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January 28, 2010 - March 07, 2010

Thanks for sharing your holder and description! Very good. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: MG folding prop
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 28, 2010
Hi Peter, The 914 is a different kettle of fish when it comes to airstart because it is a low compression engine (8.5:1 if I recall correctly) versus the 912S which is 10.5:1. The required force to spin the prop to 600 rpm where the ignition modules start to park is thus greater in the 912S system. I was flying with John H the first time he shut-down the engine in the 914 demonstrator and we battery restarted it. At the time, he was the one who told me the 912S would not airstart because the unaided airflow would not spin the prop fast enough. At the time he had not ever shut down the 912S in the short wing demonstrator. If a way to restart by air has been found as Terry says, that is a great advance in my knowledge! -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283865#283865 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2010
Subject: Re: MG folding prop
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Ira "If a way to restart by air has been found as Terry says, that is a greatadvance in my knowledge!" I don't have any experiance with 912S, but with your ability to select course pitch on Airmaster, and ability to pitch nose at groundand quite easily select an airspeed in excess of 110knots, I have a hard time trying to figure that a combination offine pitch (high gear)and fairly mild compression ratio(compared to a high performance motor) will not airstart a 4 cylinder motor with ~300CCs per cylinder. This takes into consideration gearbox, but also fairly large fan up front which is a pretty good force to be reckened with in hurricane speed wind. Course pitch of proppseudo equates to a higher ground pounding transmission gear when bump starting. The hardest motor I ever encountered on a motorcycle trying to bump start was an all out road racingCageva with a 2 cylinder Ducati engine with a compression ratio that was beyond high. Probably 500ccs per cylinder that absolute needed racing fuel octane.Several guys and top gear would in fact do the deed which is pretty amazing. This bike wouldn't think about idling below 3500RPM. The only thingI don't like about air starting a Rotax is once motor begins to spin up, it's going to go from stopped with no oil pressure to quite fast almost instantly. If you have cold thick oil on top of having a lot of oil drain away, that is not going to be a secret to long engine life. For a back up meansof starting motorif starter will not do deed, this would be agood procedure to have figured out and information stored inyour back pocket. Would you be interested in taking me for a ride over Brookhaven for a mission? We go up to 7500 or higherfeet over airport,I will bring my variometer and we can shut off motor and test glide angle and sink rates with various configurations, windmilling prop course and fine, stopped propcourse andfine and stopped prop feathered. By using GPS and variometer and altimeter readings we can fool with some different airspeeds into and with the wind.Once numbers are ground willhave a better understanding of best thing to do. Of course with oil still warm we can practice air restarts. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Henderson" <europabill(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Europa Classic Exhaust
Date: Jan 29, 2010
Does anyone have a Classic exhaust (in any condition) they would like to sell? I'm still trying to find one that is possibly repairable or to use as a template to build my own. Thanks, Bill Monowheel Classic, 912S ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europa Classic Exhaust
From: "flyingphil2" <ptiller(at)lolacars.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2010
Hi, I'm not sure if it's a Classic or XS exhaust but the company below has had one for sale for ages: http://www.sky-craft.co.uk/ Go to their website and search for Europa. Regards, Phil Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283895#283895 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2010
Subject: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 01/28/10
From: John Lawton <wingdingy(at)gmail.com>
> Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Europa-List Digest: 10 Msgs - 01/27/10 > From: "Christoph Both" <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca> > > What a waste of time. Same for discussing if Apple is better than > Microsoft. > > Much better to discuss which tool is best for the job. Let's stop > comparing Apples to Oranges. Or Toyotas to GM. > > Christoph Both > > #223<<<<<<<< > > Hello Christoph, > Everyone is entitled to their opinion, but your comment is one of the most snobbish, elitiest things I've seen posted here in the eight years that I have participated in this forum. There are a lot of things that are posted to this forum that are a waste of time from my perspective, sir, such as anything to do with the monowheel, or the constant chatter about the "drop of the hat" fly outs that are only of use to those in the UK, or the various lengthy threads about Rotax installation and cooling issues with the Europa. Why not just skip over the posts you don't find interesting rather than insult the people who make them by chiding them for wasting your precious time? The majority of what is posted here is of little or no interest to me because I've been flying for nigh onto four years now and I don't reside in the UK. As such, I just skip over what doesn't interest me and pay it no mind. Your tune would change dramatically if your engine of choice was constantly being berated on this forum with idle comments about <> with no real basis in fact, thereby driving down the resale value of your airplane. You are but one of over 300 people subscribed to this list. Not everyone is interested in the same topics that interest you, either, partner. You might not have noticed, but there is a key in the upper righthand corner of your keyboard that has the word "Delete" written on it. If you don't like a topic, use that button, rather than the rest of the keys on your keyboard to insult the people here who are genuinely interested in the Jabiru engine and its use in the Europa as an alternative to the Rotax 9xx. Regards, John Lawton Whitwell, TN (TN89) N245E - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2010
Subject: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 01/28/10
From: John Lawton <wingdingy(at)gmail.com>
> >>>>>BTW: It is not possible to air-start a 912S in any case.<<<<<< > Hi Ira, I air start the 912S in my Ximango all the time. Very easy to do and necessary if I run the battery down when soaring because I'm running my transponder, 2 varios and boombox off the battery. All I have to do is push the nose over until I get to about 100 knots, flip on the mag switches, unfeather the prop and the engine starts right up. In fact, I had to demonstrate several air starts as a condition of getting my motorglider rating. As a general rule of thumb I observe a lower limit for engine off ops in the Ximango of 1500' agl in order to give myself enough room to perform an air start should it become necessary. That big old fat Hoffman prop on my Ximango doesn't have any trouble spinning the 912S fast enough to start at just over 100 kts. Air starts might be difficult with skinny Warp Drive blades, though. That might be what John Hurst was referring to. Regards, John Lawton Whitwell, TN (TN89) N245E - Flying ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 29, 2010
Subject: Snobbish and elitist comments
From: Gerry Holland <gholland@content-stream.co.uk>
John Hi! Unless you know personally or have come across Christoph in your travels I=B9 m not sure how his e-mail sets him up as snobbish or elitist unless you know better? I think the tone you read into the Christoph e-mail is the tone of the emai l as YOU see it. I read it and understood exactly what he meant. The comments such as apples and pears is right. In fact both Jabiru and Rotax are good engines and are used based on personal choice are around cost and perceived capability. At the risk of stating the obvious..... E-mail comments are very OFTEN misconstrued and are not a good basis to make a return comment. Use of pertinent Subject words will ensure that a quick appraisal of e-mail content can be made and appropriate action taken. Too many times the =8Cre=B9 Subject prolongs passage of a subject where often it strays from it=B9s original theme. Regards Gerry ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Snobbish and elitist comments
Date: Jan 29, 2010
From: "Christoph Both" <christoph.both(at)acadiau.ca>
Hi Gerry: Thank you for your response. I appreciate this and I certainly did not mean to offend anybody. In fact, as people who know me a bit better know how fond I am of the Jabiru line of engines - they are worth every consideration - especially having met Australian airworthiness standards, lighter weight, ease of repair at local AME's, etc. I would have also preferred a personal email from the writer expressing his personal opinion about the person he refers to, instead of involving the entire list. Christoph From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Holland Sent: Friday, January 29, 2010 1:18 PM Subject: Europa-List: Snobbish and elitist comments John Hi! Unless you know personally or have come across Christoph in your travels I'm not sure how his e-mail sets him up as snobbish or elitist unless you know better? I think the tone you read into the Christoph e-mail is the tone of the email as YOU see it. I read it and understood exactly what he meant. The comments such as apples and pears is right. In fact both Jabiru and Rotax are good engines and are used based on personal choice are around cost and perceived capability. At the risk of stating the obvious..... E-mail comments are very OFTEN misconstrued and are not a good basis to make a return comment. Use of pertinent Subject words will ensure that a quick appraisal of e-mail content can be made and appropriate action taken. Too many times the 're' Subject prolongs passage of a subject where often it strays from it's original theme. Regards Gerry ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europa-List Digest: 12 Msgs - 01/26/10
From: "Roland" <schmidtroland(at)web.de>
Date: Jan 29, 2010
Hi John, you can receive information of TBO-extension on http://www.franz-aircraft.de/Rotax/Franz-e.htm (they have also English pages). In my opinion the comparison between the Ford and Rotax doesn't fit - rather does it for the Volkswagen. Rotax is anything but known for a lack of reliability - but this seems to come close a religious war. Unfortunately I don't have TBO-costs at hand. Maybe you can also get this information on the website mentioned above. Happy landings! Roland [quote="wingdingy(at)gmail.com"] > >>>>>Rotax extended TBO for the 912 series to 2000 h and 15 years. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283954#283954 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: MG folding prop
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2010
Hi Ron, I have not tried powering down my engine as I don't see any point until such time as I have my long wings. The data on inability to airstart is direct from the factory. No real point in persevering over just how much force at what prop pitch at what airspeed, etc. If Terry has done it, that's great. I have tested my airframe at 110% Vne as per protocol during my Phase 1, 110kt is 15% below cruise. I have compiled a great deal of test flight data as per the bootstrap method outlined in John Lowry's great book. I have first cuts at my airframes best Vspeeds etc and I believe I have posted those here in times past. You and Wayne are of course always welcome for a ride! Just please leave your memo pad at home. Cheers, Ira -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283972#283972 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 01/28/10
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2010
Hi John! Frankly, I never knew where JH got his info. You and I well remember the constant friction in the office back in the day! I do know that John had no personal experience with inflight restarts of the 912S (as compared) with the 914. Never tried it my self either and will not until I need to with big wings. I used to worry about the engine cold soaking while soaring (I can dream can't I) and having trouble restarting over the Catskills. Over the years however I routinely have started my engine truly cold without ever an issue if my Odyssey was over 80% charged Your additional data point is certainly helpful with Terry's! Regards, Ira -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283973#283973 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europa-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 01/28/10
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Jan 29, 2010
Hi John! Frankly, I never knew where JH got his info. You and I well remember the constant friction in the office back in the day! I do know that John had no personal experience with inflight restarts of the 912S (as compared) with the 914. Never tried it my self either and will not until I need to with big wings. I used to worry about the engine cold soaking while soaring (I can dream can't I) and having trouble restarting over the Catskills. Over the years however I routinely have started my engine truly cold without ever an issue if my Odyssey was over 80% charged Your additional data point is certainly helpful with Terry's! Regards, Ira -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=283974#283974 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Subject: Lifting the Europa
Date: Jan 30, 2010
Hey Guys and Gals, When folks talk about lifting a Europa by the engine mount are they referring to the mount forward of the lord mounts or aft of the lord mounts? I need to lift my Classic monowheel for maintenance in the garage without the wings on it. I am thinking about having a welded stand with the hydraulic jack added like someone on the forum made for lifting, but the exhaust pipe is in the way on the port side. I need to get the weight off the tire to fiddle with the brace for the landing gear handle mod. It was too stiff laterally as I remember from last I did it. I made too fancy of a brace than the angle stock I had on earlier. That was before the engine was installed and things were easier then. Thoughts, ideas anyone? Troy Maynor Monowheel Classic UK120 Passed inspection, first flight soon. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "craig bastin" <craigb(at)onthenet.com.au>
Subject: Lifting the Europa
Date: Jan 31, 2010
If you still have the dummy spar, perhaps you could make/get made a steel tube with the correct spacing to replicate the main spar setup, and jack from there craig -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Troy Maynor Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 6:43 AM To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Europa-List: Lifting the Europa Hey Guys and Gals, When folks talk about lifting a Europa by the engine mount are they referring to the mount forward of the lord mounts or aft of the lord mounts? I need to lift my Classic monowheel for maintenance in the garage without the wings on it. I am thinking about having a welded stand with the hydraulic jack added like someone on the forum made for lifting, but the exhaust pipe is in the way on the port side. I need to get the weight off the tire to fiddle with the brace for the landing gear handle mod. It was too stiff laterally as I remember from last I did it. I made too fancy of a brace than the angle stock I had on earlier. That was before the engine was installed and things were easier then. Thoughts, ideas anyone? Troy Maynor Monowheel Classic UK120 Passed inspection, first flight soon. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JR Gowing" <jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Lifting the Europa
Date: Jan 31, 2010
craig I think you could lift from just about any part of the engine mount At the moment my fuselage is more or less hangine from the propeller boss w ith a little stabilisation JR Bob Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz.. ----- Original Message ----- From: craig bastin To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 8:46 AM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Lifting the Europa If you still have the dummy spar, perhaps you could make/get made a steel tube with the correct spacing to replicate the main spar setup, and jack f rom there craig -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list- server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Troy Maynor Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 6:43 AM To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Europa-List: Lifting the Europa Hey Guys and Gals, When folks talk about lifting a Europa by the engine mount are they ref erring to the mount forward of the lord mounts or aft of the lord mounts=3F I need to lift my Classic monowheel for maintenance in the garage without th e wings on it. I am thinking about having a welded stand with the hydraulic jack added like someone on the forum made for lifting, but the exhaust pip e is in the way on the port side. I need to get the weight off the tire to fiddle with the brace for the landing gear handle mod. It was too stiff lat erally as I remember from last I did it. I made too fancy of a brace than t he angle stock I had on earlier. That was before the engine was installed a nd things were easier then. Thoughts, ideas anyone=3F Troy Maynor Monowheel Classic UK120 Passed inspection, first flight soon. href==22http://www.matronics.com/Navigator=3FEuropa-List=22>http://www.matronhref ==22http://forums.matronics.com=22>http://forums.matronics.com href==22http://www.matronics.com/contribution=22>http://www.matronics.com/c =5F-=========================================================== =5F-= - The Europa-List Email Forum - =5F-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse =5F-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, =5F-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, =5F-= Photoshare, and much much more: =5F- =5F-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator=3FEuropa-List =5F- =5F-=========================================================== =5F-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - =5F-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! =5F- =5F-= --> http://forums.matronics.com =5F- =5F-=========================================================== =5F-= - List Contribution Web Site - =5F-= Thank you for your generous support! =5F-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. =5F-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution =5F-=========================================================== --------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 07:35:00 -- We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. The Professional version does not have this message ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "craig bastin" <craigb(at)onthenet.com.au>
Subject: Lifting the Europa
Date: Jan 31, 2010
I just had concerns about asymetric loading of the mount itself, given the mount is designed for a "tension" load pulling forward under normal flight conditions, but given it has to support the weight of the engine at 8G ultimate load which is about 600kg depending on engine choice, you are probably correct. craig -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JR Gowing Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 4:27 PM To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: Europa-List: Lifting the Europa craig I think you could lift from just about any part of the engine mount At the moment my fuselage is more or less hangine from the propeller boss with a little stabilisation JR Bob Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz.. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "JR Gowing" <jrgowing(at)bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: Lifting the Europa
Date: Jan 31, 2010
YOu have given it more thought than I JR ----- Original Message ----- From: craig bastin To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 6:16 PM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Lifting the Europa I just had concerns about asymetric loading of the mount itself, given th e mount is designed for a =22tension=22 load pulling forward under normal flight conditions, but given it has to support the weight of the engine a t 8G ultimate load which is about 600kg depending on engine choice, you are probably correct. craig -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list- server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of JR Gowing Sent: Sunday, January 31, 2010 4:27 PM To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Re: Europa-List: Lifting the Europa craig I think you could lift from just about any part of the engine mount At the moment my fuselage is more or less hangine from the propeller bo ss with a little stabilisation JR Bob Gowing UK Kit 327 in Oz.. =5F-=========================================================== =5F-= - The Europa-List Email Forum - =5F-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse =5F-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, =5F-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, =5F-= Photoshare, and much much more: =5F- =5F-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator=3FEuropa-List =5F- =5F-=========================================================== =5F-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - =5F-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! =5F- =5F-= --> http://forums.matronics.com =5F- =5F-=========================================================== =5F-= - List Contribution Web Site - =5F-= Thank you for your generous support! =5F-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. =5F-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution =5F-=========================================================== --------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 19:35:00 -- We are a community of 6 million users fighting spam. The Professional version does not have this message ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Stephan Cassel" <stephan(at)scassel.se>
Subject: Re: Lifting the Europa
Date: Jan 31, 2010
Hi Troy, Another approach is the "mini dolly": http://www.scassel.se/europa/dolly1.jpg http://www.scassel.se/europa/dolly2.jpg (aircraft level) The dolly is attached on one of the strongest part of the fuselage, i.e. where the cockpit-module, fuselage and firewall are bound together. It is important to create/mould the support blocks on the fuselage in order to fit perfect. Between the support block and fuselage is quite hard rubber. Each support block has 5 mm bolt through the fuselage, just in case. After 5 years of use (also during the finishing of the kit ) the fuselage has not moved a fraction of mm from the dolly. The dolly should be made with full tank (max load) and a piece of wood 2" under the wheel, see picture otherwise you can not operate the landing gear properly in level, see pic You also need a tail wheel support, see pic I use my "mini-dolly" one every service. Even 50 hours service. I can check flaps/landing gear/outrigger ++ very easy. Please feel free if you need any offline info. Best regards Stephan Cassel LN-STE 230 hours - third year ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Lifting the Europa
Date: Jan 31, 2010
On Jan 31, 2010, at 3:58 AM, Stephan Cassel wrote: > > http://www.scassel.se/europa/dolly1.jpg > http://www.scassel.se/europa/dolly2.jpg (aircraft level) Outstanding Stephen !! Could you please describe your procedure for getting your dolly in place on your XS? It's not clear to me how you raise the aircraft to get the dolly under it. Thanks, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl(at)flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Lifting the Europa
Date: Feb 19, 2010
Safest option is to invest in a hydraulic engine hoist and lift using the engine mounting frame (secure with rope aft of the lord mounts). I recently purchased one for =A3125 on Ebay. Sounds expensive but once flying you will need to lift the aircraft every year (fully rigged) for the annual inspection so over the years it will prove to be a worthwhile investment. Heres one like I bought - I expect they are cheaper in the USA. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-TON-FOLDING-HYDRAULIC-ENGINE-CRANE-HOIST-LIFT_W0Q QitemZ110465901864QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment?hash=i tem19b847e528 Its folding so can be stored in the corner of the garage. Anything that relies on jacks needs to be pretty secure or you risk getting squashed. ----- Original Message ----- From: Troy Maynor To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:43 PM Subject: Europa-List: Lifting the Europa Hey Guys and Gals, When folks talk about lifting a Europa by the engine mount are they referring to the mount forward of the lord mounts or aft of the lord mounts? I need to lift my Classic monowheel for maintenance in the garage without the wings on it. I am thinking about having a welded stand with the hydraulic jack added like someone on the forum made for lifting, but the exhaust pipe is in the way on the port side. I need to get the weight off the tire to fiddle with the brace for the landing gear handle mod. It was too stiff laterally as I remember from last I did it. I made too fancy of a brace than the angle stock I had on earlier. That was before the engine was installed and things were easier then. Thoughts, ideas anyone? Troy Maynor Monowheel Classic UK120 Passed inspection, first flight soon. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Jan 31, 2010
Subject: Ideas for alternative motors
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
What an assortment of engine installiations! http://www.zenithair.com/zodiac/6-photo4.html http://www.zenithair.com/zodiac/6-photo4a-engines.html Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2010
From: Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net>
Subject: Re: Lifting the Europa
>When folks talk about lifting a Europa by the engine mount are they >referring to the mount forward of the lord mounts or aft of the lord >mounts Troy - I'd advise aft of the mounts. This will give a more stable lifting position and will not stress the mounts unnecessarily. You can see how we did it last year on Tim Houlihan's G-BZTH in my Picasa album at: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson/EuropaMiscellaneous I needed to extend the jib fully to reach aft of the mounts, and some care was required in choosing the strop attach point to avoid damaging pipes, wires etc. regards Rowland -- | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://home.clara.net/rowil/ | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 01, 2010
From: klaus dietrich <klaus.dietrich(at)oracle.com>
Subject: Lifting the Europa
some years back there was a description in the "Europa Flyer" of a cradle for the Europa; I built it several years ago and it served me well! With it you can easily change the wheel and operate the flaps etc. However once the plane is lifted I support it under the wings with two cradles. http://picasaweb.google.at/kdietric1/EuropaCraddle?authkey=Gv1sRgCLqKkOzD1c9l&feat=directlink Klaus (OE-CKD) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Lifting the Europa
Date: Feb 01, 2010
Like this? This is how I have done it and will do. I use four lifting straps all capable for +200 kgs. Notice 1: the wings are supported only just to keep the plane stable sideways, not to take weight. Notice 2: what more you lift that more you stress the tail wheel (if the tail is not supported /lifted). Raimo OH-XRT ----- Original Message ----- From: Carl Pattinson To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 9:03 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Lifting the Europa Safest option is to invest in a hydraulic engine hoist and lift using the engine mounting frame (secure with rope aft of the lord mounts). I recently purchased one for =A3125 on Ebay. Sounds expensive but once flying you will need to lift the aircraft every year (fully rigged) for the annual inspection so over the years it will prove to be a worthwhile investment. Heres one like I bought - I expect they are cheaper in the USA. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-TON-FOLDING-HYDRAULIC-ENGINE-CRANE-HOIST-LIFT_W0Q QitemZ110465901864QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment?hash=i tem19b847e528 Its folding so can be stored in the corner of the garage. Anything that relies on jacks needs to be pretty secure or you risk getting squashed. ----- Original Message ----- From: Troy Maynor To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, January 30, 2010 8:43 PM Subject: Europa-List: Lifting the Europa Hey Guys and Gals, When folks talk about lifting a Europa by the engine mount are they referring to the mount forward of the lord mounts or aft of the lord mounts? I need to lift my Classic monowheel for maintenance in the garage without the wings on it. I am thinking about having a welded stand with the hydraulic jack added like someone on the forum made for lifting, but the exhaust pipe is in the way on the port side. I need to get the weight off the tire to fiddle with the brace for the landing gear handle mod. It was too stiff laterally as I remember from last I did it. I made too fancy of a brace than the angle stock I had on earlier. That was before the engine was installed and things were easier then. Thoughts, ideas anyone? Troy Maynor Monowheel Classic UK120 Passed inspection, first flight soon. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matron href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: FW: Battle of Britain Memorial Flight
Date: Feb 01, 2010
This item is not directly concerned with Europa forum however I believe it to be a worthy cause. Of course it's unlikely the bureaucrats will take any notice anyway but worth a shot please. To actually sign the petition you need to complete the details and submit it then actually sign the return e-mail from "the funny farm"! Subject: BBMF For those who don't know ....Battle of Britain Memorial Flight Hi The word is out that one of the defence cuts is going to be the BBMF so please sign the petition by following this link http://petitions.number10.gov.uk/BBMFCuts Many thanks and apologies to any one this should cause offence to. Bob Harrison Europa MK1 Kit 337. ROTAX914 (WAS JABIRU 3300!) ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: RE: Europa Mods
Date: Feb 02, 2010
Does anyone have paper copies of the original Europa company Mod 18? This is:- 18/1 Mandatory, Pitot and static positioning, (to the XS wing position), 10.11.95, All aircraft Page 7-10 I would be happy to receive either a paper copies or an image PDF's if you can make them. I need this mod to check the final details of a "How to build a Classic" addition to the present manuals To make the Club records complete copies of Mods 15 to 17 would also be useful. 15/1 Mandatory, Forward lift pin/fuselage stiffening (1/4'' foam / Bid '' top hat stiffener'', vertically from thigh support to door sill), 14.9.95, All aircraft, Page 10-87 Prelim Issue 22 16/1 Mandatory, Shock absorber block shape modification, 7.11.95, All kits with LG06 without "V" shaping 17/1 Mandatory, Rudder pedal guides (Tufnell blocks) to clear the Undercarriage Frame), 7.11.95, All aircraft Page 10-65C & D prelim Issue 23 These are less important as they are all covered in the present manual Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 280 hours Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear) e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Voltage drop
Date: Feb 02, 2010
Hi Guys, last month I noticed my voltage slowly dropping to under 10 volts . It has been reading inconsistent for the last two flights so after 220 hours I replaced the Regulator. Now it's consistent but I'm only getting 11 volts on my stratomaster engine monitor. If anyone has a quick place for me to look I would like to hear from you. Best Regards, Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Greg Fuchs " <gregoryf.flyboy(at)comcast.net>
Subject: Voltage drop
Date: Feb 02, 2010
First place I would look would be the large capacitor connected right next to the regulator. Make sure it has the same capacity and/or is not open. A bad cap might affect the regulator output. Greg F. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2010
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Subject: Early Mods and Build Manual
Having a bad cold, can't sleep, so here. Fiddling with the cockpit module - before bonding in - I found that the rudder cable pulleys should really be oriented about 4 degrees (1 in 15) from vertical to avoid sideways loads. A consequence of Mod 17 I now understand. The Build Manual doesn't mention this. Most have probably solved the problem by mounting extra guides forward of the pulleys. I wonder whether the consequences of other early improvements (fuel tank gas treatment and bonding comes to mind) are fully reflected in the Build Manual. If similar instances of incompleteness have been found I would like to know. Cheers, Jan de Jong ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2010
Subject: Wing tip LED strobes
From: John Wighton <john(at)wighton.net>
I own G-IPOD (XS Kit #573), the builder, Steve Vestuti, installed some cabling into the wings for wing tip strobes and/or nav lights. The cabling spec is good for LED type. I would like some recommendations/feedback on equipment installed by other owners, including positioning, installation details, any info you have. I can open up the wingtip at the LE to give access, making provision (possibly) for landing lights as well. Alternatively access could be made from the underside, the hole being made into an access hatch or sealed up. ______________________________ John Wighton -- __________________________________ John Wighton uk mob: +44 7767 623600 Business uk tel: +44 700 345 0071 Business uk fax: +44 700 345 0072 __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "uvtreith" <uvtreith@t-online.de>
Subject: Flying without doors
Date: Feb 03, 2010
Hi Europa family, A friend of mine, flying in Austria, want for photo shooting reason to fly his Monowheel without doors. I know, we have had this point several time on the forum, but I have forgotten this. What should he do on the plane for flying without doors? What max, speed to you suggest? All info to this is very welcome. Best Regards, Bruno ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Flying without doors
Date: Feb 03, 2010
Hi! Bruno. Firstly I would expect that you would only require the passenger door to be open. My experience when Europa did some Air to Air photos of G-PTAG was that the maximum speed would be 110 kts. And no violent maneuvers or turbulent air. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of uvtreith Sent: 03 February 2010 09:20 Subject: Europa-List: Flying without doors Hi Europa family, A friend of mine, flying in Austria, want for photo shooting reason to fly his Monowheel without doors. I know, we have had this point several time on the forum, but I have forgotten this. What should he do on the plane for flying without doors? What max, speed to you suggest? All info to this is very welcome. Best Regards, Bruno ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "uvtreith" <uvtreith@t-online.de>
Subject: Wing tip LED strobes
Date: Feb 03, 2010
John, I have used the LED system from CreativeAir.com. They offer LED's only and also combos with landing light. They are integrated in the wing tips. The covers for this I have got from Fred Klein. It is a very clean solution. As tail light (when LED's, than all over) I have installed the very bright LED from PerihelionDesign.com See pictures. Best Regards, Bruno _____ Von: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] Im Auftrag von John Wighton Gesendet: Mittwoch, 3. Februar 2010 10:16 An: europa-list(at)matronics.com Betreff: Europa-List: Wing tip LED strobes I own G-IPOD (XS Kit #573), the builder, Steve Vestuti, installed some cabling into the wings for wing tip strobes and/or nav lights. The cabling spec is good for LED type. I would like some recommendations/feedback on equipment installed by other owners, including positioning, installation details, any info you have. I can open up the wingtip at the LE to give access, making provision (possibly) for landing lights as well. Alternatively access could be made from the underside, the hole being made into an access hatch or sealed up. ______________________________ John Wighton -- __________________________________ John Wighton uk mob: +44 7767 623600 Business uk tel: +44 700 345 0071 Business uk fax: +44 700 345 0072 __________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2010
From: danny shepherd <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Wing tip LED strobes
