> the
> inital twist prior to failure might have been delayed. However, the new
> arm
> is much stronger and should do the job nicely - but there are no cable
> attachment lugs.
>
> I asked Andy why he had discarded the cables? His reason was purely to
> make
> the installation easier for owners. I explained my turnbuckle
> arrangement.
> to which he replied that it was not a problem and Europa could easily put
> the cable attachment lugs on the new arm. Remember that the identified
> weakness is in the vertical plane of the mass balance arm not in the cable
> system. I asked if he would contact Francis Donaldson, but he said that
> he
> would be happy for me to do it - as the new arm would be fitted with the
> existing, proven engineering - it should require no flight testing. As it
> happens my aircraft is in the workshop for its' permit renewal so I
> removed
> the D panel and the fuselage access panels and had a good look around.
> The
> fitting of the turnbuckles to install the new balance arm would actually
> be
> quite easy. After carefully measuring and marking the cables so that the
> end of the turnbuckle can be fitted in the correct place, the cables can
> be
> cut as far forward as possible, that is just short of the cable lugs. Now
> if the fuselage access panel, on the right side by the tail is in the
> standard position, the cut end of the cables can be brought outside the
> fuselage and the turnbuckle end swaged in comfort. The other end of the
> turnbuckle can be fitted to the attachment lug on the arm using a standard
> fork fitting, cotter pin and split pin. The new arm is then installed
> onto
> the torque tube and with minimal time in the rear fuselage, the barrels of
> the turnbuckle are fitted, the arm is adjusted to the centre of the
> pushrod
> containment assembly, the tension set on the cables and finally locking
> wires fitted to the turnbuckles. It may be necessary to drill a little
> out
> of the mass balance weights to reset the balance.
> Now the point is that if some europas, because arranging the mass balance
> arm normal to the torque shaft is not a given, and the containment
> assemble
> was built around the already installed mass balance arm. It is quite
> likely
> that the resting place of the new uncabled arm is not going to be in the
> same place. This means that the pitch tube containment attachment
> brackets
> will have to be moved, and quite likely the fit of the ply around the
> pitch
> tube itself may need adjusting. How much time will be required down the
> black hole to do that!!! Using the existing cables would avoid all those
> problems. I asked Andy why he hadn't considered using turnbuckles, his
> comment - - "Well people might not have any turnbuckles."
>
> What worries me is that this big lump of steel is going to be free to move
> left and right at will, perhaps hundreds of times in an hour in opposition
> to the slightest yaw of the aircraft. How much could it move? I noted
> that
> a value of 4mm was mentioned on this forum. In fact, Para 5 of step 3 of
> the modification leaflet states - "The diameter of the mass balance
> weights
> is 50mm, and the nominal clearance is 2mm each side - check that the
> clearance achieved is between 1mm and 4mm each side". I interpret that to
> mean that the lateral movement of the arm could be 8 mm. Such a movement
> does not take into account the flexing of the plywood of the pitch
> containment assembly - not the sturdiest of structures. In real terms
> this
> new arrangement could have these not insignificant balance weights
> 'clonking' left and right by maybe 12mm. Is this movement likely to cause
> any fatigue problems at the attachment points on the torque shaft -
> perhaps
> one of the forum metallurgists could advise.
>
> I discussed this movement with Andy and he said that the weight moves even
> with the cables. If they are fitted in the manner described in the build
> manual I can see that there might be some movement. With properly
> tensioned
> cables, there is negligible movement.
>
> Actually, it is not outside the realms of possibility that a fracture of
> the original TP18A could be accellerated because of lateral movement
> caused
> by slack cables.
>
> The bottom line is that, the history of why the cables were originally
> fitted to the mass balance arm is irrelevant. Many Europas have done may
> thousands of hours flying with he current mass balance arm configuration
> without a problem. Now following the fracture of one TP18A on an aircraft
> that has suffered 1 or more landing incidents we are all to fit stronger
> mass balance arms. Changing the arm is the right thing to do. But I
> totally disagree that discarding the cables is the right thing to do. It
> is
> one aircraft modified and tested at the factory for a few hours against
> the
> experience of the whole fleet.
>
> I understand from Bob Harrison that since I spoke to Andy Draper he has
> been
> told by his boss that he cannot put the lugs on the new arms as he
> promised
> me. It seems that the only way we can incorporate this modified component
> is the way Europa 2004 say, because that is what they have worked out and
> tested. I smell commercial pressure here.
>
> I fear we are in danger of throwing the baby out with the bath water!!!!
>
> I have sent this email to the forum in the hope that someone can allay my
> fears about MOD 70 - perhaps it might generate some positive comment.
>
>
> regards,
>
> Mike Parkin (G-JULZ - hiding in the corner of the workshop with cables a
> quivering.)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
>
>>
>> Fred,
>>
>> It wasn't stripped threads - the threaded portion sheared in two.
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> I offered and you declined. OK, I'm 6' and 220lbs, but I still contend
>> you're being fussy! :-)
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Jeremy
>>
>> Jeremy Davey
>> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
>> Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
>> PFA EC Member
>> If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it
>> is
>> possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
>> Tail done
>> Standard XS wings with mods underway
>> CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
>> 1390 build hours to date
>> Intended fit:
>> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
>> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred
>> Fillinger
>> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
>>
>>
>> "R.C.Harrison" wrote:
>>> ...
>>> I understand that the part that broke ( Having been previously under
>>> extraneous circumstances!) was actually the adjuster screw thread,
>>
>> I think I'm beginning to understand. There is considerable inertia in
>> the counterweight, and a few good whacks to the tail in occasional
>> hard landings would put the lower arm components in compression once
>> too often, stripping threads? The rebound may not help either. I
>> know this is amateur engineering, but perhaps the trigear doesn't
>> suffer as badly in ungraceful handling, because the force exerted on
>> the counterweight will be less abrupt. Hope so.
>>
>> Reg,
>> Fred F.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
<>
That's the sort of comment that worries me. Because in that situation the
lateral stresses at the attachment point of the counterbalance arm
completely different (i.e. compressive and not bending, and not constantly
reversing). I accept that there is a small bending component, but as the
counterbalance weight is forward of the cable attachment points, much of the
bending is cancelled out.
Not so much commercial pressure I smell, as engineering arrogance.
Its also TP09 that I fear for and the constantly reversing loads being fed
into an area that is probably hardened from the heat haze of the weld. No
doubt these issues have been considered and be very happy to see the
calculations.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
> Jeremy,
>
> I have been away on business and so have not been around to join the
> discussion about MOD 70 but I have to say I am very unhappy about the Mod
> and its possible implications. I appreciate that being a non current
> engineer makes my opinion of little value to Europa 2004 or Francis
> Donaldson, but that never stopped me before.
>
> Firstly, the installation of the cables on the Mass Balance arm during the
> build struck me as very much hit or miss procedure at best. Page 20-2 of
the
> builders manual- quote- " Make the cable as tight as possible before
swaging
> the sleeve. This operation is almost certainly a two person job, holding
the
> cable and swaging tool at the same time." When I came to that, it seemed
to
> me that obtaining a reasonable cable tension and getting the the mass
> balance arm normal to the tailplane torque tube was almost mutually
> exclusive. It was for that reason that I installed a turnbuckle in each
> cable - this enabled precise measurement of the mass balance arm and
> allowed for a predictable tension to be set. I don't know how many
builders
> adopted the same approach, but I know I am not alone with this idea.
>
> The requirement for a stronger mass balance arm was decided following the
> failure of one classic that had suffered ' a number of landing incidents'.
> OK, I can accept that without a problem.
>
> Last monday I drove up to Kirbymoorside to speak to Andy about the Mod and
> my misgivings about it. Andy has done a lot of testing on the setup and
he
> showed me the new balance arm. It is made of thicker wall tubing and has
a
> considerably more substantial adjuster assembly replacing the original
TP18A
> adjuster. Andy also conducted some load tests on the original arm (in the
> vertical plane) he found that the test arm initialy twisted and then the
> lower tube buckled - he showed me the failed item. I am not sure whether
> the arm was installed in the aircraft, with cables attached, or whether it
> was just a straightforward bench test - if it was a bench test I doubt
> whether any cables were installed - perhaps if cables had been attached
the
> inital twist prior to failure might have been delayed. However, the new
arm
> is much stronger and should do the job nicely - but there are no cable
> attachment lugs.
>
> I asked Andy why he had discarded the cables? His reason was purely to
make
> the installation easier for owners. I explained my turnbuckle
arrangement.
> to which he replied that it was not a problem and Europa could easily put
> the cable attachment lugs on the new arm. Remember that the identified
> weakness is in the vertical plane of the mass balance arm not in the cable
> system. I asked if he would contact Francis Donaldson, but he said that
he
> would be happy for me to do it - as the new arm would be fitted with the
> existing, proven engineering - it should require no flight testing. As it
> happens my aircraft is in the workshop for its' permit renewal so I
removed
> the D panel and the fuselage access panels and had a good look around.
The
> fitting of the turnbuckles to install the new balance arm would actually
be
> quite easy. After carefully measuring and marking the cables so that the
> end of the turnbuckle can be fitted in the correct place, the cables can
be
> cut as far forward as possible, that is just short of the cable lugs. Now
> if the fuselage access panel, on the right side by the tail is in the
> standard position, the cut end of the cables can be brought outside the
> fuselage and the turnbuckle end swaged in comfort. The other end of the
> turnbuckle can be fitted to the attachment lug on the arm using a standard
> fork fitting, cotter pin and split pin. The new arm is then installed
onto
> the torque tube and with minimal time in the rear fuselage, the barrels of
> the turnbuckle are fitted, the arm is adjusted to the centre of the
pushrod
> containment assembly, the tension set on the cables and finally locking
> wires fitted to the turnbuckles. It may be necessary to drill a little
out
> of the mass balance weights to reset the balance.
> Now the point is that if some europas, because arranging the mass balance
> arm normal to the torque shaft is not a given, and the containment
assemble
> was built around the already installed mass balance arm. It is quite
likely
> that the resting place of the new uncabled arm is not going to be in the
> same place. This means that the pitch tube containment attachment
brackets
> will have to be moved, and quite likely the fit of the ply around the
pitch
> tube itself may need adjusting. How much time will be required down the
> black hole to do that!!! Using the existing cables would avoid all those
> problems. I asked Andy why he hadn't considered using turnbuckles, his
> comment - - "Well people might not have any turnbuckles."
>
> What worries me is that this big lump of steel is going to be free to move
> left and right at will, perhaps hundreds of times in an hour in opposition
> to the slightest yaw of the aircraft. How much could it move? I noted
that
> a value of 4mm was mentioned on this forum. In fact, Para 5 of step 3 of
> the modification leaflet states - "The diameter of the mass balance
weights
> is 50mm, and the nominal clearance is 2mm each side - check that the
> clearance achieved is between 1mm and 4mm each side". I interpret that to
> mean that the lateral movement of the arm could be 8 mm. Such a movement
> does not take into account the flexing of the plywood of the pitch
> containment assembly - not the sturdiest of structures. In real terms
this
> new arrangement could have these not insignificant balance weights
> 'clonking' left and right by maybe 12mm. Is this movement likely to cause
> any fatigue problems at the attachment points on the torque shaft -
perhaps
> one of the forum metallurgists could advise.
>
> I discussed this movement with Andy and he said that the weight moves even
> with the cables. If they are fitted in the manner described in the build
> manual I can see that there might be some movement. With properly
tensioned
> cables, there is negligible movement.
>
> Actually, it is not outside the realms of possibility that a fracture of
> the original TP18A could be accellerated because of lateral movement
caused
> by slack cables.
>
> The bottom line is that, the history of why the cables were originally
> fitted to the mass balance arm is irrelevant. Many Europas have done may
> thousands of hours flying with he current mass balance arm configuration
> without a problem. Now following the fracture of one TP18A on an aircraft
> that has suffered 1 or more landing incidents we are all to fit stronger
> mass balance arms. Changing the arm is the right thing to do. But I
> totally disagree that discarding the cables is the right thing to do. It
is
> one aircraft modified and tested at the factory for a few hours against
the
> experience of the whole fleet.
>
> I understand from Bob Harrison that since I spoke to Andy Draper he has
been
> told by his boss that he cannot put the lugs on the new arms as he
promised
> me. It seems that the only way we can incorporate this modified component
> is the way Europa 2004 say, because that is what they have worked out and
> tested. I smell commercial pressure here.
>
> I fear we are in danger of throwing the baby out with the bath water!!!!
>
> I have sent this email to the forum in the hope that someone can allay my
> fears about MOD 70 - perhaps it might generate some positive comment.
>
>
> regards,
>
> Mike Parkin (G-JULZ - hiding in the corner of the workshop with cables a
> quivering.)
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
>
> >
> > Fred,
> >
> > It wasn't stripped threads - the threaded portion sheared in two.
> >
> > Tim,
> >
> > I offered and you declined. OK, I'm 6' and 220lbs, but I still contend
> > you're being fussy! :-)
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Jeremy
> >
> > Jeremy Davey
> > Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
> > Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
> > PFA EC Member
> > If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it
is
> > possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
> > Tail done
> > Standard XS wings with mods underway
> > CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
> > 1390 build hours to date
> > Intended fit:
> > Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
> > Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred
> > Fillinger
> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
> >
> >
> > "R.C.Harrison" wrote:
> >> ...
> >> I understand that the part that broke ( Having been previously under
> >> extraneous circumstances!) was actually the adjuster screw thread,
> >
> > I think I'm beginning to understand. There is considerable inertia in
> > the counterweight, and a few good whacks to the tail in occasional
> > hard landings would put the lower arm components in compression once
> > too often, stripping threads? The rebound may not help either. I
> > know this is amateur engineering, but perhaps the trigear doesn't
> > suffer as badly in ungraceful handling, because the force exerted on
> > the counterweight will be less abrupt. Hope so.
> >
> > Reg,
> > Fred F.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: 912-S support ring |
They're not pressed in but screwed in, with copious amounts of Loctite 680.
They can be heated up and moved. But you only have one shot at it and you
need to get it hot enough, otherwise there is a good chance they'll leak.
Alternately, take them out completely, clean them up and reset with fresh
Loctite.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "N55XS" <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Europa-List: 912-S support ring
>
> Guys,
> My 912-S arrived today, along with the mount ring. I got the ring
> bolted up, without too much trouble, however there is a problem with the
> alignment of the water pump outlet tubes on the port side. They are
> pointing directly at the supports, preventing me from hooking up the
> hoses, on that side. It looks as if the tubes are pressed into the
> water pump housing. Anyone have any idea on how to twist/realign the
> tubes so that the rubber hoses will connect?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> --
> Jeff - A055
> Only the engine stuff left to do...
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mikes Fears, Mod 70 |
Cliff,
Could not agree more. I discarded the fuel sight tube and fitted capacitive
fuel gauging.
regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Mikes Fears, Mod 70
>
> All and Mike
>
> Your fears are shared in my hanger as well. In that I am in the USA, I
> will
> take my new stronger mass balance arm to my trusty welder and have a cable
> attachment flange put on it. As you so wisely concluded, the cable
> installation was not designed well. The idea is fine, but if a builder can
> not do it well, it is a bad design. I installed the turnbuckles and feel
> that fixed the design problem.
>
> (another example is the fuel sight tube that runs under the floor mat and
> up
> and over the top of the cockpit.) Here in the USA we don't built it that
> way either.
>
> Just my thought. Remember "I am an amateur"
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
> http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
>
>>
>>
>> Jeremy,
>>
>> I have been away on business and so have not been around to join the
>> discussion about MOD 70 but I have to say I am very unhappy about the Mod
>> and its possible implications. I appreciate that being a non current
>> engineer makes my opinion of little value to Europa 2004 or Francis
>> Donaldson, but that never stopped me before.
>>
>> Firstly, the installation of the cables on the Mass Balance arm during
>> the
>> build struck me as very much hit or miss procedure at best. Page 20-2 of
>> the
>> builders manual- quote- " Make the cable as tight as possible before
>> swaging
>> the sleeve. This operation is almost certainly a two person job, holding
>> the
>> cable and swaging tool at the same time." When I came to that, it seemed
>> to
>> me that obtaining a reasonable cable tension and getting the the mass
>> balance arm normal to the tailplane torque tube was almost mutually
>> exclusive. It was for that reason that I installed a turnbuckle in each
>> cable - this enabled precise measurement of the mass balance arm and
>> allowed for a predictable tension to be set. I don't know how many
>> builders
>> adopted the same approach, but I know I am not alone with this idea.
>>
>> The requirement for a stronger mass balance arm was decided following the
>> failure of one classic that had suffered ' a number of landing
>> incidents'.
>> OK, I can accept that without a problem.
>>
>> Last monday I drove up to Kirbymoorside to speak to Andy about the Mod
>> and
>> my misgivings about it. Andy has done a lot of testing on the setup and
>> he
>> showed me the new balance arm. It is made of thicker wall tubing and has
>> a
>> considerably more substantial adjuster assembly replacing the original
>> TP18A
>> adjuster. Andy also conducted some load tests on the original arm (in
>> the
>> vertical plane) he found that the test arm initialy twisted and then the
>> lower tube buckled - he showed me the failed item. I am not sure
>> whether
>> the arm was installed in the aircraft, with cables attached, or whether
>> it
>> was just a straightforward bench test - if it was a bench test I doubt
>> whether any cables were installed - perhaps if cables had been attached
>> the
>> inital twist prior to failure might have been delayed. However, the new
>> arm
>> is much stronger and should do the job nicely - but there are no cable
>> attachment lugs.
>>
>> I asked Andy why he had discarded the cables? His reason was purely to
>> make
>> the installation easier for owners. I explained my turnbuckle
>> arrangement.
>> to which he replied that it was not a problem and Europa could easily put
>> the cable attachment lugs on the new arm. Remember that the identified
>> weakness is in the vertical plane of the mass balance arm not in the
>> cable
>> system. I asked if he would contact Francis Donaldson, but he said that
>> he
>> would be happy for me to do it - as the new arm would be fitted with the
>> existing, proven engineering - it should require no flight testing. As
>> it
>> happens my aircraft is in the workshop for its' permit renewal so I
>> removed
>> the D panel and the fuselage access panels and had a good look around.
>> The
>> fitting of the turnbuckles to install the new balance arm would actually
>> be
>> quite easy. After carefully measuring and marking the cables so that the
>> end of the turnbuckle can be fitted in the correct place, the cables can
>> be
>> cut as far forward as possible, that is just short of the cable lugs.
>> Now
>> if the fuselage access panel, on the right side by the tail is in the
>> standard position, the cut end of the cables can be brought outside the
>> fuselage and the turnbuckle end swaged in comfort. The other end of the
>> turnbuckle can be fitted to the attachment lug on the arm using a
>> standard
>> fork fitting, cotter pin and split pin. The new arm is then installed
>> onto
>> the torque tube and with minimal time in the rear fuselage, the barrels
>> of
>> the turnbuckle are fitted, the arm is adjusted to the centre of the
>> pushrod
>> containment assembly, the tension set on the cables and finally locking
>> wires fitted to the turnbuckles. It may be necessary to drill a little
>> out
>> of the mass balance weights to reset the balance.
>> Now the point is that if some europas, because arranging the mass balance
>> arm normal to the torque shaft is not a given, and the containment
>> assemble
>> was built around the already installed mass balance arm. It is quite
>> likely
>> that the resting place of the new uncabled arm is not going to be in the
>> same place. This means that the pitch tube containment attachment
>> brackets
>> will have to be moved, and quite likely the fit of the ply around the
>> pitch
>> tube itself may need adjusting. How much time will be required down the
>> black hole to do that!!! Using the existing cables would avoid all those
>> problems. I asked Andy why he hadn't considered using turnbuckles, his
>> comment - - "Well people might not have any turnbuckles."
>>
>> What worries me is that this big lump of steel is going to be free to
>> move
>> left and right at will, perhaps hundreds of times in an hour in
>> opposition
>> to the slightest yaw of the aircraft. How much could it move? I noted
>> that
>> a value of 4mm was mentioned on this forum. In fact, Para 5 of step 3 of
>> the modification leaflet states - "The diameter of the mass balance
>> weights
>> is 50mm, and the nominal clearance is 2mm each side - check that the
>> clearance achieved is between 1mm and 4mm each side". I interpret that
>> to
>> mean that the lateral movement of the arm could be 8 mm. Such a movement
>> does not take into account the flexing of the plywood of the pitch
>> containment assembly - not the sturdiest of structures. In real terms
>> this
>> new arrangement could have these not insignificant balance weights
>> 'clonking' left and right by maybe 12mm. Is this movement likely to
>> cause
>> any fatigue problems at the attachment points on the torque shaft -
>> perhaps
>> one of the forum metallurgists could advise.
>>
>> I discussed this movement with Andy and he said that the weight moves
>> even
>> with the cables. If they are fitted in the manner described in the build
>> manual I can see that there might be some movement. With properly
>> tensioned
>> cables, there is negligible movement.
>>
>> Actually, it is not outside the realms of possibility that a fracture of
>> the original TP18A could be accellerated because of lateral movement
>> caused
>> by slack cables.
>>
>> The bottom line is that, the history of why the cables were originally
>> fitted to the mass balance arm is irrelevant. Many Europas have done may
>> thousands of hours flying with he current mass balance arm configuration
>> without a problem. Now following the fracture of one TP18A on an
>> aircraft
>> that has suffered 1 or more landing incidents we are all to fit stronger
>> mass balance arms. Changing the arm is the right thing to do. But I
>> totally disagree that discarding the cables is the right thing to do. It
>> is
>> one aircraft modified and tested at the factory for a few hours against
>> the
>> experience of the whole fleet.
>>
>> I understand from Bob Harrison that since I spoke to Andy Draper he has
>> been
>> told by his boss that he cannot put the lugs on the new arms as he
>> promised
>> me. It seems that the only way we can incorporate this modified
>> component
>> is the way Europa 2004 say, because that is what they have worked out and
>> tested. I smell commercial pressure here.
>>
>> I fear we are in danger of throwing the baby out with the bath water!!!!
>>
>> I have sent this email to the forum in the hope that someone can allay my
>> fears about MOD 70 - perhaps it might generate some positive comment.
>>
>>
>> regards,
>>
>> Mike Parkin (G-JULZ - hiding in the corner of the workshop with cables a
>> quivering.)
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com>
>> To:
>> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 70
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Fred,
>>>
>>> It wasn't stripped threads - the threaded portion sheared in two.
>>>
>>> Tim,
>>>
>>> I offered and you declined. OK, I'm 6' and 220lbs, but I still contend
>>> you're being fussy! :-)
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Jeremy
>>>
>>> Jeremy Davey
>>> Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
>>> Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
>>> PFA EC Member
>>> If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it
>>> is
>>> possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
>>> Tail done
>>> Standard XS wings with mods underway
>>> CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
>>> 1390 build hours to date
>>> Intended fit:
>>> Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
>>> Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
>>>
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred
>>> Fillinger
>>> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
>>>
>>>
>>> "R.C.Harrison" wrote:
>>>> ...
>>>> I understand that the part that broke ( Having been previously under
>>>> extraneous circumstances!) was actually the adjuster screw thread,
>>>
>>> I think I'm beginning to understand. There is considerable inertia in
>>> the counterweight, and a few good whacks to the tail in occasional
>>> hard landings would put the lower arm components in compression once
>>> too often, stripping threads? The rebound may not help either. I
>>> know this is amateur engineering, but perhaps the trigear doesn't
>>> suffer as badly in ungraceful handling, because the force exerted on
>>> the counterweight will be less abrupt. Hope so.
>>>
>>> Reg,
>>> Fred F.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: 912-S support ring |
| From: | "steve v." <s.vestuti(at)virgin.net> |
1.64 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
0.10 TO_EMPTY To: is empty
hi , looking at the 912S engine from the rear , the bottom left water pipe should
be an " 80 deg. type " part no. 922230 - rotax cd sect 29 page 9-3 . the other
3 are the standard 45 deg types , cheers, steve #573
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
| Subject: | 912-S support ring |
Hi,
Have just done this with support from a Rotax-dealer.
The port bottom one should be changed to 80 degrees outlet tubes
from Rotax. Don't forget to take the pump of first. New seal must be
added when putting it back. Also the upper tube has to be removed in
order
to get the bottom one of. 120-130 degrees Celsius is what it needs,
locally.
It can be a good idea to wait until the engine is mounted. After the new
tube has been connected it must not point to much downwards i.e. as
close as possible to the support ring. Otherwise the hose will get too
close to the silencer. (My was to close and have to take the pump of and
start over again)
By the way. ROTAX calls for Loctite 243 instead of Loctite 680 in new
manuals. This probably because 680 is very strong and difficult to deal
after cure.
Good luck
Stephan
#556
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan
McFadyean
Subject: Re: Europa-List: 912-S support ring
They're not pressed in but screwed in, with copious amounts of Loctite
680.
They can be heated up and moved. But you only have one shot at it and
you
need to get it hot enough, otherwise there is a good chance they'll
leak.
Alternately, take them out completely, clean them up and reset with
fresh
Loctite.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "N55XS" <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Europa-List: 912-S support ring
>
> Guys,
> My 912-S arrived today, along with the mount ring. I got the ring
> bolted up, without too much trouble, however there is a problem with
the
> alignment of the water pump outlet tubes on the port side. They are
> pointing directly at the supports, preventing me from hooking up the
> hoses, on that side. It looks as if the tubes are pressed into the
> water pump housing. Anyone have any idea on how to twist/realign the
> tubes so that the rubber hoses will connect?
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> --
> Jeff - A055
> Only the engine stuff left to do...
>
>
> --
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Fairall" <b_fairall(at)fairalls.co.uk> |
Wehey!
Guess what the postman's just brought me!!
One Mod 70!
I should explain, I asked to be prioritised for my 'Classic' (Kit 71,
G-BXLK, 400 trouble free hours) because, although not on 'the list', as the
Permit to Fly ran out on Thursday of this past week by the criteria laid
down I'm grounded until both annual AND Mod 70 are completed.
(I'm also now building an 'XS', kit 494, but being no where near putting the
lid on I asked Roger to put me to the back of the queue).
So, I have it, and I think Europa should be commended for this speedy
delivery. I shall email them accordingly.
Next question, do I want to fit it .........? I WILL fit it, obviously. But
do I WANT to fit it ...... call me an arrogant 'big head', but I spent a
very long time setting up the restraining cables in my aircraft, and without
turnbuckles (only 'cos I'm stoopid and didn't think of that :-) and the
existing set-up works perfectly, no signs of distress, no sideways movement
to speak of, doesn't rub on anything, doesn't clonk from side to side, no
ground loops or heavy landings to have weakened it or any of the multitude
of other parts that such events may inflict on any aircraft ........... but,
like others on this forum, I'm only an amateur engineer, so what do I know
.....?
Do I WANT to fit it ................ ummmmmmmmmm.
What if my second Mod 70 for my XS arrives a few months down the line,
marked as 'Mod 70 Mk 2', with no rubbing strips included and, instead, cable
restraining lugs welded on ........ ummmmmmm ........ errrrrrrrr .........
Would I want to retrofit a Mod 70 Mk 2 to my 'Classic' ....... ummmmmm
......... errrrrr. I think Mike Parkin and others have raised some very
pertinent issues.