Hi John, I did the same as Bruno, but did not install landing lights. As you know "they" won't let us fly at night this side of the pond :-( . Also I fixed the strobes on the fuselage separately. Not sure if Fred Klein still makes the covers. Cheers Danny G-ceri John Wighton wrote: > I own G-IPOD (XS Kit #573), the builder, Steve Vestuti, installed some > cabling into the wings for wing tip strobes and/or nav lights. The > cabling spec is good for LED type. > I would like some recommendations/feedback on equipment installed by > other owners, including positioning, installation details, any info > you have. > > I can open up the wingtip at the LE to give access, making provision > (possibly) for landing lights as well. Alternatively access could be > made from the underside, the hole being made into an access hatch or > sealed up. > ______________________________ > John Wighton > > > -- > __________________________________ > John Wighton > uk mob: +44 7767 623600 > Business uk tel: +44 700 345 0071 > Business uk fax: +44 700 345 0072 > __________________________________ > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2010
From: danny shepherd <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Wing tip LED strobes
Hi John, I did the same as Bruno, but did not install landing lights. As you know "they" won't let us fly at night this side of the pond :-( . Also I fixed the strobes on the fuselage separately. Not sure if Fred Klein still makes the covers. Cheers Danny G-ceri John Wighton wrote: > I own G-IPOD (XS Kit #573), the builder, Steve Vestuti, installed some > cabling into the wings for wing tip strobes and/or nav lights. The > cabling spec is good for LED type. > I would like some recommendations/feedback on equipment installed by > other owners, including positioning, installation details, any info > you have. > > I can open up the wingtip at the LE to give access, making provision > (possibly) for landing lights as well. Alternatively access could be > made from the underside, the hole being made into an access hatch or > sealed up. > ______________________________ > John Wighton > > > -- > __________________________________ > John Wighton > uk mob: +44 7767 623600 > Business uk tel: +44 700 345 0071 > Business uk fax: +44 700 345 0072 > __________________________________ > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Voltage drop
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 03, 2010
before chucking the expensive regulator , you might check to see that alternator is putting out the appropriate 16 or so Vac, although odds are on the regulator. -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284715#284715 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Henderson" <europabill(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage drop
Date: Feb 03, 2010
Jeff, I would check your ground connections to the regulator, capacitor, etc. along with associated crimp connetors. Bill A010 ----- Original Message ----- From: "JEFF ROBERTS" <Jeff(at)rmmm.net> Sent: Tuesday, February 02, 2010 6:17 PM Subject: Europa-List: Voltage drop > > Hi Guys, > last month I noticed my voltage slowly dropping to under 10 volts . It > has been reading inconsistent for the last two flights so after 220 hours > I replaced the Regulator. Now it's consistent but I'm only getting 11 > volts on my stratomaster engine monitor. If anyone has a quick place for > me to look I would like to hear from you. > > Best Regards, > > Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 03, 2010
From: Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net>
Subject: one-man rigging stuff - UK
I was over at Roger Huttlestone's Northwick Engineering establishment the other day, getting the port wing spar clamp for my covered trailer modified to cope with the spar strap. In conversation Roger mentioned that a while back he'd had a flurry of interest in one-man rigging systems to suit the factory trailer. About half-a-dozen people had made enquiries, so he'd started to buy in materials and make jigs etc for a production run. He had to do quite a bit of redesign work including changing the way the wings are stowed. Alas, once he'd set up, all the interest evaporated and he was left with no customers. He now has a pile of redundant bits including a complete wing dolly taking up much-needed space and he is about to throw them in the skip. I offered to let the Europa community know and give you all one last chance to contact Roger before he gives it the heave-ho. I guess I should declare an interest - I bought one of the covered trailers he used to make, which includes one-man rigging gear. So far (not yet flying!) I am pleased with it. It's made the logistics of the build much easier; I can move the wings around single-handed (although I learned the hard way about leaving them sitting around unsupervised!), and the trailer is great for storing all the bits I'm not working on at any particular time. Roger has advertised in the Europa Flyer but if you don't have an appropriate back-number to refer to, contact me off-list & I'll give you his details. regards Rowland -- | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://home.clara.net/rowil/ | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info>
Subject: one-man rigging stuff - UK
Date: Feb 03, 2010
Hi All I second Rowland's approval. I had a very early MK1 rigging kit from Roger back in 199? and it worked well. Now the aeroplane is hangered Roger has made me a hydraulic fuselage dolly. Pete Classic mono #109 PS Rowland is he still making bio-diesel? -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rowland Carson Sent: 03 February 2010 18:46 Subject: Europa-List: one-man rigging stuff - UK I was over at Roger Huttlestone's Northwick Engineering establishment the other day, getting the port wing spar clamp for my covered trailer modified to cope with the spar strap. In conversation Roger mentioned that a while back he'd had a flurry of interest in one-man rigging systems to suit the factory trailer. About half-a-dozen people had made enquiries, so he'd started to buy in materials and make jigs etc for a production run. He had to do quite a bit of redesign work including changing the way the wings are stowed. Alas, once he'd set up, all the interest evaporated and he was left with no customers. He now has a pile of redundant bits including a complete wing dolly taking up much-needed space and he is about to throw them in the skip. I offered to let the Europa community know and give you all one last chance to contact Roger before he gives it the heave-ho. I guess I should declare an interest - I bought one of the covered trailers he used to make, which includes one-man rigging gear. So far (not yet flying!) I am pleased with it. It's made the logistics of the build much easier; I can move the wings around single-handed (although I learned the hard way about leaving them sitting around unsupervised!), and the trailer is great for storing all the bits I'm not working on at any particular time. Roger has advertised in the Europa Flyer but if you don't have an appropriate back-number to refer to, contact me off-list & I'll give you his details. regards Rowland -- | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://home.clara.net/rowil/ | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by Houxou, and is believed to be clean. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 04, 2010
From: Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net>
Subject: one-man rigging stuff - UK
>I had a very early MK1 rigging kit from Roger >PS Rowland is he still making bio-diesel Pete - that's one of his talents I hadn't been aware of - but I wouldn't be surprised. Come to think of it, I did notice something that looked vaguely like a still the other day but where I come from it's rude to ask about the purpose of that sort of equipment .... regards Rowland -- | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://home.clara.net/rowil/ | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Wanted Damaged Europa /salvage/cheap kit
From: "SteveD" <Post2Forum(at)comcast.net>
Date: Feb 04, 2010
Forwarding this. If interested please reply to the contact information below. Hi, Looking for a rebuild project or maybe a stalled project that now needs mods, prefer with trailer, I am willing to trade motorcycles or flying Motorglider (or share of depending on value). Kevin 07949 680550 http://www.europaowners.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7096&p=25287#p25287 Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Brad Shafer <bshafer(at)extremenetworks.com>
Date: Feb 04, 2010
Subject: Wanted Damaged Europa /salvage/cheap kit
I'll have a complete XS Europa minus engine and instruments for sale soon. It was flying when I purchased it but the owner/builder didn't want any liability so I bought it for parts. I am removing the engine and instruments along with a few other misc parts to finish my kit. Phoenix Composites did all the construction so the quality is very good. I'll have it for sale soon. It is in Chicago but I can arrange shipping overseas if needed. Let me know if anyone is interested. Brad +1-773-991-2632 bshafer2004(at)kellogg.northwestern.edu -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of SteveD Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2010 10:31 AM Subject: Europa-List: Wanted Damaged Europa /salvage/cheap kit Forwarding this. If interested please reply to the contact information below. Hi, Looking for a rebuild project or maybe a stalled project that now needs mods, prefer with trailer, I am willing to trade motorcycles or flying Motorglider (or share of depending on value). Kevin 07949 680550 http://www.europaowners.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=7096&p=25287#p25287 Visit - www.EuropaOwners.org DISCLAIMER: This e-mail and any attachments to it may contain confidential and proprietary material and is solely for the use of the intended recipient. Any review, use, disclosure, distribution or copying of this transmittal is prohibited except by or on behalf of the intended recipient. If you have received this transmittal in error, please notify the sender and destroy this e-mail and any attachments and all copies, whether electronic or printed. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Ted Gladstone
Date: Feb 04, 2010
Anyone know how to get in touch with him? Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Subject: Voltage drop
Date: Feb 04, 2010
Hi Jeff, Have you cross-checked your indicated voltage with another voltmeter? Remi Guerner F-PGKL <<<<<< last month I noticed my voltage slowly dropping to under 10 volts . It has been reading inconsistent for the last two flights so after 220 hours I replaced the Regulator. Now it's consistent but I'm only getting 11 volts on my stratomaster engine monitor. If anyone has a quick place for me to look I would like to hear from you.>>>>>>>>>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage drop
Date: Feb 04, 2010
Havent had time to do anything yet but thanks to you all I have made a list of what to check first. I will let all know of my results as soon as I get to it. Man I need to retire! NO TIME! Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush On Feb 4, 2010, at 2:14 PM, Remi Guerner wrote: > Hi Jeff, > > Have you cross-checked your indicated voltage with another voltmeter? > > Remi Guerner > F-PGKL > > > <<<<<< > last month I noticed my voltage slowly dropping to under 10 volts . It > has been reading inconsistent for the last two flights so after 220 > hours I replaced the Regulator. Now it's consistent but I'm only > getting 11 volts on my stratomaster engine monitor. If anyone has a > quick place for me to look I would like to hear from you.>>>>>>>>>>> > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Ted Gladstone
Date: Feb 05, 2010
From: "Kesterton, Donald" <donald.kesterton(at)logica.com>
Fergus You could try Ted.Gladstone(at)talktalk.net but he has moved in the last 12 months so not certain if this address is current Donald Kesterton G-PATS ________________________________ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Fergus Kyle Sent: 04 February 2010 19:37 Subject: Europa-List: Ted Gladstone Anyone know how to get in touch with him? Ferg Please help Logica to respect the environment by not printing this email / Pour contribuer comme Logica au respect de l'environnement, merci de ne pa s imprimer ce mail / Bitte drucken Sie diese Nachricht nicht aus und helfe n Sie so Logica dabei, die Umwelt zu sch=FCtzen. / Por favor ajude a Logic a a respeitar o ambiente nao imprimindo este correio electronico. This e-mail and any attachment is for authorised use by the intended recipi ent(s) only. It may contain proprietary material, confidential information and/or be subject to legal privilege. It should not be copied, disclosed to , retained or used by, any other party. If you are not an intended recipien t then please promptly delete this e-mail and any attachment and all copies and inform the sender. Thank you. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: First New Zealand South Island DOTH
Date: Feb 06, 2010
Hi all, A quick note to say the first New Zealand South Island 'DOTH' took place yesterday with Russell Lister (ZK - RJL) , Keith Hickling (ZK-MEE) and myself (ZK-TIM) flew to Glentannaer Station, very close to Mt Cook for lunch. Photo has Mt Cook in the background. After lunch we flew up the Tasman Glacier to 10,000ft over the Tasman Saddle and down the Godley Glacier. Wonderful day with great scenery. Cheers, Tim ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First New Zealand South Island DOTH
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 05, 2010
Lovely Picture Tim! -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=284990#284990 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: First New Zealand South Island DOTH
From: "pestar" <peter(at)reivernet.com>
Date: Feb 05, 2010
Not good enough, you were supposed to be at Sport Avex this weekend [Wink] .The other 2 Europas were lonely. Regards Peter Armstrong Sport Avex Tauranga Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285038#285038 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dwight Van Zanen <dbvz(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
Date: Feb 06, 2010
I am new to this system of communication. If you can direct me to somewher e to get this information=2C please let me know. I have been interested in a Europa for some time and would like your advice on the feasability of a diesel tri-gear=2C long wing=3B with aux fuel tank =2C IFR GPS coupled to autopilot with altitude hold=2C BRS and oxygen syste ms. I have looked into the WAM 120 from Weisch Airmotive=2C but open to alt ernatives. I am in the USA where an Experimental glider can be flown withou t a medical=2C night and IFR if properly equipped. Here are some reasons fo r my question: 1. Long range: Use a turbo-diesel at 3gph=2C aux tank=2C perhaps 2000NM in economy cruise? 3. GPS direct: 4. Low fuel cost: See #1 5. More safety in a SEL: great power-off glide=2C diesel fuel=2C add a BRS 6. Easier to make modifications: EXP=2C pretty simple systems 7. Cheaper for maintenance: Do it yourself mostly 8. Steady IFR platform: wingspan of 47.25 feet 9. Higher altitudes: turbo-diesel=2C add oxygen system 10. Remove the wings=2C take it home in a trailer. No hangar rental. 11. Higher speeds: 150kts TAS @ 10k=2C turbo for altitude. 12. No medical required for a registered glider in the USA=2C even for nigh t and IFR if equipped. And on the negatives: 13. Reduced to 2 seats. Solo for long range flights. Possible to increase u seful load with more power? 14. Initial cost to buy/build and set it up the way I want it. 15. Necessity of getting the glider rating and self-launch endorsement. 16. No toilet. Not needed with my current plane=2C but Porta-John works. 17. ? I know some people consider EXP a negative=2C but see 1-12... Most of my flying has been solo or with one passenger anyway=2C retired wit h grown kids mostly on the other coast. The MG idea would not work for ever yone=2C but it seems like it would work for me better than my current plane does. And the FAA rules allow night and IFR in a properly equiped MG witho ut a medical. May be valuable as I get older. Thanks for any advice or com ments on feasability. And if anyone is doing something similar=2C I would l ove to hear from you. Dwight B. Van Zanen 22426 262 Ave. SE Maple Valley=2C WA 98038 (425) 432-2213 dbvz(at)hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Tim Ward" <ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz>
Subject: Re: First New Zealand South Island DOTH
Date: Feb 06, 2010
Peter, Next time we will be there. Unfortunately my wife's birthday is on Waitangi Day and this year it was her 50th!! So had to be here tonight or else!!! Good to hear from you. Will contact you when I have time in Auckland to view your creation again! Cheers, Tim Tim Ward 12 Waiwetu Street' Fendalton, Christchurch. NEW ZEALAND Ph. 64 3 3515166 Mob 021 0640221 Email ward.t(at)xtra.co.nz ----- Original Message ----- From: "pestar" <peter(at)reivernet.com> Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 7:31 PM Subject: Europa-List: Re: First New Zealand South Island DOTH > > Not good enough, you were supposed to be at Sport Avex this weekend [Wink] > .The other 2 Europas were lonely. > > Regards > > Peter Armstrong > Sport Avex Tauranga > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285038#285038 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
Date: Feb 06, 2010
Dwight, That's quite a laundry list...sounds like you might be getting a bit heavy...t'would appear that you'd be doing some serious cloud-street soaring to meet your range target...though, as you may know, a short- wing Europa has encircled the globe... Every now and then there's a seller who, for liability reasons, wants to sell his plane w/o an engine...then you could re-engine to suit and spend some spare time building a set of long wings...consider your appetite for pioneering...you'll want to have a hearty one...then again, if you want to be a builder, start w/ an airframe kit...only one or two Europas w/ diesels as far as I know. I know of no one who is actively pursuing a BRS install... Good luck, Fred On Feb 6, 2010, at 11:47 AM, Dwight Van Zanen wrote: > I am new to this system of communication. If you can direct me to > somewhere to get this information, please let me know. > > I have been interested in a Europa for some time and would like your > advice on the feasability of a diesel tri-gear, long wing; with aux > fuel tank, IFR GPS coupled to autopilot with altitude hold, BRS and > oxygen systems. I have looked into the WAM 120 from Weisch > Airmotive, but open to alternatives. I am in the USA where an > Experimental glider can be flown without a medical, night and IFR if > properly equipped. Here are some reasons for my question: > > 1. Long range: Use a turbo-diesel at 3gph, aux tank, perhaps 2000NM > in economy cruise? > 3. GPS direct: > 4. Low fuel cost: See #1 > 5. More safety in a SEL: great power-off glide, diesel fuel, add a BRS > 6. Easier to make modifications: EXP, pretty simple systems > 7. Cheaper for maintenance: Do it yourself mostly > 8. Steady IFR platform: wingspan of 47.25 feet > 9. Higher altitudes: turbo-diesel, add oxygen system > 10. Remove the wings, take it home in a trailer. No hangar rental. > 11. Higher speeds: 150kts TAS @ 10k, turbo for altitude. > 12. No medical required for a registered glider in the USA, even for > night and IFR if equipped. > > And on the negatives: > > 13. Reduced to 2 seats. Solo for long range flights. Possible to > increase useful load with more power? > 14. Initial cost to buy/build and set it up the way I want it. > 15. Necessity of getting the glider rating and self-launch > endorsement. > 16. No toilet. Not needed with my current plane, but Porta-John works. > 17. ? I know some people consider EXP a negative, but see 1-12... > > Most of my flying has been solo or with one passenger anyway, > retired with grown kids mostly on the other coast. The MG idea would > not work for everyone, but it seems like it would work for me better > than my current plane does. And the FAA rules allow night and IFR in > a properly equiped MG without a medical. May be valuable as I get > older. Thanks for any advice or comments on feasability. And if > anyone is doing something similar, I would love to hear from you. > > > Dwight B. Van Zanen > 22426 262 Ave. SE > Maple Valley, WA 98038 > (425) 432-2213 > dbvz(at)hotmail.com > > > Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection. > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "craig bastin" <craigb(at)onthenet.com.au>
Subject: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
Date: Feb 07, 2010
I would suggest you have a look at the MGL EFIS panels, which will give you the IFR, autopilot gear you need, at a great price compared to most of the others. The Smart 1.5l turbo diesel comes in at 95hp, which is about the same as the rotax engines, fuel consumption runs to about 5 litres an hours good luck, sounds like a good project. craig -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dwight Van Zanen Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 5:47 AM To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Subject: Europa-List: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG? I am new to this system of communication. If you can direct me to somewhere to get this information, please let me know. I have been interested in a Europa for some time and would like your advice on the feasability of a diesel tri-gear, long wing; with aux fuel tank, IFR GPS coupled to autopilot with altitude hold, BRS and oxygen systems. I have looked into the WAM 120 from Weisch Airmotive, but open to alternatives. I am in the USA where an Experimental glider can be flown without a medical, night and IFR if properly equipped. Here are some reasons for my question: 1. Long range: Use a turbo-diesel at 3gph, aux tank, perhaps 2000NM in economy cruise? 3. GPS direct: 4. Low fuel cost: See #1 5. More safety in a SEL: great power-off glide, diesel fuel, add a BRS 6. Easier to make modifications: EXP, pretty simple systems 7. Cheaper for maintenance: Do it yourself mostly 8. Steady IFR platform: wingspan of 47.25 feet 9. Higher altitudes: turbo-diesel, add oxygen system 10. Remove the wings, take it home in a trailer. No hangar rental. 11. Higher speeds: 150kts TAS @ 10k, turbo for altitude. 12. No medical required for a registered glider in the USA, even for night and IFR if equipped. And on the negatives: 13. Reduced to 2 seats. Solo for long range flights. Possible to increase useful load with more power? 14. Initial cost to buy/build and set it up the way I want it. 15. Necessity of getting the glider rating and self-launch endorsement. 16. No toilet. Not needed with my current plane, but Porta-John works. 17. ? I know some people consider EXP a negative, but see 1-12... Most of my flying has been solo or with one passenger anyway, retired with grown kids mostly on the other coast. The MG idea would not work for everyone, but it seems like it would work for me better than my current plane does. And the FAA rules allow night and IFR in a properly equiped MG without a medical. May be valuable as I get older. Thanks for any advice or comments on feasability. And if anyone is doing something similar, I would love to hear from you. Dwight B. Van Zanen 22426 262 Ave. SE Maple Valley, WA 98038 (425) 432-2213 dbvz(at)hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 06, 2010
Realistically, I think you are asking too much from available hardware. A rotax tri-gear Europa has a range of about 300 nm with the factory tank at reasonable cruise. There is no standard long range tank for trigears or taildraggers, only available for monowheels. That extended tank only added about 50% to the range. Expecting 150kts on 3gph also seems a bit optimistic too. I get about 135 kts at 5000' at 5.5 gph with 912S. In the 912S fuel consumption increases with altitude. If you want a parachute for the fuselage, you will need to design that yourself since it has not been done before. -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285156#285156 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Gary Leinberger <Gary.Leinberger(at)millersville.edu>
Date: Feb 06, 2010
Subject: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
It is a good project idea - I am building my Europa MG tri-gear with full IFR with the same ideas . I have both sets of wings but will fly first with the short ones. I did think about a bigger engine but settled on the 912S. Unlike hot rods - more power is not necessarily good - there are very real problems of weight and balance as well as structural strength with a bigger engine - as well as handling. And more power won't necessarily translate into more speed or performance. There is also a safety issue - besides weight and balance. The airfoil, wing area and stabilators are designed for certain speeds and weight - fly at over the weight limit or speed limit and very bad things can happen. The plane as designed is very nice, and any mods greatly increase the build time - as I have learned the hard way. As for only two seats - I can only think of a few trips in 38 years of flying where I had more than 2 people in a plane. I looked at attaching a BRS (I have one in my Kitfox Lite) but it would require a complete re-engineering of the airplane. And in the Europa (as in the SR-22) use of the chute destroys the plane. Better to build and fly so you don't need it - and it only helps in very limited situations (like an in-flight structural failure at altitude - it won't help in situations where most accidents happen - take-offs and landings - since the chute can't deploy fast enough.) Realize that with the glider wings the carrying weight is reduced as the wings weigh, I think, 100 pounds more than the short wings. Be sure you register the plane as a motor glider even if you build the short wings first as it is very difficult to change the classification after registering as a SEL. There is a guy in Utah or Nevada that flies up to 22,000 ft. in his "Mini-U2" with oxygen. I think he has the 914 Turbo. I think his name is Dave Anderson(?). He had a web site that was pretty good. It may still be on the club site. I would suggest the high top and extra width mod (I am 6 ft tall and have wide shoulders) - this also gives you a higher windshield that greatly increases the viewing area. And it appears to not hurt performance. Gary Leinberger A237 ________________________________________ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of craig bastin [craigb(at)onthenet.com.au] Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 6:59 PM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG? I would suggest you have a look at the MGL EFIS panels, which will give you the IFR, autopilot gear you need, at a great price compared to most of the others. The Smart 1.5l turbo diesel comes in at 95hp, which is about the same as the rotax engines, fuel consumption runs to about 5 litres an hours good luck, sounds like a good project. craig -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dwight Van Zanen Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 5:47 AM Subject: Europa-List: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG? I am new to this system of communication. If you can direct me to somewhere to get this information, please let me know. I have been interested in a Europa for some time and would like your advice on the feasability of a diesel tri-gear, long wing; with aux fuel tank, IFR GPS coupled to autopilot with altitude hold, BRS and oxygen systems. I have looked into the WAM 120 from Weisch Airmotive, but open to alternatives. I am in the USA where an Experimental glider can be flown without a medical, night and IFR if properly equipped. Here are some reasons for my question: 1. Long range: Use a turbo-diesel at 3gph, aux tank, perhaps 2000NM in economy cruise? 3. GPS direct: 4. Low fuel cost: See #1 5. More safety in a SEL: great power-off glide, diesel fuel, add a BRS 6. Easier to make modifications: EXP, pretty simple systems 7. Cheaper for maintenance: Do it yourself mostly 8. Steady IFR platform: wingspan of 47.25 feet 9. Higher altitudes: turbo-diesel, add oxygen system 10. Remove the wings, take it home in a trailer. No hangar rental. 11. Higher speeds: 150kts TAS @ 10k, turbo for altitude. 12. No medical required for a registered glider in the USA, even for night and IFR if equipped. And on the negatives: 13. Reduced to 2 seats. Solo for long range flights. Possible to increase useful load with more power? 14. Initial cost to buy/build and set it up the way I want it. 15. Necessity of getting the glider rating and self-launch endorsement. 16. No toilet. Not needed with my current plane, but Porta-John works. 17. ? I know some people consider EXP a negative, but see 1-12... Most of my flying has been solo or with one passenger anyway, retired with grown kids mostly on the other coast. The MG idea would not work for everyone, but it seems like it would work for me better than my current plane does. And the FAA rules allow night and IFR in a properly equiped MG without a medical. May be valuable as I get older. Thanks for any advice or comments on feasability. And if anyone is doing something similar, I would love to hear from you. Dwight B. Van Zanen 22426 262 Ave. SE Maple Valley, WA 98038 (425) 432-2213 dbvz(at)hotmail.com [http://www.pilotsofamerica.com/forum/images/smilies/upload1/blueplane.jpg] ________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
Date: Feb 06, 2010
On Feb 6, 2010, at 7:03 PM, Gary Leinberger wrote: > any mods greatly increase the build time - as I have learned the > hard way. Hey Gary...tis a slippery slope is it not? ...bet my mod list is longer than yours! Hang in there...you get enough snow this weekend? Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Re: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
Date: Feb 06, 2010
> I think,based on my mono with 914/Airmaster prop combo with aux alternator > and intercooler up front (around 175lbs.) and battery in back, that the > W&B would not work out if your diesel engine and prop are more than that. > Just too much weight forward on this airframe.. Kevin > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dwight Van Zanen <dbvz(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Thank You: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
Date: Feb 06, 2010
Thanks for the comments. I was not aware a BRS was a serious problem for t he Europa. Nothing I have flown has had it=2C but I thought it would be a nice add in an EXP. Scratch that. For the range=2C I was looking for the maximum fuel load with me in the pla ne and nothing else. In other words=2C useful load less 175 pounds all as fuel with the tankage for it. Not sure where to put it=2C so if anyone has done it that would be useful information. One thought was that the J.L. O sborne Inc. tip tanks (for like a Comanche) actually "lift themselves" sinc e the tanks and fuel weigh about the same as the additional gross weight pe rmitted when you add the tip tanks on a Comanche. The tip tanks improve th e wing performance and puts some weight on the "other end" of the wing wher e it actually helps with the stress forces at the wing roots. But I suspec t putting some weight out at the end of the MG wing may not be possible bec ause of structural issues. The turbo-diesel is obviously for altitude and fuel economy=2C but also for speed. For economy cruise it would be running at slightly less than 50% p ower. Speed or range=2C you can only get one. You can throttle back for m ore economy=2C but for more speed you have to have enough power to pull it along. The Europa performance sheet said 150kts at 10K with the Rotax 914 =2C and I expected a 120HP turbo-diesel to do as well for max speed=2C and better than the 914 for max range. I had looked at the WAM 120 because it has a peak power of 120HP=2C which i s why I asked if it is possible to increase useful load with more power. M any aircraft do. My Cherokee 180 has a higher max gross than the same airf rame with less power. Does the Rotax 914 allow a higher max gross than the 912? If tip tanks are not possible=2C perhaps the long wings with the WAM 120 would rate an adjustment to the maximum gross? I am not sure how much freedom the builder has to make these adjustments. Piper does it=2C but t hey have an engineering staff to justify it. The STC for the Osborne tips provdes for a gross weight increase=2C but they went through some steps to prove the design. At this point I am mostly looking for comments on the feasability of this u sing the Europa MG as the platform. So far it seems to be the best option =2C and where it can not be stretched to fit all the ideas (like the BRS) I would scale back as necessary. I am just looking for the extent that the optimum dream machine would need to be scaled back=2C using the Europa=3B b efore making any decisions about getting started. Thanks again for the com ments. Dwight B. Van Zanen 22426 262 Ave. SE Maple Valley=2C WA 98038 (425) 432-2213 dbvz(at)hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Dwight Van Zanen <dbvz(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
Date: Feb 06, 2010
Oops. This is the engine information: http://www.wilksch.com/wam-120.html 127kg would be 280 pounds. Dwight B. Van Zanen 22426 262 Ave. SE Maple Valley=2C WA 98038 (425) 432-2213 dbvz(at)hotmail.com > From: kevann(at)gotsky.com > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG? > Date: Sat=2C 6 Feb 2010 21:08:15 -0800 > > > > > I think=2Cbased on my mono with 914/Airmaster prop combo with aux alter nator > > and intercooler up front (around 175lbs.) and battery in back=2C that t he > > W&B would not work out if your diesel engine and prop are more than tha t. > > Just too much weight forward on this airframe.. > > Kevin > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft=92s powerful SPAM protection. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "craig bastin" <craigb(at)onthenet.com.au>
Subject: Re: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
Date: Feb 07, 2010
If you are talking a trade off of baggage for fuel, and you run the 1470 lb MTOW that some of the non UK builders are running then you could add another 60kg (possibly more depending on empty weight) of fuel in the baggage bay, just have to watch the CofG is ok, which would about double your fuel load, which based on your 3 gph would give you about 12hrs endurance, question is would you want to go that long without being able to stretch the legs. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dwight Van Zanen Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 4:04 PM To: europa-list matronics Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG? Oops. This is the engine information: http://www.wilksch.com/wam-120.html 127kg would be 280 pounds. Dwight B. Van Zanen 22426 262 Ave. SE Maple Valley, WA 98038 (425) 432-2213 dbvz(at)hotmail.com > From: kevann(at)gotsky.com > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG? > Date: Sat, 6 Feb 2010 21:08:15 -0800 > > > > I think,based on my mono with 914/Airmaster prop combo with aux alternator > > and intercooler up front (around 175lbs.) and battery in back, that the > > W&B would not work out if your diesel engine and prop are more than that. > > Just too much weight forward on this airframe.. > > Kevin > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful1/' target='_new'>Sign up now. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Europa and WAM
Date: Feb 07, 2010
From: "David Corbett" <DCorbett(at)corbettfarms.co.uk>
My Europa monowheel, with a Rotax 912UL, is parked next to an RV9A with a WAM 120. The RV9A is group owned; the group leader is abroad at the moment (Until March) but I could get performance information from him when he returns. However, the aircraft is not yet fitted with its final cowlings, and therefore its present figures are somewhat degraded. David G-BZAM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Thank You: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 07, 2010
max gross wt has little to do with engine output for experimental a/c and a lot to do with structural limits. Homebuilts do not need to certify to part 23 performance stds. No tip tanks for Europas without considerable re-engineering. Maybe some basic reading in aerodynamic structures and aerodynamics might be helpful for you -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285206#285206 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
Date: Feb 07, 2010
Dwight, With respect to the tri-gear MG portion of your quest, you might introduce yourself to Rob Neils who is based near Spokane; Rob flies one, I believe w/ a 914. His email is: RobNeils(at)Q.com Fred PS: I'm up on Orcas Island ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Subject: Re: Lifting the Europa
Date: Feb 07, 2010
Folks, I just wanted to thank everyone that replied on the above subject. In the short term I used an engine hoist and nylon webbing lashed around the two upper members of the landing gear/engine mount frame that protrude through the firewall. I worked fine. Long term though I want one of the jacks like the one Bob Borger has on his build page. I think I can adapt it for my Classic. Thanks again for this great forum. Troy Plane finished, waiting better weather and a bit more stick time for first flight. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG?
Date: Feb 08, 2010
From: "Terry Seaver (terrys)" <terrys(at)cisco.com>
Hi Gary, Dwight, My partner, Dave DeFord, and I have a monowheel XS with the 912S and Airmaster prop. We built it first with short wings, with our first flight in 2001. We have since built the long wings, and have been flying with them about two years now. Even with the relatively light 912S, we are a little nose heavy with the long wings on. We were warned by Dave Anderson that we might need some ballast in the tail when we switched to the long wings, and he was right. Installing a diesel weighing considerably more would create serious weight and balance problems. As far as registration, our plane was registered as a homebuilt aircraft, not necessarily SEL. When we talked to our FAA examiner about re-registering the plane as a motorglider, he said we only needed to send him a letter describing the change to the plane, and he would sign it off and send it back to us, requiring a nominal fly off of a few hours. If it is flown as an SEL and the pilot is legal to fly SEL, then that is what it is. If is equipped consistent with a motorglider, and the pilot has the proper rating, then it is a motorglider. Theoretically, if we put a rotor mast on it, and get the proper rating, it could also be an autogiro (after sending our FAA examiner a description of the change and getting a sign off from him). Regards, Terry Seaver -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary Leinberger Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 7:04 PM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG? It is a good project idea - I am building my Europa MG tri-gear with full IFR with the same ideas . I have both sets of wings but will fly first with the short ones. I did think about a bigger engine but settled on the 912S. Unlike hot rods - more power is not necessarily good - there are very real problems of weight and balance as well as structural strength with a bigger engine - as well as handling. And more power won't necessarily translate into more speed or performance. There is also a safety issue - besides weight and balance. The airfoil, wing area and stabilators are designed for certain speeds and weight - fly at over the weight limit or speed limit and very bad things can happen. The plane as designed is very nice, and any mods greatly increase the build time - as I have learned the hard way. As for only two seats - I can only think of a few trips in 38 years of flying where I had more than 2 people in a plane. I looked at attaching a BRS (I have one in my Kitfox Lite) but it would require a complete re-engineering of the airplane. And in the Europa (as in the SR-22) use of the chute destroys the plane. Better to build and fly so you don't need it - and it only helps in very limited situations (like an in-flight structural failure at altitude - it won't help in situations where most accidents happen - take-offs and landings - since the chute can't deploy fast enough.) Realize that with the glider wings the carrying weight is reduced as the wings weigh, I think, 100 pounds more than the short wings. Be sure you register the plane as a motor glider even if you build the short wings first as it is very difficult to change the classification after registering as a SEL. There is a guy in Utah or Nevada that flies up to 22,000 ft. in his "Mini-U2" with oxygen. I think he has the 914 Turbo. I think his name is Dave Anderson(?). He had a web site that was pretty good. It may still be on the club site. I would suggest the high top and extra width mod (I am 6 ft tall and have wide shoulders) - this also gives you a higher windshield that greatly increases the viewing area. And it appears to not hurt performance. Gary Leinberger A237 ________________________________________ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of craig bastin [craigb(at)onthenet.com.au] Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 6:59 PM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG? I would suggest you have a look at the MGL EFIS panels, which will give you the IFR, autopilot gear you need, at a great price compared to most of the others. The Smart 1.5l turbo diesel comes in at 95hp, which is about the same as the rotax engines, fuel consumption runs to about 5 litres an hours good luck, sounds like a good project. craig -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dwight Van Zanen Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 5:47 AM Subject: Europa-List: Diesel Europa tri-gear MG? I am new to this system of communication. If you can direct me to somewhere to get this information, please let me know. I have been interested in a Europa for some time and would like your advice on the feasability of a diesel tri-gear, long wing; with aux fuel tank, IFR GPS coupled to autopilot with altitude hold, BRS and oxygen systems. I have looked into the WAM 120 from Weisch Airmotive, but open to alternatives. I am in the USA where an Experimental glider can be flown without a medical, night and IFR if properly equipped. Here are some reasons for my question: 1. Long range: Use a turbo-diesel at 3gph, aux tank, perhaps 2000NM in economy cruise? 3. GPS direct: 4. Low fuel cost: See #1 5. More safety in a SEL: great power-off glide, diesel fuel, add a BRS 6. Easier to make modifications: EXP, pretty simple systems 7. Cheaper for maintenance: Do it yourself mostly 8. Steady IFR platform: wingspan of 47.25 feet 9. Higher altitudes: turbo-diesel, add oxygen system 10. Remove the wings, take it home in a trailer. No hangar rental. 11. Higher speeds: 150kts TAS @ 10k, turbo for altitude. 12. No medical required for a registered glider in the USA, even for night and IFR if equipped. And on the negatives: 13. Reduced to 2 seats. Solo for long range flights. Possible to increase useful load with more power? 14. Initial cost to buy/build and set it up the way I want it. 15. Necessity of getting the glider rating and self-launch endorsement. 16. No toilet. Not needed with my current plane, but Porta-John works. 17. ? I know some people consider EXP a negative, but see 1-12... Most of my flying has been solo or with one passenger anyway, retired with grown kids mostly on the other coast. The MG idea would not work for everyone, but it seems like it would work for me better than my current plane does. And the FAA rules allow night and IFR in a properly equiped MG without a medical. May be valuable as I get older. Thanks for any advice or comments on feasability. And if anyone is doing something similar, I would love to hear from you. Dwight B. Van Zanen 22426 262 Ave. SE Maple Valley, WA 98038 (425) 432-2213 dbvz(at)hotmail.com [http://www.pilotsofamerica.com/forum/images/smilies/upload1/blueplane.j pg] ________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft's powerful SPAM protection. href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http://www.matronh ref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2010
Subject: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi group. We are working on instrument module at moment. We have a Garmin 295 and was wondering if anyone has mounted the antenna to the underside of the top of the instrument module just about above the gear lever cutout? Bout how far aft of firewall? Any input would be appreciared. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2010
Subject: Instrument module cooling/demisting
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi group We are thinking about mounting four baby30mm cooling fans flush with the top surface of the instrument module. Two above comm and transponder and two above dynon D10A. Figure they would help get a little heat out from under panel and perhaps help a little with demisting. Each fan moves ~ 3CFM. Any comments appreciated. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2010
From: <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module
Hi Ron I have located my two antenna in the roof space between the doors, Garmin 295 and Skyforce 3c, Both work well directly through the roof, No problems with signal strength or Blanking of signal, Ivor : > > > Hi group. > We are working on instrument module at moment. > We have a Garmin 295 and was wondering if anyone has mounted the antenna > to the underside of the top of the instrument module just about above the > gear lever cutout? > Bout how far aft of firewall? > Any input would > be appreciared. > Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Parkin" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module
Date: Feb 08, 2010
I have a skymap 3c with the antenna mounted underneath the top of the instrument panel as you describe. It has worked flawlessly for 8 years. Regards, Mike (Finally the weight of the paper has reached the AUW of the aircraft. G-JULZ is at last 'Hot to Trot', just need the weather to agree now'. > Hi group. > We are working on instrument module at moment. > We have a Garmin 295 and was wondering if anyone has mounted the antenna > to the underside of the top of the instrument module just about above the > gear lever cutout? > Bout how far aft of firewall? > Any input would > be appreciared. > Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Fuel tank graph
Date: Feb 08, 2010
Cheers, For whatever use it may be, I have added a measured fuel tank contents graph to the Europa Owners Gallery 2. I am on third page halfway down, and the image is number 9 (there is no number 8 for some reason), entitled "fueltankgraf.bmp", so fairly lengthy. I'll try to shorten it to '.jpg' when time allows. The image includes two values for each depth of fuel, one for horizontal flight, the other for 9deg tail-down - ground values. Component built dates are included in case the tank has changed much. Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david miller <loboloda(at)execulink.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting
Date: Feb 08, 2010
Hi Ron, I doubt that you need that many, I've got just one small fan installed, don't know how much air it moves, but it does quite a good job of de-misting. Dave C-FBZI On 8-Feb-10, at 2:01 PM, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > Hi group > We are thinking about mounting four baby 30mm cooling fans flush > with the top surface of the instrument module. Two above comm and > transponder and two above dynon D10A. Figure they would help get a > little heat out from under panel and perhaps help a little with > demisting. Each fan moves ~ 3CFM. > Any comments appreciated. > Ron Parigoris > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2010
Subject: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Dave "I doubt that you need that many, I've got just one small fan installed, don't know how much air it moves, but it does quite a good job of de-misting." Thx. for the reply. What's the aprox square size of your fan you have installed? The onesI am thinking about are 30mm x 30mm (under 1+1/4" square). Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2010
Subject: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Dave "I doubt that you need that many, I've got just one small faninstalled, don't know how much air it moves, but it does quite a good job of de-misting." Thx. for the reply. About what size square is your single fan? The ones I am interested in are 30mm square (less than 1+1/4"). In addition to demisting,I want to keep some heat off of Becker Com and Transponder, and off Dynon D10A. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 08, 2010
Yes Ron, the CRP of the panel is transparent to GPS unless you re-did your panel in carbon fiber. The plexi windshield is also transparent to GPS. Unless you metalized your firewall, it too is essentially transparent. GPS Antennas are not supposed to "see" down to the horizon, in fact most receivers with ignore satellites within 5-10 degrees of the horizon ("the masking angle") by orbital calculation in order to avoid atmospheric distortions of the signal. Since your engine is below the inside ceiling of the panel, the existence of the engine is a non-factor as well. My GPS puck is attached to the ceiling of my panel with industrial grade double sided foam tape. Ivor, your solution requires extra length of coax cable and a connection to be broken whenever you need to pull the panel out of the fuse. Extra coax length and in particular, extra coax connections are extremely hurtful to GPS signal strength. -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285472#285472 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting
Date: Feb 08, 2010
Ron, No problem with only using one each fan. D-10s need to stay below 120F so that should be fine. As for GPS antennas, in the 4 or 5 I have installed, it is best to fashion an aluminum piece shaped like a U for the active antenna to sit on glued right to the top of the inside of the panel. The antenna sits in the trough of the U and provides a nice out of the way place to stick it. All the Garmin, GRT, Blue Mountain and Anywhere Map units work better with that little piece of aluminum. That technique was recommended by my Garmin Distributor. It has always worked for me. Try it...Doesn't cost anything but a thin 4 inch piece of aluminum. Bud Yerly Custom Flight Creations ----- Original Message ----- From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us<mailto:rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> To: Europa Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 2:01 PM Subject: Europa-List: Instrument module cooling/demisting Hi group We are thinking about mounting four baby 30mm cooling fans flush with the top surface of the instrument module. Two above comm and transponder and two above dynon D10A. Figure they would help get a little heat out from under panel and perhaps help a little with demisting. Each fan moves ~ 3CFM. Any comments appreciated. Ron Parigoris http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2010
From: jimpuglise(at)comcast.net
Subject: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting
Ron- I mounted my GPS antennas as Bud suggests but instead of aluminum, I wrappe d a 2X4 with packaging tape and used it as a mold to make the brackets of B ID.=C2- I made one about 6 inches long, cut it into two three inches or s o each and floxed both to the inside of the instrument panel.=C2- I used one for the GPS antenna and the other for the satelliet radio antenna.=C2 - I cut my coax to about 18 inches so I can easily remove the GPS and sti ll leave everything plugged in and powered up.=C2- Jim Puglise A-283 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com> Sent: Monday, February 8, 2010 5:30:13 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: Europa-List: Instrument module cooling/demisting Ron, No problem with only using one each fan.=C2- D-10s need to stay below 120 F so that should be fine.=C2- As for GPS antennas, in the 4 or 5 I have i nstalled, it is best to fashion an aluminum piece shaped like a U for the a ctive antenna to sit on glued right to the top of the inside of the panel. =C2- The antenna sits in the trough of the U and provides a nice out of t he way place to stick it.=C2-=C2-All the Garmin, GRT, Blue Mountain and =C2-Anywhere Map units=C2-work better with that little piece of aluminu m.=C2- That technique was recommended by my Garmin Distributor.=C2- It has always worked for me.=C2- Try it...Doesn't cost anything but a thin 4 inch piece of aluminum. Bud Yerly Custom Flight Creations ----- Original Message ----- From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 2:01 PM Subject: Europa-List: Instrument module cooling/demisting Hi group We are thinking about mounting four baby=C2-30mm cooling fans flush with the top surface of the instrument module. Two above comm and transponder an d two above dynon D10A. Figure they would help get a little heat out from u nder panel and perhaps help a little with demisting. Each fan moves ~ 3CFM. Any comments appreciated. Ron Parigoris href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List">http: //www.matronhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.co m href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c == ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Martin Boyle" <martinboyle53(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Mono wheel conversion
Date: Feb 09, 2010
Hi To All I have purchased a part built mono wheel kit and may want to convert it to TRI gear.When I do this can I remove the consol in the middle as I find there is not enough room for me as I am 6ft3in tall and 96kg.Has anybody done this and ois it a factory mod Thanks M A B MAB123 Registered User Posts: 1 Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:34 pm a.. Private message ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2010
From: Graham Singleton <grahamsingleton(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Mono wheel conversion
On 08/02/2010 23:24, Martin Boyle wrote: > Hi To All > I have purchased a part built mono wheel kit and may want to convert > it to TRI gear.When I do this can I remove the consol in the middle as > I find there is not enough room for me as I am 6ft3in tall and > 96kg.Has anybody done this and ois it a factory mod > Thanks M A B Martin not a good idea, the central tunnel contributes a lot of bending stiffness and compression strength to the fuselage, (apologise for clumsy termionology) Think about nosewheel loads and main wheel/wing weight loads. This part of the fuselage is a beam. Mods have been done, there is a mod to slim it down in the hips area but needs care. Graham ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 08, 2010
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Mono wheel conversion
The short answer is no. The tunnel is structural, however, it can be cut down to some extent, between the seats... Jeff Martin Boyle wrote: > Hi To All > I have purchased a part built mono wheel kit and may want to convert it > to TRI gear.When I do this can I remove the consol in the middle as I > find there is not enough room for me as I am 6ft3in tall and 96kg.Has > anybody done this and ois it a factory mod > Thanks M A B > > MAB123 > <http://www.europaowners.org/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=708> > Registered User > *Posts:* 1 > *Joined:* Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:34 pm > > * Private message > <http://www.europaowners.org/forums/ucp.php?i=pm&mode=compose&action=quotepost&p=25293> > > > * > > > * > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Garry Stout" <garrys(at)tampabay.rr.com>
Subject: Mono wheel conversion
Date: Feb 08, 2010
I was told by Ivan Shaw that the center console is in integral structural item, and CANNOT be removed. You can narrow it's width, and reduce its height somewhat, but some structural portion....maybe 75%? Must remain. Garry Stout From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Martin Boyle Hi To All I have purchased a part built mono wheel kit and may want to convert it to TRI gear.When I do this can I remove the consol in the middle as I find there is not enough room for me as I am 6ft3in tall and 96kg.Has anybody done this and ois it a factory mod Thanks M A B ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2010
From: "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr>
Subject: Re: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module
X-mailer: Foxmail 6, 15, 201, 22 [cn] Hello, ron I install two antennas for my 495 GPS : The first (Garmin) is bonded inside the skin on the roof of the fuselage between the doors before I dismantling the antenna plastic box, and extracting the electronic element. The second antenna from Furuno (is exactly same of Garmin) is bonded on the top of panel inside the skin. I send to you pictures of these antennas. Good day Michel Builder 145 - 350 hdv 09-02-2010 mau11 De : rparigor Date/heure : 08-02-2010 20:11:07 A : Europa Cc : Sujet : Europa-List: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module Hi group. We are working on instrument module at moment. We have a Garmin 295 and was wondering if anyone has mounted the antenna to the underside of the top of the instrument module just about above the gear lever cutout? Bout how far aft of firewall? Any input would be appreciared. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2010
From: "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr>
Subject: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting
X-mailer: Foxmail 6, 15, 201, 22 [cn] Hi Ron if you have pictures of fan cooling installation I am interested. Thanks 09-02-2010 mau11 De : rparigor Date/heure : 08-02-2010 23:25:56 A : Europa Cc : Sujet : Re: Europa-List: Instrument module cooling/demisting Hi Dave "I doubt that you need that many, I've got just one small fan installed, don't know how much air it moves, but it does quite a good job of de-misting." Thx. for the reply. What's the aprox square size of your fan you have installed? The ones I am thinking about are 30mm x 30mm (under 1+1/4" square). Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 09, 2010
From: "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr>
Subject: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting
X-mailer: Foxmail 6, 15, 201, 22 [cn] Sorry Ron I omit pictures! 09-02-2010 mau11 De : rparigor Date/heure : 08-02-2010 23:25:56 A : Europa Cc : Sujet : Re: Europa-List: Instrument module cooling/demisting Hi Dave "I doubt that you need that many, I've got just one small fan installed, don't know how much air it moves, but it does quite a good job of de-misting." Thx. for the reply. What's the aprox square size of your fan you have installed? The ones I am thinking about are 30mm x 30mm (under 1+1/4" square). Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Feb 09, 2010
Hi Mau11 "if you have pictures of fan cooling installation I am interested." I have a few different fans on order from Newark and Mouser to fool with. I will post details and pics once I get it all figured out. As far as GPS placement, we fooled tonight with reception and for certain having an aluminium backing on antenna makes for better reception (thanks Bud for suggesting reception is better with a groundplane). I found that specifications for antenna reception on Garmin 296 is in fact with a square 70CM groundplane installed. Anyway I am going to use the aluminium bracket that came with antenna, removed the suction cups and drilled 3 holes to make a 3 legged stool out of it. Then I screwed 3 drawer wood pull handles to the bracket (handles have metal inserts) and shaped to fit inside bottom of top port side of panel. Once I have my cooling fans installed I canl JB KWIK in place 3 wood standoffs for antenna mount. Once JB KWIK is cured (4 minutes) will put a flox/Aeropoxy/30 minute hardener fillet around wood standoffs. BTW we tested GPS reception tonight. We covered antenna with fiberglass (both epoxy and whatever ester instrument module is made out of), plexiglass and firewall pheonelic stuff. It degrades performance a little, but even covered with all this stuff as long as a groundplane was below antenna, reception was a tad better compared to the finger sized antenna connected direct to 296. Ron Parigoris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285573#285573 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Mono wheel conversion
Date: Feb 09, 2010
Martin As others have said the tunnel is structurally important. The attached PDF shows the reduction I made on my aircraft. The important dimensions are the 5' and 7' shown in the section part of the drawing. I have the full engineering calculations which show that this leave plenty of strength in the tunnel. These dimensions could probable be reduced to 4' and 5' but I do not have calculations for these. I hope this helps Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 280 hours Europa Club Mods Rep e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting
Date: Feb 09, 2010
Ron, A single inexpensive fan mounted in the under surface of the shelf (where it is out of sight above the passenger's legs), with a row of holes under the windscreen on pilot's side, has worked well as both cooler & demister for me. Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 8:00 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting > > > Hi Mau11 > "if you have pictures of fan cooling installation I am interested." > I have a few different fans on order from Newark and Mouser to fool with. > I will post details and pics once I get it all figured out. > As far as GPS placement, we fooled tonight with reception and for certain > having an aluminium backing on antenna makes for better reception (thanks > Bud for suggesting reception is better with a groundplane). I found that > specifications for antenna reception on Garmin 296 is in fact with a > square 70CM groundplane installed. Anyway I am going to use the aluminium > bracket that came with antenna, removed the suction cups and drilled 3 > holes to make a 3 legged stool out of it. Then I screwed 3 drawer wood > pull handles to the bracket (handles have metal inserts) and shaped to fit > inside bottom of top port side of panel. Once I have my cooling fans > installed I canl JB KWIK in place 3 wood standoffs for antenna mount. Once > JB KWIK is cured (4 minutes) will put a flox/Aeropoxy/30 minute hardener > fillet around wood standoffs. > BTW we tested GPS reception tonight. We covered antenna with fiberglass > (both epoxy and whatever ester instrument module is made out of), > plexiglass and firewall pheonelic stuff. It degrades performance a little, > but even covered with all this stuff as long as a groundplane was below > antenna, reception was a tad better compared to the finger sized antenna > connected direct to 296. > Ron Parigoris > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285573#285573 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting
Date: Feb 09, 2010
The attached is a view of the top of my panel. The fan works well as a demister and removes any excess heat from the panel The GPS aerial gets a very slightly better signal as it is not under the panel The mount on top is for the PCAS unit we have. I hope this might give you some ideas. BTW I have repainted it since this picture was taken. Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 280 hours Europa Club Mods Rep e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Duncan & Ami McFadyean" <ami(at)mcfadyean.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Mono wheel conversion
Date: Feb 09, 2010
Ian, Does this mod work for a monowheel-to-tri-gear conversion? Which would differ by having the monowheel cut-out still present (whether covered with a screwed-on non structural cover or not), or just for the tri-gear that has the underside still intact? I think this needs to be made clear. Rgds., Duncan McF. ----- Original Message ----- From: G-IANI To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 10:00 AM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mono wheel conversion Martin As others have said the tunnel is structurally important. The attached PDF shows the reduction I made on my aircraft. The important dimensions are the 5' and 7' shown in the section part of the drawing. I have the full engineering calculations which show that this leave plenty of strength in the tunnel. These dimensions could probable be reduced to 4' and 5' but I do not have calculations for these. I hope this helps Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 280 hours Europa Club Mods Rep e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Mono wheel conversion
Date: Feb 09, 2010
Duncan >From the calculations done by Barry Mellers the "floor" is of no consequence. So they are equally applicable to a Trigear, with or without an access panel or a converted Mono with a cover panel. The point to note is that the tunnel must still have a "top" on it. Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 280 hours Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear) e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duncan & Ami McFadyean Sent: 09 February 2010 19:38 Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mono wheel conversion Ian, Does this mod work for a monowheel-to-tri-gear conversion? Which would differ by having the monowheel cut-out still present (whether covered with a screwed-on non structural cover or not), or just for the tri-gear that has the underside still intact? I think this needs to be made clear. Rgds., Duncan McF. ----- Original Message ----- From: G-IANI <mailto:g-iani(at)ntlworld.com> Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 2010 10:00 AM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mono wheel conversion Martin As others have said the tunnel is structurally important. The attached PDF shows the reduction I made on my aircraft. The important dimensions are the 5' and 7' shown in the section part of the drawing. I have the full engineering calculations which show that this leave plenty of strength in the tunnel. These dimensions could probable be reduced to 4' and 5' but I do not have calculations for these. I hope this helps Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 280 hours Europa Club Mods Rep e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: david miller <loboloda(at)execulink.com>
Subject: Re: Instrument module cooling/demisting
Date: Feb 09, 2010
Hi Ron, It was a 2" fan, very similar to Ian's in respect to size and location, intended for cooling, de-misting was a secondary consideration. Dave On 8-Feb-10, at 5:12 PM, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > Hi Dave > "I doubt that you need that many, I've got just one small fan > installed, don't know how much air it moves, but it does quite a > good job of de-misting." > Thx. for the reply. About what size square is your single fan? The > ones I am interested in are 30mm square (less than 1+1/4"). > In addition to demisting, I want to keep some heat off of Becker > Com and Transponder, and off Dynon D10A. > Ron Parigoris > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Mono wheel conversion
Date: Feb 10, 2010
Martin, Not to pile on, but I have fit a number of large pilots to the Europa. It has been my experience, that the only area of the tunnel that is a nuisance to the tall pilot is the area where the knee hits center console. A football shaped cutout there is typically all that is needed. I have seen some Europa's with the console cut down very low, and I share the comments with others that a lot of stiffness of the fuselage is given up by cutting down this area. You are compromising the aircraft. The Europa provides more than reasonable protection as is. Short story: On two nose low (25 degree impacts in landing accidents) one with the full console, the other was cut down a modest 3-4 inches. On both the floor of the fuselage behind the rudders flexed, which compromised that area. One aircraft had under the door electrical conduits installed of 4 layers of glass measuring roughly 3 inches deep and level with the sill and a full console, with a cut out where the throttle would be. This area was glassed in with a flange of 4 layers of 8 oz bid and a cover panel of 6-8 layers of bid. It maintained very good fuselage stiffness with only nose damage when the nose gear failed after about the 4th porpoise. The floor had a minor deformity in the glass from flexing, but was easily repaired. The pilot opened the door and stepped out. The other aircraft actually split the fuselage side 6 inches forward of the door sill when the fuselage floor flexed. The console was cut down some 4 inches beginning below the instrument panel face continuing all the way back to the bulkhead and had no under sill conduits. The side of the fuselage cracked due to the nose flexing downward. Some foot injuries were incurred as the fuselage flexed to the point of cracking from the consol up to the windscreen. Foot injury occurred as a result of the rudder pedals deflecting as the fuselage skidded along. Both accidents were pilot error and no names will be released so don't ask. It would be best to make a modest console adjustment to fit your form. I have found for pilots your size that the hi top mod 63 is very comfortable and the extra width mod 67 is also a must have. If your kit is too far along for the high top, the bubble door glass is one of my favorite mods also. These higher top mods allow you to slide aft a bit and get another inch of headroom and less knee height. All the above can be purchased through the company. I know I'm kicking myself for not doing the width increase as it is quite comfortable. The high top is quite impressive. As for how to re-establish strength in your console after cutting it out, please properly prep and add foam to fill the void, prep the foam and add two layers of bid overlapping two inches around the hole on the inside and out... As for the hole in the bottom, consider adding a bulkhead behind the nose gear of 1/8 inch (3mm) aircraft ply and glassing it in with two layers. This is a help to stiffening the plane also besides allowing for a generous cooling air exit if the mono wheel firewall is removed. Be sure to protect the new bulkhead and console inside exposed to the engine with firewall material of your choice. Then close the bottom hole, and if you like, add a large inspection hole on the bottom for maintenance of in console items. A glassed in hole adds for stiffness and impact strength also. Top it off with a back cushion about 1 inch thick or 1/2 inch of firm foam and a contoured seat cushion to suite and you will be comfortable. Bud Yerly Custom Flight Creations, US Europa Dealer ----- Original Message ----- From: Martin Boyle<mailto:martinboyle53(at)bigpond.com> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 6:24 PM Subject: Europa-List: Mono wheel conversion Hi To All I have purchased a part built mono wheel kit and may want to convert it to TRI gear.When I do this can I remove the consol in the middle as I find there is not enough room for me as I am 6ft3in tall and 96kg.Has anybody done this and ois it a factory mod Thanks M A B MAB123<http://www.europaowners.org/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofi le&u=708> Registered User Posts: 1 Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:34 pm a.. Private message<http://www.europaowners.org/forums/ucp.php?i=pm&mode=compose& action=quotepost&p=25293> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Martin Boyle" <martinboyle53(at)bigpond.com>
Subject: Re: Europa-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/10/10
Date: Feb 11, 2010