Added to this, I have a personal problem! My other 'toy' is a Gazelle
helicopter, hence I'm a helicopter pilot too. And what that means is this
....... as American newsman Harry Reasoner once wrote:-
Airplane pilots are open, clear eyed, buoyant, extroverts, and helicopter
pilots are brooding, introspective anticipators of trouble. They know that
if something bad hasnt happened, it is about to!
I'm uneasy. I'd like to know more ...........
Bob Fairall (Europa 71 & 494 & Gazelle helicopter)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
Bob,
Yup... I got one too. Complete without cable attachment lugs. I will not
be doing anything hasty at the moment.
regards,
Mike Parkin
PS The estimated cost of 45.00 became 58.16 delivered - not too bad I
guess.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Fairall" <b_fairall(at)fairalls.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
>
> Wehey!
>
> Guess what the postman's just brought me!!
>
> One Mod 70!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Fairall" <b_fairall(at)fairalls.co.uk> |
I've certainly no complaints about the price ...... we need Europa to
survive and in healthy fashion, which means making a profit. If they don't
make a profit, support disappears, along with our dream machines!
And looking at what you get for 58 including carriage and tax, if anything
I'm concerned they're charging enough. (Now I'm REALLY unpopular!). I
suspect if I asked a local engineering company to make that lot, the charge
would be easily into 3 figures.
I think they're being VERY fair in charging what I suspect is barely, if at
all, covering their costs ...........
Bob Fairall (71 & 494)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of MICHAEL
PARKIN
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
Bob,
Yup... I got one too. Complete without cable attachment lugs. I will not
be doing anything hasty at the moment.
regards,
Mike Parkin
PS The estimated cost of 45.00 became 58.16 delivered - not too bad I
guess.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Fairall" <b_fairall(at)fairalls.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
>
> Wehey!
>
> Guess what the postman's just brought me!!
>
> One Mod 70!
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
Hello..........
Please put me in the "turnbuckles too" category. It was short,
sharp and dead easy compared to using four hands to tighten, adust and
fabricate inb one swell foop.
I see no advantage whatsoever to cutting the apronstrings and
throwing them away, so - barring Europa permission, I'll take the new rod to
a welder and have the ears for the turnbuckles put on. My reason is greater
than above. Once in, is was so easy to adjust the turnbuckle tension to
achieve centre position of the weights, I had to chuckle. In fact for
future adjustments, I have six t'bucks in all - two on counterweight arm,
two in tail section (tailwheel cleanup) and two in centre section of rudder
cables.
They are marked with liquid plastic to indicate proper re-install position
and tighten/loosen direction, so I can actually 'do' them without looking
directly.
To Tim Cripps - if you haven't ordered mine yet, please indicate
desire for cable flanges on new rod............... I will take "no" for an
answer but only if everyone does...
Hold high the torch -----
Ferg
A064 mono 914
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaForum <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | MonoWheel + OverCenter Stop. |
I'd like to thank Ron Parigoris for getting it through my head that
the gear over center stop is a positive over center. Ron also told me
how to set things up to check this measurement. His setup worked
nicely even with the entire gear assemble installed. ( it isn't any
more ) I installed the swing arms per the manual, and went on my
merry way. Did I miss, somewhere in the manual where it says this is
a positive over center stop and a way to check this, or a
measurement? I searched the old archives ( thanks Andrew, http://
www.sarangan.org/europa_forum/ ) and found a measurement of 1.5mm, .
060 or 1/16. I was much luckier than Ron, removing the powder coat
from the stops got me dead even. I think if I use a little blueing on
the swing arms then file the witness marks off the stops, I just
might make the 1/16th of an inch, and have flush contact. But now my
FL24 up and down gate is junk and the rubbing block has to come out,
and all my flap setting have to be redone. Wish I new about this
sooner, but on the bright side I didn't find out about it the hard
way. I was standing near a 80 inch valve once when a 2 1/2 inch
hardened steel actuating arm snapped like a twig, because someone set
a positive over center stop. Funny how things like that have you
blocking out the very idea of a positive stop with out even thinking
about it.
Chat Later,
Steved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Rmi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)wanadoo.fr> |
From: "R\351mi Guerner" <ai...
I am not happy with the design of Mod 70, especially with the lack of positive
lateral guidance of the balance arm and those awful rubbing blocs. From the description
of the incident, I understand that the part which broke was the AN490HT8P
fitting. So why is it necessary to replace the whole balance arm assembly
? Providing our authorities do not force us to implement the Mod 70 as it is
Do not remove the cables. Do not remove the balance arm. Remove the bolt on the
lower arm. Remove the TP18A/AN490HT8P/AN316-4R assembly without changing the
original adjustment. Design and machine a single piece replacement. Make sure
the 4.8 mm holes are drilled at the same distance as the original assembly. This
would allow the same tailplane movement range as before. Install the new fitting.
I see a lot of benefit in this fix, when compared to the Mod 70 : the cables are
retained. No possible additionnal friction on rubbing blocs. No threads to be
stressed. Easier to fit. Cheaper.
Am I missing something ?
Remi
F-PGKL, XS S/N395 monowheel, 310 hours, 22 hours since upgraded from a 914 to a
912S.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale" <gdh(at)isp.com> |
Bob,
Why don't you come up with one of your "Fixes" a la Torque clamp and design
a clamp that would fit over both the adjuster and 5 or 6 inches of the tube?
It seems to me this would be a much simpler approach and permit us to retain
our Turnbuckle adjusted cables!
Thanks,
Dale
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
> Hi! Will
> The Mod 70 only allows 4mm side play.
> I understand that the part that broke ( Having been previously under
> extraneous circumstances!) was actually the adjuster screw thread,
> prompting further calculation of the members themselves. As to whether
> it was vertical stress or lateral stress I'm unaware, but the maximum
> 4mm side play may give the clue! With the cables tensioned correctly
> there's no side play.
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
> Daniell
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
>
>
> For those of us not covered by the PFA and who have a little difficulty
> and
> cost getting stuff from the UK.
>
> As I understand it the Tailplane mass balance arm broke at the lower
> strut
> where it joins by means of the adjustable connector to the TP torque
> tube.
>
> The issue is not the cables but the strength (or perhaps more accurately
> the
> fatigue resistance) of the mass balance arm in the face of vertical
> stresses.
>
> Could this be solved by simply reinforcing the mass balance arm? For
> example by welding a sleeve over the lower tube.
>
> I share Fred's concern that continuous friction and sideways play even
> if
> only 8mm can not be a good situation .in an airplane context.
>
> Will
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fred
> Fillinger
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 70
>
>
>> "R.C.Harrison" wrote:
>> ...
>> but it doesn't mean that slides are a more
>> professional fix to our solution in the first place.
>
> I can agree there, if one will be able to feel the friction.
> Especially if one doesn't fly a lot of hours, it seems the
> counterweight will be in a permanent, "frictiony" rust condition. I
> would have suggested Teflon, rather than phenolic.
>
> Reg,
> Fred F.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: RE: 912-S support ring |
steve v. wrote:
>
>hi , looking at the 912S engine from the rear , the bottom left water pipe should
be an " 80 deg. type " part no. 922230 - rotax cd sect 29 page 9-3 . the other
3 are the standard 45 deg types , cheers, steve #573
>----------------
>Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
>
>
>
>
Steve,
Thanks for the information.
--
Jeff A055
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 912-S support ring |
Stephan Cassel wrote:
>
>Hi,
>
>Have just done this with support from a Rotax-dealer.
>
>The port bottom one should be changed to 80 degrees outlet tubes
>from Rotax. Don't forget to take the pump of first. New seal must be
>added when putting it back. Also the upper tube has to be removed in
>order
>to get the bottom one of. 120-130 degrees Celsius is what it needs,
>locally.
>
>It can be a good idea to wait until the engine is mounted. After the new
>tube has been connected it must not point to much downwards i.e. as
>close as possible to the support ring. Otherwise the hose will get too
>close to the silencer. (My was to close and have to take the pump of and
>start over again)
>
>By the way. ROTAX calls for Loctite 243 instead of Loctite 680 in new
>manuals. This probably because 680 is very strong and difficult to deal
>after cure.
>
>Good luck
>Stephan
>#556
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan
>McFadyean
>To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: 912-S support ring
>
>
>
>They're not pressed in but screwed in, with copious amounts of Loctite
>680.
>They can be heated up and moved. But you only have one shot at it and
>you
>need to get it hot enough, otherwise there is a good chance they'll
>leak.
>Alternately, take them out completely, clean them up and reset with
>fresh
>Loctite.
>
>Duncan McF.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "N55XS" <topglock(at)cox.net>
>To:
>Subject: Europa-List: 912-S support ring
>
>
>
>
>>
>>Guys,
>>My 912-S arrived today, along with the mount ring. I got the ring
>>bolted up, without too much trouble, however there is a problem with
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>alignment of the water pump outlet tubes on the port side. They are
>>pointing directly at the supports, preventing me from hooking up the
>>hoses, on that side. It looks as if the tubes are pressed into the
>>water pump housing. Anyone have any idea on how to twist/realign the
>>tubes so that the rubber hoses will connect?
>>
>> Thanks in advance...
>>
>>--
>>Jeff - A055
>>Only the engine stuff left to do...
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Thanks to everyone who responded. I'll be contacting my distributor for
the correct part, on Monday...
--
Jeff - A055
Only engine stuff left to do...
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "davebuzz" <davebuzz(at)aol.com> |
Hello Mike,
I have turnbuckles in 'UM, modded through the PFA back in 1997. I will
call EA2004 next week and we will see what happens - I will get back to you
and the Members/list when I have something to say, so it may take a day or
three! BTW It is a holiday weekend in the UK so the Factory/PFA wont be back
until Tuesday.
As for Mod70 now, Pete Jeffers will be applying that to his
(un-turnbuckled) group Europa midweek, with the group members flying it
afterwards, and he has offered to report (roses, warts and all) on the
installation and flying qualities by the end of next weekend (8 May). Some
of you may wish to read that before installing the Mod, perhaps it will
allay perceptions and fears, perhaps not.
We'll put the report up for you all when its ready, but don't expect it
till next weekend.
Dave Bosomworth
Europa Club Chairman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Baker <galahav(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | May 21 2005 Benton, Kansas |
Hi all,
Big Fly in in Benton, Kansas
May 21 2005
Come see us,
http://www.bentonairpark.com/metadot/index.pl
http://www.airnav.com/airport/1K1
Mary & Mike Baker
Benton, KS
Europa A286
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Not mod 70, scd (somethingcompletelydifferent) |
| From: | "josok" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
1.64 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
0.10 TO_EMPTY To: is empty
Hi All,
The only thing it has to do with the europa is that it is a taildragger, hopefully
my monowhell to be can do iceflying too!
http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=Skiplane_1_May_2005&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
and please try to reassemble the whole url?
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Trim Speed controller |
Hi all,
I have just fitted a trim speed controller sold by Matt Drilled to N378PJ. I have
test flown it for about 2 hours and the aircraft is now much more easily trimmed
out. Previously I found that the smallest jab of trim would often be too
much, but now with Matt's speed controller it trims out very nicely. For anyone
thinking about making the trim less sensitive I can recommend it.
Regards, Paul
206 hours and still grinning
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Cure for intermittent flap motor |
Following indications on this Forum that the above problem could be cured by
cleaning of the flap motor brushes, and a request for feedback on the work
involved, here's a summary plus long version of what's involved:
Summary:
Cleaning the flap motor commutator and brushes cures intermittent flap motor
operation and speeds up flap movement..
Long Version:
The commutator and brushes of the (early type) flap motor can become
contaminated with lubricant from the tail bearing of the motor. This bearing
is a micro-ball race with a labyrinth seal; any excess or additional
lubricant drip-fed into the bearing will pass straight down on to the
commutator.
The flap motor/servo does not need to be taken off the aircraft and the work
can be done in situ, gaining access through the D-cover in the back of the
cockpit. A pile of cushions in the back of the cockpit provides some comfort
while doing the work. In particular a very thick blanket draped over the
edge of the D-cover aperture provides relief to the armpits when leaning
through the aperture.
There are two Phillips-headed screws on top of the motor casing; these
screws pass the full length of the motor and hold everything together.
Remove the screws. Withdraw the end housing (which retains the tail bearing)
and brush holder. The spring loaded brushes will pop out of the holder, but
are electrically connected by wire tails, so won't fall out on to the floor.
The casing of the motor (which holds the permanent field magnets) can also
be withdrawn, but this is not essential. The armature is captured at the
gearbox end of the servo, so won't come out. However, there are a number of
steel shims on the tail-end of the armature that can be dislodged as the end
housing is withdrawn; these shims can fall off and become 'stuck' to the
field magnets in the outer casing; with poor light, it's difficult to spot
that this has happened. There is one insulating washer under the stack of
shims.
Commutator and brushes can now be cleaned; Q-tip (cotton bud) helps with the
latter.
Now the fiddly bit of holding back the brush-springs while getting the
brushes back into the holder. This can be easily achieved with a 1/2" to
5/8" wide strip of stiff card inserted edgewise between the springs, holding
the springs back while the brushes are reinserted into the holder. There is
a convenient slot in the brush holder provided for this purpose and prevents
the piece of stiff card from slipping out during this operation.The brush
holder can now be placed back in position over the commutator and, when in
place, the strip of stiff card withdrawn allowing the springs to push the
brushes down on to the commutator.
Reseat end housing, reinsert the two Phillips-headed screws and retreat from
aircraft.
Done.
Duncan McF.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: Not mod 70, scd (somethingcompletelydifferent) |
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
This Url Works also:
http://www.europaowners.org/Skiplane_1_May_2005
Steved
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mikes Fears, Mod 70 |
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Received-SPF: none
>>> Your fears are shared in my hanger as well. In that I am in the USA,
I will take my new stronger mass balance arm to my trusty welder and
have a cable attachment flange put on it. As you so wisely concluded,
the cable installation was not designed well. The idea is fine, but if a
builder can not do it well, it is a bad design. I installed the
turnbuckles and feel that fixed the design problem.
Your comments are reflected by some in NZ also and I know of three
builders who, myself included, will be welding a cable attachment
flange to it and using the existing turnbuckle tensioned stay wires on
it. My father, who is a mechanical engineer, told me many years ago that
if you want something to stay put make it out of triangles and that's
what I intend retaining on my mass balance arm.
Regards
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest:9 Msgs - 05/01/05 |
Hi All,
The only thing it has to do with the europa is that it is a taildragger, hopefully
my monowhell to be can do iceflying too!
Jos!
that was a nice day you took those pictures! This Spring seems to be warmer to
me, here in Derbyshire anyway, maybe your ice will melt sooner than a month?
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Europa-List Digest:9 Msgs - 05/01/05 |
Hi all,
I have just fitted a trim speed controller sold by Matt Drilled to N378PJ. I have
test flown it for about 2 hours and the aircraft is now much more easily trimmed
out. Previously I found that the smallest jab of trim would often be too
much, but now with Matt's speed controller it trims out very nicely. For anyone
thinking about making the trim less sensitive I can recommend it.
Regards, Paul
206 hours and still grinning
Paul
wish I had fitted it to GKWIP! Might have avoided the last straw!
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Stills" <astills(at)senecawholesale.com> |
Does anyone know where the Interior Kit that John Hurst marketed in the US come
from or have any contact info for them.
Al Stills
N625AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Interior Kit |
Al Stills wrote:
>
>Does anyone know where the Interior Kit that John Hurst marketed in the US come
from or have any contact info for them.
>Al Stills
>N625AZ
>
>
>
Al,
I do not have the contact information for the company that John used,
however with very little effort, one can do the interior, himself. The
carpet is easy and can be done for around $100, all inclusive. If
you're handy with a sewing machine, you can do the seats for much less
than an upholsterer would charge. I built mine out of naugahide, which
will do fine until I find a design I like, in leather. I'll then sub
the construction out to a pro.
You can see pictures of the work in progress at my build site
http://www.n55xs.com They are scattered out from October 2004 thru
January 2005. Hope this helps.
--
Jeff - A055
Working on FWF - Projecting first flight in 90 days, or so...
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Interior Kit |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Al Hi!
> Does anyone know where the Interior Kit that John Hurst marketed in the US
> come from or have any contact info for them.
It used to be at one time:
Chuck Rhodig
A to Z Interiors
3537 Lori Lane N
Lakeland, FL 33801
United States Of America
863-665-8124
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Stills" <astills(at)senecawholesale.com> |
Gerry
Thanks for the info, I'll post if their still in business.
Al Stills
N625AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Boulet <possibletodo(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Interior Kit |
Chuck Rhodig was doing them. However he's retired. Maybe he could refer you
Work 863-665-8124
Work Address
3537 Lori Lane N.
Lakeland, FL 33801
Good luck;
Paul Boulet, N914PB
"10 hours flown off during my testing period this past week- lands/flies like a
dream!"
Malibu, CA
Al Stills wrote:
Does anyone know where the Interior Kit that John Hurst marketed in the US come
from or have any contact info for them.
Al Stills
N625AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Al Stills" <astills(at)senecawholesale.com> |
Gerry,
Looks like A to Z is out of business, Phone no good any more
Al Stills
N625Az
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | toe brake parts wanted |
| From: | "steve v." <s.vestuti(at)virgin.net> |
1.64 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
0.10 TO_EMPTY To: is empty
hi all, if anyone out there has converted their trigear braking system from toe
to finger , i am looking for a pair of " BO1 & BO2 " angle plates for toe brake
system & possibly a toe master cylinder , many thanks steve #573 , s.vestuti(at)virgin.net
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | toe brake parts wanted |
| From: | "steve v." <s.vestuti(at)virgin.net> |
1.64 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
0.10 TO_EMPTY To: is empty
hi all, if anyone out there has converted their trigear braking system from toe
to finger , i am looking for a pair of " BO1 & BO2 " angle plates for toe brake
system & possibly a toe master cylinder , many thanks steve #573 , s.vestuti(at)virgin.net
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | toe brake parts wanted |
I can't help you by providing parts, but since I did want brakes in BOTH
footwells I have drawings and CNC code that I can provide to you for the
B01P and B01S brackets for the starboard side. Note that the starboard side
is not the same as the port side, but making the changes is not difficult.
The master cylinders supplied by Europa with my kit are from
http://www.kartcomponents.com/KCEng.html (yup, these are Go Kart brake
master cylinders).
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of steve v.
Subject: Europa-List: toe brake parts wanted
hi all, if anyone out there has converted their trigear braking system from
toe to finger , i am looking for a pair of " BO1 & BO2 " angle plates for
toe brake system & possibly a toe master cylinder , many thanks steve #573 ,
s.vestuti(at)virgin.net , 01269 861527.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Robert Berube" <bberube(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
Chuck is no longer doing the kits. He has moved and retired from that
business. At Flight Crafters, we have worked with other upholstery shops
but have yet to find one that has the desire to do kits.
Regards,
Bob Berube
Flight Crafters
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Holland
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Interior Kit
Al Hi!
> Does anyone know where the Interior Kit that John Hurst marketed in the US
> come from or have any contact info for them.
It used to be at one time:
Chuck Rhodig
A to Z Interiors
3537 Lori Lane N
Lakeland, FL 33801
United States Of America
863-665-8124
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "MICHAEL PARKIN" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btopenworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: toe brake parts wanted |
Hi Rob,
Most interesting to see the origin of the brake master cylinder. Looking at
their catalogue I did note that they specify Super DOT4 brake fluid only for
their brake products.
regards,
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Housman" <robh@hyperion-ef.us>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: toe brake parts wanted
>
> I can't help you by providing parts, but since I did want brakes in BOTH
> footwells I have drawings and CNC code that I can provide to you for the
> B01P and B01S brackets for the starboard side. Note that the starboard
> side
> is not the same as the port side, but making the changes is not difficult.
> The master cylinders supplied by Europa with my kit are from
> http://www.kartcomponents.com/KCEng.html (yup, these are Go Kart brake
> master cylinders).
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Rob Housman
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Hello Cliff
Hope all is doing well by you.
Our motor and prop are on order, looking forward to tackling the pointy end!
Thinking about how to incorporate a Cowl Flap, and like your set up. I don't
have any feel for what sort of loads such a thing has.
Can you give me some sort of heads up as to how hard it is to deploy, are your
hinges robust enough, is there a speed max, and max deploy if closed speed? If
you were to do it again, any comments?
I have glider wings, and plan on installing a oil thermostat as well.
Thx.
Sincerely
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: toe brake parts wanted |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Steve Hi!
Further to our phone conversation.
Please find attached some photos.
Choke 2 - The revised position for Choke
Brake Unit - underside of Unit showing assembly and Park brake
G-FIZY - Europa almost fully painted. Needs Cowlings and speed kit in Silver
plus Vinyl d=E9cor.
Will dispatch these Items when I have your address.
Hope all works out.
Kind Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk" <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: toe brake parts wanted |
Hi Steve,
I have converted my tri gear to finger brakes and have all
the parts for the foot brakes stored in my hangar (actually its a big
shed, but I call it my hangar :-) .) your welcome to any of the bits you
require. get in touch off list.
danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk
Danny G-c.e.r.i. 541
Steve v. wrote:
>
>hi all, if anyone out there has converted their trigear braking system from toe
to finger , i am looking for a pair of " BO1 & BO2 " angle plates for toe brake
system & possibly a toe master cylinder , many thanks steve #573 , s.vestuti(at)virgin.net
>----------------
>Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
Hi! Ron.
Take a look at my hot air exit flap for my Jabiru 3300. However I never
use it because it did not contribute to the engine cooling! But for
Rotax users who knows?
Look on http://WWW.crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk/europa.htm select "Bob
Harrison's Europa G-PTAG Then "cooling mods" then scroll down to "hot
air exit flap" and "vent flap linkage".
I already have the lower cowl "jacked" about 1.5" away from the fuselage
which with the existing reverse scoop still provides adequate hot air
escape volume even though the engine is totally air cooled.
The theory on my flap was that it would provide more vacuum effect and
lower the cowl air pressure. In reality I think it was a good air
brake!
I stiffened up the existing cut out by the use of some balsa ribs
glassed to the inside running along the airflow and the whole flap is
hinged by two 3" lengths of aileron hinge at the front.
The problem that may be encountered is "flutter" at high speed, mine
doesn't but probably by more luck than judgement !
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG Europa MKI/Jabiru 3300
Robt.C.Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ronald J.
Parigoris
Subject: Europa-List: Cowl flaps?
Hello Cliff
Hope all is doing well by you.
Our motor and prop are on order, looking forward to tackling the pointy
end!
Thinking about how to incorporate a Cowl Flap, and like your set up. I
don't
have any feel for what sort of loads such a thing has.
Can you give me some sort of heads up as to how hard it is to deploy,
are your
hinges robust enough, is there a speed max, and max deploy if closed
speed? If
you were to do it again, any comments?
I have glider wings, and plan on installing a oil thermostat as well.
Thx.
Sincerely
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Ron
Thanks for looking at my build pictures http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
I have not noticed a high force on the cowl flap. It does make a slight
difference in the nose down trim a cruse flight speed. I copied the build
that Bob Harrison shows in his pictures.
It is made of 1/16" alum. I used a standard boden cable that I bought from
AC. The 2 hinges are .75 alum. aircraft hinges 3 inches long. The flap when
closed leaves a 3 inch slot open at it's trailing edge. (It does not close
off the air exit completely) It is not directly connected to the boden
cable. It is spring returned to the up position.
Hope this helps. remember, "I am an armature aircraft builder :) "
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Europa-List: Cowl flaps?
>
>
> Hello Cliff
>
> Hope all is doing well by you.
>
> Our motor and prop are on order, looking forward to tackling the pointy
> end!
>
> Thinking about how to incorporate a Cowl Flap, and like your set up. I
> don't
> have any feel for what sort of loads such a thing has.
>
> Can you give me some sort of heads up as to how hard it is to deploy, are
> your
> hinges robust enough, is there a speed max, and max deploy if closed
> speed? If
> you were to do it again, any comments?
>
> I have glider wings, and plan on installing a oil thermostat as well.
>
> Thx.
> Sincerely
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
Hello Cliff
Thx. for the reply.
Do you think your design allows for less drag when closed hence better glide?
Do you think it would help warm things up when closed on a cold glider motor?
How about on the ground when starting could?
Do you think it helps cooling when on the ground a long time in hot, and on
long climbs?
2 more unrelated questions.
What sort of tool do you use for removing your magnetic plug on the crankcase
near the oil filter, a Torx T-40 or a Torx Plus IP-40? They are supposed to be
inspected every other oil change.
Where did you get interior, or stuff for your interior?
Thx.
Sincerely
Ron Parigoris
Cliff Shaw wrote:
>
> Ron
>
> Thanks for looking at my build pictures http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
> I have not noticed a high force on the cowl flap. It does make a slight
> difference in the nose down trim a cruse flight speed. I copied the build
> that Bob Harrison shows in his pictures.
>
> It is made of 1/16" alum. I used a standard boden cable that I bought from
> AC. The 2 hinges are .75 alum. aircraft hinges 3 inches long. The flap when
> closed leaves a 3 inch slot open at it's trailing edge. (It does not close
> off the air exit completely) It is not directly connected to the boden
> cable. It is spring returned to the up position.
>
> Hope this helps. remember, "I am an armature aircraft builder :) "
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
> http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Cowl flaps?
>
> >
> >
> > Hello Cliff
> >
> > Hope all is doing well by you.
> >
> > Our motor and prop are on order, looking forward to tackling the pointy
> > end!
> >
> > Thinking about how to incorporate a Cowl Flap, and like your set up. I
> > don't
> > have any feel for what sort of loads such a thing has.
> >
> > Can you give me some sort of heads up as to how hard it is to deploy, are
> > your
> > hinges robust enough, is there a speed max, and max deploy if closed
> > speed? If
> > you were to do it again, any comments?
> >
> > I have glider wings, and plan on installing a oil thermostat as well.
> >
> > Thx.
> > Sincerely
> > Ron Parigoris
> >
> >
> >
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | xs cooling gills |
Do I open up the rearward or front facing sections of the cooling gills on the
top cowling?
Manual says open up the 'flat' surface.
It does not take much to confuse me and both surfaces are curved!
Thanks
Mike Gamble
XS 440
Just received the FWF kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | RE: toe brake parts wanted |
| From: | "steve v." <s.vestuti(at)virgin.net> |
1.64 REPLY_TO_EMPTY Reply-To: is empty
0.10 TO_EMPTY To: is empty
i would like to say a big thanks to all those that contacted me for the toe brake
spares , & thanks for the offer of the stb. side drawings , but ,i`m only putting
2-3 hours a night in so i going to have to keep it simple ! cheers steve
#573
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Bob Jacobsen" <jacobsenra(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | xs cooling gills |
Mike,
I found (and many others have) that opening up all 4 "gills" on both sides
lets out to much air. I eventually would up closing off two on each side -
leaving two open.
You open up the inside edge.
Also it helps cooling if you cut the cowl lip on the front bottom cowling
back. I cut mine way back and added some foam behind it to smooth out the
airflow entering the oil and water coolers. This helped lower my ground
running temp's quite a bit.
Bob Jacobsen
A131
>From: "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net>
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Europa-List: xs cooling gills
>Date: Tue, 3 May 2005 20:48:09 +0100
>
>
>Do I open up the rearward or front facing sections of the cooling gills on
>the top cowling?
>Manual says open up the 'flat' surface.
>It does not take much to confuse me and both surfaces are curved!
>Thanks
>Mike Gamble
>XS 440
>Just received the FWF kit.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: xs cooling gills |
Mike
The louvers are design to be exits. Hot air is to exit the engine
compartment through them. So, cut out the aft facing surface.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: xs cooling gills
>
> Do I open up the rearward or front facing sections of the cooling gills on
> the top cowling?
> Manual says open up the 'flat' surface.
> It does not take much to confuse me and both surfaces are curved!
> Thanks
> Mike Gamble
> XS 440
> Just received the FWF kit.
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Ron
My answers are in red.
1. Do you think your design allows for less drag when closed hence better glide?
Yes
2. Do you think it would help warm things up when closed on a cold glider motor?
I don't know that much about gliders.
3. How about on the ground when starting could? It will warm up faster.
4. Do you think it helps cooling when on the ground a long time in hot, and on
long climbs? Yes defently helps.
5. What sort of tool do you use for removing your magnetic plug on the crankcasenear
the oil filter, a Torx T-40 or a Torx Plus IP-40? They are supposed to beinspected
every other oil change. T-40. I did not find anything.
6. Where did you get interior, or stuff for your interior? The wife and I went
to lots of faberic stores to find what we used. The overhead is covered with a
special material used in the marine inderstry for that same perpose. It is stretchie
and fits the curves very nicely.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Mikes Fears, Mod 70 |
Tony and all
I can't underestand what all the fuss is about in Retaining the cables.
We put them there because that was what was approved. What they have to do
most of the time is little -
When the fuse is standing vertical the weights may touch lightly on one side
or the other and friction zilch.
In a balanced turn it is the same.
It seems to me that the only time the weight may push firmly against the
limit structure is if one wing is being retarded enough to begin turning the
aircraft, say in entering a ground loop or it a wing hits something solid
when it could possibly break the structure. In this case you will be out of
action for some time anyway working on wing repairs. But you would have had
no time to experience any increased friction in the pitch control mechanism.
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz - and yes I did spend some time studying
structures.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mikes Fears, Mod 70
>
>
> >>> Your fears are shared in my hanger as well. In that I am in the USA,
> I will take my new stronger mass balance arm to my trusty welder and
> have a cable attachment flange put on it. As you so wisely concluded,
> the cable installation was not designed well. The idea is fine, but if a
> builder can not do it well, it is a bad design. I installed the
> turnbuckles and feel that fixed the design problem.
>
> Your comments are reflected by some in NZ also and I know of three
> builders who, myself included, will be welding a cable attachment
> flange to it and using the existing turnbuckle tensioned stay wires on
> it. My father, who is a mechanical engineer, told me many years ago that
> if you want something to stay put make it out of triangles and that's
> what I intend retaining on my mass balance arm.
>
> Regards
>
> Tony
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Mod 70 -- "thin, agile and willing" |
| From: | "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz> |
Received-SPF: none
he is very willing to crawl down the tail end of our Europas to fit Mod
70.
"Who is he?" I hear you ask; well he is our one and only NEV.
Never was the Ferret Works more appropriately named !
:)
Tony
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | xs cooling gills |
| From: | "paul atkinson" <paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk> |
Mike
Try the rearward face. It confused me, hence a bit of filling required to
repair a cut in the rong place.
Regards
Paul
BTW if you haven't got there yet, you may find it easier to assemble the
exhaust system before fitting any of it to the engine. That way you can
use the down pipes as levers to stretch the springs. I wasted a lot of
time seeing how far the springs would go each time they slipped from my
grasp. The record so far is.....
Also check that all four pipe sockets have anti-seize compond in them
before you assemble them. 2 of mine had been missed.
From: "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: xs cooling gills
Do I open up the rearward or front facing sections of the cooling gills on
the
top cowling?
Manual says open up the 'flat' surface.
It does not take much to confuse me and both surfaces are curved!
Thanks
Mike Gamble
XS 440
Just received the FWF kit.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "karelvranken" <karelvranken(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Mikes Fears, Mod 70 |
Where are the opinions of Graham Singelton and Nigel Charles?
Karel Vranken #447 F-PKRL
----- Original Message -----
From: "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mikes Fears, Mod 70
>
> Tony and all
>
> I can't underestand what all the fuss is about in Retaining the cables.
>
> We put them there because that was what was approved. What they have to do
> most of the time is little -
>
> When the fuse is standing vertical the weights may touch lightly on one
side
> or the other and friction zilch.
>
> In a balanced turn it is the same.
>
> It seems to me that the only time the weight may push firmly against the
> limit structure is if one wing is being retarded enough to begin turning
the
> aircraft, say in entering a ground loop or it a wing hits something solid
> when it could possibly break the structure. In this case you will be out
of
> action for some time anyway working on wing repairs. But you would have
had
> no time to experience any increased friction in the pitch control
mechanism.
>
> J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Oz - and yes I did spend some time
studying
> structures.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tony Krzyzewski" <tonyk(at)kaon.co.nz>
> To:
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mikes Fears, Mod 70
>
>
> >
> >
> > >>> Your fears are shared in my hanger as well. In that I am in the USA,
> > I will take my new stronger mass balance arm to my trusty welder and
> > have a cable attachment flange put on it. As you so wisely concluded,
> > the cable installation was not designed well. The idea is fine, but if a
> > builder can not do it well, it is a bad design. I installed the
> > turnbuckles and feel that fixed the design problem.
> >
> > Your comments are reflected by some in NZ also and I know of three
> > builders who, myself included, will be welding a cable attachment
> > flange to it and using the existing turnbuckle tensioned stay wires on
> > it. My father, who is a mechanical engineer, told me many years ago that
> > if you want something to stay put make it out of triangles and that's
> > what I intend retaining on my mass balance arm.
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Tony
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Access and Mod 70 ...no joke ! |
Hi! William and all.
I appreciate that Neville is a splendid blonde ferret and very willing
and quick with it too and probably cheap but he still has to charge
...the last time I was down the Europa empennage with my arms over my
head for too long a period with no one around I took severe chest muscle
cramps and really had a big scare getting out. THAT WAS NO JOKE .
With the cable stay fix there's no need to visit this problem so I can't
for the life of me see the necessity of doing away with the cables and
turnbuckles. Builder input to these problems should have more respect.
(No doubt all will have a laugh at my expense but I have a thick skin
anyway.)
I feel that builders should only venture in there with some assistance
stood by anyway. Ignore this at your peril.
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke ! |
Bobert,
Tie one ankle to the joystick and arrange yourself so you can
bend a knee. Sooner rather than later you should be able to grab the rope
and pull yourself to daylight.
Ferg
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke !
|
| Hi! William and all.
| I appreciate that Neville is a splendid blonde ferret and very willing
| and quick with it too and probably cheap but he still has to charge
| ...the last time I was down the Europa empennage with my arms over my
| head for too long a period with no one around I took severe chest muscle
| cramps and really had a big scare getting out. THAT WAS NO JOKE .
| With the cable stay fix there's no need to visit this problem so I can't
| for the life of me see the necessity of doing away with the cables and
| turnbuckles. Builder input to these problems should have more respect.
| (No doubt all will have a laugh at my expense but I have a thick skin
| anyway.)
| I feel that builders should only venture in there with some assistance
| stood by anyway. Ignore this at your peril.
|
| Regards
| Bob Harrison G-PTAG
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Access and Mod 70 ...no joke ! |
Alternatively:
1. Draw line around outside of fuselage just forward of the mass-balance
stops.
2. Draw 4 lines perpendicular to the line in 1 (i.e. longitudinally along
the aircraft), one on top, one below and one either side
3. Cut aircraft in half around the line drawn in 1
4. Fit Mod 70 at your ease
5. Bond fuselage halves back together using the lines drawn in 2 as guides
to re-align the two halves
6. Go flying again
I dont understand what all the fuss about going down the back is about -
this procedure should obviate it very nicely :-)
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1390 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fergus Kyle
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke !
Bobert,
Tie one ankle to the joystick and arrange yourself so you can
bend a knee. Sooner rather than later you should be able to grab the rope
and pull yourself to daylight.
Ferg
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke !
|
| Hi! William and all.
| I appreciate that Neville is a splendid blonde ferret and very willing
| and quick with it too and probably cheap but he still has to charge
| ...the last time I was down the Europa empennage with my arms over my
| head for too long a period with no one around I took severe chest muscle
| cramps and really had a big scare getting out. THAT WAS NO JOKE .
| With the cable stay fix there's no need to visit this problem so I can't
| for the life of me see the necessity of doing away with the cables and
| turnbuckles. Builder input to these problems should have more respect.
| (No doubt all will have a laugh at my expense but I have a thick skin
| anyway.)
| I feel that builders should only venture in there with some assistance
| stood by anyway. Ignore this at your peril.
|
| Regards
| Bob Harrison G-PTAG
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Swaging those cables |
| From: | "Dan Bish" <DanBish(at)norwalktucson.com> |
Jeremy,
Give the cable end a brief buffing on your grinder wheel at an angle.
That'll clean it up so it'll slip right through the hardware.
Dan
A144, Tucson AZ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
I'm in the market again for a reasonably priced trailer for my XS mono. Anything
available in my area (Camberley, Surrey) ? Details and price direct please.
Mike Gamble
XS mono
Just about ready to take it out of the cradle
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: xs cooling gills |
Paul, Bob and Cliff
comments noted with thanks
Mike
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke ! |
Bob,
I, for one, will not be getting rid of the cables, due to having turnbuckles
fitted already. I will get a local engineer to weld some ears on the new
TP18 for the cable ends to attach and fit them as required. May also fit the
tufnol strip as well, not sure. Got my 9 year old son Angus practicing the
manoeuvre already as I await the MOD in the mail. I had a look at the TP18
yesterday to check for any stress and looked quiet normal. Checked also the
cables and they were both tight and certainly keeps the arm from any lateral
movement.
Hope this is all worth it?
Cheers,
Tim
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8005
New Zealand.
Ph +64 3 3515166
Mobile 021 0640221
ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
----- Original Message -----
From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke !
>
> Hi! William and all.
> I appreciate that Neville is a splendid blonde ferret and very willing
> and quick with it too and probably cheap but he still has to charge
> ...the last time I was down the Europa empennage with my arms over my
> head for too long a period with no one around I took severe chest muscle
> cramps and really had a big scare getting out. THAT WAS NO JOKE .
> With the cable stay fix there's no need to visit this problem so I can't
> for the life of me see the necessity of doing away with the cables and
> turnbuckles. Builder input to these problems should have more respect.
> (No doubt all will have a laugh at my expense but I have a thick skin
> anyway.)
> I feel that builders should only venture in there with some assistance
> stood by anyway. Ignore this at your peril.
>
> Regards
> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke ! |
How many USA tri-gear builders are considering this mod. Sounds to me
like a tri on pavement would not need it. Other opinions out there?
Jeff
A258
On May 4, 2005, at 4:35 PM, Tim Ward wrote:
>
> Bob,
> I, for one, will not be getting rid of the cables, due to having
> turnbuckles
> fitted already. I will get a local engineer to weld some ears on the
> new
> TP18 for the cable ends to attach and fit them as required. May also
> fit the
> tufnol strip as well, not sure. Got my 9 year old son Angus
> practicing the
> manoeuvre already as I await the MOD in the mail. I had a look at the
> TP18
> yesterday to check for any stress and looked quiet normal. Checked
> also the
> cables and they were both tight and certainly keeps the arm from any
> lateral
> movement.
> Hope this is all worth it?
> Cheers,
> Tim
> Tim Ward
> 12 Waiwetu Street,
> Fendalton,
> Christchurch, 8005
> New Zealand.
> Ph +64 3 3515166
> Mobile 021 0640221
> ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke !
>
>
>>
>>
>> Hi! William and all.
>> I appreciate that Neville is a splendid blonde ferret and very willing
>> and quick with it too and probably cheap but he still has to charge
>> ...the last time I was down the Europa empennage with my arms over my
>> head for too long a period with no one around I took severe chest
>> muscle
>> cramps and really had a big scare getting out. THAT WAS NO JOKE .
>> With the cable stay fix there's no need to visit this problem so I
>> can't
>> for the life of me see the necessity of doing away with the cables and
>> turnbuckles. Builder input to these problems should have more respect.
>> (No doubt all will have a laugh at my expense but I have a thick skin
>> anyway.)
>> I feel that builders should only venture in there with some assistance
>> stood by anyway. Ignore this at your peril.
>>
>> Regards
>> Bob Harrison G-PTAG
>>
>>
>>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Swaging those cables |
Cheers,
All thgose grinding wheels and cutoff appliances seem like a lot
of trouble. I used masking tape around the wire, centred about the expected
cut. Then, thanks to advice from an old hand in the trade, gave it a quick
whack with a small hammer and a 2-inch chisel against pig-iron. It then slid
conveniently into the hardware and peeled the tape since it would be covered
by transparent heatshrink ( to honour the inspector) and then a second
coloured heatshrink for coding and finish. Not an electric tool in sight.
Happy landings,
Ferg
PS: ....all in Crixbinfield as Bob Harrison directs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Bish" <DanBish(at)norwalktucson.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Swaging those cables
|
| Jeremy,
|
|
| Give the cable end a brief buffing on your grinder wheel at an angle.
| That'll clean it up so it'll slip right through the hardware.
|
|
| Dan
|
| A144, Tucson AZ
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Boulet <possibletodo(at)yahoo.com> |
| Subject: | rear cylinders HOT on my 914 |
Hi All;
I've put ten hours on my Europa to date and seem to be
getting pretty high EGT readings on the rear 2
cylinders- generally running 200-240 degrees hotter
than the front two. I searched the archives to see if
this issue had been addressed before and can't seem to
find any info hence hoping others might give me some
insight.
Steve Hagar was kind enough to give me this info:
"For hot rear cylinders part of the fix is to
partially block off the gill vents on the rear side
of the upper cowling. The idea is to not have the air
rushing out those holes but down over the cylinders in
the rear and
out the bottom. Along with that is to make a cover to
go over the top of the motor mount weldment at the
rear of the engine. You want the air forced down over
the cylinders. You don't want it to go to the back of
the
engine compartment and go rushing out the bottom
through that motor mount opening. Dave Deford and
Terry Seaver up outside of Livermore have been through
this."
Any other thoughts/opinions appreciated. By the way,
the day was a balmy 75 degrees F when I was test
flying. Thanks!
Paul Boulet, N914PB, Malibu, California
"Have flown ten of the required 40 hours off in my
designated flight area"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | rear cylinders HOT on my 914 |
Paul,
You said :-
> I've put ten hours on my Europa to date and seem to be
getting pretty high EGT readings on the rear 2
cylinders- generally running 200-240 degrees hotter
than the front two.
"For hot rear cylinders part of the fix is to
partially block off the gill vents on the rear side
of the upper cowling. The idea is to not have the air
rushing out those holes but down over the cylinders in
the rear and . . . . . ."
You have stated that your Exhaust Gas Temps are around 200-240 degrees
hotter on the rear two cylinders. I assume the second paragraph "for
hot rear cylinders . . . " is referring to high CHT's.
To the best of my knowledge, alteration of the ducting will affect
Cylinder Head Temps and will have little or no affect on true EGT's. A
difference in EGT's should mainly be due to differing mixture strengths
in the cylinders.
Having said this however, assuming all EGT's might in fact be the same,
maybe, the front exhaust pipes are cooled more by the air flow than the
rear ones , the EGT's reported are varied because of this leading you to
believe the actual EGT's are different.
As the boss of one of my sons used to say, do you get what I am getting
at ? ?
No doubt, others will correct me if I am wrong.
Regards
Kingsley in Oz.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke ! |
> (No doubt all will have a laugh at my expense but I have a thick skin
> anyway.)
On the contrary Bob. There are not many people with a smaller stature than
I and I know from experience that working inside that area with the elevator
drive tube is not comfortable.
The situation as I see it is thus:- Some (many I think) builders have
fitted turnbuckles to make working with the cables easier and some haven't.
For those who haven't, the mod as supplied may be the best way to go while
for the rest of us (me included), to retain the cables will simply make life
a lot easier.
There would be no skin off Andy's nose if the cable lugs were supplied on
all the kits and they would present no disadvantage to those who don't use
them. I have written to Andy requesting him to incorporate the lugs but if
only a couple of us do this, there is little likelihood of it being done. I
therefore suggest that EVERY builder/flyer who wants to retain their
turnbuckle set-up, write to Andy making the same request in order that he
can clearly gauge the interest in doing so.
In any case, I will be fitting them regardless but since the nearest
aircraft welder is 500km from me, this is an expense and inconvenience I
would rather avoid.
Cheers
Kingsley
PS Did I hear correctly that you have some Aussies over there teaching your
blokes how to play Cricket ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK |
I guess all the UK folks are aware the existing arrangements for local ACS
orders have ended? I now see that LAS are taking them on and doing
twice-weekly consolidated shipping of ACS parts before onward distribution.
Does this fill everyone else with the same feeling of doom that it gives me?
I=92ve found LAS to be utterly incapable of getting even simple orders right,
outrageously expensive (typically 200%+ of the ACS cost for parts), liable
to substitute parts without warning with their choice of equivalent, and
prone to sending everything by courier without even checking if that=92s what
you want.
For example, one recent backorder of bits just got sent to me and they
charged me extra postage for sending it! GBP13 of parts, plus GBP25.90 to
send it by courier, when good old Royal Mail would have done it just as well
for about GBP3. After waiting for the parts for a month, an extra 2 days
wouldn=92t have been the end of the world. Needless to say I=92m fighting it!
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
=93If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.=94
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1390 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke ! |
| From: | "Jos Okhuijsen" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
Yes, other opinion! Don't like the mod 70 bashing at all. Seems to me a
gross misappreciation of the technical intellect (Andy) at the factory. My
line of thought is like this: The cables, especially preloaded with
turnbuckels put an extra load on the arm and it's connections in a static
situation. If there are forces sideways (bumpy air) these forces will
increase with a 10 x factor (arm lenghts). Same sitiation in the
tri-gear.I have the cables (one turnbuckle) in place, but the top is not
fitted yet, so i have an easy one on this i must admit. Making a mod on a
mod by adding again cables ect seems a bit arrogant.
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: rear cylinders HOT on my 914 |
| From: | Dave_Miller(at)avivacanada.com |
05/05/2005 08:34:01 AM,
Serialize complete at 05/05/2005 08:34:01 AM
Paul,
I was chatting with a 914 mono builder (Chris Staines) on the weekend, his
feeling was that the rear temps were higher mainly because of the
proximity of the sender to the exhaust pipe.
Chris incidentally re-worked his lower cowling over the winter, to move
the air intake "chin" back about a foot, just in front of the Radiator.
Also cut down on the intake area and cleaned up the air outflow. He also
added 4 extra louvres on top.
To date temps are lower ( although its still cold up here ). Also appears
to have picked up a knot or two in cruise, but this is hard to verify.
The aircraft profile is prettier now.
Dave A061
Paul Boulet
Sent by: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
05/04/2005 11:19 PM
Please respond to europa-list
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Europa-List: rear cylinders HOT on my 914
Hi All;
I've put ten hours on my Europa to date and seem to be
getting pretty high EGT readings on the rear 2
cylinders- generally running 200-240 degrees hotter
than the front two.
Paul Boulet, N914PB, Malibu, California
"Have flown ten of the required 40 hours off in my
designated flight area"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | TELEDYNMCS(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Anybody got a picture of the kit? |
Greetings all,
I've been arranging my build pictures and I was wondering if anybody had a
copy of the picture of the kit all layed out that used to appear on John Hurst's
website. I'd like to include it in my gallery to kind of give some
perspective as to where I started. If anybody can point to a link to this picture
or
send it to me it'd be appreciated.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245 (Glass is in, sliding towards finish and paint inbetween towing gliders
and planting corn)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | R Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK |
Jeremy Davey wrote:
> I guess all the UK folks are aware the existing arrangements for local ACS
> orders have ended? I now see that LAS are taking them on and doing
> twice-weekly consolidated shipping of ACS parts before onward distribution.
>
> Does this fill everyone else with the same feeling of doom that it gives me?
> I=92ve found LAS to be utterly incapable of getting even simple orders right,
> outrageously expensive (typically 200%+ of the ACS cost for parts), liable
> to substitute parts without warning with their choice of equivalent, and
> prone to sending everything by courier without even checking if that=92s what
> you want.
>
> For example, one recent backorder of bits just got sent to me and they
> charged me extra postage for sending it! GBP13 of parts, plus GBP25.90 to
> send it by courier, when good old Royal Mail would have done it just as well
> for about GBP3. After waiting for the parts for a month, an extra 2 days
> wouldn=92t have been the end of the world. Needless to say I=92m fighting it!
>
> Cheers,
> Jeremy
I am puzzled - I dunno who LAS are.
In the past I asked ACS (Europe) to order my stuff and it
came direct from the US to me, normally with VAT and
handling added. (ACS (E) told me originally that "10% of
orders get caught for VAT". Actually it was 6 out of 7 !).
Then I started ordering my stuff on-line for delivery to
me here. Same result as above except that the order was
placed immediately rather than two days later by ACS (E).
Now I have a US contact who comes here twice a year, and I
go there twice a year. So I now order on-line for delivery
in Delaware. No tax, UPS Ground delivery charges, and that
is it ! 140 worth can be brought in each time with no
customs implications at all. I'll take the 5th as to
whether I have ever exceeded the 140 ! And I can track
the delivery every step (van/plane) on the way using the
UPS tracking system on the web.
Why on earth did you use a third party - LAS ?
Richard
G-OWWW - High Cross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | R Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Team
Can anyone tell me for certain which way the water flows ?
Does it flow from the central top dashpot (with the
pressurised "radiator cap") down through the heads and
into the block, ie is the water flow downwareds through
the heads, or is it the other way around with the water
flowing upwards through the heads ?
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Richard
The way I figured it out, the water is on its way back when it goes to the
little pot with the radiator cap. That is the way I plumed up my "skydrive"
carb heaters .
Good luck building.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: "R Holder" <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: Water flow
>
> Team
>
> Can anyone tell me for certain which way the water flows ?
>
> Does it flow from the central top dashpot (with the
> pressurised "radiator cap") down through the heads and
> into the block, ie is the water flow downwareds through
> the heads, or is it the other way around with the water
> flowing upwards through the heads ?
>
> Richard
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
The "Operator's Manual for all versions of Rotax 914" page 9-1 of version
Dec 01/98 has a diagram (Fig. 4) at the bottom of the page showing that the
coolant flows from the water pump UP to the cylinder heads, up to the
expansion tank, down to the radiator and back to the pump.
Best regards,
Rob Housman
Europa XS Tri-Gear A070
Airframe complete
Irvine, CA
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of R Holder
Subject: Europa-List: Water flow
Team
Can anyone tell me for certain which way the water flows ?
Does it flow from the central top dashpot (with the
pressurised "radiator cap") down through the heads and
into the block, ie is the water flow downwareds through
the heads, or is it the other way around with the water
flowing upwards through the heads ?
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | rear cylinders HOT on my 914 |
| From: | "Terry Seaver (terrys)" <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
Hi Paul,
We often see a 200 degF difference in EGT's, sometimes more than 250
degF when the throttle is closed in flight. We attribute this to the
proximity of the front exhaust headers to the two inlets in the cowl.
Our engine instrument was set to alarm if min/max EGT difference was
greater than 250 degF, and we were getting alarms regularly on
reduced-power descents.
Our cooling mods don't have much effect on the EGT spread,
front-to-rear, but were done to reduce the rather high temps (400-450
degF) in the lower cowl area, which was causing damage to various
components. The mods also ended up reducing oil temps by about 20 degF
in the climb.
Regards.
Terry Seaver
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Boulet
Subject: Europa-List: rear cylinders HOT on my 914
Hi All;
I've put ten hours on my Europa to date and seem to be getting pretty
high EGT readings on the rear 2
cylinders- generally running 200-240 degrees hotter than the front two.
I searched the archives to see if this issue had been addressed before
and can't seem to find any info hence hoping others might give me some
insight.
Steve Hagar was kind enough to give me this info:
"For hot rear cylinders part of the fix is to partially block off the
gill vents on the rear side of the upper cowling. The idea is to not
have the air rushing out those holes but down over the cylinders in the
rear and out the bottom. Along with that is to make a cover to go over
the top of the motor mount weldment at the rear of the engine. You want
the air forced down over the cylinders. You don't want it to go to the
back of the engine compartment and go rushing out the bottom through
that motor mount opening. Dave Deford and Terry Seaver up outside of
Livermore have been through this."
Any other thoughts/opinions appreciated. By the way, the day was a
balmy 75 degrees F when I was test flying. Thanks!
Paul Boulet, N914PB, Malibu, California
"Have flown ten of the required 40 hours off in my designated flight
area"
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
This year's Europa Club Tour de France will take place from 18 to 25 June
The route is currently looking like Troyes-Barbery, LFQ; Carcassone,LFMK;
Pau-Pyrrenees,LFBP; Bordeaux Yvrac,LFDY; Saumur,LFOD; Quimper,LFRQ, with a
possible excursion to Belle-Ile,LFEA at the end if the weather has been kind
to us and we haven't got delayed or diverted up to that point.
Could those who previously expressed an interest please confirm now
by email that they are committed, and if anyone else is interested there is
still one spare place. In case anyone did not see the previous notice the
idea of the trip is that it should be fairly gentle with no more than about
three hours flying per day, and that it should concentrate on stops where
there is plenty of interest., plus good food and wine. That is to say that
it is the sort of trip that wives should thoroughly enjoy, even if they
don't necessarily have quite the same degree of passion for flying that you
do! It is also ideal for someone new to foreign travel as France is a benign
place for starting to enjoy European flying and there will be plenty of
experienced folk happy to give any support needed.
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ, (waiting mod 70!)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Access and Mod 70 ...no joke ! |
My understanding, Kingsley, is that they're here learning how to be
gentlemen and sportsmen. The plan is for them to teach your PM what they
learn ready for when you next host the Rugby World Cup Final :-)
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1390 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kingsley Hurst
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke !
> (No doubt all will have a laugh at my expense but I have a thick skin
> anyway.)
On the contrary Bob. There are not many people with a smaller stature than
I and I know from experience that working inside that area with the elevator
drive tube is not comfortable.
The situation as I see it is thus:- Some (many I think) builders have
fitted turnbuckles to make working with the cables easier and some haven't.
For those who haven't, the mod as supplied may be the best way to go while
for the rest of us (me included), to retain the cables will simply make life
a lot easier.
There would be no skin off Andy's nose if the cable lugs were supplied on
all the kits and they would present no disadvantage to those who don't use
them. I have written to Andy requesting him to incorporate the lugs but if
only a couple of us do this, there is little likelihood of it being done. I
therefore suggest that EVERY builder/flyer who wants to retain their
turnbuckle set-up, write to Andy making the same request in order that he
can clearly gauge the interest in doing so.
In any case, I will be fitting them regardless but since the nearest
aircraft welder is 500km from me, this is an expense and inconvenience I
would rather avoid.
Cheers
Kingsley
PS Did I hear correctly that you have some Aussies over there teaching your
blokes how to play Cricket ?
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK |
Richard,
LAS are Light Aero Spares. I usually do as you do - go direct via the ACS
Web Site and take delivery when in the US on business (about 6 times a
year).
Unfortunately every so often I need a small part or two reasonably quickly,
so LAS are the only option I know. They're utterly incompetent, in my
experience - so them taking over the ACS(E) arrangements is something of a
concern!