Thank you for your advise it is appreciated and I will act on it Martin --- Original Message ----- From: "Europa-List Digest Server" <europa-list(at)matronics.com> Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 5:57 PM Subject: Europa-List Digest: 1 Msgs - 02/10/10 > * > > ================================================= > Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive > ================================================= > > Today's complete Europa-List Digest can also be found in either of the > two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted > in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes > and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version > of the Europa-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor > such as Notepad or with a web browser. > > HTML Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 10-02-10&Archive=Europa > > Text Version: > > > http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 10-02-10&Archive=Europa > > > =============================================== > EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive > =============================================== > > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Europa-List Digest Archive > --- > Total Messages Posted Wed 02/10/10: 1 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > Today's Message Index: > ---------------------- > > 1. 04:18 PM - Re: Mono wheel conversion (Bud Yerly) > > > ________________________________ Message 1 > _____________________________________ > > > From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mono wheel conversion > > Martin, > Not to pile on, but I have fit a number of large pilots to the Europa. > It has been my experience, that the only area of the tunnel that is a > nuisance to the tall pilot is the area where the knee hits center > console. A football shaped cutout there is typically all that is > needed. I have seen some Europa's with the console cut down very low, > and I share the comments with others that a lot of stiffness of the > fuselage is given up by cutting down this area. You are compromising > the aircraft. The Europa provides more than reasonable protection as > is. Short story: On two nose low (25 degree impacts in landing > accidents) one with the full console, the other was cut down a modest > 3-4 inches. On both the floor of the fuselage behind the rudders > flexed, which compromised that area. One aircraft had under the door > electrical conduits installed of 4 layers of glass measuring roughly 3 > inches deep and level with the sill and a full console, with a cut out > where the throttle would be. This area was glassed in with a flange of > 4 layers of 8 oz bid and a cover panel of 6-8 layers of bid. It > maintained very good fuselage stiffness with only nose damage when the > nose gear failed after about the 4th porpoise. The floor had a minor > deformity in the glass from flexing, but was easily repaired. The pilot > opened the door and stepped out. The other aircraft actually split the > fuselage side 6 inches forward of the door sill when the fuselage floor > flexed. The console was cut down some 4 inches beginning below the > instrument panel face continuing all the way back to the bulkhead and > had no under sill conduits. The side of the fuselage cracked due to the > nose flexing downward. Some foot injuries were incurred as the fuselage > flexed to the point of cracking from the consol up to the windscreen. > Foot injury occurred as a result of the rudder pedals deflecting as the > fuselage skidded along. Both accidents were pilot error and no names > will be released so don't ask. > > It would be best to make a modest console adjustment to fit your form. > I have found for pilots your size that the hi top mod 63 is very > comfortable and the extra width mod 67 is also a must have. If your kit > is too far along for the high top, the bubble door glass is one of my > favorite mods also. These higher top mods allow you to slide aft a bit > and get another inch of headroom and less knee height. All the above > can be purchased through the company. I know I'm kicking myself for not > doing the width increase as it is quite comfortable. The high top is > quite impressive. > > As for how to re-establish strength in your console after cutting it > out, please properly prep and add foam to fill the void, prep the foam > and add two layers of bid overlapping two inches around the hole on the > inside and out... As for the hole in the bottom, consider adding a > bulkhead behind the nose gear of 1/8 inch (3mm) aircraft ply and > glassing it in with two layers. This is a help to stiffening the plane > also besides allowing for a generous cooling air exit if the mono wheel > firewall is removed. Be sure to protect the new bulkhead and console > inside exposed to the engine with firewall material of your choice. > Then close the bottom hole, and if you like, add a large inspection hole > on the bottom for maintenance of in console items. A glassed in hole > adds for stiffness and impact strength also. > > Top it off with a back cushion about 1 inch thick or 1/2 inch of firm > foam and a contoured seat cushion to suite and you will be comfortable. > > Bud Yerly > Custom Flight Creations, > US Europa Dealer > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Martin Boyle<mailto:martinboyle53(at)bigpond.com> > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Sent: Monday, February 08, 2010 6:24 PM > Subject: Europa-List: Mono wheel conversion > > > Hi To All > I have purchased a part built mono wheel kit and may want to convert > it to TRI gear.When I do this can I remove the consol in the middle as I > find there is not enough room for me as I am 6ft3in tall and 96kg.Has > anybody done this and ois it a factory mod > Thanks M A B > > MAB123<http://www.europaowners.org/forums/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofi > le&u=708> > Registered User > Posts: 1 > Joined: Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:34 pm > a.. Private > message<http://www.europaowners.org/forums/ucp.php?i=pm&mode=compose& > action=quotepost&p=25293> > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List > avigator?Europa-List> > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > on> > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 11, 2010
Subject: Oil Thermostat - X-Air's new version
From: Peter Zutrauen <peterz(at)zutrasoft.com>
I know there has been some discussion about oil thermostats recently on the forum. This new one from X-Air appears smaller/lighter than the automotive version I've seen in the past. Beyond that, I have no further info/experience. Cheers, Pete A239 *X-Air Australia Newsletter* ** Every now and again something new comes along which stops you in your track s because it is just such a good idea and a unique product. I have just come across one of these products and it's a specially designed thermostat system designed to regulate the oil temperature on engines like the Rotax and Jabiru. We are all aware of the damage which can be caused by running your aircraft engine oil temperature too low, in fact it has always been recommended to get the oil temperature just over 100=B0C during each flight to burn off th e water which can contaminate the engine oil, if you are flying time and time again and the engine temperature is only getting to say 85=B0C the water wi ll remain in your oil as a contaminant and can go on to destroy your engine with corrosion problems. Additionally, warmup is achieved very quickly on even the coldest of days because the thermostat diverts the oil flow from the oil cooler. Made in the USA these special oil thermostat units are designed to quickly allow your engine to reach and maintain its optimum operating temperature even on the coldest of days. CNC machined from 6061-T6 the unit is anodised with the type 2 surface finish to protect the thermostat long-term against corrosion. All of the hardware is aircraft grade and the oil thermostat unit is finished to the highest possible standards and is supplied with hose nipples to fit the mos t common oil tubing diameter used by Rotax and Jabiru. There are a number of benefits in using an oil thermostat in your aircraft which include fuel savings resulting from quick warmup times and engine operation at optimum oil temperature which also increases engine life because the engine is being operated at the correct oil temperature. *Stage 1* Cold oil: the internal oil bypass is open, allowing incoming oil to bypass the oil cooler and returned directly to the engine significantly reducing warmup time. *Stage 2* As the oil reaches the desired operating temperature the internal bypass partially closes, automatically regulating and controlling flow through bot h the internal bypass AND the external oil cooler so that desired operating temperature is maintained. *Stage 3* Hot oil: the internal bypass closes completely, directing 98% of the total oil flow through the oil cooler. Under these conditions, the all temperatur e is limited by the cooling capacity of the external oil cooler. I have been asked the same questions by most of the people I have shown thi s thermostat unit to... *Will it reduce my oil pressure?* The simple answer is no installing an oil temperature thermostat may slightly increase your oil pressure when it is most needed during cold starts. It offers a shorter, less restrictive flow path to the lubricating oil while the engine is cold. The cold oil bypasses the oil cooler and eliminating the small pressure drop that would otherwise occur. *Can it block the flow of oil?* No, it cannot block the flow of oil in an y circumstances whether operating normally or in a failed condition, it is impossible for the unit to block the flow of oil or the oil circuit. *What is the warranty period?* The warranty period of the oil thermostat is two years. *How big is the unit?* The unit is really small being 55mm high, 55mm long (without the hose barbs) and just 40mm deep, the unit can be bolted to the firewall or a bracket with the two 3/16" mounting holes. *Most important... The Cost?* The cost of the oil thermostat with oil hos e nipples is only $200 AU$ plug GST and delivery. More information through the Australian distributor X-Air Australia 07 5568 7770 or http://www.mcp.com.au/ ------------------------------ You are receiving this e-mail because you are subscribed to our newsletter service. If you do not wish to receive these e-mails any longer please repl y to this e-mail with the word *remove* in the subject line. I am peterz(at)zutrasoft.com. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Oil Thermostat - X-Air's new version
Date: Feb 11, 2010
Pete This is a very nicely made thermostat. but quite expensive. ConAir have decided to market it in the UK. I am just finishing off the Standard Mod application to the LAA for both this and the Permacool. The Permacool is a lot cheaper. Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 280 hours Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear) e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Demisting and GPS aerials
Date: Feb 10, 2010
From: "David Corbett" <DCorbett(at)corbettfarms.co.uk>
Here are two (almost) nil cost ways to cope with demisting: 1 Mount the panel on half inch (or similar) shock mounts, and as soon as you have done your power checks and got moving, the radio(s) heat convecting upwards through the resulting gap will keep you demisted. 2 If you get misted up before starting the take-off run, open the pilot door by an inch or two for a minute or two, and that will clear the initial mist-up. And - the GPS aerial for my GNS 430 is mounted on the roof, between the doors. David G-BZAM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike" <mp.gamble(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Bosch pressure switch
Date: Feb 11, 2010
I plan to use the bosch switch 0344 101 055 to sense low fuel pressure on my rotax 912 s. I need an adapter to connect the switch to the fuel hose. Does anyone know if such is available or, if not, then what is the thread on the switch body? Thanks Mike Gamble G-cfmp ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2010
Subject: Location for temperature sender/s
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Group Ihave an Ilec SC-7 variometer with ability to display temperature. It comes with one sender which is a little 3/16" cylinder with a flat on it. It's a pottedsemicondoctor. I was thinkingI could use multiple senders with a selector switch. What is your favorite location to place senderto detect OAT? Which location/s under cowl on a Europa is it desirable to know the temperatures of (Rotax 9124)? any other locations that may be desirable to know temp of? Under instrument module? Inside cockpit? (what location). Thx. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Location for temperature sender/s
Date: Feb 12, 2010
From: duanefamly(at)aol.com
Ron, I have Dyson D-100 and have mounted the OAT sensor inside the NACA vent in the left side of the lower cowl that feeds air to the airbox so I can mon itor for carb icing. Mike Duane Redding, California XS Conventional gear Jabiru 3300 -----Original Message----- From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us Sent: Thu, Feb 11, 2010 10:59 pm Subject: Europa-List: Location for temperature sender/s Hi Group I have an Ilec SC-7 variometer with ability to display temperature. It com es with one sender which is a little 3/16" cylinder with a flat on it. It' s a potted semicondoctor. I was thinking I could use multiple senders with a selector switch. What is your favorite location to place sender to dete ct OAT? Which location/s under cowl on a Europa is it desirable to know th e temperatures of (Rotax 9124)? any other locations that may be desirable to know temp of? Under instrument module? Inside cockpit? (what location) . Thx. Ron Parigoris ======================== =========== -= - The Europa-List Email Forum - -= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse -= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription, -= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ, -= Photoshare, and much much more: - -= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - -= Same great content also available via the Web Forums! - -= --> http://forums.matronics.com - -======================== ======================== =========== -= - List Contribution Web Site - -= Thank you for your generous support! -= -Matt Dralle, List Admin. -= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution -======================== ======================== =========== ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2010
From: <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Location for temperature sender/s
Hi Ron I first fitted my OAT sender directly between the two gear legs on my tri gear but found heat from the engine would give me a false reading, so last year moved it to behind the Starboard gear leg fairing and it works well now, On My 914 I also fitted a sender into the main inlet track to measure inlet air temps, there is a blanking plug already there and it gives you a heads up on thermal loads the engine is taking, ivor ---- rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > > > Hi Group > Ihave an Ilec SC-7 variometer with ability to display > temperature. It comes with one sender which is a little 3/16" > cylinder with a flat on it. It's a pottedsemicondoctor. I was > thinkingI could use multiple senders with a selector switch. What is > your favorite location to place senderto detect OAT? Which > location/s under cowl on a Europa is it desirable to know the temperatures > of (Rotax 9124)? any other locations that may be desirable to know temp > of? Under instrument module? Inside cockpit? (what location). > Thx. > Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "G-IANI" <g-iani(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Location for temperature sender/s
Date: Feb 12, 2010
Ron/Ivor I have a temperature sensor between the two gear legs on my tri gear and it seems to give reasonably accurate readings. Ivor, have you got any records of your air box temperature readings. I appreciate they will be quite complex given the variables of OAT and engine load. The reason I ask is to confirm there is virtually no chance of carb icing on the 914. Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 280 hours Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear) e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Subject: Location for temperature sender/s
Date: Feb 12, 2010
<<<<<<<< What is your favorite location to place senderto detect OAT? >>>>>>>> Hi Ron, With the 914, I had the OAT probe protuding behind the lower right NACA air intake. With the 912S I installed it inside the round air intake to the cylinder cooling air guide. In both cases the probe can be fitted so that it is not necessary to remove it nor disconnect the wiring when you remove the lower cowling. Both work very well in flight (I crossed checked the indicated temp with a thermometer temporary fitted through one of the cockpit vents). However, while on the ground, the temp is too much influenced by the engine heat and therefore is not usable. Remi Guerner ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Sidsel & Svein Johnsen" <sidsel.svein(at)oslo.online.no>
Subject: Location for temperature sender/s
Date: Feb 12, 2010
Ron, You may consider the same location as I have used: At the upper inboard edge of the left side NACA valve, which lets air into the cockpit. The probe is not influenced by engine heat and also out of direct sunshine. Svein LN-SKJ ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Re: Location for temperature sender/s
Date: Feb 12, 2010
I mounted my OAT probe inside the right wing root,aft of the spar. This location works well as it is far from the engine, and exhaust and not exposed to the sun. Ivor, where is this blanking plug on the 914 inlet? Kevin ----- Original Message ----- From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us To: Europa Sent: Thursday, February 11, 2010 10:59 PM Subject: Europa-List: Location for temperature sender/s Hi Group I have an Ilec SC-7 variometer with ability to display temperature. It comes with one sender which is a little 3/16" cylinder with a flat on it. It's a potted semicondoctor. I was thinking I could use multiple senders with a selector switch. What is your favorite location to place sender to detect OAT? Which location/s under cowl on a Europa is it desirable to know the temperatures of (Rotax 9124)? any other locations that may be desirable to know temp of? Under instrument module? Inside cockpit? (what location). Thx. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Location for temperature sender/s
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 12, 2010
After trying several locations on the cowl of my 912s, I can definitively say that the cowl is simply the wrong place if accuracy matters. My first location was through the most foward duct plate under the gear box. Despite the probe being well insulated from behind, the OAT would be up to 20F high in cruise flight Next location was the lower stbd vent, on a plate under the oil tank and just next to my cold cabin air inlet for the scat hose. It sits at least 10F high in flight. There have been several other locations chosen so I did not need a separate electrical connector for the temp probe in removing the cowl. All off from OAT, all rising with engine start. Once you fly, you will see anywhere under the fuse is a poor location by examining the trail of exhaust soot. Likewise, top of fuse is problematic due to sunlight. I think Kevin is on the right track. A good location which is also convenient to wire and connect is not a trivial exercise. I am still looking for a satisfactory location so that I can improve the reliability of my flight test data with accurate Density Altitude. -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286128#286128 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2010
From: <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Location for temperature sender/s
Hi Ian I havent kept any records as such but have monitored the temperature on a regular basis, It connects to a Dynon EMS 10 so gives me verbal warnings if it goes outside the parameters I set, Low 20C High 60C , I have only had a low temp warning on starting up then quite quickly rising to Mid 20C For normal flight, I have flown above 15000 ft with minus 5C OAT and an inlet temp of 44C thats the highest I have seen but still well below the intervention temperature The normal range for my plane is 27C to 37C at average heights of 5000 ft summer or winter, so in answer to your question I think it not possible to get carb ice with a 914, The Dynon EMS has a data log that I can download so will try and do that before taking the plane back to Biggin hill in march, Ivor > > Ron/Ivor > > I have a temperature sensor between the two gear legs on my tri gear and it > seems to give reasonably accurate readings. > > Ivor, have you got any records of your air box temperature readings. I > appreciate they will be quite complex given the variables of OAT and engine > load. The reason I ask is to confirm there is virtually no chance of carb > icing on the 914. > > Ian Rickard G-IANI XS Trigear, 280 hours > Europa Club Mods Rep (Trigear) > e-mail g-iani(at)ntlworld.com > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 12, 2010
From: <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Location for temperature sender/s
Hi Kevin its number 56 on the attached JPG Ivor ---- Kevin Klinefelter wrote: > I mounted my OAT probe inside the right wing root,aft of the spar. This location works well as it is far from the engine, and exhaust and not exposed to the sun. > > Ivor, where is this blanking plug on the 914 inlet? > > Kevin > ----- ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Location for temperature sender/s
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Feb 12, 2010
Hi Ivor Do you have an intercooler installed on your 914? I would imagine worst case for potential ice would be fine pitch or at least having the wind turn the prop with little to no throttle opening? Is that what you find? I would also imagine the second you begin to increase MP close to ambient pressure having the prop pull the aeroplane, the heating from turbo compressing air would raise temp above carb ice range. I owned a 1983 Volvo 245 turbo station wagon with a air cooled turbo very similar to 914 and it came from factory without an intercooler. In that configuration they stated temps would raise 145 degrees F over ambient. Once an intercooler was installed, temp would only raise 45 f over ambient, thus they would allow more boost. Anyway it was a standard shift. Two or three times pulling off parkway using a bit of engine braking had ice occur and had motor quit. For cetrtain ice was in the fuel flow regulator gizmo that was in the breeze after air cleaner, but before turbo charger. I never looked downstream but I suspect there was ice by throttle butterfly (this was fuel injected) because it felt like there was ice in there. Sitting for a few minutes had things melting and I was on my way. It would only happen when car was pushing engine, if power was commanded before motor quit all was fine after a hiccup or three. I installed intercooler. Ron Parigoris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286204#286204 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Location for temperature sender/s
Date: Feb 12, 2010
On Feb 12, 2010, at 6:06 AM, Kevin Klinefelter wrote: > I mounted my OAT probe inside the right wing root,aft of the spar. Kevin, Would that be "inside" the cavity in the wing, or within the space enclosed by the wing root fairing? Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Re: Location for temperature sender/s
Date: Feb 12, 2010
Fred, Within the space enclosed by the wing root fairing. I mounted it through the fuse at the outer layup for the crossbar. So the wires are inside the baggage bay. I ran them up to the rest of the wire run under the door sill. I covered it all by extending the fuel fill cover moulding, to cover the aluminum fuel vent tube that goes down there on the way out toward the flap hinge area. Kevin 103 hours and having lots of fun! ----- Original Message ----- From: Fred Klein To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Friday, February 12, 2010 7:11 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Location for temperature sender/s On Feb 12, 2010, at 6:06 AM, Kevin Klinefelter wrote: I mounted my OAT probe inside the right wing root,aft of the spar. Kevin, Would that be "inside" the cavity in the wing, or within the space enclosed by the wing root fairing? Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 13, 2010
From: <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Location for temperature sender/s
Hi Ron Do you have an intercooler installed on your 914? No I dont as I rarely use the Turbo boost except at short or high fields I probably wont bother, (Extra weight when Im already nose heavy) I would imagine worst case for potential ice would be fine pitch or at least Having the wind turn the prop with little to no throttle opening? Is that what you find? Actually the CHTs and EGTs drop faster when I close the throttle than the Inlet temp, The body of the turbo would take longer to cool down so still keeps the passing air warm, I will make a note to check this when I am next flying I would also imagine the second you begin to increase MP close to ambient pressure having the prop pull the aero plane, the heating from turbo compressing air would raise temp above carb ice range. When I have used the Turbo then Full power for a sustained climb its always the water temps that makes me flatten the climb not the inlet temp, The thing I noticed is the inlet temp increased with height even though the OAT dropped at a constant throttle setting, I assume due to the lower density of the air passing the hot turbo, Normal cruise 4800 at 28/29 MAP for me Ivor ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Mono wheel conversion
Date: Feb 13, 2010
On Feb 10, 2010, at 4:16 PM, Bud Yerly wrote: > It has been my experience, that the only area of the tunnel that is > a nuisance to the tall pilot is the area where the knee hits center > console. A football shaped cutout there is typically all that is > needed. Bud...by any chance, might you have a photo or two of an example of this mod? Thanks, Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Oil Thermostat - X-Air's new version
From: "ThermoStasis" <migbro(at)att.net>
Date: Feb 13, 2010
Hello, everyone: I'll keep this short. This new thermostat is not X-Air's new thermostat, it is manufactured by my company, ThermoStasis. Although I don't have all the facts right now, to the best of my understanding, X-Air purchased several units from one of our USA resellers. It's inexplicable that X-Air has suddenly announced the introduction of "their" new thermostat. I am confident that we will be able to resolve this situation as soon as X-Air responds to my e-mails. Mike Brown President ThermoStasis www.thermostasis.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286326#286326 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Mono wheel conversion
Date: Feb 13, 2010
No Fred I don't see any in my photo archive. I just whacked out about 1.5 inches of the top corner to take the edge off. Filled it with foam, rounded over to transition to the center console top and glassed the upper side and then glassed over the foam underneath through the access hole below and the access hole in the top. Later I had the upholster pad it and the hole in the top of the console for brake and throttle came within about 1 inch of the curve. The worst part was not the cutout, it was making it look like the console on the trigear was just meant to be that way. The cutout went from about two inches aft of the face of the avionics part of the panel and joined with the rear section of the console top. Of course his mod would never allow the mono gear handle to work and will require fiddling if a motor glider airbrake handle were to be installed by the book... Sorry Fred, but what I did doesn't work on a mono or a motor glider. The handles take up knee space for the big guys. A mono is pretty tight for the long guys. Without the hi-top to get their but back farther in the seat the knees do get in the way. Bud ----- Original Message ----- From: Fred Klein<mailto:fklein(at)orcasonline.com> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Saturday, February 13, 2010 6:42 PM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mono wheel conversion On Feb 10, 2010, at 4:16 PM, Bud Yerly wrote: It has been my experience, that the only area of the tunnel that is a nuisance to the tall pilot is the area where the knee hits center console. A football shaped cutout there is typically all that is needed. Bud...by any chance, might you have a photo or two of an example of this mod? Thanks, Fred http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: 200 Hr Annual
Date: Feb 14, 2010
HI Guys, I had downloaded a maintenance check list from someone on this list a few years back. Now after a computer change I can't find the file. I have started putting a new one together then I thought I would request one on this list. If anyone has put together a complete list of engine and airframe checklist I would love to see it. Of course I have a tri- gear with a 912-S but any would help. I'm at 200 plus hours and down for the annual. Best Regards to all, Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush... wishing the water out of the sky would stop for a while! A little sun would be nice too! ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 200 Hr Annual
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Feb 14, 2010
Fellow Europaphiles, Ditto here. Down for Annual, waiting on the new "Maitre Cylindre De Frein << Au Mainche>>" to arrive from France and planning to replace all the screw clamps on the coolant system with spring clamps. while down I have a generic listing for condition inspection scanned and have uploaded to my build gallery. They are in the "Check List Scan" album. Feel free to copy as you wish to modify for your aircraft. If anyone else has a more Europa-centric inspection list, I'd sure like a copy. Check six, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Feb 14, 2010, at 11:09, JEFF ROBERTS wrote: > > HI Guys, > I had downloaded a maintenance check list from someone on this list a few years back. Now after a computer change I can't find the file. I have started putting a new one together then I thought I would request one on this list. If anyone has put together a complete list of engine and airframe checklist I would love to see it. Of course I have a tri-gear with a 912-S but any would help. > I'm at 200 plus hours and down for the annual. > Best Regards to all, > > Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush... wishing the water out of the sky would stop for a while! A little sun would be nice too! > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 200 Hr Annual
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Feb 14, 2010
Jeff, Was just rummaging about the Europa Owners site and there are a number of check lists in the Documents section. Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Feb 14, 2010, at 11:09, JEFF ROBERTS wrote: > > HI Guys, > I had downloaded a maintenance check list from someone on this list a few years back. Now after a computer change I can't find the file. I have started putting a new one together then I thought I would request one on this list. If anyone has put together a complete list of engine and airframe checklist I would love to see it. Of course I have a tri-gear with a 912-S but any would help. > I'm at 200 plus hours and down for the annual. > Best Regards to all, > > Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush... wishing the water out of the sky would stop for a while! A little sun would be nice too! > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gavin & Anne" <gavanne(at)iconz.co.nz>
Subject: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module
Date: Feb 15, 2010
Hi Ron I have the Garmin 295 panel mounted and have the external aerial on top of the instrument panel looking through the windscreen in about the centre of the panel. Works very well and its slimline shape is not noticeable. Cheers Gavin Lee...ZK-EPA _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us Sent: Tuesday, 9 February 2010 7:58 a.m. Subject: Europa-List: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module Hi group. We are working on instrument module at moment. We have a Garmin 295 and was wondering if anyone has mounted the antenna to the underside of the top of the instrument module just about above the gear lever cutout? Bout how far aft of firewall? Any input would be appreciared. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Roger Mills" <Roger.Mills(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: GPS antenna mounted to instrument moduleGPS antenna mounted
to instrument module
Date: Feb 15, 2010
You can probably even mount it out of sight if you want to. My GPS 496 antenna is mounted on an aluminium bracket on top of the radio stack so that the antenna surface is just below the top of the instrument module. It's completely covered and still works perfectly - over 2 years I've never had any reception problems! Roger Mills Europa 141 Time: From: "Gavin & Anne" Subject: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module Hi Ron I have the Garmin 295 panel mounted and have the external aerial on top of the instrument panel looking through the windscreen in about the centre of the panel. Works very well and its slimline shape is not noticeable. Cheers Gavin Lee...ZK-EPA _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us Sent: Tuesday, 9 February 2010 7:58 a.m. Subject: Europa-List: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module Hi group. We are working on instrument module at moment. We have a Garmin 295 and was wondering if anyone has mounted the antenna to the underside of the top of the instrument module just about above the gear lever cutout? Bout how far aft of firewall? Any input would be appreciared. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 15, 2010
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: GPS antenna mounted to instrument moduleGPS antenna
mounted to instrument module My remote antenna is mounted on the inside of the firewall, high in the panel, over the left foot of P-1. The WX antenna is inside the panel, on top of the radio stack. Everything works fine... Jeff - Baby Blue Roger Mills wrote: > You can probably even mount it out of sight if you want to. > > My GPS 496 antenna is mounted on an aluminium bracket on top of the > radio stack so that the antenna surface is just below the top of the > instrument module. Its completely covered and still works perfectly > over 2 years Ive never had any reception problems! > > > > Roger Mills > > Europa 141 > > * * > > *Time: * > > > > > > > *From: * > > > > */"Gavin & Anne" >/* > > > > *Subject: * > > > > */_GPS antenna mounted to instrument module_/* > > * * > > * Hi Ron* > > * * > > * I have the Garmin 295 panel mounted and have the external aerial on top of* > > * the instrument panel looking through the windscreen in about the centre of* > > * the panel. Works very well and its slimline shape is not noticeable.* > > * * > > * * > > * Cheers* > > * * > > * Gavin Lee...ZK-EPA* > > * * > > * * > > * _____ * > > * * > > * From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com <mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com>* > > * [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of* > > * rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us * > > * Sent: Tuesday, 9 February 2010 7:58 a.m.* > > * Subject: Europa-List: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module* > > * * > > * * > > * Hi group. * > > * We are working on instrument module at moment.* > > * We have a Garmin 295 and was wondering if anyone has mounted the antenna to* > > * the underside of the top of the instrument module just about above the gear* > > * lever cutout?* > > * Bout how far aft of firewall?* > > * Any input would be appreciared.* > > * Ron Parigoris * > > > > * > > > * > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2010
From: "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr>
Subject: 912S installation pictures
X-mailer: Foxmail 6, 15, 201, 22 [cn] Does anyone have pictures of 912S installation. Particulary lower front vent connection with cooling air baffle, and lower cooling mod. Thanks 16-02-2010 mau11 De : rampil Date/heure : 08-02-2010 23:46:27 A : europa-list Cc : Sujet : Europa-List: Re: GPS antenna mounted to instrument module Yes Ron, the CRP of the panel is transparent to GPS unless you re-did your panel in carbon fiber. The plexi windshield is also transparent to GPS. Unless you metalized your firewall, it too is essentially transparent. GPS Antennas are not supposed to "see" down to the horizon, in fact most receivers with ignore satellites within 5-10 degrees of the horizon ("the masking angle") by orbital calculation in order to avoid atmospheric distortions of the signal. Since your engine is below the inside ceiling of the panel, the existence of the engine is a non-factor as well. My GPS puck is attached to the ceiling of my panel with industrial grade double sided foam tape. Ivor, your solution requires extra length of coax cable and a connection to be broken whenever you need to pull the panel out of the fuse. Extra coax length and in particular, extra coax connections are extremely hurtful to GPS signal strength. -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=285472#285472 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: 912S installation pictures
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 16, 2010
I am not certain I understand what you are looking for. In my more or less standard factory design installation of my 912s there is only the aluminum dust from the lower cowl large entrance. In my case I have modified this radiator cooling flow by bolting a rectangular aluminum plate to the bottom of the lowest radiator forward, horizontally to the point where the plate (about 50 thou) touches the floor of the duct, i.e., the bottom cowl. The purpose of the flat is to force the airflow through the radiators instead of through the existing gap between the radiators and the cowl. Rotax has a "cooling baffle" which is applied to the top of the engine and is designed to redirect air flow from the frontal air apertures down through the cylinder cooling fins. It does not connect to the bottom duct, unless someone has gone experimental. The baffle is probably not useful for 912s installation which tend not to overheat in Europa's, but rather for the 914 which is otherwise prone to overheating. -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286639#286639 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 16, 2010
From: "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr>
Subject: Re: 912S installation pictures
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Subject: How to ground rempte mounted VDO oil pressure gauge.
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Feb 16, 2010
I plan to remote mount my VDO oil presssure sender. Since the hose is non conductive I need to somehow get a ground to unit. Any ideas welcomed. Thx. Ron Parigoris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286763#286763 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2010
From: Bob Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: How to ground rempte mounted VDO oil pressure gauge.
Ron, I mounted my oil pressure sensor on a piece of aluminum angle that was bolted to the top of the passenger foot well. Ran a 20 ga black wire from one of the mounting bolts up to the firewall ground block. 20 ga is way overkill, but it's what I had on hand and the 0.1 oz of extra weight didn't seem like too great a penalty. Bob Borger On Wednesday, February 17, 2010, at 01:54AM, "rparigoris" wrote: > >I plan to remote mount my VDO oil presssure sender. Since the hose is non conductive I need to somehow get a ground to unit. >Any ideas welcomed. >Thx. >Ron Parigoris > > >Read this topic online here: > >http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286763#286763 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Re: How to ground rempte mounted VDO oil pressure gauge.
Date: Feb 17, 2010
I remote mounted the oil pressure sender on the footwell using SS braid hose. It is mounted with an adel clamp. I put a brass T before the sender for a pressure switch for the Hobbs, which has a ground tab connected to the forest of tabs on the firewall. If I were to do it again, I would consider the new sender (honeywell I think) that Rotax uses. I know the 912 needs it to get the 2000hr tbo blessing. Not remote mounting would eliminate some hose and weight, simpler. Kevin ----- Original Message ----- From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us> Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2010 11:54 PM Subject: Europa-List: How to ground rempte mounted VDO oil pressure gauge. > > > I plan to remote mount my VDO oil presssure sender. Since the hose is non > conductive I need to somehow get a ground to unit. > Any ideas welcomed. > Thx. > Ron Parigoris > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286763#286763 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2010
Subject: Re: How to ground rempte mounted VDO oil pressure gauge.
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Bob Thx. for the reply. How is the sender electrically connected, and how is the sender mechiasnically mounted to your bracket? Thx. Ron Parigoris "> I mounted my oil pressure sensor on a piece of aluminum angle that was > bolted to the top of the passenger foot well. Ran a 20 ga black wire from > one of the mounting bolts up to the firewall ground block. 20 ga is way > overkill, but it's what I had on hand and the 0.1 oz of extra weight > didn't seem like too great a penalty." ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2010
From: Bob Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: How to ground rempte mounted VDO oil pressure gauge.
Hi Ron, Here's where the installation of the remote sensor installation is documented: http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=67636 and here's where I show the installation of the airbox temperature sensor: http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=67636&g2_page=5 Down toward the bottom of the page. Bob On Wednesday, February 17, 2010, at 09:12AM, wrote: > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2010
Subject: Re: How to ground rempte mounted VDO oil pressure gauge.
From: rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us
Hi Bob "Here's where the installation of the remote sensor installation isdocumented: http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=67636" It appears you may have tapped your aluminium bracket and that is how you are getting electrical ground to the mounting bracket mounting screw? Did you perhaps put a thin nut between sender and bracket? Perhaps a spacer that sandwisches the sender and bracket to make the electrical connection? Thx. Ron Parigoris ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 17, 2010
From: Bob Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: How to ground rempte mounted VDO oil pressure gauge.
Hi Ron, No, did not tap the the aluminum bracket. Just added a couple washers between the bracket and the female union to hold it all in place when the union was screwed up tight. No spacer. Just lots of tight mechanical connection to make the ground through the bracket. It's one thing that has worked properly from first startup. That is, after I filled the connecting oil line with oil first. Can't be any entrapped air. Bob On Wednesday, February 17, 2010, at 09:54AM, wrote: > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Suberuopa
Date: Feb 17, 2010
Guys...reached a major milestone w/ the completion of my engine mount and trial fitting of my engine and cowls. Everything seems to be true, level, and properly aligned w/ prop flange offset as per manual. Offset required some tweaking of the footwells; looks like the offset will also require two small blisters on the top cowl...one for the front corner of the stbd fuel rail, and one for an offending edge of the starter motor housing. Cowls are from Alex Bowman's molds who used them w/ his Honda/CAM 125 engine. I'll be needing a 2.5 to 3 inch prop hub extension. Now on to the inlet and exit ducts for the 2 radiators...exhaust system to follow; if anyone has had experience w/ so called "Swiss mufflers", I'd love to hear about it. Engine from RAM Performance w/ MPEFI; dual inlet ports (one per cylinder) produces 140 hp @ 5500 rpm; Autoflite PSRU means prop rotation will be counter-clockwise. Fred ...jus eatin the elephant...one bite at a time... ________________________________________________________________________________
From: glenn crowder <gcrowder2(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: Suberuopa
Date: Feb 17, 2010
Oh yeah baby - this thing is going to blow some serious holes in the sky! Just easy on that throttle - 2/3 should be plenty for any normal TO. Then leaving the throttle at 2/3 should do you an easy 160 mph cruise with that 1.9 ratio and Catto or L ipps prop! Ram makes a fine engine. Been 5 yrs now for my 125 hp Ram unit with no iss ues. Nice work Fred - can't wait to see the cooling system you come up with! Glenn > From: fklein(at)orcasonline.com > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Europa-List: Suberuopa > Date: Wed=2C 17 Feb 2010 18:24:26 -0800 > > Guys...reached a major milestone w/ the completion of my engine mount > and trial fitting of my engine and cowls. Everything seems to be > true=2C level=2C and properly aligned w/ prop flange offset as per manual . > Offset required some tweaking of the footwells=3B looks like the offset > will also require two small blisters on the top cowl...one for the > front corner of the stbd fuel rail=2C and one for an offending edge of > the starter motor housing. Cowls are from Alex Bowman's molds who used > them w/ his Honda/CAM 125 engine. I'll be needing a 2.5 to 3 inch prop > hub extension. > > Now on to the inlet and exit ducts for the 2 radiators...exhaust > system to follow=3B if anyone has had experience w/ so called "Swiss > mufflers"=2C I'd love to hear about it. > > Engine from RAM Performance w/ MPEFI=3B dual inlet ports (one per > cylinder) produces 140 hp @ 5500 rpm=3B Autoflite PSRU means prop > rotation will be counter-clockwise. > > Fred > ...jus eatin the elephant...one bite at a time... > _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: What does Ducati warning light tell you?
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Feb 17, 2010
Hi group I am planning panel at moment for where to position warning and indicator lights (LEDs). I can find in many Rotax manuals specifications for Ducati regulator warning light and how to hook up. After over an hour of searching piles of documentation I still can't find what the indicator is supposed to do and indicate. I imagine it will probably glow when voltage falls below some threshold indicating there is no charging going on, but I am not sure. Is that all it does, or does it perhaps flash to indicate over voltage? Somehow indicate something else? Answer appreciated, but answer and pointing me where Ican find that information specifics gets a double dose of appreciation. Ron Parigoris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286905#286905 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Subject: What does Ducati warning light tell you?
Date: Feb 18, 2010
Hi Ron, I do not know of any documentation on how this light works but based on my experience in the field this is what I can tell you: The only thing it does is indicating whether the integrated permanent magnet alternator is supplying power or not. 1. Engine not running, battery master on, alternator master on: le light is on. 2. Engine not running, battery master on, alternator master off (which means alternator disconnected from the bus): the light is off. 3. Engine running, battery master on, alternator master on: the light is off: this is the normal condition. 4. Now if you turn the alternator master switch off, the light does not turn on. This is because the alternator is still supplying power. 5. From the normal condition 3. above: if you experience an overvoltage (due to regulator failure) the light does not turn on. 6. From the normal condition 3. above: if you experience an undervoltage the light does not turn on. As a conclusion, it would be nice to have a separate warning device for under/overvoltage conditions. Hope this helps Remi Guerner F-PGKL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Re: Suberuopa
Date: Feb 18, 2010
Hey Fred, What do you hear from Alex Bowman and his Honda powered monowheel? I have wondered how that is going... Kevin ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Re: Suberuopa
Date: Feb 18, 2010
Wow Fred, That looks awesome. 140 HP! I sure hope you can balance this bird. Maybe you you should put those radiators in the tail!! Kevin > Engine from RAM Performance w/ MPEFI; dual inlet ports (one per > cylinder) produces 140 hp @ 5500 rpm; Autoflite PSRU means prop > rotation will be counter-clockwise. > > Fred > ...jus eatin the elephant...one bite at a time... > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 18, 2010
From: Bob Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Suberuopa
Fred, Very impressive rig. 140 ponies, should make'r git up and go. Lotsa mass up front there though. How 'bout the radiator mounted in an underside duct aft of the wheel well ala P-51. Help move the CG aft a bit. Might even get a few pounds of thrust out of it (like the P-51) if you design the diverge/converge sections right.. Too bad you can't put the radiators in the wing roots like the Spitfire. They'd fit right in with the Spitfire wing root fairings! What are your plans for a prop? An engine like that just begs for a C/S prop to take max advantage of the available HP & torque. Is there one available for a backward turning prop? Keep up the good work, Bob Borger On Wednesday, February 17, 2010, at 08:24PM, "Fred Klein" wrote: >Guys...reached a major milestone w/ the completion of my engine mount >and trial fitting of my engine and cowls. Everything seems to be >true, level, and properly aligned w/ prop flange offset as per manual. >Offset required some tweaking of the footwells; looks like the offset >will also require two small blisters on the top cowl...one for the >front corner of the stbd fuel rail, and one for an offending edge of >the starter motor housing. Cowls are from Alex Bowman's molds who used >them w/ his Honda/CAM 125 engine. I'll be needing a 2.5 to 3 inch prop >hub extension. > >Now on to the inlet and exit ducts for the 2 radiators...exhaust >system to follow; if anyone has had experience w/ so called "Swiss >mufflers", I'd love to hear about it. > >Engine from RAM Performance w/ MPEFI; dual inlet ports (one per >cylinder) produces 140 hp @ 5500 rpm; Autoflite PSRU means prop >rotation will be counter-clockwise. > >Fred >...jus eatin the elephant...one bite at a time... > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Suberuopa
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Feb 18, 2010
Hi Fred Looks like a nice going! Flying an Europa closer to aft CG is desirable. As Andy pointed out in a fax some time ago moving aft limit forward an inch over 1370 lb gross is probably a good idea. Here's what I did in an attempt to get aft weight but have that weight at least be doing something useful: I am shooting for closer to aft with my 914, intercooler, Airmaster, SD20S on accessory pad XS Mono, with short and long wings. I chose to mount battery aft which I calculated using Eric Jones #4CCA and no question it nets out to less weight compared to front mounting and putting lead on tail. It also allowed me to use a battery switch and all sorts of other electrial stuff installed in headrest/s: http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=30502 http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=30683 http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=30710 Added a rollbar where shoulder harness attaches thus headrests not called upon for structural integrity: http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=27386 Took about 15% load off stabilator to mass balance weight by adding lead to front of stabilators, it nets to 3 lbs of lead, but I get to remove .8 lbs from mass balance weight, thus all up weight will be increased by 2.2 lbs, but it is a fairly aft 2.2 lbs Also in rudder area I added some weight by adding an extra hinge, gave the two lower hinge area a bias 2 BID layup, added a set of outriggers to tailwheel spring (help torsional loading, hopeful not break fuse before things bend), added turnbuckles for tailwheel drive, added a Graham ripoff tailwheel stop, and fabricated some trapezoid spacers to better distribute load of thimbles to tailwheel horn: http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=27732 If it ends up I am a bit tailheavy, no problem. Did you ever see the Vans higher number (think LSA) with Rotax? It has pitot coming out of center of spinner (prop shaft is hollow on 91Xs. I will bet it could be used for a rapid firepaint ball machine gun using Soldier of Fortune style rapid fire cheap and inexpensive BB guns that if you install a stainless barrel they are devastating on 150PSI (came with a freon can that did not provide much pressure for too long and thin wall aluminium barrel that blew apart at 65PSI). Anyway when chasing other Europas it would be more fun if you filled paintballs instead with paint, bird droppings! Have fun Ron Parigoris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286939#286939 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Suberuopa
Date: Feb 18, 2010
On Feb 18, 2010, at 5:41 AM, Kevin Klinefelter wrote: > That looks awesome. 140 HP! Kevin...in truth, the 140 was the claimed figure for RAM's 115 hp engine w/ the dual porting; dyno reading for my engine showed 144 hp @ 5500, with 153 ft lbs torque @ 4000 rpm, but those tests were without the PSRU attached...doing so undoubtedly incurs some losses. > I sure hope you can balance this bird. I think the balancing act will turn out fine...ya gotta be an optimist...I'll keep the "list" appraised of course. I've worked to tuck the engine a bit further aft than the 9XX...my port valve cover is nestled into the scalloped area of the footwell...that helps...some. The "wet" engine weight is claimed to be 176 lbs...but that figure cannot include both exhaust and cooling systems since they are not provided. I've yet to hang the engine on a scale. > Maybe you you should put those radiators in the tail!! I'll take your explanation marks to mean you aren't being entirely serious...but in fact I had considered such a thing...for now, I'm focused on keeping them upfront. Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Fred Klein <fklein(at)orcasonline.com>
Subject: Re: Suberuopa
Date: Feb 18, 2010
On Feb 18, 2010, at 6:36 AM, Bob Borger wrote: > Lotsa mass up front there though. Bob, The pix I posted suffers from some wide angle distortion...it's not near as massive as it appears. > How 'bout the radiator mounted in an underside duct aft of the wheel > well ala P-51. Help move the CG aft a bit. Might even get a few > pounds of thrust out of it (like the P-51) if you design the diverge/ > converge sections right.. Y'know...goin down this road I've chosen is a slippery slope...believe it or not, my mantra is to "manage the degree of novelty", as unlikely as it may appear. > What are your plans for a prop? An engine like that just begs for a > C/S prop to take max advantage of the available HP & torque. Is > there one available for a backward turning prop? I know Alex Bowman's Honda/CAM 125 is fitted w/ an Airmaster which turns counter clockwise, so availability is not an issue for a C/S prop...weight and balance may be (not so for Alex). The torque "curve" for my engine is pretty flat...see graph below. Thanks for your encouraging words. Fred ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2010
From: danny shepherd <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk>
Subject: wheel removal
Hi All, I have to remove the wheels on my tri gear to grease them for the annual. It only seems like yesterday she had her first flight :-( . The nose wheel is obvious & easy, but what have other tri gear drivers done to remove the mains? ie jacking, lifting the wing, using the engine lift. I have sorted a few methods, but would appreciate the wealth of knowledge from the forum . Cheers Danny G-ceri ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Emailing: IMG_0871
Date: Feb 19, 2010
Hi! Danny, After a number of slight mishaps it is necessary to be able to Jack as close as possible to where the gear legs go up into the fuselage. I now have two pieces of quality wood 7.5"x2.5" each 0.75" thick screwed together. On one side I have a neat hole 1.25" diameter spot faced 0.25" deep cut for it's outside diameter to be 0.5" from the edge and in the middle of the timber fore and aft. Then on the other side I've scalloped out an area (cross hatched on the photo)to allow the assembly to fit very close into the inboard of the gear leg. This ensures two things:- a) the wood transfers the jack loads into the gear leg socket b) allows a 1 tonne caravan jack head to fit into the side which is spot faced without slipping off. Note there may be a weight and balance factor with different models and it is only possible to do one wheel at a time, with nose wheel and remaining main gear wheel well chocked. The wood is light to carry as permanent kit since it should be possible to find someone with a suitable jack wherever you are. Made symmetrically will work for port and starboard wheels. It could be slightly improved by fashioning out the unpainted flat face (or upper surface) to a hollow to better fit the gear leg socket form. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of danny shepherd Sent: 19 February 2010 13:23 Subject: Europa-List: wheel removal Hi All, I have to remove the wheels on my tri gear to grease them for the annual. It only seems like yesterday she had her first flight :-( . The nose wheel is obvious & easy, but what have other tri gear drivers done to remove the mains? ie jacking, lifting the wing, using the engine lift. I have sorted a few methods, but would appreciate the wealth of knowledge from the forum . Cheers Danny G-ceri ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: wheel removal
Date: Feb 19, 2010
Photo E-mail Play slideshow<http://photos.msn.com/Viewing/Album.aspx?PST=8nK2AN1B!1LEiKSd ooxx9v4CFFiF2tnPWP2mfc7Vl*vdGbNcQ0NkYi144wncyT0lExXEcs8uImtasoRQsuFkHw%24 %24> | Download images <http://photos.msn.com/viewing/Photos.aspx?pi_Type=SlideshowTask&Task= Download&stppData=&pi_ImagesOnly=1&Folder=nBuRgwTGIGjZPMtNhxCyPhYLU BR*bYP2OXi3JKkJddg%24&User=23IQaj7Z2BRqNO1wUECSpX*P0Ju9hSGI&pi_NoLogin= 1> Danny, It is a 12 step process. Like any airplane addiction. I use a piece of steel that is 7/8 inch diameter (just fits in the hollow axel of the main) that is about 16 inches long. A piece of 1/2 ID steel water pipe would work just as well. Steps: 1 Remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. 2 Insert the pipe/tube/bar. 3 Using a scissors jack or 1.5 ton floor jack, raise the wheel an inch or so. 4 Loosen the nut and pull the wheel and bearings out onto the pipe. 5 Put a suitable wood block (I use a couple of short 2x6s screwed together) under the exposed axel. 6 Lower the wheel assembly. 7 Remove the jack and wheel. 8 Service the wheel/brakes as needed. 9 Insert jack tube and wheel assembly and jack just high enough to remove the wood block. 10 Clean and lube the axel. 11 Insert wheel assembly. 12 Replace nut and washer and tighten nut and brake disk and safety IAW the manual. <http://photos.msn.com/Viewing/Album.aspx?PST=8nK2AN1B!1LEiKSdooxx9v4CF FiF2tnPWP2mfc7Vl*vdGbNcQ0NkYi144wncyT0lExXEcs8uImtasoRQsuFkHw%24%24> Hope this helps. Bud Yerly Custom Flight Creations US Europa Dealer ----- Original Message ----- From: danny shepherd<mailto:danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk> To: matronics Sent: Friday, February 19, 2010 8:23 AM Subject: Europa-List: wheel removal > Hi All, I have to remove the wheels on my tri gear to grease them for the annual. It only seems like yesterday she had her first flight :-( . The nose wheel is obvious & easy, but what have other tri gear drivers done to remove the mains? ie jacking, lifting the wing, using the engine lift. I have sorted a few methods, but would appreciate the wealth of knowledge from the forum . Cheers Danny G-ceri http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> This MSN Photo E-mail slideshow will be available for 30 days. To share high quality pictures with your friends and family using MSN Photo E-mail, join MSN<http://g.msn.com/0PHenus1/29>. ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 19, 2010
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: wheel removal
Danny, Trikes are easy. I use a floor jack with a short 4x4 on the pad and a towel on top, to protect the paint. I place it just inside the strut, where it enters the fuse and jack it up enough to clear the tire. Never had a problem and never damaged the A/C. Jeff - Baby Blue danny shepherd wrote: > > > Hi All, > I have to remove the wheels on my tri gear to grease them for > the annual. It only seems like yesterday she had her first flight :-( . > The nose wheel is obvious & easy, but what have other tri gear drivers > done to remove the mains? ie jacking, lifting the wing, using the engine > lift. I have sorted a few methods, but would appreciate the wealth of > knowledge from the forum . > > Cheers Danny G-ceri > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 20, 2010
From: danny shepherd <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk>
Subject: wheel removal
Thanks, Bob,Jeff, & bud, for your replies, very useful. Cheers Danny G-ceri ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Subject: wheel removal
Date: Feb 20, 2010
<<<<<<<<<< remove the wheels on my tri gear to grease them for the annual. >>>>>>> Danny, I suppose you want to grease the ball bearings, right? My question is: why is it recommanded by most aircraft manufacturers to grease wheel ball bearings every year, which for a typical 100 hours/100 take-offs/100 landings represents only about 200 rolling kilometers (125 miles) while I can drive my car 1000 times more than that distance without ever having to service the bearings ? Remi Guerner F-PGKL ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: wheel removal
Date: Feb 20, 2010
It makes us feel better! Da! Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush On Feb 20, 2010, at 12:41 PM, Remi Guerner wrote: > <<<<<<<<<< remove the wheels on my tri gear to grease them for the > annual. >>>>>>> > > Danny, > > I suppose you want to grease the ball bearings, right? > > My question is: why is it recommanded by most aircraft > manufacturers to grease wheel ball bearings every year, which for a > typical 100 hours/100 take-offs/100 landings represents only about > 200 rolling kilometers (125 miles) while I can drive my car 1000 > times more than that distance without ever having to service the > bearings ? > > Remi Guerner > F-PGKL > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2010
From: "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr>
Subject: Re: 912S installation pictures
X-mailer: Foxmail 6, 15, 201, 22 [cn] Thanks Ira, I am interested to see the upper part of the engine and connection to the cooling air baffle if you have pictures?? Thankd 21-02-2010 mau11 De : rampil Date/heure : 16-02-2010 15:24:37 A : europa-list Cc : Sujet : Europa-List: Re: 912S installation pictures I am not certain I understand what you are looking for. In my more or less standard factory design installation of my 912s there is only the aluminum dust from the lower cowl large entrance. In my case I have modified this radiator cooling flow by bolting a rectangular aluminum plate to the bottom of the lowest radiator forward, horizontally to the point where the plate (about 50 thou) touches the floor of the duct, i.e., the bottom cowl. The purpose of the flat is to force the airflow through the radiators instead of through the existing gap between the radiators and the cowl. Rotax has a "cooling baffle" which is applied to the top of the engine and is designed to redirect air flow from the frontal air apertures down through the cylinder cooling fins. It does not connect to the bottom duct, unless someone has gone experimental. The baffle is probably not useful for 912s installation which tend not to overheat in Europa's, but rather for the 914 which is otherwise prone to overheating. -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=286639#286639 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 21, 2010
From: danny shepherd <danny(at)mcwalterscafe.co.uk>
Subject: Re: wheel removal
Remi, Yes, I agree with you, a bit of "common sense" would be nice especially in my case. My first annual is due on the 22/03/10, due to the fact that I can't fly in the summer from June to October be course I have a seasonal business I have only managed to do 26hrs. Obviously the bearings don't need greasing, but my inspector insists on going by "the book" :-( . Cheers Danny G-ceri Ps remember this is aviation they have to make it hard for us !!! Remi Guerner wrote: > <<<<<<<<<< remove the wheels on my tri gear to grease them for the > annual. >>>>>>> > > Danny, > > I suppose you want to grease the ball bearings, right? > > My question is: why is it recommanded by most aircraft manufacturers > to grease wheel ball bearings every year, which for a typical 100 > hours/100 take-offs/100 landings represents only about 200 rolling > kilometers (125 miles) while I can drive my car 1000 times more than > that distance without ever having to service the bearings ? > > Remi Guerner > F-PGKL > * > > > * ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 21, 2010
Hi All, I found this recent document on the US NTSB website. It seems Liberty has had a few (6) A/C lose doors in flight, just like the early Europas (at least I have not heard of a door flying off in flight in several years). These episodes,the NTSB says were all apparently due to improper shoot bolt deployment into the rear socket and failure to check by crew. Since the Europa latch system is quite similar, we may have a lesson to learn here at someone else's expense! Does anyone have any comment? -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287527#287527 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/libertysbonreardoorlatchpin_392.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 21, 2010
Hi All, I found this recent document on the US NTSB website. It seems Liberty has had a few (6) A/C lose doors in flight, just like the early Europas (at least I have not heard of a door flying off in flight in several years). These episodes,the NTSB says were all apparently due to improper shoot bolt deployment into the rear socket and failure to check by crew. Since the Europa latch system is quite similar, we may have a lesson to learn here at someone else's expense! Does anyone have any comment? -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287530#287530 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/libertysbonreardoorlatchpin_392.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Europa List" <n914va(at)bvunet.net>
Subject: Re: Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts
Date: Feb 21, 2010
I learned to fly in a Piper Tomahawk which used a similar system to secure the doors. It was pounded into my head to check both doors very carefully before taking of. On my long solo cross country I left Harrisburg International and as I turned to leave the pattern, I noticed more noise than usual. Sure enough the rear shoot bolt on my side was not engaged. I slowed to 10 knots above stall and trimed for level flight as instructed and was able to correctly shut the door. I was prepared to request permission and land back at Harrisburg had I not been successful because of the dire warnings from my instructor about not bringing the complete airplane home. Learning a lesson without dire consequences is most preferable. Learning from others mistakes is even better for you. Vaughn Teegarden A191 back in the building stage ----- Original Message ----- From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 15:16 Subject: Europa-List: Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts > > Hi All, > > I found this recent document on the US NTSB website. > > It seems Liberty has had a few (6) A/C lose doors in flight, just like > the early Europas (at least I have not heard of a door flying off > in flight in several years). > > These episodes,the NTSB says were all apparently due to improper > shoot bolt deployment into the rear socket and failure to check > by crew. > > Since the Europa latch system is quite similar, we may have a lesson > to learn here at someone else's expense! > > Does anyone have any comment? > > -------- > Ira N224XS > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287530#287530 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/libertysbonreardoorlatchpin_392.pdf > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Troy Maynor" <wingnut54(at)charter.net>
Subject: Max RPM
Date: Feb 21, 2010
Hi All, Yesterday I took the plane out of the garage and rigged it. Started the engine, let it warm up, and did the pneumatic carb balancing. They were within 1/2 in.Hg of each other at 3k rpm when I proclaimed it good and shut it down. Is this close enough? It ran fairly smooth from 3k up to 5k. The gages were not so closely matched at around 2k rpm. Just wondering if this is normal. When all the hoses were put back in place and vacuum gages removed, plane tied down securely I did a 2 minute run at max rpm, simulating a climb to safe landing altitude. All went well at first. However, I only got 5,200 rpm max. The max rpm was reached without the lever being all the way forward. The last inch or so of lever travel produced no change. And, no the cables were not being pushed too far. When the lever stops in the cockpit, the carb lever just touches the stop. I have a 912S with the ground adjustable Warp Drive prop set at 17 degrees as per manual. The analog tach is made by Mitchell and is made for Rotax. Will the rpm go as high as 5800 when the plane is cut loose or do I need to flatten the pitch to 16 degrees and try it again? Thanks again crew. Troy ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: How to ground rempte mounted VDO oil pressure gauge.