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1390 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of R Holder
Subject: Re: Europa-List: LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK
Jeremy Davey wrote:
> I guess all the UK folks are aware the existing arrangements for local ACS
> orders have ended? I now see that LAS are taking them on and doing
> twice-weekly consolidated shipping of ACS parts before onward
distribution.
>
> Does this fill everyone else with the same feeling of doom that it gives
me?
> I=92ve found LAS to be utterly incapable of getting even simple orders
right,
> outrageously expensive (typically 200%+ of the ACS cost for parts), liable
> to substitute parts without warning with their choice of equivalent, and
> prone to sending everything by courier without even checking if that=92s
what
> you want.
>
> For example, one recent backorder of bits just got sent to me and they
> charged me extra postage for sending it! GBP13 of parts, plus GBP25.90 to
> send it by courier, when good old Royal Mail would have done it just as
well
> for about GBP3. After waiting for the parts for a month, an extra 2 days
> wouldn=92t have been the end of the world. Needless to say I=92m fighting
it!
>
> Cheers,
> Jeremy
I am puzzled - I dunno who LAS are.
In the past I asked ACS (Europe) to order my stuff and it
came direct from the US to me, normally with VAT and
handling added. (ACS (E) told me originally that "10% of
orders get caught for VAT". Actually it was 6 out of 7 !).
Then I started ordering my stuff on-line for delivery to
me here. Same result as above except that the order was
placed immediately rather than two days later by ACS (E).
Now I have a US contact who comes here twice a year, and I
go there twice a year. So I now order on-line for delivery
in Delaware. No tax, UPS Ground delivery charges, and that
is it ! 140 worth can be brought in each time with no
customs implications at all. I'll take the 5th as to
whether I have ever exceeded the 140 ! And I can track
the delivery every step (van/plane) on the way using the
UPS tracking system on the web.
Why on earth did you use a third party - LAS ?
Richard
G-OWWW - High Cross
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevpond(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: Access and Mod 70 ...no joke ! |
In a message dated 05/05/2005 11:19:30 GMT Daylight Time,
hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au writes:
PS Did I hear correctly that you have some Aussies over there teaching your
blokes how to play Cricket ?
Ever hear of the Rugby World Cup?
Trev Pond
Kit 598
Nearly there
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rlborger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Fwd: The mother of all model airplanes |
I realize this is off subject and I may get flogged mercilessly but you
gotta watch the video! It's 10 minutes long and requires a high-speed
connection to work right. If you don't have one, find someone who has
one and beg them to let you watch.
'specially all you Brits. Watch the video and you'll understand.
If anyone wants to see the pic before you go to the trouble of watching
the video, I've posted it and the URL on my build site.
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(80%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 28
Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door Latches & 35
Doors, 37 Finishing. Preparing ROTAX 914 for installation.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
Begin forwarded message:
> Watch the video
> ---------
> Actually has 8 "real turbines" at about $1500 each!
>
> I read about it in one of the model mags I get. Took over 2 years
> to build.
>
> Takes multiple pilots, as there are so many things to control.
>
> Think they are nervous during the maiden flight?
>
> Subject: B-52 UAV
>
> Unbelievable that someone would make this - all real turbines!
> Check out
> the movie link below to see the first flight. Could be a UAV
> contender?
>
> http://www.mcgirt.net/RC/VIDEOS/Giant_B52/B52_flight2.wmv
>
>
> -----
>
> ----- End forwarded message -----
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | R Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK |
> LAS are Light Aero Spares. I usually do as you do - go direct via the ACS
> Web Site and take delivery when in the US on business (about 6 times a
> year).
>
> Unfortunately every so often I need a small part or two reasonably quickly,
> so LAS are the only option I know. They're utterly incompetent, in my
> experience - so them taking over the ACS(E) arrangements is something of a
> concern!
I didn't know ACS (E) had any such arrangements. In the
past I havee ordered through ACS (E) and the stuff has
been delivered direct. Has this changed ? As I, the
customer, am paying the individual shipping charges from
ACS to me I don't see the advantage to ACS of delivering
via LAS, especially if there are large mark-ups by the
middle man.
Are you saying that if you order from ACS via the web-site
and put your address in as the UK the delivery is shipped
to LAS who then on-ship it to you ? Thus incurring two
lots of delivery charges, and of course the certainty of
being charged VAT ?
If you do this - does the web-site tell you that there is
a middle man in the process ?
All ACS deliveries come with a "Tell us how well we
processed this order" postcard. Perhaps a few of these
returned to ACS with negative comments about the
involvement of LAS would change their minds.
Actually my experience of LAS for stuff in their catalogue
is quite reasonable. I ordered a water/fuel separator
funnel once which came with ACS stickers but at a price
less than the ACS catalogue price - (old stock ??)
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | R Holder <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk> |
Cliff Shaw wrote:
> The way I figured it out, the water is on its way back
> when it goes to the little pot with the radiator cap.
> That is the way I plumed up my "skydrive" carb heaters
> .
Rob Housman wrote
> The "Operator's Manual for all versions of Rotax 914"
> page 9-1 of version Dec 01/98 has a diagram (Fig. 4) at
> the bottom of the page showing that the coolant flows
> from the water pump UP to the cylinder heads, up to the
> expansion tank, down to the radiator and back to the
> pump.
Thanks guys - you have confirmed what I thought. Which
begs the question about the installation instructions for
the carb heaters.
As instructed the water starts from the water pump, goes
through the starboard side carb, then through the port
side carb and then to the header tank.
HOWEVER. I see the starboard side as being the hotter side
as the airflow is restricted by pipes and also by the oil
dry sump tank, which itself is very hot. So the starboard
side has a heat advantage already over the port side. So
why doesn't the hotter water from the water pump get
directed to the port side first and THEN to the starboard
side ?
I mention this as, even with the carb heat kit fitted, I
am still getting the minor slight hiccups which I was
getting before the kit was fitted and which I have decided
(maybe wrongly) is carb icing. Today the outside temp was
about 12 degrees C and I got the hiccups. I shall do some
careful tests, recording ambient temps, carb body temp,
and oil and CH temps in the cruise after settling down to
see if there is any consistency about it.
The hiccups are quite minor but I hate to hear anything
which is not a continuous note from the engine.
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | High Oil temperature |
Yet again on the scrounge for some advice:
When we run HI at 5000rpm, the oil temperature frequently gets above 130
(though we always throttle back before it gets any higher) - we often have
to pull it back to 4500 to keep the temp down - this only returns about
100kts.
The oil tank has been fitted such that the return pipe passes straight over
the exhaust - could this be increasing the oil temp significantly?
The prop (warpdrive) is quite coarse - could this be putting a heavy load on
the 80hp 912?
I have tried blocking the bottom of the cowl out by about 5mm - this seems
to have dropped a few C but still not enough.
Should I try blocking the bottom of the cowl out further? Should I block the
small gap above the rad on the stbd side to force the air through the rad?
Any other suggestions would be more than welcome as I should imagine its
cooking the oil quite nicely (we are changing it every 25hrs). Anyone know
where I can get some longer csk screws for the bottom of the cowl?
Peter
G-MFHI
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Daniell" <wdaniell(at)etb.net.co> |
| Subject: | Swaging those cables |
I cut mine with a bolt cutter no tape - nuffink - worked fine
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fergus Kyle
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Swaging those cables
Cheers,
All thgose grinding wheels and cutoff appliances seem like a lot
of trouble. I used masking tape around the wire, centred about the expected
cut. Then, thanks to advice from an old hand in the trade, gave it a quick
whack with a small hammer and a 2-inch chisel against pig-iron. It then slid
conveniently into the hardware and peeled the tape since it would be covered
by transparent heatshrink ( to honour the inspector) and then a second
coloured heatshrink for coding and finish. Not an electric tool in sight.
Happy landings,
Ferg
PS: ....all in Crixbinfield as Bob Harrison directs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Bish" <DanBish(at)norwalktucson.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Swaging those cables
|
| Jeremy,
|
|
| Give the cable end a brief buffing on your grinder wheel at an angle.
| That'll clean it up so it'll slip right through the hardware.
|
|
| Dan
|
| A144, Tucson AZ
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | nigelcharles(at)tiscali.co.uk |
| Subject: | Replacing Rotax starter |
mk-nntest-1.uk.intranet
autolearn=no version=3.0.2
I am in the process of installing the XS firewall forward spec to my Classic.
I can see no reason why the starter cannot be removed with the engine in
situ. This is another reason to upgrade from the Classic spec as to remove
the starter on a Classic means removing the engine mount frame as well as
removing the engine - not easy if the starter lets you down away from main
base.
Nigel Charles
>>Inquiring minds would like to know:
>>Can the Rotax 912S starter on an XS mono-wheel be replaced with the
>>Heavy Duty one without removing the engine?
>>
>>regards,
>>Terry Seaver
>>A135 / N135TD
Book yourself something to look forward to in 2005.
Cheap flights - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/travel/flights/
Bargain holidays - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/travel/holidays/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK |
Nooooooo! ACS(E) are no more, dead, deceased, pushing up the daisies...
LCS have struck a deal with ACS where you CAN (not MUST!) buy ACS parts from
them, ACS ship to LCS twice a week, LCS then forward your bits to you...
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1390 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of R Holder
Subject: Re: Europa-List: LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK
> LAS are Light Aero Spares. I usually do as you do - go direct via the ACS
> Web Site and take delivery when in the US on business (about 6 times a
> year).
>
> Unfortunately every so often I need a small part or two reasonably
quickly,
> so LAS are the only option I know. They're utterly incompetent, in my
> experience - so them taking over the ACS(E) arrangements is something of a
> concern!
I didn't know ACS (E) had any such arrangements. In the
past I havee ordered through ACS (E) and the stuff has
been delivered direct. Has this changed ? As I, the
customer, am paying the individual shipping charges from
ACS to me I don't see the advantage to ACS of delivering
via LAS, especially if there are large mark-ups by the
middle man.
Are you saying that if you order from ACS via the web-site
and put your address in as the UK the delivery is shipped
to LAS who then on-ship it to you ? Thus incurring two
lots of delivery charges, and of course the certainty of
being charged VAT ?
If you do this - does the web-site tell you that there is
a middle man in the process ?
All ACS deliveries come with a "Tell us how well we
processed this order" postcard. Perhaps a few of these
returned to ACS with negative comments about the
involvement of LAS would change their minds.
Actually my experience of LAS for stuff in their catalogue
is quite reasonable. I ordered a water/fuel separator
funnel once which came with ACS stickers but at a price
less than the ACS catalogue price - (old stock ??)
Richard
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ctsmallwood" <ctsmallwood(at)onetel.com> |
| Subject: | Grand rapids EIS 4000 |
Hi All
Any one fitted the above IN LINE with the Rotax TACHO 12V
supplied gauge? Would welcome views on Hook up.Grand
Rapids suggest OK, using same link as Flydat.
Regards
Colin Smallwood
Kit 232 ,engine run OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "John Cliff" <mx(at)crixbinfield.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK |
> I guess all the UK folks are aware the existing arrangements for local ACS
> orders have ended? I now see that LAS are taking them on and doing
> twice-weekly consolidated shipping of ACS parts before onward
> distribution.
>
> Does this fill everyone else with the same feeling of doom that it gives
> me?
Well, my experience with Light Aero Spares has been fairly positive. I
order only by phone and you get to hear if something isn't in stock. The
prices are in the catalogue, so if you don't like them ...... Delivery
has always been prompt and by post.
Actually I welcome the return to consolidated shipping via LAS, as used to
be the practice some years ago. The problem with smallish orders to ACS is
the high fixed cost of the carriage (even though they will send light and
small items by post which takes a while but is a bit cheaper and often
arrive with no duty or VAT levied - even if it is the Royal Mail admin
charge is much lower than that of people like UPS). It *might* provide a
way to get things at lower end-to-end cost for those of us who don't visit
the US regularly - we will have to look at the actual charges. Otherwise,
continue to use the website.
John Cliff
#0259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | Airmaster AC200 manual switch? |
Into the panel at the moment, trying to figure out what is needed to make on
order Airmaster AC200 Manual switch inputs happy.
I got an answer from Martin that they use a DPDT rated at 5 amps. Waiting for
answer on my more pointed question.
Since I want to use a SPDT Mom-Off-Mom rated 1 amp on Ray Allen Grip, I will
need to plumb in 2 relays.
My question:
Does in fact the manual switch direct control the pitch motor, where you would
want to short the 2 leads going to the motor when in the off position to
incorporate braking? In other words just like what the pitch trim switch does
supplied by Europa (Ray Allen) where they actual use 2 SPDT switches where COMM
is output to motor and they tie ground to NC and tie positive to NO ? Push on 1
switch and you go 1 direction, push on the other, go in other direction, let go
of both, and short 2 motor leads and get braking.
Or does the manual switch just control electronics in the AC200, and a DPDT
output should be fine.
Thx.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | where to get 914 Semi Synthetic oil in US? |
Rotax SI-18 recommendation for 914UL that will use 100LL once in a while is a semi
synthetic SG motorcycle oil with gear additive.
What brand is available and from where in US?
I saw on CPS site they offer AV-9, but also read that it had shown some foaming
in
testing and was supposed to be reformulated.
Lockwood recommends mobile 1 MX4-T, and change it at 25 hours, but that is a pure
synthetic.
For most part I will probably use mogas, but on trips, 100LL.
thx.
Sincerely
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: The mother of all model airplanes |
| From: | "Jos Okhuijsen" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
No worry Bob,
It's about flying and a good one too!
Thanks for letting us see this,
Regards,
Jos Okhuijsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Grand rapids EIS 4000 |
Mine works fine on my 914. Just parallel the Tacho Pin 2 connection to the
EIS
Ian Rickard #505 G-IANI XS Trigear
Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear)
e-mail mods(at)europaclub.org.uk
or direct g-iani(at)ntlworld.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of ctsmallwood
Subject: Europa-List: Grand rapids EIS 4000
Hi All
Any one fitted the above IN LINE with the Rotax TACHO 12V
supplied gauge? Would welcome views on Hook up.Grand
Rapids suggest OK, using same link as Flydat.
Regards
Colin Smallwood
Kit 232 ,engine run OK
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Airmaster AC200 manual switch? |
Ron
I am flying with the Airmaster. I love it. It is automatic, I repeat
AUTOMATIC !!!!
I never find it to any advantage to switch off the automatic and go to
manual. The only time I have used the manual is when I am parked and need
to demonstrate the variable pitch to someone.
I do not think it would be or any advantage to have the "fine / coarse"
switch on the control stick.
Just my opinion. Remember "I am an armature"
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Airmaster AC200 manual switch? |
| From: | "Terry Seaver (terrys)" <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
Hi Cliff,
I must disagree, just a little.
1) The manual position is how you cycle the prop during the run-up, to
verify its operation just before launching into the wild blue yonder.
At 4000 rpm, you switch to 'manual' and then hold the fine/course switch
to 'course' until you get an rpm drop, then switch to 'auto' and verify
the rpms auto-magically come back up.
2) If the water temps start to get out of hand on the ground, it has
been found useful by some people to manually place the prop into course
pitch to get more air past the radiator.
Regards,
Terry Seaver
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cliff Shaw
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Airmaster AC200 manual switch?
Ron
I am flying with the Airmaster. I love it. It is automatic, I repeat
AUTOMATIC !!!!
I never find it to any advantage to switch off the automatic and go to
manual. The only time I have used the manual is when I am parked and
need to demonstrate the variable pitch to someone.
I do not think it would be or any advantage to have the "fine / coarse"
switch on the control stick.
Just my opinion. Remember "I am an armature"
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Airmaster AC200 manual switch? |
Cliff,
Also downwind in the circuits, I switch to HOLD and adjust the RPM to 4300,
as you otherwise pick up speed downwind at CRUISE 5000 and only have to take
it all off again to put the undercarriage down.
We are talking about the best of course ....Monowheel Classic ... I take
it!!
Cheers,
Tim
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street,
Fendalton,
Christchurch, 8005
New Zealand.
Ph +64 3 3515166
Mobile 021 0640221
ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Seaver (terrys)" <terrys(at)cisco.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Airmaster AC200 manual switch?
>
>
> Hi Cliff,
>
> I must disagree, just a little.
>
> 1) The manual position is how you cycle the prop during the run-up, to
> verify its operation just before launching into the wild blue yonder.
> At 4000 rpm, you switch to 'manual' and then hold the fine/course switch
> to 'course' until you get an rpm drop, then switch to 'auto' and verify
> the rpms auto-magically come back up.
>
> 2) If the water temps start to get out of hand on the ground, it has
> been found useful by some people to manually place the prop into course
> pitch to get more air past the radiator.
>
> Regards,
> Terry Seaver
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Cliff Shaw
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Airmaster AC200 manual switch?
>
>
> Ron
>
> I am flying with the Airmaster. I love it. It is automatic, I repeat
> AUTOMATIC !!!!
>
> I never find it to any advantage to switch off the automatic and go to
> manual. The only time I have used the manual is when I am parked and
> need to demonstrate the variable pitch to someone.
>
> I do not think it would be or any advantage to have the "fine / coarse"
> switch on the control stick.
>
> Just my opinion. Remember "I am an armature"
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
> http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | Re: Airmaster AC200 manual switch? |
Thx. Terry and Cliff
I had in mind:
To verify operation before take off
Go Course to keep things cool on ground
When making long, shallow fast descents, go course
When fooling with favorite hold settings (manual switch controls hold as well)
Since not sure best way to warm motor after in-flight start with a cold motor,
it
will be played with in both hold and manual mode
I read the manual, and seems if the AC200 quits, for any number of reasons, the
manual switch will get a workout
I forget just how useful the Manual switch is for Feather/Unfeather operations.
I am not sure if Course will make for an easier air start, which will require
manual
Cliff admits "Just my opinion. Remember "I am an armature"
I am far worst, just a ARMCHAIR READER!
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SPurpura(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: High Oil temperature |
YOU KNOW YOU NEED AT LEAST 190=B0 TO BURN OFF ANY MOISTURE IN THE OIL.
SAM N77EU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
| Subject: | where to get 914 Semi Synthetic oil in US? |
Valvoline Dura Blend 10w-40 is recommended. I found it at K-Mart!
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
Steve Hagar
hagargs(at)earthlink.net
> [Original Message]
> From: Ronald J. Parigoris <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> To:
> Date: 5/6/2005 4:46:11 AM
> Subject: Europa-List: where to get 914 Semi Synthetic oil in US?
>
>
> Rotax SI-18 recommendation for 914UL that will use 100LL once in a while
is a semi
> synthetic SG motorcycle oil with gear additive.
>
> What brand is available and from where in US?
>
> I saw on CPS site they offer AV-9, but also read that it had shown some
foaming in
> testing and was supposed to be reformulated.
>
> Lockwood recommends mobile 1 MX4-T, and change it at 25 hours, but that
is a pure
> synthetic.
>
> For most part I will probably use mogas, but on trips, 100LL.
>
> thx.
> Sincerely
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ctsmallwood" <ctsmallwood(at)onetel.com> |
Hi All
In the market for Headsets and a Rotax Tacho gauge
I will pay fair price and collect costs
Regards
Colin Smallwood
Kit 232
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
Hi Richard,
There should be a reduced pressure in the return pipe from the radiators to
the water pump, so that sucks water from the stb side carb heater the small
pipe should be connected very near to the pump to maximise the depression)
Coolant flows from the port carb heater which is fed from the exit from No 1
cylinder, which should be hot. The trick is to ensure all the air is
evacuated from the carb heaters and associated pipes and make sure the carb
heaters get as hot as the No 1 cylinder return pipe. Hope that helps.
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: "R Holder" <rholder(at)avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Water flow
>
> Cliff Shaw wrote:
>
> > The way I figured it out, the water is on its way back
> > when it goes to the little pot with the radiator cap.
> > That is the way I plumed up my "skydrive" carb heaters
> > .
>
> Rob Housman wrote
>
> > The "Operator's Manual for all versions of Rotax 914"
> > page 9-1 of version Dec 01/98 has a diagram (Fig. 4) at
> > the bottom of the page showing that the coolant flows
> > from the water pump UP to the cylinder heads, up to the
> > expansion tank, down to the radiator and back to the
> > pump.
>
>
> Thanks guys - you have confirmed what I thought. Which
> begs the question about the installation instructions for
> the carb heaters.
>
> As instructed the water starts from the water pump, goes
> through the starboard side carb, then through the port
> side carb and then to the header tank.
>
> HOWEVER. I see the starboard side as being the hotter side
> as the airflow is restricted by pipes and also by the oil
> dry sump tank, which itself is very hot. So the starboard
> side has a heat advantage already over the port side. So
> why doesn't the hotter water from the water pump get
> directed to the port side first and THEN to the starboard
> side ?
>
> I mention this as, even with the carb heat kit fitted, I
> am still getting the minor slight hiccups which I was
> getting before the kit was fitted and which I have decided
> (maybe wrongly) is carb icing. Today the outside temp was
> about 12 degrees C and I got the hiccups. I shall do some
> careful tests, recording ambient temps, carb body temp,
> and oil and CH temps in the cruise after settling down to
> see if there is any consistency about it.
>
> The hiccups are quite minor but I hate to hear anything
> which is not a continuous note from the engine.
>
> Richard
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Equipment needs |
Colin,
I have a Rotax tach, UMA Manifold pressure, EHT & CHT gauge if you
interested.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "ctsmallwood" <ctsmallwood(at)onetel.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Equipment needs
>
> Hi All
> In the market for Headsets and a Rotax Tacho gauge
> I will pay fair price and collect costs
> Regards
> Colin Smallwood
> Kit 232
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Mike Baker <galahav(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | May 21 2005 Benton, Kansas USA |
It's time to help us celebrate the opening of the new
FBO! Please help us get the word out to as many
pilots as possible.
At 7AM it's a free all you can eat Breakfast.
Throughout the day we'll have Aviat Husky Performance
demonstrations by the best factory authorized dealer
in the lower 48, Diamond aircraft demonstration
flights, Cessna Aircraft on display, Vintage aircraft
fly-bys and Stearman charity rides piloted by an
astronaut/test pilot. If we have enough interest from
those that want to test their take-off and landing
skills, we'll have a short field take-off/landing and
spot landing contest in the afternoon.
At 5 we'll start serving the $5 a plate BBQ dinners
with all the fixens.
And around 7 or so, the Classic Rock Band will carry
us through the evening.
If you need a place to stay overnight, we have plenty
of wings you can sleep under and even a few hangars if
you're afraid to sleep outside.
We hope you can spend all day or at least part of the
day with us. It's gonna be fun!!!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: where to get 914 Semi Synthetic oil in US? |
Hi all,
Rotax have recently added Pennzoil motorcycle oil to there recommended list.
It is a semi synthetic with a gear box additive. I got it from
http://www.oil-store.com/
Kerry at Lockwood aviation did express some concern about the Valvoline Dura
Blend coking up the turbocharger bearings, but I haven't seen anything
formally form Rotax on this.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Trevpond(at)aol.com |
Hi all,
Just come back from Nev Eyre's Workshop where he did the initial engine run
on a friends 914 Engined Europa. Oil system was pressurised, pulled through
by hand and then the engine started on the third blade! Temps and
pressures were perfect over half an hour up to 3000 rpm.
Nev's comment: "Why do people p***s about with any other engine? Look at
that, straight out of the box and it start's third blade!"
Trev Pond
Kit 598
being painted!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
| Subject: | Semi - synthetic oil |
Hi Ron,
FWIW, I have used the Rotax recommended semi-synthetic Valvoline
Durablend 10W-40 from day 1. I buy it at my local Autozone store. I
change it at the recommended 50 hour intervals and it is apparently
doing its job since the oil is always quite grey with lead in
suspension. Most of my running time is with 100LL.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S, 400 hours
Mooresville, North Carolina
<<<<<<<
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Europa-List: where to get 914 Semi Synthetic oil in US?
Rotax SI-18 recommendation for 914UL that will use 100LL once in a while is a semi
synthetic SG motorcycle oil with gear additive.
What brand is available and from where in US?
I saw on CPS site they offer AV-9, but also read that it had shown some foaming
in testing and was supposed to be reformulated.
Lockwood recommends mobile 1 MX4-T, and change it at 25 hours, but that is a pure
synthetic.
For most part I will probably use mogas, but on trips, 100LL.
thx. Sincerely Ron Parigoris
>>>>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "karelvranken" <karelvranken(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Airmaster AC200 manual switch? |
And Cliff, most of us who appreciate your contribution to the list are only
amateurs. Even though the red rockets under the wings of Wile E Coyote look
very impressive; I think there is no market for armament of our peaceful
bird.
What's in a word?
With great affection and friendship.
Karel Vranken # 447 F-PKRL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Airmaster AC200 manual switch?
>
> Thx. Terry and Cliff
>
> I had in mind:
> To verify operation before take off
> Go Course to keep things cool on ground
> When making long, shallow fast descents, go course
> When fooling with favorite hold settings (manual switch controls hold as
well)
> Since not sure best way to warm motor after in-flight start with a cold
motor, it
> will be played with in both hold and manual mode
> I read the manual, and seems if the AC200 quits, for any number of
reasons, the
> manual switch will get a workout
> I forget just how useful the Manual switch is for Feather/Unfeather
operations.
> I am not sure if Course will make for an easier air start, which will
require
> manual
>
> Cliff admits "Just my opinion. Remember "I am an armature"
>
> I am far worst, just a ARMCHAIR READER!
>
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | Good Rotax information, free and user friendly! |
I downloaded all the information from Kodiac. It is not very user friendly,
you really have to study and organize to make sort of sense of it in
practical terms.
I just stumbled on some easy to read and understand Rotax speak.
go to
www.sportpilot.org/
then type in their search box:
rotax power on phil lockwood
For those a bit computer compromised, click on View as HTML and you can look
quick at what the result contains, then click your back button and click PDF
to download, then you can print from there
Worth the read on the March 2005 getting started on the right Horsepower
even though it pertains to 2 strokes, at least read on the exhaust basics.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | Rotax Magnetic drain plug, Torx Plus not Torx |
For what it is worth, looking at a 912S Magnetic plug, I noticed the shape of
the points did not look like traditional torx. It looked a little like my Dads
old work on IBM Selectric typewriter Bristol wrench teeth, kinda sortta
squarish.
I looked up on http://www.mcmaster.com/
search torx plus
result torx plus socket bits.
Yup that's it.
You can use regular torx T-40 but it will apply 25% less torque.
On the 912S I looked at, the IP-40 should be a perfect fit. Snap-On sells them
as well.
"Use Torx-Plus bit sockets for increased surface contact and 25% more
torque on Torx-Plus fasteners. Sockets are heat-treated, chrome-plated alloy
steel and have black or gray bits. Note: These are compatible only with
Torx-Plus fasteners."
You can use a Torx on a torx Plus fastener, but not vise versa.
I don't know if all Rotax 4 strokes come with them, but I suspect the new 914UL
does. Someone said he thought on 912 Katanas, they just used allens, just
repeating what i heard.
Warm up motor, even heat case with heat gun to get loose first time, (aluminium
expands more than steel) could even give the plug a good whack to break it free
a bit.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole |
E builders and riders:
I am muddling through chapter 23 right now. Busy cutting out the access
hatches and the "viewing hole" in the rear of the fuselage. I'm considering the
hole locations and how "handy" they really are in their stated locations.