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Feb 21, 2010
Hi Ron, I took some pics of the remote oil pressure sender yesterday while I was doing the firewall aft part of the annual. Perhaps they will help: BTW, that's not a third black wire, it's a shadow of the signal wire. The three washers provide a nice tight clamping of the sensor and still allow the NPT threads of coupling to seal properly. I hope this helps. Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Feb 17, 2010, at 9:12, rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: > Hi Bob > > Thx. for the reply. How is the sender electrically connected, and how is the sender mechiasnically mounted to your bracket? > Thx. > Ron Parigoris > > "> I mounted my oil pressure sensor on a piece of aluminum angle that was > > bolted to the top of the passenger foot well. Ran a 20 ga black wire from > > one of the mounting bolts up to the firewall ground block. 20 ga is way > > overkill, but it's what I had on hand and the 0.1 oz of extra weight > > didn't seem like too great a penalty." > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Max RPM
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Date: Feb 21, 2010
Troy, According to the Europa 912 Installation manual, Chapter 10. Propeller and Spinner, page 10-2 March 2009, last paragraph at the bottom of the page (emphasis is added): For the Rotax 912 engine, with the Warp Drive 62=94 diameter propeller with tapered blades, it is suggested that you set the propeller to 17=B0 pitch angle initially, measured at the tip. For the Rotax 912S engine, with the Warp Drive 64=94 diameter propeller with non-tapered blades, set the pitch initially to 19o. Whichever fixed pitch or ground adjustable propeller is fitted, when the aircraft is stationary and the engine is at wide open throttle (WOT) you should see a minimum of 5200rpm.The blade angle referred to is the angle between the propeller=92s rotational plane and the flat rear surface of the blade at the propeller tip. Ensure that all blades are within 1/4=B0 of each other. So, I'd say you were spot on and ready to go. You shouldn't see 5800 rpm till you are approaching max speed. Check six, Bob Borger Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL Aircraft Flying! 3705 Lynchburg Dr. Corinth, TX 76208 Home: 940-497-2123 Cel: 817-992-1117 On Feb 21, 2010, at 14:24, Troy Maynor wrote: > Hi All, > > Yesterday I took the plane out of the garage and rigged it. Started the engine, let it warm up, and did the pneumatic carb balancing. They were within 1/2 in.Hg of each other at 3k rpm when I proclaimed it good and shut it down. Is this close enough? It ran fairly smooth from 3k up to 5k. The gages were not so closely matched at around 2k rpm. Just wondering if this is normal. > > When all the hoses were put back in place and vacuum gages removed, plane tied down securely I did a 2 minute run at max rpm, simulating a climb to safe landing altitude. All went well at first. However, I only got 5,200 rpm max. The max rpm was reached without the lever being all the way forward. The last inch or so of lever travel produced no change. And, no the cables were not being pushed too far. When the lever stops in the cockpit, the carb lever just touches the stop. I have a 912S with the ground adjustable Warp Drive prop set at 17 degrees as per manual. The analog tach is made by Mitchell and is made for Rotax. Will the rpm go as high as 5800 when the plane is cut loose or do I need to flatten the pitch to 16 degrees and try it again? > Thanks again crew. > Troy > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Pete Lawless" <pete(at)lawless.info>
Subject: Max RPM
Date: Feb 21, 2010
Evening Troy If you have not already done so I should check the accuracy of the rev counter with an optical gauge. Regards Pete -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Troy Maynor Sent: 21 February 2010 20:25 Subject: {Spam?} Europa-List: Max RPM Hi All, Yesterday I took the plane out of the garage and rigged it. Started the engine, let it warm up, and did the pneumatic carb balancing. They were within 1/2 in.Hg of each other at 3k rpm when I proclaimed it good and shut it down. Is this close enough? It ran fairly smooth from 3k up to 5k. The gages were not so closely matched at around 2k rpm. Just wondering if this is normal. When all the hoses were put back in place and vacuum gages removed, plane tied down securely I did a 2 minute run at max rpm, simulating a climb to safe landing altitude. All went well at first. However, I only got 5,200 rpm max. The max rpm was reached without the lever being all the way forward. The last inch or so of lever travel produced no change. And, no the cables were not being pushed too far. When the lever stops in the cockpit, the carb lever just touches the stop. I have a 912S with the ground adjustable Warp Drive prop set at 17 degrees as per manual. The analog tach is made by Mitchell and is made for Rotax. Will the rpm go as high as 5800 when the plane is cut loose or do I need to flatten the pitch to 16 degrees and try it again? Thanks again crew. Troy -- This message has been scanned for viruses and dangerous content by <http://www.mailscanner.info/> MailScanner, and is believed to be clean. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Max RPM
Date: Feb 21, 2010
Troy, As for your prop/carbs/throttle comments: Your OK at 5200 RPM static with your prop setting. I wouldn't screw with it. 5200 is right on with the Rotax recommendations also. That bit of extra throttle still available most likely means you are "propped out". That is, the prop has absorbed all the torque the engine can produce. Static RPM does vary with air density and 5200 RPM static will allow full power up to about 90 KIAS before the prop unloads to the engine max of 5800 RPM. To expand on the build manual, normally, with the throttle idle in the cockpit each carb should be hard at its stop (both cables tight). At full, each should just hit the stop at the same time. If not, work on your cables. You are smart in keeping track of the throttle. I have seen some setups able to move a 1/2 inch or so from the throttle stop on the carb until the throttle in the cockpit hits its stop, which is bending the cables which will cause trouble in the long run. Like you, I adjust full throttle so as the cockpit throttle lever only barely allows the cable to bow slightly as the carbs hit their full forward stop. As for the carbs, if it runs great at full power / static at 5200, great. If it is stumbling or rough sounding at full power, you need to investigate. Changing plugs does make a difference (especially if you have a turbo that throws a 1/2 cup of oil on start). I have found most 912S/914 have a rough spot between 2500 and 3500 as it is touchy to get a cable dual carb setup spot on. At full power it should be smooth sounding. 1/2 inch of MP is not bad, but if it is consistent as you build rpm, you will hear a stumble and may need to adjust one of your cables. My technique when doing a pneumatic carb check, is to note that my carb pressures are dead even from full rpm, down to 4000. I accept a stumble from 2500-3500. I want it smooth at 4000 for the ignition check. If the idle is bad and the carbs were torn apart and the factory idle changed, I will adjust the idle setting on the carbs IAW the Rotax line maintenance manual until it evens out at idle. I only did this once (three hours of trial and error and two calls to Kerry at Lockwood) as normally if the factory setting isn't changed during a carb float bowl and rubber gasket cleanup, no further adjustment is necessary except at the cable. Once the idle is solid, go up through the RPM ranges again. The Rotax recommended procedure is available as a DVD/CD video from your Rotax dealer (I think you may have to pay a pretty penny for it though) or if you took a Rotax repairman class, it is sometimes a handout. If you are a registered owner you can download the manuals...Ira told me that Rotax is now charging for this service also (surprise). If you take the time, you can get it to run smooth throughout the range. My old POS 914 is running super smooth now. At least until the stator went out (defective stator). Ah, the joys of aircraft ownership. Fly Safe, Bud Yerly Custom Flight Creations. ----- Original Message ----- From: Troy Maynor<mailto:wingnut54(at)charter.net> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Sunday, February 21, 2010 3:24 PM Subject: Europa-List: Max RPM Hi All, Yesterday I took the plane out of the garage and rigged it. Started the engine, let it warm up, and did the pneumatic carb balancing. They were within 1/2 in.Hg of each other at 3k rpm when I proclaimed it good and shut it down. Is this close enough? It ran fairly smooth from 3k up to 5k. The gages were not so closely matched at around 2k rpm. Just wondering if this is normal. When all the hoses were put back in place and vacuum gages removed, plane tied down securely I did a 2 minute run at max rpm, simulating a climb to safe landing altitude. All went well at first. However, I only got 5,200 rpm max. The max rpm was reached without the lever being all the way forward. The last inch or so of lever travel produced no change. And, no the cables were not being pushed too far. When the lever stops in the cockpit, the carb lever just touches the stop. I have a 912S with the ground adjustable Warp Drive prop set at 17 degrees as per manual. The analog tach is made by Mitchell and is made for Rotax. Will the rpm go as high as 5800 when the plane is cut loose or do I need to flatten the pitch to 16 degrees and try it again? Thanks again crew. Troy http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Remi Guerner" <air.guerner(at)orange.fr>
Subject: Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts
Date: Feb 22, 2010
Hi Ira, The problem often comes from the pilot opening the door to cool the cockpit or demist the windscreen at the last minute (possibly after having performed the pre-takeoff check) and failing to re-lock it properly. My suggestion: 1. Check doors locked (both pins engaged) during your pre-takeoff check (I assume everybody does this!) 2; Never open a door after having performed your pre-takeoff check, unless absolutely necessary (in that case double check door properly locked) A few decades ago I experienced a side window popping open during takeoff in a Cessna 150. The noise and the wind were frightening! The key here is to fly the airplane first and deal with the door or window second. Best regards Remi Guerner F-PGKL <<<>>>>>> ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2010
From: John Wigney <johnwigney(at)windstream.net>
Subject: Europa door shoot bolts
Hi Vaughn, Am happy to hear that you are back on track with the project. How is progress? You were fortunate with the Tomahawk door. Re Europa doors, my experience is that mine opened up once a long time ago (rear bolt not engaged) just as I was lifting off at take off. I was able to gently set it back down without losing the door. Lucky me. I am now a bit anal about checking the bolts. I believe that if you fly with one bolt out, there may be no way you can stop the door opening or even think about relocking it. Just fly the plane. At the 2008 Sun N Fun, there was a prize winning Lancair which departed from the show. The photo at take off (below) shows his front hinge canopy was open about 2" at the back edge. He crashed fatally about 5 miles from the airport. Even at big shows you can always declare an emergency. This guy could have put it back down. Moral = "Fly the Plane!" Cheers, John ORIGINAL MESSAGE/ From: "Europa List" <n914va(at)bvunet.net> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy Shoot Bolts I learned to fly in a Piper Tomahawk which used a similar system to secure the doors. It was pounded into my head to check both doors very carefully before taking of. On my long solo cross country I left Harrisburg International and as I turned to leave the pattern, I noticed more noise than usual. Sure enough the rear shoot bolt on my side was not engaged. I slowed to 10 knots above stall and trimed for level flight as instructed and was able to correctly shut the door. I was prepared to request permission and land back at Harrisburg had I not been successful because of the dire warnings from my instructor about not bringing the complete airplane home. Learning a lesson without dire consequences is most preferable. Learning from others mistakes is even better for you. Vaughn Teegarden A191 back in the building stage / ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2010
From: Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net>
Subject: aircraft data on club website
I didn't get the update of aircraft data on the website automated before I handed all the Membership Secretary work over to Brian Davies. Since he doesn't have the tools to do the job easily, the "hours flown" and "under construction" pages have been getting very out-of-date. Brian has twisted my arm to do a manual update and I hope those pages now reflect the much-appreciated input that everyone has been giving Brian. This was also by way of a prod to remind me that the automatic updating should really be implented some time this century, and I will try to get it done Real Soon Now (c). Please let me or Brian know if you have better data than that now shown on those pages. in friendship Rowland -- | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://home.clara.net/rowil/ | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europa door shoot bolts
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Date: Feb 22, 2010
Hi Vaughn, I flew my bird to that show and was standing there watching that Lancair take off. When I turned to watch the next one leave he went down. Myself and some friends were sick when we saw the smoke from the crash. Even more so when they told us it was an open canopy. Before I hit the throttle both my hands push out on the rear, then the front of both doors making sure those shoot bolts are in. It is too bad but we all get caught up in trying to make a perfect landing or takeoff when on lookers are around. (Air shows etc.) Thats when check list are needed even more. Best To All!! Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush... still down for annual but looking forward to the soon to be nice weather! On Feb 22, 2010, at 10:06 AM, John Wigney wrote: > > > > Hi Vaughn, > > Am happy to hear that you are back on track with the project. How is > progress? > > You were fortunate with the Tomahawk door. Re Europa doors, my > experience is that mine opened up once a long time ago (rear bolt > not engaged) just as I was lifting off at take off. I was able to > gently set it back down without losing the door. Lucky me. I am now > a bit anal about checking the bolts. I believe that if you fly with > one bolt out, there may be no way you can stop the door opening or > even think about relocking it. Just fly the plane. > > At the 2008 Sun N Fun, there was a prize winning Lancair which > departed from the show. The photo at take off (below) shows his > front hinge canopy was open about 2" at the back edge. He crashed > fatally about 5 miles from the airport. Even at big shows you can > always declare an emergency. This guy could have put it back down. > Moral = "Fly the Plane!" > > Cheers, John > > ORIGINAL MESSAGE/ > From: "Europa List" <n914va(at)bvunet.net> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Liberty XL Service Bulletin for Canopy > Shoot Bolts > I learned to fly in a Piper Tomahawk which used a similar system to > secure the doors. It was pounded into my head to check both doors > very carefully before taking of. On my long solo cross country I > left Harrisburg International and as I turned to leave the pattern, > I noticed more noise than usual. Sure enough the rear shoot bolt on > my side was not engaged. I slowed to 10 knots above stall and trimed > for level flight as instructed and was able to correctly shut the > door. I was prepared to request permission and land back at > Harrisburg had I not been successful because of the dire warnings > from my instructor about not bringing the complete airplane home. > Learning a lesson without dire consequences is most preferable. > Learning from others mistakes is even better for you. > Vaughn Teegarden > A191 back in the building stage > / > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Challis" <kevinmarie(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Europa parts
Date: Feb 22, 2010
Hi I ordered a pair of throttle cables for my Europa Tri gear from Europa (UK) nearly 1 month ago!!!! I am still waiting for them is anyone else having supply problems. Kevin G-ODJG ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europa door shoot bolts
From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com>
Date: Feb 22, 2010
It's true I think that anyone who has flown small GA certified AC will have had an experience with an open door. As Shakespeare said, tis much ado about nothing, as long as the pilot remembers what to do (fly the plane) and what not to do (fight to close said door). Its one thing to have a Cessna door or window pop - nothing happens to the aircraft, pilots undergarments excepted. When a door open on a Europa or a Liberty, there is an excellent chance that the door will cleanly depart the airframe as has happened several times. There is a theoretical, but so far unseen possibility that the departing door will hit the empenage and damage an airfoil or control. That is not a nothing event! My request for comments was actually a probe to start a discussion on whether the Europa community should look into doing the same. The port door on my airframe has long been deformed by heat while under the tension of the gas spring and has thus deformed so it takes some special effort to engage the shoot in the rear. This deformity was exacerbated by the door blowing off the hinges on the ground at Norfolk VA after a perfect ILS in a 40 kt crosswind coming home from SnF 2006. As soon as I opened the door at the gas pump, it pulled right out of my hand. Actually, when closed, but not latched, the rear corner of the door is proud of the fuse by two inches or so, therefore I need a handle on the inside to pull it in. The Liberty mod probably will not do a thing for me, but it might help avoid someone else's accident. I am planning a trip to SnF this year (even though I promised myself I would not) and I will look at the new Liberty shoot bolts. I have it from reliable sources, that the close by establishment for the annual engineering meeting is now remodeled and open for business. 8) Fly Safe! -------- Ira N224XS Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287685#287685 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 22, 2010
From: "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr>
Subject: Re: Europa parts
X-mailer: Foxmail 6, 15, 201, 22 [cn] You have another best solution : Use a stainless steel piano wire diameter 1.5 mm, you add a graphite grease into the sleeve and it is cheaper and better than cables. I use that 10 years ago and it is perfect no cables problems. 22-02-2010 mau11 De : Kevin Challis Date/heure : 22-02-2010 19:19:40 A : europa-list(at)matronics.com Cc : Sujet : Europa-List: Europa parts Hi I ordered a pair of throttle cables for my Europa Tri gear from Europa (UK) nearly 1 month ago!!!! I am still waiting for them is anyone else having supply problems. Kevin G-ODJG ________________________________________________________________________________
From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net>
Subject: Re: Europa parts
Date: Feb 22, 2010
I've been thinking of replacing my cables with the piano wire you speak of. Do you have any pictures or can you tell me how you connected to the throttle handle and to the carb lever? Thanks, Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush On Feb 22, 2010, at 4:49 PM, mau11 wrote: > You have another best solution : > Use a stainless steel piano wire diameter 1.5 mm, you add a graphite > grease into the sleeve and it is cheaper and better than cables. > I use that 10 years ago and it is perfect no cables problems. > > > 22-02-2010 > mau11 > De =EF=BC=9A Kevin Challis > Date/heure =EF=BC=9A 22-02-2010 19:19:40 > A =EF=BC=9A europa-list(at)matronics.com > Cc =EF=BC=9A > Sujet =EF=BC=9A Europa-List: Europa parts > Hi > > I ordered a pair of throttle cables for my Europa Tri gear from > Europa (UK) nearly 1 month ago!!!! > > I am still waiting for them is anyone else having supply problems. > > Kevin > G-ODJG > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Europa parts
Date: Feb 22, 2010
Jeff, I replaced my throttle cable with teflon coated SS solid wire last year when the stranded stuff kinked in the throttle box. You can see what I did in Year #8 Q3 2009 of my build web site (url in signature block). The wire was purchased from McMaster-Carr. There is a picture of the stock labels on the page. The rest of the stuff is from ACS. It seems to be working well for me so far. Needless to say, you are on your own and your mileage may vary. Good luck. Now, if I can only get the Rotax part of the annual completed and the new brake master installed. Check six, Bob Borger http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL Europa XS, Short Wing, Intercooled Rotax 914 rlborger(at)mac.com Cel: 817-992-1117 On Feb 22, 2010, at 5:51 PM, JEFF ROBERTS wrote: > > I've been thinking of replacing my cables with the piano wire you speak of. Do you have any pictures or can you tell me how you connected to the throttle handle and to the carb lever? > Thanks, > > Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush > > > > > On Feb 22, 2010, at 4:49 PM, mau11 wrote: > >> You have another best solution : >> Use a stainless steel piano wire diameter 1.5 mm, you add a graphite grease into the sleeve and it is cheaper and better than cables. >> I use that 10 years ago and it is perfect no cables problems. >> >> >> 22-02-2010 >> mau11 >> De =EF=BC=9A Kevin Challis >> Date/heure =EF=BC=9A 22-02-2010 19:19:40 >> A =EF=BC=9A europa-list(at)matronics.com >> Cc =EF=BC=9A >> Sujet =EF=BC=9A Europa-List: Europa parts >> Hi >> >> I ordered a pair of throttle cables for my Europa Tri gear from Europa (UK) nearly 1 month ago!!!! >> >> I am still waiting for them is anyone else having supply problems. >> >> Kevin >> G-ODJG >> >> >> >> >> >> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List >> blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://forums.matronics.com >> style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.matronics.com/contribution >> >> > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steven Pitt" <steven.pitt2(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Europa door shoot bolts
Date: Feb 23, 2010
Ira, I will be at Sun'n'Fun again with the Europa team, Jeff and Mary Behrnes and a couple of Brit Europa owners. Bud tells me that Europa have stands 90 and 91 so engineering meetings will be on the agenda. Look forward to seeing you and any other Europa owners/wannabees in just over a month. Regards Steve Pitt G-SMDH ----- Original Message ----- From: "rampil" <ira.rampil(at)gmail.com> Sent: Monday, February 22, 2010 10:08 PM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa door shoot bolts > > It's true I think that anyone who has flown small GA certified AC will > have had an experience with an open door. As Shakespeare said, > tis much ado about nothing, as long as the pilot remembers what > to do (fly the plane) and what not to do (fight to close said door). > > Its one thing to have a Cessna door or window pop - nothing > happens to the aircraft, pilots undergarments excepted. > > When a door open on a Europa or a Liberty, there is an excellent > chance that the door will cleanly depart the airframe as has happened > several times. There is a theoretical, but so far unseen possibility > that the departing door will hit the empenage and damage an > airfoil or control. That is not a nothing event! > > My request for comments was actually a probe to start a discussion > on whether the Europa community should look into doing the same. > > The port door on my airframe has long been deformed by heat while > under the tension of the gas spring and has thus deformed so it takes > some special effort to engage the shoot in the rear. This deformity > was exacerbated by the door blowing off the hinges on the ground at > Norfolk VA after a perfect ILS in a 40 kt crosswind coming home > from SnF 2006. As soon as I opened the door at the gas pump, > it pulled right out of my hand. Actually, when > closed, but not latched, the rear corner of the door is proud of the > fuse by two inches or so, therefore I need a handle on the inside to > pull it in. > > The Liberty mod probably will not do a thing for me, but > it might help avoid someone else's accident. > > I am planning a trip to SnF this year (even though I promised myself > I would not) and I will look at the new Liberty shoot bolts. > > I have it from reliable sources, that the close by establishment for the > annual engineering meeting is now remodeled and open for business. > 8) > > Fly Safe! > > -------- > Ira N224XS > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287685#287685 > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 07:34:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Challis" <kevinmarie(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: throttle cables
Date: Feb 23, 2010
My question was Europa's poor customer service in supplying parts and if anyone else was suffering, or was this a one off not how to get around the problem. Thank you for the suggestions anyway Kevin G-ODJG ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Europa parts
From: "bmoorhouse" <barrymoorhouse(at)btinternet.com>
Date: Feb 23, 2010
[quote="kevinmarie(at)blueyonder."]Hi I ordered a pair of throttle cables for my Europa Tri gear from Europa (UK) nearly 1 month ago!!!! I am still waiting for them is anyone else having supply problems. Kevin G-ODJG > [b] Yes - I ordered quite a few bits before Christmas - most arrived on time (but they sent the wrong springs) except for 8 brake pads & rivets (I ordered two complete sets - 4 for me and 4 for a friend with a Europa) and the die set. After many excuses the brake pads arrived about 2 weeks ago - instead of 8 they sent 6 - no die set. Eventually the extra 2 arrived plus the die set a week later. Total of 5 telephone calls and two emails - they were very apologetic and put it down to a reorganization of the spares dept and problems with suppliers. They debited my card for everything before Christmas - I am not a happy bunny. -------- _______________ Barry Moorhouse G-JHYS Trigear XS Rotax 914 UL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287776#287776 ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Ampreg
From: "Bill & Sue" <Billandsue(at)billbell.co.uk>
Date: Feb 23, 2010
You may already be aware that Ampreg 20 is no longer produced and the replacement is Ampreg21. (I was not !) I spoke to Martin Armstrong at Gurit (Ne SP Systems) who was very helpful and informative, it appears that Ampreg 21 is almost indistinguishable in performance and rather more user-friendly in health and safety handling terms than Ampreg 20. Attached is a Health and Safety datasheet for Ampreg he sent me and a note on crystalisation. I have also spoken to Europa and they confirmed that Ampreg 21 is now the standard item. Incidentally Martin Armstrong was happy for me to pass on his contact details if anyone wants advice on Ampreg. Martin Amstrong Composite technologist Gurit (UK) St.Cross Business Park Newport Isle of Wight PO30 5WU England tele +44 (0)1983 828103 (direct) e-mail martin.armstrong(at)gurit.com website http://www.gurit.com Bill Bell Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287786#287786 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/general_hands_156.pdf http://forums.matronics.com//files/crystallization_sp_481.pdf ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raimo Toivio" <raimo.toivio(at)rwm.fi>
Subject: Re: Europa door shoot bolts
Date: Feb 23, 2010
> > When a door open on a Europa or a Liberty, there is an excellent > chance that the door will cleanly depart the airframe as has happened > several times. There is a theoretical, but so far unseen possibility > that the departing door will hit the empenage and damage an > airfoil or control. That is not a nothing event! To prevent this happen I have 4 x microswitches and green/yellow leds to warn unengaged shootbolts. Those leds are just in sight and it is almost impossibe not to see those yellow ones. During T.O. I check if the ASI is operative and the leds are just beside it. Secondly, some of you may remember the pip-pins which secure the door levers to the door lever guards to prevent human errors (= unintentional inflight door opening). Raimo OH-XRT ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2010
From: John Wigney <johnwigney(at)windstream.net>
Subject: Europa throttle cables
Hi Jeff, I had a minor problem with distortion/buckling of the original stranded throttle cables and changed to wire 2 years ago. I forget now why I was not happy with the original cable sleeve material but I replaced the outer Bowden sleeve with ACS item 05-15500 and used 0.062" piano wire. To connect the wires to the throttle handle cross bolt, I used AN111-3 cable bushings. The wire was formed round the bushings and secured with safety wire and epoxy. At the carb levers, I used the standard components. It has worked fine. As you can see in the photo, the wire is just slightly bowed with the throttle wide open Cheers, John N262WF ORIGINAL MESSAGE From: JEFF ROBERTS <Jeff(at)rmmm.net> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Europa parts I've been thinking of replacing my cables with the piano wire you speak of. Do you have any pictures or can you tell me how you connected to the throttle handle and to the carb lever? Thanks, Jeff R. N128LJ Gold Rush ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 23, 2010
From: <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Europa parts
On the other hand I ordered a set of matco Master cylinders and part of a speed kit at Christmas and both were delivered the first week of January, No complaints here, Ivor > > I ordered a pair of throttle cables for my Europa Tri gear from Europa (UK) nearly 1 month ago!!!! > > I am still waiting for them is anyone else having supply problems. > > Kevin > G-ODJG > > > [b] > > Yes - I ordered quite a few bits before Christmas - most arrived on time (but they sent the wrong springs) except for 8 brake pads & rivets (I ordered two complete sets - 4 for me and 4 for a friend with a Europa) and the die set. After many excuses the brake pads arrived about 2 weeks ago - instead of 8 they sent 6 - no die set. Eventually the extra 2 arrived plus the die set a week later. > > Total of 5 telephone calls and two emails - they were very apologetic and put it down to a reorganization of the spares dept and problems with suppliers. > > They debited my card for everything before Christmas - I am not a happy bunny. > > -------- > _______________ > Barry Moorhouse > G-JHYS Trigear XS > Rotax 914 UL > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287776#287776 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Greece
Date: Feb 23, 2010
Hoping to travel to Greece this year, I am trying to get some sense about whether they require special permission for permit aircraft. I have had no joy at all in multiple attempts to contact the Greek CAA, Greek AOPA or various Greek flying clubs. Does anyone know of a contact in their CAA or have a working knowledge of Greek + a Greek keyboard , to be able to send on a query in the vernacular? Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Greece
From: Lisbet og Gert Dalgaard <lgds(at)post6.tele.dk>
Date: Feb 24, 2010
Hi David You could contact Claus Burman, clausbuhrmann(at)gmail.com - Claus took his Europa to Greece in the summer '09. Regards Gert OY-GDS Den 23/02/2010 kl. 21.19 skrev David Joyce: > Hoping to travel to Greece this year, I am trying to get some sense about whether they require special permission for permit aircraft. I have had no joy at all in multiple attempts to contact the Greek CAA, Greek AOPA or various Greek flying clubs. Does anyone know of a contact in their CAA or have a working knowledge of Greek + a Greek keyboard , to be able to send on a query in the vernacular? Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Question for Europa reed switch fuel sender
From: "rparigoris" <rparigor(at)suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Feb 23, 2010
Hi group When equipped with a factory reed switch style fuel sender installed on the port side of the tank (main), if you were to run on starboard tank (reserve) heading for exhaustion, at what indication on the fuel gauge would the needle stop going down because sender is still floating on the fuel trapped below the tunnel hump on the port side. Thx. Ron Parigoris Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287937#287937 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Steade" <steade(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Ampreg
Date: Feb 24, 2010
I have used some Ampreg 21 for the filling and surfacing jobs on my Tri Gear. I am not very impressed. Already after 7 months shelf life I had the crystalisation problem and had to heat the resin as advised by Gurit (UK). Also the resin despite post curing goes not seem to harden as well as Ampreg 20 and this affects its ability to sand easily. I did mix the resin accurately and this problem was consistent. over several mixes. What its like for structural use I don't know. I would be interested in anyone else's experience with this product. I must say that for the filling I'm tempted to use West Systems 105 which I understand is OK for this purpose. Regards David Steade ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 25, 2010
From: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr>
Subject: ECU for NSI propeller
Bonjour =E0 tous,=0AI have been very happy with my CAP NSI propeller during 1100h-used with a simple-hand operated changing pitch system. Unfortun atelly , the Electronic Control Unit has just failed:=0AThe way to the fine position woks fine ,-as well as-red light and- beeper at-the-cou rse end--.=0AThe- way to coarse position is in-flaw-. I tested mo tor hub--from the brush hoder separatly-from ECU : mecanism works wel l=0AThen tested the ECU-out put voltage- ( brush holder not connected) -and verified-12v on one way and -12v-on the other . During that test -I heared closing noise of the 3-electromecanical relays.=0ASo separatl y two parts of the global-system work well-=0AWhen every thing is recon nected ,-the only way working is to fine position.=0AI suppose -the ele ctronic card is defective. Having no electrical drawing of that card I cann ot-invastigate more away-=0A=0AIs there-some body-from the Europa c ommunity-having had -such a problem or more simply ideas-to help me? =0A=0AThank you=0A=0AJean-Philippe Neel=0AEuropa N=B0 273 F-PSLH=0AGrenoble =0AFrance--=0A=0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bill Henderson" <europabill(at)bellsouth.net>
Subject: Can't contact David Joyce via email.