One of the main reasons I think they are necessary is for the replacement of
the trim motor. < Adjustment of the balance weight as well to be sure>
The ability to replace the trim motor has always been a concern of mine.
Knowing full well that all things electrical can give up the ghost. In addition,
a
few of you fine lads have already had the pleasure of replacing and or
fiddling with said motor.
The way I see it, the task of servicing the trim motor would still be
impossible with the access holes cut per manual instructions. The viewing hole
appears to be much too small to get a hand or screwdriver in our the motor out!
The forward hatch is too far away. At this time, I have no idea why the lower
hatch is even necessary.
Am I missing something here? Have any of you considered enlarging the
viewing hole for easier access to the things that will need future attention?
Perhaps I am missing some revelation a few chapters away?
You comments and wisdom please!
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Boulet <possibletodo(at)YAHOO.COM> |
| Subject: | Re: Rotax Engines |
Wellllll...in the U.S. a 914 Rotax now will set you
back some $25,000.... that's a boatload of money!
Paul Boulet, N914PB, Europa XS with Rotax 914, Malibu,
California
flying off 30 more of the requisite 40 hours
--- Trevpond(at)aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just come back from Nev Eyre's Workshop where he did
> the initial engine run
> on a friends 914 Engined Europa. Oil system was
> pressurised, pulled through
> by hand and then the engine started on the third
> blade! Temps and
> pressures were perfect over half an hour up to 3000
> rpm.
>
> Nev's comment: "Why do people p***s about with any
> other engine? Look at
> that, straight out of the box and it start's third
> blade!"
>
> Trev Pond
> Kit 598
> being painted!
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | SUNDAY 8th MAY -- DOTH |
Hi All DOTHers,
There will be a DOTH to Lands End today for anyone who would like to join us.
Free landing voucher in "Flyer".
Meet for lunch at about 12.30 for 13.00.
Best wishes,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Out of Office AutoReply: Europa-List Digest:17 Msgs - 05/07/05 |
| From: | "Moore, Dave" <Dave.Moore(at)lr.org> |
I'll be offshore for 1-2 weeks commencing 9th May.
Please contact Doug Kemp 01224 267529
Regards,
Dave Moore
Lloyd's Register (EMEA)
Tel: (0)1224 267815
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Graham Singleton <graham(at)gflight.f9.co.uk> |
| Subject: | All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole |
>>E builders and riders:<<
I am muddling through chapter 23 right now. Busy cutting out the access
hatches and the "viewing hole" in the rear of the fuselage.
The forward hatch is too far away. At this time, I have no idea why the lower
hatch is even necessary.
Am I missing something here? Have any of you considered enlarging the
viewing hole for easier access to the things that will need future attention?
Perhaps I am missing some revelation a few chapters away?
You comments and wisdom please!
>>Brian Skelly<<
Brian
you aren't wrong. IMHO the view hole needs to be much bigger. If you do this, make
sure all inspection holes are structural, ie capable of taking all the loads
in the skin across the hole. That means 6 screws in the larger holes.
A structural rule of thumb is " calculate the amount of glass cloth removed when
cutting out the hole, then add four times that area to make the flange around
the hole. Then the hole should be almost as strong without its cover as it was
before you cut it out." (I'm quoting the late much respected Barry Mellars
here, he did the original stress calcs for Ivan.)
Use the piece you cut out to make the cover, at least it will be the right shape!
It pays to make the flanges before cutting the holes;
Release wax inside over the place for the hole,
Layup the flange, 4 ply BID
Drill 2 or 3 Cleco holes outside the hole position for location, also the screw
holes in the still imaginary cover
Crack the flange off then cut out the hole, I use a Stanley knife and a small toffee
hammer. A fretsaw blade might do it even more nicely
Now the flange can be floxed back in place, the edges of the cover filled with
flox to a depth of maybe 4 mm.
Finally the fixing holes coutersunk and floxed in the same way, then screwed in
place with Tinnermen and allowed to cure.
Graham
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
| Subject: | Tour de France 18-25/6/05 |
We have the possibility of a spare seat in a Europa for the T de F . If
anyone (pilot/builder/Francophile?) is interested, contact me. David Joyce
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "R.C.Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk> |
| Subject: | All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole |
Hi! Brian,
IMHO you are quite right to have concern.
I made provision for this initially by increasing the size of the
forward hole to 5" diameter (1" larger than the manual I've seen too
many builders with scars up their arms with the 4" diameter!) but then
both holes are in the place stated. I had visions of problems accessing
the mounting screws so used cap screws of appropriate size to be able to
use the short end of a
Hexagon allen key. BUT I had them joined in pairs by welding a locking
plate under the heads. (so didn't use the allen key afterall! Then on
the reverse side of the bulkhead I used nylock nuts to get a 16th turn
ring spanner to fit. The lower hole provides access for your arm to
reach up to access the nylock nuts.
Regards
Bob Harrison G -PTAG
Robt.C.Harrison
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of
EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com
Subject: Europa-List: All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole
E builders and riders:
I am muddling through chapter 23 right now. Busy cutting out the access
hatches and the "viewing hole" in the rear of the fuselage. I'm
considering the
hole locations and how "handy" they really are in their stated
locations.
One of the main reasons I think they are necessary is for the
replacement of
the trim motor. < Adjustment of the balance weight as well to be sure>
The ability to replace the trim motor has always been a concern of mine.
Knowing full well that all things electrical can give up the ghost. In
addition, a
few of you fine lads have already had the pleasure of replacing and or
fiddling with said motor.
The way I see it, the task of servicing the trim motor would still be
impossible with the access holes cut per manual instructions. The
viewing hole
appears to be much too small to get a hand or screwdriver in our the
motor out!
The forward hatch is too far away. At this time, I have no idea why the
lower
hatch is even necessary.
Am I missing something here? Have any of you considered enlarging the
viewing hole for easier access to the things that will need future
attention?
Perhaps I am missing some revelation a few chapters away?
You comments and wisdom please!
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK |
Guys,
I wanted to give you a post-script to what was an unhappy episode but is now
very much sorted. I just spoke with Scott Powell (who runs LAS) and he's
been very keen to resolve the problems I've had. He also assures me that
they are most definitely not the norm, and that we can all look forward to
an excellent service from the LAS-ACS setup :-)
As I said to Scott, I judge my suppliers not by the mistakes they make, but
by the way they resolve them. I'm happy to say that LAS have stepped up to
the plate on this one and given me the confidence to continue to use their
service!
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1390 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Davey
Subject: Europa-List: LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK
I guess all the UK folks are aware the existing arrangements for local ACS
orders have ended? I now see that LAS are taking them on and doing
twice-weekly consolidated shipping of ACS parts before onward distribution.
Does this fill everyone else with the same feeling of doom that it gives me?
I=92ve found LAS to be utterly incapable of getting even simple orders
right,
outrageously expensive (typically 200%+ of the ACS cost for parts), liable
to substitute parts without warning with their choice of equivalent, and
prone to sending everything by courier without even checking if that=92s
what
you want.
For example, one recent backorder of bits just got sent to me and they
charged me extra postage for sending it! GBP13 of parts, plus GBP25.90 to
send it by courier, when good old Royal Mail would have done it just as well
for about GBP3. After waiting for the parts for a month, an extra 2 days
wouldn=92t have been the end of the world. Needless to say I=92m fighting
it!
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
=93If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it
is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.=94
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1390 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK |
From the folks I've spoken to, John, your argument is borne out. I think
I've just had a couple of unlucky experiences, and in fairness to LAS, they
have fixed the problems (see separate email).
If this proves a good way of getting small ACS orders over to this side of
the Atlantic quickly, I for one, welcome it now and look forward to it being
a success! :-)
Cheers,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1390 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Cliff
Subject: Re: Europa-List: LAS taking on ACS orders in the UK
> I guess all the UK folks are aware the existing arrangements for local ACS
> orders have ended? I now see that LAS are taking them on and doing
> twice-weekly consolidated shipping of ACS parts before onward
> distribution.
>
> Does this fill everyone else with the same feeling of doom that it gives
> me?
Well, my experience with Light Aero Spares has been fairly positive. I
order only by phone and you get to hear if something isn't in stock. The
prices are in the catalogue, so if you don't like them ...... Delivery
has always been prompt and by post.
Actually I welcome the return to consolidated shipping via LAS, as used to
be the practice some years ago. The problem with smallish orders to ACS is
the high fixed cost of the carriage (even though they will send light and
small items by post which takes a while but is a bit cheaper and often
arrive with no duty or VAT levied - even if it is the Royal Mail admin
charge is much lower than that of people like UPS). It *might* provide a
way to get things at lower end-to-end cost for those of us who don't visit
the US regularly - we will have to look at the actual charges. Otherwise,
continue to use the website.
John Cliff
#0259
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Dale" <gdh(at)isp.com> |
| Subject: | Re: All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole |
Brian
I'm one of those that had to replace the pitch servo when it "ran away" and
drove the jack screw up through it's housing. To replace it, I had to
enlarge the "Viewing Hole". If your just cutting yours, I would recommend
making it larger now, rather than later.
Dale
A140XS with ~65 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: <EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole
>
> E builders and riders:
>
> I am muddling through chapter 23 right now. Busy cutting out the access
> hatches and the "viewing hole" in the rear of the fuselage. I'm
> considering the
> hole locations and how "handy" they really are in their stated locations.
>
> One of the main reasons I think they are necessary is for the replacement
> of
> the trim motor. < Adjustment of the balance weight as well to be sure>
> The ability to replace the trim motor has always been a concern of mine.
> Knowing full well that all things electrical can give up the ghost. In
> addition, a
> few of you fine lads have already had the pleasure of replacing and or
> fiddling with said motor.
>
> The way I see it, the task of servicing the trim motor would still be
> impossible with the access holes cut per manual instructions. The viewing
> hole
> appears to be much too small to get a hand or screwdriver in our the motor
> out!
> The forward hatch is too far away. At this time, I have no idea why the
> lower
> hatch is even necessary.
>
> Am I missing something here? Have any of you considered enlarging the
> viewing hole for easier access to the things that will need future
> attention?
>
> Perhaps I am missing some revelation a few chapters away?
>
> You comments and wisdom please!
>
> Brian Skelly
> Texas
> Europa # A276 TriGear
> See My build photos at:
> http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "davebuzz" <davebuzz(at)aol.com> |
| Subject: | Mod 70 Club view |
Some of you may be interested in the Club's view of Mod70. You can find this
at:
http://www.europaclub.org.uk/ in the 'News' pages.
I realise it may not be what you wanted to hear, but in view of the seven
complaints I received, plus a small number relayed through the Committee and
noted on the list, we have certainly put some time into it, and I believe
the Mod does the job in replacing what it does.
It has been interesting to note a couple of comments on the list in favour
of the Mod, and for us UK owners, I think we are lucky not to be in the
position of those Shadow Microlight owners, who were grounded for months due
to undercarriage problems and no one to support them. At least we have a
Factory to support our plane.
If anyone wishes to pursue this further, and perhaps requires a PFA mod
number for the fitting of turnbuckles, then you can use mine:
<<
G-BXUM, kit67, PFA 247-12611, 'Additional cable Turnbuckles', Mod: M10028,
dated April 1997: Turnbuckles in both TP18 cables, Bolted at the front onto
the lugs with castle nuts and split pins.
>>
If this is you configuration then feel free to use it as a reference.
All the best,
dave
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole |
It appears that the concessus is a 4" viewing hole with 4 ply reinforcement.
Thank to all for the speedy replies! Back to the shop for me!
Appreciatively.
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
From: EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 14:28:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Europa-List: All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole
-------------------------------1115576919
In a message dated 5/8/2005 6:48:11 AM Central Standard Time,
djgeldermann(at)cox.net writes:
I cut it out to a 4 inch access hole. I also added
another 4 inch access hole on the lower left side of the fuselage about 8
inches in front of the rear bulkheadand and about 6 inches under the leading
It appears that the concessus is a 4" viewing hole with 4 ply reinforcement.
Thank to all for the speedy replies! Back to the shop for me!
Appreciatively.
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
-------------------------------1115576919
In a message dated 5/8/2005 6:48:11 AM Central Standard Time, djgeldermann(at)cox.net
writes:
I cut it out to a 4 inch access hole. I=20also added
another 4 inch access hole on the lower left side of the fuselage about 8
inches in front of the rear bulkheadand and about 6 inches=20under the leading
It appears that the concessus is a 4" viewing hole with 4 ply reinforcement.
Thank to all for the speedy replies! Back to the shop for me!
Appreciatively.
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
-------------------------------1115576919--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole |
Brian,
I think you may have missed the point. It was stated that four times the
area of "cloth" removed that should be provided as a flange around the hole,
not four plies; although the last time I heard this general rule quoted it
was to be three times the weight of the cloth removed from the hole.
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: <EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com>
Subject: Fwd: Europa-List: All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole
>
> It appears that the concessus is a 4" viewing hole with 4 ply
reinforcement.
> Thank to all for the speedy replies! Back to the shop for me!
>
> Appreciatively.
>
> Brian Skelly
> Texas
> Europa # A276 TriGear
> See My build photos at:
> http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
>
> From: EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com
> Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 14:28:39 EDT
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole
> To: djgeldermann(at)cox.net
>
>
> -------------------------------1115576919
>
> In a message dated 5/8/2005 6:48:11 AM Central Standard Time,
> djgeldermann(at)cox.net writes:
> I cut it out to a 4 inch access hole. I also added
> another 4 inch access hole on the lower left side of the fuselage about 8
> inches in front of the rear bulkheadand and about 6 inches under the
leading
>
>
> It appears that the concessus is a 4" viewing hole with 4 ply
reinforcement.
> Thank to all for the speedy replies! Back to the shop for me!
>
> Appreciatively.
>
> Brian Skelly
> Texas
> Europa # A276 TriGear
> See My build photos at:
> http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
>
> -------------------------------1115576919
>
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 5/8/2005 6:48:11 AM Central Standard Time,
djgeldermann(at)cox.net writes:
> I cut it out to a 4 inch access hole. I=20also added
> another 4 inch access hole on the lower left side of the fuselage about 8
> inches in front of the rear bulkheadand and about 6 inches=20under the
leading
>
>
> It appears that the concessus is a 4" viewing hole with 4 ply
reinforcement.
> Thank to all for the speedy replies! Back to the shop for me!
>
> Appreciatively.
>
> Brian Skelly
> Texas
> Europa # A276 TriGear
> See My build photos at:
> http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
>
>
> -------------------------------1115576919--
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info> |
| Subject: | Mod 70 Club view |
Dave
Thanks to all who made the effort to investigate this. There was no
reason to suppose that the factory got their sums wrong but the
temptation to add an additional pair of braces was very high,
particularly given the wires were in place and to replace them in situe
would be near impossible!
Regards
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of davebuzz
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 70 Club view
Some of you may be interested in the Club's view of Mod70. You can find
this
at:
http://www.europaclub.org.uk/ in the 'News' pages.
I realise it may not be what you wanted to hear, but in view of the
seven complaints I received, plus a small number relayed through the
Committee and noted on the list, we have certainly put some time into
it, and I believe the Mod does the job in replacing what it does.
It has been interesting to note a couple of comments on the list in
favour of the Mod, and for us UK owners, I think we are lucky not to be
in the position of those Shadow Microlight owners, who were grounded for
months due to undercarriage problems and no one to support them. At
least we have a Factory to support our plane.
If anyone wishes to pursue this further, and perhaps requires a PFA
mod number for the fitting of turnbuckles, then you can use mine: <<
G-BXUM, kit67, PFA 247-12611, 'Additional cable Turnbuckles', Mod:
M10028, dated April 1997: Turnbuckles in both TP18 cables, Bolted at the
front onto the lugs with castle nuts and split pins.
>>
If this is you configuration then feel free to use it as a reference.
All the best,
dave
--
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Innodyne turbines |
Folks,
Anyone (particularly Stateside) know anything about these little turbines
for the Experimental market?
http://www.innodyn.com/
Regards,
Jeremy
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
=93If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.=94
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1390 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaXSA276(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: All these access hatches and one "viewing" hole |
No. I got that part too! But thanks for looking after me Duncan!
Brian Skelly
Texas
Europa # A276 TriGear
See My build photos at:
http://www.europaowners.org/BrianS
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
| Subject: | Fwd: Air-Britain Fly-In 2005 |
Forwarded FYI:
>From: "Philip Kemp" <philipdkemp(at)btopenworld.com>
>Subject: Air-Britain Fly-In 2005
>Date: Sun, 8 May 2005 21:35:11 +0100
>Status: U
>
>AIR-BRITAIN CLASSIC FLY-IN
>
>NORTH WEALD AIRFIELD
>
>18-19 June 2005
>
>
>Dear PFA Strut and PFA associated type-group Secretaries,
>
>
>Air-Britains, the worlds leading aviation
>historian and enthusiasts association (see
><http://www.air-britain.com/>) is holding its
>26th Classic aircraft Fly-In at North Weald over
>the weekend of 18-19 June 2005 (see
>www.air-britainflyin.co.uk)
>
>
>This year for our main theme we are marking the
>70th anniversary of the Boeing PT13 Stearman and
>the 60th anniversary of the first flights of the
>Beech V35 Bonanza, Cessna 120/140 and Pitts
>Special. With our "Classic" title we would also
>like as many aircraft that fall under the
>"Classic" heading to join us for our event.
>
>
>While we have personally invited the owners of
>the above types from across Europe to join us we
>are pleased to welcome any aircraft and its
>occupants - we do not discriminate by age or
>nationality, either of aircraft or aviators!
>Air-Britain would therefore like to extend an
>open invitation to all your members to our event.
>
>
>Airborne arrivals are STRICTLY PPR and arrival
>arrangements must be made in advance through The
>Squadron/North Weald Flying Services on 01992
>524510
>
>
>As usual, we will be offering our traditional
>friendly hospitality for both days and a number
>of awards will be given out to visiting
>aircraft. Catering will be available all day and
>on Saturday evening a Giant stir-fry meal is
>being cooked on site, so why not stay over and
>enjoy the hospitality of the Squadron. Basic
>overnight camping facilities are available for
>those wishing to stay for the weekend and we
>have also put reservations on some rooms at the
>nearby Harlow Moat House Hotel. Details of local
>accommodation is available from our website.
>
>
>Our annual Fly-In has established a reputation
>for being a friendly event that brings together
>pilots, enthusiasts and historians to exchange
>experiences and knowledge in a relaxed
>atmosphere. We sincerely hope that you and your
>colleagues will be able to join us and also help
>us show that there continues to be an aviation
>need for the development-threatened North Weald
>airfield.
>
>
>I would be grateful if you could communicate
>this invitation and publicise our event to your
>members. If you or any of your members require
>any further information please do not hesitate
>to contact me on the numbers below.
>
>
>Many thanks for your cooperation and I hope you
>and your members can join us in June.
>
>
>Yours sincerely,
>
>
> Phil Kemp
>
>Air-Britain Fly-In Director
>
>
>Telephone: 01376 344441 (after 8pm weekdays please)
>
>E-mail: philipdkemp(at)btinternet.com
I guess the Classic theme excludes the XS ........ :-)
regards
Rowland
--
| Rowland Carson Europa Club Membership Secretary - email for info!
| Europa 435 G-ROWI (750 hours building) PFA #16532
| e-mail website
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Through the firewall |
To those that have done it from those that are trying to do it.
Is there another place to mount the fuel pump to avoid feeding pipework back to
the baggage bay then forward again?
How have people routed the fuel pipe from the pump to the engine ?
Manual says run the pipe under the brake cylinder forward but this would put it
too close to the wheel and the flap tube.
Why should we mount the battery in the stb compartment of the baggage bay and then
route the cables up the port side to the panel?
How are you running the battery cables forward?
How do we get the fuel pipes and the cables through the firewall?
Help.
Mike Gamble
XS 440
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Through the firewall |
| From: | "Terry Seaver (terrys)" <terrys(at)cisco.com> |
Hi Mike,
Please see my answers inline;
Terry Seaver
A135
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Gamble
Subject: Europa-List: Through the firewall
To those that have done it from those that are trying to do it.
Is there another place to mount the fuel pump to avoid feeding pipework
back to the baggage bay then forward again?
Answer: We stuck with the factory suggested locations.
How have people routed the fuel pipe from the pump to the engine ?
Manual says run the pipe under the brake cylinder forward but this would
put it too close to the wheel and the flap tube.
Answer: We stuck with the factory suggested routing, as I recall. We
deviated from this initially, then had to redo it to the suggested
locations when we fit the air brake lever for the long wings.
Why should we mount the battery in the stb compartment of the baggage
bay and then route the cables up the port side to the panel?
How are you running the battery cables forward?
Answer: We mounted the battery under the stb baggage bay access panel,
routed 4-gauge wire up the stb side to a mechanical contactor on the
rear face of the passenger head rest, and then on up the stb side to the
bolts in the stb side of the firewall (see below on the bolts). We used
a mechanical contactor rather than a contactor relay to save 1 amp of
precious electrical power budget.
How do we get the fuel pipes and the cables through the firewall?
Answer: The fuel lines run forward thru the tunnel, then through a hole
or slot in the stainless piece of the firewall that you fabricate for
the area between the footwells.
Using the factory wiring option, the 4-gauge battery cables come up
the starboard side of the fuselage to the firewall, where they connect
to copper (or brass?) bolts/nuts thru the firewall, with 4-gauge wires
on the engine side connecting to the starter relay (+) and one of the
engine mounting bolts (-). Connecting to the bolts on the inside are
lugs for the 10-gauge wires for the +12V and ground to the panel.
Help.
Mike Gamble
XS 440
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Help with oil hose |
I'm having trouble finding the "conti" oil tube called for in the engine
manual. Apparantly Rotax no longer ships the hose with the engines.
Anyone have a source, part number or specs on this hose? All help
appreciated...
--
Jeff A055
Trying to finish the engine installation...
Waiting on a prop
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi> |
Hi All!
I want to establish my rudder stops.
The rudder movement should be 30-32 degrees per side.
Noticed it is not easy to measure accurately:
I have made templates, calculated triconometrically,
completed geometric examinations etc but not happy enough.
Have you got any perfect but human way to do it?
Thanks,
Raimo M W Toivio
OH-XRT #417, 1044 hours so far
OH-CVK
OH-BLL
37500 Lempaala
Finland
tel + 358 3 3753 777
fax + 358 3 3753 100
gsm + 358 40 590 1450
raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi
www.rwm.fi
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder stops |
Raimo Toivio wrote:
>
>Hi All!
>
>I want to establish my rudder stops.
>The rudder movement should be 30-32 degrees per side.
>Noticed it is not easy to measure accurately:
>I have made templates, calculated triconometrically,
>completed geometric examinations etc but not happy enough.
>
>Have you got any perfect but human way to do it?
>
>Thanks,
>Raimo M W Toivio
>
>OH-XRT #417, 1044 hours so far
>OH-CVK
>OH-BLL
>
>37500 Lempaala
>Finland
>tel + 358 3 3753 777
>fax + 358 3 3753 100
>gsm + 358 40 590 1450
>
>raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi
>www.rwm.fi
>
>
>
>
Raimo,
I don't know about perfect, but here's what I did. I took a 2x4 and
stapled a piece of cardboard to it, then drew a line down the center.
Using a protractor, I drew lines, each side, tangent to the center line,
at 30 and 32 degrees. I then positioned the 2x4 under the aft end of
the fuse, arranging the gizmo so that the board ran the center line of
the fuse and the line intersections at the rudder hinge area. Swung the
rudder each way and added the stops. Pretty simple, in application...
--
Jeff - A055
Finishing engine installation
Waiting on a prop
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
Good day all,
Well, I was going away for a three week vacation and really wanted to have
the top on before I left so it would have the three weeks to cure undisturbed.
Got all the last minute things done that I had planned to do. With the help
of my wife and son (home from Iraq for good) we went through all the moans
and groans but got the top on successfully.
Now I come home, start going through the 300+ Europa Forum emails and see
this Mod 70 thing pop up! Might I suggest to the powers that be, that if
something like this is in the pipeline, maybe put out an advisory about the nature
of the problem while you are still working on it so that people can adjust
their schedule, or not, with this in mind.
Anyway, the top is on. I will decide what to do about the Mod 70 later. For
now I want to ask a question in order to not redo things later. After the top
is on, we are supposed to put re enforcing BID strips from the seat up the
sidewall to the door frame in order to spread out the stress from the landing
gear. The instructions call for two plies of BID over a 7 mm piece of fitted
foam. This would cover the bolt heads of the front wing bracket. So a simple
question.....Wouldn't the sidewall be stronger without the foam? What am I
missing?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Top on....but too late for Mod 70! Damn!
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> |
| Subject: | Waht is your favorite way of locking door? |
What is your favorite way of locking your door on europa?
I kinda like the idea of using a pip pin on the right door, where does it
go? Between the inner handle and guard?
I do have a set of locks from John Hurst, but they are kinda cheesy, have
read that if someone leverages the handle hard when locked by the rear
pushrod it does bad things.
Any thoughts on using a torx safety set screw (Torx with pin in center, not
many folks happen to have one) that lives in the handle, and when you want
to lock, just screw it into a hardpoint in door?
thx.
Ron Parigoris
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Waht is your favorite way of locking door? |
Door Locks Now this is a new topic !!!!!!
I abide by the theory that a "bad guy" will get in anyway. The locks system
I make is the type that makes the good guys stay out. The bad guys will get
in by braking some thing anyway.
I installed key lock units that rotate a bar inside the door 90 degrees.
This bar blocks the movement of the shoot bolt. The door handle feels stiff
and is not going to move without a very heavy pull. Thus the good guy will
not get in !!!!
Just a note: Here in the USA, the TSA has made several attempts to require
us to have two locks / security devises on our planes. My door locks are
the second. The hanger door lick is the first.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
> What is your favorite way of locking your door on europa?
>
>
> thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Mike
I thought the idea was to make this a structural thing. Like the hull of our
plane, the foam core is a way to get a stronger structure with less weight.
I know that 2 ply of foam on each side of the foam is much stiffer than 4
ply alone.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
> Wouldn't the sidewall be stronger without the foam? What am I
> missing?
>
> Mike Duane A207
> Redding, California
> XS Conventional Gear
> Top on....but too late for Mod 70! Damn!
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Ellison" <craig.ellison2(at)verizon.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with oil hose |
Jeff,
I had the same question when I couldn't find the "conti" oil hose. I called
Europa and indeed Rotax does not ship engines at least stateside with the
tube. Andy said he could ship one but suggested I sourse one on this end
which I did at my local Napa store with much cost savings.
craig ellison
A205
working through FWF
----- Original Message -----
From: "N55XS" <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Help with oil hose
>
> I'm having trouble finding the "conti" oil tube called for in the engine
> manual. Apparantly Rotax no longer ships the hose with the engines.
> Anyone have a source, part number or specs on this hose? All help
> appreciated...
>
> --
> Jeff A055
> Trying to finish the engine installation...
> Waiting on a prop
>
>
> --
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Through the firewall |
Mike
The fuel pump and gas collator could be installed in the tunnel if you are
building a trigear. On a Mono, the fuel lines run nicely in the top corner
of the tunnel. They will have to go into the Engine compartment through the
Stainless Steel unless you bring them inside the cockpit and then through
the firewall with a bulkhead fitting. I did it both ways, first through the
SS on Bob's Mono, and then into the cockpit at the very front of the tunnel
and then through the firewall. This last method allows for a very nice way
to connect the engine fuel hoses to a solid fitting.
Battery Not everyone puts the batter in the back. I have mine in the
engine compartment ware it belongs. Yes it moves the CG foreword. That is
not all bd. The way my plane came out, it would take a very heavy load of
baggage to get an aft CG. I don't think a foreword Cg is bad. Most Europas
require nose down trim when in cruse anyway.
Remember, I am "amanature builder"
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
>
> To those that have done it from those that are trying to do it.
> Is there another place to mount the fuel pump to avoid feeding pipework
> back to the baggage bay then forward again?
> How have people routed the fuel pipe from the pump to the engine ?
> Manual says run the pipe under the brake cylinder forward but this would
> put it too close to the wheel and the flap tube.
> Why should we mount the battery in the stb compartment of the baggage bay
> and then route the cables up the port side to the panel?
> How are you running the battery cables forward?
> How do we get the fuel pipes and the cables through the firewall?
> Help.
> Mike Gamble
> XS 440
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca> |
| Subject: | Re: Waht is your favorite way of locking door? |
I think my first 'barrier' is a magnetic release. Somewhere about a foot
back of the top back corner of the door will be a secret spot where a magnet
sits, ready to flip a relay which permits the door lever to turn. Its
companion magnet is in the palm of my hand, so that when I unobtrusively
lean on the spot to turn the lever, my hand sits just where the magnet is. I
will palm the hand magnet. A buddy uses these to release the headrest
panels and says they have no effect on the compass.........
Anyway that's the plan.
Ferg
A064
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Waht is your favorite way of locking door?
|
|
| Door Locks Now this is a new topic !!!!!!
|
|
| I abide by the theory that a "bad guy" will get in anyway. The locks
system
| I make is the type that makes the good guys stay out. The bad guys will
get
| in by braking some thing anyway.
|
| I installed key lock units that rotate a bar inside the door 90 degrees.
| This bar blocks the movement of the shoot bolt. The door handle feels
stiff
| and is not going to move without a very heavy pull. Thus the good guy
will
| not get in !!!!
|
| Just a note: Here in the USA, the TSA has made several attempts to
require
| us to have two locks / security devises on our planes. My door locks are
| the second. The hanger door lick is the first.
|
|
| Cliff Shaw
| 1041 Euclid ave.
| Edmonds, WA 98020
| 425 776 5555
| http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
|
|
| > What is your favorite way of locking your door on europa?
| >
| >
| > thx.
| > Ron Parigoris
| >
| >
| >
|
|
|
|
|
|
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with oil hose |
Craig Ellison wrote:
>
>Jeff,
>
>I had the same question when I couldn't find the "conti" oil hose. I called
>Europa and indeed Rotax does not ship engines at least stateside with the
>tube. Andy said he could ship one but suggested I sourse one on this end
>which I did at my local Napa store with much cost savings.
>
>craig ellison
>A205
>
Craig, thanks for the response. Do you have any specs (type) for the
hose you bought? Is it a high pressure hose, brade reinforced, etc? I
have no idea what, exactly I'm looking for...
Jeff - A055
Finishing up on engine install
Waiting for a prop
Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
Cliff,
I just looked at the top panel for the wing and realized what they are going
for with the foam core. Now I understand the concept.
As a side note, are you going to be at Arlington this year? My wife and I
are doing a loop trip up through Oregon, Washington, Canada, Idaho, Montana,
Utah, Nevada, and back to Calif. So we decided (I decided, she'll come along) to
stay at Arlington for the whole show. I hope to see a few Europas while
there.
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Top On! Now going forward by working in the aft portion of the fuselage.
I am so glad I built that shelf behind the BB bulkhead.
Do Not Archive
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Hi!
Whilst waiting to lose weight for Mod 70 I decided to do something
constructive.....well maybe!
I=B9ve assembled the EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold Module that was talked over a
couple of years ago and after classic errors in polarity of capacitors and
diodes have a Unit that no longer self destructs. It=B9s now time to upload
the Basic programme but I have Comm errors.
I=B9ve connected the programming port to BS2 pins 1 to 4 via D9 socket.
Some questions:
Should I get any indication on Unit that it is really alive? (Volts all
present)
Any peculiarities regarding the Programme Port handshaking?
Is anyone using the Unit and is it worth the trouble in a Europa?
Many Thanks
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
I too am interested in this unit as I've just one and its still "in the
box" so all help and advise would be appreciated.
Many Thanks
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry
Holland
Subject: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold
Hi!
Whilst waiting to lose weight for Mod 70 I decided to do something
constructive.....well maybe!
I=B9ve assembled the EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold Module that was talked over a
couple of years ago and after classic errors in polarity of capacitors
and diodes have a Unit that no longer self destructs. It=B9s now time to
upload the Basic programme but I have Comm errors.
I=B9ve connected the programming port to BS2 pins 1 to 4 via D9 socket.
Some questions:
Should I get any indication on Unit that it is really alive? (Volts all
present)
Any peculiarities regarding the Programme Port handshaking?
Is anyone using the Unit and is it worth the trouble in a Europa?
Many Thanks
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Waht is your favorite way of locking door? |
I decided to put a T piece of aluminium just to the rear of the handle, this
is bonded inside the door with a small section protruding out,
A small piece of aluminium welded at right angles to the door handle will
contact nicely with the T piece, Drill a hole through both and any small
padlock will do to secure the cockpit,
I decided to do it this way to make it obvious that the doors are locked ,
so no chance of having internal locks broken by somebody not realising there
own strength and pulling on the handles,
This i copied from a europa at Cranfield a couple of years back
Ivor Phillips
XS486 London UK
CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
undercarriage fitted brakes working
wing lift pins fitted,tiebar fitted instrument
panel being finalised,
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Subject: Europa-List: Waht is your favorite way of locking door?
>
>
> What is your favorite way of locking your door on europa?
>
> I kinda like the idea of using a pip pin on the right door, where does it
> go? Between the inner handle and guard?
>
> I do have a set of locks from John Hurst, but they are kinda cheesy, have
> read that if someone leverages the handle hard when locked by the rear
> pushrod it does bad things.
>
> Any thoughts on using a torx safety set screw (Torx with pin in center,
> not
> many folks happen to have one) that lives in the handle, and when you want
> to lock, just screw it into a hardpoint in door?
>
> thx.
> Ron Parigoris
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with oil hose |
Jeff,
There was no Conti hose in our FWF either. We used braided teflon lined
hose for the run from the bottom of the engine to the oil tank, past the
exhaust. Purchased it from McMaster p/n 52515K29. Also covered it with
Thermo Sleeve, identical to the cover on the water hoses from Rotax. Get
Thermo Sleeve from Summit Racing www.summitracing.com. P/n THE-14010 and
THE-14015 little stuff for oil hoses, larger stuff for water hoses.
Jim & Heather A185
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Kingsley Hurst" <hurstkr(at)growzone.com.au> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder stops |
Raimo,
Refer to Europa News Issue No 39 September 2003 Page 14.
Exactly what you want to know is described here presumably by Andy Draper.
Regards
Kingsley
> I want to establish my rudder stops.
> The rudder movement should be 30-32 degrees per side.
> Noticed it is not easy to measure accurately:
> I have made templates, calculated triconometrically,
> completed geometric examinations etc but not happy enough.
>
> Have you got any perfect but human way to do it?
>
> Thanks,
> Raimo M W Toivio
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
Hi all,
I would be interested to know if anyone has one of these units flying. A
friend of mine built one for his RV6, but he could never get it to work
properly. Ultimately he re designed his unit, and he needed to supplement
the pressure sensor with a solid state gyro. He also needed to change the
software significantly by adding in PID algorithms. It took him a bout a
year to shake it all down, but it now works really nicely.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder stops |
Hi All!
I have got plenty of great answers
from almost all the continents - I
thank all of you. Also, now I know
there must be Europas flying equipped
with all sorts of different rudder travels
I noticed about 50% think rudder travel
should be measured from the centerline
and rest of the Europa-people think it
should measured via line from the hinge-line
to the trailing edge.
Some people think it is good when "enough".
I think the rudder movement should be
symmetrical for aircraft centerline and that is
why it is better to imagine the hinge-line is
in center.
This is an interesting dilemma.
Please some public conversation more!
Neville - tell us the truth!
Many thanks for all of you,
Raimo
Raimo M W Toivio
OH-XRT #417
OH-CVK
OH-BLL
37500 Lempaala
Finland
tel + 358 3 3753 777
fax + 358 3 3753 100
gsm + 358 40 590 1450
raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi
www.rwm.fi
----- Original Message -----
From: "N55XS" <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: rudder stops
>
> Raimo,
> I don't know about perfect, but here's what I did. I took a 2x4 and
> stapled a piece of cardboard to it, then drew a line down the center.
> Using a protractor, I drew lines, each side, tangent to the center line,
> at 30 and 32 degrees. I then positioned the 2x4 under the aft end of
> the fuse, arranging the gizmo so that the board ran the center line of
> the fuse and the line intersections at the rudder hinge area. Swung the
> rudder each way and added the stops. Pretty simple, in application...
>
> --
> Jeff - A055
> Finishing engine installation
> Waiting on a prop
> Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Waht is your favorite way of locking door? |
And remember, there is no need to have two external locks. I lock my
passenger door from the inside: a simple arrangement of pip pin through the
handle guard and handle. As Cliff says any lock is easily defeated by the
bad guy, but you want to avoid kids and others to play around with
thecontrols, and discourage the potential thief who might take a fancy to
your headset.
>From: "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: Waht is your favorite way of locking door?
>Date: Tue, 10 May 2005 09:25:40 +0100
>
>
>
>I decided to put a T piece of aluminium just to the rear of the handle,
>this
>is bonded inside the door with a small section protruding out,
>A small piece of aluminium welded at right angles to the door handle will
>contact nicely with the T piece, Drill a hole through both and any small
>padlock will do to secure the cockpit,
>I decided to do it this way to make it obvious that the doors are locked ,
>so no chance of having internal locks broken by somebody not realising
>there
>own strength and pulling on the handles,
>This i copied from a europa at Cranfield a couple of years back
>Ivor Phillips
>XS486 London UK
>CM Installed, rudder cables complete,
>undercarriage fitted brakes working
> wing lift pins fitted,tiebar fitted instrument
>panel being finalised,
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ronald J. Parigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>To:
>Subject: Europa-List: Waht is your favorite way of locking door?
>
>
> >
> >
> > What is your favorite way of locking your door on europa?
> >
> > I kinda like the idea of using a pip pin on the right door, where does
>it
> > go? Between the inner handle and guard?
> >
> > I do have a set of locks from John Hurst, but they are kinda cheesy,
>have
> > read that if someone leverages the handle hard when locked by the rear
> > pushrod it does bad things.
> >
> > Any thoughts on using a torx safety set screw (Torx with pin in center,
> > not
> > many folks happen to have one) that lives in the handle, and when you
>want
> > to lock, just screw it into a hardpoint in door?
> >
> > thx.
> > Ron Parigoris
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: Through the firewall |
Mike, It has worked well for me having fuel pumps, a fuel pressure sensor
and a mini gascolator with drain plug venting down thru an access hatch,
(this being the lowest point of fuel system on a mono), all under the
starboard baggage bay. The fuel pipes run forward as per Europa instructions
thru the wheel well and have been fine.
My battery (and several others' batteries) have worked very
conveniently mounted firewall forward above pax footwell - and this is with
914 & wobbly prop, (admittedly a Kremen/Woodcomp, which are as light as they
get). I would certainly recommend putting it there until proved otherwise,
and even if you need to fix the odd pound of lead to the stern post to give
your optimum C of G posn.You save a fair amount of weight through only
having short heavy duty cable runs and very simple fixing arrangements, and
it is convenient for working on anything in the engine compartment.
Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: Through the firewall
>
> To those that have done it from those that are trying to do it.
> Is there another place to mount the fuel pump to avoid feeding pipework
back to the baggage bay then forward again?
> How have people routed the fuel pipe from the pump to the engine ?
> Manual says run the pipe under the brake cylinder forward but this would
put it too close to the wheel and the flap tube.
> Why should we mount the battery in the stb compartment of the baggage bay
and then route the cables up the port side to the panel?
> How are you running the battery cables forward?
> How do we get the fuel pipes and the cables through the firewall?
> Help.
> Mike Gamble
> XS 440
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Doctors.net.uk e-mail protects you from viruses and unsolicited messages
>
> Free education for all doctors.
> The simple, fast way to prove you are keeping up to date.
http://www.doctors.net.uk/education
> _______________________________________________________________________
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaForum <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
I built four units when I was in EZ-trim mode. One went in a Cozy
with a strong pitch trim. The trim on the Cozy is wicked fast and
I've been trying to get my buddy to put in a speed limiter. Needless
to say that unit doesn't work so well. The unit in a Mini Mustang II
works great, my friend wrote all new code to run a hobby servo. A
stock unit was installed in a glastar, I never heard back from him,
so I guess it worked. I plan on writing my own code after I get flying.
I want to see how the trim works at cruse, and may install a servo
speed controller. Setting the Ez-trim up is a two person job, don't
try to do the initial setup in the aircraft alone. The boards we had
made on the list a few years ago have the sockets need to attach the
accelerometer, I think a more powerful stamp is needed to run the
program for it, that is after you write it. ADXL202EB Is the unit
and its available @:
http://www.newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/newark/en_US/endecaSearch/
partDetail.jsp?SKU=09B8085&N=0
As far a connecting the board to the computer. With the unit on and
the programing software running, I recall getting some "BSsomething
detected message"
when I had the computer search Com 1. Photos of the boards and a
picture of a home brewed connection cable are @;
http://www.europaowners.org/album36
Chat Later,
Steved.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Paul Hi!
> I would be interested to know if anyone has one of these units flying. A
> friend of mine built one for his RV6, but he could never get it to work
> properly. Ultimately he re designed his unit, and he needed to supplement
> the pressure sensor with a solid state gyro. He also needed to change the
> software significantly by adding in PID algorithms. It took him a bout a
> year to shake it all down, but it now works really nicely.
Thanks for that update. PID Algorithms are now available as part of the
Basic upload. The PID011501.bs2 source includes modest correction logic. As
the plane continues to deviate a extra amount of integral correction is
added for the next correction. So it alters it's response but starts with a
modest correction.
Any website I can go to see this guys amendments?
I'm still trying to sort out the handshake to allow upload of the source
file!
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | John & Paddy Wigney <johnwigney(at)worldnet.att.net> |
Hi Jeff,
If you need any Rotax supplies, I recommend Lockwood Aviation.
http://www.lockwood-aviation.com/las.php They have always been most helpful.
Cheers, John
N262WF, mono XS, 912S
Mooresville, North Carolina
<<<<<<
Subject: Europa-List: Help with oil hose
I'm having trouble finding the "conti" oil tube called for in the engine
manual. Apparantly Rotax no longer ships the hose with the engines.
Anyone have a source, part number or specs on this hose? All help
appreciated...
-- Jeff A055 Trying to finish the engine installation... Waiting on a prop
>>>>>>>>>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Trailer Wing Support |
Jim Butcher wrote:
>
>Does anyone have a decent photo of the factory trailer showing the wing support
at the spar end? I'm trying to determine if the spar pin hole is used to keep
the wing from sliding forward and backwards as the trailer speeds up and slows
down. Or any suggestions on how others have addressed this situation?
>
>Thanks
>
>Jim Butcher A185
>
>
>
>
Jim,
Just noticed this old email, which I had intended to address. I'm in
the process of building a tri-gear trailer and will send you some pics
when it is done. The spar-end support will have a captive socket, using
the spar pin hole to lock the wing into place. My trailer is a bit
larger than those sold by Europa, but the size will allow room for extra
clearance of parts and the extra weight will provide for a smoother
ride. The complete rig will cost under $800. to build. More later...
--
Jeff - A055
Almost there...
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Help with oil hose |
Jim Butcher wrote:
>
>Jeff,
>
>There was no Conti hose in our FWF either. We used braided teflon lined
>hose for the run from the bottom of the engine to the oil tank, past the
>exhaust. Purchased it from McMaster p/n 52515K29. Also covered it with
>Thermo Sleeve, identical to the cover on the water hoses from Rotax. Get
>Thermo Sleeve from Summit Racing www.summitracing.com. P/n THE-14010 and
>THE-14015 little stuff for oil hoses, larger stuff for water hoses.
>
>Jim & Heather A185
>
>
>
>
Jim,
Thanks for the great information. Products ordered and on the way...
--
Rocketman - RM Holsters: http://www.rmholsters.com
FAL Gal Concealment Goods: http://www.falgal.com
Ballistic Review: http://www.ballisticreview.com
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
EZ Trim fans
I built my unit from the board Steve D had made. It was fun and easy to do.
I am flying with the first release of code. There was quite a learning
curve to get it adjusted so it flies my Europa. I have it working nicely
now.
The two adjustments control duration of servo motor run time and the delay
between motor runs. The code makes the motor run in the adjusting direction
then delays and then runes the motor again in the opposite direction half a
much. ( at least that is how I figure it is working )
I am happy with the sensitivity of the unit. It responds very quickly. I
have not used it a great deal as yet though.
Just my thought !
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Holland" <gnholland(at)onetel.com>
Subject: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold
>
> Hi!
>
> Whilst waiting to lose weight for Mod 70 I decided to do something
> constructive.....well maybe!
>
> I=B9ve assembled the EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold Module that was talked over a
> couple of years ago and after classic errors in polarity of capacitors and
> diodes have a Unit that no longer self destructs. It=B9s now time to
> upload
> the Basic programme but I have Comm errors.
>
> I=B9ve connected the programming port to BS2 pins 1 to 4 via D9 socket.
>
> Some questions:
>
> Should I get any indication on Unit that it is really alive? (Volts all
> present)
>
> Any peculiarities regarding the Programme Port handshaking?
>
> Is anyone using the Unit and is it worth the trouble in a Europa?
>
> Many Thanks
>
> Gerry
>
> Europa 384 G-FIZY
> Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
> Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
> PSS AoA Fitted.
>
> http://www.g-fizy.com
> Mobile: +44 7808 402404
> WebFax: +44 870 7059985
> gnholland(at)onetel.com
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
Mike
YES YES YES YES
I will be at Arlington again this year. We will again orginise a dinnner
for all interested in Europa. It will be done differently though. Bob is not
going to host it and I do not have a project to have every one come see, so
I am not sure how we will work it. Some thing will work out. Stay tuned for
the details.
Every one, do plan on coming to the fly-in !! Arlington is the
"friendlyest" !!!!! http://www.nweaa.org/
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: <DuaneFamly(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Top On!
>
> Cliff,
>
> I just looked at the top panel for the wing and realized what they are
> going
> for with the foam core. Now I understand the concept.
>
> As a side note, are you going to be at Arlington this year? My wife and I
> are doing a loop trip up through Oregon, Washington, Canada, Idaho,
> Montana,
> Utah, Nevada, and back to Calif. So we decided (I decided, she'll come
> along) to
> stay at Arlington for the whole show. I hope to see a few Europas while
> there.
>
> Mike Duane A207
> Redding, California
> XS Conventional Gear
> Top On! Now going forward by working in the aft portion of the fuselage.
> I am so glad I built that shelf behind the BB bulkhead.
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
> EZ Trim fans
Thanks Cliff for your report.
I'll persevere.
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "karelvranken" <karelvranken(at)hotmail.com> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder stops |
Dear Raimo,
If you move the rudder an equal 30 out of the center line to both sides,
than you have a bigger surface exposed to the airstream at the starboard
side. Interesting to calculate and more than that is to consider what effect
the slipstream and torque of the propeller have in this matter!
Some thoughts for long winterevenings I think.
Best greetings,
Karel Vranken # 447 F-PKRL waiting to execute mod 70.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: rudder stops
>
> Hi All!
>
> I have got plenty of great answers
> from almost all the continents - I
> thank all of you. Also, now I know
> there must be Europas flying equipped
> with all sorts of different rudder travels
>
> I noticed about 50% think rudder travel
> should be measured from the centerline
> and rest of the Europa-people think it
> should measured via line from the hinge-line
> to the trailing edge.
>
> Some people think it is good when "enough".
>
> I think the rudder movement should be
> symmetrical for aircraft centerline and that is
> why it is better to imagine the hinge-line is
> in center.
>
> This is an interesting dilemma.
> Please some public conversation more!
> Neville - tell us the truth!
>
> Many thanks for all of you,
> Raimo
>
> Raimo M W Toivio
>
> OH-XRT #417
> OH-CVK
> OH-BLL
>
> 37500 Lempaala
> Finland
> tel + 358 3 3753 777
> fax + 358 3 3753 100
> gsm + 358 40 590 1450
>
> raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi
> www.rwm.fi
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "N55XS" <topglock(at)cox.net>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: rudder stops
>
>
> >
> > Raimo,
> > I don't know about perfect, but here's what I did. I took a 2x4 and
> > stapled a piece of cardboard to it, then drew a line down the center.
> > Using a protractor, I drew lines, each side, tangent to the center line,
> > at 30 and 32 degrees. I then positioned the 2x4 under the aft end of
> > the fuse, arranging the gizmo so that the board ran the center line of
> > the fuse and the line intersections at the rudder hinge area. Swung the
> > rudder each way and added the stops. Pretty simple, in application...
> >
> > --
> > Jeff - A055
> > Finishing engine installation
> > Waiting on a prop
> > Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Ellison" <craig.ellison2(at)verizon.net> |
Mike,
While you're in Oregon please stop and visit . I'm based at Lenhardt's 7S9,
a great little airstrip to visit. I live in Silverton just south about 10
mi. If we're around we have a guest bed in the basement and would love to
have you stay for a night and home cooked meal. I and my son will as usual
be going up to Arlington for the Fly-in.
craig ellison
A205
----- Original Message -----
From: <DuaneFamly(at)aol.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Top On!
>
> Cliff,
>
> I just looked at the top panel for the wing and realized what they are
> going
> for with the foam core. Now I understand the concept.
>
> As a side note, are you going to be at Arlington this year? My wife and I
> are doing a loop trip up through Oregon, Washington, Canada, Idaho,
> Montana,
> Utah, Nevada, and back to Calif. So we decided (I decided, she'll come
> along) to
> stay at Arlington for the whole show. I hope to see a few Europas while
> there.
>
> Mike Duane A207
> Redding, California
> XS Conventional Gear
> Top On! Now going forward by working in the aft portion of the fuselage.
> I am so glad I built that shelf behind the BB bulkhead.
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Craig Ellison" <craig.ellison2(at)verizon.net> |
All,
Anyone out there using Bob Nuckolls Z-16 Rotax 914 wiring scheme?
I am using diagram Z-16 with OV unit supplied by B&C Specialty products. My
question is this: when wiring in the ammeter , where in this scheme would
you place it. The directions with the UMA unit say to place the shunt
between the voltage reg and the + side of the battery.
Thanks in advance for any and all responses.
craig ellison
a205
working on FWF
----- Original Message -----
From: "davebuzz" <davebuzz(at)aol.com>
Subject: Europa-List: Mod 70 Club view
>
> Some of you may be interested in the Club's view of Mod70. You can find
> this
> at:
>
> http://www.europaclub.org.uk/ in the 'News' pages.
>
> I realise it may not be what you wanted to hear, but in view of the seven
> complaints I received, plus a small number relayed through the Committee
> and
> noted on the list, we have certainly put some time into it, and I believe
> the Mod does the job in replacing what it does.
>
> It has been interesting to note a couple of comments on the list in
> favour
> of the Mod, and for us UK owners, I think we are lucky not to be in the
> position of those Shadow Microlight owners, who were grounded for months
> due
> to undercarriage problems and no one to support them. At least we have a
> Factory to support our plane.
>
> If anyone wishes to pursue this further, and perhaps requires a PFA mod
> number for the fitting of turnbuckles, then you can use mine:
> <<
> G-BXUM, kit67, PFA 247-12611, 'Additional cable Turnbuckles', Mod: M10028,
> dated April 1997: Turnbuckles in both TP18 cables, Bolted at the front
> onto
> the lugs with castle nuts and split pins.
>>>
> If this is you configuration then feel free to use it as a reference.
>
> All the best,
> dave
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
| From: | Matthew Carpenter <europaxs(at)gmail.com> |
Hello all,
I already have a nice AutoPilot installed, but does not support Altitude
Hold (well it can for an extra 1000.00$).
If I build one of these EZ trim, would I need to install a new servo? I
have a trim servo and its LEDs, and switch all working
great. Can the EZ trim also use the same servo? And use the already
built in switch as a manual override?
Thanks,
Matt Carpenter
A138
Amarillo Texas
N138WJ
Gerry Holland wrote:
>
>
>
>>EZ Trim fans
>>
>>
>
>Thanks Cliff for your report.
>
>I'll persevere.
>
>Regards
>
>Gerry
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ammeter wiring |
Craig
You want to read the current that your systems are using. It will go in
series in the line the supplies the main bus.
I just looked a Z-16, it shows the shunt in the line supplying the Bus after
the crowbar / OV device.
Good luck.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Craig Ellison" <craig.ellison2(at)verizon.net>
Subject: Europa-List: ammeter wiring
>
>
> All,
> Anyone out there using Bob Nuckolls Z-16 Rotax 914 wiring scheme?
> I am using diagram Z-16 with OV unit supplied by B&C Specialty products.
> My
> question is this: when wiring in the ammeter , where in this scheme would
> you place it. The directions with the UMA unit say to place the shunt
> between the voltage reg and the + side of the battery.
>
> Thanks in advance for any and all responses.
>
> craig ellison
> a205
> working on FWF
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "davebuzz" <davebuzz(at)aol.com>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Mod 70 Club view
>
>
>>
>> Some of you may be interested in the Club's view of Mod70. You can find
>> this
>> at:
>>
>> http://www.europaclub.org.uk/ in the 'News' pages.
>>
>> I realise it may not be what you wanted to hear, but in view of the
>> seven
>> complaints I received, plus a small number relayed through the Committee
>> and
>> noted on the list, we have certainly put some time into it, and I believe
>> the Mod does the job in replacing what it does.
>>
>> It has been interesting to note a couple of comments on the list in
>> favour
>> of the Mod, and for us UK owners, I think we are lucky not to be in the
>> position of those Shadow Microlight owners, who were grounded for months
>> due
>> to undercarriage problems and no one to support them. At least we have a
>> Factory to support our plane.
>>
>> If anyone wishes to pursue this further, and perhaps requires a PFA mod
>> number for the fitting of turnbuckles, then you can use mine:
>> <<
>> G-BXUM, kit67, PFA 247-12611, 'Additional cable Turnbuckles', Mod:
>> M10028,
>> dated April 1997: Turnbuckles in both TP18 cables, Bolted at the front
>> onto
>> the lugs with castle nuts and split pins.
>>>>
>> If this is you configuration then feel free to use it as a reference.
>>
>> All the best,
>> dave
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
Matt
Yes
That is how it works. That is one of the things that made me decide to use
it. I did not have to add another device to the elevator system.
I have a relay board so the control stick and the EZ Trim operate the relays
and the relays run the motor in the servo. This is required if you install
the EZ Trim . It's output is made to energies relays.
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
( I should be doing something rather than sitting her righting Email)
> Hello all,
>
> I already have a nice AutoPilot installed, but does not support Altitude
> Hold (well it can for an extra 1000.00$).