Date: Feb 25, 2010
David Joyce, If you're out there, would you send me a price on the exhaust and your current email address? Tried a couple of different return email addresses and can't seem to contact you. Thanks, Bill A010 Monowheel Classic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Can't contact David Joyce via email.
Date: Feb 25, 2010
Bill, I strongly suspect you are not looking for me and probably not for the other Europa owning David Joyce( stranfaer(at)btopenworld.com ) as he is also on this side of the pond, Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Henderson" <europabill(at)bellsouth.net> Sent: Thursday, February 25, 2010 2:28 PM Subject: Europa-List: Can't contact David Joyce via email. David Joyce, If you're out there, would you send me a price on the exhaust and your current email address? Tried a couple of different return email addresses and can't seem to contact you. Thanks, Bill A010 Monowheel Classic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "David Joyce" <davidjoyce(at)doctors.org.uk>
Subject: Re: Greece
Date: Feb 25, 2010
Gert, Thanks for that. I have already contacted them and they went without special permission and had no trouble, but they had not had any confirmation from the Greek authorities that special permission is no longer needed. The last solid info I have is the reply that the PFA got from the Greek CAA in 1999 saying that special permission was required. We all know of a number of instances where planes have got away with flying somewhere where permission is officially needed, but I am concerned that if we took a party there and some 'incident' occurred then the authorities would throw the book at us, in the same way they treated some plane spotters a few years back.. So I am still looking for help in contacting someone in authority there. Regards, David ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lisbet og Gert Dalgaard" <lgds(at)post6.tele.dk> Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 2010 5:33 AM Subject: Re: Europa-List: Greece > > > Hi David > You could contact Claus Burman, clausbuhrmann(at)gmail.com - Claus took his > Europa to Greece in the summer '09. > Regards Gert > OY-GDS > > > Den 23/02/2010 kl. 21.19 skrev David Joyce: > >> Hoping to travel to Greece this year, I am trying to get some sense about >> whether they require special permission for permit aircraft. I have had >> no joy at all in multiple attempts to contact the Greek CAA, Greek AOPA >> or various Greek flying clubs. Does anyone know of a contact in their CAA >> or have a working knowledge of Greek + a Greek keyboard , to be able to >> send on a query in the vernacular? Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Simon Longstaff <simonlongstaff(at)blueyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Re: ECU for NSI propeller
Date: Feb 26, 2010
It may be that the blades are "sticking" when moving in the coarse direction. More current is taken and the ECM "recognises" this a pitch stop so giving the red light and sound warning. I've had this a few times and is resolved by dismantling the hub, cleaning and regreasing. If you need any CAP 140 bits, Maxwell Propulsion took over NSI's stock: http://www.maxwellpropulsion.com/, look under inventory reduction sale. If you need a copy of the CAP 140 manual let me know and I'll send you a photocopy. Cheers Simon Longstaff ________________________________________________________________________________
From: glenn crowder <gcrowder2(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: ECU for NSI propeller
Date: Feb 26, 2010
Hey Jean-Philippe - I have a spare NSI CAP140 ecu controller I have'nt used for years. It was working fine when I removed it. If you can't resolve the issue I co uld send it to you for just shipping charges from the USA. Glenn Date: Thu=2C 25 Feb 2010 13:48:03 +0000 From: jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr Subject: Europa-List: ECU for NSI propeller Bonjour =E0 tous=2C I have been very happy with my CAP NSI propeller during 1100h used with a s imple hand operated changing pitch system. Unfortunatelly =2C the Electroni c Control Unit has just failed: The way to the fine position woks fine =2C as well as red light and beeper at the course end . The way to coarse position is in flaw . I tested motor hub from the brush hoder separatly from ECU : mecanism works well Then tested the ECU out put voltage ( brush holder not connected) and veri fied 12v on one way and -12v on the other . During that test I heared closi ng noise of the 3 electromecanical relays. So separatly two parts of the global system work well When every thing is reconnected =2C the only way working is to fine positio n. I suppose the electronic card is defective. Having no electrical drawing o f that card I cannot invastigate more away Is there some body from the Europa community having had such a problem or more simply ideas to help me? Thank you Jean-Philippe Neel Europa N=B0 273 F-PSLH Grenoble France _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. 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JU/KcfSiit6m5iiG6J2ryaS25gfPPPeiiq+yU/iHLyT9ad/Fj2oorOG5RTVj54GTjPSlm4WTHHNF Fby+yQ9yrGSWbJJq1EB5x4ooq5fCzM0DxDxxVW6ZgseGI+X1oormibPYyySXOeeT1rUQAR8cUUV1 VPgRzx6kzAB+B2pkjEJgEjr/ACNFFZ/aRojJlZmcbmJ6dTV6NVFrkKAcHtRRWr+Ey6kG5t33j19f apeinHpRRUrYspXBO5eTVSUAyKCM8UUV0UzCe5PGi7x8o6Dt7UUUVoZM/9k ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "craig bastin" <craigb(at)onthenet.com.au>
Subject: Another engine option?
Date: Feb 27, 2010
For those interested in NON aircraft engines for your baby http://www.h1v8.com/H2.html dressed weight is claimed 140lbs, just needs a PSRU ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2010
From: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr>
Subject: ECU for NSI propeller
Bonjour Glenn=0ABe sure that your message is a great hope for me. You are m y rescuer!=0AI am ready to pay that ECU if you want . Please let me know ho w to-pay . The best way for me is to transfert from my bank to yours. =0A If you agree let me know your bank informations and I-will do the payemen t. =0A=0AJean-Philippe Neel=0A5 chemin de la Batie =0A38240 Meylan=0AFrance =0A=0A-=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0ADe : glenn crowder =0A=C0 : europa-list(at)matronics.com=0AEnvoy=E9 le : V en 26 F=E9vrier 2010, 19 h 01 min 42 s=0AObjet-: RE: Europa-List: ECU for NSI propeller=0A=0AHey Jean-Philippe-- I have a spare NSI CAP140 ecu con troller I have'nt used for years.=0AIt was working fine when I removed it. - If you can't resolve the issue I could send it to you for just shipping charges from the USA.=0A-=0A-------------- ------------------------- ----Glenn-=0A-=0A________________________________=0ADate: Thu, opa-List: ECU for NSI propeller=0ATo: europa-list(at)matronics.com=0A=0A=0ABon jour =E0 tous,=0AI have been very happy with my CAP NSI propeller during 11 00h-used with a simple-hand operated changing pitch system. Unfortunate lly , the Electronic Control Unit has just failed:=0AThe way to the fine po sition woks fine ,-as well as-red light and- beeper at-the-course end--.=0AThe- way to coarse position is in-flaw-. I tested motor hub--from the brush hoder separatly-from ECU : mecanism works well =0AThen tested the ECU-out put voltage- ( brush holder not connected) -and verified-12v on one way and -12v-on the other . During that test -I heared closing noise of the 3-electromecanical relays.=0ASo separatl y two parts of the global-system work well-=0AWhen every thing is recon nected ,-the only way working is to fine position.=0AI suppose -the ele ctronic card is defective. Having no electrical drawing of that card I cann ot-invastigate more away-=0A=0AIs there-some body-from the Europa c ommunity-having had -such a problem or more simply ideas-to help me? =0A=0AThank you=0A=0AJean-Philippe Neel=0AEuropa N=B0 273 F-PSLH=0AGrenoble =0AFrance--=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-Li st=0Aronics.com=0Aww.matronics.com/contribution=0A=0A=0A___________________ _____________=0AYour E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge29/direct/01/' target=' _new'>Sign up now. =0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Feb 27, 2010
From: NEEL Jean Philippe <jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr>
Subject: ECU for NSI propeller
=0A-=0ABonjour Simon=0AThank you very much for your reply. I have an old NSI documentation and a wiaring diagram of the ECU. But the best new is tha t I found on ECU for sale in- the USA.=0AThis forum is great!!=0AMerci be aucoup=0AJean-Philippe=0A=0A=0A=0A________________________________=0ADe : S imon Longstaff =0A=C0 : europa-list@matron ics.com=0AEnvoy=E9 le : Ven 26 F=E9vrier 2010, 17 h 29 min 53 s=0AObjet-: Re: Europa-List: ECU for NSI propeller=0A=0A--> Europa-List message posted by: Simon Longstaff =0A=0AIt may be that the blades are "sticking" when moving in the coarse direction. More current is taken and the ECM "recognises" this a pitch stop so giving the red ligh t and sound warning. I've had this a few times and is resolved by dismantli ng the hub, cleaning and regreasing.=0A=0AIf you need any CAP 140 bits, Max well Propulsion took over NSI's stock: http://www.maxwellpropulsion.com/, l ook under inventory reduction sale.=0A=0AIf you need a copy of the CAP 140 manual let me know and I'll send you a photocopy.=0A=0ACheers=0A=0ASimon Lo =====================0A=0A=0A ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Europa XS 914 Turbo...
From: "albertakolbmk3" <cheriebraun(at)xplornet.com>
Date: Feb 27, 2010
Hi, What does a europa XS tri-gear 914 Turbo demand for price? I never really looked into one before as I had my eyes on an rv6 or Mustang 2. The tri-gear is a nice looking unit. How wide is it at the shoulders. How big of a person will fit? Nice size baggage area also. I see on there website that some countrys allow a higher Gross. What countries? Thanks, Tony -------- Tony B. Kolb MKIII C Rotax 582 C Gearbox 3.00:1 WD 66" 3 Blade Prop Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288522#288522 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: Fuel tank capacity graph
Date: Feb 28, 2010
Hey,First column at the bottom. This may be somewhat redundant, but I just stumbled over a graph made for my cockpit papers, showing measured TOTAL CAPACITY vs. fuel DEPTH in millimetres for both level flight and tailwheel squat in my Classic (if old) project. The date of graph is 26MAR2006; of the tank is 13JAN97. If you insist, it may be found on the EuropaOwners Gallery 2, 4th down on last page, under the fascinating label "Ferg Kyle - Mod sketches or photos from the log - and THE DUCATI AFFAIR", First column at the bottom All my own work...... Ferg Kyle A064 Classic ________________________________________________________________________________
From: glenn crowder <gcrowder2(at)hotmail.com>
Subject: ECU for NSI propeller
Date: Feb 28, 2010
Glad to help Jean-Phillipe. I will be mailing out the ECU on Monday. Shou ld I go with faster or slower shipping? Glenn Bonjour Glenn Be sure that your message is a great hope for me. You are my rescuer! I am ready to pay that ECU if you want . Please let me know how to pay . Th e best way for me is to transfert from my bank to yours. If you agree let me know your bank informations and I will do the payement. Jean-Philippe Neel 5 chemin de la Batie 38240 Meylan France De : glenn crowder =C0 : europa-list(at)matronics.com Envoy=E9 le : Ven 26 F=E9vrier 2010=2C 19 h 01 min 42 s Objet : RE: Europa-List: ECU for NSI propeller Hey Jean-Philippe - I have a spare NSI CAP140 ecu controller I have'nt used for years. It was working fine when I removed it. If you can't resolve the issue I co uld send it to you for just shipping charges from the USA. Glenn Date: Thu=2C 25 Feb 2010 13:48:03 +0000 From: jeanphilippeneel(at)yahoo.fr Subject: Europa-List: ECU for NSI propeller Bonjour =E0 tous=2C I have been very happy with my CAP NSI propeller during 1100h used with a s imple hand operated changing pitch system. Unfortunatelly =2C the Electroni c Control Unit has just failed: The way to the fine position woks fine =2C as well as red light and beeper at the course end . The way to coarse position is in flaw . I tested motor hub from the brush hoder separatly from ECU : mecanism works well Then tested the ECU out put voltage ( brush holder not connected) and veri fied 12v on one way and -12v on the other . During that test I heared closi ng noise of the 3 electromecanical relays. So separatly two parts of the global system work well When every thing is reconnected =2C the only way working is to fine positio n. I suppose the electronic card is defective. Having no electrical drawing o f that card I cannot invastigate more away Is there some body from the Europa community having had such a problem or more simply ideas to help me? Thank you Jean-Philippe Neel Europa N=B0 273 F-PSLH Grenoble France >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List ronics.com ww.matronics.com/contribution Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Ge29/direct/01/' target='_new'>Sign up no w. _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free=2C trusted and rich email service. ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Electric Trim Problems
From: "John Price" <nicolaprice(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Date: Mar 01, 2010
Any help on this one would be gratefully received. Classic Monowheel G-SHSH now flying for over 6 years. We have now an intermittent fault on the electric trim. The controller is by a 'coolie hat' on the stick driving a Ray Allen servo. The trim will always work nose up but has an intermittent fault when used to trim nose down. We have replaced the switch and the servo but still the problem remains. Any thoughts ? John Price. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288706#288706 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Electric Trim Problems
Date: Mar 01, 2010
Hi! John. Yes I can tell you all about it and most who fly with me can also! I had this problem initially a number of years ago and the Ray Allen people assured me it must be a wiring failure, the hassle proving all the circuitry needs to be done to be believed. Still the failure was intermittently present. Next I had to remove the servo (fortunately I had built in a facility which locked the servo locating bolt heads enabling the nuts to be removed from the rear...in anticipation of needing it out!) I returned it to Ray Allen Company where they failed to reproduce the symptoms. In my case the failure was identical to yours and I found much to my horror that if I let go of the control stick and trimmed fully nose up (scary because you wouldn't land it like that and the forces on the stabilators and rear controls are phenomenal)it then will be possible to reverse the trim motor. They returned the servo after checking and for good measure included a replacement MK1 relay for 50% of the normal price. I refitted the servo and also replaced the relay. The problem had been cured. Some considerable time ensued before the identical problem returned. I have reported this to the Ray Allen and they said they had now identified that the MK1 Relay actually fails but in one direction only so when the system is reversed it hides the fault. They have now (again at 50% cost) have sent a MK2 relay saying that they have at last identified the original fault. The MK2 is slightly different in shape and size and sitting on my desk awaiting fitting. Pleased to be of service to you with this news...(as usual I am out in front where trouble is concerned !) However I now am most concerned that you aren't preceding me with the MK2 which is failed? If you would advise me that I'd be obliged. My system has a panel trim switch and a control stick top trim switch too. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG Rotax 914. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Price Sent: 01 March 2010 09:00 Subject: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Any help on this one would be gratefully received. Classic Monowheel G-SHSH now flying for over 6 years. We have now an intermittent fault on the electric trim. The controller is by a 'coolie hat' on the stick driving a Ray Allen servo. The trim will always work nose up but has an intermittent fault when used to trim nose down. We have replaced the switch and the servo but still the problem remains. Any thoughts ? John Price. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288706#288706 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Kevin Klinefelter" <kevann(at)gotsky.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Trim Problems
Date: Mar 01, 2010
John, In the wires from the servo in the tail going forward you should have a splice or connector. Have you checked that? Kevin ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Price" <nicolaprice(at)tiscali.co.uk> Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 12:59 AM Subject: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems > > > Any help on this one would be gratefully received. > > Classic Monowheel G-SHSH now flying for over 6 years. > > We have now an intermittent fault on the electric trim. > The controller is by a 'coolie hat' on the stick driving a Ray Allen > servo. > The trim will always work nose up but has an intermittent fault when used > to trim nose down. > We have replaced the switch and the servo but still the problem remains. > > Any thoughts ? > > John Price. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288706#288706 > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Fergus Kyle" <VE3LVO(at)rac.ca>
Subject: FUEL tank graph
Date: Mar 01, 2010
Regarding my yesterday message about the above, "my own work" referred to the tank graph insert, not the squirrelly site. which Ron P. very kindly disentangled and to whom I thank. Happy landings Ferg ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 01, 2010
From: Jan de Jong <jan_de_jong(at)casema.nl>
Subject: Re: Ampreg
Steade wrote: > I have used some Ampreg 21 for the filling and surfacing jobs on my > Tri Gear. I am not very impressed. > > Already after 7 months shelf life I had the crystalisation problem and > had to heat the resin as advised by Gurit (UK). Also the resin despite > post curing goes not seem to harden as well as Ampreg 20 and this > affects its ability to sand easily. > > I did mix the resin accurately and this problem was consistent. over > several mixes. What its like for structural use I don't know. > > I would be interested in anyone else's experience with this product. > > I must say that for the filling I'm tempted to use West Systems 105 > which I understand is OK for this purpose. I can think of relative humidity and storage temperature as variables to which Ampreg 21 may be more sensitive than Ampreg 20. I have no experience with it. After trial and error I now use SP106 for surface work (mixes as 1 to 0.18 by weight). Hardens and sands much better than Ampreg 20. Regards, Jan de Jong ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Bud Yerly" <budyerly(at)msn.com>
Subject: Re: Europa parts
Date: Mar 01, 2010
Kevin, Sorry for your parts delay. Karen, Fiona and I have all checked with the contracted supplier and choke and throttle cables will not be available until Mid March. (Production date of delivery was Mar 15, 2010.) They are the only supplier which can make our urgent need. I have checked my stores here in the states and don't have a spare either. Our only recourse was to cobble up parts to make a one off, from other suppliers which required other parts and a non standard setup. I advised that this was not the course to go and suggested that you be advised of the delay. My apologies if you were not advised of the above problem we are having on this critical FWF item. Bud Yerly Technical Assistance for Europa Aircraft. ----- Original Message ----- From: bmoorhouse<mailto:barrymoorhouse(at)btinternet.com> To: europa-list(at)matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, February 23, 2010 7:29 AM Subject: Europa-List: Re: Europa parts > [quote="kevinmarie(at)blueyonder."]Hi I ordered a pair of throttle cables for my Europa Tri gear from Europa (UK) nearly 1 month ago!!!! I am still waiting for them is anyone else having supply problems. Kevin G-ODJG > [b] Yes - I ordered quite a few bits before Christmas - most arrived on time (but they sent the wrong springs) except for 8 brake pads & rivets (I ordered two complete sets - 4 for me and 4 for a friend with a Europa) and the die set. After many excuses the brake pads arrived about 2 weeks ago - instead of 8 they sent 6 - no die set. Eventually the extra 2 arrived plus the die set a week later. Total of 5 telephone calls and two emails - they were very apologetic and put it down to a reorganization of the spares dept and problems with suppliers. They debited my card for everything before Christmas - I am not a happy bunny. -------- _______________ Barry Moorhouse G-JHYS Trigear XS Rotax 914 UL Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287776#287776 .matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287776#287776> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List avigator?Europa-List> http://www.matronics.com/contribution on> ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Paddy Clarke <paddyclarke(at)lineone.net>
Subject: Very Last Minute DOTH - Tue - Cotswold Airport
Date: Mar 01, 2010
Hi Folks, I'm amazed to see, after all the rubbish weather, that it might be a good day tomorrow ( Tuesday ). I know it's very short notice but how about a DOTH to Cotswold Airport ( Kemble as was ). Voucher in Flyer - 1200 ish, Cheers, Paddy Paddy Clarke Europa G-KIMM ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gavin & Anne" <gavanne(at)iconz.co.nz>
Subject: Electric Trim Problems
Date: Mar 02, 2010
Hi Bob and John This is very coincidental, I am just in the process of fitting a new RS2 rocker switch on the panel because of a sticking trim. As you say it sticks when trimming down and I have to reverse the direction to rectify the situation. I had a spare rocker switch from some time ago when I had a trim runaway and bought a new switch but it never recurred so didn't fit it. I also run the system with a stick top grip through a RayAllen relay deck, probably the mark one which I have had for some time What you are saying is that the Relay is the problem. I'll email RayAllen and see what they say Thanks Gavin Lee....... ZK-EPA #355 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert C Harrison Sent: Monday, 1 March 2010 11:05 p.m. Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Hi! John. Yes I can tell you all about it and most who fly with me can also! I had this problem initially a number of years ago and the Ray Allen people assured me it must be a wiring failure, the hassle proving all the circuitry needs to be done to be believed. Still the failure was intermittently present. Next I had to remove the servo (fortunately I had built in a facility which locked the servo locating bolt heads enabling the nuts to be removed from the rear...in anticipation of needing it out!) I returned it to Ray Allen Company where they failed to reproduce the symptoms. In my case the failure was identical to yours and I found much to my horror that if I let go of the control stick and trimmed fully nose up (scary because you wouldn't land it like that and the forces on the stabilators and rear controls are phenomenal)it then will be possible to reverse the trim motor. They returned the servo after checking and for good measure included a replacement MK1 relay for 50% of the normal price. I refitted the servo and also replaced the relay. The problem had been cured. Some considerable time ensued before the identical problem returned. I have reported this to the Ray Allen and they said they had now identified that the MK1 Relay actually fails but in one direction only so when the system is reversed it hides the fault. They have now (again at 50% cost) have sent a MK2 relay saying that they have at last identified the original fault. The MK2 is slightly different in shape and size and sitting on my desk awaiting fitting. Pleased to be of service to you with this news...(as usual I am out in front where trouble is concerned !) However I now am most concerned that you aren't preceding me with the MK2 which is failed? If you would advise me that I'd be obliged. My system has a panel trim switch and a control stick top trim switch too. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG Rotax 914. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Price Sent: 01 March 2010 09:00 Subject: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Any help on this one would be gratefully received. Classic Monowheel G-SHSH now flying for over 6 years. We have now an intermittent fault on the electric trim. The controller is by a 'coolie hat' on the stick driving a Ray Allen servo. The trim will always work nose up but has an intermittent fault when used to trim nose down. We have replaced the switch and the servo but still the problem remains. Any thoughts ? John Price. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288706#288706 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Very Last Minute DOTH - Tue - Cotswold Airport
Date: Mar 01, 2010
Hi! Paddy Sorry, no can do on two counts a) plane still grounded for TruTrak embodiment b) foot in a bloody pot for another 4-5 weeks ! Have a good trip. Regards Bob H . G-PTAG _____ From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paddy Clarke Sent: 01 March 2010 18:06 Subject: Europa-List: Very Last Minute DOTH - Tue - Cotswold Airport Hi Folks, I'm amazed to see, after all the rubbish weather, that it might be a good day tomorrow ( Tuesday ). I know it's very short notice but how about a DOTH to Cotswold Airport ( Kemble as was ). Voucher in Flyer - 1200 ish, Cheers, Paddy Paddy Clarke Europa G-KIMM ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Electric Trim Problems
Date: Mar 01, 2010
From: "Terry Seaver (terrys)" <terrys(at)cisco.com>
We have been having problems with sticking trim, both directions, but only from the rocker switch in the instrument panel. The trim buttons on our pilot's stick never seem to have that problem. Since both sets of switches are connected to the same circuit at the relay deck, It seems that it would have to be a bad switch, not the relay deck. Only if sticking were from both switch positions would I expect it to be a relay deck problem. Any comments would be appreciated, since I am just about to replace the panel mounted rocker switch. Terry Seaver A135 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gavin & Anne Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 2:01 PM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Hi Bob and John This is very coincidental, I am just in the process of fitting a new RS2 rocker switch on the panel because of a sticking trim. As you say it sticks when trimming down and I have to reverse the direction to rectify the situation. I had a spare rocker switch from some time ago when I had a trim runaway and bought a new switch but it never recurred so didn't fit it. I also run the system with a stick top grip through a RayAllen relay deck, probably the mark one which I have had for some time What you are saying is that the Relay is the problem. I'll email RayAllen and see what they say Thanks Gavin Lee....... ZK-EPA #355 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert C Harrison Sent: Monday, 1 March 2010 11:05 p.m. Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Hi! John. Yes I can tell you all about it and most who fly with me can also! I had this problem initially a number of years ago and the Ray Allen people assured me it must be a wiring failure, the hassle proving all the circuitry needs to be done to be believed. Still the failure was intermittently present. Next I had to remove the servo (fortunately I had built in a facility which locked the servo locating bolt heads enabling the nuts to be removed from the rear...in anticipation of needing it out!) I returned it to Ray Allen Company where they failed to reproduce the symptoms. In my case the failure was identical to yours and I found much to my horror that if I let go of the control stick and trimmed fully nose up (scary because you wouldn't land it like that and the forces on the stabilators and rear controls are phenomenal)it then will be possible to reverse the trim motor. They returned the servo after checking and for good measure included a replacement MK1 relay for 50% of the normal price. I refitted the servo and also replaced the relay. The problem had been cured. Some considerable time ensued before the identical problem returned. I have reported this to the Ray Allen and they said they had now identified that the MK1 Relay actually fails but in one direction only so when the system is reversed it hides the fault. They have now (again at 50% cost) have sent a MK2 relay saying that they have at last identified the original fault. The MK2 is slightly different in shape and size and sitting on my desk awaiting fitting. Pleased to be of service to you with this news...(as usual I am out in front where trouble is concerned !) However I now am most concerned that you aren't preceding me with the MK2 which is failed? If you would advise me that I'd be obliged. My system has a panel trim switch and a control stick top trim switch too. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG Rotax 914. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Price Sent: 01 March 2010 09:00 Subject: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Any help on this one would be gratefully received. Classic Monowheel G-SHSH now flying for over 6 years. We have now an intermittent fault on the electric trim. The controller is by a 'coolie hat' on the stick driving a Ray Allen servo. The trim will always work nose up but has an intermittent fault when used to trim nose down. We have replaced the switch and the servo but still the problem remains. Any thoughts ? John Price. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288706#288706 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: UK and European Europa Flyers.