> If I build one of these EZ trim, would I need to install a new servo? I
> have a trim servo and its LEDs, and switch all working
> great. Can the EZ trim also use the same servo? And use the already
> built in switch as a manual override?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matt Carpenter
> A138
> Amarillo Texas
> N138WJ
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi> |
| Subject: | Re: rudder stops |
I got yesterday a tip to look for
Europa News #39 page 14
and heureka there it was:
The perfect but human way to check
rudder travel. I completed it at once
and it took only 5 minutes to do the job.
I know accurately my rudder movings,
they are about symmetrical and am
happy enough now.
I recommed this Andys simple but
effective method for everyone.
Raimo
Raimo M W Toivio
OH-XRT #417, 1047 hours so far
OH-CVK
OH-BLL
37500 Lempaala
Finland
tel + 358 3 3753 777
fax + 358 3 3753 100
gsm + 358 40 590 1450
raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi
www.rwm.fi
----- Original Message -----
From: "karelvranken" <karelvranken(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: rudder stops
>
> Dear Raimo,
> If you move the rudder an equal 30 out of the center line to both sides,
> than you have a bigger surface exposed to the airstream at the starboard
> side. Interesting to calculate and more than that is to consider what effect
> the slipstream and torque of the propeller have in this matter!
> Some thoughts for long winterevenings I think.
> Best greetings,
> Karel Vranken # 447 F-PKRL waiting to execute mod 70.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: rudder stops
>
>
> >
> > Hi All!
> >
> > I have got plenty of great answers
> > from almost all the continents - I
> > thank all of you. Also, now I know
> > there must be Europas flying equipped
> > with all sorts of different rudder travels
> >
> > I noticed about 50% think rudder travel
> > should be measured from the centerline
> > and rest of the Europa-people think it
> > should measured via line from the hinge-line
> > to the trailing edge.
> >
> > Some people think it is good when "enough".
> >
> > I think the rudder movement should be
> > symmetrical for aircraft centerline and that is
> > why it is better to imagine the hinge-line is
> > in center.
> >
> > This is an interesting dilemma.
> > Please some public conversation more!
> > Neville - tell us the truth!
> >
> > Many thanks for all of you,
> > Raimo
> >
> > Raimo M W Toivio
> >
> > OH-XRT #417
> > OH-CVK
> > OH-BLL
> >
> > 37500 Lempaala
> > Finland
> > tel + 358 3 3753 777
> > fax + 358 3 3753 100
> > gsm + 358 40 590 1450
> >
> > raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi
> > www.rwm.fi
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "N55XS" <topglock(at)cox.net>
> > To:
> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: rudder stops
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Raimo,
> > > I don't know about perfect, but here's what I did. I took a 2x4 and
> > > stapled a piece of cardboard to it, then drew a line down the center.
> > > Using a protractor, I drew lines, each side, tangent to the center line,
> > > at 30 and 32 degrees. I then positioned the 2x4 under the aft end of
> > > the fuse, arranging the gizmo so that the board ran the center line of
> > > the fuse and the line intersections at the rudder hinge area. Swung the
> > > rudder each way and added the stops. Pretty simple, in application...
> > >
> > > --
> > > Jeff - A055
> > > Finishing engine installation
> > > Waiting on a prop
> > > Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Fred Fillinger" <n3eu(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: ammeter wiring |
>
> ...The directions with the UMA unit say to place the shunt
> between the voltage reg and the + side of the battery.
>
That will tell you whether the battery is being charged, but some may
prefer reading only total load on the bus. However, reading the
latter will not tell you if the battery is discharging because of too
much load vs. RPM. This can be dangerous for IFR at night in
instrument conditions, so I believe reading current in/out of the
battery is the common case in production planes.
In reading system load, even for just day VFR, you may never know when
the day will come the engine won't start at some little airport where
the facilities are closed. Although adding a voltmeter will tell us
something, but that requires interpretation since the voltage reading
can be a function of battery charge condition at any point in time.
Reg,
Fred F.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Stewart <europa(at)pstewart.f2s.com> |
A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'. I have small areas
which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a variety of ploys to
get rid of them:
1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still there
2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they are still there
3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass and starting again -
they are still there
What is particularly irritating is that most of the surface is fantastic
- only small localised areas are affected. Having now spent about 4
months filling and sanding the tail planes alone, the local asylum is
looking more inviting than the work shop. Any suggestions?
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net> |
>got the top on successfully.
>Now I come home, start going through the 300+ Europa Forum emails and see
>this Mod 70 thing pop up! Might I suggest to the powers that be, that if
>something like this is in the pipeline, maybe put out an advisory
>about the nature
>of the problem while you are still working on it so that people can adjust
>their schedule, or not, with this in mind.
Mike - I don't think I have any powers, but I did make a posting
about this some time ago:
>Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 12:00:07 +0000
>To: Europa e-mail list
>From: Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net>
>Subject: Europa-List: fitting the fuselage top
>
>
>I've just received the latest copy of the CAA Safety Investigation
>and Data Department Occurence Listing, which reports the failure of a
>Europa mass balance arm rod end during taxi.
>
>This could have spoiled someone's whole day if it had occurred during flight.
>
>I expect there will be some sort of fix recommended (or even
>mandated) for this.
>
>I note some folk recently asking questions like "what should I do
>before sticking the top on?". If you can afford to wait until
>whatever fix is announced before you bond the fuselage top on, you
>might save yourself a lot of uncomfortable wriggling later.
>
>regards
>
>Rowland
>--
>
>| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
>| 740 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
There were several follow-up messages from various people.
Sorry if you didn't notice this at the time.
regards
Rowland
PS yes, the signature lines are correct - I have only managed 10
hours building since then :-(
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
| 750 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
Rowland,
Mia Culpa. My Bad. My really big Bad! I guess it's my fault that I didn't
pickup on the very type of post that I asked for. So I guess I'll just swallow
my pride and get on to fixing it.
Thanks for the heads up.
Mike
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Through the firewall |
Thanks gentlemen. Food for thought and very useful seeing how others meet
the challenge.
Mike
XS 440 mono
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Stephan Cassel" <cassel(at)sensewave.com> |
Hi Paul,
When I did the tail plane I used Hibuild primer from SP System +
expancel, not too much just a small portion and a thin steal squeezer.
All pin hole was removed in no time. I did this between primer layers. I
will get rid of
all pin holes before the first primer layer on flaps/aileron/rudder.
If this works with superfil I do not know but with the epoxy/expancel
mixture it works perfect
Hope you get rid of your pin holes.
Stephan.
Engine and instrument panel stage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Stewart
Subject: Europa-List: pin holes
A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'. I have small areas
which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a variety of ploys to
get rid of them:
1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still there
2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they are still there
3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass and starting again -
they are still there
What is particularly irritating is that most of the surface is fantastic
- only small localised areas are affected. Having now spent about 4
months filling and sanding the tail planes alone, the local asylum is
looking more inviting than the work shop. Any suggestions?
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Boulet <possibletodo(at)YAHOO.COM> |
FWIW I had about 60-70 hours into filling and sanding
the tailplanes- they still are not perfect. I used a
primer after I was satisfied and that filled the
pinholes. don't ask me the brand of primer....it was
one they use at Phoenix Composites.
Paul Boulet, N914PB
"Plane in test flight stage"
--- Paul Stewart wrote:
>
>
> A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'.
> I have small areas
> which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a
> variety of ploys to
> get rid of them:
>
> 1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still
> there
>
> 2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they
> are still there
>
> 3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass
> and starting again -
> they are still there
>
> What is particularly irritating is that most of the
> surface is fantastic
> - only small localised areas are affected. Having
> now spent about 4
> months filling and sanding the tail planes alone,
> the local asylum is
> looking more inviting than the work shop. Any
> suggestions?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
>
> G-GIDY
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Garry" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
Since I am electronically "challenged", is there any manufacturer out there
who makes an auto pilot altitude hold, with a bolt-on, right out of the box
product? I don't want to have to fiddle with reprogramming the software or
rewiring the circuit boards. I take it the EZ-Trim isn't for me?
Garry Stout
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold
>
> Matt
>
> Yes
>
> That is how it works. That is one of the things that made me decide to use
> it. I did not have to add another device to the elevator system.
>
> I have a relay board so the control stick and the EZ Trim operate the
> relays
> and the relays run the motor in the servo. This is required if you
> install
> the EZ Trim . It's output is made to energies relays.
>
> Cliff Shaw
> 1041 Euclid ave.
> Edmonds, WA 98020
> 425 776 5555
> http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
>
> ( I should be doing something rather than sitting her righting Email)
>
>> Hello all,
>>
>> I already have a nice AutoPilot installed, but does not support Altitude
>> Hold (well it can for an extra 1000.00$).
>> If I build one of these EZ trim, would I need to install a new servo? I
>> have a trim servo and its LEDs, and switch all working
>> great. Can the EZ trim also use the same servo? And use the already
>> built in switch as a manual override?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Matt Carpenter
>> A138
>> Amarillo Texas
>> N138WJ
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net> |
Paul Stewart wrote:
>
>A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'. I have small areas
>which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a variety of ploys to
>get rid of them:
>
>1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still there
>
>2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they are still there
>
>3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass and starting again -
>they are still there
>
>What is particularly irritating is that most of the surface is fantastic
>- only small localised areas are affected. Having now spent about 4
>months filling and sanding the tail planes alone, the local asylum is
>looking more inviting than the work shop. Any suggestions?
>
>Regards
>
>Paul
>
>G-GIDY
>
>
>
Paul,
I had much the same turmoil, when priming my wings. My solution was to
dab in a little primer with a toothpick. Took forever, but did the job...
--
Rocketman -
RM Holsters: http://www.rmholsters.com
FAL Gal Concealment Goods: http://www.falgal.com
Ballistic Review: http://www.ballisticreview.com
Aircraft Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
--
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net> |
Hi Paul,
I too used the epoxy & expancel that came with the kit. I had a lot of
pinholes and used high build primer from PPG called K38. It filled most
of them once I blocked sanded the primer down. What ever remaining ones
left I hit with some thinly mixed expancel and it finished them off.
Another shot of primer then re-sanded with 300 to 400 grit and the
primer looks almost as good as a finish. I've been told the better the
preparation the less paint used and the better the finished paint will
look. All pinholes are gone but not without a lot of effort. Keep at
it, you'll be rewarded with a finish that blows the riveted metal plane
away.
Jeff
A258
Still waiting for the best painter in Tennessee to get freed up!
On May 11, 2005, at 4:11 PM, Stephan Cassel wrote:
>
>
> Hi Paul,
>
> When I did the tail plane I used Hibuild primer from SP System +
> expancel, not too much just a small portion and a thin steal squeezer.
> All pin hole was removed in no time. I did this between primer layers.
> I
> will get rid of
> all pin holes before the first primer layer on flaps/aileron/rudder.
>
> If this works with superfil I do not know but with the epoxy/expancel
> mixture it works perfect
>
> Hope you get rid of your pin holes.
>
> Stephan.
> Engine and instrument panel stage
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul
> Stewart
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: pin holes
>
>
>
> A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'. I have small
> areas
>
> which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a variety of ploys to
> get rid of them:
>
> 1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still there
>
> 2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they are still there
>
> 3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass and starting again
> -
>
> they are still there
>
> What is particularly irritating is that most of the surface is
> fantastic
>
> - only small localised areas are affected. Having now spent about 4
> months filling and sanding the tail planes alone, the local asylum is
> looking more inviting than the work shop. Any suggestions?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
>
> G-GIDY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | SPurpura(at)aol.com |
IF YOU ARE USING THE SUPERFILL FINISHING SYSTEM,THEN USE THEIR
SUPERPRIME AS IT WILL FILL THOSE PIN HOLES IF YOU
ROLL ON PER INSTRUCTIONS. IT WORKED GREAT FOR ME.
SAM N77EU
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steve Hagar" <hagargs(at)earthlink.net> |
I used the smoothe prime over the superfill by rolling then spraying
thinned smoothe prime over the sanded base. The resulting surface
couldn't be better.
Steve Hagar
A143
Mesa, AZ
Steve Hagar
hagargs(at)earthlink.net
> [Original Message]
> From: Paul Stewart <europa(at)pstewart.f2s.com>
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Date: 5/11/2005 11:56:32 AM
> Subject: Europa-List: pin holes
>
>
> A plea for help from anyone who has used 'Superfil'. I have small areas
> which are riddled with pin holes and have tried a variety of ploys to
> get rid of them:
>
> 1. Filling them with more superfil - they are still there
>
> 2. Using a brushing pin hole filler (Aerodur) - they are still there
>
> 3. Taking all the affected filler back to the glass and starting again -
> they are still there
>
> What is particularly irritating is that most of the surface is fantastic
> - only small localised areas are affected. Having now spent about 4
> months filling and sanding the tail planes alone, the local asylum is
> looking more inviting than the work shop. Any suggestions?
>
> Regards
>
> Paul
>
> G-GIDY
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Garry Hi!
> Since I am electronically "challenged", is there any manufacturer out there
> who makes an auto pilot altitude hold, with a bolt-on, right out of the box
> product?
Yes and No. The simplicity of the EZ-TRIM approach is that the little box of
electronics controls or tries to hold the height through TRIM Circuit after
pressing a button to hold the altitude at that moment. TruTrak and others
make a great Altitude hold but it needs a Servo added to Tailplane mechanics
and costs about $1800.
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsproducts.html#Altrak
I believe TRIO Systems are also about to start delivery same sort of thing.
Again about $1800. Try: http://www.trioavionics.com/alt_hold.htm
The EZ-TRIM costs $100 and perspiration!
> I don't want to have to fiddle with reprogramming the software or
> rewiring the circuit boards. I take it the EZ-Trim isn't for me?
The EZ-TRIM could be for you if you can get hold of Circuit Board. The
soldering of components needs care and the hardest problem for me was simply
eyesight limited by declining years. Magnifying glass a must! As for the
programming. It's an easy task as the Programme is available and just needs
uploading to Circuit board through a serial port from a programme running on
your PC or Mac. Cliff commented that getting it set up correctly needs a
little effort but we are building a Europa...... that has been challenging a
few times!
Both the Trio and Trutrak look very capable products and with hindsight and
a later start on the build I would have chosen one of them as the Servo
could have been added easier.
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
Trigear with Rotax 912 and Arplast CS Prop.
Dynon EFIS, KMD 150, Icom A-200 and SL70 Transponder.
PSS AoA Fitted.
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | DuaneFamly(at)aol.com |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
Good Day All,
So how does one get a hold of an EZ Trim kit? Or schematic?
Mike Duane A207
Redding, California
XS Conventional Gear
Top On! Now going forward by working in the aft portion of the fuselage.
I am so glad I built that shelf behind the BB bulkhead.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Mike Hi!
I'll email you a Zip file with all the stuff you need including Files for
PCB separate from this list.
> So how does one get a hold of an EZ Trim kit? Or schematic?
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "ivor.phillips" <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
This web page give's a good deal of information about the EZ trim,
http://www.cas-cozy.nl/efis/EZTrim.html
Ivor Phillips
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold
>
> Hello all,
>
> I already have a nice AutoPilot installed, but does not support Altitude
> Hold (well it can for an extra 1000.00$).
> If I build one of these EZ trim, would I need to install a new servo? I
> have a trim servo and its LEDs, and switch all working
> great. Can the EZ trim also use the same servo? And use the already
> built in switch as a manual override?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matt Carpenter
> A138
> Amarillo Texas
> N138WJ
>
>
> Gerry Holland wrote:
>
>>
>>
>>
>>>EZ Trim fans
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Thanks Cliff for your report.
>>
>>I'll persevere.
>>
>>Regards
>>
>>Gerry
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
It was also featured as a warning in the last EF!
Regards
Peter Grant
10 The Sidings, Horncastle, Lincs LN9 5UA, UK
Tel: 01507 523180 Fax: 01507 525888 Mobile: 07774 923160
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
This email is intended for the sole use of the addressee. If you have
received this email in error, please contact the sender and
delete the message. I can accept no liability for misuse
of this email however caused. Outgoing emails are automatically scanned by
Norton Anti-Virus
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rowland Carson
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Top On!
>got the top on successfully.
>Now I come home, start going through the 300+ Europa Forum emails and see
>this Mod 70 thing pop up! Might I suggest to the powers that be, that if
>something like this is in the pipeline, maybe put out an advisory
>about the nature
>of the problem while you are still working on it so that people can
adjust
>their schedule, or not, with this in mind.
Mike - I don't think I have any powers, but I did make a posting
about this some time ago:
>Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 12:00:07 +0000
>To: Europa e-mail list
>From: Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net>
>Subject: Europa-List: fitting the fuselage top
>
>
>I've just received the latest copy of the CAA Safety Investigation
>and Data Department Occurence Listing, which reports the failure of a
>Europa mass balance arm rod end during taxi.
>
>This could have spoiled someone's whole day if it had occurred during
flight.
>
>I expect there will be some sort of fix recommended (or even
>mandated) for this.
>
>I note some folk recently asking questions like "what should I do
>before sticking the top on?". If you can afford to wait until
>whatever fix is announced before you bond the fuselage top on, you
>might save yourself a lot of uncomfortable wriggling later.
>
>regards
>
>Rowland
>--
>
>| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
>| 740 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
There were several follow-up messages from various people.
Sorry if you didn't notice this at the time.
regards
Rowland
PS yes, the signature lines are correct - I have only managed 10
hours building since then :-(
--
| Rowland Carson PFA #16532 <http://home.clara.net/rowil/aviation/>
| 750 hours building Europa #435 G-ROWI e-mail
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | rlborger <rlborger(at)mac.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
Gerry,
Would you please post that .zip file on the Europa Owners site (
http://www.europaowners.org/ ) so it is available to all??
Thanks!
Good building and great flying,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
(80%) tail kit done, wings closed, cockpit module installed, pitch
system in, landing gear frame in, rudder system in, outrigger mod in,
Fuselage Top on, lift/drag/flap pins in, wing incidence set, tie bar
in, flap drive in. Working in - 24 Instrument Panel, 25 Electrical, 28
Flaps, 29 Main Gear, 30 Fuel System, 32 Tail, 34 Door Latches & 35
Doors, 37 Finishing. Preparing ROTAX 914 for installation.
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
Home: 940-497-2123
Cel: 817-992-1117
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
there is a group of guys who are based in the netherlands (I think) who will sell
you a ready built unit (about 400 Euros), a kit for about 300 euros or the
board for about 70 euros.
http://www.cas-cozy.nl/efis/EZTrim.html
Looks like they've done some worthwhile work to the design to combine the electronics
and relays into one unit and made some code changes.
The board sounds quite expensive compared to what I'm used to paying for PCBs but
they have to make a few bucks to cover the work they've put in. I'd go for
the bare board and solder the bits on - nothing too tricky there - just pick up
the Farnell catalogue.
Peter
>
> From: Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com>
> Date: 2005/05/12 Thu AM 07:38:47 GMT
> To:
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold
>
>
> Mike Hi!
>
> I'll email you a Zip file with all the stuff you need including Files for
> PCB separate from this list.
>
> > So how does one get a hold of an EZ Trim kit? Or schematic?
>
> Regards
>
> Gerry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------
Email sent from www.ntlworld.com
virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software
visit www.ntlworld.com/security for more information
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | EuropaForum <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
The Links to the two Ez-Trim sites are on the EuropaOwners Links page:
http://www.europaowners.org/links.php
under vendors. I've add links that I found of interest over the years.
If you have any links you would like to add, just click add link and
fill in the boxes.
The link will appear after I approve it, for reasons of spam control.
Ordering the boards was easy. The lower the number the more they cost
each.
I think I ordered 20 and sold on the list at cost, They all were sold
in an hour
so if anyone is thinking of making an order they go fast.
I looked at the design at http://www.cas-cozy.nl/efis/EZTrim.html I
didn't like it and thought it was to expensive also.
Someone on the list said they were no longer available, so It's a
mute point anyway.
I've add the Ez-trim Zip download file to EuropaOwners.
http://www.europaowners.org/viewtopic.php?p=6023#6023
it is also available on the Ez-trim page
http://hometown.aol.com/ccady/eztrim.htm
Having the files on the Owners page is just incase the Ez-trim home
page goes away.
Chat later,
Steved
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
> there is a group of guys who are based in the netherlands (I think) who will
> sell you a ready built unit (about 400 Euros), a kit for about 300 euros or
> the board for about 70 euros.
>
> http://www.cas-cozy.nl/efis/EZTrim.html
Not any more!
Still some useful information on the site though.
Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | Paul Stewart <europa(at)pstewart.f2s.com> |
Thanks to all who replied - many useful tips - even knowing there have
been others is helpful.
Regards
Paul
G-GIDY
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
If enough people are interested in the EZ-Trim (and if I'm not treading on
anyones toes), I would be happy to approach some of the board suppliers I
use at work to get some boards made (the ones you can make at home really
aren't of a standard you should use on an aircraft.
I might at a push even assemble a couple of units for those who are
'electronically challenged'
If anyone is interested, drop me an E-mail - I guess we would need to order
a minimum of 6 boards but the more we can order, the cheaper they'll be.
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
| From: | Matthew Carpenter <europaxs(at)gmail.com> |
You can count me in.
Then all I need is a "for sure" list of parts to order. I read several
different part lists.
Matt Carpenter
Peter Rees wrote:
>
>If enough people are interested in the EZ-Trim (and if I'm not treading on
>anyones toes), I would be happy to approach some of the board suppliers I
>use at work to get some boards made (the ones you can make at home really
>aren't of a standard you should use on an aircraft.
>
>I might at a push even assemble a couple of units for those who are
>'electronically challenged'
>
>If anyone is interested, drop me an E-mail - I guess we would need to order
>a minimum of 6 boards but the more we can order, the cheaper they'll be.
>
>Peter
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
Dear Peter
I have only just picked up on this possibility and the idea seems fantastic.
After flying gliders I am going to find it tedious to hold altitudes in
power flying and, like the EIS's available we ought to be able to automate
holding altitude.
I am certainly interested in the idea but have not done electronic work
myself.
Approximately how much are boards likely to cost?
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Australia and want to fit MOd 70 before
bonding top on
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB
>
> If enough people are interested in the EZ-Trim (and if I'm not treading on
> anyones toes), I would be happy to approach some of the board suppliers I
> use at work to get some boards made (the ones you can make at home really
> aren't of a standard you should use on an aircraft.
>
> I might at a push even assemble a couple of units for those who are
> 'electronically challenged'
>
> If anyone is interested, drop me an E-mail - I guess we would need to
order
> a minimum of 6 boards but the more we can order, the cheaper they'll be.
>
> Peter
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
Peter,
I am defiantly interested in the PCB. Count me in as being interested.
Michael Grass
A266 Trigear
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB
>
>
> If enough people are interested in the EZ-Trim (and if I'm not treading on
> anyones toes), I would be happy to approach some of the board suppliers I
> use at work to get some boards made (the ones you can make at home really
> aren't of a standard you should use on an aircraft.
>
> I might at a push even assemble a couple of units for those who are
> 'electronically challenged'
>
> If anyone is interested, drop me an E-mail - I guess we would need to
> order
> a minimum of 6 boards but the more we can order, the cheaper they'll be.
>
> Peter
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <ken(at)striblingranch.com> |
| Subject: | EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
Hi Pete: I would also like to be included But if you could buy the
components and put it in kit form that would be even better, You may
even get a better break say buying 10 at a time, I may be interested in
3 kits myself.
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Rees
Subject: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB
If enough people are interested in the EZ-Trim (and if I'm not treading
on
anyones toes), I would be happy to approach some of the board suppliers
I
use at work to get some boards made (the ones you can make at home
really
aren't of a standard you should use on an aircraft.
I might at a push even assemble a couple of units for those who are
'electronically challenged'
If anyone is interested, drop me an E-mail - I guess we would need to
order
a minimum of 6 boards but the more we can order, the cheaper they'll be.
Peter
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
Hi Michael
I've had a quick look at the pcb file and downloaded the design software.
The board looks pretty amateurish (and doesn't include the relays to switch
the trim motor) - I may re-lay the board myslef (using the software I use at
work) to give a much better quality of board - the current one doesn't have
a solder mask or ident - very necessary for those with little soldering
experience.
I'll get a price for the 'as is' board and tell people this and the revised
version (including the relays).
We seem to be there with the quantity so, I'll give my manufacturer a call.
Would you be after a bare board, kit or assembled unit?
Regards
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Grass" <M.Grass(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB
>
> Peter,
>
> I am defiantly interested in the PCB. Count me in as being interested.
>
> Michael Grass
> A266 Trigear
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB
>
>
>>
>>
>> If enough people are interested in the EZ-Trim (and if I'm not treading
>> on
>> anyones toes), I would be happy to approach some of the board suppliers I
>> use at work to get some boards made (the ones you can make at home really
>> aren't of a standard you should use on an aircraft.
>>
>> I might at a push even assemble a couple of units for those who are
>> 'electronically challenged'
>>
>> If anyone is interested, drop me an E-mail - I guess we would need to
>> order
>> a minimum of 6 boards but the more we can order, the cheaper they'll be.
>>
>> Peter
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
Hi Bob
Still waiting to find out how many boards are going to be required and what
stage of build people would want them - bare board, kit or tested.
When I know, I'll be able to get a price from a low volume manufacturer -
off the top of my head, the bare board will be about 20 - though thats a
total (but reasonably educated guess) - main problem is that you need to
recover the tooling costs - photoplots.
The board from the original designer looks very crude (it has no solder mask
or ident) and doesn't accomondate the relays (which the europa needs to
switch the trim motor) - I may re-design the board and include the relays -
would you be intersted in this? Would you rather a built and tested unit?
Regards
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB
>
> Dear Peter
>
> I have only just picked up on this possibility and the idea seems
> fantastic.
> After flying gliders I am going to find it tedious to hold altitudes in
> power flying and, like the EIS's available we ought to be able to automate
> holding altitude.
>
> I am certainly interested in the idea but have not done electronic work
> myself.
>
> Approximately how much are boards likely to cost?
>
> J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 in Australia and want to fit MOd 70 before
> bonding top on
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com>
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB
>
>
>
>>
>> If enough people are interested in the EZ-Trim (and if I'm not treading
>> on
>> anyones toes), I would be happy to approach some of the board suppliers I
>> use at work to get some boards made (the ones you can make at home really
>> aren't of a standard you should use on an aircraft.
>>
>> I might at a push even assemble a couple of units for those who are
>> 'electronically challenged'
>>
>> If anyone is interested, drop me an E-mail - I guess we would need to
> order
>> a minimum of 6 boards but the more we can order, the cheaper they'll be.
>>
>> Peter
>>
>>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Peter Rees" <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
Hi Ken
I've had a quick look at the pcb file and downloaded the design software.
The board looks pretty amateurish (and doesn't include the relays to switch
the trim motor) - I may re-lay the board myslef (using the software I use at
work) to give a much better quality of board - the current one doesn't have
a solder mask or ident - very necessary for those with little soldering
experience.
I'll get a price for the 'as is' board and tell people this and the revised
version (including the relays).
We seem to be there with the quantity so, I'll give my manufacturer a call.
Would you be after a bare board, kit or assembled unit?