Date: Mar 01, 2010
Please note in your diaries the Wickenby (EGNW)Wings and Wheels Fly In on 19th and 20th June. Free landings, many exhibits, air displays (Notam for times),overnight camping Hope to see you there. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 01, 2010
From: Mike Baker <galahav(at)YAHOO.COM>
Subject: Re: Europa parts
Try McFarlane Aviation Products Manufacturer of Quality Aircraft Parts at Realistic Prices http://www.mcfarlane-aviation.com/ --- On Mon, 3/1/10, Bud Yerly wrote: > From: Bud Yerly <budyerly(at)msn.com> > Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Europa parts > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Date: Monday, March 1, 2010, 10:22 AM > > > > > > > > > > > > Kevin, > Sorry for your parts delay. Karen, Fiona and I > have all checked with > the contracted supplier andchoke and throttle > cableswillnot be > available until Mid March. (Production date of > delivery was Mar 15, > 2010.) Theyare the only supplierwhich can > make our urgent > need. I have checked mystores here in the > states and don't have a > spare either.Our only recourse was to cobble up parts > to make a one off, > from other suppliers which required other parts and a non > standard setup. > I advised that this was not the course > togoand suggested that > you be advised of the delay. > > My apologies if you were not advised of the above > problem we are having on > this critical FWF item. > > Bud Yerly > Technical Assistance for Europa Aircraft. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: bmoorhouse > > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > > Sent: Tuesday, > February 23, 2010 7:29 > AM > Subject: > Europa-List: Re: Europa > parts > > "bmoorhouse" > > [quote="kevinmarie(at)blueyonder."]Hi > > > I ordered a pair of throttle cables for my Europa Tri > gear from Europa (UK) nearly 1 month ago!!!! > > > > I am still waiting for them is anyone else having supply > problems. > > > Kevin > G-ODJG > > > > [b] > > Yes - I > ordered quite a few bits before Christmas - most arrived > on time (but they > sent the wrong springs) except for 8 brake pads & > rivets (I ordered two > complete sets - 4 for me and 4 for a friend with a > Europa) and the die set. > After many excuses the brake pads arrived about 2 weeks > ago - instead of > 8 they sent 6 - no die set. Eventually the extra 2 > arrived plus the die set a > week later. > > Total of 5 telephone calls and two emails - they were very > apologetic and put it down to a reorganization of the > spares dept and problems > with suppliers. > > They debited my card for everything before Christmas - > I am not a happy bunny. > > -------- > _______________ > Barry > Moorhouse > G-JHYS Trigear XS > Rotax 914 UL > > > > > Read this > topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=287776#287776 > > > > > > > http://www.matronnbsp; > via the Web > title=http://forums.matronics.com/ > > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com > _p; > generous > > bsp; > > title=http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c================ > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gavin & Anne" <gavanne(at)iconz.co.nz>
Subject: Electric Trim Problems
Date: Mar 02, 2010
I do have the same problem from the stick mounted switch as well, as I mentioned I am changing the rocker switch because I had a spare and also as the start of a process of elimination, just had a response from Ray Allen..... Hello, Sorry to hear of your trim system problems. When a servo trims one way and not the other, I would suspect a relay problem. Our REL-2 have much more durable relays inside. It's a little bit larger, but has the same functionality and wire colors. You can download our order form and FAX/email it to us. Aircraft Spruce has our REL-2 available also. Best regards, Scott Menziimer Doesn't say anything about a half price relay but I will probably order one anyway Gavin Lee.....#355 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Seaver (terrys) Sent: Tuesday, 2 March 2010 1:11 p.m. Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems We have been having problems with sticking trim, both directions, but only from the rocker switch in the instrument panel. The trim buttons on our pilot's stick never seem to have that problem. Since both sets of switches are connected to the same circuit at the relay deck, It seems that it would have to be a bad switch, not the relay deck. Only if sticking were from both switch positions would I expect it to be a relay deck problem. Any comments would be appreciated, since I am just about to replace the panel mounted rocker switch. Terry Seaver A135 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gavin & Anne Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 2:01 PM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Hi Bob and John This is very coincidental, I am just in the process of fitting a new RS2 rocker switch on the panel because of a sticking trim. As you say it sticks when trimming down and I have to reverse the direction to rectify the situation. I had a spare rocker switch from some time ago when I had a trim runaway and bought a new switch but it never recurred so didn't fit it. I also run the system with a stick top grip through a RayAllen relay deck, probably the mark one which I have had for some time What you are saying is that the Relay is the problem. I'll email RayAllen and see what they say Thanks Gavin Lee....... ZK-EPA #355 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert C Harrison Sent: Monday, 1 March 2010 11:05 p.m. Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Hi! John. Yes I can tell you all about it and most who fly with me can also! I had this problem initially a number of years ago and the Ray Allen people assured me it must be a wiring failure, the hassle proving all the circuitry needs to be done to be believed. Still the failure was intermittently present. Next I had to remove the servo (fortunately I had built in a facility which locked the servo locating bolt heads enabling the nuts to be removed from the rear...in anticipation of needing it out!) I returned it to Ray Allen Company where they failed to reproduce the symptoms. In my case the failure was identical to yours and I found much to my horror that if I let go of the control stick and trimmed fully nose up (scary because you wouldn't land it like that and the forces on the stabilators and rear controls are phenomenal)it then will be possible to reverse the trim motor. They returned the servo after checking and for good measure included a replacement MK1 relay for 50% of the normal price. I refitted the servo and also replaced the relay. The problem had been cured. Some considerable time ensued before the identical problem returned. I have reported this to the Ray Allen and they said they had now identified that the MK1 Relay actually fails but in one direction only so when the system is reversed it hides the fault. They have now (again at 50% cost) have sent a MK2 relay saying that they have at last identified the original fault. The MK2 is slightly different in shape and size and sitting on my desk awaiting fitting. Pleased to be of service to you with this news...(as usual I am out in front where trouble is concerned !) However I now am most concerned that you aren't preceding me with the MK2 which is failed? If you would advise me that I'd be obliged. My system has a panel trim switch and a control stick top trim switch too. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG Rotax 914. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Price Sent: 01 March 2010 09:00 Subject: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Any help on this one would be gratefully received. Classic Monowheel G-SHSH now flying for over 6 years. We have now an intermittent fault on the electric trim. The controller is by a 'coolie hat' on the stick driving a Ray Allen servo. The trim will always work nose up but has an intermittent fault when used to trim nose down. We have replaced the switch and the servo but still the problem remains. Any thoughts ? John Price. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288706#288706 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 01, 2010
Subject: Re: Electric Trim Problems
From: Paul McAllister <paul.the.aviator(at)gmail.com>
Hi All, I had this problem and I ended up replacing the Ray Allen stuff with one of Matt Drallel's trim controllers. Matt's unit can also be set to slow down the servo speed. Paul ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 02, 2010
Subject: Re: Electric Trim Problems
From: Gerry Holland <gholland@content-stream.co.uk>
I chose the same Unit as Paul, the Matt Dralle Speed Governor for my Europa. It can be found at: http://www.matronics.com/governor/index.htm and at $67 is excellent value. If positioned correctly is easy too get to and adjust during the initial flights of Europa to get a smoother TRIM transition rather than the high speed operation that seems the normal. Regards Gerry Gerry Holland 07808 402404 gholland@content-stream.co.uk Based at White Ox Mead, Near Bath, UK ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Electric Trim Problems
Date: Mar 02, 2010
Hi! Terry. The relay sticks in the up mode and will not reverse until full travel position then reverses and hides the fault Which ever switch you use.. Take Scott Menzemer's advice and get a MK2 relay. Bob Harrison G-PTAG -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Terry Seaver (terrys) Sent: 02 March 2010 00:11 Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems We have been having problems with sticking trim, both directions, but only from the rocker switch in the instrument panel. The trim buttons on our pilot's stick never seem to have that problem. Since both sets of switches are connected to the same circuit at the relay deck, It seems that it would have to be a bad switch, not the relay deck. Only if sticking were from both switch positions would I expect it to be a relay deck problem. Any comments would be appreciated, since I am just about to replace the panel mounted rocker switch. Terry Seaver A135 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gavin & Anne Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 2:01 PM Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Hi Bob and John This is very coincidental, I am just in the process of fitting a new RS2 rocker switch on the panel because of a sticking trim. As you say it sticks when trimming down and I have to reverse the direction to rectify the situation. I had a spare rocker switch from some time ago when I had a trim runaway and bought a new switch but it never recurred so didn't fit it. I also run the system with a stick top grip through a RayAllen relay deck, probably the mark one which I have had for some time What you are saying is that the Relay is the problem. I'll email RayAllen and see what they say Thanks Gavin Lee....... ZK-EPA #355 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robert C Harrison Sent: Monday, 1 March 2010 11:05 p.m. Subject: RE: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Hi! John. Yes I can tell you all about it and most who fly with me can also! I had this problem initially a number of years ago and the Ray Allen people assured me it must be a wiring failure, the hassle proving all the circuitry needs to be done to be believed. Still the failure was intermittently present. Next I had to remove the servo (fortunately I had built in a facility which locked the servo locating bolt heads enabling the nuts to be removed from the rear...in anticipation of needing it out!) I returned it to Ray Allen Company where they failed to reproduce the symptoms. In my case the failure was identical to yours and I found much to my horror that if I let go of the control stick and trimmed fully nose up (scary because you wouldn't land it like that and the forces on the stabilators and rear controls are phenomenal)it then will be possible to reverse the trim motor. They returned the servo after checking and for good measure included a replacement MK1 relay for 50% of the normal price. I refitted the servo and also replaced the relay. The problem had been cured. Some considerable time ensued before the identical problem returned. I have reported this to the Ray Allen and they said they had now identified that the MK1 Relay actually fails but in one direction only so when the system is reversed it hides the fault. They have now (again at 50% cost) have sent a MK2 relay saying that they have at last identified the original fault. The MK2 is slightly different in shape and size and sitting on my desk awaiting fitting. Pleased to be of service to you with this news...(as usual I am out in front where trouble is concerned !) However I now am most concerned that you aren't preceding me with the MK2 which is failed? If you would advise me that I'd be obliged. My system has a panel trim switch and a control stick top trim switch too. Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG Rotax 914. -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Price Sent: 01 March 2010 09:00 Subject: Europa-List: Electric Trim Problems Any help on this one would be gratefully received. Classic Monowheel G-SHSH now flying for over 6 years. We have now an intermittent fault on the electric trim. The controller is by a 'coolie hat' on the stick driving a Ray Allen servo. The trim will always work nose up but has an intermittent fault when used to trim nose down. We have replaced the switch and the servo but still the problem remains. Any thoughts ? John Price. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288706#288706 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Parkin" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Electric Trim Problems
Date: Mar 02, 2010
Hi Guys, I note that these relay decks cost $46.00 and they are even more to buy outside the USA. I have roll and pitch trim servos operating the trim through a home made relay deck. I recently modified the relay deck to facilitate the auto-trim feature of my altitude hold. I have never had any problems at all ( touch wood). The basic pitch trim only requires 2 relays and 2 diodes and a bit of veroboard (all available from Maplins) - total cost about 5.00. Making a relay deck really is a simple task - takes about an hour. Regards, Mike >You can download our order form and FAX/email it to us. Aircraft Spruce has >our REL-2 available also. > >Best regards, > >Scott Menziimer > >Doesn't say anything about a half price relay but I will probably order one >anyway ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 02, 2010
From: <ivor.phillips(at)ntlworld.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Trim Problems
I would second that, Its never been a problem so far :-) Ivor ---- Gerry Holland <gholland@content-stream.co.uk> wrote: > I chose the same Unit as Paul, the Matt Dralle Speed Governor for my Europa. > It can be found at: http://www.matronics.com/governor/index.htm and at $67 > is excellent value. > If positioned correctly is easy too get to and adjust during the initial > flights of Europa to get a smoother TRIM transition rather than the high > speed operation that seems the normal. > Regards > Gerry > > Gerry Holland > 07808 402404 > gholland@content-stream.co.uk > > Based at White Ox Mead, Near Bath, UK > > > > > ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Raymond Wren" <raymondwren(at)fastmail.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Very Last Minute DOTH - Tue - Cotswold Airport
Date: Mar 02, 2010
Paddy, You're a day late - I went there on Monday in the Liberty. Hopefully next time we'll be able to make it on the same day as each other. Regards Ray N518XL -- raymondwren(at)fastmail.co.uk ________________________________________________________________________________
Subject: Re: Electric Trim Problems
From: "John Price" <nicolaprice(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Date: Mar 02, 2010
Thanks Chaps, Having given this some thought I think that we will replace the relay for a new Mk 2 Ray Allen unit. This Saturdays job! We don't think that the wiring is the fault because the DC motor would exhibit the problem when driving in either direction. As we didn't build the aeroplane any suggestions where we might find the thing? I suspect behind the panel close to the isolator switch might be a good starting point. Last help, Is taking the panel off easy, or a sod of a job ? John. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288954#288954 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 02, 2010
Subject: Re: Electric Trim Problems
From: Gerry Holland <gholland@content-stream.co.uk>
John Hi! Been following and commenting on your TRIM problem and now commiserate with you having to battle with an unknown Panel. As a Builder and until recently an operator of a Europa XS can I suggest some ideas. Firstly...can you contact the Builder or are there any documents with the Aircraft. If its a real Relay you might hear it click so create a quiet atmosphere and get your ear to the panel. If you have to go into the Panel make the first expedition based around removing single items such as Instruments or Radio. If the ultimate is required....the bloody thing needing to come out then remove Control sticks and bias towards rear of cabin. Cover the Tunnel to avoid damage and remove any vertical levers or switches in that area too. If you are lucky it will be secured by nuts on the Firewall side. BTW it will be heavy so watch your back, fingers etc. Could be 25lbs. Its not impossible to cut small sub panels with Modellers Jigsaw to gain access and repair or make good afterwards. Best of luck! It will all work out if you take your time, and move Panel out slowly with someone watching down through Front Windshield to feedback what they can see being stretched! Regards Gerry Gerry Holland 07808 402404 gholland@content-stream.co.uk ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Robert C Harrison" <ptag.dev(at)tiscali.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Electric Trim Problems
Date: Mar 02, 2010
Hi! John, There wasn't a recognized way to fix the panel, You will probably have to locate all the connection plugs as you pull the panel forward. Disconnect the battery though ...first operation. I built mine as fixed and put two access panels from the engine side of the firewall, but it's still a pig of a job. I would think it will be located some where close by the Flap relay as a pair.(Be sure to get the right one ! Regards Bob Harrison G-PTAG -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Price Sent: 02 March 2010 19:08 Subject: Europa-List: Re: Electric Trim Problems Thanks Chaps, Having given this some thought I think that we will replace the relay for a new Mk 2 Ray Allen unit. This Saturdays job! We don't think that the wiring is the fault because the DC motor would exhibit the problem when driving in either direction. As we didn't build the aeroplane any suggestions where we might find the thing? I suspect behind the panel close to the isolator switch might be a good starting point. Last help, Is taking the panel off easy, or a sod of a job ? John. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288954#288954 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Parkin" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Re: Electric Trim Problems
Date: Mar 02, 2010
>As we didn't build the aeroplane any suggestions where we might find the thing? I suspect behind the panel close to the isolator switch might be a >good starting point. Last help, Is taking the panel off easy, or a sod of a job ? > >John. John, Take care before ripping into the instrument panel. If the installation has a single rocker switch for the pitch trim, it is quite possible that there is not a relay deck fitted. A relay deck is not required in the basic system. It depends on the rating of the switch contacts, the contacts of the supplied rocker switch were up to the task. If your 'coolie hat' stick top is a Ray Allen one, in the basic configuration, it does not require a relay deck. If you can contact the original builder, tips on panel removal would be very useful. I know of some installations that were not designed to be removable. Regards, Mike. ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Gavin & Anne" <gavanne(at)iconz.co.nz>
Subject: Re: Electric Trim Problems
Date: Mar 03, 2010
Hi John If you have a stick top switch and a rocker switch there will be a relay deck in the system Both switches will be connected into the relay and 2 wires will run from the relay to the servo. The relay is probably fairly close behind your rocker switch Ray Allen has an excellent wiring diagram on their web site for this exact situation. Good Luck Gavin Lee....#355 -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Price Sent: Wednesday, 3 March 2010 8:08 a.m. Subject: Europa-List: Re: Electric Trim Problems Thanks Chaps, Having given this some thought I think that we will replace the relay for a new Mk 2 Ray Allen unit. This Saturdays job! We don't think that the wiring is the fault because the DC motor would exhibit the problem when driving in either direction. As we didn't build the aeroplane any suggestions where we might find the thing? I suspect behind the panel close to the isolator switch might be a good starting point. Last help, Is taking the panel off easy, or a sod of a job ? John. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288954#288954 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 03, 2010
From: Jeff B <topglock(at)cox.net>
Subject: Re: Electric Trim Problems
Though handy, a relay is not necessary in a two switch situation. My bird is rigged with grip top buttons at P-1 and a rocker at P-2. The difference is that I have them tied into a diverter switch. Switch is in one position when P-1 is in control and in the other position when P-2 has the A/C. Switch is just above the rocker switch, so P-2 has no trouble switching the system. A lot cheaper than the relay, and less troublesome... Jeff - Baby Blue On 3/2/2010 9:56 PM, Gavin & Anne wrote: > --> Europa-List message posted by: "Gavin& Anne" > > Hi John > > If you have a stick top switch and a rocker switch there will be a relay > deck in the system > Both switches will be connected into the relay and 2 wires will run from the > relay to the servo. The relay is probably fairly close behind your rocker > switch > Ray Allen has an excellent wiring diagram on their web site for this exact > situation. > > Good Luck > Gavin Lee....#355 > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com > [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Price > Sent: Wednesday, 3 March 2010 8:08 a.m. > To: europa-list(at)matronics.com > Subject: Europa-List: Re: Electric Trim Problems > > --> Europa-List message posted by: "John Price" > > Thanks Chaps, > > Having given this some thought I think that we will replace the relay for a > new Mk 2 Ray Allen unit. This Saturdays job! > We don't think that the wiring is the fault because the DC motor would > exhibit the problem when driving in either direction. > > As we didn't build the aeroplane any suggestions where we might find the > thing? I suspect behind the panel close to the isolator switch might be a > good starting point. Last help, Is taking the panel off easy, or a sod of a > job ? > > John. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=288954#288954 > > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 05, 2010
From: Rowland Carson <rowil(at)clara.net>
Subject: which europa near brecon tuesday?
I've been away for a few days hill-walking with fiancee Dorothy. On Tuesday 2nd Mar at about 14:00 we were between Corn Du & Pen-y-Fan (distinctive chisel-topped mountains south of Brecon) when a Europa monowheel whistled past, nearly level with the peaks, going eastwards. Looked like a Classic, but I couldn't quite get the registration. Anyone recognise this description of themselves? in friendship Rowland -- | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://home.clara.net/rowil/ | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Richard Iddon" <riddon(at)sent.com>
Subject: which europa near brecon tuesday?
Date: Mar 05, 2010
I was over that way but not so far west on Tuesday afternoon. On my way back from Kemble. Mine is a tri though and I was well above the hills at about 3k. Probably someone else you saw. Richard Iddon. G-RIXS -----Original Message----- From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rowland Carson Sent: 05 March 2010 11:11 Subject: Europa-List: which europa near brecon tuesday? I've been away for a few days hill-walking with fiancee Dorothy. On Tuesday 2nd Mar at about 14:00 we were between Corn Du & Pen-y-Fan (distinctive chisel-topped mountains south of Brecon) when a Europa monowheel whistled past, nearly level with the peaks, going eastwards. Looked like a Classic, but I couldn't quite get the registration. Anyone recognise this description of themselves? in friendship Rowland -- | Rowland Carson ... that's Rowland with a 'w' ... | http://home.clara.net/rowil/ | Skype, Twitter: rowland_carson Facebook: Rowland Carson | pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/rowlandcarson ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2010
From: "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr>
Subject: Hydraulic brake hose
X-mailer: Foxmail 6, 15, 201, 22 [cn] Hi all, I see this picture on web site but I don't remember where! I am interested to install this hose and banjo on my brake, does anyone know where it is possible to buy this assembly? Thanks mau11 06-03-2010 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: "Mike Parkin" <mikenjulie.parkin(at)btinternet.com>
Subject: Hydraulic brake hose
Date: Mar 06, 2010
Hi, I think that the photograph is one I took of my monowheel brake installation. The hose actually came from France but is readily available from a good hydraulic parts merchant in the UK, as is the banjo coupling. Regards, Mike From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mau11 Sent: 06 March 2010 16:55 Subject: Europa-List: Hydraulic brake hose Hi all, I see this picture on web site but I don't remember where! I am interested to install this hose and banjo on my brake, does anyone know where it is possible to buy this assembly? Thanks _____ mau11 06-03-2010 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 07:39:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2010
From: "mau11" <mau11(at)free.fr>
Subject: Re: Hydraulic brake hose
X-mailer: Foxmail 6, 15, 201, 22 [cn] Hi Mike thanks for this information I live in France do you remember in what shop you purchase it? Thanks Michel AUVRAY Builder 145 06-03-2010 mau11 De : Mike Parkin Date/heure : 06-03-2010 19:05:11 A : europa-list(at)matronics.com Cc : Sujet : RE: Europa-List: Hydraulic brake hose Hi, I think that the photograph is one I took of my monowheel brake installation. The hose actually came from France but is readily available from a good hydraulic parts merchant in the UK, as is the banjo coupling. Regards, Mike From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mau11 Sent: 06 March 2010 16:55 Subject: Europa-List: Hydraulic brake hose Hi all, I see this picture on web site but I don't remember where! I am interested to install this hose and banjo on my brake, does anyone know where it is possible to buy this assembly? Thanks mau11 06-03-2010 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 07:39:00 ________________________________________________________________________________
From: Robert Borger <rlborger(at)mac.com>
Subject: Re: Hydraulic brake hose
Date: Mar 06, 2010
Mike, You wouldn't happen to have the specs for that fitting would you? I'm working on my brakes and that fitting would be perfect. Bob Borger Sent from my iPhone On Mar 6, 2010, at 11:58, Mike Parkin wrote: > Hi, > > I think that the photograph is one I took of my monowheel brake > installation. The hose actually came from France but is readily > available from a good hydraulic parts merchant in the UK, as is the > banjo coupling. > > > Regards, > > Mike > > > From: owner-europa-list-server(at)matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa- > list-server(at)matronics.com] On Behalf Of mau11 > Sent: 06 March 2010 16:55 > To: europa-list > Subject: Europa-List: Hydraulic brake hose > > > Hi all, > I see this picture on web site but I don't remember where! > I am interested to install this hose and banjo on my brake, does > anyone know where it is possible to buy this assembly? > > Thanks > > > mau11 > 06-03-2010 > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > 07:39:00 > > ________________________________________________________________________________
Date: Mar 06, 2010
From: Gilles Thesee <Gilles.Thesee@ac-grenoble.fr>
Subject: Re: Hydraulic brake hose
Mike Parkin a crit : > *I think M. Bastien of MDO Aircraft is based in Biarritz. I do know > that some of our colleagues on this site have had trouble contacting > him. A French person in France may have better luck.* Mike and all, Although I've never met Mr Bastien, I've had the opportunity to ring him about his master cylinder. I get the impression that communication with potential customers would be better if their initial message was in French, so if some of you gentlemen were kind enough to provide an example message, I'd be happy to translate it into French to help facilitate contact with Mr Bastien.

January 28, 2010 - March 07, 2010

Europa-Archive.digest.vol-ib