Regards
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Stribling" <ken(at)striblingranch.com>
Subject: RE: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB
>
>
> Hi Pete: I would also like to be included But if you could buy the
> components and put it in kit form that would be even better, You may
> even get a better break say buying 10 at a time, I may be interested in
> 3 kits myself.
>
> Ken
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Rees
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB
>
>
>
> If enough people are interested in the EZ-Trim (and if I'm not treading
> on
> anyones toes), I would be happy to approach some of the board suppliers
> I
> use at work to get some boards made (the ones you can make at home
> really
> aren't of a standard you should use on an aircraft.
>
> I might at a push even assemble a couple of units for those who are
> 'electronically challenged'
>
> If anyone is interested, drop me an E-mail - I guess we would need to
> order
> a minimum of 6 boards but the more we can order, the cheaper they'll be.
>
> Peter
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
| From: | "Jos Okhuijsen" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
Hi all,
Just to change the key of the song song and get some relativation. Hate to
do that, but i also feel kind of responsable if i did not say what i think
needs to be said. Apart from not liking the idea of "soldering iron
handicapped" fellow builders to work on flying controls with complications
they do not grasp, there are some facts to be considered.
On sun and fun i have been talking to almost every autopilot producer for
experimentals. Both digitrack and trio do a simple attitude hold. Both use
an extra servo. Both told me things i had not considered before. Both sell
for a price which is a multiple of the thing we are talking about here.
Why? Does the competition not work or?
Imho,
1: The ray allen trim motor is probably just good enough for trim. I
wonder if it has the reserves to fly the plane.
2: EZ-trim has had problems in the software, it is very difficult to get
the software working without hunting or undershooting. Once there is a
more or less stable situation, changes in the flying characteristics will
not readjust the adjusting cycles. That was the main reason the Dutch
abandoned the idea.
3: There is no insane command override other then the pilot. If, say
because somebody opens a vent, hence pressure increase, hence correction,
the plane ends up in a nose high attitude with 40 knots airspeed, it will
still try to pith up.
4: There is no cut out on turbulence, insane commands might follow.
Ok, let me have it
Jos Okhuijsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
<>
You asked for it.
But I agree.
In particular, the trim motor in the Europa works hard against the high
friction load in the anti servo tab drive system; I doubt that the trim
motor would have sufficient continuous-rating to keep up with that.
Try maintaining altitude by keeping throttle position fixed and "jabbing"
manually at the trim in proportion to the magnitude of indication on the
VSI; wouldn't work on mine (due mainly to delays introduced by loose
tolerances in the trim tab system).
Duncan McF.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jos Okhuijsen" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB
>
> Hi all,
> Just to change the key of the song song and get some relativation. Hate to
> do that, but i also feel kind of responsable if i did not say what i think
> needs to be said. Apart from not liking the idea of "soldering iron
> handicapped" fellow builders to work on flying controls with complications
> they do not grasp, there are some facts to be considered.
>
> On sun and fun i have been talking to almost every autopilot producer for
> experimentals. Both digitrack and trio do a simple attitude hold. Both use
> an extra servo. Both told me things i had not considered before. Both sell
> for a price which is a multiple of the thing we are talking about here.
> Why? Does the competition not work or?
> Imho,
> 1: The ray allen trim motor is probably just good enough for trim. I
> wonder if it has the reserves to fly the plane.
> 2: EZ-trim has had problems in the software, it is very difficult to get
> the software working without hunting or undershooting. Once there is a
> more or less stable situation, changes in the flying characteristics will
> not readjust the adjusting cycles. That was the main reason the Dutch
> abandoned the idea.
> 3: There is no insane command override other then the pilot. If, say
> because somebody opens a vent, hence pressure increase, hence correction,
> the plane ends up in a nose high attitude with 40 knots airspeed, it will
> still try to pith up.
> 4: There is no cut out on turbulence, insane commands might follow.
>
> Ok, let me have it
>
> Jos Okhuijsen
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
Jos & all,
A have a friend who built the EZ Trim for his RV6. After many months of
trying to get it stabilized he gave up. He ultimately scraped all of the
code, reworked the PID algorithm and added a solid state gyro in as an
outer control loop. It took him nearly a year of tuning the PID factors in
the altitude sensor and gyro to get it to work properly.
It now works really well and I am fooling around with the code at the
moment. Quite frankly I am expecting 6 months of experimenting / tuning to
make it work in my Europa. I am more than willing to share once I have it
figured out, but it is not easily transportable because it is based on a PIC
16F876 (not a STAMP) and you need the ability to be able to burn your own
microprocessors.
Paul
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
Steved
Exciting stuff, but I have not seen mentioned yet that part of the system .
the message about altitude changing must come from; is it the altimeter
(nothing electric there), the transponder encoder ? Is this an easy
connection?
J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 Australia, top itching to get into place.
----- Original Message -----
From: "EuropaForum" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold
>
> The Links to the two Ez-Trim sites are on the EuropaOwners Links page:
> http://www.europaowners.org/links.php
> under vendors. I've add links that I found of interest over the years.
> If you have any links you would like to add, just click add link and
> fill in the boxes.
> The link will appear after I approve it, for reasons of spam control.
>
> Ordering the boards was easy. The lower the number the more they cost
> each.
> I think I ordered 20 and sold on the list at cost, They all were sold
> in an hour
> so if anyone is thinking of making an order they go fast.
>
> I looked at the design at http://www.cas-cozy.nl/efis/EZTrim.html I
> didn't like it and thought it was to expensive also.
> Someone on the list said they were no longer available, so It's a
> mute point anyway.
>
> I've add the Ez-trim Zip download file to EuropaOwners.
> http://www.europaowners.org/viewtopic.php?p=6023#6023
> it is also available on the Ez-trim page
> http://hometown.aol.com/ccady/eztrim.htm
>
> Having the files on the Owners page is just incase the Ez-trim home
> page goes away.
>
> Chat later,
> Steved
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Paul McAllister" <paul.mcallister(at)qia.net> |
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold |
Bob,
The system uses an MPX4115 pressure transducer which should be connected to
the static system.
----- Original Message -----
From: "JR (Bob) Gowing" <gowingjr(at)acr.net.au>
> Steved
>
> Exciting stuff, but I have not seen mentioned yet that part of the system
> .
> the message about altitude changing must come from; is it the altimeter
> (nothing electric there), the transponder encoder ? Is this an easy
> connection?
>
> J R (Bob) Gowing, UK Kit 327 Australia, top itching to get into place.
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Ken Stribling" <ken(at)striblingranch.com> |
| Subject: | EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
>>>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Peter Rees
Subject: Re: Europa-List: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB
[-] >>>
Hi Ken
I've had a quick look at the pcb file and downloaded the design
software.
The board looks pretty amateurish (and doesn't include the relays to
switch
the trim motor) - I may re-lay the board myslef (using the software I
use at
work) to give a much better quality of board - the current one doesn't
have
a solder mask or ident - very necessary for those with little soldering
experience.
I'll get a price for the 'as is' board and tell people this and the
revised
version (including the relays).
We seem to be there with the quantity so, I'll give my manufacturer a
call.
Would you be after a bare board, kit or assembled unit?
Regards
Peter
[-]
3 kits please
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | DOTH - Saturday 14th May |
Weatherwise, the South and Southwest looks poor, so I suggest for those DOTHers
interested, we could meet at Caernarfon for lunch at about 12.00 for 12.30.
No free landing, but it is a good venue.
Best wishes,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Jos Hi!
> Ok, let me have it
NO! you'll have to put up with peaceful coexistence!
Your comments......all valid and taken notice of.
The interesting thing is that already amendments and modifications are being
produced for the device based on a small amount of operational use.
I tend to agree that the TRIM Motor is a dubious component in the system
especially if demand is made of it by frequently by EZ-TRIM adjustments.
At the time it was devised I think that only S-Tec had any sort of pitch
control that was affordable. Hence a privateer design to help Home built
activities.
It can be disabled easily if a nuisance and I've wired mine via DP PL/SK
arrangement so in fact it could be scrapped if not useful at all. My only
other fitment was the Matronics Governor unit that allows singular TRIM
selections from multiple switch sources and also has provision to adjust
TRIM speed. It could be that this will further complicate the EZ-TRIM setup
but it also may have the benefit of allow more accurate manual trim settings
to hold pitch attitude if EZ-TRIM abandoned. The standard pitch adjustment
speed is a little on the excessive side at faster speeds, especially in
cruise.
I'll watch this debate move forward and await with interest as to where it
will go.
The challenge of making it and getting it going is fun enough for me and it
may well end up as many of my other diversions whilst building the Europa...
extend the build time, deplete the bank account and bring a smile to those
others that are wiser or have been down that same road!!
Kind Regards
Gerry
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net> |
"William Mills"
| Subject: | Re: CORRECTION - DOTH - Sunday 15th May |
Sorry, there has been a misunderstanding. The proposal is for Sunday 15th May
- weather is likely to be better tomorrow. However, I will try to make it to
Beccles (free landing) today, (Saturday) if anyone is interested, otherwise see
you all tomorrow!
Best wishes,
William
----- Original Message -----
From: William Mills
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 8:04 AM
Subject: DOTH - Saturday 14th May
Weatherwise, the South and Southwest looks poor, so I suggest for those DOTHers
interested, we could meet at Caernarfon for lunch at about 12.00 for 12.30.
No free landing, but it is a good venue.
Best wishes,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Duncan McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk> |
| Subject: | Re: DOTH - Saturday 14th May |
Meaning tomorrow, Sunday 15th, when the wx should be more suited.
D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants(at)virgin.net>
Subject: Europa-List: DOTH - Saturday 14th May
>
> Weatherwise, the South and Southwest looks poor, so I suggest for those
DOTHers interested, we could meet at Caernarfon for lunch at about 12.00 for
12.30. No free landing, but it is a good venue.
> Best wishes,
> William
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: EZ-TRIM Altitude Hold PCB |
| From: | "Jos Okhuijsen" <josok-e(at)ukolo.fi> |
> The challenge of making it and getting it going is fun enough for me and
> it > may well end up as many of my other diversions whilst building the
> Europa...> extend the build time, deplete the bank account and bring a
> smile to those> others that are wiser or have been down that same road!!
That's the right attitude i guess. I would be willing to be actively
involved in a further development. I am quite experienced with a soldering
iron, and can do some programming and systems design as well. Can't do cb
design. Can't do anything mechanic.
First there should be a wish list. To start with that one:
There should be a health check at switch on for all critical components.
The output should be controlled by a second control loop including a
g-force sensor.
The output should be controlled by a third control loop including an
attitude sensor.
The system should contain a proper servo motor.
The servo motor should contain a control stick sensor, so that it will
free itself on manual override.
The servo motor should contain a sensor to determine trim errors, the
system should advise or be able to drive trim corrections.
As a possible addon i would like an airspeed sensor, and the system be
able to limit corrections on prededermined max and min airspeeds.
Who is willing to organize a development team?
Greetz,
Jos Okhuijsen
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Tony Bale" <tony.bale(at)virgin.net> |
| Subject: | Fw: G CCUL Temps and Fuel |
Fellow Europe types greetings,
We have at long last received our permit
and managed to get some flying in on UL, pretty impressed too !! Couple
of points some of you might be able to shed some light on if you please.
Firstly having thoroughly warmed the aircraft to 100 deg C both oil and water,
within minutes of take off both are back around 50 - 60 at 5000 RPM, any lower
revs and the guages hardly register, is this as others experience ? We are begining
to consider plans to restrict the air outlets from the radiators. The ambient
at ground level has been circa 11 - 13 deg C during these flights at between
2 - 3000 feet.
Secondly, considering fuel. Currently we simply use the cheap unleaded from Tesco's,
in my previous life racing cars we always mixed the unleaded with higher
grades and octanes, what do you guys run and have you noticed any improvements
in performance / economy / condition of oil following change / plugs etc ?
Any thoughts / experiences greatly received
Regards
Tony.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Re: CORRECTION - DOTH - Sunday 15th May |
Ahh a fly out at last...count me in, hope the food is good.
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of William
Mills
Subject: Europa-List: Re: CORRECTION - DOTH - Sunday 15th May
-->
Sorry, there has been a misunderstanding. The proposal is for Sunday
15th May - weather is likely to be better tomorrow. However, I will try
to make it to Beccles (free landing) today, (Saturday) if anyone is
interested, otherwise see you all tomorrow! Best wishes, William
----- Original Message -----
From: William Mills
To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, May 14, 2005 8:04 AM
Subject: DOTH - Saturday 14th May
Weatherwise, the South and Southwest looks poor, so I suggest for
those DOTHers interested, we could meet at Caernarfon for lunch at about
12.00 for 12.30. No free landing, but it is a good venue.
Best wishes,
William
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | tri gear trailers |
Does any one have photos/descriptions of how they tie down their trigear on its
closed/open trailer for travelling?
I have been wracking my brain to come up with a solution but I may be thinking
too hard and in the wrong direction.
I have looked in the archives but have drawn a blank.
Thanks in anticipation.
Steve Pitt #403
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net> |
Hello All,
I've created an area on EuropaOwners call Europa-Trim:
http://www.europaowners.org/viewforum.php?f=30
It's a place where we can keep all the ideas and development of an Europa-Trim
in one place. It can have a sign up section to keep track of who wants one. A
code writing section etc.
Peter register on EuropaOwners.org and I'll give you moderator rights.
Paul Mcallister, Josok, and I are moderators.
Paul I made you a moderator because you may have some code to contribute and we
want to control revs of code.
I you want to use the forum, I'll write a summery of milestones and post them on
the list as progress is made.
If you want to keep the traffic on the list, or there is little interest I'll delete
the Forum.
Steved.
----------------
Visit EuropaOwnersForum http://www.europaowners.org/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Timothy.P.Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz> |
| Subject: | Re: Fw: G CCUL Temps and Fuel |
Tony,
You should run the oil temp between 90 -110 at 5000 rpm according to the book.
You may have an indication problem? On my monowheel (classic cowls) in summer
I have no problem in achieving this but in winter I have to put some aluminum
tape over the oil cooler to obtain 90-110 temps. My oil cooler is situated under
the spinner and not piggy backing behind the water radiator, due to having
a Rotax 912S.
50 - 60 oil temp is too low.
I run on 96 oct mogas from Mobil.
Cheers,
Tim
>
> From: "Tony Bale" <tony.bale(at)virgin.net>
> Date: 2005/05/14 Sat PM 10:37:26 GMT+12:00
> To:
> Subject: Europa-List: Fw: G CCUL Temps and Fuel
>
>
> Fellow Europe types greetings,
> We have at long last received our
permit and managed to get some flying in on UL, pretty impressed too !! Couple
of points some of you might be able to shed some light on if you please.
>
> Firstly having thoroughly warmed the aircraft to 100 deg C both oil and water,
within minutes of take off both are back around 50 - 60 at 5000 RPM, any lower
revs and the guages hardly register, is this as others experience ? We are
begining to consider plans to restrict the air outlets from the radiators. The
ambient at ground level has been circa 11 - 13 deg C during these flights at
between 2 - 3000 feet.
>
> Secondly, considering fuel. Currently we simply use the cheap unleaded from Tesco's,
in my previous life racing cars we always mixed the unleaded with higher
grades and octanes, what do you guys run and have you noticed any improvements
in performance / economy / condition of oil following change / plugs etc ?
>
> Any thoughts / experiences greatly received
>
> Regards
>
> Tony.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | electrical stuff |
| From: | "paul atkinson" <paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk> |
Hello all
I am about to wire up my mags to switches in the panel. The Rotax 912s
manual suggests using .75mm sq wiring for these. 18 awg is 0.9mm sq and
20awg is 0.5mmsq. Bob K suggests 20awg in his z16 wiring diagram. I can't
find any info about current requirements for this wiring. Is 20 awg what
everyone uses, or should I go for 18awg?
Is anyone out there using a RMI uMonitor with a 912s. If so, how have you
dealt with oil temp sensing. I get the impression that the rotax supplied
sensor is incompatible with the monitor and that I should replace it with
the homebuilt sensor supplied with the monitor. If that is the case how do
I remove the rotax sensor? It doesn't look straightfoward to me and I'd
rather not risk damaging my still pristine engine. :-(
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Paul Atkinson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "paul atkinson" <paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk> |
Hello again
Before I anyone wastes any of their valuable time trying to answer the
second question in my previous email oi tink oi ave found the answer.... a
12mm spanner. I was looking at something completely different:-((
Regards
Paul Atkinson
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Roger Anderson" <randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk> |
For those of us who don't achieve the required angles up and down on the tailplane
on the first fitting, I have found that one full turn of the adjuster
varies the tailplane angle by about one degree. I hope that this may useful information
for others.
At the moment the mass balance weights on my aircraft contact the port guide
strip. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get them centred without
removing, bending and replacing the installation on a trial and error basis.
Needless to say I did remove the restraining cables in accordance with the directions
in the mod. Removal and installation is a pig of a job, and not one that
I want to have to keep doing.
Roger (G-BXTD)
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Cliff Shaw" <flyinggpa(at)comcast.net> |
| Subject: | Re: electrical stuff |
Paul
The electrical current is "nil" on the Mag kill switches. There function on
the Rotax is the same as on other aircraft engines, they short out the
ignition so it will not make a spark at the plugs. The wire size is more
important from a mechanical standpoint. I have had the connection brake
twice at the engine end because of vibration. I did use shielded # 20 wire.
Your choice !
Cliff Shaw
1041 Euclid ave.
Edmonds, WA 98020
425 776 5555
http://www.europaowners.org/WileE
----- Original Message -----
From: "paul atkinson" <paul(at)theatkinsons.demon.co.uk>
Subject: Europa-List: electrical stuff
>
>
> Hello all
>
> I am about to wire up my mags to switches in the panel. The Rotax 912s
> manual suggests using .75mm sq wiring for these. 18 awg is 0.9mm sq and
> 20awg is 0.5mmsq. Bob K suggests 20awg in his z16 wiring diagram. I can't
> find any info about current requirements for this wiring. Is 20 awg what
> everyone uses, or should I go for 18awg?
>
> Is anyone out there using a RMI uMonitor with a 912s. If so, how have you
> dealt with oil temp sensing. I get the impression that the rotax supplied
> sensor is incompatible with the monitor and that I should replace it with
> the homebuilt sensor supplied with the monitor. If that is the case how do
> I remove the rotax sensor? It doesn't look straightfoward to me and I'd
> rather not risk damaging my still pristine engine. :-(
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> Paul Atkinson
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | JohnDHeykoop(at)aol.com |
In a message dated 15/05/05 14:18:44 GMT Standard Time,
randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk writes:
> At the moment the mass balance weights on my aircraft contact the port
> guide strip. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get them centred
> without removing, bending and replacing the installation on a trial and error
> basis.
I installed Mod 70 last Thursday, but left the cables attached to the TP10s
just in case they might still be needed (I have turnbuckles). The installation
was a fairly easy job as I don't have the top on yet. However, I have the same
problem as you in that the mass balance weights contact the port guide strip.
Very little pressure is needed to get the weights centred, so I certainly
have no intention of removing, bending and replacing the installation on a trial
and error basis.
I had a very brief word with Andy Draper about this on Friday (he was with a
customer, so there was no time to go into details). Andy said I was not the
only one with this problem and that he was going to discuss it with Francis
Donaldson. He asked me to call back sometime next week.
John Heykoop
XS mono G-JHKP, kit #536.
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Inspired day out! |
| From: | Gerry Holland <gnholland(at)onetel.com> |
Just like to thanks William for choosing today for Drop of a Hat Fly-in to
Caernarfon, North Wales in the shadow of Mount Snowdon..
The weather was marvellous with all the Mountains as a back drop. At least 8
Europa=B9s turned out including Alan Burrows from Isle of Man.
The last we saw of Alan was making his way to his aircraft with Special
Branch!!
Thanks William!
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "KARL HEINDL" <kheindl(at)msn.com> |
I am in no hurry at all to install this mod 70 thing. I wouldn't be
surprised if there will be another mod to the mod. And all because someone
made a few borderline crash landings, and then the PFA got involved. The
same Francis Donaldson passed all these components before Europa went into
production. The installation is easy for new builders, but I would probably
do more harm than good
rummaging around in the back of the fuselage. My balance arm is very well
behaved and doesn't clonk against the stops, even on bumpy surfaces
Karl no 392 C-FIRS trigear
>From: JohnDHeykoop(at)aol.com
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod. 70
>Date: Sun, 15 May 2005 12:41:25 EDT
>
>
>In a message dated 15/05/05 14:18:44 GMT Standard Time,
>randerson(at)skewstacks.freeserve.co.uk writes:
>
> > At the moment the mass balance weights on my aircraft contact the port
> > guide strip. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get them
>centred
> > without removing, bending and replacing the installation on a trial and
>error
> > basis.
>
>I installed Mod 70 last Thursday, but left the cables attached to the TP10s
>just in case they might still be needed (I have turnbuckles). The
>installation
>was a fairly easy job as I don't have the top on yet. However, I have the
>same
>problem as you in that the mass balance weights contact the port guide
>strip.
>Very little pressure is needed to get the weights centred, so I certainly
>have no intention of removing, bending and replacing the installation on a
>trial
>and error basis.
>
>I had a very brief word with Andy Draper about this on Friday (he was with
>a
>customer, so there was no time to go into details). Andy said I was not the
>only one with this problem and that he was going to discuss it with Francis
>Donaldson. He asked me to call back sometime next week.
>
>John Heykoop
>XS mono G-JHKP, kit #536.
>
>
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | <peter.rees05(at)ntlworld.com> |
| Subject: | Re: 22000 Capacitor |
--> Europa-List message posted by:
Where are you located? If you're in the UK, I'd use Farnell or Maplin - Farnell
do an excellent range (and generally cheaper than RS) - Maplin are pretty cheap
and chearful.
Both have websites, take cards and mail order (Maplin have shops too).
If you're in the US, there are loads of mail order suppliers but I'm sure one of
our friends over there can recommend the ones which give good service / price.
>
> From: N55XS <topglock(at)cox.net>
> Date: 2005/05/16 Mon AM 03:41:12 GMT
> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: 22000 Capacitor
>
> --> Europa-List message posted by: N55XS
>
> When it comes to electronics, I'm lost. Does anyone have a source/part
> number, etc. for that little capacitor that hooks up to the rectifier?
> Sorry to sound like an idiot, but none of the local shops seem to know
> what I'm asking for...
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> --
> Jeff - A055
> Almost there...
> Builders Log: http://www.N55XS.com
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----------------------------------------
Email sent from www.ntlworld.com
virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software
visit www.ntlworld.com/security for more information
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Inspired day out! |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
They released me eventually. just in time to pay an "extra" landing fee
to cover the cost of having special branch visit to ensure I was not a
thoroughly bad egg..!
My thanks also go to William, it was a good day out and great flying.
Keep up the good work William.
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry
Holland
Subject: Europa-List: Inspired day out!
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland
Just like to thanks William for choosing today for Drop of a Hat Fly-in
to Caernarfon, North Wales in the shadow of Mount Snowdon..
The weather was marvellous with all the Mountains as a back drop. At
least 8 Europa=B9s turned out including Alan Burrows from Isle of Man.
The last we saw of Alan was making his way to his aircraft with Special
Branch!!
Thanks William!
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "M@nsfield" <nsfield(at)screaming.net> |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "M@nsfield"
Hi Mike,
Don't know if you noticed it, but there's an ad for trailers inthe latest
EF - 3 pre-production units on sale at a discount price too!
Hope this helps.
Rgds
Paul
P.S. Did you get my last re your cradle?
>-- Original Message --
>From: "Mike Gamble" <mp.gamble(at)virgin.net>
>To:
>Subject: Europa-List: Xs trailer
>Date: Wed, 4 May 2005 20:36:34 +0100
>Reply-To: europa-list(at)matronics.com
>
>
>--> Europa-List message posted by: "Mike Gamble"
>
>I'm in the market again for a reasonably priced trailer for my XS mono.
Anything
>available in my area (Camberley, Surrey) ? Details and price direct please.
>Mike Gamble
>XS mono
>Just about ready to take it out of the cradle
>
Book yourself something to look forward to in 2005.
Cheap flights - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/travel/flights/
Bargain holidays - http://www.tiscali.co.uk/travel/holidays/
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jeremy Davey" <EuropaFlyer_3(at)msn.com> |
| Subject: | Inspired day out! |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey"
So, Alan, any top tips for pulling the wool over the eyes of Special Branch?
:-)
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it is
possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation.
Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway
CM installed in fuse (with airbrakes fittings)
1390 build hours to date
Intended fit:
Rotax 914 turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop
Lots of lights, buttons, switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Burrows
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Inspired day out!
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Burrows"
<alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
They released me eventually. just in time to pay an "extra" landing fee
to cover the cost of having special branch visit to ensure I was not a
thoroughly bad egg..!
My thanks also go to William, it was a good day out and great flying.
Keep up the good work William.
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry
Holland
Subject: Europa-List: Inspired day out!
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland
Just like to thanks William for choosing today for Drop of a Hat Fly-in
to Caernarfon, North Wales in the shadow of Mount Snowdon..
The weather was marvellous with all the Mountains as a back drop. At
least 8 Europa=B9s turned out including Alan Burrows from Isle of Man.
The last we saw of Alan was making his way to his aircraft with Special
Branch!!
Thanks William!
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| Subject: | Inspired day out! |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Burrows" <alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
`Yes use the tried & tested PFA answer of "I'll post it next week" which
of course never comes..!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy
Davey
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Inspired day out!
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jeremy Davey"
-->
So, Alan, any top tips for pulling the wool over the eyes of Special
Branch?
:-)
Jeremy Davey
Europa Monowheel 537M G-EZZA
Europa Club Vice-Chairman, Webmaster, PFA NC Representative
PFA EC Member
If you can keep your head when all about you are losing theirs, then it
is possible you haven't grasped the severity of the situation. Tail done
Standard XS wings with mods underway CM installed in fuse (with
airbrakes fittings) 1390 build hours to date Intended fit: Rotax 914
turbo, Airmaster CS fully-feathering prop Lots of lights, buttons,
switches, gizmos, and alarms
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan
Burrows
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Inspired day out!
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Alan Burrows"
<alan@kestrel-insurance.com>
They released me eventually. just in time to pay an "extra" landing fee
to cover the cost of having special branch visit to ensure I was not a
thoroughly bad egg..! My thanks also go to William, it was a good day
out and great flying. Keep up the good work William.
Alan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry
Holland
Subject: Europa-List: Inspired day out!
--> Europa-List message posted by: Gerry Holland
Just like to thanks William for choosing today for Drop of a Hat Fly-in
to Caernarfon, North Wales in the shadow of Mount Snowdon..
The weather was marvellous with all the Mountains as a back drop. At
least 8 Europa=B9s turned out including Alan Burrows from Isle of Man.
The last we saw of Alan was making his way to his aircraft with Special
Branch!!
Thanks William!
Regards
Gerry
Europa 384 G-FIZY
http://www.g-fizy.com
Mobile: +44 7808 402404
WebFax: +44 870 7059985
gnholland(at)onetel.com
________________________________________________________________________________
| From: | "Jim Butcher" <europa(at)triton.net> |
| Subject: | Re: 22000 Capacitor (N55XS) |
--> Europa-List message posted by: "Jim Butcher"
Jeff,
B&C sells them. Also you can get them from Newark Electronics or DigiKey.
April 30, 2005 - May 16, 2005
Europa-Archive.digest.vol-es